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  1. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvan View Post
    I will check but I think it's more of an alignment problem between the chain guide pulley and lower der. Pulley. It's creating a cross-chaining effect. I tried rotating the guide plate and adj the B tension screw on der but didn't help much. If the guide pulley was closer to the chainring it would be better, I have to see if there is any adjustment for it. This is my first chain guide and I already hate it
    Know what you mean. I'm not fond of chainguides if they include drag, either. Right now I'm running my HonZo in SS mode but when I go 1x10 later this spring, I'll use an outside bash plus a Jump Stop. If you're a gnar hammer, my less than industrial strength system won't do, but if you're primarily a trail rider, it's another option.

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  2. #552
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    FWIW and for future riders looking to upgrade, setting up the MRP Lopes SL was quite easy. No rubbing in any gear (12-36 spread, SS derailleur and 32T up front). Definitely recommended!
    konahonzo

  3. #553
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    I know it has been discussed a couple of times already but I'm not sure which frame size to go for.

    I am 5ft 7 and currently ride a 17.5" Trek Marlin and find it a great fit. That has an effective TT of 23.7". I'm not sure whether to go with the 24" TT of the size 18" Honzo as I would be running a shorter stem. Or should I go for the 16" which I feel might be a bit cramped. I would try a demo bike but according to the Kona website there are none in the UK, closest is the Netherlands. I might send them an email and see.

  4. #554
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    Max. it really depends on how you like your bikes to handle.
    I bought my small from Stick-boy, who is about your height I believe. He went to a medium honzo.
    despite being a bit taller (175cm/5'-9") I prefer small-fitting bikes, especially if they're 29'ers. So the small w/ a 50mm stem feels perfect to me. Playdead's around the same size also on a small.

  5. #555
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    I thought about a medium sized frame for a while until I realized that the Front Center on it was over 30mm more than the small. Most of my other bikes are between 650 and 690 in this dimension.

    As FM correctly points out, it does depend on how you like your bike to handle, but the front center on the medium honzo is significantly longer than the marlin, assuming they didn't change it too much for this year (it still has a 23.7" ett).

    you can make your own decision but here's a bit of background on Front Center (with reflexive link to mtbr forum post): Waltworks Bicycles: Front Center: It Works, *****es

  6. #556
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Yep, I would definitely recommend anyone building up a Honzo from scratch, take the time to do the face/chase/reaming, especially the headtube- and it can be tricky to find a 44mm reamer. Another thing I learned building this bike, the cane creak headsets are probably a lot more tolerant of the head tube being undersize, since their skirts are shorter.
    Asnwer me this, started breaking down my Honzo for maintenance tonight, and the lower Cane Creek 40 headset cartridge bearing popped out just fine. The upper cartridge bearing looks to be seized in the upper headset cup. Figured I'd popped it by tapping it out, but only managed to break the cartridge bearing apart (got the inner race and bearings out), with the outer race of the bearing still seized to the upper headset cup. Soaking it now in PB Blaster but I don't see a way to get a grip on it.

    Easiest solution I see would be just a new $30 CC40 upper headset complete assembly, but was the seizing cause by being underspec'd in size? When I took the fork out, the bearing felt smooth turning.

    (In retrospect, should have left it alone and not wanting to grease between cup and bearing).

    Or did my bearing simply seized up in the cup?
    konahonzo

  7. #557
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    ^ Did you take the entire upper assembly out of the headtube? It may be so hard to get out because of the force of the press-fit into the headtube on the bearing cup.

    I would try to take the entire upper cup out and hit it with the heatgun to try and expand things a little bit.

    and yeah, you should have just left if alone if it was turning fine.

  8. #558
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    Nope, didn't take anything out. Spoke with my LBS, they might be able to help they said, I'll clean up the frame today and swing on by tomorrow. Worst case scenario is I'll be out $30 for a new upper assembly, oh well.
    konahonzo

  9. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    ^ Did you take the entire upper assembly out of the headtube? It may be so hard to get out because of the force of the press-fit into the headtube on the bearing cup.
    Thats the thing... should it make any difference?
    With the cane creek headsets I had on other bikes, you could easily remove the bearings from the cups by hand, while the cups were still in the frame (slip fit).

    Another thing I realized with my headset saga... the lower bearing can be largely unaffected by head tube tolerances, since the bearing is external. The upper is where you feel it, since with zerostack, the bearing gets squeezed if the headtube is undersize.

    Eurospek, since it's cheap, I'd just replace the whole upper assembly... but measure the headtube before pressing it in. If it's under 43.7 I'd have it reamed.
    Good luck & keep us posted!

  10. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Thats the thing... should it make any difference?
    With the cane creek headsets I had on other bikes, you could easily remove the bearings from the cups by hand, while the cups were still in the frame (slip fit).

    You are right it shouldn't matter at all if the headtube is within the proper tolerances for the press fit. If the headtube is much under 43.7mm like you said it will squeeze the headset cup and probably make the bearing hard to get out like Eurospek is experiencing. That's the only thing I can figure that would make the outer race of that bearing hard to remove.

    Euro, How hard did the upper cup go in when you pressed in the upper assembly?

  11. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshM View Post
    You are right it shouldn't matter at all if the headtube is within the proper tolerances for the press fit. If the headtube is much under 43.7mm like you said it will squeeze the headset cup and probably make the bearing hard to get out like Eurospek is experiencing. That's the only thing I can figure that would make the outer race of that bearing hard to remove.

    Euro, How hard did the upper cup go in when you pressed in the upper assembly?
    Well the first upper assembly ended up being smashed up a bit on the lip, but I chalked that up to the novice guy pressing it in at the LBS. They were apologetic and replaced it with a whole new assembly without questions. Second assembly went it just fine, and when I was first building it last year, the upper bearing went it fine, sure it was harder to pop out than the bottom but it was still coming out without problem.

    I'm thinking it's just seized up (I had a light coating of grease between cup and bearing) but next time I'm using some anti-seize paste instead. I'm thinking that the headtube can't be undersized, since the bearing was turning smooth by hand and never had problems when the fork was installed.
    konahonzo

  12. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    Asnwer me this ... Figured I'd popped it by tapping it out, but only managed to break the cartridge bearing apart (got the inner race and bearings out), with the outer race of the bearing still seized to the upper headset cup.
    Or did my bearing simply seized up in the cup?
    Did you use the proper tool to tap the cup out by the skirt (i.e. a screwdriver or one of those flared pieces of pipe park sells), or did you just bash on the inner race of the headset bearing?

    If it's the latter then, yes, you should have just left it alone.

  13. #563
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    My Honzo

    Bit of a frankenbike at the moment. Had to pinch some parts off my XC bike, but it's otherwise done until those parts arrive and I can swap back.

    - 2012 large (20) Honzo set up single speed
    - X9 cranks with spiderless chainring - 32/20
    - 2013 Fox 120 CTD FIT (wanted black, couldn't get it)
    - Elixer on one side, XO brake on the other
    - Easton Haven bars - 711mm
    - Thomson Elite seat post
    - Thomson Elite 50mm stem
    - WTB Silverado saddle
    - XT pedals
    - Mavic Crossmaxx wheels
    - WTB Weirwolf 2.55 front, Bronson rear

    Weighs in at 26.88 pounds with pedals and cage

    After my first ride I'm glad I invested in this build. This bike climbs really well and hauls the mail downhill. Incredibly nimble and not the least bit twitchy downhill.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-photo-1-.jpg  


  14. #564
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    ^this is basically what I'm aiming for, except in small & with a set of hand-built wheels. Glad to hear it's a winner.

  15. #565
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    You won't be disappointed. And from what I've read the small is much lighter, so you should be able to get it under 26 pounds.

    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    ^this is basically what I'm aiming for, except in small & with a set of hand-built wheels. Glad to hear it's a winner.

  16. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Good luck & keep us posted!
    Got back from the LBS today, and first my tech wasn't able to grab the outer race from the cup, he then removed the whole upper assembly from the frame and the bearing race fell out of the cup. He measured the headtube and it's ever so slightly out of spec (really miniscule numbers from he told me). No 44mm reamer on hand yet ($40 btw to ream out top and bottom of headtube), but for the time being, he reinstalled the upper cup, rotated it a bit from the original orientation, and even had a spare new CC40 upper bearing on hand for me to use.

    I'm going to reinstall it, use some anti-seize between the bearings and cups and run another season. When he'll get the reamer in the shop, I'll probably buy a new CC40 headset and get it properly reamed out. Overall, spent $20 and I'm riding again.
    konahonzo

  17. #567
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    Got my Honzo built up:

    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here-honzo_shop.jpg

    The important stuff:
    Fox 29 Float 34 fork
    X.9 type 2 rear der
    SLX cranks with 32T chainring
    11-36 cassette
    X.0 10sp twist shifter
    Kona flat pedals
    XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
    EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
    no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

    Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

    Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.

  18. #568
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    side view

    nothing new excpet a new cog, now running 36:18.

  19. #569
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    Simple. Clean. Nice.

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  20. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSBiker View Post
    Got my Honzo built up:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honzo_shop.jpg 
Views:	1527 
Size:	160.0 KB 
ID:	767529

    The important stuff:
    Fox 29 Float 34 fork
    X.9 type 2 rear der
    SLX cranks with 32T chainring
    11-36 cassette
    X.0 10sp twist shifter
    Kona flat pedals
    XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
    EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
    no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

    Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

    Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.
    Nice! Is that a medium?

  21. #571
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSBiker View Post
    Got my Honzo built up:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honzo_shop.jpg 
Views:	1527 
Size:	160.0 KB 
ID:	767529
    I do like those old style decals and paint scheme.

  22. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by APSBiker View Post
    Got my Honzo built up:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	honzo_shop.jpg 
Views:	1527 
Size:	160.0 KB 
ID:	767529

    The important stuff:
    Fox 29 Float 34 fork
    X.9 type 2 rear der
    SLX cranks with 32T chainring
    11-36 cassette
    X.0 10sp twist shifter
    Kona flat pedals
    XT M785 brakes, 160mm rotors
    EC70 bar (uncut) and seatpost
    no chainguide (but no issues with dropped chains yet!)

    Soon to be built: dark purple King hubs with Pacenti DL31 rims

    Rode it a couple times so far, it's pretty awesome! One hell of a great bike.
    Nice looking sled. I'm running mine SS at the moment but will put gears on it in a couple months. I don't intend to utilize the stock chainguide. From your photo, it looks like you're not employing any type of chain management device. Are you? I was thinking of using a Jump Stop (inside) and a bash guard outer. Yours looks really clean without the clutter. How's it going? You hit stuff? What's the travel on your fork? Thanks.

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  23. #573
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    fyi:


    It's a Rubberqueen in 2,2" (which is apparently similiar to the Mountain King in 2,4"). Im looking forward to the new Maxxis tires, especially the Highroller 2,3".

  24. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by squads View Post
    Nice! Is that a medium?
    Yep. I ride 19" frames in the XC Konas I've had so this fits great.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    Nice looking sled. I'm running mine SS at the moment but will put gears on it in a couple months. I don't intend to utilize the stock chainguide. From your photo, it looks like you're not employing any type of chain management device. Are you? I was thinking of using a Jump Stop (inside) and a bash guard outer. Yours looks really clean without the clutter. How's it going? You hit stuff? What's the travel on your fork? Thanks.

    --sParty
    Yeah, no chainguide, just the type 2 rear derailleur doing the work. I've done a few bumpy rides so far, no issues with chaindrop yet. I really think it will be fine with the extra tension the Type 2 provides. Probably gonna go for a med cage at some point though, just had this one lying around from when I went from triple to double on my XC bike.

    Fork is the 140mm model, it's a great model. I really like the DTC settings now that I've had some time with the bike.

  25. #575
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    So, first post here. I've been researching for some weeks about what bike to buy, I want to get back into biking properly. I used to ride a Trek 6500, an XC bike which I never felt really comfortable on. After much browsing, going to bike dealers, learning about different geometries and equipment, I decided to buy a Kona Honzo (pretty bummed that the 2013 model doesn't have the awesome matte blue finish ).

    To further complicate matters, I want to build this bike myself (first time), so I'm only buying the frame, ánd I'm gonna try singlespeed. I've read this entire thread (and others) the last week so I'm pretty up to date about different components to use etc, but I don't find much information about what parts are needed to set this bike up as SS?

    Ideally, I would like a front crank/ring that I can keep when I want to switch to gears, without installing a chain guide. Something like an SRAM XX1 (to which I would mate a x9 type 2 rear derailleur), but preferably a bit cheaper.

    Also the rear hub, not to sure what to look for, I don't quite understand the difference between a freewheel and a casette hub. And as I understand it's difficult to find a 142x12 freewheel hub?

    I'm going to my LBS for ordering the frame tomorrow, so I will ask him these questions too, but I like to be prepared as in the past I've been suckered into buying some ****ty components for my commuter as the LBS just wanted to sell the stuff he had laying around.

    Any other tips are welcome too!

  26. #576
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    You will be able to set it up SS if you swap the dropouts to QR. CMPHCCSS for the driveside and CMPHCCND non drive side. You have the choice of normal cassette rear wheel and then putting on spacers and single sprocket to get correct chainline. Think you mentioned something about putting gears on so that would be easiest option unless you want to buy two wheels.

  27. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    So, first post here. I've been researching for some weeks about what bike to buy, I want to get back into biking properly. I used to ride a Trek 6500, an XC bike which I never felt really comfortable on. After much browsing, going to bike dealers, learning about different geometries and equipment, I decided to buy a Kona Honzo (pretty bummed that the 2013 model doesn't have the awesome matte blue finish ).

    To further complicate matters, I want to build this bike myself (first time), so I'm only buying the frame, ánd I'm gonna try singlespeed. I've read this entire thread (and others) the last week so I'm pretty up to date about different components to use etc, but I don't find much information about what parts are needed to set this bike up as SS?

    Ideally, I would like a front crank/ring that I can keep when I want to switch to gears, without installing a chain guide. Something like an SRAM XX1 (to which I would mate a x9 type 2 rear derailleur), but preferably a bit cheaper.

    Also the rear hub, not to sure what to look for, I don't quite understand the difference between a freewheel and a casette hub. And as I understand it's difficult to find a 142x12 freewheel hub?

    I'm going to my LBS for ordering the frame tomorrow, so I will ask him these questions too, but I like to be prepared as in the past I've been suckered into buying some ****ty components for my commuter as the LBS just wanted to sell the stuff he had laying around.

    Any other tips are welcome too!
    Personally I'd steer clear of screw-on freewheels. There's much more flexibility in freehub / cassette in case you ever decide to run gears. I'm running my Honzo SS with the stock wheelset (142x12 TA rear hub) with spacers on the freehub body and just one cog. It may not be as elegant as a SS-specific rear wheel but I'll cheerfully accept the look of a spacer stack in order to gain the gearing options. I see no reason to exchange the dropouts for QR -- it's not that QR is a "bad" system, it's just that it's not as strong plus it's what the off-road cycling world is leaving in its dust.

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  28. #578
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    Thanks guys, took me a while to google what you meant (somehow I always arrive at sheldonbrown.com when googling stuff like this, weird site, but has a lot of useful info). Ordered my frame today, should arrive in 3 days. On to researching the other parts!

  29. #579
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    Since I liked my Revelation so much, I decided to pick up the XX version and a new headset to go with it No pictures yet as I'm still waiting on the lower cup but I'm looking forward to how this beast rips with 140mm up front.
    Also on the list is a Reverb dropper post, the 12x142 dropouts and corresponding Hope axle kit; I have a line for a good deals on all of them.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  30. #580
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    First obstacle: I can't figure out what type of crank is needed for this bike? For example, the SRAM XX1 front crankset is sold as GXP or as BB30, but I can't find out what the Honzo needs?

  31. #581
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    First obstacle: I can't figure out what type of crank is needed for this bike? For example, the SRAM XX1 front crankset is sold as GXP or as BB30, but I can't find out what the Honzo needs?
    I believe you would need the GXP (or external bearing) version of any crank you buy. BB30 or BB92 or PF30 cranksets use a pressed-in bottom bracket bearing which this frame is not compatible with. Also, I might steer clear of the XX1 crankset as it is designed for a specific chain which might give you compatibility issues with a singlespeed cog. I could be wrong though, XX1 is too new for a lot of this info to be out yet. You can get any regular triple ring crankset (like an XT or something), buy a SS chainring from Salsa or Surly (they're inexpensive and durable), and a cog from Surly (same thing: inexpensive and durable), plus a cheap 8 or 9 speed chain and have a great SS setup. SRAM, Shimano, and FSA also make single ring specific cranksets if you want to go that route as well.
    Brought to you by rocks.

  32. #582
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    Ok thanks. The reason I was considering (not decided yet, so expensive) the xx1 is that if I would decide later on to switch to an 1x setup, I wouldn't need a chainguide with the xx1. I've seen some people here trying the xx1 for a singlespeed, but as you said, it seems too soon for some feedback.

  33. #583
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    I'm considering a small Honzo, but Kona's geo chart states 31.5 inches which seems higher than most other 29er frames in a small/16" size. I noticed from Kona's geo diagram they measure a few inches in front of the BB rather than directly over the BB. Does this explain why it's about 1-2" more than "normal"? Can someone verify on their Honzo build, if the SO is accurate and how much less the measurement is if taken directly over the BB? I probably shouldn't worry too much about SO, if all other measurements look good, but it still has me slightly nervous nonetheless.

  34. #584
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Could I use a square tapered BB with the Honzo? I want to use my WI eno cranks..

  35. #585
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint View Post
    Could I use a square tapered BB with the Honzo? I want to use my WI eno cranks..
    I'm running a ST BB on mine. Works just fine.

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  36. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAmtbiker View Post
    I could be wrong though, XX1 is too new for a lot of this info to be out yet.
    See here for some people running the xx1 as ss:
    forums.mtbr.com/singlespeed/sram-xx1-crankset-ss-823355.html#post10158753 (put the http in front, I'm not allowed to post links yet)

  37. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfuse View Post
    First obstacle: I can't figure out what type of crank is needed for this bike? For example, the SRAM XX1 front crankset is sold as GXP or as BB30, but I can't find out what the Honzo needs?
    Have you thought about buying a complete bike and just converting it to single speed? You would need a cog, spacers and a chain. Everything else on the bike will work fine as a single speed. You can keep all the geared bits if you decide to run gears in the future.

  38. #588
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Well, I pulled the trigger. My Honzo frame is on the way! The thing I'm looking for most in a frame is to be bomb proof.. So far I haven't found a frame that I can ride for a year without breaking. I've broken 4 frames in the past three years. A monocog, a Jabberwocky and two Mariachi's.

    Hope the Honzo is up to the challenge.

  39. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by hallowedpoint View Post
    Well, I pulled the trigger. My Honzo frame is on the way! The thing I'm looking for most in a frame is to be bomb proof.. So far I haven't found a frame that I can ride for a year without breaking. I've broken 4 frames in the past three years. A monocog, a Jabberwocky and two Mariachi's.

    Hope the Honzo is up to the challenge.
    Let us know how it goes.

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  40. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976 View Post
    Have you thought about buying a complete bike and just converting it to single speed? You would need a cog, spacers and a chain. Everything else on the bike will work fine as a single speed. You can keep all the geared bits if you decide to run gears in the future.
    Yes I thought about it but various reasons made me order the frame:
    * I can easily let it be powdercoated to get rid of the hideous decals and put a nice color on it
    * I learn how a bike is put together so I can fix stuff myself instead of going to the lbs for every creak
    * I can profit from sales on the individual parts
    * If I put an xx1 chainring on it, and I would decide to ride geared after all, I don't have to install a chainguide
    * Just the fun of researching all the parts and putting it together

    The frame already arrived at the lbs, and yesterday I ordered the xx1 crankset for a good price, the surly spacer kit + cog (18t). Would like an mrp bling ring, but so far haven't found a shop in Europe that sells them.

  41. #591
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    At just shy of 7 pounds (large) with beefy tubing and solid welds, if you brake this frame there's nothing you can't brake. The four frames you mentioned are flyweights compared to the Honzo. This frame is meant to last forever.

    You're gonna freakin' love this bike.

  42. #592
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    I picked up a barely used 2013 Honzo from the classifieds two weeks ago. Stock build for now. Changes will be convert to tubeless, adjustable seat post (still deciding which one), and replace X.7 shifter with X.9 (I hate the vagueness of the X.7). Only one ride on it so far but it feels awesome. I had a 2010 Kona Unit before and couldn't stand the XC geometry any more, but the Honzo feels just about perfect.

    Here is a picture from the night I built it up:


  43. #593
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    You should pop the spacer out from the Revelation and take it to 140mm. And 2013 looks awesome. Both colors are nice!
    konahonzo

  44. #594
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    You should pop the spacer out from the Revelation and take it to 140mm. And 2013 looks awesome. Both colors are nice!
    The 2013 Rev forks aren't as simple to change travel as the '12s. Have to purchase a new part from what SRAM rep tells me. I was in a hurry so just swapped my OEM '13 120mm Rev for a '12 Dual Position 140mm Rev, tho I think I would have preferred the '13's solo air circuit. I don't use the dual position.

    Anyway I agree 140mm is the way to go, travelwise.

    --sParty
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  45. #595
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    And 2013 looks awesome. Both colors are nice!
    Just picked up my frame, I was pleasantly surprised by the colors in real life, pictures don't do it justice

  46. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustMtnB44 View Post
    I picked up a barely used 2013 Honzo from the classifieds two weeks ago. Stock build for now. Changes will be convert to tubeless, adjustable seat post (still deciding which one), and replace X.7 shifter with X.9 (I hate the vagueness of the X.7). Only one ride on it so far but it feels awesome. I had a 2010 Kona Unit before and couldn't stand the XC geometry any more, but the Honzo feels just about perfect.

    Here is a picture from the night I built it up:

    What size frame is your bike, how tall are you and how does it fit you? I'm around 5 10" but heard that the bike fits a bit bigger due to the longer front center so wouldn't know if a 16 or an 18 would work.

  47. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singlespeed McGee View Post
    Since I liked my Revelation so much, I decided to pick up the XX version and a new headset to go with it No pictures yet as I'm still waiting on the lower cup but I'm looking forward to how this beast rips with 140mm up front.
    Also on the list is a Reverb dropper post, the 12x142 dropouts and corresponding Hope axle kit; I have a line for a good deals on all of them.
    Mind if I ask where you're sourcing the 142x12 dropouts? I've got a new Explosif frameset with the 135mm dropouts, and converting my Ringle 142mm hub to 135mm isn't going to be cheap.

    And if anyone wants to swap your 142's for my 135's...

  48. #598
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    And 2013 looks awesome. Both colors are nice!
    I initially preferred the '12 blue color, and looked around for a while to no avail. But the gold color is growing on me, I do like it now.

    Quote Originally Posted by djembe975 View Post
    What size frame is your bike, how tall are you and how does it fit you? I'm around 5 10" but heard that the bike fits a bit bigger due to the longer front center so wouldn't know if a 16 or an 18 would work.
    I got a large frame. I am about 6' 1/2" tall. I would say it fits me perfectly. I also test rode a medium frame, which definitely felt a bit small - too short of reach for me. At 5' 10", I think a medium would fit you well.

  49. #599
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    I'm going through the Kona dealer in town, although they've been somewhat phone shy. Granted I only paid $30 CAD for the dropouts but still.
    "So do me a favor. Find your bike, whatever kind of bike it is. And RIDE it." -Gary Fisher

  50. #600
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    Honzo Build Thread - post your builds here

    I couldn't find anything on the Kona site about recommended size for rider hight. I ordered a medium (I'm 6') because the ETT and reach is a little longer than the frames I've been riding. But I see a
    Lot of 6' people that are getting the large.

    Any 6' guys riding mediums??

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