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  1. #1601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Felix_C View Post
    Thought I'd share my Honzo with you guys.
    It's the 2013 frame with custom paint job (raw steel with clearcoat).

    Attachment 902741
    Cables/hose could use some trimming, but the gray and orange is a good combo.

  2. #1602
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    @Felix_C

    Where'd you find the Kona decals?

  3. #1603
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    Quote Originally Posted by Equality 7-2521 View Post
    I've got about 100 miles on an XTR Clutch/Narrow-wide setup without the chain guide with no problems at all. Go for it!
    I've decided not to run a chain guide with this setup. The chain guide is rather loud, and with my Narrow/Wide chainring and clutch'ed short cage Zee derailleur I think I'll be just fine. Now if everything would just come in the mail

  4. #1604
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    I'm seriously considering bumping the stock Rock Shox Revelation travel to 140MM and wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts regarding the upgrade. Anyone ridden both?

    It's going to cost around $90. I love the Honzo's geometry and want to make sure I'm not going to regret the investment.

  5. #1605
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    I've only ridden it with a 140mm and I love the bike. 120mm would have been too close to my xc rig in travel, so I went with the largest travel possibly from the get go.

  6. #1606
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    I like mine at 140. Wouldn't want it any other way.

  7. #1607
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobine View Post
    I like mine at 140. Wouldn't want it any other way.
    This.
    konahonzo

  8. #1608
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobine View Post
    I like mine at 140. Wouldn't want it any other way.
    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    This.
    That makes me wonder how and where you ride because I keep thinking how perfect the 120 mm fork is for my mix of general riding and getting a little air time when I can.

  9. #1609
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitflogger View Post
    That makes me wonder how and where you ride because I keep thinking how perfect the 120 mm fork is for my mix of general riding and getting a little air time when I can.

    120mm would be put through the ringer here (I weigh 240#)....unless I were moving at a crawl (not like I move that much quicker).

    -pic by mountaingoatepics
    Trailwrecker at large

  10. #1610
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    I've ridden the stock Rev at 120 and 140.
    Once I took the travel bumper/spacer out of the fork and had my first ride at 140 there was no way I was going back to 120.

    I found at 120 I had to really pay attention to my pedal stroke to not smash them. Especially when riding tech and climbing tech.
    I also bottomed the fork regularly and harshly while it was at 120.

    At 140 all of these issues were fixed. I still bottom the fork on occasion. But not harshly.

    For reference I'm a giant at 6'6" and 240ish geared up. And, live and ride in Whistler as well as all of the Sea-to-Sky corridor on the Honzo.

    I'm going on my third season on the Honzo and I'm still in love! This bike rides hard!
    I just rode Cheap Thrills on my Honzo for the first time. And, I'm once again reevaluating what is possible on a hardtail! Although, I was worried about the fork folding under me while riding some of the steep and deep sections!
    Cheap Thrills is a black/double back steep and tech trail.

  11. #1611
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by lubes17319 View Post

    120mm would be put through the ringer here (I weigh 240#)....unless I were moving at a crawl (not like I move that much quicker).
    Interesting. I've been riding my dual suspension AM bike for stuff that is that rocky. Interesting to see how people use these bikes like it is to see the build choices.
    ƃuoɹʍ llɐ ʇno əɯɐɔ ʇɐɥʇ

  12. #1612
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    @Equality 7-

    My LBS had some guy custom make them for me. If you need some decals I could check with them and get you in touch with him.

  13. #1613
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    @smilinsteve

    Thanks! I loved the raw steel/orange combo on the 2013 Explosif, so much so that I had to get something similar.

  14. #1614
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    @Felix_C
    Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on that some time in the future. Are you happy with the clear coat?

    I think I'm definitely going to 140MM. Anyone know exactly which parts are required to convert a 2013 Revelation RL Solo to 140? I've tried to contact SRAM, and they seem to only want to talk to dealers.

    This is what I *think* I need:
    RockShox Revelation Spring Internal Left Solo Air 26" 27 5" 29" 140mm | eBay

  15. #1615
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    All this 140mm talk makes me want to try it out now. Might buy the conversion kit Right now I'm looking toward going to a tubeless setup, as my factory WTB i23 wheels are tubeless ready, but the stock Maxxis Ardent's are not tubeless ready tires. I've read where a tone of people don't even use UST beaded tires for tubeless and it works out just fine. I'm usually not this cheap, but these Ardent's are seriously like brand new and I would hate to have to spend money on tires, will I be safe to run these tubeless with a Stans Kit? I've spent over $100 on tubes since I've had this bike for less than a year lol

  16. #1616
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    I'm running the Maxxis Ardent EXO 2.25 and 2.4 non-UST specific tires (basically the stock Honzo tires) just fine on a set of Sun Ringle Charger set up tubeless from day one. Zero problems whatsoever.
    konahonzo

  17. #1617
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    All this 140mm talk makes me want to try it out now. Might buy the conversion kit Right now I'm looking toward going to a tubeless setup, as my factory WTB i23 wheels are tubeless ready, but the stock Maxxis Ardent's are not tubeless ready tires. I've read where a tone of people don't even use UST beaded tires for tubeless and it works out just fine. I'm usually not this cheap, but these Ardent's are seriously like brand new and I would hate to have to spend money on tires, will I be safe to run these tubeless with a Stans Kit? I've spent over $100 on tubes since I've had this bike for less than a year lol
    I've used WTB i23 rims with non-UST Ardents and they're holding up just fine even after passing them off to my agressive-riding coworker who's 6' 3" and 250lbs. I simply used the WTB TCS rim tape and Stan's valves to convert. I didn't buy a "conversion kit".

  18. #1618
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I'm running the Maxxis Ardent EXO 2.25 and 2.4 non-UST specific tires (basically the stock Honzo tires) just fine on a set of Sun Ringle Charger set up tubeless from day one. Zero problems whatsoever.
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I've used WTB i23 rims with non-UST Ardents and they're holding up just fine even after passing them off to my agressive-riding coworker who's 6' 3" and 250lbs. I simply used the WTB TCS rim tape and Stan's valves to convert. I didn't buy a "conversion kit".
    Thanks guys! I'm going to order everything needed to convert today, the only thing that has been stopping me is not having the "right" tires, but I guess that doesn't really matter too much

  19. #1619
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    The sidewalls on non-ust/snakeskin tires can be porous, but that's where the sealant kicks in.

  20. #1620
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    Thanks guys! I'm going to order everything needed to convert today, the only thing that has been stopping me is not having the "right" tires, but I guess that doesn't really matter too much
    You might need no more than stems and sealant. My factory wheels already had yellow Stans looking tape. Adding that my OEM Ardent tires inflated by hand with ease and have held pressure well after 1 day.

    I'm 150 lbs running them 25 PSI or less rear, 22-23 PSI front.
    ƃuoɹʍ llɐ ʇno əɯɐɔ ʇɐɥʇ

  21. #1621
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    I've gotten almost everything in today, still have to shorten the brake lines and chain and finish getting the Zee derailleur set up. But after playing with the Saint shifter and XT Brakes I think I'm a Shimano guy now we'll see how long this King headset lasts before developing the dreaded "creak" and shredding my steertube lol I found out about the long travel issues King's have after ordering it...oops.
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  22. #1622
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    *found out why the chain was so loose. I installed the derailleur with the tab in the wrong spot as to not put tension on the derailleur and keep it in place, it just swung back and forth

  23. #1623
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    How did you size up the chain? Looks a bit long at first glance (despite of the clutch tab)

  24. #1624
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    How did you size up the chain? Looks a bit long at first glance (despite of the clutch tab)
    It's the same length as it came stock. It's decent now that I have the detailleur in the right spot, but I'm still going to shorten it. I'm dropping by the LBS after work to grab a chain breaker and shorten it.

  25. #1625
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    It's decent now that I have the detailleur in the right spot
    I've found that I have to pull out the detailleur more often with the Honzo than many of my other bikes. That chainstay yoke seems to love catching muddddddd.

  26. #1626
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    Anyone recommend a good rim wrench?

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-purgatory.jpg

    This is the suck. But I get a new wheelset out of it. The tire's name behind my destroyed wheel is quite appropriate. No riding on the upcoming 3-day weekend for me.

  27. #1627
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    Is the rim too damaged to use a tube?
    Last edited by Vegard; 06-29-2014 at 05:20 AM.

  28. #1628
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    Yeah I think so. It is basically folded in half with stress cracks all around the spoke bed. If I were to try bend back it will probably just snap off. Thanks for the suggestion though.

  29. #1629
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    Besides a chain (ordered KMC X10SL) this build is done for now. I start summer classes in a week so I'm just going to get as much riding in as possible and then finish the rest of the build come winter (wheelset, cranks, Reverb, etc.). My sister bought a nice camera recently so I had her shoot some pics of it for me. I'm driving up North a little this weekend to hit some fun trails before I'm tied down for a month starting Monday
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  30. #1630
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    Bike looks good DeArmond!



    What wheels did you end up with?

  31. #1631
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    Thanks man! I don't have any wheels yet, I'm going to build them in the winter. I think I have my mind set on black Hope Evo 2 hubs with black spokes, orange nipples, and just reuse my i23's that I have right now.

  32. #1632
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    DeA, the bike looks good. It needs a bit of dirt here and there. Ride the crap out it while you can.

  33. #1633
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    Bling, nice!

  34. #1634
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    DeA, the bike looks good. It needs a bit of dirt here and there. Ride the crap out it while you can.
    Thanks! I plan on riding the crap out of it this weekend, its been down for too long!
    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    Bling, nice!
    Thanks man!

  35. #1635
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    Thanks! I plan on riding the crap out of it this weekend, its been down for too long!
    Cheers to you. My Honzo is down hopefully for only the next 3-4 weeks while my wheels are built. I have a spare wheel but the hub is the wrong axle size.

    I'll be sure to drink enough beer and eat enough brats on the Fourth for most of us. Nothing like a day at the lake.

  36. #1636
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    Mine was down for about that time, and I don't have any backup bikes like a used to The struggle is real lol The Fourth and lakes go hand in hand!

  37. #1637
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    ^ No plans for a dropper?
    konahonzo

  38. #1638
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    I'm hoping to get a Reverb before summer's over

  39. #1639
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    Any of you guys had issues with creaks in the rear?

    It only occurs when I put power on the pedals, doesn't matter if I'm seated or standing so it's unlikely to be the seatpost. Re-tigthening the rear axle makes it go away for a little while.

    So far I've cleaned and re-lubed
    Headset
    Chainring bolts
    Derailleur mount
    Pedals
    Axle threads and some on the shaft.

    Installed a new XTR bottombracket with fresh lube so it isn't likely to be the culprit. The BB that came with the Zee crank only lasted 2 months, this particular creak developed shortly before swapping BBs.

    Guess I should try lubing up the sliding dropout next?

  40. #1640
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    Yep mine also creaks when I put power on the pedals. I think it comes from the bb but you know how misleadings those creaks can be. Had my frame reamed and faced btw

  41. #1641
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    Yep mine also creaks when I put power on the pedals. I think it comes from the bb but you know how misleadings those creaks can be. Had my frame reamed and faced btw
    Mine used to do it too, it was my stock FSA cranks. Since the BB's been replaced and everything re-tightened I can't think of what it could be.

  42. #1642
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Any of you guys had issues with creaks in the rear?

    It only occurs when I put power on the pedals, doesn't matter if I'm seated or standing so it's unlikely to be the seatpost. Re-tigthening the rear axle makes it go away for a little while.

    So far I've cleaned and re-lubed
    Headset
    Chainring bolts
    Derailleur mount
    Pedals
    Axle threads and some on the shaft.

    Installed a new XTR bottombracket with fresh lube so it isn't likely to be the culprit. The BB that came with the Zee crank only lasted 2 months, this particular creak developed shortly before swapping BBs.

    Guess I should try lubing up the sliding dropout next?
    Clipless or flats?

    My Honzo was creak free at the end of last season. Tore it down this winter and reassembled and from day 1 of this season I was creaking in the same instance like you, power on the pedals, standing and seated. First ride this season was cut short due to my Chromag skewer axle snapping off but that's another story. I started with the obvious, purchased a brand new Saint BB, although my old Saint BB felt relatively smooth. That wasn't it. Bought a new e13 chainring, (old one still had a good season left) and that wasn't it. Even though I made sure to grease the bolts, etc. Then I started looking at the derailleur hanger bolt and greased everything I could where it touched the hanger. Not it. Then started with the dropouts. Gorilla fisted tight and still creaked. Lubed them up. Still creaked, took off the grease, still creaked. Let me say the first few rides of this season were brutal. I wasn't concentrating on the ride, but going over in my head what's creaking. Cause there is nothing more aggravating to me on a ride than a creak that I can't find. Same goes for a rattle in the car.

    So then I started messing with the pinch bolts on the SLX cranks. Used greased, then tried loctite. Varied the amount of torque on them. Almost wanted to switch for another pair of SLX cranks off my brother's bike thinking maybe a fourth season on my SLX cranks was enough for them. Then I decided to clean the grease/dirt collection off the springs of the Shimano XT 785 SPD mechanisms and installed new cleats on my shoes. Everything was silent from there on out. The only thing that had changed from my previous year's creak-freesetup were these pedals. They were brand new after receiving a new pair due to a warranty claim. Go figure because before messing with my SPD pedals, I switched to some flats, and I could only replicate the noise once, although it might have been something completely different.

    Maybe all the bike needed was some dirt to quiet it down after all.
    konahonzo

  43. #1643
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    Any opinion on running outer cable housing from shifter all the way to the rear mech? I know this typically isn't done, just wondering if there is a reason NOT to do this. I figure there will be some more resistance in the shifter, but it seems like it will keep your inner cable much cleaner and give it longer life.

  44. #1644
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    Quote Originally Posted by epapa View Post
    Any opinion on running outer cable housing from shifter all the way to the rear mech? I know this typically isn't done, just wondering if there is a reason NOT to do this. I figure there will be some more resistance in the shifter, but it seems like it will keep your inner cable much cleaner and give it longer life.
    There's no other way to run derailleur housing on the Honzo. It's full cable housing from shifter all the way to derailleur. The only way IMO to run cable.
    konahonzo

  45. #1645
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    Excellent, thanks eurospek. My Kahuna didn't come this way, so I wasn't sure if it was going to be an issue moving forward with this build. Picking up the honzo frame/fork from my lbs tomorrow after work and getting this build started. Pics to follow soon!

  46. #1646
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    Creaks really annoy the hell out of me, my bikes can make whatever other noise they wish, as long as they don't creak.

    So yesterday after having lubed up every possible area, including teflon oil on the pedalclips; the bike still creaked. Annoyed by this fact I headed off to ride some trails that are mostly downhill, figured that'd get me the least amount of pedaling.

    One of these trails have some jumps, and after landing like an angrybird the creak was gone!!

    Hopefully it'll stay away when I swap the wheelsets tomorrow.

  47. #1647
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    FINALLY got out and rode this morning. This bike rides sooo much better! Not a creak or any other kind of noise for that matter and the new Shimano Saint/Zee combo shifted quiet and absolutely flawlessly. I can also see all of the rave in the XT brakes too. I can't wait to head out to Bentonville tomorrow. The only issue I did have today though was my rear axle coming loose. It's happened too in the past as well, anybody else's 12x142 pop loose?

  48. #1648
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    Congrats, what's the final weight?

  49. #1649
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    Whenever I did a ghetto weigh (stand on scale w/o bike, stand on scale with bike) it came out to a dead even 30lbs. I expect to drop it more than that whenever I build my wheels in December and get these heavy suckers off.

  50. #1650
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    The only issue I did have today though was my rear axle coming loose. It's happened too in the past as well, anybody else's 12x142 pop loose?
    Not at all, I even had trouble getting it loose last time I had to take my wheel off

  51. #1651
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    Hmm, guess I'll keep an eye on it when riding tomorrow. Forgot to add, never came close to dropping my chain with the Narrow/Wide, so the chain guide is staying off

  52. #1652
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    I took the colourmatching to another level.

  53. #1653
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    nice pic!

  54. #1654
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-10405679_10203550767946106_421837957357358748_n.jpg

    Stock 2014 build for now. Working on gathering bits. Just wanted to share the picture of my new ride!

  55. #1655
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    Very nice. Super jealous due to my lack of a front wheel, lol.

  56. #1656
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    I've dropped 2lbs off the Honzo in the past few days, down to 28.7-ish [13.1kg]

  57. #1657
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    Quote Originally Posted by jumpa View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	205 
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ID:	906154

    Stock 2014 build for now. Working on gathering bits. Just wanted to share the picture of my new ride!

    Dude, this color really kick ass!

  58. #1658
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    My 2013 frame is about two months old, well cared for, and showing a bit of rust just ahead of the top tube/seat tube gusset. The front edge of the gusset has very little finish on it, and my guess is sweat dripped into the seam there and the rust is coming up under the finish, fingering towards the center of the top tube.

    Anyone else seeing a similar issue. Kona pretty much blew me off, implying that it's a cosmetic issue. I'm disappointed with their support on the matter. Suggesting steel wool!?

    I'm considering the idea of a refinish, but even so I think it'd be difficult to clear all the rust that's likely built up under the gusset. Thoughts?

    Absolutely love the bike btw. Without question, my favorite that I've owned.

  59. #1659
    Nor­wegr
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    Getting rid of the rust without taking some of the finish off is going to be hard if at all possible. Konas support has in my experience been awful, to the point of when this frame dies I'm not getting another frame or bike from them.

    That being said the Honzo geometry kicks ass, I wish Ibis or Devinci made it

  60. #1660
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    I really want to support them. I've ridden their frames since 1994, and have been a consistent advocate of the brand. Yet, the first time I need them to step up and take care of me, they pretty much sneer and laugh in my face. The first sales/warranty guy didn't even really listen to my concern. He's the one that offered the steel wool advice. The next guy (his boss, I presume) downplayed it, and then in one sentence said it was a cosmetic problem and not an issue he'd heard of before (I find this very hard to believe) and that they'd gone to a new finish in 2015 that should be better. I pointed out his contradiction and at that point the conversation lost all objectivity. He'd made up his mind that I would not receive any support on the matter and nothing would've convinced him otherwise. I asked him very clearly if rust under the finish on a two month old frame is purely cosmetic and he replied "yes and it will not be covered under warranty."

    So, now I either have to watch the rust continue to creep up the top tube and - who knows how far - down towards the seat tube under the gusset, or I have to fork out $200-$500 for a refinish... for the two month old bike.

    I think Kona made a poor decision taking this finish to market and they should take care of customers who have issues with it. At a bare minimum they could offer a bit of the clear coat that I can use to refinish that area, but that's still an inconvenience, and not the ideal customer service.

  61. #1661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I've dropped 2lbs off the Honzo in the past few days, down to 28.7-ish [13.1kg]
    What's the current build spec? I'm still hovering around 30ish.
    konahonzo

  62. #1662
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    I have a little bit of rust right there too but it's not under the finish, just surface rust where the finish didn't reach up under the gusset all of the way I assume. I put an air chuck in one of the water cage bolts after washing one day and water blew out of the front of that gusset because it's not welded up front. I haven't worried about it much honestly. My bike was missing one of the dropout bolts when I bought it and I contacted Kona and they sent me a new one free of charge immediately. Is your rust actually eating away the finish?

  63. #1663
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    It's just under the finish. Looks like rust started to form under the gusset and is reaching up under the edge of the finish, which gets thinner right there at the end of the gusset.

    It's small now, but growing without question. I just just went out of town for a week (left the Honzo at home to spare it the salt and sand) and it was quite a bit more noticeable in that short amount of time.

  64. #1664
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What's the current build spec? I'm still hovering around 30ish.
    Off the top of my head it's the below spec. Probably forgot mentioning some bits and I could probably drop an lb or two more if I really went weight crazy.

    '13 Frame
    Pike 140mm
    Zee crank, derailleur, shifter
    Raceface 32t NW chainring
    XTR BB
    Eggbeater 2 pedals
    XT cassette & chain

    Magura MT2 brakes, 160/180mm rotors
    SRAM Roam 60 wheels
    Hans Dampf trailstar 2.35 front
    Nobby nic pacestar 2.35 rear

    Hope non-qr seatpost clamp
    Procraft dropper post
    Race Face Aeffect saddle
    Renthal fatbar lite
    Hope DH stem, 50mm
    Hope Headset
    Cannondale lockon grips

  65. #1665
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    Anyone have an XL Honzo they are willing to part with?

    Kona Honzo XL WANTED - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories

  66. #1666
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattbryant2 View Post
    Anyone have an XL Honzo they are willing to part with?

    Kona Honzo XL WANTED - Buy and Sell and Review Mountain Bikes and Accessories
    2012 Kona Honzo 22" 29er New | eBay
    konahonzo

  67. #1667
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    Re: Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here


  68. #1668
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    Nice build

  69. #1669
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    Anyone know how to get their hands on some slider bolts? Two of mine are stripped (previous owner) and now I can't adjust the rear. I emailed Kona tech and they were less than helpful, obviously I'd be willing to pay.

  70. #1670
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    I contacted Kona about getting one and they told me that they are available at any hardware store lol but they still sent me two of them when I asked for one, quick shipping too! If you PM me your address I'll send you the other one tomorrow if you'd like free of charge

  71. #1671
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    Oops, I see that you have two that are stripped, I only have one. I'll still send it if you'd like though.

  72. #1672
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I saw that one, I meant another XL... like that frame and fork listed in the classifieds with an unresponsive seller!

    Doesn't matter though, because I got impatient and decided I'd rather ride than wait it out, so I bought that one on eBay. Should be here Monday. I'm stoked.

    I'll be coming off a steel SS w/80mm suspension fork. Right away the bike will get a new drivetrain (the old one will be sold as new if I like the bike, or put back on if I don't)... and grips, pedals, saddle (all the stuff I would change on any stock bike). I've got a brand new Zee/XT 1x10 drivetrain (I'd probably want to pick up a narrow/wide ring for my Zee crank, as I don't want to use a chainguide, though I almost think with the short cage clutch derailleur the standard ring might do), but I was also considering just keeping the SS drivetrain initially. I have been enjoying it lately...

    My real question is, which should my first experience with the Honzo be -- 1x1 or 1x10? It will certainly be the one upon which I judge it, and a lot of bikes have been through my garage lately, and they've all been unable to dethrone my Surly as the one. These days I'm starting to think two mountain bikes might be the magic number (and, you know, a cross bike, road bike, and touring bike). But I digress...

    Also, should I go for the 140mm fork conversion to color my early experience? I've only been riding the 80mm for a few months after almost 10 years of rigid riding (with hardtails and full-suspensions in my distant past), and typically ride frames with steep XC geometry (often on much gnarlier terrain than they are intended for)... so the slack HT and 120mm fork will be big departures for me already, but so will the short chain stays. If I'm really just going for it, go 140? Or baby steps? I'm trying to break out of my box with this bike. I do like to pop...

    If I keep the bike, it'll get new wheels and brakes, probably a handlebar and stem, probably a dropper post, probably a headset... Regarding wheels I have read your posts on the Charger Pros, eurospek, and I have been considering those. Otherwise thinking about building up some i23s on Zee hubs. Also eyeballing the Zee brakes, which aren't available as affordably as the SLX, but the O-C in me feels as if he would be so satisfied with the complete Zee kit, based purely on a very strange desire for consistent componentry... (Does anyone else have this problem?)

    Anyway, forgive the self-indulgent post. I'm just really looking forward to this bike... and, okay, I've had a few drinks while reading almost 2/3 of this behemoth of a thread. I'll finish it in the morning.
    Last edited by mattbryant2; 07-12-2014 at 01:14 PM.

  73. #1673
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    IMHO, invest the most in the wheels.
    When I changed out the Hope/Flow EX with SRAM Roam 60s the change in acceleration was very noticeable. For a moment it almost felt as quick as my 19lb 27.5 xc bike.

    1x10 and 140mm will give you a very capable trail and all mountain rig, few are strong enough to muscle around 1x1 on the kind of trails the Honzo can take on.

    The Zee group is very nice, the derailleur is only 40g heavier than a XX1 derailleur, the cost difference isn't exactly $40.. I'm looking into running all Zee derailleurs next season. Zee sounds nicer than SLX aswell :P

    -

    As for matching brands, I've never seen the need, but on my Honzo build I tried to stick to Zee, Hope and Race Face. Though that quickly spiraled out of control when I bought a RS Pike and SRAM wheels.

  74. #1674
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    I LOVE my Zee derailleur combined with my Saint shifter, I was going to go with the Saint derailleur, but a lot of you guys talked me into the Zee. This derailleur shifts 100% smooth and quiet and has absolutely no delay, and the clutch works great! No chain slap or droppage combine with the RaceFace Narrow/Wide. I'm going to get my wheels built in December. I was going to go for the Hope Evo 2 hubs, but now I think I want to go all of the way and spring for the Mango King's. Decisions Decisions :/ Either way though, I'll be excited to get these factory boat anchors off of it.

  75. #1675
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    Here it comes guys Possibly a Titanium Honzo frame???
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-screen-shot-2014-07-17-4.02.34-pm.jpg

  76. #1676
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    Doubt it. Maybe carbon. To match the rumoured Carbon Process 111.

    As for 2015, I see no major changes other than a less than desirable color scheme IMO (seems to be getting worse every year lol), a beefier seat tube brace, and no more 44mm headtube. Looks to be a tapered headtube now.

    konahonzo

  77. #1677
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    I too have heard rumblings of a carbon Honzo.
    'Carbonzo'? Lol

  78. #1678
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    Titanium Honzo is a terrible idea. Carbon Honzo is even more idiotic. Better quality steel Honzo is more like it, but I don't see that happening. 2015 is the nicest looking Honzo so far. We can only hope that it would be the lightest too.

  79. #1679
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    That color scheme's not too bad, I still prefer my 2013 frame though. Has there been any incidents I wonder that makes them change the seat tube bracing quite often?

  80. #1680
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeArman View Post
    That color scheme's not too bad, I still prefer my 2013 frame though. Has there been any incidents I wonder that makes them change the seat tube bracing quite often?
    The seat tube bracing is for a lowered standover finally like they claimed. If you remember when they released the 2013 frameset (gold/orange), they announced that it had a lowered standover from 2012 but geo was relatively unchanged from 2012 to even 2014. Standover height has been the same all along.

    this year's Honzo features a lower top tube for increased standover and a new 142x12 rear axle for increased lateral stability
    KONAWORLD
    konahonzo

  81. #1681
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    Quote Originally Posted by I.V.A. View Post
    Titanium Honzo is a terrible idea. Carbon Honzo is even more idiotic. Better quality steel Honzo is more like it, but I don't see that happening. 2015 is the nicest looking Honzo so far. We can only hope that it would be the lightest too.
    It would be terrible if it was priced like the titanium Explosif or Raijin, close to $2000. Retain the same sizing, price it along the lines of the Carver 420 or Titus Fireline Evo and then you'd have a winner. But ideally I would be just okay with better tubing on the standard Honzo. Something under 6 lbs for the XL would be ideal.
    konahonzo

  82. #1682
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    I'm parked.

  83. #1683
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    420 and Fireline are glorified trail bikes, they are built around 120mm of maximum travel. Titanium can work in that case. It's working for Cove Hummer 27.5 too, although don't expect too much forgiveness from that frame. But if you want 140mm on a 29er hardtail (we are now probably in the all mountain realm of the marketing), you need more titanium. So the frame becomes more stiff and the weight difference is not worth the money.

  84. #1684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post




    I'm parked.
    Look on the bright side. Now you can spend even more time tinkering on the Honzo instead of riding it.

  85. #1685
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    I know right, this wasn't a riding accident. My torque wrench exploded on me while I was tinkering

    I landed after a jump and the hans dampf lost grip on what I think was a rogue rock, slid right out from under me and I faceplanted. Helmet and backpack with a backplate was a good thing to have that day, the straps on the pack held the bone in place

  86. #1686
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    You can be sarcastic all you want, and let's be honest, right now that's all you can do. But you're not looking on the bright side. And there's more than one, according to your description of the accident.

  87. #1687
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    These photo's will probably make some of you color-matching haters cringe, but I just landed a custom anodized Thomson seat post clamp on eBay Up next, mango King hubs to get rid of the boat anchors and MAYBE a mango King bottom bracket and the color matching is done
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2792_zps0e6ab026.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2793_zpsde6dd99a.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2794_zpsd0f539f3.jpg

  88. #1688
    SP Singletrack rocks
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    no non action shots.

    2012 Honzo Frame M
    Manitou Tower Pro 120mm
    Cane Creek 110

    Front wheel = Hope Pro 2, wheelsmith 1.7/2.0 Flow Ex
    Rear Wheel = DT Swiss 240 SS. Wheelsmith 1.7/2.0 Flow Ex
    Tires = F2.30 Maxxis High Roller 2 Exo 3c,R MAxxis Ikon 2.35 Exo 3c

    Brakes - Avid Elixer 9 brakes

    Cockpit

    Kore 35mm stem
    Truvative stylo single speed bars
    Ergon Ge-1 Grips
    Thompson Elite post 9 reverb coming soon)
    Fizik Tundra

    Drive train

    Crank - Truvative Stylo SS crank(will be replaced by either and XT or atlas when I can

    Raceface narrow wide 34t
    BBG Bash
    Endless SS Cog 20t
    Sram 891 chain

    27lb 9 oz with 2 high rollers 2 on, slightly lighter when I have an Ikon on the back or Ikon front and rear

  89. #1689
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    no more 44mm headtube. Looks to be a tapered headtube now.

    So no more mix-n-match bottom cups to fine tune your headtube angle then? That's a bit disappointing.

  90. #1690
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    What rear derailleurs are compatible with the 40T OneUp Sprocket?

    The OneUp 40T sprocket is compatible with the same rear derailleurs mentioned above. In addition, when used in a 1X system, the OneUp 40T sprocket is compatible with Zee FR and Saint (when set in FR mode) on bikes with 25mm or less suspension chain growth. To check the chain growth of your suspension ask the manufacturer or follow the steps below

    - Measure the distance between the rear axle and crank axle.

    - Deflate the rear shock and cycle the suspension to find and measure the spot in the travel where this distance is the longest

    - The difference between these numbers is the chain growth of your suspension

    ----------

    Guess the Honzo + Zee + wimp cog will work just fine then.

  91. #1691
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    So, I'm almost certainly going through with the refinish job. I found a reputable powder coating shop locally and I'm trying to get the details (color, sheen) finalized. Have any of you successfully removed/reattached the (2012-2014) head tube badge? Anyone know how it's attached? I really want to get that thing off and on without dinging it up.

    And I'm bummed that no ti-honzo was released this morning. I was already scrounging up all my pennies.

  92. #1692
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    I assume it's just glued on there considering it's plastic, granted I've never had it off.

  93. #1693
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    Here's an update.

    As you see it - I could not be happier. The biggest change was moving to a Rockshox Pike. The quality of damping on the Pike is outstanding. It's supple on the small stuff, stays high in the travel and take hard whomps with ease. You've read all about it so I'll stop myself there. If you're reading this and just got a Pike and are wondering where to start - I am running the suggested air pressure, middle of the road rebound, compression either four or three clicks in from full open. I set that up when I got the fork and have touched nothing. My old Revelation Dual Air goes up on eBay soon.

    Equally important was being able to start with an uncut steerer. The bike now fits perfectly as I'm able to get my hands exactly where I want them. You'll see people my height (6'5") with more seat post extension, but I can't say I need it. So- fit is A+ and the Pike is magic. These two things combined have made me a better rider. And I have to say, dropping the seat and getting low in the fast stuff is safer and more fun!

    Hans Dampf/Nobby Nic combo has been flawless. When they both wear out I'll replace with they redesigned Nobby Nic to save a little weight- but am very happy at the moment. I'm comfortable with the wear/grip tradeoff.

    Might upgrade to 11 speed for 2015, which will involve a new rear hub and Sram X1 stuff (though Shimano's solution intrigues me.) I'd drop my front ring down to a 28 as well. Good for when I go out west and my sea level city slicker ass gets handed to me by the altitude.

    The compliments I get on this bike are the best ego stroke one could ask for. People either think I'm really good, really crazy or really cool. I'll take all three, thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_1529.jpg  


  94. #1694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Equality 7-2521 View Post
    So, I'm almost certainly going through with the refinish job. I found a reputable powder coating shop locally and I'm trying to get the details (color, sheen) finalized. Have any of you successfully removed/reattached the (2012-2014) head tube badge? Anyone know how it's attached? I really want to get that thing off and on without dinging it up.

    And I'm bummed that no ti-honzo was released this morning. I was already scrounging up all my pennies.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    I assume it's just glued on there considering it's plastic, granted I've never had it off.
    What color are you going with and how much have you been quoted? I was toying with the idea of spraying mine highlighter yellow last season but in the end I would have to have it shipped both ways to a shop I trust and just wasn't worth it in the end, especially since I have the nice matte blue to begin with.

    The headtube badge is definitely not plastic. It's metal. As for it being attached, it's stuck on there with double-sided tape, all around the edge and inside the "K" part as well. It should come off rather easily. As for reattaching it, I'd suggest something like small roll of 3M VHB tape (super sticky double sided tape) or even a square of the material, attach it to the headtube badge and simply cut out around with an X-Acto knife and reapply firmly.

    Or you might get lucky and have Kona mail you a spare badge free of charge with the tape pre-applied if you email them. You never know.
    konahonzo

  95. #1695
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What color are you going with and how much have you been quoted? I was toying with the idea of spraying mine highlighter yellow last season but in the end I would have to have it shipped both ways to a shop I trust and just wasn't worth it in the end, especially since I have the nice matte blue to begin with.
    Between $80-$100 for prep and coating, depending on the exact finish. Some of the lower gloss or textured colors are a bit more. Luckily I live within 10 minutes of where a large percentage of the NASCAR shops are located, so there are a handful of shops which paint frames, and the price stays reasonable.

    Thanks for the info on the badge.

  96. #1696
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    Quote Originally Posted by hjulier View Post
    Equally important was being able to start with an uncut steerer. The bike now fits perfectly as I'm able to get my hands exactly where I want them. You'll see people my height (6'5") with more seat post extension, but I can't say I need it. So- fit is A+ and the Pike is magic. These two things combined have made me a better rider. And I have to say, dropping the seat and getting low in the fast stuff is safer and more fun!
    I'll have to agree with this statement 100%. Running more spacers this season is the best thing I've done for fit of this bike yet. I'm 6'4" and on the 20" Long frame. When I built it up in 2012 I ran a short CC40 upper cup and maybe 15mm worth of spacers, next season I slammed the stem to the headset cup and thought I was cool and always came back with an aching back after longer rides. Fast forward to this season and having a new CSU for my creaking Fox 34, I was left with an uncut steerer tube like yourself and started playing around. I'm now using a tall CC40 cup, which already is 7mm taller than before, and 30mm worth of spacers between that and my 40mm Chromag Ranger stem (also new for this season, previously only ran a Thomson X4 50mm). The fit is spot on!!! No more aching back and overall it just feels better in every position and I'm riding more aggressively as well. As for the bars, they never changed, 25mm rise Chromag OSX 780mm
    konahonzo

  97. #1697
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    What's the price of the 2015 kona honzo in the USA?

  98. #1698
    SP Singletrack rocks
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    I would love a carbon honzo for an XC race bike as weird as that sounds. The geo is not making it any slower than my race bike, in fact most places I prefer it. The 27lb weight on albeit heavy build could easily be lighten 22ish with carbon wheels and carbon wheels.

  99. #1699
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    I'll have to agree with this statement 100%. Running more spacers this season is the best thing I've done for fit of this bike yet. I'm 6'4" and on the 20" Long frame. When I built it up in 2012 I ran a short CC40 upper cup and maybe 15mm worth of spacers, next season I slammed the stem to the headset cup and thought I was cool and always came back with an aching back after longer rides. Fast forward to this season and having a new CSU for my creaking Fox 34, I was left with an uncut steerer tube like yourself and started playing around. I'm now using a tall CC40 cup, which already is 7mm taller than before, and 30mm worth of spacers between that and my 40mm Chromag Ranger stem (also new for this season, previously only ran a Thomson X4 50mm). The fit is spot on!!! No more aching back and overall it just feels better in every position and I'm riding more aggressively as well. As for the bars, they never changed, 25mm rise Chromag OSX 780mm
    Same here, I've been gradually increasing my spacers, relieved me of most of the back pain I had but still have some from time to time. Gonna try and raise it a bit more. Also rocking the Chromag OSX. 6'5" tall.

  100. #1700
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    I somewhat get the posts on a lighter bike but I also think a percentage of the Honzo spirit is the didn't cost a lot and takes a beating spirit. Mine was new in May and is already scratched from treating it as a mountain bike.

    Answering the other question, it looks like 2015 model US list is up $100 to $2100 and there are some improved parts along with it.

    In spirit of the "build thread" and damage from going for it.... I tore one of the Ardents in a rock garden and am trying the Bontrager tires I've seen get good reviews. The Trek Store summer sale got me 3 for the price of German tires I like. I'm running the XR4 in front and have tried XR3 in 2.2 and 2.3 inch. They are not as big as some tires I like but they're fast and have something there when you're leaned over compared to some more rounded tires. They're significantly better than the OEM Ardents when it comes to throwing mud.

    The speedy feel and superior to Ardents in goo are tempting me to shuffle them around again with 2.3 XR4 (aka 29-4) staying in front and 2.2 inch XR3 back on in back. That would probably please my wife with whom I share the Honzo.

    The pic is 2.3 inch XR3 in back with 2.3 inch XR4 front, and the evolution of bar width. My co-trail steward wants one of both of those trees gone now that he's gone modern bike. I want to be better about remembering to wheelie and a bar flick.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-hfej00o.jpg

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