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  1. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvan View Post
    I will check but I think it's more of an alignment problem between the chain guide pulley and lower der. Pulley. It's creating a cross-chaining effect. I tried rotating the guide plate and adj the B tension screw on der but didn't help much. If the guide pulley was closer to the chainring it would be better, I have to see if there is any adjustment for it. This is my first chain guide and I already hate it
    Know what you mean. I'm not fond of chainguides if they include drag, either. Right now I'm running my HonZo in SS mode but when I go 1x10 later this spring, I'll use an outside bash plus a Jump Stop. If you're a gnar hammer, my less than industrial strength system won't do, but if you're primarily a trail rider, it's another option.

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  2. #552
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    FWIW and for future riders looking to upgrade, setting up the MRP Lopes SL was quite easy. No rubbing in any gear (12-36 spread, SS derailleur and 32T up front). Definitely recommended!
    konahonzo

  3. #553
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    I know it has been discussed a couple of times already but I'm not sure which frame size to go for.

    I am 5ft 7 and currently ride a 17.5" Trek Marlin and find it a great fit. That has an effective TT of 23.7". I'm not sure whether to go with the 24" TT of the size 18" Honzo as I would be running a shorter stem. Or should I go for the 16" which I feel might be a bit cramped. I would try a demo bike but according to the Kona website there are none in the UK, closest is the Netherlands. I might send them an email and see.

  4. #554
    FM
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    Max. it really depends on how you like your bikes to handle.
    I bought my small from Stick-boy, who is about your height I believe. He went to a medium honzo.
    despite being a bit taller (175cm/5'-9") I prefer small-fitting bikes, especially if they're 29'ers. So the small w/ a 50mm stem feels perfect to me. Playdead's around the same size also on a small.

  5. #555
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    I thought about a medium sized frame for a while until I realized that the Front Center on it was over 30mm more than the small. Most of my other bikes are between 650 and 690 in this dimension.

    As FM correctly points out, it does depend on how you like your bike to handle, but the front center on the medium honzo is significantly longer than the marlin, assuming they didn't change it too much for this year (it still has a 23.7" ett).

    you can make your own decision but here's a bit of background on Front Center (with reflexive link to mtbr forum post): Waltworks Bicycles: Front Center: It Works, *****es

  6. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Yep, I would definitely recommend anyone building up a Honzo from scratch, take the time to do the face/chase/reaming, especially the headtube- and it can be tricky to find a 44mm reamer. Another thing I learned building this bike, the cane creak headsets are probably a lot more tolerant of the head tube being undersize, since their skirts are shorter.
    Asnwer me this, started breaking down my Honzo for maintenance tonight, and the lower Cane Creek 40 headset cartridge bearing popped out just fine. The upper cartridge bearing looks to be seized in the upper headset cup. Figured I'd popped it by tapping it out, but only managed to break the cartridge bearing apart (got the inner race and bearings out), with the outer race of the bearing still seized to the upper headset cup. Soaking it now in PB Blaster but I don't see a way to get a grip on it.

    Easiest solution I see would be just a new $30 CC40 upper headset complete assembly, but was the seizing cause by being underspec'd in size? When I took the fork out, the bearing felt smooth turning.

    (In retrospect, should have left it alone and not wanting to grease between cup and bearing).

    Or did my bearing simply seized up in the cup?
    konahonzo

  7. #557
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    ^ Did you take the entire upper assembly out of the headtube? It may be so hard to get out because of the force of the press-fit into the headtube on the bearing cup.

    I would try to take the entire upper cup out and hit it with the heatgun to try and expand things a little bit.

    and yeah, you should have just left if alone if it was turning fine.

  8. #558
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    Nope, didn't take anything out. Spoke with my LBS, they might be able to help they said, I'll clean up the frame today and swing on by tomorrow. Worst case scenario is I'll be out $30 for a new upper assembly, oh well.
    konahonzo

  9. #559
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    ^ Did you take the entire upper assembly out of the headtube? It may be so hard to get out because of the force of the press-fit into the headtube on the bearing cup.
    Thats the thing... should it make any difference?
    With the cane creek headsets I had on other bikes, you could easily remove the bearings from the cups by hand, while the cups were still in the frame (slip fit).

    Another thing I realized with my headset saga... the lower bearing can be largely unaffected by head tube tolerances, since the bearing is external. The upper is where you feel it, since with zerostack, the bearing gets squeezed if the headtube is undersize.

    Eurospek, since it's cheap, I'd just replace the whole upper assembly... but measure the headtube before pressing it in. If it's under 43.7 I'd have it reamed.
    Good luck & keep us posted!

  10. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Thats the thing... should it make any difference?
    With the cane creek headsets I had on other bikes, you could easily remove the bearings from the cups by hand, while the cups were still in the frame (slip fit).

    You are right it shouldn't matter at all if the headtube is within the proper tolerances for the press fit. If the headtube is much under 43.7mm like you said it will squeeze the headset cup and probably make the bearing hard to get out like Eurospek is experiencing. That's the only thing I can figure that would make the outer race of that bearing hard to remove.

    Euro, How hard did the upper cup go in when you pressed in the upper assembly?

  11. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    You are right it shouldn't matter at all if the headtube is within the proper tolerances for the press fit. If the headtube is much under 43.7mm like you said it will squeeze the headset cup and probably make the bearing hard to get out like Eurospek is experiencing. That's the only thing I can figure that would make the outer race of that bearing hard to remove.

    Euro, How hard did the upper cup go in when you pressed in the upper assembly?
    Well the first upper assembly ended up being smashed up a bit on the lip, but I chalked that up to the novice guy pressing it in at the LBS. They were apologetic and replaced it with a whole new assembly without questions. Second assembly went it just fine, and when I was first building it last year, the upper bearing went it fine, sure it was harder to pop out than the bottom but it was still coming out without problem.

    I'm thinking it's just seized up (I had a light coating of grease between cup and bearing) but next time I'm using some anti-seize paste instead. I'm thinking that the headtube can't be undersized, since the bearing was turning smooth by hand and never had problems when the fork was installed.
    konahonzo

  12. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Asnwer me this ... Figured I'd popped it by tapping it out, but only managed to break the cartridge bearing apart (got the inner race and bearings out), with the outer race of the bearing still seized to the upper headset cup.
    Or did my bearing simply seized up in the cup?
    Did you use the proper tool to tap the cup out by the skirt (i.e. a screwdriver or one of those flared pieces of pipe park sells), or did you just bash on the inner race of the headset bearing?

    If it's the latter then, yes, you should have just left it alone.

  13. #563
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    My Honzo

    Bit of a frankenbike at the moment. Had to pinch some parts off my XC bike, but it's otherwise done until those parts arrive and I can swap back.

    - 2012 large (20) Honzo set up single speed
    - X9 cranks with spiderless chainring - 32/20
    - 2013 Fox 120 CTD FIT (wanted black, couldn't get it)
    - Elixer on one side, XO brake on the other
    - Easton Haven bars - 711mm
    - Thomson Elite seat post
    - Thomson Elite 50mm stem
    - WTB Silverado saddle
    - XT pedals
    - Mavic Crossmaxx wheels
    - WTB Weirwolf 2.55 front, Bronson rear

    Weighs in at 26.88 pounds with pedals and cage

    After my first ride I'm glad I invested in this build. This bike climbs really well and hauls the mail downhill. Incredibly nimble and not the least bit twitchy downhill.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-1-.jpg  


  14. #564
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    ^this is basically what I'm aiming for, except in small & with a set of hand-built wheels. Glad to hear it's a winner.

  15. #565
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    You won't be disappointed. And from what I've read the small is much lighter, so you should be able to get it under 26 pounds.

    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    ^this is basically what I'm aiming for, except in small & with a set of hand-built wheels. Glad to hear it's a winner.

  16. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Good luck & keep us posted!
    Got back from the LBS today, and first my tech wasn't able to grab the outer race from the cup, he then removed the whole upper assembly from the frame and the bearing race fell out of the cup. He measured the headtube and it's ever so slightly out of spec (really miniscule numbers from he told me). No 44mm reamer on hand yet ($40 btw to ream out top and bottom of headtube), but for the time being, he reinstalled the upper cup, rotated it a bit from the original orientation, and even had a spare new CC40 upper bearing on hand for me to use.

    I'm going to reinstall it, use some anti-seize between the bearings and cups and run another season. When he'll get the reamer in the shop, I'll probably buy a new CC40 headset and get it properly reamed out. Overall, spent $20 and I'm riding again.
    konahonzo

  17. #567
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    Got my Honzo built up:

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo_shop.jpg

    The important stuff:
    Fox 29 Float 34 fork
    X.9 type 2 rear der
    SLX cranks with 32T chainring
    11-36 cassette
    X.0 10sp twist shifter
    Kona flat pedals
    XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
    EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
    no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

    Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

    Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.

  18. #568
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    side view

    nothing new excpet a new cog, now running 36:18.

  19. #569
    meatier showers
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    Simple. Clean. Nice.

    =S
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    you wanted to be.

    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  20. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSBiker View Post
    Got my Honzo built up:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honzo_shop.jpg 
Views:	1254 
Size:	160.0 KB 
ID:	767529

    The important stuff:
    Fox 29 Float 34 fork
    X.9 type 2 rear der
    SLX cranks with 32T chainring
    11-36 cassette
    X.0 10sp twist shifter
    Kona flat pedals
    XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
    EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
    no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

    Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

    Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.
    Nice! Is that a medium?

  21. #571
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSBiker View Post
    Got my Honzo built up:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honzo_shop.jpg 
Views:	1254 
Size:	160.0 KB 
ID:	767529
    I do like those old style decals and paint scheme.

  22. #572
    meatier showers
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSBiker View Post
    Got my Honzo built up:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honzo_shop.jpg 
Views:	1254 
Size:	160.0 KB 
ID:	767529

    The important stuff:
    Fox 29 Float 34 fork
    X.9 type 2 rear der
    SLX cranks with 32T chainring
    11-36 cassette
    X.0 10sp twist shifter
    Kona flat pedals
    XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
    EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
    no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

    Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

    Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.
    Nice looking sled. I'm running mine SS at the moment but will put gears on it in a couple months. I don't intend to utilize the stock chainguide. From your photo, it looks like you're not employing any type of chain management device. Are you? I was thinking of using a Jump Stop (inside) and a bash guard outer. Yours looks really clean without the clutter. How's it going? You hit stuff? What's the travel on your fork? Thanks.

    --sParty
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    you wanted to be.

    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  23. #573
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    fyi:


    It's a Rubberqueen in 2,2" (which is apparently similiar to the Mountain King in 2,4"). Im looking forward to the new Maxxis tires, especially the Highroller 2,3".

  24. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by squads View Post
    Nice! Is that a medium?
    Yep. I ride 19" frames in the XC Konas I've had so this fits great.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    Nice looking sled. I'm running mine SS at the moment but will put gears on it in a couple months. I don't intend to utilize the stock chainguide. From your photo, it looks like you're not employing any type of chain management device. Are you? I was thinking of using a Jump Stop (inside) and a bash guard outer. Yours looks really clean without the clutter. How's it going? You hit stuff? What's the travel on your fork? Thanks.

    --sParty
    Yeah, no chainguide, just the type 2 rear derailleur doing the work. I've done a few bumpy rides so far, no issues with chaindrop yet. I really think it will be fine with the extra tension the Type 2 provides. Probably gonna go for a med cage at some point though, just had this one lying around from when I went from triple to double on my XC bike.

    Fork is the 140mm model, it's a great model. I really like the DTC settings now that I've had some time with the bike.

  25. #575
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    So, first post here. I've been researching for some weeks about what bike to buy, I want to get back into biking properly. I used to ride a Trek 6500, an XC bike which I never felt really comfortable on. After much browsing, going to bike dealers, learning about different geometries and equipment, I decided to buy a Kona Honzo (pretty bummed that the 2013 model doesn't have the awesome matte blue finish ).

    To further complicate matters, I want to build this bike myself (first time), so I'm only buying the frame, Šnd I'm gonna try singlespeed. I've read this entire thread (and others) the last week so I'm pretty up to date about different components to use etc, but I don't find much information about what parts are needed to set this bike up as SS?

    Ideally, I would like a front crank/ring that I can keep when I want to switch to gears, without installing a chain guide. Something like an SRAM XX1 (to which I would mate a x9 type 2 rear derailleur), but preferably a bit cheaper.

    Also the rear hub, not to sure what to look for, I don't quite understand the difference between a freewheel and a casette hub. And as I understand it's difficult to find a 142x12 freewheel hub?

    I'm going to my LBS for ordering the frame tomorrow, so I will ask him these questions too, but I like to be prepared as in the past I've been suckered into buying some shitty components for my commuter as the LBS just wanted to sell the stuff he had laying around.

    Any other tips are welcome too!

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