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  1. #1001
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    A new addition.

    I picked up a KS Lev 150 to swap with my Reverb. The Reverb is going to my wife's HT.
    I've only had one ride so far with the Lev. And it works as advertised.
    The extra inch of drop is very noticeable in having the seat further out of the way. I kinda had buyer's regret because I started thinking that 1 inch wasn't worth the price. But that thought went away the moment I dropped the post down for the first time while out on my ride.
    It definitely is worth it!

    I guess riding the Reverb and only having 125mm of drop had me used to riding with seat just a little too high when dropped to really feel comfortable to fully send drops and jumps.
    Now with the seat an inch lower I feel that it is solidly out of the way not to be worried about knocking it or getting caught on it when sending it.
    It's only a small difference in height, measurement/number wise, but it is a surprising change when actually riding the bike.

    I also finally got my ChargerPro rear wheel up and running. SunRinglé sent me parts for warranty of the freehub but more issues arose and they eventually sent me an entire new hub.
    I unlaced the old hub and relaced the new hub using the original spokes and rim.
    I didn't do too bad of a job if I do say so myself! Considering I don't have use of a truing stand. I used my frame, fingers and eyeballs to true the wheel.

    And, I tried to set up my tires tubeless. It didn't work.
    I've just recently set my park bike up tubeless on Spank Spike Race28 wheels. It was my first time going tubeless and it was a breeze to set those wheels/tires up. I had no trouble using just a floor pump to get the beads to seat and hold air.
    I thought with that experience under my belt that setting up rims that are made specifically by NoTubes and tubeless specific tires it would be a breeze.
    Uh, nope.
    After a while of struggling to get the tires to try and kinda sorta hold air to seat the beads and no luck I went back to tubes.
    I don't have ready access to a air compressor and I'm not about to go to the only gas station in town and pay to use their air compressor.
    I find it ironic that the rims and tires I set up tubeless aren't tubeless specific and they set up super easy. Whereas the tubeless ready rims and tires didn't set up at all!
    Oh well.

    I'm now running the Hans Dampf on the back as well. I changed out the Ardent 2.4 for the HD. The HD is definitely a squeeze but there is room. I have to make sure my wheel stays true so not to get any rub on the frame. Again I've impressed myself with my wheel build to end up with a true wheel and no rub from a large tire!


    Here's a couple of pics with the seat at pedal height and at fun height.




  2. #1002
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    @hjulier,
    Is your seat at full pedal height?
    The reason I'm asking is I'm 6'6" as well and I run my Reverb with substantially more post showing.
    Unless you have really short legs and a crazy long torso then carry on as you were.

    Or maybe does your 22L frame really have a 22" seat tube?
    I was led to believe that the 20R and 20L frame sizes had the same ST length, 20". It was just the TT measurement that was different between the two sizes. And, that the 20L came with a 22 size sticker on the frame.

    Just curious.
    Oops, meant to write 20 long.

    I'm 6'5" with a 35 ish inseam... nothing too goofy about my proportions. The reverb is indeed at full height. You're probably just a little taller and like your seat a little higher! I could run mine higher, but find it put too much strain on my neck and hands. I always go for my handlebars just above my saddle height.

    Eventually I will post some more pictures that show the bike on level ground.

  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    I received my Zee rear der. and shifter yesterday. Was going to mount it this weekend with the XX1 chainring up front. Atm I'm running SS with a 32t Wolftooth direct mount on my XX1 cranks. I thought the Wolftooth would not be fit to run 1x10 without chainguide, but apparently it does? Or is there a difference between your chainring and my direct mount (Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks | wolftoothcomponents.com)?
    Cause I'd prefer to keep using the Wolftooth one instead of the XX1, it looks a lot nicer.
    Nice bike btw!
    Thanks!

    No difference save for how the ring mounts. Your Wolf Tooth is indeed fit to be run without a chainquide. Inspecting the link you posted reveals that it's got wide/narrow teeth... they all do I think!

    ***

    Anyone have any ride time on Hans Dampfs? Thinking of leveling up to them for a trip to Colorado. Seems like a better mud tire too than my current bronson/weirwolf setup.

  4. #1004
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    Thanks, yeah I figured out the same. Installed my derailleur yesterday, today probably the shifter and then it's riding time

  5. #1005
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    My Honzo is still the stock 2013 build except I added my old Gravity Dropper seatpost. I'm not happy with the stock chainguide, it always rubs more than I would like at both extremes. I have been running 1x9/1x10 on my full suspension bikes for years but this my first hardtail with that setup. I don't have the clutch rear derailleur, so what is the minimum chain guide setup I can get away with? Is something like the Blackspire Stinger enough by itself, or maybe in combo with the Wolf Tooth chainring? Anyone try the Wolf Tooth ring by itself with a non-clutched rear derailleur?

  6. #1006
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    Can anybody tell me how these bikes perform for XC applications? I know that they're great for DH and for "shreddin'", but I don't hear too much about banging out an 18 miler.

    I'm more interested in the taro, but it's virtually the same frame in aluminum...

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    Can anybody tell me how these bikes perform for XC applications? I know that they're great for DH and for "shreddin'", but I don't hear too much about banging out an 18 miler.

    I'm more interested in the taro, but it's virtually the same frame in aluminum...
    I'll let you know after I ride Durango, Fruita and Aspen on mine in late September. Lots of singletrack climbing and descending.

    I don't see why the Honzo couldn't be used for general XC riding. Sure it's a little slacker than an XC race bike, but if you're not racing....

    With a 120mm fork up front you can gain back some steering quickness (as opposed to those us gentlemen that prefer 140) and you could even move the rear wheel back in the dropouts for more stability though i'm not sure why you'd want to.

  8. #1008
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    It's fine for XC. You may not be as competitive as others on their plastic bikes. As far as the Taro goes... I've never ridden one. I owned a banshee paradox before the honzo. Aluminum may be lighter, but its a rougher ride than steel so put that into consideration. Loooonnggg rides on a stiff aluminum frame could be a bit much for the taint.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  9. #1009
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    Quote Originally Posted by playdead View Post
    It's fine for XC. You may not be as competitive as others on their plastic bikes. As far as the Taro goes... I've never ridden one. I owned a banshee paradox before the honzo. Aluminum may be lighter, but its a rougher ride than steel so put that into consideration. Loooonnggg rides on a stiff aluminum frame could be a bit much for the taint.
    Is the honzo noticeably compliant? I mean the paradox has box stays and is certainly built with stiffness in mind, but the honzo doesn't exactly look like it has pencil stays designed for shock absorption.

  10. #1010
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    True. The Paradox has stiff stays. The honzo's stays are large, but still flex more than aluminum. They don't flex as much as my girlfriend's Niner SIR 9 stays, but you can still notice it.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  11. #1011
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    @RideEverything
    Nice! I like those white rims.
    I'll be saving up for a KS Lev too, good to read that it works so well.
    May I ask what the difference is between the Ardent 2.4 and the HD? Just trying to learn, not criticizing.

  12. #1012
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    Update to my Honzo

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imag0032.jpg

    Update on my bike: I went from an SS setup to a 1x10 Zee setup with an XT 11-36 casette. I kept the Wolftooth up front. I was a bit dissapointed to learn that the shifter isn't I-Spec compatible, while the brakes are. A bit silly I think from Shimano to not make brakes and shifters from the same product line I-Spec compatible. Shifting is great though so far.

    My Renthal Kevlar grips slipped from time to time, so I tightened them but I overdid it...needed to get them off for attaching my shifter, the bolts were so tight that my allen key damaged them so I couldn't losen them anymore..had to drill them out. Luckily I had a set of ESI Chunky grips laying around. I did prefer the feel of the Renthals though, especially on bare hands (when riding street towards/from the trails).

    Now I'm saving up for a KS Lev dropper...

  13. #1013
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    @RideEverything
    Nice! I like those white rims.
    I'll be saving up for a KS Lev too, good to read that it works so well.
    May I ask what the difference is between the Ardent 2.4 and the HD? Just trying to learn, not criticizing.
    Yeah, the white rims were a bit of a vanity purchase for my matchy-matchy colour scheme.
    Regardless, I very much like how they look on the bike with all my other bits and frame colour. They've withstood my hard riding. The back rim has a few dings/dents in it but nothing too serious. Considering that they're a 28H rim and being ridden by a heavy aggressive riding giant they've performed admirably. It's just the freehubs that have been lacking. But that has been the case for pretty much every freehub I've ever ridden. I replace freehubs twice, if not three times in a season.
    My wheel build/spoke tensioning turns out to not have been so spectacular. The wheel developed a solid wobble after a slightly angled landing. Because I'm running the HD there was a ton of tire rub against the frame. I love the Hans Dampf tire but on the Honzo your wheel has to be perfectly straight and tensioned to run that tire without any rub.

    The biggest difference between the HD 2.4 and the Ardent 2.4 is the side knobs, other than the GRIP! The HD side knobs stick out considerably further than on the Ardents. The tires are close to being evenly matched for sidewall width volume. It's just the HD's side knobs stick out that much further.
    Another big difference is that the cornering grip and braking grip is exponentially better on the HD's compared to the Ardents. Although, the Ardents do roll faster on the smoother harder packed trails and on pavement/road.

    I've never had an issue with the Ardents. I just like the HD's better. The Ardent is a great rear tire. I will never ever put an Ardent the front of my bike! In the region I live in there is a serious hate-on for the Ardents front and rear. I understand the hate for running it as a front but totally don't understand the vitriol for the Ardent as a rear. Most of the hate comes from the fact that most of our riding time is spent in mostly damp to wet riding conditions except for about two months during the height of summer (the Ardent performs quite poorly in the wet on roots, rock and off camber stuff - but as a rear I can deal with that). This summer has been exceptionally dry.

    The KS Lev has been working great.
    I've only had one moment of WTF. I had left my bike outside in the direct sun for a couple of hours in my yard and when I got on the bike to ride it the seat wouldn't lower. It took about 20 minutes for it to start working properly. And, there hasn't been any issue with it since.
    I think because of being in the sun for a long time and everything heating up the mechanism stopped working or the air pressure got too high for it to work. I'm just guessing but there you have it.


    @hjulier
    I have a season and a half on the Hans Dampf as a front tire.
    I think they are a great tire for all of the terrain in the regions that I ride in - Whistler, Squamish and Pemberton.
    If you need a visual of the type of terrain that I ride check out this video of the Enduro World Series stop in Whistler. All of the trails outside of the bike park on the Enduro course I ride regularly on my Honzo (the lower part of Stage 1, all of Stages 2,3,4). The HD handles my direction changes, cornering and stopping with ease.
    My Revelation fork, on the other hand, doesn't really do any of that with ease!
    The little time that I had with it on as a rear tire the HD was a welcome change to the Ardent. Fantastic grip! Just make sure your rear wheel is seriously true and tensioned properly as to not get any frame rub from the tire.

    Here's the link to the vid: DirtTV: Crankworx Enduro - NSMB.com Mountain Bike Reviews, News, Photo and Video




    TL;DR version:
    White rims - good
    Ardent 2.4 - okay to good rear tire
    Hans Dampf - good to great tire
    KS Lev 150mm - well worth the purchase price
    Honzo - if you have balls big enough you can ride a lot of gnarly terrain
    Last edited by RideEverything; 08-15-2013 at 10:17 PM.

  14. #1014
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    Thanks for the long explanation!
    I'm running Continental MK 2.2 rear and 2.4 front, but I don't think I could tell the difference if I put on another tire, my riding level is still too noob for that.
    I did already put a wobble on my rear wheel, so I'm glad I have only a 2.2 tire on there, room enough for a slight wobble.

    How do you even destroy a freehub?

  15. #1015
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    How do you even destroy a freehub?
    The way I destroy freehubs is where the pawls insert into the body of the freehub. I distort or crack the body around the insertion point of the pawls so it doesn't spin or doesn't spin freely in the hub shell.
    It is a function of the amount of weight and power that I can put into a pedal stroke. Also the lesser engagement hubs blowup faster on me because of the dead space between dropping the power down on the pedal and the pawls engaging. I find that with the Honzo because it is a single ring up front that it accelerates the damage that I can apply to freehubs.

    Most, if not all, freehub bodies are made of aluminum. Which are relatively "soft".
    What I need is a high engagement steel freehub body. They are out there but most of those types live in the expensive end the bike part world.

  16. #1016
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    You mean something like this?
    DT Swiss Steel Shimano 9/10 Freehub Body > Components > Wheel Goods > Freehub Bodies | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    Isn't cheap, indeed. But wouldn't that still be cheaper as buying 3 alu bodies a season?

  17. #1017
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    The way I destroy freehubs is where the pawls insert into the body of the freehub. I distort or crack the body around the insertion point of the pawls so it doesn't spin or doesn't spin freely in the hub shell.
    It is a function of the amount of weight and power that I can put into a pedal stroke. Also the lesser engagement hubs blowup faster on me because of the dead space between dropping the power down on the pedal and the pawls engaging. I find that with the Honzo because it is a single ring up front that it accelerates the damage that I can apply to freehubs.

    Most, if not all, freehub bodies are made of aluminum. Which are relatively "soft".
    What I need is a high engagement steel freehub body. They are out there but most of those types live in the expensive end the bike part world.
    I have the same problem. Notubes makes a steel freehub that has been working for me so far, but their hubs only have 36 pts of engagement. They cost $70 at notubes.com

  18. #1018
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    Thinking about getting a Honzo. Miss having a 29er. Sold my Raleigh XXIX over the winter. The bike was a large and a bit to small, plus I need some squish in the front. Looking at an XL Honzo. I am 6'3" with a 34" inseam and a 36.5" sleeve. Currently on a Cannondale 140rz full suspension 26". This is a great page. I have enjoyed reading the posts.

  19. #1019
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    If you are looking for a complete build, and willing to buy the 2012 model and online, there is a 38% discount atm: Chain Reaction Cycles | MTB | Road | TRI | Run.
    Lots of tall people here btw with XL Honzo's (myself included, 6'5").

  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    If you are looking for a complete build, and willing to buy the 2012 model and online, there is a 38% discount atm: Chain Reaction Cycles | MTB | Road | TRI | Run.
    Lots of tall people here btw with XL Honzo's (myself included, 6'5").
    That is a great deal. I need to check with my LBS. They maybe able to match that price.

    Thanks

  21. #1021
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I have the same problem. Notubes makes a steel freehub that has been working for me so far, but their hubs only have 36 pts of engagement. They cost $70 at notubes.com
    Would you happen to know if it is possible to use this freehub in a SunRingle hub shell? I don't see any dimensions on either sites to make a comparison.
    I find it funny that there is a weight limit to the Flow EX wheelset. 250lbs. I'm pretty sure I hit that weight with all my gear on and with a full pack with water. I was eyeing those wheels. Maybe I'll have to look elsewhere.

    @eurospek, was it in this thread that I read that you ended up getting a steel SunRingle freehub body? If I remember correctly wasn't it the Abbah freehub?
    If it was those freehubs they seem to have disappeared from the market as an individual item.

    For those of you linking to online shops, I live in Canada, so it is difficult to dodge duty and Custom charges if I order from the States.

  22. #1022
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    For those of you linking to online shops, I live in Canada, so it is difficult to dodge duty and Custom charges if I order from the States.
    That's too bad. I live in Europe and haven't had any issues with supplementary charges when ordering from the States.

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I find it funny that there is a weight limit to the Flow EX wheelset. 250lbs. I'm pretty sure I hit that weight with all my gear on and with a full pack with water. I was eyeing those wheels. Maybe I'll have to look elsewhere.
    I run those, I thought those were the burliest 29ers rims available. Both front and rear already have a slight wobble, as a noob I haven't taken any drops bigger then 1.6feet (50cm). I weigh 200lbs without any gear. Very dissappointed especially since I had my wheels build by hand for $$$ (actually €€€ ).

    Edit: I'm mistaken, I have the regular Flow's
    Edit2: Ok I'm not sure anymore what rims I have I had the decals removed so can't see it easily. But still dissappointed!

  24. #1024
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post

    @eurospek, was it in this thread that I read that you ended up getting a steel SunRingle freehub body? If I remember correctly wasn't it the Abbah freehub?
    If it was those freehubs they seem to have disappeared from the market as an individual item.
    I did. The stock aluminum freehub and even only a 11-34 XT level cassette sounded painful on the climbs. Noise I never heard before on my previous Hope Pro 2 wheelset with same cassette. Plus I needed to move up to the lower spec 12-36 cassette. What I ended up getting was per Sun Ringle's recommendation to move to a steel freehub body. Sun Ringle part number DJ 0889, it's off the Disc Jockey hub, which is labeled XC/Trail and DH use. I just had the freehub apart a couple days ago for cleaning and everything looks great after 2 hard seasons of riding. Insides look exactly the same, same type of pawls used, except now sitting in steel body grooves instead of aluminum. Might be worth checking out if you're really tearing them up so easily.

    Sun Ringle Freehub Body - Disc Jockey 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    konahonzo

  25. #1025
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    I have to share it right now! I rode my Honzo since the last winter... I sold my XC double and planed to buy a new 27.5 when opportunity comes but I just bought a new 26 double cause I got a awesome deal. I really love it after 2 rides but the last weekend, I came back with THE Machine and rode the same trails.... The difference about the feeling of handling, the speed, the climbs and the dhills, the smile ... and the pain ... Was incredible! I just love to share this with you! Long live to the Honzo

  26. #1026
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    Just came home with the 2014 Honzo model this weekend. Changed out the pedals to Speedplay drilliums and hit the trails. The bike is awesome! Yeah it's probably heavy but I'm a big boy so the components are not too bad. I'm more at peace with the Shimano components for the '14 build and of course they are lower level components but they work well. I may upgrade a few things later in time but if anyone decides to pull the trigger on the 2014 model I think you will be very content.

  27. #1027
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I did. The stock aluminum freehub and even only a 11-34 XT level cassette sounded painful on the climbs. Noise I never heard before on my previous Hope Pro 2 wheelset with same cassette. Plus I needed to move up to the lower spec 12-36 cassette. What I ended up getting was per Sun Ringle's recommendation to move to a steel freehub body. Sun Ringle part number DJ 0889, it's off the Disc Jockey hub, which is labeled XC/Trail and DH use. I just had the freehub apart a couple days ago for cleaning and everything looks great after 2 hard seasons of riding. Insides look exactly the same, same type of pawls used, except now sitting in steel body grooves instead of aluminum. Might be worth checking out if you're really tearing them up so easily.

    Sun Ringle Freehub Body - Disc Jockey 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Thanks for the quick response!
    Looking at that freehub you linked to will it work in the hub that comes with the ChargerPro's? Those are the wheels you're running, right?

  28. #1028
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    That's too bad. I live in Europe and haven't had any issues with supplementary charges when ordering from the States.
    I don't always get dinged with the cost of duty. Just sometimes. In my last couple of orders It seems the courier companies are trying to make an extra buck by squeezing the customer at the delivery end.
    Most of the online ordering I do has in the fine print on the sites listing that your initial cost includes all of the duties and custom charges but every now and again I get hit with an extra charge by the courier company when it's dropped at my door.

    I've never order through CRC. I've heard good and bad on the extra charges. From what it sounds like it just depends on what kind of day the Customs agent is having when they process the package as to whether you get charged duty or not.

  29. #1029
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    I run those, I thought those were the burliest 29ers rims available. Both front and rear already have a slight wobble, as a noob I haven't taken any drops bigger then 1.6feet (50cm). I weigh 200lbs without any gear. Very dissappointed especially since I had my wheels build by hand for $$$ (actually €€€ ).

    Edit: I'm mistaken, I have the regular Flow's
    Edit2: Ok I'm not sure anymore what rims I have I had the decals removed so can't see it easily. But still dissappointed!
    Yeah, I was under the impression that they were one of the burliest rims/wheelsets for 29ers. I haven't heard or read anywhere else other than on the NoTubes site about the weight restriction. The only thing that I've come across is that the rims seem to dent easily. But the denting thing I've only read in 2 posts on other mtb sites.
    The Flow EX rims/wheelsets seem to be the shizzle for any burly 29" build.
    I've been looking at burly components because my winter monetary saving project for next summer is to purchase a Banshee Prime. I'm looking to do a full custom build but have a few parts that will be interchangeable between the Honzo and the new bike.

    As to your wobble it might mean that you just need a re-tension of the spokes. Regardless of whether the wheels are machine built or hand built after the initial first few rides on new wheels it is always a good idea to get them re-tensioned.
    That's something that in the past I've neglected to my own peril!

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    Thanks for the quick response!
    Looking at that freehub you linked to will it work in the hub that comes with the ChargerPro's? Those are the wheels you're running, right?
    Good question. I'm running Sun Ringle Charger Experts but I'm sure they are the same freehub across the Charger product line. I doubt they would make a different one for each of the 4 different Charger models (Pro SL, Pro, Expert, Comp). The only thing that was different from the aluminum freehub body was the spacing between the bearings inside the two freehub bodies, the steel freehub had them spaced further apart, and only requiring a small spacer on the axle, twice less the size that of the aluminum freehub.

    What's also interesting is that this freehub is the same thing as the Sun Ringle Demon freehub from their DH wheelsets, so you know it's burly. And it's what my LBS first received by mistake when they ordered mine from Sun-Ringle, me thinking I would be saving time and money vs. buying from CRC.

    Sun Ringle Freehub Body - Demon Rear 12mm 2013 | Chain Reaction Cycles

    PS. I secretly want a flo yellow Prime as well, got a full build in mind, if only Midwest trails called for such a beast of a frame. One of my fav 29er AM FS frames.
    konahonzo

  31. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29er Kid View Post
    Just came home with the 2014 Honzo model this weekend. Changed out the pedals to Speedplay drilliums and hit the trails. The bike is awesome! Yeah it's probably heavy but I'm a big boy so the components are not too bad. I'm more at peace with the Shimano components for the '14 build and of course they are lower level components but they work well. I may upgrade a few things later in time but if anyone decides to pull the trigger on the 2014 model I think you will be very content.
    Post some pics, would love to see some real life pics of that green.
    konahonzo

  32. #1032
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    really curious about the green.....

  33. #1033
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    Found on google image : https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...14895694_o.jpg
    I like it....

  34. #1034
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    Quote Originally Posted by in-vico View Post
    Found on google image : https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...14895694_o.jpg
    I like it....
    Damn, must say I like that better than the 2013 frame. The green with the all black RS fork just works.
    konahonzo

  35. #1035
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    I agree^ despite the fact that I have the 2013

  36. #1036
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    There are pictures on KONA BIKES you know guys, in a lot more detail if you look in gallery.

  37. #1037
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    As to your wobble it might mean that you just need a re-tension of the spokes. Regardless of whether the wheels are machine built or hand built after the initial first few rides on new wheels it is always a good idea to get them re-tensioned.
    That's something that in the past I've neglected to my own peril!
    Yeah I've checked with a friend, he said the same. The wobble is really minor so I'm pretty sure it's the spokes and not the rim itself. I do have a spoke tensioner but not sure how to use it. I think for this I'll just bring my bike the lbs.

  38. #1038
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    The green is looking nice indeed! As with the 2013 model, much better looking on a real picture as opposed to the pics on the kona site. Still prefer the 2013 though, the orange is so nice and flashy

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    reminds me of a army tank. I like the flashy 13' model better I think.

  40. #1040
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Post some pics, would love to see some real life pics of that green.
    Sorry I could not upload the pictures so click on the link below:

    2014 Kona Honzo - dvblue's Photos

  41. #1041
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Damn, must say I like that better than the 2013 frame. The green with the all black RS fork just works.
    That green for some reason just grows on me more everyday. I've had the bike for a week now and that subtle raw look with the green is awesome!

  42. #1042
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    The green is looking nice indeed! As with the 2013 model, much better looking on a real picture as opposed to the pics on the kona site. Still prefer the 2013 though, the orange is so nice and flashy
    Yeah the bike shop had the older model but I wanted the Shimano components so I went with the 2014. I must say when you get the tires and bike dirty with the green color it just looks mean! I'm not say'n the orange is bad at all...

  43. #1043
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    Nice pictures! Weird pedals, are those stock?

  44. #1044
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    Nice pictures! Weird pedals, are those stock?
    Not stock pedals...they are huge pedals because I have size 16 feet and they just feel right

  45. #1045
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    Any advice on wheelset upgrades? I recently sold one of my other bikes and have some extra cash I would like to throw into some new hoops for the Honzo. My bike is a bone stock (with the exception of pedals & reverb) 2013 model. I weight 205-210 fully geared up and ride in Western NC.

  46. #1046
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdjohnson121 View Post
    Any advice on wheelset upgrades?
    Check out Industry Nine's new Enduro wheelset. Made in Asheville.

  47. #1047
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    Have somebody tryed a dual position fork on the Honzo? (Like RS Dual Position, Fox Talas or X-fusion Trace DLA. All have 110-140mm settings.)

    Is the 110mm setting a good match with the Honzo geometry when used on long smooth climbs?

  48. #1048
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    It's a great match....

    For a ton of pedal strikes. I ran my Fox 34 Talas at 110mm and hated it.
    konahonzo

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    So... then I guess that 110mm setting is only usefull when the targeted DH trail is only accessible via a long road climb...?
    Or even on road it dos'nt help much?

  50. #1050
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    It's a great match....

    For a ton of pedal strikes. I ran my Fox 34 Talas at 110mm and hated it.
    Do you run flat pedals or clipped in?


    Quote Originally Posted by in-vico View Post
    So... then I guess that 110mm setting is only usefull when the targeted DH trail is only accessible via a long road climb...?
    Or even on road it dos'nt help much?
    My personal experience is different...

    I run a Fox 34 Float (2012 Air Spring) lowered to 120mm travel - I really prefer the way Honzo handles in all but the steepest downhill terrain (corning is better / attaching technical sections - downhill and flat / body position climbing) compared to when I ran the fork at 140mm.

    I run 180mm cranks, singlespeed (more incidences of "powering through" sections), and rarely clip my pedals (Shimano Clipless) - I ride a lot of rocky and rooty trails (North Shore // PNW).

    -D

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