Page 25 of 74 FirstFirst ... 1521222324252627282935 ... LastLast
Results 1,201 to 1,250 of 3658
  1. #1201
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Drop the chainguide and buy a narrow/wide chainring like the one from race face which is currently pretty cheap. Supports 9, 10 and 11 speed and prevents dropped chains.

  2. #1202
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,560

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Finally got to test ride a small and medium Honzo today- I'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam and the Medium is way too big. With the stock fork, the top tube was slammed up against my package and I'm planning on putting a 140 on.

    Anyone got a small frame you don't want?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  3. #1203
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    642
    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Wow, wouldnt have thought the chain guide would weigh so much. Is it a big negative to drop that?

    Also, any recommendation on tires to go for? Ikon? Maybe a Nobby Nic up front and a Racing Ralph in back?
    The stock chainguide has a steel backplate so it is a bit heavier than an aluminum backed one. I have mine set up with a Wolftooth ring and Zee rd and so far they have been steady.

    I have been running a 2.4 Ardent/2.35 Ikon combo that has served me well. When I switch it up I might go 2.4 Ardents front and rear or a Butcher up front with a Ground Control in the back for winter conditions.

    I really wouldn't worry about the overall weight so much. My small Honzo is mostly mid-range parts (read no carbon fiber) and it sits at 28 lbs 11 ozs. I'd image I could get it into the 27 lb range if I went with carbon parts and wheels but I think a dropper in the next big upgrade for mine. Although a Derby rimmed wheelset would be insane.

    I am happy with my bike and I ride with a lot more confidence over my old Mamba. The margin for rider error seems to be much greater on this bike.

  4. #1204
    Chronic 1st-timer
    Reputation: lubes17319's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,351
    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Finally got to test ride a small and medium Honzo today- I'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam and the Medium is way too big. With the stock fork, the top tube was slammed up against my package and I'm planning on putting a 140 on.

    Anyone got a small frame you don't want?


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Yeah boy!
    Joining the local Kona krew.
    Trailwrecker at large

  5. #1205
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    The stock chainguide has a steel backplate so it is a bit heavier than an aluminum backed one. I have mine set up with a Wolftooth ring and Zee rd and so far they have been steady.

    I have been running a 2.4 Ardent/2.35 Ikon combo that has served me well. When I switch it up I might go 2.4 Ardents front and rear or a Butcher up front with a Ground Control in the back for winter conditions.

    I really wouldn't worry about the overall weight so much. My small Honzo is mostly mid-range parts (read no carbon fiber) and it sits at 28 lbs 11 ozs. I'd image I could get it into the 27 lb range if I went with carbon parts and wheels but I think a dropper in the next big upgrade for mine. Although a Derby rimmed wheelset would be insane.

    I am happy with my bike and I ride with a lot more confidence over my old Mamba. The margin for rider error seems to be much greater on this bike.
    Very nice! Are you tubeless? I'm curious as to how much weight that saves.

    I am having my LBS put a quote together right now. Stock small Honzo, with a few modifications. SLX brakes, Stans Flow EX rims, and lighter chainguide (thanks all for advice). Probably set up tubeless and replace the Ardent in back with an Ikon.

    Hoping that gets the bike under 30 lbs and the price still reasonable!

  6. #1206
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    ^ Personally I'd ditch the chainguide altogether and get one of the new Raceface narrow/wide rings and a Zee short cage rear derailleur w/clutch. The derailleur itself will prove to be more beneficial for no dropping of the chain, less drivetrain chatter, and much better shifting than the stock Deore unit. Plus the Zee derailleur you can easily find under $80, a new chainguide, not so much. Everything these days is $100+ like the MRP Lopes SL guide.
    konahonzo

  7. #1207
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ Personally I'd ditch the chainguide altogether and get one of the new Raceface narrow/wide rings and a Zee short cage rear derailleur w/clutch. The derailleur itself will prove to be more beneficial for no dropping of the chain, less drivetrain chatter, and much better shifting than the stock Deore unit. Plus the Zee derailleur you can easily find under $80, a new chainguide, not so much. Everything these days is $100+ like the MRP Lopes SL guide.
    Thanks for the advice amigo. I do like that idea, and it seems more simplistic.

    Also, I just got the quote back regarding the modifications I originally suggested, and it was a bit more than what I was expecting. Quote was around $2750. I am considering just buying the frame and building myself. I have never built a bike before so I was wondering if it is a very difficult thing to do and whether or not it would be much cheaper in the end.

    Seems like a fun project, but not sure how difficult the cable routing and drivetrain stuff is to figure out. I really dont know much about brakes and derailleurs.

  8. #1208
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    544
    +1 on going with the RaceFace narrow wide rings and also building it yourself. It's much more convenient for me to fix something myself than to haul the bike in and pay and wait for someone else to do it for me. You may not save much on the first build because of the random specialty tools you'll need, like headset press, bb install tool, etc., but if you're like many of us, this Honzo build will most likely will not be your last project. Something else to consider is having the shop do some and not all of the work for you, like said headset and fork install.

  9. #1209
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Thanks for the advice amigo. I do like that idea, and it seems more simplistic.

    Also, I just got the quote back regarding the modifications I originally suggested, and it was a bit more than what I was expecting. Quote was around $2750. I am considering just buying the frame and building myself. I have never built a bike before so I was wondering if it is a very difficult thing to do and whether or not it would be much cheaper in the end.

    Seems like a fun project, but not sure how difficult the cable routing and drivetrain stuff is to figure out. I really dont know much about brakes and derailleurs.
    The Honzo is my third bike I've build myself, definitely not rocket science by any means. Only head into my LBS to have them install headset cups or adjust drivetrain. Everything else is quite simple.

    For $2750 I'd definitely build it myself. Here's a quick run down of what it would cost you, with a better spec than stock for sure. Brakes and crank pricing was from Blueskycycling.com (where I purchased mine from too), wheels from cyclesportsuk.co.uk, everything else but the frame from Chainreactioncycles.com (I use them a ton as well). As for the frame, you can get it from Bikeman.com for $524.

    Here's a quick run down of pricing, I choose all Nukeproof stuff for basis of argument as stems, bars, saddles, seat post, grips are all personal choice and pricing is all over the place with them, but Nukeproof makes quality stuff, definitely lighter than Kona's stock pieces for sure.

    So basically you're looking at a savings of $400 with a much better build and lighter too. Better fork, better wheelset, true 1x10 Short Cage drivetrain w/clutch and narrow/wide chainring.

    konahonzo

  10. #1210
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    +1 on going with the RaceFace narrow wide rings and also building it yourself. It's much more convenient for me to fix something myself than to haul the bike in and pay and wait for someone else to do it for me. You may not save much on the first build because of the random specialty tools you'll need, like headset press, bb install tool, etc., but if you're like many of us, this Honzo build will most likely will not be your last project. Something else to consider is having the shop do some and not all of the work for you, like said headset and fork install.
    Thanks for the advice. Think that could be a good starting point. Main concern is whether or not I'll be able to do most of the work. I can do a lot of quick fix things on the bike, but have literally no knowledge of cable routing, setting up brakes, derailleurs, etc.

    Could be a learning experience, but not sure the outcome will be so good!

  11. #1211
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    642
    The first bike I built was my Honzo. I read a lot about it and just made note of how it came apart. Also, a threaded rod and a stack of 1.5" washers worked as a headset press for me.

  12. #1212
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The Honzo is my third bike I've build myself, definitely not rocket science by any means. Only head into my LBS to have them install headset cups or adjust drivetrain. Everything else is quite simple.

    For $2750 I'd definitely build it myself. Here's a quick run down of what it would cost you, with a better spec than stock for sure. Brakes and crank pricing was from Blueskycycling.com (where I purchased mine from too), wheels from cyclesportsuk.co.uk, everything else but the frame from Chainreactioncycles.com (I use them a ton as well). As for the frame, you can get it from Bikeman.com for $524.

    Here's a quick run down of pricing, I choose all Nukeproof stuff for basis of argument as stems, bars, saddles, seat post, grips are all personal choice and pricing is all over the place with them, but Nukeproof makes quality stuff, definitely lighter than Kona's stock pieces for sure.

    So basically you're looking at a savings of $400 with a much better build and lighter too. Better fork, better wheelset, true 1x10 Short Cage drivetrain w/clutch and narrow/wide chainring.

    Definitely bookmarking this. I've started purchasing most of these items already. I didnt find an 1x10 SLX crank so I got some Race-Facecrank arms to go with the
    narrow/wide chainring. I havent bought the fork, frame, wheels, or tires yet. Everything else is ordered, but I have the bulk cost and most important items left.

    The Stan's Arch EX Hope Pro 2 definitely seem like a better option for wheel set and appear to be a good amount lighter than the Flow EX. I do like that fork, but was thinking about getting a 120 instead. Undecided on that.

    The handlebar, stem, seatpost are all Easton instead of Nukeproof, but they appear to be nice. Gonna get the frame and fork next. Main concern is doing the shift and brake setup/cables for the first time.

    Thanks again!

  13. #1213
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    544
    I had great experience with the Revelation RCT3 140mm, which can be dropped down to 120mm with spacers. I'd be surprised if the RLT as noted above wasn't the same so it's worth confirming and considering.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  14. #1214
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I had great experience with the Revelation RCT3 140mm, which can be dropped down to 120mm with spacers. I'd be surprised if the RLT as noted above wasn't the same so it's worth confirming and considering.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
    I think he may have actually meant the RCT3. I looked at the website and at that price point and found the RCT3 for that exact price. RockShox Revelation RCT3 29" Dual Air 1.5" Taper 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles

    I do have a question on the fork and wheels I order. That fork has a 20mm Maxle Lt thruaxle. Do I need to make sure the front tire I gets supports one of those? Does the honzo even support that up front? Also, make sure the rear supports the 142x12?

  15. #1215
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    I do have a question on the fork and wheels I order. That fork has a 20mm Maxle Lt thruaxle. Do I need to make sure the front tire I gets supports one of those? Does the honzo even support that up front? Also, make sure the rear supports the 142x12?
    Not entirely sure what you mean, the 20mm axle has to do with the hub in the front wheel. Most major brands allow the use of 20mm axles.

    The rear of the 2013 and onwards is 142x12mm. The 2012 can take an adapter afaik.

  16. #1216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    544
    Yep, the axle size is a variable between fork and hub, and nothing to do with the frame. That Rev RCT3 is a tapered fork, and the Honzo's 44mm straight tube ht will accept it.

    The Hope Flow EX combo from Cycle Sports comes 20mm stock up front, but 135 QR for the rear. You'll need the 142mm Thru Axle conversion in this link to convert the rear. They're simply end caps that replace the QR endcaps. Just like the fork comes with a Maxle, the more recent Honzos come with the rear Maxle.

    Hope Pro2 Evo Rear Hub Axle Conversion Kits | Merlin Cycles

  17. #1217
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    I think he may have actually meant the RCT3. I looked at the website and at that price point and found the RCT3 for that exact price. RockShox Revelation RCT3 29" Dual Air 1.5" Taper 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Yup, typo on my part. I had it confused with my old Revelation that I first bought for my Canfield Yelli build (that never happened) and it was a custom one-off Revelation RLT done by SRAM for a Maxxis employee who I bought it from. Basically the same thing really lol.

    And good call with the Arch EX. With your weight, you should be good to go there.
    konahonzo

  18. #1218
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Thanks everybody for the advice and help! I ordered the wheels today. I plan to order the fork and frame hopefully tomorrow. I have 2 people coming to look at my '11 Fuel EX 8, so hopefully it sells and I can order the parts and get to work.

    Will provide pictures of the build when complete. Thanks!

  19. #1219
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    544
    If you went with the Arch Ex at CycleSports it comes with a 15mm front instead of 20mm that comes with the Flow EX. You can email them if you need the 20mm end caps and they'll swap it out. FWIW, I'm a lightweight at under 150lbs and still went with a Flow EX mainly because of the much wider rim. The weight difference was I think less than 0.3lbs total, which really isn't much on this type of bike in my opinion.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  20. #1220
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    If you went with the Arch Ex at CycleSports it comes with a 15mm front instead of 20mm that comes with the Flow EX. You can email them if you need the 20mm end caps and they'll swap it out. FWIW, I'm a lightweight at under 150lbs and still went with a Flow EX mainly because of the much wider rim. The weight difference was I think less than 0.3lbs total, which really isn't much on this type of bike in my opinion.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

    You just saved me! I emailed them and they were able to include the 20mm converter with my shipment right before it left. Thanks!

    Everything has now been ordered. Now the annoying part... waiting. Surprising the frame takes 5-7 days just to actually ship!

  21. #1221
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I had great experience with the Revelation RCT3 140mm, which can be dropped down to 120mm with spacers. I'd be surprised if the RLT as noted above wasn't the same so it's worth confirming and considering.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
    This fork I know has the option to go 120, 130, and 140. I initially was deciding between a 120 and 140 fork... would it be a good idea to split the difference and set this fork up 130?

    Just wasnt sure if that would throw off the geometry of the bike at at al.

    Thanks.

  22. #1222
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    Where did you order the frame from? I wouldn't be surprised if you receive the stuff from UK first. As for the fork, yes, you can split the difference. Just install a 10mm All-travel spacer from SRAM.
    konahonzo

  23. #1223
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    642
    Did you wind up ordering the RCT3 from CRC? If so, try the bike out at 140mm. You always add spacers later and it's one less thing to do while you build your bike. The consensus from this thread is the bike is great at 140mm. Maybe if I service my fork myself I might drop it just to see the difference but it rides awesome right now.

  24. #1224
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Did you wind up ordering the RCT3 from CRC? If so, try the bike out at 140mm. You always add spacers later and it's one less thing to do while you build your bike. The consensus from this thread is the bike is great at 140mm. Maybe if I service my fork myself I might drop it just to see the difference but it rides awesome right now.
    Yes I ordered the '12 RCT3 from CRC. I'll probably do as you say and just leave it at 140 for now. Just thought it may be a bit much and might gain some climbing ability going down to 130 or 120. I'll test it out though if I can just adjust later.

    @eurospek - I ordered frame from Bikeman.com, as it was literally the only site that had the small frame in stock. Said it may take 2-3 days to ship, but could also take up to 5-7. A long wait for somebody who's patience isnt exactly a strong suit =P

  25. #1225
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    544
    I just posted a 10% coupon code for CRC, too. "USDNOV" It would knock off another $47 or so off that Revelation. Maybe you can call in to apply the code, or just cancel and reorder. +1 on running it at 140. It takes some adjustment on body positioning during the steep climbs, but totally worth it on the downs. First few rides, I too thought about dropping it down to 120, but once I adjusted, it was all smiles from there.

    oh, and I'm going to bet the wheelset comes in first. It took an amazing 2 days from the UK to SoCal. Left on the 16th, arrived on the 18th.

  26. #1226
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mathoss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    60
    ...
    Last edited by mathoss; 11-19-2013 at 06:10 PM.

  27. #1227
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    642
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I just posted a 10% coupon code for CRC, too. "USDNOV" It would knock off another $47 or so off that Revelation. Maybe you can call in to apply the code, or just cancel and reorder.
    I emailed CRC after I received my fork and they still retro'd their current coupon code they had at the time. They did not refund the difference in the day to day price because of the rate conversion though. I decided $6 wasn't worth arguing over after they gave me the coupon.

  28. #1228
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    Quote Originally Posted by HonzoTom View Post
    Looking for an 2012 18" Honzo frame, been riding a large 2013 for some time but I want something a bit smaller and more nimble for chucking around, can anyone help me out?
    2012 Kona Honzo Frame 18" Brand New | eBay
    konahonzo

  29. #1229
    mtbr member
    Reputation: alshead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    1,560

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by mathoss View Post
    This one is for sale... if someone is intesrest..
    Size? Sorry- I can't figure out how to pm via tapatalk.

    Did they change the sizing? I rode a 2013 in small and it was a good fit. Will that geo be the same in the 2012? 2014?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  30. #1230
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Finished Ordering Parts. Here will be the build:

    Small Frame
    2012 RS Revalation RCT3 Fork 140mm
    Crane Creek 40 Headset
    Easton EA70 Handlebar and Easton Haven Stem
    Race Face Half Nelson Lock on Grips
    Stan's Arch EX 29 Wheels with Hope 2 Hubs
    Maxxis Ardent 29 Tubeless tire setup
    Zee Rear Derailer and 10 speed shifter
    Shimano HG81 10 speed chain
    RaceFace Wide/Narrow Chainring - 10 speed
    RaceFace EX Crank
    Shimano XT Ice Tech M785 Hydraulic Brakes
    XTR Ice Tech Rotors (180mm and 160mm)
    Shimano XTR resin brake pads
    Salsa Pro Moto 2 seatpost
    WTB Saddle


    Can't wait till this thing is done. Gonna be a bit of a frankenstein

  31. #1231
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Remember to get the right zee derailleur to match the cassette you're using, they only come in two variations. I'm getting 11-36 for my build. You can mate that up with an XT shifter if the Zee or SLX isn't up to par for you.

    If you can wing it Kind Shock has a nice lever operated dropperpost for about $115. Makes alot of difference going down.

  32. #1232
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Remember to get the right zee derailleur to match the cassette you're using, they only come in two variations. I'm getting 11-36 for my build. You can mate that up with an XT shifter if the Zee or SLX isn't up to par for you.

    If you can wing it Kind Shock has a nice lever operated dropperpost for about $115. Makes alot of difference going down.
    Thanks, and yes I did. I went 11-36 as well.

    Anybody have pedal recommendations? I've been riding Clipless Shimano M52's for the last 3-4 years or so, but am contemplating possibly going back to platform. I guess I can probably switch the pedals out depending on what trail I ride (tech vs xc type singletrack), but wondered if anybody had feedback for what they like on this bike?

    Thanks.

  33. #1233
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    44
    I decided to join the Honzo bandwagon...

    I scored a 2013 XL Honzo frame from eBay. It is on its way to me as I write.

    I have ordered the following parts for it:

    RockShox Revelation RCT3 Dual Air 140 mm 20mm (and as a spare a RockShox Revelation RL Dual Air 130 mm 20mm, going to do a lot of winter riding in -5...-20 F, want some redundancy in case of fork failure)
    Truvativ Descendant 36T 175 mm cranks (plus a more realistic 32T chainring)
    SRAM GXP bottom bracket
    WTB Frequency i-23 rims, SRAM X9 hubs (20mm front, 142x12 rear)
    XT Shadow 9 spd rear derailleur (chose 9 spd for the thicker, more robust chain)
    XT 9 spd shifter pod
    XT 11-34 cassette
    3T Doric Pro Inline seat post (31.6mm x 400mm)
    WTB SST Racing saddle (I love the down turned nose, does not catch the pants)
    Continental Rubber Queen 2.2" Tyres, folding
    Nukeproof Warhead 44IETS headset
    Crank Brothers Iodine 1 65mm stem (and just in case a shorter Kore B-52 K34 Stem 50 mm)
    Answer Pro Taper XC Trail Riser Bar 685mm 13mm rise
    Hayes Stroker Gram brakes, 203/160 rotors
    WTB Moto-X grips
    XT HG93 9 spd chain
    Truvativ bashguard
    Shimano M530 pedals

    The cost of the parts ordered online and estimated work for building the wheels all comes together at €2140/$2850, with one suspension fork and one stem.

    Total weight estimate based on manufacturer specifications and various forum postings comes to 13,9 kg/30,6 lbs.

    This will be my winter commuter and summer trail machine. No mountains where I live, unfortunately.

    I am 6'3" and the XL frame is probably the best for me. I just bought a Cannondale F29 AL 1 in XL and it is just the right size. My 1990s Marin is 21" and Cannondale M800 is 22" so I am definitely in the XL territory.

    I will post photos as the build is done, in a month or so.
    Last edited by sasu; 11-17-2013 at 03:26 AM. Reason: added details

  34. #1234
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Isn't 32t max?

  35. #1235
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    44
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Isn't 32t max?
    Depends on your strength and conditioning. :-)

    Seriously, though, I hope the 36T chainring will fit as I plan to use it on my urban commute. I have seen 36T builds in this thread.

  36. #1236
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Oh ok, I read somewhere that 32t was largest one possible to clear on the frame. Happy to hear I'm wrong since I can use my 34t then.

  37. #1237
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Anybody know if bottom bracket is 68 or 73? I didn't see it on the site and wondering where I need to put spacers. If its a 68 I put 1 spacer on each site right? Its a race face bb.

  38. #1238
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    73mm
    konahonzo

  39. #1239
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Anybody use an Ikon on the back? I was thinking of running a 2.25 Ikon on back for some better rolling resistance, but wanted to get any feedback first. Still gonna use the Ardent 2.4 up front.

  40. #1240
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    642
    I use a Ikon 2.35 for a rear tire. It pairs well with the 2.4 Ardent up front. It is nearly the same size as the Ardent as well. It has a deeper tread pattern than the 2.2 also.

  41. #1241
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Oh wow, i didnt think the 2.35 would fit. Ok I think I will go with that one as well. Thanks!

  42. #1242
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    44
    I got the 2013 XL frame today. It is beautiful!

    I will take it to the LBS in a couple of days to have the bottom bracket threads chased and the head tube blueprinted, just in case.

    The components are all in the mail, it is a looong wait...

    My wife is not against this build, but she will fly to Milan to buy herself a fur coat that will cost as much as a few Honzos. Just to balance the family budget.

  43. #1243
    Chronic 1st-timer
    Reputation: lubes17319's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,351
    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Oh wow, i didnt think the 2.35 would fit. Ok I think I will go with that one as well. Thanks!
    Been using WTB Dissent 2.5" since day 1.
    Very tight, but they go.
    Trailwrecker at large

  44. #1244
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Hmm... I received my frame from Bikeman and it did not come with the rear 142x12 Maxle. My LBS shop said the Frame's usually came with these. I am going to have to purchase one online and they are around $70.

    Is it correct that the frame is supposed to come with this? The bikeman website has no specifications for what should be included, but I find it odd I would get the frame without this piece if it's supposed to be there.

  45. #1245
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    44
    My 2013 frame came with the rear Maxle. It was in a plastic bag taped to the top tube.

  46. #1246
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Mine came with one too.

  47. #1247
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mvallejo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    299
    Just talked to Bikeman who already talked to Kona about this and apparently the 2014 frames dont come with one.

    Awesome. =(

  48. #1248
    mtbr member
    Reputation: beer_coffee_water's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    642
    MV, have you tried to contact Kona directly to verify what Bikeman said? Bikeman seems like a good operation but at that price I would want to make sure myself.
    Last edited by beer_coffee_water; 11-23-2013 at 12:10 PM.

  49. #1249
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    1,394
    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Just talked to Bikeman who already talked to Kona about this and apparently the 2014 frames dont come with one.

    Awesome. =(
    That's really weird.. They don't come with wheelsets either most times so essentially it's just another way to squeeze money out of the consumer.

  50. #1250
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,458
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    That's really weird.. They don't come with wheelsets either most times so essentially it's just another way to squeeze money out of the consumer.
    Yeah, because Maxles usually come with the frame.
    konahonzo

Similar Threads

  1. Post your ETSX builds
    By Shark in forum Rocky Mountain
    Replies: 129
    Last Post: 07-22-2016, 07:23 PM
  2. Post your Practical Builds
    By hans-solo in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 02-23-2009, 09:13 AM
  3. Custom Builds Thread
    By jncarpenter in forum Turner
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 05-22-2008, 03:33 PM
  4. post your 7" travel under 40 lbs builds
    By dusthuffer in forum Downhill - Freeride
    Replies: 99
    Last Post: 05-14-2008, 09:45 AM
  5. XCL Build thread X Post
    By DirtDad in forum Custom Builders & Other Manufacturers
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-19-2006, 10:24 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •