Page 26 of 44 FirstFirst ... 1622232425262728293036 ... LastLast
Results 2,501 to 2,600 of 4386
  1. #2501
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Would you use the T9 on areas that have already been affected by rust? Or is there something to apply to those areas? My 2015 frame as some rust forming on the sliding dropouts where there is no paint. Also the bolts that hold the dropouts in place are rusting a bit

  2. #2502
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    12
    On the inside I would. As for the outside, I'm not sure what to do either. I think Kona should've painted these frames instead of whatever it is they did. My plan is to rub the outside of my frame down with WD-40 from time to time and hope it doesn't get too out of control. Anybody else got a better idea?

  3. #2503
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    593
    Buy an aluminum frame?

  4. #2504
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    12
    I have a set of golf irons with a raw finish. Basically, they just rust all the time and it's pretty kewl except for the smell. Oxidizing steel gives off a funny smell.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-adamsmb2-3.jpg
    Last edited by golfsoup; 09-16-2015 at 05:44 PM.

  5. #2505
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Chromoly is supposed to rust much slower than traditional steel... Is the desire to contain the rust more ascetic? How long would it take for the frame to actually be compromised due to rust?

  6. #2506
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    12
    I read that chromolly will rust but it should only be a surface rust. I also read that steel wool will take care of it. I'm sticking with an occasional WD-40 rub down.

    Chromolly is actually resistant to rust and scaling, strong, and light...

    Read about it here...
    https://metalworksfab.wordpress.com/tag/chromolly/

    My first BMX bike was a Mongoose and I recall it having a 1/2 chromolly frame. Although, it was painted.

  7. #2507
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    28

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    How long would it take for the frame to actually be compromised due to rust?
    A long ass time, honestly. But rust sucks here at least. I got hasty with my build and sprayed right before assembly, but if you think about it, the spray will settle exactly where the water will. Yeah, you may get some surface rust up on the top of the tubes from condensation, but that will never cause a structural issue in your lifetime. As far as external rust, just sand the rust off and cover it with some primer and paint as close to a matching color as possible. My aluminum Satori has tons of gashes and scrapes, it just adds character, and the Honzo will look the same soon

    On a side note, has anyone else ran a stealth dropper on the ST yet? If so, how did you route the hose? I feel like mine could be better but yet can't think of how.

  8. #2508
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    12
    Exactly, I actually think a little rust will be kewl as long as it doesn't bleed on my expensive parts. I also have an aluminum frame 29er which is more of a XC bike and it is pretty stiff (I think). Also, lots of scrapes and dings in the paint. Hey, no paint to worry about with this one!

  9. #2509
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by golfsoup View Post
    Plug the hole at the bottom of the seat tube inside the BB with a rag or something, spray a bunch of T9 in the top of the seat tube, plug the top, roll the T9 fluid around by manipulating the frame to get it in the tubes. Make sense? Also do inside headset. Allow T9 to dry exactly 12 hours and five minutes. Lastly, put some grease on your BB threads and at the top of the seat tube to help seal water out.

    This is important because the inside of your steel frame isn't protected and water can get in there. It won't dry nearly as fast on the inside and can do some real damage.

    Attachment 1015933
    This will add in the region of 2lb to the weight of the bike.

  10. #2510
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by superstar1 View Post
    This will add in the region of 2lb to the weight of the bike.
    How much does rust weigh?

  11. #2511
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by golfsoup View Post
    How much does rust weigh?
    Troll so hard

  12. #2512
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    83
    Of course it was a ridiculous post, but so is the assumption that a steel frame is going to rust before your eyes. I'm 55 years old and owned numerous steel frames in my time and none of them has rusted.

    Where do you lot park your bikes? In the Swimming pool?

  13. #2513
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477

    Less rust debate... More honzo-ing

    All the parts finally trickled in and ibwas able to finish the build tonight.

    '16 HONZO medium
    Pike 140 51 offset
    Raceface turbine cinch crankset
    Wtb scrapers/trailblazer wheelset

    One thing I noticed....this BB is loooowwww...a lot lower than i',,,m used to and this is whilst running 170mm cranks.



    Last edited by ledude; 09-20-2015 at 11:59 AM.

  14. #2514
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    283

    I'll just put these here.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700721.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700719.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700722.jpg

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p5pb12700723.jpg

    2016 Kona Honzo ST large
    1x10 Saint Drivetrain
    SLX Cranks / 36t Wolftooth NW
    MRP Guide
    Pike 140mm / 46mm offset
    Nextie 35mm carbon rims laced to Hadley DH hubs
    Thomson fixed post
    XT brakes 203/180 rotors
    Onza Ibex 2.4s front and rear
    Raceface 35mm SIXC bars (775mm) and atlas stem (35mm).
    XT trail pedals
    WTB Volt steel rails
    Santa Cruz Palmdale grips in obvious orange

    29 lbs., 6oz.

  15. #2515
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    776
    Looks awesome. The raw steel is great, and suits the bike. Those tires look burly - any good? Don't know anyone who's run them.

  16. #2516
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    283
    Quote Originally Posted by chunkylover53 View Post
    Looks awesome. The raw steel is great, and suits the bike. Those tires look burly - any good? Don't know anyone who's run them.
    They're very high quality and cost about $60 each, retail $90. In socal we have a lot of loose over hard and these tires are excellent for that. They're similar to Highroller IIs but without the "Highroll"ing resistance. Reviews say they don't excel in the wet.

  17. #2517
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,464
    Nice build once again. Can you compare to the 2012 and 2013 frameset? Get rid of the EPO?

  18. #2518
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    283
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Nice build once again. Can you compare to the 2012 and 2013 frameset? Get rid of the EPO?
    I haven't posted the EPO yet but it will be for sale.

    It's hard to be certain if the new seat stays make it a tiiiiny bit more compliant or if it's the 30mm internal rims and fat tires the wider chainstay yoke allows. They feel very similar in terms of compliance, but I'm on a large now with 25mm~ longer reach and a 35mm vs 50mm stem. Also, longer tubes will be more compliant. Wheelbase is also about an inch longer. And I'm running a plush Pike. Just hard to pinpoint and not a night and day difference. If I still had an old version, I'd upgrade for the color, tire clearance, and new sizing/lines or get a Pike. The 2016 Honzo just looks *****in' and rides great.

    Honestly, the EPO is better in every aspect except tire clearance and looks in my opinion. The geo numbers are identical but the EPO is .25 degrees slacker which bumps the wheelbase out a bit. Oh, and 7.5 lbs. vs 3.25 lbs in frame weight is kind of a big deal.

    I'm going to pick up a Riot with the proceeds from the EPO and my stable will be complete...for now.

  19. #2519
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,422
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Got my custom Honzo all built up! Had to snap some shots before gettin dirty!

    Build:
    2015 frame size small
    Pike 140mm (46mm offset)
    WTB i25 wheels, DT Swiss 350 front hub, Hope Evo2 rear hub
    Maxis Minion DHF 2.5 front / 2.35 rear
    Shimano Zee brakes
    Shimano Zee crankset
    Shimano XT 11 speed RD and 11-42 cassette
    Shimano XTR shifter
    Raceface 32t ring
    Azonic Beretta 40mm stem
    Raceface Respond riser bars
    Deity compound pedals

    This thing needs a dropper, planning on going with the 9point8 Fall Line, deciding whether to go 5" or 6" drop


    Attachment 1008854Attachment 1008849Attachment 1008852Attachment 1008851Attachment 1008853
    So the small Honzo's do not have the seat/top tube brace? Super clean!

  20. #2520
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    So the small Honzo's do not have the seat/top tube brace? Super clean!
    Agreed! It was a pleasant surprise

  21. #2521
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,464
    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I haven't posted the EPO yet but it will be for sale.

    It's hard to be certain if the new seat stays make it a tiiiiny bit more compliant or if it's the 30mm internal rims and fat tires the wider chainstay yoke allows. They feel very similar in terms of compliance, but I'm on a large now with 25mm~ longer reach and a 35mm vs 50mm stem. Also, longer tubes will be more compliant. Wheelbase is also about an inch longer. And I'm running a plush Pike. Just hard to pinpoint and not a night and day difference. If I still had an old version, I'd upgrade for the color, tire clearance, and new sizing/lines or get a Pike. The 2016 Honzo just looks *****in' and rides great.

    Honestly, the EPO is better in every aspect except tire clearance and looks in my opinion. The geo numbers are identical but the EPO is .25 degrees slacker which bumps the wheelbase out a bit. Oh, and 7.5 lbs. vs 3.25 lbs in frame weight is kind of a big deal.

    I'm going to pick up a Riot with the proceeds from the EPO and my stable will be complete...for now.
    So carbon's not all it's cracked out to be?

    I would love to get the 2016 frameset just for the added tire clearance as I can't run a 2.4 Ardent slammed or it rubs badly. But I think it's finally time for a FS build this winter.
    konahonzo

  22. #2522
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,422
    Looking to get some feedback prior to pulling the trigger on a '16. I'm a little worried about the slightly longer reach on the '16. I'm 5'6, long legs and short torso. Even with a 35mm stem, the '16 will be about 18 mm longer in reach then what I'm riding now. (Stumpy with 45mm stem). That said, I did notice the standover and stack height on Kona bikes are lower than others. At the end of the day, I'm worried about the bike feeling too big or difficult to handle. Can anyone chime in here to relieve my concerns?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  23. #2523
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Looking to get some feedback prior to pulling the trigger on a '16. I'm a little worried about the slightly longer reach on the '16. I'm 5'6, long legs and short torso. Even with a 35mm stem, the '16 will be about 18 mm longer in reach then what I'm riding now. (Stumpy with 45mm stem). That said, I did notice the standover and stack height on Kona bikes are lower than others. At the end of the day, I'm worried about the bike feeling too big or difficult to handle. Can anyone chime in here to relieve my concerns?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    If you're concerned, go with a 140mm fork and that will reduce the reach. I am 5'7 and ride a 2015 small frame with a 40mm stem... a longer reach wouldn't be bad at all. The 2015 has solid cockpit room, but a little more wouldn't spread me out too much. The effective top tube is only a quarter inch longer, so the length while in the saddle won't be much longer at all. I think you will be stoked on the size small

  24. #2524
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,422
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    If you're concerned, go with a 140mm fork and that will reduce the reach. I am 5'7 and ride a 2015 small frame with a 40mm stem... a longer reach wouldn't be bad at all. The 2015 has solid cockpit room, but a little more wouldn't spread me out too much. The effective top tube is only a quarter inch longer, so the length while in the saddle won't be much longer at all. I think you will be stoked on the size small
    Can you do me a favor and measure the maximum seatpost insertion on your small frame? My dropper requires ~ 200mm insertion depth to get by saddle height where it needs to be.

    Thanks!!!!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  25. #2525
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Can you do me a favor and measure the maximum seatpost insertion on your small frame? My dropper requires ~ 200mm insertion depth to get by saddle height where it needs to be.

    Thanks!!!!


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    It's about 183mm on my size small - are you accounting for the fact that it's a 15" seat tube vs whatever seat tube length your dropper is coming from? Definitely is a bit of a bummer on the insertion depth, would have loved to run a 150mm dropper but had to go with 125 due to the insertion. The short chainstay are one of the big reasons why this bike is so nimble, so it's a worthwhile sacrifice.

  26. #2526
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,422
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    It's about 183mm on my size small - are you accounting for the fact that it's a 15" seat tube vs whatever seat tube length your dropper is coming from? Definitely is a bit of a bummer on the insertion depth, would have loved to run a 150mm dropper but had to go with 125 due to the insertion. The short chainstay are one of the big reasons why this bike is so nimble, so it's a worthwhile sacrifice.
    You are correct. I'll have to check around for some other posts. Thanks again for checking.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  27. #2527
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    593
    What size tires are you able to fit on the back of the aluminum frame? And is the front hub boosted?

  28. #2528
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    You are correct. I'll have to check around for some other posts. Thanks again for checking.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    I can't recommend the 9point8 fall line enough. I went with the 125/375mm on my honzo, the max insert on it is 190mm so if you are at the bike park or pump track you can slam it all the way down to the frame basically. I've had 2 Levs and have demoed the reverb and the Thompson... Fall line is king

  29. #2529
    mtbr member
    Reputation: NEET's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    90
    Hey need some advice. my LBS quoted me $30 to press the headset for my 2016 Honzo ST. I was wondering if there is any possibility of me screwing up if I press them myself. In other words, can I damage the frame in any way. There is some DIY / Homemade press tool that seems simple to make. Note, I've never done this before.
    Last edited by NEET; 09-23-2015 at 09:59 AM.
    Bike~less

  30. #2530
    mtbr member
    Reputation: micah356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    162
    Yes, it is possible to damage the frame if you don't get the cups in straight. IF they are out of alignment enough, you will deform the head tube. But I have done it several times with my home-made press.

    I don't do it on expensive frames, like my Ti Rove - not worth the risk. But on my fixed gear commuter, sure.

    And did you buy the frame at the LBS?
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling – epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  31. #2531
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    Hey need some advice. my LBS quoted my $30 to press the headset for my 2016 Honzo ST. I was wondering if there is any possibility of me screwing up if I press them myself. In other words, can damage the frame in any way. There is some DIY / Homemade press tool that seems simple to make. Note, I've never done this before.
    $30 for that?! Maybe find a new lbs... Anyways, if that's your only option, i say just pay it, they may end up needing to shave off some of the metal before pressing - mine didn't require it but it is common to need to do that while pressing a headset. It will most likely take them 5 minutes though, which is why I say that $30 is absurd

  32. #2532
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    776
    If you bought the frame from them, they really should do this for free! It'll probably take them 5 minutes. Now, if you bought the frame online then take it in, I can understand the charge.

    Putting them in DIY, even with a homemade press, is easy enough. I wouldn't worry about things, especially in a burly steel frame such as the Kona. I say go for it, just go slowly, and don't try to slam it in. I know people who have gone the DIY route on carbon road frames with no problems.

  33. #2533
    May contain nuts
    Reputation: Haggis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,087
    Super easy job really. Use some copper anti seize or grease and a wide jaw bench vice to keep everything nice and parallel. Takes all of 5min.

  34. #2534
    SP Singletrack rocks
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,789
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    $30 for that?! Maybe find a new lbs... Anyways, if that's your only option, i say just pay it, they may end up needing to shave off some of the metal before pressing - mine didn't require it but it is common to need to do that while pressing a headset. It will most likely take them 5 minutes though, which is why I say that $30 is absurd
    dude you have to pay for experince and the tool and the building as stuff.

    30 dollars is cheaper than a messed up frame.

    With that said I own my own Headset press.

  35. #2535
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by BushwackerinPA View Post
    dude you have to pay for experince and the tool and the building as stuff.

    30 dollars is cheaper than a messed up frame.

    With that said I own my own Headset press.
    Did you read my post? "Anyways, if that's your only option, i say just pay it..." I am all about supporting the LBS, but it's not that expensive of a tool for a shop, and it will literally take them 5 minutes, so I don't know where they get off charging that. Maybe they are estimating based on potentially needing to mill some metal out of the headtube to get the headset cups in properly - since like I said, this is a common step - but if they get away without doing that (which they likely will), they don't need to charge that. It's not the most skill related task, it comes down to having the tool.

  36. #2536
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477
    took the new honzo out today on its first ride…love it…it was a really rocky trail and I was concerned about sidewall tears (wtb trailblazers/wtb scrapers) but alas-those fears were unfounded. I probably could have dropped a few psi on the tires but i figured I wanted to make sure I could make it down in one piece.

    the 27.5+ tires was like an extra inch of suspension, which is really nice on a hard tail.

  37. #2537
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    took the new honzo out today on its first ride…love it…it was a really rocky trail and I was concerned about sidewall tears (wtb trailblazers/wtb scrapers) but alas-those fears were unfounded. I probably could have dropped a few psi on the tires but i figured I wanted to make sure I could make it down in one piece.

    the 27.5+ tires was like an extra inch of suspension, which is really nice on a hard tail.
    What non-plus tires are you comparing the Trailblazers to?

  38. #2538
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    84


    Scored one of the last new 2015s. Medium. Only change for now is lock-on Oury grips.

  39. #2539
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    What non-plus tires are you comparing the Trailblazers to?
    None really, as this was my first ride on my honzo (27.5+ tires or not). But I have ridden this trail previously with traditional 27.5 tires on my other steel hardtail and I was bouncing around like a pinball.

  40. #2540
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    593
    But we're you a pinball wizard?

  41. #2541
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    None really, as this was my first ride on my honzo (27.5+ tires or not). But I have ridden this trail previously with traditional 27.5 tires on my other steel hardtail and I was bouncing around like a pinball.
    OK cool. What was the tires and other infos on you nonHonzo HT?

    I wonder if b+ is worth trying one these days as I already run 2.5s.

  42. #2542
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    OK cool. What was the tires and other infos on you nonHonzo HT?

    I wonder if b+ is worth trying one these days as I already run 2.5s.
    I ran a beefy Hans Dampf 2.35 (bigger than other 2.5s) front on a 19mm Mavic Crossmax. Worked just fine. I couldn't run crazy low PSI without the tire rolling around on the rim, but 22-24 PSI was no problem. With the 29mm width Traverse rims I'm running 19psi with the same tires and no rolling in the corners at all.

    Since I've had no issues with a 3.0 on a 25mm Stands Flow EX on my rigid ss, I have no doubts a 2.8 tire would work great on a set of 27.5 Traverse wheels. The idea that you need a 45mm rim to run 27.5+ tires is marketing gobbledy ****.

    I'm not pushing Roval wheels, but $600 for a wheelset without the weight penalty of a fat bike rim is nice.

  43. #2543
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    OK cool. What was the tires and other infos on you nonHonzo HT?

    I wonder if b+ is worth trying one these days as I already run 2.5s.
    Stans flow EX 27.5 + Kenda nevegal 2.35 rear/maxxis high roller 2.35.

    I.a.n. - I agree running 2.8s on a 25mm or wider rim would be fine and that 45mm rims aren't necessary, but the 45mm rims do indeed add lot more traction then your traditional 25mm+ ID rim width. There is a noticeable difference, evn to a deadhead like me.

    Personally, I like the extra cusion that a B+ wheel/tire lends to a hardtail especially when riding rocky stuff (which is my typical trail topography).

  44. #2544
    Rocks belong
    Reputation: 06HokieMTB's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    4,408
    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Since I've had no issues with a 3.0 on a 25mm Stands Flow EX on my rigid ss, I have no doubts a 2.8 tire would work great on a set of 27.5 Traverse wheels. The idea that you need a 45mm rim to run 27.5+ tires is marketing gobbledy ****.

    I'm not pushing Roval wheels, but $600 for a wheelset without the weight penalty of a fat bike rim is nice.
    Scott/Syncros did their own testing and found that 38-40mm (internal) with 2.75" tires was about optimal for a B+ trail bike.

    Me, personally, intend to build some WTB Asym i35's with 2.8"ish tires
    I like 'em long, low, slack and playful

  45. #2545
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    Stans flow EX 27.5 + Kenda nevegal 2.35 rear/maxxis high roller 2.35.

    I.a.n. - I agree running 2.8s on a 25mm or wider rim would be fine and that 45mm rims aren't necessary, but the 45mm rims do indeed add lot more traction then your traditional 25mm+ ID rim width. There is a noticeable difference, evn to a deadhead like me.

    Personally, I like the extra cusion that a B+ wheel/tire lends to a hardtail especially when riding rocky stuff (which is my typical trail topography).
    Yeah, I don.t doubt that a 45mm rim is better suited for the fit of a larger tire, but I've heard people claim it's required to run a fat rim with fat tires, which I've found isn't the case. Once 45mm wheels are in the 1800g range, I'll definitely consider it.

  46. #2546
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477
    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    Yeah, I don.t doubt that a 45mm rim is better suited for the fit of a larger tire, but I've heard people claim it's required to run a fat rim with fat tires, which I've found isn't the case. Once 45mm wheels are in the 1800g range, I'll definitely consider it.
    On that note, I decided after yesterdays' ride that I would try and swap over some smaller diameter tires onto the scrapers to see what would come of the 'feel' of the bike....maybe swap over the highrollers to see what happens...again, that would lower the BB even more and i would def get some pedal smacks

  47. #2547
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Thanks for all the info so far. I may need measurements later. I just wonder if the increase in volume is worth it over 2.5 DHFs. I get all the grip and sidewall strength I could ever want at probably the same weight with good volume.

  48. #2548
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Thanks for all the info so far. I may need measurements later. I just wonder if the increase in volume is worth it over 2.5 DHFs. I get all the grip and sidewall strength I could ever want at probably the same weight with good volume.
    Probably less weight... the scrapers are around 650 grams each for rims only, those tires can't be lighter than the Minion 2.5's either. I am sold on the 2.5's, gonna get a set of Easton ARC 30's this winter

  49. #2549
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477
    Tell you what, with the scrapers and trailblazers together it barely clears the inside of the stays. So much so that a zip tie that I had clipped on the driveside was rubbing the sidewalls.

    This happened with the drop outs slid back and slammed, it didn't matter. We're talking about 2,3mm maax clearance on each side once all is said and done.

  50. #2550
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    84
    What kind of tire pressure are y'all running on your Honzos with the Ardents tubeless?

  51. #2551
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2

    New 2016 Honzo ST

    This is the first bike that I've ever built myself, and I can attribute the fact that I chose it mainly due to this thread and its 100+ pages of loyalty. I finished building it last Saturday and have a few rides in on it. I've always had dedicated XC race bikes in the past, and I've got to admit this bike is a whole lot more fun than any of them have ever been. Someone a bunch of pages back said that the Honzo is the result of a steam roller having a baby with a dirt jump bike- I'd agree with that statement completely. It is absolutely fantastic.

    Here's my build:
    2016 Honzo ST medium frame
    Full m8000 series XT 11 speed drive train (32 tooth chain ring, 11-42 cassette)
    XT m8020 pedals
    XT m8000 brakes (180 mm rotor front, 160 mm rotor rear)
    Stan's Flows on Hope Pro 2's with DT 14/15 spokes
    Minion DHF 2.3 front and Ardent 2.25 rear with Stan's sealant
    Rock Shox Pike Solo Air 140 mm
    Thomson Elite Seatpost
    Thomson Elite X4 50 mm stem
    Thomson Trail alloy riser bar
    Ergon GE1 grips
    WTB Volt Race saddle
    Cane Creek 40 series headset
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-1.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-2.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-3.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-4.jpg  


  52. #2552
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Very nice, it compliments the YJ also.

  53. #2553
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Very nice, it compliments the YJ also.
    Thank you. Now that you mention it, it does seem to complement the Jeep a bit. I certainly hadn't planned on that happening.

  54. #2554
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    20
    How are you guys running the dropper lines on the 16' frames?

  55. #2555
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    How are you guys running the dropper lines on the 16' frames?
    Not as nicely as I would want... But it's all I could come up with

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imageuploadedbytapatalk1443563352.916048.jpg

  56. #2556
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    5
    I have the same question... The answer I got back from Kona Tech was to use the plastic hardware provided to route it along the left side of the down tube. So, I guess we're supposed to use zip ties...

  57. #2557
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Greggov View Post
    I have the same question... The answer I got back from Kona Tech was to use the plastic hardware provided to route it along the left side of the down tube. So, I guess we're supposed to use zip ties...
    Yeah that's not happening.....

  58. #2558
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    477
    There are two bolts on the left side (NOT the bottle cage mounts), but the 2 up closer to the headtube.

    Unscrew those two bolts attach the p-clips to them and swap out the rubber stopper that came installed with the frame with the other one that has a hole to insert the stealth dropper housing...pretty clean actually.

    If you're running nom stealth, then yea-you'll have to cook something up (probably with a zip tie or two.)

  59. #2559
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Non-stealth is pretty clean too. I ran my line down the center sections of the cable guides. The new guides do a better job as I had mine ran the same way (reverb down the center guide with the brake line and shifter cable held on the outside on the guide with zip ties) on my 2013.

    sferg, that's a heck of a kink on your line. It has to put a lot of stresss on the line in the dropped position. I would reroute it down the downtube if you have the length.

  60. #2560
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    There are two bolts on the left side (NOT the bottle cage mounts), but the 2 up closer to the headtube.

    Unscrew those two bolts attach the p-clips to them and swap out the rubber stopper that came installed with the frame with the other one that has a hole to insert the stealth dropper housing...pretty clean actually.

    If you're running nom stealth, then yea-you'll have to cook something up (probably with a zip tie or two.)
    For whatever reason, there were no p-clips shipped with my frame. Kona tech sent me a photo of them, and suggested an auto parts store... I just picked up 100 for $4.

  61. #2561
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by Greggov View Post
    For whatever reason, there were no p-clips shipped with my frame. Kona tech sent me a photo of them, and suggested an auto parts store... I just picked up 100 for $4.
    Lol, not a bad call actually, I destroyed 3 in the process of installing mine - kept over tightening.

  62. #2562
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    20
    Has anybody run a 51mm offset 140mm travel fork on the 16' yet? Or have any experience comparing a 46 offset to the 51?

  63. #2563
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    776
    I haven't on the Honzo yet (will be running a 140 51 offset), but the usual thinking is that the higher the travel, the better it is to go with more offset (for improved handling). But in my experience, some folks are very sensitive to such changes, others not so much.

  64. #2564
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    5

    2016 Honzo

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_8237.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_8238.jpg


    Almost finished with my first Honzo. She still needs a brake adapter for the front.

    2016 Medium Frame
    2016 Pike 140
    Zee drivetrain with RaceFace ring
    XT brakes (203 rotor on front, 180 rear)
    Stans Crest wheels
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front and rear
    X-Fusion dropper
    Easton Havoc stem
    Easton Haven Carbon bars

  65. #2565
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,422
    Quote Originally Posted by zach17 View Post
    Has anybody run a 51mm offset 140mm travel fork on the 16' yet? Or have any experience comparing a 46 offset to the 51?
    I'm running a 140mm with 51mm offset on a 16' and I like it. Steering/handling is similar to my 650B trail bike (very nimble). I have not noticed any issues with the slightly longer wheelbase, though I do ride a small.

    That said, here's a good read for all those interested in fork offsets as they apply to 29ers.

    http://blog.artscyclery.com/ask-a-me...r-51mm-offset/

  66. #2566
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by Greggov View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_8237.jpg 
Views:	1931 
Size:	166.1 KB 
ID:	1019318Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_8238.jpg 
Views:	2966 
Size:	172.3 KB 
ID:	1019319


    Almost finished with my first Honzo. She still needs a brake adapter for the front.

    2016 Medium Frame
    2016 Pike 140
    Zee drivetrain with RaceFace ring
    XT brakes (203 rotor on front, 180 rear)
    Stans Crest wheels
    Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front and rear
    X-Fusion dropper
    Easton Havoc stem
    Easton Haven Carbon bars
    SO clean. Love the stripped stickers... making me want to do the same. Stem is great accent too! How do you like the Crest rims? You need a black dropper

  67. #2567
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    SO clean. Love the stripped stickers... making me want to do the same. Stem is great accent too! How do you like the Crest rims? You need a black dropper
    Thanks! I've never stripped the stickers from any of my other rides, but for some reason was inspired to do it to this one as soon as I pulled the frame out of the box (maybe because I watched Mad Max the night before).
    I love the Crests. They are light and durable. They aren't the widest, but they aren't narrow either. For some, they might not work. I'm 150lbs, ride pretty aggressively and have never had a real issue. I broke a spoke on the rear last winter and rode nearly a month before replacing it, and the wheel was still true which is fairly remarkable given the amount of roots on our local trails.
    I was momentarily bummed about the seat post... then I sat on it and pedaled around.

  68. #2568
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by Greggov View Post
    Thanks! I've never stripped the stickers from any of my other rides, but for some reason was inspired to do it to this one as soon as I pulled the frame out of the box (maybe because I watched Mad Max the night before).
    I love the Crests. They are light and durable. They aren't the widest, but they aren't narrow either. For some, they might not work. I'm 150lbs, ride pretty aggressively and have never had a real issue. I broke a spoke on the rear last winter and rode nearly a month before replacing it, and the wheel was still true which is fairly remarkable given the amount of roots on our local trails.
    I was momentarily bummed about the seat post... then I sat on it and pedaled around.
    Whoa I just noticed, that dropper was JUST short enough to be workable ey? Looks like its slammed all the way it could go!

    I am on the i25's right now but I'm thinking wider... the Easton ARC 27 or 30 are calling me!

    Looks like we are on the same cranks too, I can't believe how inexpensive they are... they are only like 20-30 grams heavier than XT

  69. #2569
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Whoa I just noticed, that dropper was JUST short enough to be workable ey? Looks like its slammed all the way it could go!

    I am on the i25's right now but I'm thinking wider... the Easton ARC 27 or 30 are calling me!

    Looks like we are on the same cranks too, I can't believe how inexpensive they are... they are only like 20-30 grams heavier than XT
    Yeah, the dropper was a gamble, but I really wanted to run a 150 so had to try. Since the pictures were taken, I raised it 1/8". I'm 5'9", 30" inseam, and chose to go with the medium frame. With 170 crank arms, the bike fits me absolutely perfect. And yes, I love the Zee cranks for the price and quality. The whole drivetrain was just over $200.

  70. #2570
    mtbr member
    Reputation: micah356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    162
    I have Crest rims on my cross bike, but I don't like them on the Honzo. I had to use them last week as a back up wheelset and I found them very flexy. Hard to say if it was the rim flexing, or just the tire having less support (likely a combination of the two). However, they are plenty durable. I bottomed out the rear rim a couple of times with no signs of impact at all. IMO the i25 rims are the best trade-off of width and weight right now. Anything wider seems to be significantly heavier.
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling – epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  71. #2571
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by micah356 View Post
    I have Crest rims on my cross bike, but I don't like them on the Honzo. I had to use them last week as a back up wheelset and I found them very flexy. Hard to say if it was the rim flexing, or just the tire having less support (likely a combination of the two). However, they are plenty durable. I bottomed out the rear rim a couple of times with no signs of impact at all. IMO the i25 rims are the best trade-off of width and weight right now. Anything wider seems to be significantly heavier.
    The Easton ARC 30's are wider and lighter than the i25's

  72. #2572
    WNC Native
    Reputation: nitrousjunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,278
    Has anyone tried a 35mm internal width rim with a 2.2-2.3 tire on the rear of a 2012 model?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  73. #2573
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Has anyone tried a 35mm internal width rim with a 2.2-2.3 tire on the rear of a 2012 model?
    Most 2.2 o 2.3 tread patterns wouldn't handle great with a 35mm internal rim width... You would have essentially zero side nobs with most, if not all, tires

  74. #2574
    WNC Native
    Reputation: nitrousjunky's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,278
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Most 2.2 o 2.3 tread patterns wouldn't handle great with a 35mm internal rim width... You would have essentially zero side nobs with most, if not all, tires
    Yeah I've ran a Bonty Jones ACX 2.2 on a P35 before and Rampage 2.3 on 38mm Kris Holm rim. It wasn't bad, just curious if anyone has actually tried it for fit. I'll probably end up switching to a 2016 frame, just like the look and color of my 2012 better.

    FYI Rampage on 38mm KH rim
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3333.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_3646.jpg  

    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  75. #2575
    mtbr member
    Reputation: micah356's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    162
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    The Easton ARC 30's are wider and lighter than the i25's
    I should have specified I was referring to the KOM rims, which seem to be about the same as the ARC - the ARC 24 is 10g lighter than the KOM i25, the ARC 30 is 70g heavier than the KOM i25.
    Living the dream at TDA Global Cycling – epic bike tours from 500 to 15,000 km.

    TDA Global Cycling

  76. #2576
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by micah356 View Post
    I should have specified I was referring to the KOM rims, which seem to be about the same as the ARC - the ARC 24 is 10g lighter than the KOM i25, the ARC 30 is 70g heavier than the KOM i25.
    Oh gotcha! I am on the frequency TCS... going ARC 30 will be a reduction for me which will be nice! Looking forward to going wider.

  77. #2577
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    283
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpg

  78. #2578
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Carabao, what brought you back to the Honzo over the EPO?

  79. #2579
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by ledude View Post
    Stans flow EX 27.5 + Kenda nevegal 2.35 rear/maxxis high roller 2.35.

    I.a.n. - I agree running 2.8s on a 25mm or wider rim would be fine and that 45mm rims aren't necessary, but the 45mm rims do indeed add lot more traction then your traditional 25mm+ ID rim width. There is a noticeable difference, evn to a deadhead like me.

    Personally, I like the extra cusion that a B+ wheel/tire lends to a hardtail especially when riding rocky stuff (which is my typical trail topography).
    I'm curious, since you say your local trails are very rocky, have pedal strikes been a big issue? I just beat my i25's up so bad they won't seat tubless anymore, so I am debating between staying 29" with the new Easton ARC 30's and minion 2.5 front and rear, or whether to go the scraper/trailblazer route. My biggest concern is pedal strikes with the low bb and clearing technical sections without getting hung up. Also, how is it climbing with the heavy wheelset? Do you live somewhere with pretty big climbs?

  80. #2580
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    I'm curious, since you say your local trails are very rocky, have pedal strikes been a big issue? I just beat my i25's up so bad they won't seat tubless anymore, so I am debating between staying 29" with the new Easton ARC 30's and minion 2.5 front and rear, or whether to go the scraper/trailblazer route. My biggest concern is pedal strikes with the low bb and clearing technical sections without getting hung up. Also, how is it climbing with the heavy wheelset? Do you live somewhere with pretty big climbs?

    I actually haven't tried 27.5+ tires yet, so I can't comment about pedal strikes. From what I've read the diameter of 6Fattie wheels are just slightly less than regular tires on a 29er wheel, so I would imagine pedal strikes aren't a huge problem, but something to consider if you're already hitting your pedals on a 29er rim.

  81. #2581
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by i.a.n. View Post
    I actually haven't tried 27.5+ tires yet, so I can't comment about pedal strikes. From what I've read the diameter of 6Fattie wheels are just slightly less than regular tires on a 29er wheel, so I would imagine pedal strikes aren't a huge problem, but something to consider if you're already hitting your pedals on a 29er rim.
    No pedal strike issues with my 29er wheels (also running the 140 pike so that puts me up 10-15mm higher than stock). I'm also running 170mm cranks so I got that going for me as well. I think the 12" measurement is with the bike sitting and no rider on it, but these + tires are essentially going to feel like 1" of suspension, I imagine I would run them around 15psi or lower (not too familiar with fatter tires but from what I gather this is a pretty good estimate), so with that "sag" The bb is probably closer to 11.75 or even 11.5 inches. Right now I am somewhere between 12.5 and 12.75 bb height with the 140 pike and minions (2.5 front 2.3 rear).

    It's either going fattie or going wider rims with the 2.5 minion front and rear - I think the results with both will be a sweet improvement, but this whole b+ craze has got me thinking

  82. #2582
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    474
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    No pedal strike issues with my 29er wheels (also running the 140 pike so that puts me up 10-15mm higher than stock). I'm also running 170mm cranks so I got that going for me as well. I think the 12" measurement is with the bike sitting and no rider on it, but these + tires are essentially going to feel like 1" of suspension, I imagine I would run them around 15psi or lower (not too familiar with fatter tires but from what I gather this is a pretty good estimate), so with that "sag" The bb is probably closer to 11.75 or even 11.5 inches. Right now I am somewhere between 12.5 and 12.75 bb height with the 140 pike and minions (2.5 front 2.3 rear).

    It's either going fattie or going wider rims with the 2.5 minion front and rear - I think the results with both will be a sweet improvement, but this whole b+ craze has got me thinking
    I've got Roval Traverse Fatties on my Honzo at the moment. 29mm inner width let's me run 18-20psi (2.35 Hans Dampf/2.25 Ardent). Prolly gonna get a set of 6Fattie wheels with 3.0 tires at some point for shuttle runs at places like Downieville just for grins. Otherwise the 29mm rims are awesome.

  83. #2583
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    283
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Carabao, what brought you back to the Honzo over the EPO?
    Looks and value. Set up with the same fork the Honzo and EPO have almost identical geometries. So other than the 4 pound weight difference, they're very similar. A hardtail connoisseur such as myself will notice a few nuisances.

    The EPO has:

    1. a slightly longer front center.
    2. a slightly higher bottom bracket.
    3. a stiffer front triangle.
    4. a more compliant rear triangle both laterally and vertically.
    5. less tire clearance.

    Both are great riding frames but achieve this through different means. The EPO is lighter and pedals great, but the Honzo is stiffer in the rear triangle/bottom bracket area which really benefits riders who hammer out of the saddle a lot. The EPO is more compliant but it's progressive and snappy. The Honzo is more linear in it's compliance but has a less lively, more damped feel.

    In the end I just loved the way the Honzo looked. Loved the rear tire clearance, chainstays, yoke, and standover. I've always liked steel, so for me it was a good decision to free up some funds for an eventual complete second bike, something I've never owned. And I have to admit it's partially sentimental. I started this thread in 2011 and always regretted selling my Honzo. I had just purchased my EPO when I saw the 2016 and I wanted it but knew I already had the ultimate hardtail. Reason went out the window after seeing and riding my brother's Honzo. I just had to get it.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-p2pb12755250.jpg

  84. #2584
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,422
    Sorry if this has been asked before. What's the max tire clearance out back on a '16. 29er and 27.5+?

  85. #2585
    Bnerd
    Reputation: RideEverything's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    728
    I'm still riding the original '12 Honzo and still loving it!
    I am drooling over the Ti Honzo and it is in a tie with a Chromag Surface if I ever have the money to make that happen.

    Here's some pics of the OG Honzo from my most recent ride on it last week.

    I collapsed off my bike after 5000ft of climbing to this point.
    That's the Black Tusk in the background.


    A view of the alpine.


    Looking back to where I came from.

  86. #2586
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    55

    G2 Fork on a Honzo?

    Anyone riding G2 on their Honzo. Got great deal on A Fox 120mm fork but dealer failed to mention it's G2 offset. Before I send it back, curious how it would affect the Honzo's steering.
    Good, bad, ugly?
    Thanks.

  87. #2587
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by D1PHAM View Post
    Sorry if this has been asked before. What's the max tire clearance out back on a '16. 29er and 27.5+?
    2.4 ardent has TONS of clearance, with shortest chain stay. So pretty much whatever 29" tire you want

  88. #2588
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    It has been discussed in here before, but most of the 34mm stanchioned fork (pike, 34/36, trace, stage) run 51mm offset the same as a G2 fork. It essentially boils down to faster steering through less trail and wheel flop with the 51mm fork. The 46mm offset forks steer slightly slower. I run a 46mm Rev @140 I tend to stand way more than sit and like to steer from my hips. I want a stiffer fork so I think it will be a 46mm pike when the times comes. 5'9" 195 lbs running 2.5 DHF/2.3 DHR II at 24 & 28 psi for reference.

  89. #2589
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    I measured over 74mm at the yoke/cs weld.

  90. #2590
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Harry Mackenzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,038
    Put an order with my LBS for a 2015 medium Honzo today! I've been window shopping it all year and decided to finally order it today.

  91. #2591
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    641
    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Mackenzie View Post
    Put an order with my LBS for a 2015 medium Honzo today! I've been window shopping it all year and decided to finally order it today.
    Congrats! You get a descent discount since it was last year's model?

  92. #2592
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Harry Mackenzie's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,038
    Quote Originally Posted by SB666 View Post
    Congrats! You get a descent discount since it was last year's model?
    Got a discount. Not sure how decent on the discount haha.

  93. #2593
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    438
    @carabao: Excellent writeup of EPO-Honzo comparisons. Thank you. Could you please do the same, comparing your 2012 to the 2016?

    [I love my 2012, riding it SS, but race a Superfly hardtail for the weight advantage. So I've been considering the EPO, but have been holding off because it doesn't have a clean SS option. Anyhow, I'm thinking i could stick with what I'm doing, but get the new Honzo frame if it has benefits additional to the 2012...]

  94. #2594
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Building up a 2016 frame. I have a 142mm rear hub. How do I make this work with the 148mm rear of the honzo? Do I need different dropouts? Tried searching and can't really find what I'm looking for.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  95. #2595
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    283
    Quote Originally Posted by Collins View Post
    @carabao: Excellent writeup of EPO-Honzo comparisons. Thank you. Could you please do the same, comparing your 2012 to the 2016?

    [I love my 2012, riding it SS, but race a Superfly hardtail for the weight advantage. So I've been considering the EPO, but have been holding off because it doesn't have a clean SS option. Anyhow, I'm thinking i could stick with what I'm doing, but get the new Honzo frame if it has benefits additional to the 2012...]
    Glad someone found it useful! I respond the best I can, but sometimes I go full bike geek, haha.

    I've owned both the 2012 and the 2013 and there's no discernable difference to me besides the lower top tube on the latter. I can't honestly say I felt the seat brace. So compared to the 2016, after about 130 miles on the frame, it's definitely worth the upgrade. First of all, the '16 has a much stiffer BB, stiffer than the EPO, so if you climb out of the saddle a lot you'll really appreciate this. If you sit and spin then maybe not. The design of the BB yoke makes a lot of sense. It allows much more clearance and at the same time resists pedaling forces that hurt power transfer, especially so if you mash/hammer, and during sprinting.

    Another benefit is you gain some real compliance from the flattened stays and the ability to run fat assss tires. I'm running 2.4 Ibexs. The 12'/13' felt a little rough for me with a 2.4 ardent so I would run the stays at 16.5 for the WB and to move the tire a little behind my center of gravity. It might sound silly but it actually makes a significant difference. Try it. I don't feel the need to do this on the '16.

    Finally, I love the no nonsense looks, and the frame is improved to run real tires. And who knows, next year they may switch to boost. And they improved the reach numbers so if you appreciate responsive handling you can run a shorter stem and really transform the bike. In short, get a '16 while you can.

  96. #2596
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    I too, came from a 2013 and echo what Carabao said in his comparison. The 2013 was stiff and would takes hits but put energy back through me. The 2016 is awesome every frame update has made it a better riding and handling bike. Also, the 2016 has the best color other than the 2012.

  97. #2597
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    732
    Quote Originally Posted by Ftb90 View Post
    Building up a 2016 frame. I have a 142mm rear hub. How do I make this work with the 148mm rear of the honzo? Do I need different dropouts? Tried searching and can't really find what I'm looking for.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
    Not sure which one you got but only the aluminum had boost fortunately.

  98. #2598
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    27
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Not sure which one you got but only the aluminum had boost fortunately.
    ST. I guess it's just just a matter of me not being familiar with the maxle. It didn't seem like I was able to get it tighten up completely. Leaving a little play in between the hub and dropout. I'll fool with it a little more tomorrow and see if I can figure it out.

    Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

  99. #2599
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    438
    Big thanks, Carabao -- exactly what I needed to know.

  100. #2600
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    32
    Ordered a 2016 ST frame and in the process of getting all the stuff to build it up. But I'm uncertain regarding what headset to use. Can this FSA Z-t Eco headset work: FSA Z-t Eco Headset | Headsets Shop

    Head tube: Tapered 1 1/8 "- 1 1/2"

    Above: ZS44 / 1 1/8 "- semi-intergriert
    Below: IS52 / 1 1/2 "- full-intergriert

Similar Threads

  1. Post your ETSX builds
    By Shark in forum Rocky Mountain
    Replies: 129
    Last Post: 07-22-2016, 07:23 PM
  2. Post your Practical Builds
    By hans-solo in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 02-23-2009, 10:13 AM
  3. Custom Builds Thread
    By jncarpenter in forum Turner
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 05-22-2008, 03:33 PM
  4. post your 7" travel under 40 lbs builds
    By dusthuffer in forum Downhill - Freeride
    Replies: 99
    Last Post: 05-14-2008, 09:45 AM
  5. XCL Build thread X Post
    By DirtDad in forum Custom Builders & Other Manufacturers
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-19-2006, 10:24 AM

Members who have read this thread: 547

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •