• 10-26-2012
    noot
    Frame > Wheels. The geo will make a much bigger difference than your wheels, flexy or not.
  • 10-27-2012
    zach349
    Hello Honzo riders

    I am currently thinking about building up a Honzo. I am currently riding a 2010 GF paragon here in Southwester PA. I have a lot of climbing to do at most of the trails in my area with a good amount of descending. I love the idea of more travel up front and a little bit more upright position.

    My concerns: Will I be giving up a lot of climbing ability? Will I be giving up a lot of speed on the rolling "flattish" stuff that we have in my area? Build it with 120mm or 140mm up front?

    6'2 currently on a L paragon. Go for L or XL honzo frame?
  • 10-27-2012
    beer_coffee_water
    Thanks Noot for the quick reply. That is the way I was leaning, to get on a Honzo as quick as I can. Now if I can convince my wife the need of uping my monthly bike budget. :thumbsup: The 2013 colors have really grown on me over the 2012 blue. I think I am going to go for the 16, 23" tt's seem to fit me the best. 5'9" and I am not really happy on the 23.7" tt I am on now.
  • 10-28-2012
    beer_coffee_water
    Double post.
  • 10-28-2012
    noot
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Thanks Noot for the quick reply. That is the way I was leaning, to get on a Honzo as quick as I can. Now if I can convince my wife the need of uping my monthly bike budget. :thumbsup: The 2013 colors have really grown on me over the 2012 blue. I think I am going to go for the 16, 23" tt's seem to fit me the best. 5'9" and I am not really happy on the 23.7" tt I am on now.

    The Honzo was designed with a shorter stem in mind, so if you go with a shorter TT and a shorter stem, it may end up too short.

    And yeah, I hated the new color until I saw it in real life... then I liked it :)
  • 10-29-2012
    eurospek
  • 10-29-2012
    jave-mtr
    Is it my eyes or are the wall thicknesses of 2013 dropouts thinner?
    http://photos.nsmb.com/files/3/6/3/3/8/2013_honzo_2.jpg
  • 10-29-2012
    r1Gel
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Makes me want to paint mine. Found this custom painted Honzo from Japan on flickr tonight. Looks awesome!!!!

    Wow! :eek: :thumbsup: :cool:
  • 11-08-2012
    Hempress
    I really hope Sram moves the XX1 group down the line quickly. Looks sweet!
  • 11-08-2012
    eurospek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jave-mtr View Post
    Is it my eyes or are the wall thicknesses of 2013 dropouts thinner?
    http://photos.nsmb.com/files/3/6/3/3/8/2013_honzo_2.jpg

    Here are 2012 for comparison.

    http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7...abc351cd_o.jpg

    It's a big pic. :D
  • 11-11-2012
    eurospek
  • 11-12-2012
    howard619
    Honzo vs Steely
    So today I rode my brother's Honzo and thought I should share my experience with all you Honzo fans. But first - some background. I'm not new to the 29" world, but I currently ride a 2012 Kona Steely. For those of you who don't know, the Honzo was designed after the Steely and they have similar geometry, with compromises for the differences between 26" and 29" wheels to meet somewhere in the middle. Here are some key stats to compare the 2 bikes (Honzo/Steely)

    HA: 68 vs 67
    BBH: 12.25 both
    CS: 16.3/16.5
    Travel: 120mm/130mm

    So you can see the HA is steeper on the Honzo by a degree, the CS shorter, and travel shorter - all of which brings it closer to the sharper handling 26" Steely, which has more travel and slacker HA to make up for smaller wheels.

    My previous experience was on an Air9. Definitely NOT an AM hardtail, but still a 29. The reason I switched back to 26 is because I felt that I was missing some of the fun factor.

    29 makes a bike more stable in the air, up hill and DH on the trail. It also has better traction, and maintains wheel speed better than 26. All of those characteristics are exactly what riders are looking for when they get a Honzo, but somehow it robs the trail of the fun and excitement I love to ride for.

    There's something about being on the edge, whipping through turns, pumping on the back side of whoops, and a series of Return of the Jedi inspiring tight turns that scream 26 territory.

    But I digress:rolleyes:

    On today's ride I set PRs everywhere I went, with exception of a super tight technical trail with back to back turns, rocks, rail road ties, and drops. To be absolutely honest though, overall I was significantly faster.

    So am I a convert? Not yet, but MAYBE later.
  • 11-14-2012
    eurospek
    Anyone riding with Specialized Purgatory tires? How's the fitment on the rear?
  • 11-19-2012
    scurry4
    Ok, looking for some wheel suggestions again, I posted this in the components forum, but I doubt these wheel suggestion threads get much of a response.

    So, I'm currently on a stock Kona Honzo 2012. This is my first 29'r, and I definitely see some benefits, but really do miss things on my 26. The last 26 I rode was a similar build/geo, so I think ive been able to make a pretty good assessment of what I do and dont like about the niner. The glaring issue is the playfullness, I ride flat pedals, short stem wide bars and throwing the bike around in the air, and in corners doesnt seem to be as fun. I actually feel like I have a lot of trouble even getting the bike sideways at all now.

    This still under weighs the benefits to me at the moment though, but this could wear off a bit, and I could want to be more fun again. I want to make sure I give this a real shot though, and am thinking the build could have something to with this.

    The wheels seem quite heavy, this is my setup:
    Front Hub - Formula Disc
    Rear Hub - Shimano M475 Disc
    Spokes - Stainless 14g
    Rims - WTB FX 23
    Tires - Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front 2.25 rear with tubes

    I was thinking less rotation mass might help this bike a lot? especially with the big hoops? How much difference does 100g a rim really make? I would like to go tubeless and would consider a tire change as well.

    My thoughts are Stans Flow's? paired to ....? I would like to keep the cost relatively low, but it might be a good time to build up a good custom wheel set. Are there any great deals out there at the moment? Is it really worth dropping 600+ or will a $300 wheelset make a big difference?

    Keep in mind, I'm 6'4" 220 lbs, riding rocky and rooty stuff in new england.

    -Sean
  • 11-19-2012
    scurry4
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by zach349 View Post
    Hello Honzo riders

    I am currently thinking about building up a Honzo. I am currently riding a 2010 GF paragon here in Southwester PA. I have a lot of climbing to do at most of the trails in my area with a good amount of descending. I love the idea of more travel up front and a little bit more upright position.

    My concerns: Will I be giving up a lot of climbing ability? Will I be giving up a lot of speed on the rolling "flattish" stuff that we have in my area? Build it with 120mm or 140mm up front?

    6'2 currently on a L paragon. Go for L or XL honzo frame?

    I would go L, i'm 6'4" on the XL, and I like it, but anything lionger than a 50mm stem feels super long on it. Depends on your proportions though and the riding. I could see the L working better on the tighter stuff around here, but the XL is awesome at times as well, especially running such a short stem.
  • 11-19-2012
    scurry4
    BTW, another trashed freehub body on the stock 12' wheelset. Absolutely ridiculous. I'm going to try one of the XT freehub bodies on there for now (until I pick and build up a new wheelset).
  • 11-19-2012
    carabao
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Ok, looking for some wheel suggestions again, I posted this in the components forum, but I doubt these wheel suggestion threads get much of a response.

    So, I'm currently on a stock Kona Honzo 2012. This is my first 29'r, and I definitely see some benefits, but really do miss things on my 26. The last 26 I rode was a similar build/geo, so I think ive been able to make a pretty good assessment of what I do and dont like about the niner. The glaring issue is the playfullness, I ride flat pedals, short stem wide bars and throwing the bike around in the air, and in corners doesnt seem to be as fun. I actually feel like I have a lot of trouble even getting the bike sideways at all now.

    This still under weighs the benefits to me at the moment though, but this could wear off a bit, and I could want to be more fun again. I want to make sure I give this a real shot though, and am thinking the build could have something to with this.

    The wheels seem quite heavy, this is my setup:
    Front Hub - Formula Disc
    Rear Hub - Shimano M475 Disc
    Spokes - Stainless 14g
    Rims - WTB FX 23
    Tires - Maxxis Ardent 2.4 front 2.25 rear with tubes

    I was thinking less rotation mass might help this bike a lot? especially with the big hoops? How much difference does 100g a rim really make? I would like to go tubeless and would consider a tire change as well.

    My thoughts are Stans Flow's? paired to ....? I would like to keep the cost relatively low, but it might be a good time to build up a good custom wheel set. Are there any great deals out there at the moment? Is it really worth dropping 600+ or will a $300 wheelset make a big difference?

    Keep in mind, I'm 6'4" 220 lbs, riding rocky and rooty stuff in new england.

    -Sean

    If you want some agility back and be able to go sideways (oversteer kinda), get a Fox 34 fork w/ 51mm offset. It changed the way my bike handled a lot. I started out at 120mm, went to 130mm, and I'm back to 120mm. I prefer 120mm, but at 130 drops and steep descents were easier.
  • 11-19-2012
    scurry4
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    If you want some agility back and be able to go sideways (oversteer kinda), get a Fox 34 fork w/ 51mm offset. It changed the way my bike handled a lot. I started out at 120mm, went to 130mm, and I'm back to 120mm. I prefer 120mm, but at 130 drops and steep descents were easier.

    I guess thats kind of what I mean, and I could imagine that to make a difference for me, but it my head, I'm thinking its the rotational mass, keeping everything going straight. I'm more talking about in the air. We have this one rock on my normal loop, that I use as a way of judging how a trail bike feels in the air, and this just doesnt feel right.

    This could be going back to the whole bottom bracket drop issue. I really want to test the charge bikes frame. Complete other end of the geo (steeper/higher) for the same task..
  • 11-19-2012
    carabao
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    I guess thats kind of what I mean, and I could imagine that to make a difference for me, but it my head, I'm thinking its the rotational mass, keeping everything going straight. I'm more talking about in the air. We have this one rock on my normal loop, that I use as a way of judging how a trail bike feels in the air, and this just doesnt feel right.

    This could be going back to the whole bottom bracket drop issue. I really want to test the charge bikes frame. Complete other end of the geo (steeper/higher) for the same task..

    Well the stock wheelset is HEAVY. I run Flow EX's and Hans Dampf front/rear. I'm going to go with a Nobby Nic rear next and that weighs 100 grams less than the Hans. If you were in Socal I'd let you try out my wheelset. I imagine it'd make a huge difference in the air with all the rotational mass spinning and momentum wanting carry you straignt ahead.
  • 11-19-2012
    eurospek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Is it really worth dropping 600+ or will a $300 wheelset make a big difference?
    -Sean

    Try finding a set of Sun Ringle Charger Experts 29er. I spent $300 on mine last year during winter sales and they have been bombproof for me all season long. I'm the same size as yourself and quite hard on my stuff. I had to do more maintenance on my last wheelset (Hope Pro 2 / Mavic EX721, DH-quality wheelset) than on these, and I now take much more aggressive lines as well, since riding the 29er Honzo is a like a honeybadger. :D

    In terms of $$ Hope hubs to the stock Sun Ringle stuff, I absolutely feel no difference in riding. They even sound similar too, Easy to set up tubeless as well, I'm never going back to tubes. I was worried about going with a budget wheelset, especially one's that only 28H for my weight but it has been the best value purchase I think on my build thus far. :thumbsup: Definitely an eye opener.

    The only thing negative I can say about my setup was the stock aluminum freehub made a ton of noise during climbs and didn't look pretty. Ended up with a steel freehub body from Sun Ringle and it's been quiet ever since. I can power on the climbs without a worry about it exploding or making any noise. Also I came to realize the stock Ardent setup is great for dry summer riding. When it gets wet and muddy in the fall or spring, they absolutely suck in the mud. Plus they aren't the lightest tire either.
  • 11-19-2012
    scurry4
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Try finding a set of Sun Ringle Charger Experts 29er. I spent $300 on mine last year during winter sales and they have been bombproof for me all season long. I'm the same size as yourself and quite hard on my stuff. I had to do more maintenance on my last wheelset (Hope Pro 2 / Mavic EX721, DH-quality wheelset) than on these, and I now take much more aggressive lines as well, since riding the 29er Honzo is a like a honeybadger. :D

    In terms of $$ Hope hubs to the stock Sun Ringle stuff, I absolutely feel no difference in riding. They even sound similar too, Easy to set up tubeless as well, I'm never going back to tubes. I was worried about going with a budget wheelset, especially one's that only 28H for my weight but it has been the best value purchase I think on my build thus far. :thumbsup: Definitely an eye opener.

    The only thing negative I can say about my setup was the stock aluminum freehub made a ton of noise during climbs and didn't look pretty. Ended up with a steel freehub body from Sun Ringle and it's been quiet ever since. I can power on the climbs without a worry about it exploding or making any noise. Also I came to realize the stock Ardent setup is great for dry summer riding. When it gets wet and muddy in the fall or spring, they absolutely suck in the mud. Plus they aren't the lightest tire either.

    Thanks! Awesome, now I just need to deal hunt. I would be dropping 700 grams just going to the experts, 900 to the pro. And thats not including tubes. I saw them cheap earlier in the year as well. need to find them again.

    Stupid thing, are the graphics just stickers?
  • 11-19-2012
    eurospek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    Thanks! Awesome, now I just need to deal hunt. I would be dropping 700 grams just going to the experts, 900 to the pro. And thats not including tubes. I saw them cheap earlier in the year as well. need to find them again.

    Stupid thing, are the graphics just stickers?

    Sure are. Those were the first thing I peeled off. Super easy too, no residue. Although I've seen them work on some bikes. The blue Honzo isn't one of them. :D
  • 11-21-2012
    scurry4
    How easy/hard is it to raise my revelation to 140?
  • 11-21-2012
    eurospek
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by scurry4 View Post
    How easy/hard is it to raise my revelation to 140?

    Quite simple really.

    Workshop: How To Adjust Travel On A RockShox Trail Fork - BikeRadar
  • 11-24-2012
    tvan
    Tubeless???
    Just ordered a '13 Honzo, can't wait to get it. I'm planning on setting it up tubeless and wondered if anybody knows if they ship it with the valve stems and rim tape required. If not I'll order them now so I can change it before the first ride...