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  1. #1101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fish111 View Post
    The more I ride this the more I love it. Adjustable travel fork definitely helps with how 140mm of travel wanders on the steep climbs.
    I've heard this quite often about the wandering front end due to long travel forks but I can't say I've noticed this or aware of what this actually means. Is it more of an issue while seated climbing and not or less noticeable while standing climbing? Can adjusting technique help out more than adjusting travel?

  2. #1102
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    I've heard this quite often about the wandering front end due to long travel forks but I can't say I've noticed this or aware of what this actually means. Is it more of an issue while seated climbing and not or less noticeable while standing climbing? Can adjusting technique help out more than adjusting travel?
    I also have the Climb Trail Descend feature on the revelation, I find that it helps less than dropping down the travel. I only notice the wandering with either steep or long climbs if I get lazy, not hunched over enough over the bars when seated or not standing on short steep stuff.

  3. #1103
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    I also run lower than recommended pressures 90-95+/95- even with the lower pressures I still am only getting around 20% sag. The fork still rides high and hitting smaller drops and jumps doesn't use all of its travel. I started out at 115 in each. I weigh 185 lbs and am running the fork at 140mm.
    Sounds about right. The fork hesitates on big hits and square edge bumps for me.

  4. #1104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fish111 View Post
    The more I ride this the more I love it. Adjustable travel fork definitely helps with how 140mm of travel wanders on the steep climbs.
    What fork are you running?

  5. #1105
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILVMTB View Post
    What fork are you running?
    2013 rock shoks revelation rct3 dual air 110-140mm

  6. #1106
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    s

    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    It does not. Some folks have been using Frame Saver and others mention using automotive fogging oil.
    See Post 809
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here
    Last edited by superstar1; 09-14-2013 at 10:15 AM. Reason: spelling

  7. #1107
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    Quote Originally Posted by superstar1 View Post
    To put your mind at ease, I didn't use anything. I was just answering somebody's question about the frame being internally coated and pointed out what others have done.

  8. #1108
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    To put your mind at ease, I didn't use anything. I was just answering somebody's question about the frame being internally coated and pointed out what others have done.
    It's well over the top, I've been riding steel frames all my life (I'm 53 now) and my frames have yet to disintegrate into a pile of rust.

  9. #1109
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    The anti-nerd and beer in me has held off long enough to some of the recent questions/concerns in this thread.

    As @superstar1 says your f***ing Honzo won't disintegrate into dust. Are you people trying to keep your bikes showroom perfect? Get out and ride your f***ing bikes like you stole them! You'll enjoy them way better that way!
    I've done shit all to my frame in regards to rust protection. I ride in a temperate rain forest and my Honzo has shown a very minimal amount of rust in 2 seasons. Even after serious spray washing.

    As to the fork height and wandering/climbing conundrum, get the f**k over yourself. Really!
    You're complaining about a 140mm/120mm fork wandering on climbs...!
    F**k, I regularly pedal my freeride bike with a 180mm fork on sustained steep technical climbs and don't have much issue. My suggestion, learn to change your position on your bike to stop any front end "wandering". There is a reason why saddles have a rounded nose.
    When I climb my Honzo I'm f***ing blown away at how well it climbs on sustained steep trails.
    For those of you wondering or complaining about wandering front ends in regards to climbing with the Honzo you shoulda just stuck with a 90mm fork on a race XC HT bike. OR you can f***ing move forward on your saddle to keep the front end planted.

    Just so you know I ride the f**k outta my Honzo in Whistler.
    Every bit of the 2000ft+ descents I do I climb my 140mm Rev with no wandering. Do you know why?.... 'cause I know how to change position on my saddle/bike when the grade of steepness changes.


    /rant... for now.

    ........


    On a side note I have the stock 2012 Revelation Dual Air fork and I run slightly less air pressure than listed on the fork for my weight. I run 132-135psi in the positive chamber and 20psi more in the negative chamber. I'm 245lbs and ride very aggressively on my Honzo. I bottom the fork only occasionally. And I service my fork regularly so it performs beautifully all the time.








    Ahhhhh, that feels better.
    Now, gimme whatchya got.



    Oh, I forgot, mountain biking is seriouzzz biznizzz.

  10. #1110
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    I agree, just ride your bike. Sure, messing with the bike is fun but in the end, just ride.

    Next time you feel like that, RideEverything, would you please keep the language to yourself. I know several kids who read this stuff.

    Thanks

  11. #1111
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILVMTB View Post
    I agree, just ride your bike. Sure, messing with the bike is fun but in the end, just ride.

    Next time you feel like that, RideEverything, would you please keep the language to yourself. I know several kids who read this stuff.

    Thanks
    I agree, stop fecking swearing, there's fecking kids on here!!!!!!

  12. #1112
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I run 132-135psi in the positive chamber and 20psi more in the negative chamber. I'm 245lbs and ride very aggressively on my Honzo. I bottom the fork only occasionally. And I service my fork regularly so it performs beautifully all the time.
    Do you find having 20psi more in the negative allows the fork to have better small bump performance? Still getting full travel?

    I have basically the same fork, Revelation RLT with DNA damper. It can take some serious abuse, and I really don't notice fork flex at all.

    What are you doing for fork service on a regular basis? Seals and oil?

  13. #1113
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    Do you find having 20psi more in the negative allows the fork to have better small bump performance? Still getting full travel?

    I have basically the same fork, Revelation RLT with DNA damper. It can take some serious abuse, and I really don't notice fork flex at all.

    What are you doing for fork service on a regular basis? Seals and oil?
    I started running only 15psi more in the negative chamber as per the manual but I found that the fork suffered in the small bump performance. I found the fork to be too stiff off the top of the stroke for how I rode. I slowly raised the pressure difference in the negative chamber until I got the feeling I wanted from the fork. That turned out to be a 20-22psi difference.
    I do get full travel and I'm running my fork at 140mm.
    It might be a void-warranty air pressure setup but the fork has been trucking along fine for the last 2 seasons.

    As for flex I do notice it. I notice a decent amount of torsional flex. I notice the torsional flex most when riding tech lines where I have to change lines quickly. There is a delay from when I turn the bars to when the wheel starts to turn. And sometimes that isn't what I need in higher speed hairy sections!
    But I'm a big guy and ride quite aggressively. And, I probably... no, I do ride this fork beyond what it is classed for.
    On big hard charging descents I out ride this fork regularly. I can tell because my wrists take a beating and are crazy sore after rides like that!

    For servicing my fork I don't do anything fancy. I just do the normal drop the lowers, clean and lube the seals/dust wipers, lube the foam rings and change the oil. I do that about every 2 weeks. I run the full 8ml of oil in both legs in the lowers.
    I'm a mtb coach so my bikes see a lot of mileage. I also ride all the time during my free time.
    Once you have had the feeling of a well serviced fork you become quite picky and start seriously maintaining your suspension!
    I also change the damper oil twice a season. That actually does make a big difference in how the fork performs.

    I'm a fan of Rockshox forks because they are so easy to service by the home mechanic and the accompanying YouTube videos have the info to make it dead simple to work on the forks.

  14. #1114
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILVMTB View Post
    I agree, just ride your bike. Sure, messing with the bike is fun but in the end, just ride.

    Next time you feel like that, RideEverything, would you please keep the language to yourself. I know several kids who read this stuff.

    Thanks
    I just found it seriously entertaining about the wandering "issue".
    Yeah, a tall fork and a slack HA can and does lead to some front end wandering on steep climbs. However, the fork on the Honzo isn't that tall nor is the Honzo all that slack in the grand scheme of things.
    The issue can be solved by a change in position on the bike and riding technique. That is why I went on a rant. It isn't the equipment nor the geo of this bike it's the technique/position of the rider that makes the biggest difference.
    I have a pedalable freeride bike with a 65* HA with a Totem. I pedal this bike uphill regularly. I really have to make sure to shift my position forward to make climbing it manageable. I'm not looking for a hero biscuit because I can pedal this bike uphill. I just find it funny that people are worried about the Honzo's front end wandering.
    The Honzo does not wander on steep climbs unless you suck at riding a bike.

    I love the tech nerdery as much as the next person in this thread and on this site.
    But sometimes the misinformation and so called issues that get discussed here are laughable!
    Could I have been more polite in my rant? Yes, but where is the fun in that. Sometimes the boat needs to rocked to liven things up.

    I'm not going to apologize for my language. In fact I actually laughed out loud in real life when I read your comment about the kids!
    If I could figure out how to embed a gif sarcastically responding to that one sentence I would!

  15. #1115
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I just found it seriously entertaining about the wandering "issue".
    Yeah, a tall fork and a slack HA can and does lead to some front end wandering on steep climbs. However, the fork on the Honzo isn't that tall nor is the Honzo all that slack in the grand scheme of things.
    The issue can be solved by a change in position on the bike and riding technique. That is why I went on a rant. It isn't the equipment nor the geo of this bike it's the technique/position of the rider that makes the biggest difference.
    I have a pedalable freeride bike with a 65* HA with a Totem. I pedal this bike uphill regularly. I really have to make sure to shift my position forward to make climbing it manageable. I'm not looking for a hero biscuit because I can pedal this bike uphill. I just find it funny that people are worried about the Honzo's front end wandering.
    The Honzo does not wander on steep climbs unless you suck at riding a bike.

    I love the tech nerdery as much as the next person in this thread and on this site.
    But sometimes the misinformation and so called issues that get discussed here are laughable!
    Could I have been more polite in my rant? Yes, but where is the fun in that. Sometimes the boat needs to rocked to liven things up.

    I'm not going to apologize for my language. In fact I actually laughed out loud in real life when I read your comment about the kids!
    If I could figure out how to embed a gif sarcastically responding to that one sentence I would!

  16. #1116
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    Quote Originally Posted by RideEverything View Post
    I started running only 15psi more in the negative chamber as per the manual but I found that the fork suffered in the small bump performance. I found the fork to be too stiff off the top of the stroke for how I rode.
    That's my biggest beef with the fork. I have to jack the negative pressure to get the fork to run how I like it. My wrists and hands do hurt after a ride with a ton of big roots and harder hits as well.
    I've got rebound(dual flow) and compression adjust. It's also got the threshold lockout feature but I never use it.

    I'm pretty sure the rebound and compression adjustment are slow speed only... but I am no expert.

    I've got about 9 clicks from fast on rebound and 1 click of compression adjust.


    Have you thought about upgrading the fork on the bike? I often wonder if a Fox 34 or new pike would be a worthwhile investment on an agressive HT like a Honzo or Yelli screamy. I've heard the new 2014 fox stuff is better than the CTD from years past, and have heard all positive reviews on the new pike damper.

  17. #1117
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    Somebody recommended I build one of these Konas, I am 6 foot 4 and real long legged and 285. Any help would be great. I need to go forward for what I do and do not know what to buy. I just ride my bike all over town and make my own trail and take short cuts and jump curbs and stairs and steps.

    I do not trust the frame to jump, being 285 do I need a custom? These bikes look nice a person told me they were real stable for high speed going down stairs n stuff? and real tough frame for a large person? any input would be great, thanks for any help.

    I am a sit down masher and blast at top speed type rider, what I am riding now works good but I think I can do better.

    Somehow this post did not turn out right in it's order, anyhow thanks if you can understand it.

    I have a 23 inch RH 26 with Sun 29 MTX 33's and 40 CM tires and Hope Pro 2 Hubs. I like it but want something lower and better to jump and go up and down steps.

  18. #1118
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    That's my biggest beef with the fork. I have to jack the negative pressure to get the fork to run how I like it. My wrists and hands do hurt after a ride with a ton of big roots and harder hits as well.
    I've got rebound(dual flow) and compression adjust. It's also got the threshold lockout feature but I never use it.

    I'm pretty sure the rebound and compression adjustment are slow speed only... but I am no expert.

    I've got about 9 clicks from fast on rebound and 1 click of compression adjust.


    Have you thought about upgrading the fork on the bike? I often wonder if a Fox 34 or new pike would be a worthwhile investment on an agressive HT like a Honzo or Yelli screamy. I've heard the new 2014 fox stuff is better than the CTD from years past, and have heard all positive reviews on the new pike damper.
    Haha, and I thought it was "upgraditis" that was hurting my hands and wrists, and not how my Revelation pos/neg pressures were set up. I'd also like to hear back from those who have gone from a Rev to a Pike or '14 Fox 34.

  19. #1119
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    I think bikes like this:Tested: Scott Genius LT 27.5 - Pinkbike are the product of such climbing wimps. According to PB it climbs terrifically but whats the point if it sucks going DH (which it does)

  20. #1120
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    Have you thought about upgrading the fork on the bike? I often wonder if a Fox 34 or new pike would be a worthwhile investment on an agressive HT like a Honzo or Yelli screamy. I've heard the new 2014 fox stuff is better than the CTD from years past, and have heard all positive reviews on the new pike damper.
    As far as I know, most of the time, when there is one adjustment it is slow speed. I'm not a 100% but that is how it feels and what I've read.

    I have thought about upgrading but I'll ride the Rev into the ground before I drop the cash on a new fork. Yes, there are better products out there but the Rev does the job and it does it reasonably well.
    The new Pike does sound very good. I was looking at the Fox34 but the ease of servicing Rockshox forks at home has me leaning towards the Pike.

  21. #1121
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  22. #1122
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    Well it's been a long time but I finally found the time to get it built. I fired up to get out and ride it! Here are the specs....hopefully it will hold up to my clyde status of 6'5" 275

    Frame: 20L
    Wheels: Flow laced to Hadley 36h front and rear
    Tires: Specialized Ground Control 2.3
    Drivetrain:Saint short cage rear derailluer... Ispec Saint Shifter
    Fork: Fox Float 34 140
    Stem/Bars: Easton Havoc 35mm stem and Carbon Havoc Bars
    Headset: Cane Creek
    BB: Hope
    Cranks: AKA
    Front Ring: 28t MRP Bling Ring
    Guard: MRP Micro G2
    Brakes: Zee with Ice Rotors 203 front , 180 rear
    Seatpost: Thompson
    Saddle: Charge Spoon
    Seatpost Clamp: Chromag
    Pedals: DMR Vault
    Chain: KMC TI
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpg  

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-image.jpg  


  23. #1123
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I thought I was gonna see some shreddin when I saw a youtube link

    Zee derailleur ftw! I also run one, with a wolftooth upfront and no chain guide. Crispy shifting and silent rides!

  24. #1124
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    Please let me know what size is the FRAME?
    Quote Originally Posted by Fish111 View Post
    New 2014 frame ready for build

  25. #1125
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    Hate to bump up an old thread, but for a 5'9 30" inseam would you fellas recommend a 16 or 18" Honzo?

    Thx!

  26. #1126
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    Aboard my 2013 Honzo.

    Name:  9482218529_50d152f069.jpg
Views: 2313
Size:  166.6 KB

    Recently upgraded drivetrain:
    30T Wolftooth Components Chainring
    Sram X9 Shifter with Shimano Zee 10spd Derailler
    Shimano 12-36 Cassette

    Love this ride!
    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  27. #1127
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Love it! Any change between the Renthal bar and your old Raceface Atlas Stealth?

    Quote Originally Posted by sheranian View Post
    Well it's been a long time but I finally found the time to get it built.
    Nice build, have you played around with the spacers below the stem? When I had the Fox 34 Talas at 140 initially when I built the bike, I had a tall CC40 upper cup and like 20 mm worth of spacers, it was very awkward at first. I couldn't weigh down the front enough, and when I ditched the 34 Talas for a 34 Float I slammed the stem with only a 2.5mm spacer and it was much better until finally settling at 10mm of spacers and a short CC40 upper cup. Play around with it, you might be surprised with the findings.
    konahonzo

  28. #1128
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Aboard my 2013 Honzo.
    Name:  9482218529_50d152f069.jpg
Views: 2313
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    Is that at Hartland, The Dump?

  29. #1129
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    [QUOTE=eurospek;10696582]Love it! Any change between the Renthal bar and your old Raceface Atlas Stealth?

    Stiffness is the same, but I like the 2 degree difference in backsweep because it equates to 5+ mm larger cockpit.

  30. #1130
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    The Abyss in Nanaimo
    Rollin just to keep on rollin'. I don't want to leave this heaven so soon. - Mark Lanegan

  31. #1131
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    very nice pic!

    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Aboard my 2013 Honzo.

    Name:  9482218529_50d152f069.jpg
Views: 2313
Size:  166.6 KB

    Recently upgraded drivetrain:
    30T Wolftooth Components Chainring
    Sram X9 Shifter with Shimano Zee 10spd Derailler
    Shimano 12-36 Cassette

    Love this ride!

  32. #1132
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    Quote Originally Posted by stick-boy1 View Post
    Aboard my 2013 Honzo.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]833958[/ATTACH
    Recently upgraded drivetrain:
    30T Wolftooth Components Chainring
    Sram X9 Shifter with Shimano Zee 10spd Derailler
    Shimano 12-36 Cassette

    Love this ride!
    Kev you poser!!! HAHAHA

  33. #1133
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    Quote Originally Posted by verrocchio100 View Post
    Hate to bump up an old thread, but for a 5'9 30" inseam would you fellas recommend a 16 or 18" Honzo?

    Thx!
    FWIW, I am 5'9" with a 30" pants inseam and bought a small (16"). The new frame measures 15" for the seat tube but all other geo is the same as the 2012 for a small. I test rode both a 2013 16" and 18" at felt comfortable on both sizes. The 16" had more attributes I was after. If you have read the whole thread us 5'9" guys use either a 16" or an 18". Hopefully the subjective answer helps you.

  34. #1134
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    I'm 5'9" and love the 16". Much more flickable
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  35. #1135
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    yes, the 18" feels like a boat compared to the 16". my buddy bought an 18 after test-riding my 16. can't say i liked the way it rode in comparison.

  36. #1136
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    My build is coming...

    I fell in love with the frame when it was first released but I had already bought a bike. Recently, I decided that maybe 29er were not for me and I sold my Intense Spider 29 frame. I decided I was going to build a 650b trailbike with some of the parts from the Intense but that project ate up funds quickly. I was out of cash and sick of riding ss or fatbikes all the time so I found a Honzo at a good price to build up until I can get the funds together for the 650b bike. I am just waiting on a few more parts to arrive but I did get my frame.

    I'll post again next week with the results.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-img_2910.jpg

    Can't wait!

  37. #1137
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    Upgraditis has struck! I'm in the process of making a new front wheel and re-spoking the rear on my honzo. The orange Chris King rear hub stays. The kinda flaky Marzocchi QR20 knock-off front hub and hand-me-down Flow rim are going to get mothballed, replaced with an NOS NSB hub on a Flow EX laced with 14-15-13 DT Alpine iii spokes. Same rim/spoke combo for the rear rebuild too (I got the box of spokes).

    While the wheel is off, I'm doing a dropout experiment. I'm going to cut some raised sliders to see if a scosch more bb height is any good.

    It's time to re-seal the Rev too! Gotta get some more 5w suspension oil first though. Thinking of going with Redline if I can find some.

    Oh, and new grips.

  38. #1138
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    Update

    Still no final build but I did get out on her first trail ride yesterday with a mish mash of parts. 28T Wolftooth no drop with X9 crankset and X0 NON clutched der absolutely ruled. So quiet!!! No chain slap and no drops as advertised. We have valleys to ride here so we are usually either climbing or descending, both at decent pitches. 28T front, 36T back was perfect. I was worried about the slacker head angle but I made it up really steep pitches that I have had problems with in the past. It definitely is the only 29er I have ridden that feels quite 26'ish.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-wofltooth.jpeg

  39. #1139
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    First night ride last night and now I understand the "low bb peadal strikes". In the day time with clipless I had no issues but in the dark with flats I definitely smacked the pedals a bunch of times. Still a super fun ride and the 35mm stem really refined the handling for me.

  40. #1140
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    What 35mm stem you using?
    konahonzo

  41. #1141
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What 35mm stem you using?
    The KORE Repute. The price was right and it's a good looking stem actually. Sorry I was too lazy to unlock the bike and bring it down to take pics. I'll get some good ones once my final build is complete.

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-4.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-3.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-2.jpgHonzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-1.jpg

    There are some nice pics of it in this review: Review: Kore Repute Stem, Mega Bars & Ikon Grips | Factory Jackson

    It's super light but still looks burly. So easy to pop up the front now and thanks to the long top tube and the seat angle of the Honzo, I'm climbing as well as I ever have.

  42. #1142
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    Keepin' it Kona

    The Honzo is the best hardtail in the world in my opinion, but today I rode the best bike I have ever ridden. Having never owned a dual suspension I knew it was going to be different, but damn, this bike is amazing. I started this thread a couple years ago because of my enthusiasm for the Honzo, and I'm feeling the same way about my new bike, a Kona Process 153 DL. It. Just. Rips. For the first time in my life I own two bikes, but I may be parting out/selling the Honzo...we'll see. Here are some pics from it's maiden voyage.

    Instagram

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  43. #1143
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    Lolll kona really got it with the colors!
    But in the pictures... The water bottle is... Too much!

  44. #1144
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    Quote Originally Posted by mathoss View Post
    Instagram

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    Lolll kona really got it with the colors!
    But in the pictures... The water bottle is... Too much!
    Not worried about fashion. I even wear a hip pack water bottle holder. One on the frame and another on the hip pack is all I need, no hydration pack or sweaty back.

  45. #1145
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    The Honzo is the best hardtail in the world in my opinion, but today I rode the best bike I have ever ridden. Having never owned a dual suspension I knew it was going to be different, but damn, this bike is amazing. I started this thread a couple years ago because of my enthusiasm for the Honzo, and I'm feeling the same way about my new bike, a Kona Process 153 DL. It. Just. Rips. For the first time in my life I own two bikes, but I may be parting out/selling the Honzo...we'll see. Here are some pics from it's maiden voyage.

    Instagram

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    Very cool. Congrats on the new ride!
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  46. #1146
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    Love it the new Process line. Any reason why you didn't get the 111? Is 650b king?
    konahonzo

  47. #1147
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    Thanks guys! Euro, I looked at the 111, but I just felt like trying 650b. I rode both and the 111 really felt like my Honzo, which it was based on, only with less travel, rear sus., and a steeper head angle. I chose the 153 for the 66.5 head angle and Pike and because I want it for gnarlier terrain. It's a very stout bike and comes with a terrific build. Even the wheels are great, love the cockpit and brakes.

  48. #1148
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Thanks guys! Euro, I looked at the 111, but I just felt like trying 650b. I rode both and the 111 really felt like my Honzo, which it was based on, only with less travel, rear sus., and a steeper head angle. I chose the 153 for the 66.5 head angle and Pike and because I want it for gnarlier terrain. It's a very stout bike and comes with a terrific build. Even the wheels are great, love the cockpit and brakes.
    I've been shopping for a 650b trailbike for the last few months. Sold my Spider 29 frame and started buying 650b parts (I also sold a Steely to your brother) - the money ran out so I scooped the Honzo and tossed my parts on it. The Honzo was supposed to be temporary but I've fallen in love with it. I will be keeping it in the quiver.

    I've been bugging my LBS for a process 153 frame only but nothing available yet. I started thinking I would buy complete to save some cash and then I have been comparing prices. Kona wants a lot for the DL!!! Price is not far off from some carbon bikes. I am still undecided, but I am considering the Process 153, the 134, the Bronson and the Tracer. I'll be interested to see what your take is on the Process. I'm sure the bike is great but it seems like some bike companies like Norco and Kona have a 650b markup just because it's hot right not. If you look at the Giant lineup you get better compoments for less money... I hate Giant though!

    Anyways, love your bike - keep posting updates.

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    oops

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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Love it the new Process line. Any reason why you didn't get the 111? Is 650b king?
    As nimble as the Honzo feels for a 29er it still doesn't handle like a 26er. That's my main reason for trying out a 650b.

  51. #1151
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Thanks guys! Euro, I looked at the 111, but I just felt like trying 650b. I rode both and the 111 really felt like my Honzo, which it was based on, only with less travel, rear sus., and a steeper head angle. I chose the 153 for the 66.5 head angle and Pike and because I want it for gnarlier terrain. It's a very stout bike and comes with a terrific build. Even the wheels are great, love the cockpit and brakes.
    i dont mean to argue with you about how the bike feels, but the Honzo, P134 and P111 all have a 68° head angle.

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    He got the 153 though, not the 134.... or do you mean the Honzo and 111 are different?

  53. #1153
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    Quote Originally Posted by flatlandersk View Post
    I've been shopping for a 650b trailbike for the last few months. Sold my Spider 29 frame and started buying 650b parts (I also sold a Steely to your brother) - the money ran out so I scooped the Honzo and tossed my parts on it. The Honzo was supposed to be temporary but I've fallen in love with it. I will be keeping it in the quiver.

    I've been bugging my LBS for a process 153 frame only but nothing available yet. I started thinking I would buy complete to save some cash and then I have been comparing prices. Kona wants a lot for the DL!!! Price is not far off from some carbon bikes. I am still undecided, but I am considering the Process 153, the 134, the Bronson and the Tracer. I'll be interested to see what your take is on the Process. I'm sure the bike is great but it seems like some bike companies like Norco and Kona have a 650b markup just because it's hot right not. If you look at the Giant lineup you get better compoments for less money... I hate Giant though!

    Anyways, love your bike - keep posting updates.
    Will do. I'll do a proper write up and start a new thread, but I'll post a link here. The nice thing about the 153 DL is the part spec is really good. Even the wheels are great. The WTB i25 tubless ready might be better than flow ex's if you plan to run a tubeless ready tire like the High Roller. I also love the look of the 40mm stem. And finally, the shock and fork are top of the line. I haven't compared them to similar builds price wise, but I also didn't pay full retail. When I spec the bike out in my head, I feel like it's a fair price for a really good complete build.

  54. #1154
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogbox View Post
    i dont mean to argue with you about how the bike feels, but the Honzo, P134 and P111 all have a 68° head angle.
    My Honzo is at 67 because I run a Float 140mm. I know it's only a degree, but I could tell.

  55. #1155
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    Flatlandersk, if you don't mind could you post or pm the bikes you're comparing the 153DL to? I'm curious about the price point. I did a quick search and found this Bronson to compare:
    Santa Cruz Bronson Alloy X01 Complete - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa

    In my opinion, the Kona build beats it in geometry, handlebar, stem, wheels, shock, and fork. I'm not really up to snuff on sram drivetrain, but it looks like the Bronson build link is much better, same brakes.

    I checked out the giant:

    Trance SX 27.5 (2014) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

    and I see how it's about a grand less, so I get where you're coming from. BUT, like you said it's a Giant and it comes with a lot of Giant parts, even the dropper. Kona specs parts that most would upgrade to or choose for a build.

    The Intense 275 Tracer looks to be a similar price as the 153 DL:
    Intense Cycles Tracer 275 Expert Bike 2013 | Intense Cycles USA | Brand | www.PricePoint.com

  56. #1156
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29er Kid View Post
    Wow that is one SICK build! What might be the weight on your bike? I'm not a light weight freak but my ride is stock and definitely not light.
    With reverb and specialized butcher up front, 29lbs 3 ounces

  57. #1157
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Trance SX 27.5 (2014) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States

    and I see how it's about a grand less, so I get where you're coming from. BUT, like you said it's a Giant and it comes with a lot of Giant parts, even the dropper. Kona specs parts that most would upgrade to or choose for a build.
    Nothing wrong with Giant's house branded parts. Wheels are light & strong with DT Swiss hub internals, bladed spokes etc, and their Connect SL cockpit is better quality than Kona's IMO.

    The thing that puts me off Giant is their Overdrive 2 steerer, and the press-fit BB which is common to both...

  58. #1158
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    It's the second ride with an awesome add... A Reverb! Guys... this... change EvErYtHiNG!
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-sta_4566.jpg
    Last edited by mathoss; 11-19-2013 at 07:07 PM.

  59. #1159
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    Still Stoked!

    Every time I ride my Honzo I'm blown away by this bike!
    As long as I'm willing to commit to the line the bike (and the fork - most of the time) will ride through it!

    I've been running Schwalbe Hans Dampf front and back for the past 2 months on the SunRingle Charger Pros with no issues.
    It is a tight squeeze on the rear but it works with very minimal rub. The rear rim is very close to being retired after 2 full seasons of very hard riding. With that happening I've got some seriously wonky spoke tension happening to have the rim run straight and not fold while I smash it through stuff.

    With today's ride I was reminded very clearly that the stock 2012 Rev fork isn't really meant as a full on "AM" fork. There were a few moments where I felt the fork seriously flex back under the bike in hard g-outs with less than optimal transitions.

    We rode a trail that was a part of the first stage of the Whistler WORCA FUNduro today. The trail is called Peas In A Pod and it has some solid steep tech sections to keep you on your toes!

    We didn't stop very much for pics but here is one from one of the smaller features on the trail.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-pa200028.jpg
    I didn't quite make the corner coming off of the off-camber rock line.
    At least I managed to wedge myself into a small tree that held me nicely balanced!
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-pa200033.jpg

  60. #1160
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    I'm considering buying and building a Honzo frame, but how much should I be paying for the frame?

    Prices that I've seen have varied by alot for no apparent reason. This one has a gold base and orange lettering.
    Last edited by Vegard; 10-23-2013 at 09:34 AM.

  61. #1161
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    Used anywhere from $275 to $400 I've seen.
    konahonzo

  62. #1162
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    Titanium

    Hey guys. Was chatting at our local Enduro race with Chris Mandell (designer of the Honzo). I was telling him how much I love my Honzo. He was stoked. He filled me in that there will be a Ti frame coming out with the Honzo's geo. It might have slightly more stand over height as well. Sounds like it will be pretty badass. Hopefully I'll see it being tested on the local trails soon.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  63. #1163
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    Can someone link me to a decent headset that'll work on the honzo frame?
    I've only used lefties before and this headset stuff is confusing :O


    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Used anywhere from $275 to $400 I've seen.
    I found a new 2013 on ebay for quite cheap

  64. #1164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Can someone link me to a decent headset that'll work on the honzo frame?
    The stock headset type is a ZS44 upper and an EC44 lower for tapered forks. Use the Cane Creek headset finder on their website if plan on going with a non-tapered fork. Cane Creek 40 series headsets are a great value.

  65. #1165
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    The stock headset type is a ZS44 upper and an EC44 lower for tapered forks. Use the Cane Creek headset finder on their website if plan on going with a non-tapered fork. Cane Creek 40 series headsets are a great value.
    Thanks, I'll look into that!
    I'll make a separate thread so I don't clutter this one with questions

  66. #1166
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    New to Honzo. Some questions: what is the difference(apart from colour) between the 2012 and 2013 frames? The 2013 frame bronze/gold is that anodised or some sort of tinted lacquer over raw? Cheers.

  67. #1167
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    New to Honzo. Some questions: what is the difference(apart from colour) between the 2012 and 2013 frames? The 2013 frame bronze/gold is that anodised or some sort of tinted lacquer over raw? Cheers.
    2012 has a slightly longer seat tube for each respective size other than the 20" Long or XL, it's 20" for 2012, 2013, and 2014. All the other geo is the same for all the years. 2012 also is 135x10 QR dropout. 2013+ is 142x12 dropouts but you can buy the QR or even SS dropouts from Kona. 2013+ also has received a small brace between the seat tube and top tube. As for the color, 2013 and 2014 are simply color tinted clearcoats over a raw frame, nothing more. I have yet to see an anodized cromoly frame.
    konahonzo

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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    I'm freaking loving my honzo.
    It needs some more aggressive tires though...
    Here are some pics.
    I singlespeeded it, threw on a dropper, 785mm handlebars, xt brakes w/ 7 inch rotors.
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382990009.972917.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382990031.576736.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382990051.119476.jpg
    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-imageuploadedbytapatalk1382990075.061334.jpg

    I'm hoping on getting an on one chunky monkey tire for the front, and I'll move that ardent to the rear.
    Should be a solid combo.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  69. #1169
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    2012 has a slightly longer seat tube for each respective size other than the 20" Long or XL, it's 20" for 2012, 2013, and 2014. All the other geo is the same for all the years. 2012 also is 135x10 QR dropout. 2013+ is 142x12 dropouts but you can buy the QR or even SS dropouts from Kona. 2013+ also has received a small brace between the seat tube and top tube. As for the color, 2013 and 2014 are simply color tinted clearcoats over a raw frame, nothing more. I have yet to see an anodized cromoly frame.
    That's great info. Also looking at the Yelli Screamy.

  70. #1170
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    That's great info. Also looking at the Yelli Screamy.
    How tall are you? The Yellis run kinda short in the ETT department. I had a purple XL frame here mocked up somewhat with parts and decided to sell it in favor of my beloved Honzo 20" Long frame. Plus steel is real.
    konahonzo

  71. #1171
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    Quote Originally Posted by playdead View Post
    Hey guys. Was chatting at our local Enduro race with Chris Mandell (designer of the Honzo). I was telling him how much I love my Honzo. He was stoked. He filled me in that there will be a Ti frame coming out with the Honzo's geo. It might have slightly more stand over height as well. Sounds like it will be pretty badass. Hopefully I'll see it being tested on the local trails soon.
    Awesome news. Hopefully it would have a 30.9/31.6 seat tube too.

  72. #1172
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    A little updating has been done.
    Trailwrecker at large

  73. #1173
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    Anyone know the stem length that comes withe stock build?

  74. #1174
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    How tall are you? The Yellis run kinda short in the ETT department. I had a purple XL frame here mocked up somewhat with parts and decided to sell it in favor of my beloved Honzo 20" Long frame. Plus steel is real.
    hi eurospek

    6ft 4ins. I like the Honzo geo better than YS...can run shorter stem. But YS would be 2/3ibs lighter? Now, also considering the Process 111 or might wait for the Honzo ti? Any thoughts? Cheers.

  75. #1175
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluidworks View Post
    Anyone know the stem length that comes withe stock build?
    60mm

    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    hi eurospek

    6ft 4ins. I like the Honzo geo better than YS...can run shorter stem. But YS would be 2/3ibs lighter? Now, also considering the Process 111 or might wait for the Honzo ti? Any thoughts? Cheers.
    Same height then. Definitely suggest going with the Kona geometry, shorter stems=better. If you're looking at weight savings, then I suggest a Taro frame from Kona. Similar geo to a Honzo but in aluminum and no sliders. But in all honesty, I definitely do not feel the weight of my Honzo riding around and it's under 31 lbs. I'm also curious about the Honzo Ti but looking at Raijin and Explosif Ti frame pricing, I would rather be on a full suspension bike at those prices.
    konahonzo

  76. #1176
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    60mm


    Same height then. Definitely suggest going with the Kona geometry, shorter stems=better. If you're looking at weight savings, then I suggest a Taro frame from Kona. Similar geo to a Honzo but in aluminum and no sliders. But in all honesty, I definitely do not feel the weight of my Honzo riding around and it's under 31 lbs. I'm also curious about the Honzo Ti but looking at Raijin and Explosif Ti frame pricing, I would rather be on a full suspension bike at those prices.
    Good point about the ti pricing. Do you think the P111 would be ok with a 140 Pike? If not I might consider the P153?

  77. #1177
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    Does anybody know the shock size of the P111 and P153?

  78. #1178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheepo5669 View Post
    I'm hoping on getting an on one chunky monkey tire for the front, and I'll move that ardent to the rear.
    Should be a solid combo.
    Nice ride. I am currently running that exact tire combination on my Honzo both in 2.4. The Monkey is heavy and soft, the knobs make it look bigger and meaner than the Ardent but the actual width is a little smaller. I opted for the softer version and it wears pretty fast. My buddy tried my single speed that had 2 monkeys on it and said he thought it felt draggy. Maybe the Ardent in the rear helps that out a bit because I tried Strava for the first time this weekend and had some KOM times on a few descents. Our terrain is mostly smooth clay but it gets wet sometimes and the Monkey was good for that. Overall though I am going back to Ardent 2.4 front and back.

  79. #1179
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    While I was in a LBS enquiring about a possible demo of one of the new Process bikes ( they are having to request one for me), in walked a guy with a blue 2012 Honzo. Very nice looking bike I must say and I really like that colour and the understated graphics. I think I read somewhere that you can convert the 2012 drop outs to 142 x 12? Anybody know about this, because I might try and get hold of an older frame if I can.

  80. #1180
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    The 142x12 drop outs and 9qr are interchangeable among the different years of the frames.

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    My honzo. Better wheels and dropper as soon as I can afford them



  82. #1182
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    Does anybody know the shock size of the P111 and P153?
    P111 = 184 x 44
    P134 = 190 x 50
    P153 = 216 x 63

  83. #1183
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    I think I read somewhere that you can convert the 2012 drop outs to 142 x 12? Anybody know about this, because I might try and get hold of an older frame if I can.
    Yep, I have the '12 Honzo, and just ordered the 142x12mm dropouts from my Kona dealer.

  84. #1184
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    thanks everyone for the info, cheers

  85. #1185
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    What's the q factor? (2013 frame if that matters) and have anyone tried 51mm rake?
    Last edited by Vegard; 11-05-2013 at 04:35 PM.

  86. #1186
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    Looking for an 2012 18" Honzo frame, been riding a large 2013 for some time but I want something a bit smaller and more nimble for chucking around, can anyone help me out?

  87. #1187
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    Anybody try this bike out and compare it with the Stache?

    I really like the Honzo, especially the pricepoint, but not sure about the weight of a steel frame. Seems a bit portly to me. For my size (M Honzo vs 17.5 Stache), id imagine the weight difference could be close to 4-5 lbs. Is this noticeable climbing? Thoughts on Steel vs aluminum?

  88. #1188
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Anybody try this bike out and compare it with the Stache?

    I really like the Honzo, especially the pricepoint, but not sure about the weight of a steel frame. Seems a bit portly to me. For my size (M Honzo vs 17.5 Stache), id imagine the weight difference could be close to 4-5 lbs. Is this noticeable climbing? Thoughts on Steel vs aluminum?
    I demoed a stache on some diverse trail, and I own a honzo with a 140mm fork that I have ridden all over.
    They are totally different category bikes.
    The stache is more of an "aggressive XC-trail" bike, and the honzo is much more "am" oriented.

    The stache is much lighter in weight, but doesn't ride too much lighter...

    I prefer the honzo for everything but climbing. But once the trail turns down, the honzo outperforms the stache in every way.
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  89. #1189
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    Yah I really wish I could demo both, but neither of my LBS seems to carry any regularly. Can order them, but tough to get a feel if not in store. I like both bikes actually, and if I had to categorize myself, I'd say just looking for a 29 HT singletrack trail machine.

    Unfortunately, climbing can be a decent to big part of that.

  90. #1190
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    Quote Originally Posted by HonzoTom View Post
    Looking for an 2012 18" Honzo frame, been riding a large 2013 for some time but I want something a bit smaller and more nimble for chucking around, can anyone help me out?
    try these guys Bothy Bikes | Mountain biking in the Scottish Highlands

  91. #1191
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    New (to me) bike day! Took her for the first ride. 2014 stock except for SLX brakes. Here's a few musings.

    -Had no trouble climbing even out of the saddle. Expected a little more wheel lift, felt stable as can be.
    -Frame size definitely right. I was a little concerned with my 6'2" height the huge TT would be too long, but it feels just right. The L bike would be too small. Still need to play with saddle placement and stem length.
    -Heavy, but good feeling ride. I like bikes to be overly built, and this one obviously is. Definitely capable of being ridden harder than my skill set allows.
    -SLX brakes are the bees knees. Coming from some Avid Elixir 3s, it's amazing what a difference these make. Quiet, powerful, very nice.
    -Fork felt good, no noodling from what I can tell, though my downhill section was only 10 minutes or so.


    I'll update more after my next ride.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-8.jpg  


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    One thing I noticed now looking at your XL pic, the headtube seems longer than my 2012 (or this 20" Long for comparison) as there's more space between the top tube and down tube junction. I wonder why Kona decided to lengthen it from 110mm to 120mm. Interesting. Comparing 2014 geometry to 2012/13, everything is pretty much the same except 2014 has a slightly higher stack and shorter reach for the XL. Hmmm.
    konahonzo

  93. #1193
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    Think I'm going to end up getting one of these. Stopped by my LBS to start working on a custom build, frame up. Unfortunately they didn't have any in stock, so was wondering what size I would want.

    I'm 5'8 140 lbs with a 30 inseam. I currently ride a 17.5 26 inch fuel ex, and had a trek 29er a while back that was 17.5 as well. I was thinking medium, but heard these run big and might wanna get a size down to increase maneuverability. Thoughts?

  94. #1194
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    Think I'm going to end up getting one of these. Stopped by my LBS to start working on a custom build, frame up. Unfortunately they didn't have any in stock, so was wondering what size I would want.

    I'm 5'8 140 lbs with a 30 inseam. I currently ride a 17.5 26 inch fuel ex, and had a trek 29er a while back that was 17.5 as well. I was thinking medium, but heard these run big and might wanna get a size down to increase maneuverability. Thoughts?
    Actually found some good info from some posts a while ago. Saw that this frame does indeed run a tad big, so a small should fit me probably perfectly. Here is what I have so far, please give me feedback and thoughts:

    - Small Honzo frame
    - Stock RS Revolution 120 Fork
    - 1x10 SLX drivetrain
    - SLX Rear Derailleur
    - SLX Brakes
    - Stock handlebar, seatpost, stem, grips (might replace later on)
    - Stan's Flow EX 29 wheelset (mechanic mentioned this would be a big upgrade and should shed about 1lb total. Thoughts?)
    - Stock Maxxis Ardent tire up front, Maxxis Ikon in the back.
    - Tubeless set-up


    Any thoughts on this? Mostly thinking about the wheelset as that is the thing I had most questions on. The SLX brakes and deraileur are a given for me as I really love that line. Gonna stick with a 120 fork as that should be fine for me.

  95. #1195
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    What hubs with the Flow EX? If you're looking at the regular No Tubes Flow EX wheelset than I wouldn't really bother with the upgrade. The 2014 wheelset is quite better than anything so far on the 2012 and 2013 Honzo. If it breaks, I'd upgrade down the line to something like the Flow EX with the new 40 POE Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs, under $500. If anything, I would be looking to add a pound to your build with a dropper post like a Reverb.
    konahonzo

  96. #1196
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    What hubs with the Flow EX? If you're looking at the regular No Tubes Flow EX wheelset than I wouldn't really bother with the upgrade. The 2014 wheelset is quite better than anything so far on the 2012 and 2013 Honzo. If it breaks, I'd upgrade down the line to something like the Flow EX with the new 40 POE Hope Pro 2 Evo hubs, under $500. If anything, I would be looking to add a pound to your build with a dropper post like a Reverb.
    Thanks amigo. I don't know a lot about wheels, so you think those flow ex arent a big upgrade over the stock WTB ST rims? From what I have read, the stock rims are quite heavy, and I'd be interested in shaving some weight if possible and financially feasible.

  97. #1197
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    Have you considered the light bicycle carbon wheels? You can get them with Hope hubs now. (probably the 26t version though)

  98. #1198
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    Quote Originally Posted by mvallejo View Post
    From what I have read, the stock rims are quite heavy, and I'd be interested in shaving some weight if possible and financially feasible.
    The rims weigh 550gm, a comparable Stans weighs 490+, so what does "heavy" really mean?? Hope hubs are lighter than CK, but which would you trust? I just blew up a Hope II

    Your shop guy is telling some tall tales, "drop a pound" with a change to flows and hopes, dang that's 500gms, no way Jose. The Deore hubs are not that heavy, the cassette and freebody will be the same, so maybe 200gms at a cost of $500+, not exactly a deal. The stock wheelset is pretty nice, too bad it comes on such a heavy arse frame

    The Honzo frame is at least a pound heavier than the Taro but has the same geometry but no maxle (who really cares), you can cut weight by skipping the dropper, you can also go to lighter tires.

    Tires, now that's a weight difference that matters! If you're a lightweight and you're not hitting obstacles/transitions too hard, you could shed some weight by ditching the 800gm 2.4 Ardent up front, maybe drop 100-200, but at the cost of more flats and tire failures.

    You can drop ~50gms per hub, ~50gms per rim, ~100gm per tire, a few hundred grams on the dropper vs non dropper post, bars and stem could drop ~50-100gms, go to a NW chainring and drop the 150gm chain guide!

    I'd get the Stock Honzo, keep the wheel and fork, lighten things up on the accessories, get an NW chainring and drop the guide, leave the rest alone and go ride. You can get under 30# and it'll be a nice ride for not a lot of $$

  99. #1199
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The rims weigh 550gm, a comparable Stans weighs 490+, so what does "heavy" really mean?? Hope hubs are lighter than CK, but which would you trust? I just blew up a Hope II

    Your shop guy is telling some tall tales, "drop a pound" with a change to flows and hopes, dang that's 500gms, no way Jose. The Deore hubs are not that heavy, the cassette and freebody will be the same, so maybe 200gms at a cost of $500+, not exactly a deal. The stock wheelset is pretty nice, too bad it comes on such a heavy arse frame

    The Honzo frame is at least a pound heavier than the Taro but has the same geometry but no maxle (who really cares), you can cut weight by skipping the dropper, you can also go to lighter tires.

    Tires, now that's a weight difference that matters! If you're a lightweight and you're not hitting obstacles/transitions too hard, you could shed some weight by ditching the 800gm 2.4 Ardent up front, maybe drop 100-200, but at the cost of more flats and tire failures.

    You can drop ~50gms per hub, ~50gms per rim, ~100gm per tire, a few hundred grams on the dropper vs non dropper post, bars and stem could drop ~50-100gms, go to a NW chainring and drop the 150gm chain guide!

    I'd get the Stock Honzo, keep the wheel and fork, lighten things up on the accessories, get an NW chainring and drop the guide, leave the rest alone and go ride. You can get under 30# and it'll be a nice ride for not a lot of $$
    Wow, wouldnt have thought the chain guide would weigh so much. Is it a big negative to drop that?

    Also, any recommendation on tires to go for? Ikon? Maybe a Nobby Nic up front and a Racing Ralph in back?

  100. #1200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The rims weigh 550gm, a comparable Stans weighs 490+, so what does "heavy" really mean?? Hope hubs are lighter than CK, but which would you trust? I just blew up a Hope II
    Were those the older Pro 2? I love my Hope Pro EVO 2 hubs, both SS and geared versions. In fact I just ordered the 40 poe FlowEX set from Cycle sports UK, for $440ish. It may have blown up for you, but I think there are many of us out there, that have plenty of good experience with them. Just like with all generally good quality stuff out there, there will always be stories here and there of problems. So, just to give my 2 cents (unwanted or not) on your question, yes I personally would trust my Hope hubs for the price and whatever weight savings they may provide.

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