Page 18 of 72 FirstFirst ... 8 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 28 68 ... LastLast
Results 426 to 450 of 1776
  1. #426
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    That looks awesome!

    Although I'm lost at what Frankenstein fork you received lol, CTD sticker, 2012 RLC damper, and looks like the new 2013 top cap assembly on the air side (which means you got the 2013 Float cartridge)?

    Either way, the 2013 color with the white Float looks incredible. Tough call between blue/black and your combo.
    Definitely a tough call. I have the fork set at 90psi and I'm able to make the fork bottom out by bobbing my full weight up and down. This leads me to believe I have the more linear spring/2013 float cartridge. It feels really plush. BTW, I'm 205lbs, so maybe the fork needs more air.

  2. #427
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,306
    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Definitely a tough call. I have the fork set at 90psi and I'm able to make the fork bottom out by bobbing my full weight up and down. This leads me to believe I have the more linear spring/2013 float cartridge. It feels really plush. BTW, I'm 205lbs, so maybe the fork needs more air.
    You may be right then. Did you ask Fox specifically for 120mm setting right off the bat?

    Either way, your psi definitely sounds like the new 2013 Float cartridge, because I'm about 20 lbs heavier than yourself and I'm well below 90 psi, more like 70ish on my Float @140 and super plush. The 2013 recommended psi values are about 15% greater for each weight bracket than the 2012 values.

    But I'm still not so sure as I dug more into this now (remember reading a few threads but had to search for them) and looks like the 2013 Float cartridge can only be dropped 10mm in travel, that's it.

    Gone are the travel spacers where you could have slapped on 40mm worth to drop travel, now it's fancy shuttle bumper pictured here in this thread. Along with the procedure here, and if you download the .xls file, the spreadsheet with part numbers confirms it.

    And I still recommend you trying the Honzo at 140mm, it's a blast!

  3. #428
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    You may be right then. Did you ask Fox specifically for 120mm setting right off the bat?

    Either way, your psi definitely sounds like the new 2013 Float cartridge, because I'm about 20 lbs heavier than yourself and I'm well below 90 psi, more like 70ish on my Float @140 and super plush. The 2013 recommended psi values are about 15% greater for each weight bracket than the 2012 values.

    But I'm still not so sure as I dug more into this now (remember reading a few threads but had to search for them) and looks like the 2013 Float cartridge can only be dropped 10mm in travel, that's it.

    Gone are the travel spacers where you could have slapped on 40mm worth to drop travel, now it's fancy shuttle bumper pictured here in this thread. Along with the procedure here, and if you download the .xls file, the spreadsheet with part
    numbers confirms it.

    And I still recommend you trying the Honzo at 140mm, it's a blast!
    Thanks for the resources. Next time I service the fork, I'll be sure to see how it was lowered. I did ask for it off the bat and I recall him saying they had to put in a different spring. I'm just glad I got a RLC because I really need that lockout.

  4. #429
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207
    Eurospeak, looking at my packing slip it lists the following items:

    Crash Replacement Fork

    2013, 34-k, FLOAT 29in F-S, 140, CTD-Adj, FIT, Wht, Gold Logo, 15QR, 1.5 T, Disc, 51mm Rake, DE

    Service Set: 2012 34 29in FLOAT 140 Air Shaft Assembly

    Service Set: 2012 34 F29 RLC 140 Cartridge Assy Complete

    Neg Spring Plate, 2012 34 FLOAT and VAN

    I can't figure it out, but I'm happy.

  5. #430
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    1
    Hey fellow Honzo-ites! Long time lurker, first time poster, go easy!

    So, cut to the chase, i have a stock ish '12 honzo 20L (+reverb+renthal bar & stem) and i'd like to shed some weight. Last time i had it on some scales it was getting close to 34 lbs which is pretty obese for such a simple bike.
    Am i expecting too much to want a 30lb honzo? Or are the stock wheels/drivetrain/brakes really THAT heavy???

  6. #431
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,306
    Quote Originally Posted by tomat0 View Post
    Hey fellow Honzo-ites! Long time lurker, first time poster, go easy!

    So, cut to the chase, i have a stock ish '12 honzo 20L (+reverb+renthal bar & stem) and i'd like to shed some weight. Last time i had it on some scales it was getting close to 34 lbs which is pretty obese for such a simple bike.
    Am i expecting too much to want a 30lb honzo? Or are the stock wheels/drivetrain/brakes really THAT heavy???
    I'm just under 31 lbs with my 20L frame. And that's with a .5 lb heavier fork than the Revelation stocker. The stock wheels and crankset are mighty heavy from people's reviews on here. I would ditch both. And go tubeless as well.

  7. #432
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    43
    Hey Euro

    Can you tell me if I was looking for a used fork how much steerer tube I would need on the 20l frame or does that just depend on how many spacers I want for my headset? Would I just be better to spend for a new fork? Thanks!

  8. #433
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,306
    Quote Originally Posted by sheranian View Post
    Hey Euro

    Can you tell me if I was looking for a used fork how much steerer tube I would need on the 20l frame or does that just depend on how many spacers I want for my headset? Would I just be better to spend for a new fork? Thanks!
    My Float 34 steerer is 7.25" (185 mm) and that's with a CC40 headset, short upper cup, 2.5mm spacer, Thomson X4 50mm stem, and three 5mm spacers on top which is perfect.

    If buying Fox, I would buy new for the sake of having a warranty for the creaking stanchions/CSU, I know my fork will be going for warranty at the end of this season for this exact reason.

  9. #434
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,306
    BTW, this seems like a great deal though if you're wanting a black Float 34, much better than the $899 I paid lol.

    Fox 34 Factory 29er Float CTD Trail Adjust Tapered Steerer 15mm, BLACK! - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  10. #435
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    43
    Thanks... I guess that one is long enough? Same as yours? I wonder about the warranty

  11. #436
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207

    More Pics

    Atop a ridge in Idyllwild.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1258.jpg
    Then a gust of wind ruined it all.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1259.jpg

  12. #437
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,306
    So now that you've had some hours on the new frame+fork, any difference from the old frameset? What about fork?

  13. #438
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    So now that you've had some hours on the new frame+fork, any difference from the old frameset? What about fork?
    Well the fork tracks much better and is stiffer than the F29. I'm surprised by how plush it is and how much travel it uses. I'm running it at 105psi and I added 5ml more float fluid to the air chamber for a total of 10ml. This made the fork a bit more progressive at the end of its travel which I wanted because I was bottoming out at 110 psi just riding around in the front yard.

    The offset of the fork increased from 46mm to 51mm and this took some getting used to. The bike was much twitchier at first, but my brother who rides a steely said it felt great, just a tad slower than his. I felt like I was in front of the bike and pushing the front end, making it wash easily. What I discovered was I was trying to ride it like my old bike/fork where I had to be more aggressive and forward weighted in order to get it to maneuver/steer in tight single track. The new fork allows me to ride in a more neutral position, off of the back of the bike more, in not such an forward weighted position. It's just more responsive and precise in steering and does not require as much body english to steer it.

    The only differences between the frames is the top tube gusset. Now, I have to say I really like how it stiffens up the bike. I stand the majority of the time and crank the bars up as I mash down with the opposing leg, which puts a lot of twisting force on the head and top tube. I can honestly say that the new frame does not flex as much and I can feel it when standing. It just feels more efficient. While descending I can't really feel a difference. What's more apparent is the more precise steering and the plushness of the fork. I can't say if the top tube gusset is helping there or not.

    Here are my thoughts. If you're a heavy single-speeder or if you climb out of the saddle a lot, then you'll appreciate the top tube gusset. If you spin or grind out climbs seated, then I doubt you'd notice anything but the weight it adds to your bike, if that. Now when it comes to the fork, I feel it's a tremendous upgrade. It mates up nicely with the frame. I may bump it up to 130mm, but I'm going to wait until I have more time with it at 120mm. Also, I'm really digging the color even though I was one of the earlier detractors.

  14. #439
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    45
    Your bike looks AWESOME, I think now I'm really convinced to get a Honzo. Although I'll probably get the complete bike and swap parts later on.

  15. #440
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    47
    Hi Carabao! I tryed to send you an MP but the Forum rules tells me that I need to make at least 10 post before... Nor this is my firsr post and I dont want to SPAM all over the Forum..... So, can you send me an MP please, I am interessed in buyin your old bike. Thank you.

  16. #441
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    47
    Damn! Even using the "Reply" buton I still cant send any MP!
    Anyway... Thank you CARABAO for answering me. Do I have to understand that you dont sell the DOSS anymore? Or maybe you dont have the 142x12 Dropouts anymore??? In any case can you send me your price and maybe your e-mail?
    About shipping costs to switzerland(CP 1207), they seems to be less than 100$. As an example, there is a copy/paste from a buying process simulation on bikeman.com:
    -----------------------------------------------------------
    UPS Worldwide Express $266.86
    USPS Express Mail International $92.10
    USPS Priority Mail International $72.52
    -----------------------------------------------------------

    Do you accept Paypal?

    Thank you.

  17. #442
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207

    Update and Warning for Fox 34 Owners

    First of all, if you want to change the travel in a 2012 34 Float the procedure is NOT the same as other 2012 Float forks. Although you change travel by adding/removing spacers from the air spring side, the air spring/plunger will NOT come out though the top of the fork. It has to be removed from the bottom by removing the lowers and the retaining clip. I had the worst time trying to hammer the air spring up through the top of the fork and ended up damaging the threads to the air spring/plunger shaft. I was able to rethread the shaft threads and my fork is fine, but I wanted to save others from doing as I did and having to spend $30 on a rethread kit. A call to Fox confirmed that you can't push the air spring/plunger through the top and must access it from the bottom.

    I went through all of this to raise my fork 10mm. I now have it set to 130mm and have the stem all but slammed except for a Cane Creek upper and a 2.5 spacer. Handling was pretty good the way I had it, but a bit on the twitchy side and I had to lean back a bit to avoid oversteering. This change makes the bike feel more natural and steering more intuitive. The bottom bracket measures just under 12.5" and I suspect the head angle is now about 67.5 degrees.

  18. #443
    mtbr member
    Reputation: carabao's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    207

  19. #444
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    24
    New chainring (e13) and Nukeproof Warhead Riser 800mm - works pretty fine for me!


  20. #445
    mtbr member
    Reputation: el_chupo_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,218
    What size seatpost clamp is needed? I can measure at home, but I am at work...

    Thanks!

  21. #446
    mtbr member
    Reputation: eurospek's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    5,306
    Quote Originally Posted by el_chupo_ View Post
    What size seatpost clamp is needed? I can measure at home, but I am at work...

    Thanks!
    35mm

    Get the Chromag QR. Best clamp ever!!!

  22. #447
    mtbr member
    Reputation: el_chupo_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    1,218
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    35mm

    Get the Chromag QR. Best clamp ever!!!
    Appreciate it. Been running Chromag Q/R's for 4 years. Just needed to be sure it was the 35mm version.

  23. #448
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    150
    Hi,

    I rode somewhere that it is possible to get a 2x10 set up. Does anyone have the specs for me? I want to convert it with a front derailleur if possible.
    Thanks.

  24. #449
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    237
    Hey Honzo owners,

    I am probably going to get a 2013 Honzo Frame and want to set it up with a 28t MRP bling ring with a sram x9 crank arm. I want the lightest, simplest, and cheapest chain guide solution and it appears that the Paul's chain keeper may be the best bet. It looks as though it could be mounted properly on the frame and set low enough to secure the small 28t ring since there is no spider using this bling ring setup with the sram crank. I know there is an MRP branded 1x guide, but it appears to have less adjustment ability and it costs more money. There is also the MRP micro guide, but that seems bulky and ugly, and it costs 150 bucks

    Anyone got experience or suggestions on these Paul's guides or the MRP 1x guide with a 28t bling ring?

    Thanks, Kevin

  25. #450
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    327

    Honzo frame or a real wheelset?

    Should I buy a Honzo frame or a Flow/i23, Hope wheel set? I currently am riding an '11Trek Mamba that is built very much like a Stache (same geo). It is rocking a 120mm Micro ti fork, SLX 2x10 (1x10 tomorrow) and brakes and everything else except wheels. Stock Ranger Wheel set (like 17 or 19 mm internal) running tubeless with big tires that squirm a lot. Would the Honzo be worth it before wheels? The rear will hardly stay true due to my landing capilities. Or would waiting on the framebe a better idea because I will have both by the end of next year?

Page 18 of 72 FirstFirst ... 8 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 28 68 ... LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Post your Practical Builds
    By hans-solo in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 02-23-2009, 09:13 AM
  2. Custom Builds Thread
    By jncarpenter in forum Turner
    Replies: 34
    Last Post: 05-22-2008, 03:33 PM
  3. post your 7" travel under 40 lbs builds
    By dusthuffer in forum Downhill - Freeride
    Replies: 99
    Last Post: 05-14-2008, 09:45 AM
  4. Post your ETSX builds
    By Shark in forum Rocky Mountain
    Replies: 128
    Last Post: 09-02-2007, 12:18 PM
  5. XCL Build thread X Post
    By DirtDad in forum Custom Builders & Other Manufacturers
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-19-2006, 10:24 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •