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  1. #1201
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    Drop the chainguide and buy a narrow/wide chainring like the one from race face which is currently pretty cheap. Supports 9, 10 and 11 speed and prevents dropped chains.

  2. #1202
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Finally got to test ride a small and medium Honzo today- I'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam and the Medium is way too big. With the stock fork, the top tube was slammed up against my package and I'm planning on putting a 140 on.

    Anyone got a small frame you don't want?


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  3. #1203
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Wow, wouldnt have thought the chain guide would weigh so much. Is it a big negative to drop that?

    Also, any recommendation on tires to go for? Ikon? Maybe a Nobby Nic up front and a Racing Ralph in back?
    The stock chainguide has a steel backplate so it is a bit heavier than an aluminum backed one. I have mine set up with a Wolftooth ring and Zee rd and so far they have been steady.

    I have been running a 2.4 Ardent/2.35 Ikon combo that has served me well. When I switch it up I might go 2.4 Ardents front and rear or a Butcher up front with a Ground Control in the back for winter conditions.

    I really wouldn't worry about the overall weight so much. My small Honzo is mostly mid-range parts (read no carbon fiber) and it sits at 28 lbs 11 ozs. I'd image I could get it into the 27 lb range if I went with carbon parts and wheels but I think a dropper in the next big upgrade for mine. Although a Derby rimmed wheelset would be insane.

    I am happy with my bike and I ride with a lot more confidence over my old Mamba. The margin for rider error seems to be much greater on this bike.

  4. #1204
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Finally got to test ride a small and medium Honzo today- I'm 5'9" with a 31" inseam and the Medium is way too big. With the stock fork, the top tube was slammed up against my package and I'm planning on putting a 140 on.

    Anyone got a small frame you don't want?


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  5. #1205
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    The stock chainguide has a steel backplate so it is a bit heavier than an aluminum backed one. I have mine set up with a Wolftooth ring and Zee rd and so far they have been steady.

    I have been running a 2.4 Ardent/2.35 Ikon combo that has served me well. When I switch it up I might go 2.4 Ardents front and rear or a Butcher up front with a Ground Control in the back for winter conditions.

    I really wouldn't worry about the overall weight so much. My small Honzo is mostly mid-range parts (read no carbon fiber) and it sits at 28 lbs 11 ozs. I'd image I could get it into the 27 lb range if I went with carbon parts and wheels but I think a dropper in the next big upgrade for mine. Although a Derby rimmed wheelset would be insane.

    I am happy with my bike and I ride with a lot more confidence over my old Mamba. The margin for rider error seems to be much greater on this bike.
    Very nice! Are you tubeless? I'm curious as to how much weight that saves.

    I am having my LBS put a quote together right now. Stock small Honzo, with a few modifications. SLX brakes, Stans Flow EX rims, and lighter chainguide (thanks all for advice). Probably set up tubeless and replace the Ardent in back with an Ikon.

    Hoping that gets the bike under 30 lbs and the price still reasonable!

  6. #1206
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    ^ Personally I'd ditch the chainguide altogether and get one of the new Raceface narrow/wide rings and a Zee short cage rear derailleur w/clutch. The derailleur itself will prove to be more beneficial for no dropping of the chain, less drivetrain chatter, and much better shifting than the stock Deore unit. Plus the Zee derailleur you can easily find under $80, a new chainguide, not so much. Everything these days is $100+ like the MRP Lopes SL guide.
    konahonzo

  7. #1207
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ^ Personally I'd ditch the chainguide altogether and get one of the new Raceface narrow/wide rings and a Zee short cage rear derailleur w/clutch. The derailleur itself will prove to be more beneficial for no dropping of the chain, less drivetrain chatter, and much better shifting than the stock Deore unit. Plus the Zee derailleur you can easily find under $80, a new chainguide, not so much. Everything these days is $100+ like the MRP Lopes SL guide.
    Thanks for the advice amigo. I do like that idea, and it seems more simplistic.

    Also, I just got the quote back regarding the modifications I originally suggested, and it was a bit more than what I was expecting. Quote was around $2750. I am considering just buying the frame and building myself. I have never built a bike before so I was wondering if it is a very difficult thing to do and whether or not it would be much cheaper in the end.

    Seems like a fun project, but not sure how difficult the cable routing and drivetrain stuff is to figure out. I really dont know much about brakes and derailleurs.

  8. #1208
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    +1 on going with the RaceFace narrow wide rings and also building it yourself. It's much more convenient for me to fix something myself than to haul the bike in and pay and wait for someone else to do it for me. You may not save much on the first build because of the random specialty tools you'll need, like headset press, bb install tool, etc., but if you're like many of us, this Honzo build will most likely will not be your last project. Something else to consider is having the shop do some and not all of the work for you, like said headset and fork install.

  9. #1209
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Thanks for the advice amigo. I do like that idea, and it seems more simplistic.

    Also, I just got the quote back regarding the modifications I originally suggested, and it was a bit more than what I was expecting. Quote was around $2750. I am considering just buying the frame and building myself. I have never built a bike before so I was wondering if it is a very difficult thing to do and whether or not it would be much cheaper in the end.

    Seems like a fun project, but not sure how difficult the cable routing and drivetrain stuff is to figure out. I really dont know much about brakes and derailleurs.
    The Honzo is my third bike I've build myself, definitely not rocket science by any means. Only head into my LBS to have them install headset cups or adjust drivetrain. Everything else is quite simple.

    For $2750 I'd definitely build it myself. Here's a quick run down of what it would cost you, with a better spec than stock for sure. Brakes and crank pricing was from Blueskycycling.com (where I purchased mine from too), wheels from cyclesportsuk.co.uk, everything else but the frame from Chainreactioncycles.com (I use them a ton as well). As for the frame, you can get it from Bikeman.com for $524.

    Here's a quick run down of pricing, I choose all Nukeproof stuff for basis of argument as stems, bars, saddles, seat post, grips are all personal choice and pricing is all over the place with them, but Nukeproof makes quality stuff, definitely lighter than Kona's stock pieces for sure.

    So basically you're looking at a savings of $400 with a much better build and lighter too. Better fork, better wheelset, true 1x10 Short Cage drivetrain w/clutch and narrow/wide chainring.

    konahonzo

  10. #1210
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    +1 on going with the RaceFace narrow wide rings and also building it yourself. It's much more convenient for me to fix something myself than to haul the bike in and pay and wait for someone else to do it for me. You may not save much on the first build because of the random specialty tools you'll need, like headset press, bb install tool, etc., but if you're like many of us, this Honzo build will most likely will not be your last project. Something else to consider is having the shop do some and not all of the work for you, like said headset and fork install.
    Thanks for the advice. Think that could be a good starting point. Main concern is whether or not I'll be able to do most of the work. I can do a lot of quick fix things on the bike, but have literally no knowledge of cable routing, setting up brakes, derailleurs, etc.

    Could be a learning experience, but not sure the outcome will be so good!

  11. #1211
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    The first bike I built was my Honzo. I read a lot about it and just made note of how it came apart. Also, a threaded rod and a stack of 1.5" washers worked as a headset press for me.

  12. #1212
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    The Honzo is my third bike I've build myself, definitely not rocket science by any means. Only head into my LBS to have them install headset cups or adjust drivetrain. Everything else is quite simple.

    For $2750 I'd definitely build it myself. Here's a quick run down of what it would cost you, with a better spec than stock for sure. Brakes and crank pricing was from Blueskycycling.com (where I purchased mine from too), wheels from cyclesportsuk.co.uk, everything else but the frame from Chainreactioncycles.com (I use them a ton as well). As for the frame, you can get it from Bikeman.com for $524.

    Here's a quick run down of pricing, I choose all Nukeproof stuff for basis of argument as stems, bars, saddles, seat post, grips are all personal choice and pricing is all over the place with them, but Nukeproof makes quality stuff, definitely lighter than Kona's stock pieces for sure.

    So basically you're looking at a savings of $400 with a much better build and lighter too. Better fork, better wheelset, true 1x10 Short Cage drivetrain w/clutch and narrow/wide chainring.

    Definitely bookmarking this. I've started purchasing most of these items already. I didnt find an 1x10 SLX crank so I got some Race-Facecrank arms to go with the
    narrow/wide chainring. I havent bought the fork, frame, wheels, or tires yet. Everything else is ordered, but I have the bulk cost and most important items left.

    The Stan's Arch EX Hope Pro 2 definitely seem like a better option for wheel set and appear to be a good amount lighter than the Flow EX. I do like that fork, but was thinking about getting a 120 instead. Undecided on that.

    The handlebar, stem, seatpost are all Easton instead of Nukeproof, but they appear to be nice. Gonna get the frame and fork next. Main concern is doing the shift and brake setup/cables for the first time.

    Thanks again!

  13. #1213
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    I had great experience with the Revelation RCT3 140mm, which can be dropped down to 120mm with spacers. I'd be surprised if the RLT as noted above wasn't the same so it's worth confirming and considering.

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  14. #1214
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I had great experience with the Revelation RCT3 140mm, which can be dropped down to 120mm with spacers. I'd be surprised if the RLT as noted above wasn't the same so it's worth confirming and considering.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
    I think he may have actually meant the RCT3. I looked at the website and at that price point and found the RCT3 for that exact price. RockShox Revelation RCT3 29" Dual Air 1.5" Taper 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles

    I do have a question on the fork and wheels I order. That fork has a 20mm Maxle Lt thruaxle. Do I need to make sure the front tire I gets supports one of those? Does the honzo even support that up front? Also, make sure the rear supports the 142x12?

  15. #1215
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    I do have a question on the fork and wheels I order. That fork has a 20mm Maxle Lt thruaxle. Do I need to make sure the front tire I gets supports one of those? Does the honzo even support that up front? Also, make sure the rear supports the 142x12?
    Not entirely sure what you mean, the 20mm axle has to do with the hub in the front wheel. Most major brands allow the use of 20mm axles.

    The rear of the 2013 and onwards is 142x12mm. The 2012 can take an adapter afaik.

  16. #1216
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    Yep, the axle size is a variable between fork and hub, and nothing to do with the frame. That Rev RCT3 is a tapered fork, and the Honzo's 44mm straight tube ht will accept it.

    The Hope Flow EX combo from Cycle Sports comes 20mm stock up front, but 135 QR for the rear. You'll need the 142mm Thru Axle conversion in this link to convert the rear. They're simply end caps that replace the QR endcaps. Just like the fork comes with a Maxle, the more recent Honzos come with the rear Maxle.

    Hope Pro2 Evo Rear Hub Axle Conversion Kits | Merlin Cycles

  17. #1217
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    I think he may have actually meant the RCT3. I looked at the website and at that price point and found the RCT3 for that exact price. RockShox Revelation RCT3 29" Dual Air 1.5" Taper 2012 | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Yup, typo on my part. I had it confused with my old Revelation that I first bought for my Canfield Yelli build (that never happened) and it was a custom one-off Revelation RLT done by SRAM for a Maxxis employee who I bought it from. Basically the same thing really lol.

    And good call with the Arch EX. With your weight, you should be good to go there.
    konahonzo

  18. #1218
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    Thanks everybody for the advice and help! I ordered the wheels today. I plan to order the fork and frame hopefully tomorrow. I have 2 people coming to look at my '11 Fuel EX 8, so hopefully it sells and I can order the parts and get to work.

    Will provide pictures of the build when complete. Thanks!

  19. #1219
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    If you went with the Arch Ex at CycleSports it comes with a 15mm front instead of 20mm that comes with the Flow EX. You can email them if you need the 20mm end caps and they'll swap it out. FWIW, I'm a lightweight at under 150lbs and still went with a Flow EX mainly because of the much wider rim. The weight difference was I think less than 0.3lbs total, which really isn't much on this type of bike in my opinion.

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  20. #1220
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    If you went with the Arch Ex at CycleSports it comes with a 15mm front instead of 20mm that comes with the Flow EX. You can email them if you need the 20mm end caps and they'll swap it out. FWIW, I'm a lightweight at under 150lbs and still went with a Flow EX mainly because of the much wider rim. The weight difference was I think less than 0.3lbs total, which really isn't much on this type of bike in my opinion.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

    You just saved me! I emailed them and they were able to include the 20mm converter with my shipment right before it left. Thanks!

    Everything has now been ordered. Now the annoying part... waiting. Surprising the frame takes 5-7 days just to actually ship!

  21. #1221
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I had great experience with the Revelation RCT3 140mm, which can be dropped down to 120mm with spacers. I'd be surprised if the RLT as noted above wasn't the same so it's worth confirming and considering.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
    This fork I know has the option to go 120, 130, and 140. I initially was deciding between a 120 and 140 fork... would it be a good idea to split the difference and set this fork up 130?

    Just wasnt sure if that would throw off the geometry of the bike at at al.

    Thanks.

  22. #1222
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    Where did you order the frame from? I wouldn't be surprised if you receive the stuff from UK first. As for the fork, yes, you can split the difference. Just install a 10mm All-travel spacer from SRAM.
    konahonzo

  23. #1223
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    Did you wind up ordering the RCT3 from CRC? If so, try the bike out at 140mm. You always add spacers later and it's one less thing to do while you build your bike. The consensus from this thread is the bike is great at 140mm. Maybe if I service my fork myself I might drop it just to see the difference but it rides awesome right now.

  24. #1224
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    Did you wind up ordering the RCT3 from CRC? If so, try the bike out at 140mm. You always add spacers later and it's one less thing to do while you build your bike. The consensus from this thread is the bike is great at 140mm. Maybe if I service my fork myself I might drop it just to see the difference but it rides awesome right now.
    Yes I ordered the '12 RCT3 from CRC. I'll probably do as you say and just leave it at 140 for now. Just thought it may be a bit much and might gain some climbing ability going down to 130 or 120. I'll test it out though if I can just adjust later.

    @eurospek - I ordered frame from Bikeman.com, as it was literally the only site that had the small frame in stock. Said it may take 2-3 days to ship, but could also take up to 5-7. A long wait for somebody who's patience isnt exactly a strong suit =P

  25. #1225
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    I just posted a 10% coupon code for CRC, too. "USDNOV" It would knock off another $47 or so off that Revelation. Maybe you can call in to apply the code, or just cancel and reorder. +1 on running it at 140. It takes some adjustment on body positioning during the steep climbs, but totally worth it on the downs. First few rides, I too thought about dropping it down to 120, but once I adjusted, it was all smiles from there.

    oh, and I'm going to bet the wheelset comes in first. It took an amazing 2 days from the UK to SoCal. Left on the 16th, arrived on the 18th.

  26. #1226
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    Last edited by mathoss; 11-19-2013 at 07:10 PM.

  27. #1227
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I just posted a 10% coupon code for CRC, too. "USDNOV" It would knock off another $47 or so off that Revelation. Maybe you can call in to apply the code, or just cancel and reorder.
    I emailed CRC after I received my fork and they still retro'd their current coupon code they had at the time. They did not refund the difference in the day to day price because of the rate conversion though. I decided $6 wasn't worth arguing over after they gave me the coupon.

  28. #1228
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzoTom View Post
    Looking for an 2012 18" Honzo frame, been riding a large 2013 for some time but I want something a bit smaller and more nimble for chucking around, can anyone help me out?
    2012 Kona Honzo Frame 18" Brand New | eBay
    konahonzo

  29. #1229
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by mathoss View Post
    This one is for sale... if someone is intesrest..
    Size? Sorry- I can't figure out how to pm via tapatalk.

    Did they change the sizing? I rode a 2013 in small and it was a good fit. Will that geo be the same in the 2012? 2014?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  30. #1230
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    Finished Ordering Parts. Here will be the build:

    Small Frame
    2012 RS Revalation RCT3 Fork 140mm
    Crane Creek 40 Headset
    Easton EA70 Handlebar and Easton Haven Stem
    Race Face Half Nelson Lock on Grips
    Stan's Arch EX 29 Wheels with Hope 2 Hubs
    Maxxis Ardent 29 Tubeless tire setup
    Zee Rear Derailer and 10 speed shifter
    Shimano HG81 10 speed chain
    RaceFace Wide/Narrow Chainring - 10 speed
    RaceFace EX Crank
    Shimano XT Ice Tech M785 Hydraulic Brakes
    XTR Ice Tech Rotors (180mm and 160mm)
    Shimano XTR resin brake pads
    Salsa Pro Moto 2 seatpost
    WTB Saddle


    Can't wait till this thing is done. Gonna be a bit of a frankenstein

  31. #1231
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    Remember to get the right zee derailleur to match the cassette you're using, they only come in two variations. I'm getting 11-36 for my build. You can mate that up with an XT shifter if the Zee or SLX isn't up to par for you.

    If you can wing it Kind Shock has a nice lever operated dropperpost for about $115. Makes alot of difference going down.

  32. #1232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Remember to get the right zee derailleur to match the cassette you're using, they only come in two variations. I'm getting 11-36 for my build. You can mate that up with an XT shifter if the Zee or SLX isn't up to par for you.

    If you can wing it Kind Shock has a nice lever operated dropperpost for about $115. Makes alot of difference going down.
    Thanks, and yes I did. I went 11-36 as well.

    Anybody have pedal recommendations? I've been riding Clipless Shimano M52's for the last 3-4 years or so, but am contemplating possibly going back to platform. I guess I can probably switch the pedals out depending on what trail I ride (tech vs xc type singletrack), but wondered if anybody had feedback for what they like on this bike?

    Thanks.

  33. #1233
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    I decided to join the Honzo bandwagon...

    I scored a 2013 XL Honzo frame from eBay. It is on its way to me as I write.

    I have ordered the following parts for it:

    RockShox Revelation RCT3 Dual Air 140 mm 20mm (and as a spare a RockShox Revelation RL Dual Air 130 mm 20mm, going to do a lot of winter riding in -5...-20 F, want some redundancy in case of fork failure)
    Truvativ Descendant 36T 175 mm cranks (plus a more realistic 32T chainring)
    SRAM GXP bottom bracket
    WTB Frequency i-23 rims, SRAM X9 hubs (20mm front, 142x12 rear)
    XT Shadow 9 spd rear derailleur (chose 9 spd for the thicker, more robust chain)
    XT 9 spd shifter pod
    XT 11-34 cassette
    3T Doric Pro Inline seat post (31.6mm x 400mm)
    WTB SST Racing saddle (I love the down turned nose, does not catch the pants)
    Continental Rubber Queen 2.2" Tyres, folding
    Nukeproof Warhead 44IETS headset
    Crank Brothers Iodine 1 65mm stem (and just in case a shorter Kore B-52 K34 Stem 50 mm)
    Answer Pro Taper XC Trail Riser Bar 685mm 13mm rise
    Hayes Stroker Gram brakes, 203/160 rotors
    WTB Moto-X grips
    XT HG93 9 spd chain
    Truvativ bashguard
    Shimano M530 pedals

    The cost of the parts ordered online and estimated work for building the wheels all comes together at Ç2140/$2850, with one suspension fork and one stem.

    Total weight estimate based on manufacturer specifications and various forum postings comes to 13,9 kg/30,6 lbs.

    This will be my winter commuter and summer trail machine. No mountains where I live, unfortunately.

    I am 6'3" and the XL frame is probably the best for me. I just bought a Cannondale F29 AL 1 in XL and it is just the right size. My 1990s Marin is 21" and Cannondale M800 is 22" so I am definitely in the XL territory.

    I will post photos as the build is done, in a month or so.
    Last edited by sasu; 11-17-2013 at 04:26 AM. Reason: added details

  34. #1234
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    Isn't 32t max?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Isn't 32t max?
    Depends on your strength and conditioning. :-)

    Seriously, though, I hope the 36T chainring will fit as I plan to use it on my urban commute. I have seen 36T builds in this thread.

  36. #1236
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    Oh ok, I read somewhere that 32t was largest one possible to clear on the frame. Happy to hear I'm wrong since I can use my 34t then.

  37. #1237
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    Anybody know if bottom bracket is 68 or 73? I didn't see it on the site and wondering where I need to put spacers. If its a 68 I put 1 spacer on each site right? Its a race face bb.

  38. #1238
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    73mm
    konahonzo

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    Anybody use an Ikon on the back? I was thinking of running a 2.25 Ikon on back for some better rolling resistance, but wanted to get any feedback first. Still gonna use the Ardent 2.4 up front.

  40. #1240
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    I use a Ikon 2.35 for a rear tire. It pairs well with the 2.4 Ardent up front. It is nearly the same size as the Ardent as well. It has a deeper tread pattern than the 2.2 also.

  41. #1241
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    Oh wow, i didnt think the 2.35 would fit. Ok I think I will go with that one as well. Thanks!

  42. #1242
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    I got the 2013 XL frame today. It is beautiful!

    I will take it to the LBS in a couple of days to have the bottom bracket threads chased and the head tube blueprinted, just in case.

    The components are all in the mail, it is a looong wait...

    My wife is not against this build, but she will fly to Milan to buy herself a fur coat that will cost as much as a few Honzos. Just to balance the family budget.

  43. #1243
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Oh wow, i didnt think the 2.35 would fit. Ok I think I will go with that one as well. Thanks!
    Been using WTB Dissent 2.5" since day 1.
    Very tight, but they go.
    Trailwrecker at large

  44. #1244
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    Hmm... I received my frame from Bikeman and it did not come with the rear 142x12 Maxle. My LBS shop said the Frame's usually came with these. I am going to have to purchase one online and they are around $70.

    Is it correct that the frame is supposed to come with this? The bikeman website has no specifications for what should be included, but I find it odd I would get the frame without this piece if it's supposed to be there.

  45. #1245
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    My 2013 frame came with the rear Maxle. It was in a plastic bag taped to the top tube.

  46. #1246
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    Mine came with one too.

  47. #1247
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    Just talked to Bikeman who already talked to Kona about this and apparently the 2014 frames dont come with one.

    Awesome. =(

  48. #1248
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    MV, have you tried to contact Kona directly to verify what Bikeman said? Bikeman seems like a good operation but at that price I would want to make sure myself.
    Last edited by beer_coffee_water; 11-23-2013 at 01:10 PM.

  49. #1249
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Just talked to Bikeman who already talked to Kona about this and apparently the 2014 frames dont come with one.

    Awesome. =(
    That's really weird.. They don't come with wheelsets either most times so essentially it's just another way to squeeze money out of the consumer.

  50. #1250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    That's really weird.. They don't come with wheelsets either most times so essentially it's just another way to squeeze money out of the consumer.
    Yeah, because Maxles usually come with the frame.
    konahonzo

  51. #1251
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    For a small guy, 5'8 140, should I run my Revelationa RCT3 at 130mm or 140? Originally planned to leave at 140, but reading back through this thread I read a few comments about shorter guys having steering/wandering issues with a longer fork.

    I know I can adjust it later but the fork is getting installed tomorrow and I didnt want to take it back in and pay more to add/remove a spacer later on.

  52. #1252
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    Leave it at 140mm, get a short stem and toughen up on the climbs. My Honzo climbs like a goat with a Fox 34 140mm and a 50mm stem. It's all technique really.
    konahonzo

  53. #1253
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    +1 on 140mm. I'm also vertically challenged, but really hasn't been a disadvantage in anyway assuming all other fit-related components are dialed in. I'm running a 40mm stem, small frame. It does take some adjustment on climbing technique, but once you have that down pat, it's a great climber. In fact, I've only been able to clean this one long technical climb with many switchbacks once out of many, many tries on various bikes (80mm rigid, geared, XC, etc.) , and it was on the Honzo at 140mm, set up as SS.

  54. #1254
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    On a small, also 5'9", running 750mm bars 50mm with a RCT3 set 140mm. I can't imagine running my bike any other way. It climbs better than my old xc frame did and on the downs the 140 opens my confidence. FWIW, I would just get the bike built then worry about experimenting after a few months.

  55. #1255
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    Fair enough. I think all this waiting is just driving me nuts. Trying to get a few rides in before the snow really hits here in CO. I think I should be good. I have a 55mm stem and I can easily move a few spacers up if I feel the front end is a smudge tall.

  56. #1256
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    first time posting. have been riding my '13 XL Honzo for several months now and love it. only thing i have changed from the stock build is putting on a Zee RD and shifter. ordered a RS Pike rct3 140 with 51mm offset to replace the stock RS revelation as I found it slightly noodly for my bigness. will post pics as soon as i install the fork! thanks for all the suggestions and posts, really helped me decide to get this wonderful bike!

  57. #1257
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    Here it is. Just finished up...

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imag0356.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imag0355.jpg

    Super excited to ride it tomorrow. With some heavy diamondback flat pedals, it comes in at 28 lbs almost exactly. Not sure if I'm a fan of the blue stuff but makes it look a bit unique at least.

    Thanks for all the help with parts and advice here.

  58. #1258
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    I have the '14 Honzo (love it) and am thinking about mixing up the color scheme from the army tank green/black to having some orange accents (handlebars, seatpost clamp, and chainring). I can't find a 30 tooth chainring that is orange to save my life. Anybody know of any that are out there? And thoughts on if the orange accents would work or look tacky?

  59. #1259
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    if the orange accents would work or look tacky?
    Of course it would look tacky, that is the reason you are doing it, right?

    I have a matt gold 2013 frame and have ordered all the parts I could find in anodized gold. My Honzo will be a puke worthy bling-bling machine. Now to learn to ride so well that it would compensate for the stupid looks of the bike.

  60. #1260
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    Impressions of the Honzo so far (3 rides in):

    1. Man this thing is fun to ride
    2. 29 inch wheels really make things easier
    3. Gonna take some getting used to from FS. The steel helps with the trail chatter, but some rockier trails have made my arms and legs feel like Jello. Got tossed around a little bit. Just need to get stronger.
    4. Climbs like a goat. Very surprised how nimble and good at climbing it is.
    5. This bike will get me in shape. Not in great shape yet, and the 1x10 setup definitely had me feeling the climbs. 32T chainring and 11-36 cassette in back.
    6. This bike will make me a better rider

    I am coming off a 2011 Fuel EX 8 26". I have nothing bad to say about that bike. I loved it and the suspension was truly amazing on that line. I recently finished my Honzo and sold my EX 8. I have only been on 3 rides, and still need to learn and adjust to my new bike.

    So far, the two drawbacks have been the roughness on rocky trails without suspension, and a little less twisty cornerning ability. That said, I feel the Honzo can rail into corners at a faster speed, just not sharper turning. The Honzo climbs better (especially once I get into shape), and I can fly down things. I love the simplicity of it, and it really does feel like a tank. I found myself purposely picking worse lines just to see the Honzo crush what was in front of it.

    Love it so far, need some time to adapt, but I am really really diggin it.
    Last edited by mvallejo; 11-30-2013 at 08:32 PM.

  61. #1261
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    Anybody with a Rockshox Rev 140, what Pressure do you run it at? For my weight (140), it recommended 70-90 and I currently have it at 85. Feels good, only goes up about 3/4... I've never owned a RS fork and I didnt know if there was any important feedback I was missing.

    Also, what is good for rebound. I tried googling but had a hard time sorting through the junk. The fork appeared to have about 13 clicks (though hard to tell as some seemed like lesser clicks, if that makes sense). I set mine all the way to slow, then went 7 clicks the opposite way.

  62. #1262
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    My negative was 10 more than positive for much better small bump compliance. I don't remember what I had for rebound though.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

  63. #1263
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    Didn't want to start a whole new thread so I thought I'd post this here, hopefully that's cool.

    How would a large 2013 honzo fit someone that's 5'8''? I've found a sweet deal on one locally and would like to snatch it up but I don't really have an opportunity to try it out as there's 5-6 inches of snow on the ground now. Would the frame be too big for me?

  64. #1264
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    I'm 6'/32" inseam and I ride an 18", my wife is 5'10"/31" inseam and also rides an 18". The 18" fits us well, I'd ride an 18" even if I had another inch or so of inseam, but anything bigger would be too big.

    These bikes are long in the TT and are already sporting a short stem (55mm), I went down to a 45mm stem to improve quick handling, so anything longer would really stretch me out; I have long arms, normal torso.

  65. #1265
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    I'm 5'8 and a ride a small and it fits really well. From everything I read, they run big, so I went for a small (I usually get a M or 17.5 for other bikes), but this fits really well.

  66. #1266
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    Foir fit, the stock Honzo set up is a good place to start, 55mm stem and wide bars (740?). I run a 45mm on my Taro, but kept the 55mm on the Honzo, 720mm Fleegle bars on both. The Honzo is a smoother rider downhill, perhaps a little less agile in the twisty stuff than the Taro, but also more stable and has less of a mind to head for trees.

    My HOnzo is gold frame, red parts, all blend in together to fit very well with the orange lettering. I had to order a new rear hub this week, the Formula was trashed by the previous owner, broken pawls and such, apparently this is not uncommon. I found a set of Hope Evos in red for $250 new, so I'm a wheel rebuilding this weekend

    I'm running a Narrow Wide RF chainring on both bikes, no chain drops to date, the chain on the Taro is shortened by one link, the chain in the Honzo is stock length. The Taro chain is within one link of being "as tight as it should get" so it makes a single speed buzz. The Honzo chain is long, probably too long, so I'l be busting a few links out this weekend.

    In terms of climbing, I have found the Honzo to be a very agile uphill rider, better than the Taro, but to be fair I also have the Honzo drop outs in the furthest rearward position. I really can't complain about this bike, it fits, it rides well, and though it's a bit porky, it doesn't ride heavy. A long day in the saddle can be "jarring", but I think that has more to do with the terrain (rooty and rocky) than it does the bike.

    The only downside in my mind is the low BB, I end up with a fair number of pedal strikes, but the low BB also handles better, so it's a trade off. It sure does handle nice for a 29er, makes me think that for all those people who are "bah humbug" on 29ers, that they need to take a short chainstay 29er for a spin! Big wheels rule

  67. #1267
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    I got my Pike in today along with a full set of black Hope trimmings, can't wait to get off work so I can start wrenching.

  68. #1268
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    I'm 5'8 and a ride a small and it fits really well. From everything I read, they run big, so I went for a small (I usually get a M or 17.5 for other bikes), but this fits really well.
    Damn, so that means a large will be too big.

    There's probably no way of adjusting for that with a way short stem then? Other parts of the geometry will be out of whack I guess.

  69. #1269
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    it already has a short stem. a large will be way too big for you.

  70. #1270
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    2013 Large with 140 Fox, P35/Hadley wheels, etc etc.
    it rules
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpg

  71. #1271
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    Why using a chainguide with a Narrowwide?

  72. #1272
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    Valid question. I had that setup before the NW rings came in stock.
    Now I just keep it there for the bash.

  73. #1273
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Nony Moose View Post
    2013 Large with 140 Fox, P35/Hadley wheels, etc etc.
    it rules
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  74. #1274
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    Nony Moose: veery nice.

    Mvallejo: I am 5'9" and test rode a Medium and Small, both stock with the 120 forks. I am planning on putting a 140 on mine and there is no way I could do that on the Medium. As it was, I was nearly maxxed out on stand over on the Medium and it felt long (even with the short stem). With a 140, I wouldn't be able to clear the top tube standing over the bike.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  75. #1275
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    The Honzo is not very large.

    I ride an XL Cannondale F29. With the 110mm stem the horizontal distance from handlebar center to seat post center is 74 cm.

    I am just finishing the build on my 2013 XL Honzo. With a 50 mm stem the horizontal distance from handlebar center to seat post center is 69 cm, 5 cm shorter than the Cannondale.

    I am going to change the Cannondale stem to 90 mm, and then the Honzo will still be 3 cm shorter than the Cannondale. The Cannondale is my "race" bike so the long and low riding position is just right.

    Having made these measurements I am glad that I bought the XL Honzo, not the L size. I am 6'3".

    My build stopped for now as I do not have the tools to force the stem star nut into the steering tube, and I need to buy an 8" postmount to postmount brake adapter for the front (I erroneously bought an IS to postmount adapter). I should get those two done tomorrow.

    I decided to make the bike tacky so I have used as many gold anodized parts as I could find: handlebar, seatpost clamp, stem spacers, brake disc bolts.

    As it is winter and snowing already and I will use the bike to commute through the winter, I put on Nokia Extreme 294 spiked tires. Very Honzo, I think.

    I cannot wait to get this bike done and go on the first ride. Thank you all for the inspiration!

  76. #1276
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    I have the '14 Honzo (love it) and am thinking about mixing up the color scheme from the army tank green/black to having some orange accents (handlebars, seatpost clamp, and chainring). I can't find a 30 tooth chainring that is orange to save my life. Anybody know of any that are out there? And thoughts on if the orange accents would work or look tacky?
    I knew I would find you on this thread... go with the orange if you haven't already, it'll look great. You should consider up'ing the fork to 140mm too, it would be a big confidence booster!

  77. #1277
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    I have almost completed this build, only front brake adapter and stem cap and star nut are missing.

    The weight is 14.9 kg, 32.8 lbs.

    The build is like this:

    RockShox Revelation RL Dual Air 130 mm 20mm
    Truvativ Descendant 36T 175 mm cranks
    SRAM GXP bottom bracket
    WTB Frequency i-23 rims, SRAM X9 hubs (20mm front, 142x12 rear), 2.0mm unbutted spokes
    XT Shadow 9 spd rear derailleur
    XT 9 spd shifter pod
    XT 11-34 cassette
    Ritchey seat post (31.6mm x 400mm)
    WTB SST Racing saddle
    Nokia Extreme 294 front and W240 rear studded tires, probably heavy as hell
    Nukeproof Warhead 44IETS headset
    Kore B-52 K34 Stem 50 mm
    Kore Torsion ED Gold 800 mm handlebar
    Hayes Stroker Gram brakes, Hayes 203/160 rotors
    WTB Moto-X grips
    XT HG93 9 spd chain
    e*thirteen LS1+ chain retention device
    Shimano M530 pedals

    Photos will follow when I complete the build and when it is light enough on the street to shoot photos.

  78. #1278
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    I've read earlier in the thread that reaming and facing was a necessity on the frames, happy to report that I didn't have to do a thing to mine

  79. #1279
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    I just swapped out the 32 tooth chainring to a race face narrow wide 30tooth ring and dropped the chainring. Will I have to have links removed from my chain to accommodate for losing this tension in the chain?

  80. #1280
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    Do you have a clutch?

  81. #1281
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasu View Post
    I have almost completed this build, only front brake adapter and stem cap and star nut are missing.

    The weight is 14.9 kg, 32.8 lbs.

    The build is like this:

    RockShox Revelation RL Dual Air 130 mm 20mm
    Truvativ Descendant 36T 175 mm cranks
    SRAM GXP bottom bracket
    WTB Frequency i-23 rims, SRAM X9 hubs (20mm front, 142x12 rear), 2.0mm unbutted spokes
    XT Shadow 9 spd rear derailleur
    XT 9 spd shifter pod
    XT 11-34 cassette
    Ritchey seat post (31.6mm x 400mm)
    WTB SST Racing saddle
    Nokia Extreme 294 front and W240 rear studded tires, probably heavy as hell
    Nukeproof Warhead 44IETS headset
    Kore B-52 K34 Stem 50 mm
    Kore Torsion ED Gold 800 mm handlebar
    Hayes Stroker Gram brakes, Hayes 203/160 rotors
    WTB Moto-X grips
    XT HG93 9 spd chain
    e*thirteen LS1+ chain retention device
    Shimano M530 pedals

    Photos will follow when I complete the build and when it is light enough on the street to shoot photos.
    Looked up the tires. About 1800 g for the pair.
    No moss...

  82. #1282
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Do you have a clutch?
    yeah, i still have the stock RD (shimano shadow deore)

  83. #1283
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    I took my newly built Honzo for the first spin. It was just along urban bike tracks, snow covered and icy, though. Did several locked front wheel slides, among other antics. What a bike! I do not know why, yet, but the bike feels like a clown on steroids.

    My Cannondale F29 feels like a serious racer, pushes the rider to go faster and faster. The Honzo, on the other hand, begs you to turn, jump, twist, slide, brake, accelerate, laugh your head off. The Honzo feels solid like a tank and quick like a fly. Kona, you have created magic!

    About sizing... I am 6'3" and ride XL and 21-22" size mountain bikes. The XL Honzo is just the right size. The effective length feels maybe a bit short even with a 65 mm stem, I will probably try a longer stem one of these days. The frame could not be any smaller for me.

    By the way, my heel hit the gear cable by the derailleur, so I had to flatten the cable closer to the frame to keep it clear of my shoe.

  84. #1284
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    Quote Originally Posted by ynot89 View Post
    yeah, i still have the stock RD (shimano shadow deore)
    I'd give it a spin then, moving up or down only 2t shouldn't give you too many issues if any. With my XX1 I can swap chainrings within 2t of eachother and not have problems.

  85. #1285
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    Update time


    A dozen or so rides and love the bike more every time. The short chain stay playfulness is incredibly addictive, it still surprises me how such a heavy duty steel beast can want to hop, launch and fly down even pretty aggro SoCal rocky trails.


  86. #1286
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Honzo porn.







    Wide 800 mm handlebar


    Signaling device in case of pedestrians on the daily commute






    Left some spacers so the fork steering tube would fit some other bike in the future, too










    Spikes for the winter commute


    Lights, lights, lights... and reflectors






    The Clown on Steroids

  87. #1287
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Only about a week left for the wheels to be completed and I will be riding mine...build is currently:

    14 honzo 20"
    14 revelation fork
    Shimano deore brakes
    Stans flow ex with Chris king hubs
    Shimano deore crankset 32t
    20t Chris king ss cog
    Ardent tires
    Easton havoc carbon bars
    Kona seatpost & stem
    Specialized henge seat

    I bought a complete and sold off the parts that I didn't want/need. I still haven't ridden it so I hope I will like it! It will be a tank for a single speed, but I didn't want flexy rims for my 200lb self. Should be a fun do everything winter/ training/ backup bike to complement my 6" bike. I think it will come in heavier than my 6" bike too ....even as a single speed.

  88. #1288
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    Seat post clamp recommendation? My stock kona one slips like crazy. I'm getting a dropper for X mas and don't want to have crank down on the seat tube so badly.

  89. #1289
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Seat post clamp recommendation? My stock kona one slips like crazy. I'm getting a dropper for X mas and don't want to have crank down on the seat tube so badly.
    Clean your post and seat post tube, use some assembly grease, very light coating. The stock QR is pretty strong, you can get stronger ones but unless you clean up the other stuff, no clamp will be strong enough.

    I use a Hope QR, it has a brass bushing, so it doesn't get all chewed up like a Salsa.

    Seat posts should move so that a crash doesn't break anything, just saying...

  90. #1290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Seat post clamp recommendation? My stock kona one slips like crazy. I'm getting a dropper for X mas and don't want to have crank down on the seat tube so badly.
    Chromag QR. Zero slips. Best I've ever used. As for the dropper, I'd skip carbon anti-slip paste if it's recommended by the brand. SRAM suggests to use it with the Reverb and I've had nothing but creaks for half a year dealing with it. Too little tension and the post slipped and creaked, too much tension it also creaked. A thin coating of grease on the post, the Chromag QR clamped tightly and zero slips and the Reverb works smoothly as well.
    konahonzo

  91. #1291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Seat post clamp recommendation? My stock kona one slips like crazy. I'm getting a dropper for X mas and don't want to have crank down on the seat tube so badly.
    Toothpaste works. Solved my slipping issues.

  92. #1292
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    I just finished rebuilding the wheels on my used 2012 Honzo, the stock Formula rear hub was hash (broken pawls) so I got some Hope Evos for $250 and relaced both wheels. Added a 400mm seat post, a Hope QR seat post collar, a RF NW 32 chainring, new chain (may need a new gear set), On One Fleegle bars, and some Nuke Proof Electron pedals.

    also have a Taro which my wife is riding, both bikes are mediums, I'm 6' and the wife is 5'10", the stem on the Taro is 35mm, the Honzo is running a stock length stem. The two bikes ride very similar, though the Honzo has the better fork and a tad more BB height, whereas the Taro is a little lighter.

    I love my Honzo! There are times when I wish I had a lower gear, even contemplated a 42t rear cog, but it's not a big deal, I can work a little harder and stand a little more, it's really all about the down

  93. #1293
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    Can you increase the stock rockshox revelation rl solo air fork that comes with the honzo to 140mm. Im having trouble finding this online. I can only find info for increasing travel for the dual air version.

    thanks.

  94. #1294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Update time


    A dozen or so rides and love the bike more every time. The short chain stay playfulness is incredibly addictive, it still surprises me how such a heavy duty steel beast can want to hop, launch and fly down even pretty aggro SoCal rocky trails.


    I'm right there with you. I luckily got out of Colorado to California this winter so I have been able to ride it about a dozen times now, and I love it more every time. It is such a steel beast! Thought it would be rough to ride these rocky clay trails on a hardtail, but I was wrong. Everybody I see rides these $5k FS carbon and alum bikes and look at me like im crazy.

    This thing shreds. I seriously am loving it. Only thing I wish I had done when I built was maybe go with a 30T chainring. I currently have the 32T narrow/wide which is awesome, but could use a bit better climbing in some situations. Oh well, just gonna make me stronger.

  95. #1295
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    My first post, and I'm proud it's of my Honzo in progress!

    2013 Honzo L
    Most parts are being used for now from my XTC 29er.
    Stans flow rims on Hope pro2 evo hubs (qr for now but 142 maxle on the way)
    On One Smorgasbord Trail extreme dual compound tyres 2.35
    XT (9 spd) drivetrain, with race face narrow wide 32T ring
    Giant dropper post
    Nukeproof headset
    Marzocchi Bomber 44 tst2 (waiting on a part to give me adjustable travel) then will sit at 120mm
    Raceface Atlas freeride bars
    Stem still to be decided on (DMR conrod is holding front end together but just mocked up)
    XT brakes, XT front rotor, superstar rear.
    weight 30.4lb






    Itching to get this done and out on some Peak district rock/mud!

  96. #1296
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmxmitch View Post
    Btw, thats my ride right now. New pedals and cranks should follow soon.


    That stem!!!! now looking for one for mine!

  97. #1297
    Nor­wegr
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  98. #1298
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    Many thanks Vegard... trawling for used ones first if at all possible!

  99. #1299
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    Damn these bikes look super nice! Honzo on the list of hardtails i'm looking at! Not familiar with Kona Bikes...
    SWING YOUR LEG OVER IT AND PEDAL

  100. #1300
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    I have Shimano Saint hubs and DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes on order, Sun Ringle MTX 33 36 hole rim for the back, WTB Frequency i-25 32 hole rim for the front already waiting and just ordered Maxxis Minion DHF 29x2.5 and DHR II 29x2.3 tires.

    These new Saint/MTX 33/i-25 wheels will be for summer clowning in the woods. Should be strong enough for a bit of hammering.

    The X9 hubbed WTB Frequency i-23 wheels the bike is wearing now have studded Nokian tires for winter commuting, and will have some moderate tires for summertime commutes.
    Last edited by sasu; 01-04-2014 at 11:38 AM.

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