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  1. #501
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    Thanks!
    `12 Stumpjumper Expert Carbon 29er HT
    `10 Stumpjumper Comp FSR - Sold

  2. #502
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    I just had my frame powder coated as well; a double coat of flat black. Do you have a line on frame decals by chance? I am waiting on "Joe" to get back with me from Kona on the availability of a factory set.

    BTW, did you PC just for the color or was it to replace the crappy factory paint like I had to do?

  3. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by NslrPrtn View Post
    BTW, did you PC just for the color or was it to replace the crappy factory paint like I had to do?
    Mainly just wanted a different color, plus my local PC shop's price was very reasonable.

    I hit some issues with mine, pressing in a king i7 headset. Head tube was undersized, plus I botched the install. Ended up sending the headset back to King, and getting the frame faced & reamed (although there was no paint inside the headtube). If you plan to use the same headset, should be OK, but if you're switching headsets after paint I would recommend locating an LBS with a 44mm reamer.

  4. #504
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    Anyone else experienced with a front mech setup on Honzo?

    Kona Honey Badger. I mean Honzo.

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by NslrPrtn View Post
    I just had my frame powder coated as well; a double coat of flat black. Do you have a line on frame decals by chance? I am waiting on "Joe" to get back with me from Kona on the availability of a factory set.

    BTW, did you PC just for the color or was it to replace the crappy factory paint like I had to do?
    I'd like to see that!
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  6. #506
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    I'll post some pics up soon...

  7. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by NslrPrtn View Post
    I'll post some pics up soon...
    Would love to see it.

    It would be cool if one could replicate Knolly's stealth black look, matte black frame and shiny black decals.

    konahonzo

  8. #508
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    Yeah, I totally agree. That would be sick!

  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    ...matte black frame and shiny black decals. :thumbsup

    That's the look I am going for right there!

    EDIT - ordered a set of decals from fleabay for $15 shipped from the UK...hope they are not matte.
    Last edited by NslrPrtn; 01-04-2013 at 05:31 AM.

  10. #510
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    Any suggestions on the proper headset assembly for a tapered steerer on the 2013 frame?

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

  11. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    Any suggestions on the proper headset assembly for a tapered steerer on the 2013 frame?

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
    It's been covered so many times.

    Cane Creek 40

    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40 EC44/40 1.5" Lower Assembly
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 40-Series ZS44 Upper Assembly

    Cane Creek 110
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 110 EC44/40 1.5" Lower Assembly
    Universal Cycles -- Cane Creek 110-Series ZS44 1 1/8" Upper Assembly

    Chris King Inset7
    Universal Cycles -- Chris King Griplock InSet 7 Tapered Headset

    Nukerproof
    Nukeproof Warhead 44IETS Headset 2012 | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com

    I have a CC40 and would definitely buy it again, anything above that is just bike bling.

    There's also a Hope headset that fits, its lower cup is huge and most likely will have to be special ordered via LBS from Hope UK directly.
    konahonzo

  12. #512
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    Ok, so I've already seen this thread- Switched out my Paradox for a Honzo. Yeah... - so I have an idea of what the 16" looks like built up and with an approx. 5'8" person on top of it.

    Problem is: it looks small to me any more. I thought I'd settled in on 29ers with ~23" effective top tube length with about a 90mm stem, but since Kona is measuring all their dimensions off of a topped out fork, forgive me for being skeptical that the 16" Honzo will actually ever hit that number when you ride it irl (or, heaven forfend, tune the fork down to a slightly lower travel setting). Seems it would be a bit shorter, both horizontally and vertically.

    So here's my question to you all. Is anyone 5'8" riding the Medium Honzo, or have you all just gone for the Small? I'm just a smidgen over that height and have longer legs - my current bike has a bit more than 32" standover topped out - and was planning on building one up from a frame.

    *Edit for typo*

  13. #513
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    90mm stem has no place on a frame like Honzo. Anyway, go for S with very short stem and live happily ever after. You're 5'8", so unless you can scratch your feet with your hands without bending over (and considering the intended purpose of the bike like Honzo), 24" effective TT is too long for you.

  14. #514
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    Wait a sec, my foot's itchy...

    I guess I'm too hung up on the look. The front center of the medium frame is *clearly* too large for me. Herp derp.

  15. #515
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    Hey p4nh4ndle
    Same height range, I had a year+ on a medium Canfield Yelli Screamy (listed as 23.75 ETT) and it fit awesome. Comparing to the 16" Honzo Geometry is very interesting; the 16" Honzo actually has a longer wheelbase despite having a shorter top tube and shorter chainstays. How does this happen? It's all the seat angle. To get the chainstays so short, Kona steepened the seat angle to make clearance for the rear wheel, which makes the effective TT shorter. Run a layback seatpost (or get out of the saddle) and you get that top tube length back.

    The head tube and seat tube are also shorter, which is really just aesthetics- assuming you have a long enough seat post- 350mm minimum!

    Playdead's also in our size range and likes his small.

    Caveat...it's still a compact fit, some our height will prefer the 18".

  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    Ok, so I've already seen this thread- Switched out my Paradox for a Honzo. Yeah... - so I have an idea of what the 16" looks like built up and with an approx. 5'8" person on top of it.

    Problem is: it looks small to me any more. I thought I'd settled in on 29ers with ~23" effective top tube length with about a 90mm stem, but since Kona is measuring all their dimensions off of a topped out fork, forgive me for being skeptical that the 16" Honzo will actually ever hit that number when you ride it irl (or, heaven forfend, tune the fork down to a slightly lower travel setting). Seems it would be a bit shorter, both horizontally and vertically.

    So here's my question to you all. Is anyone 5'8" riding the Medium Honzo, or have you all just gone for the Small? I'm just a smidgen over that height and have longer legs - my current bike has a bit more than 32" standover topped out - and was planning on building one up from a frame.

    *Edit for typo*
    Are you going to be running a 140 or 120 mm fork?
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  17. #517
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    I was planning on a 120: probably a reba. We're not too too aggressive here in SW PA.

  18. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    I was planning on a 120: probably a reba. We're not too too aggressive here in SW PA.
    Don't make the wrong mistake. 140mm fork is the way to go, IMO. Regardless of terrain. HTA = sweet! And then you do a red rocks road trip!

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  19. #519
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    It would appear I've joined some kind of cult here. When do I get my black Nikes®?

  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    I was planning on a 120: probably a reba. We're not too too aggressive here in SW PA.
    I ran 120mm at first. Now I'm running 140. The extra travel really makes the bike more lively.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by playdead View Post
    I ran 120mm at first. Now I'm running 140. The extra travel really makes the bike more lively.
    I am contemplating pulling the spacer and going 140. As climbing is not my strongpoint, have you noticed any ill effects while climbing with the extra travel?...love the custom rig, btw
    Last edited by CBizzie; 01-09-2013 at 08:27 AM.

  22. #522
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    So what's the 140 travel fork of choice these days? I sprang for an F29 when I got my other 29er - sadly still awol - damn you Pittsburgh - but it seems, anecdotally, that while Fox has continued to increase their prices, their QC has gotten a bit slack. They've also gone almost exclusively to that bladder damper system; it seems a PITA to work on.

    I like the idea of the on-the-fly multi-travel options that are being offered. Again, they seem to be more trouble than they're worth.

    I know the sub-top-tier Revelation (RCT3?) has its detractors here because of fork height, but it seems like the most consistent workhorse fork and seems easy to source, to boot.

    There is still too much snow on the ground here. I have too much time to think about this stuff.

  23. #523
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    On second thought, strike the Rev. I'm leaning towards White Brothers, although that could easily change before I actually pull the trigger on a fork. All travel internals plus a threshold lockout mechanism kinda sells it for me.

    Anybody have any strong opinions about why this is a bad idea?

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    On second thought, strike the Rev. I'm leaning towards White Brothers, although that could easily change before I actually pull the trigger on a fork. All travel internals plus a threshold lockout mechanism kinda sells it for me.

    Anybody have any strong opinions about why this is a bad idea?
    I'm a RS Rev fan. Got two, one on a DW Sultan and the other on the HonZo. I used to be a Fox guy but I never got full travel and my Fox forks didn't feel as plush in a linear way (hmmm... if that makes sense) compared to the Rev. WB is a bit too booteek to me... I've seen buds' WB forks suffer stiction, but I admit this was a few years ago. Maybe they're better nowadays.

    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    I am contemplating pulling the spacer and going 140. As climbing is not my strongpoint, have you noticed any ill effects while climbing with the extra travel?...love the custom rig, btw
    I was fearful that climbing (slow speed) manners might be a problem with a ~67º HA... not so! The front end isn't too high (I'm running spacers under a rise stem plus rise bars, but then I'm 6'3") and I've never noticed any adverse wheel flop. Honestly, I'd try 160mm travel if there was a way to get it. Go for it!

    --sParty
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
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  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by CBizzie View Post
    I am contemplating pulling the spacer and going 140. As climbing is not my strongpoint, have you noticed any ill effects while climbing with the extra travel?...love the custom rig, btw
    Thanks! It climbs fine with 140. Didn't slow down my climbing at all. I never lock my fork out up hill so it's not like my fork is at 140 when I'm climbing out of the saddle. It's sagging. Try it out. You've got nothing to lose. You can always throw the spacers back in there. However, I do recommend you give it at least 3 or more rides to get used to the difference.
    "Bound to cover just a little more ground"

  26. #526
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    Right on guys...thanks for the feedback. Think I will give 140 a shot and see how I like it....

  27. #527
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    A box showed up from Bikeman today. Serial number 12I-169D is now mine!

  28. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    A box showed up from Bikeman today. Serial number 12I-169D is now mine!
    Gitcher camera out & bild that sumbytch UP!

    --sParty
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  29. #529
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    Improvements

    1. Muck Guard
    2. 35t Renthal Chainring
    3. E-thirteen Lg-1 bash/chain-keeper
    4. XT Trail pedals

    BTW, I have a set of black Canfield Crampon Ultimate pedals for sale, used only twice. All packaging and extra pins included. I've come to terms with the fact that I'm a SPD guy. email me at rayhoward619@gmail.com if interested.

    FYI, with the Fox 34 set at 140mm the head angle is about 66.5 degrees according to my droid phone app, and the bottom bracket is at 12.6 inches (2.4 Ardent rear / 2.35 Hans Dampf front)






  30. #530
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    My favorite 2013 so far! Looks killer with the new changes, and I told ya so, dropping to 130mm wasn't worth it.

    No big hills around you? I couldn't imagine going bigger than a 33T for me really, how big is your cassette?

    No more love for the D.O.S.S. either I see.
    Last edited by eurospek; 01-12-2013 at 01:18 PM.
    konahonzo

  31. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurospek View Post
    My favorite 2013 so far! Looks killer with the new changes, and I told ya so, dropping to 130mm wasn't worth it.

    No big hills around you? I couldn't imagine going bigger than a 33T for me really, how big is your cassette?
    Thanks, and I believe you have the best looking 2012. There are some steep mountains out in Socal, but I stand 90% of the time, so gearing is fine. The cassette is 11-34t. Also, the bigger ring seems easier to push, maybe a mechanical advantage or just in my head.

  32. #532
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    I've only gotten as far as bottom bracket chasing and facing. It needed it though. Head tube is quite out of spec as well.

  33. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by p4nh4ndle View Post
    I've only gotten as far as bottom bracket chasing and facing. It needed it though. Head tube is quite out of spec as well.
    Yep, I would definitely recommend anyone building up a Honzo from scratch, take the time to do the face/chase/reaming, especially the headtube- and it can be tricky to find a 44mm reamer. Another thing I learned building this bike, the cane creak headsets are probably a lot more tolerant of the head tube being undersize, since their skirts are shorter.

    Anyways after a few weeks of sorting out my headset issues, finally got the Honzo out yesterday. Really fun bike! Corners great.... the chainstays are noticeably shorter than my old canfield yelli screamy. Fit is great for me personally- definitely close to the medium yelli. The brakes and used drivetrain parts need some more work, I am sure the sub-freezing temps weren't helping.

    My build started out second-hand/ super budget, but ended up kinda blingy.
    Honzo 16" frame, powdercoated locally
    Fox float 34 rlc fork
    Easton Haven Carbon wheels (shared with my Banshee Prime)
    Chromag fubars OSX, uncut, 50mm chromag stem
    King inset 7 headset
    Formula the one brakes, 203mm F/ 180mm R
    KS-i950r seatpost (3yrs old!)
    Sram X9 shifters/derailuers, XT cranks, 32t front, 12/36 R
    Blackspire chainguide
    Straitline pedals (someday I'll get red AMPs)

    Thanks again to Eurospek & Playdead for the build help!

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/8381062834/" title="IMG_4983 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8189/8381062834_2ed10aa42c_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_4983"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/8379985225/" title="IMG_4996 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8098/8379985225_fa1f96ce54_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_4996"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/8379985535/" title="IMG_4997 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8186/8379985535_b29e3f0085_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_4997"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/8379986275/" title="IMG_5002 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8379986275_6504484765_c.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="IMG_5002"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/8379986779/" title="IMG_5003 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8221/8379986779_dd892da74f_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_5003"></a>

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/10323561@N07/8381065536/" title="IMG_4998 by emailsucks98, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8371/8381065536_fa11f9b2bf_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="IMG_4998"></a>
    Last edited by FM; 01-14-2013 at 11:47 AM.

  34. #534
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    Looks great! Anxiously awaiting your comparison to the Yelli Screamy.
    konahonzo

  35. #535
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    Kona Front Derailleur Conversion

    Firstly Hi,

    This being my first post showing off my Shimano SLX 22-36T Hollowtech II conversion with Shimano XT dérailleur. I fitted a Black-Spire Stinger E type bracket and direct mount XT FD-M770 dérailleur to match, drilled the E type bracket for lowering the dérailleur nearer to the sprockets, fitted a Sram X7 gear change to match the rear .

    I did away with the lower chain guide as it causes too much drag for my liking.

    I picked up all the information I needed from this great site

    The conversion went straight forward, looks factory and importantly, works perfectly.

    Being an average biker I needed a little assistance in getting up steeper climbs, this conversion will certainly work

    I will post up pictures once I hit the required post count!


    Andy

  36. #536
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    Nice, KonaAndy. I'm sure you're aware, one small niggle with running a front derailuer is it will cut into your tire clearance when the deerailuer is in the granny gear position.

    Speaking of which- happy to report the schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35 does clear the Honzo chainstay yoke, with the sliders in the shortest position!


    leaving for ride #2 in about :20.....

  37. #537
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Nice, KonaAndy. I'm sure you're aware, one small niggle with running a front derailuer is it will cut into your tire clearance when the deerailuer is in the granny gear position.
    Sure, but how about the frozen marmot clearance...?

    And why's that HLC logo all hazy...???

  38. #538
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    Clearance would be an issue with the Ardent Maxis, I changed my tyres for hybrids because I don't ride anything more than light dirt track, so no need for full off road tyres . Good to know which tyres do give clearance though
    Last edited by Konandy; 01-16-2013 at 04:12 AM.

  39. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by Konandy View Post
    ...I don't ride anything more than light dirt track,..
    What made you decide on a Honzo for a path bike? Just curious...

  40. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by NslrPrtn View Post
    What made you decide on a Honzo for a path bike? Just curious...
    I weigh 250lbs and didn't trust a different material to support my slight figure:-D

  41. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeePhroh View Post
    Sure, but how about the frozen marmot clearance...?

    And why's that HLC logo all hazy...???
    Posting hazy pictures is totally legal!

    As for frozen marmot clearance- funny...
    Ride #1 I had new formula brakes paired with a Galfer/magura rotor. Horrible rubbing.... turns out the galfer rotors are quite a bit thicker than formulas or even Avids. Swapped rotors to Avids and the rubbing is gone! Also got my drivetrail to quit skipping.

    This thing loves to manual and jump! Honzo love!

  42. #542
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    Enduro Racing on the Honzo

    Love this bike!

  43. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Love this bike!
    2016 Honzo Ti SS
    2015 Kona Paddy Wagon commuter
    2 bikes, 2 gears.
    www.mngnt.com

  44. #544
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    Way nice sled; like the color scheme & component choices.

    Routing of a couple cables looks wonky to me cuz I prefer my cables come around the head tube, but that's all you. I cross mine under the TT if they need to go to the other side of the bike.

    Sorry for the nit. She really looks swell.

    --sParty
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    Quote Originally Posted by riverrat
    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    Love this bike!
    Quote Originally Posted by noot View Post
    Not seeing anything either.
    konahonzo

  46. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sparticus View Post
    Way nice sled; like the color scheme & component choices.

    Routing of a couple cables looks wonky to me cuz I prefer my cables come around the head tube, but that's all you. I cross mine under the TT if they need to go to the other side of the bike.

    Sorry for the nit. She really looks swell.

    --sParty
    Thanks sParty. I toyed with running the cables around the headtube but decided aginst it since the forward cable stop is so close to the TT/DT junction. crossing them behind that would have bugged me
    I just left them plenty long so there's no sharp bends.
    really I am still tuning it in though.

    I got a couple more rides in and I am loving the Honzo however!
    Compared to the Yelli, it's got a noticably lower/shorter back end, and it feels better in the air.. mainly since the back-end is so solid. It's about as stiff as steel gets. I've hit a bunch of 5-footers on it and the frame certainly doesn't care. The small Honzo and medium yelli fit very similar, wheelbase is almost identical.

    I would say the Honzo is a better descender, corners, jumps & drops better, mainly just due to the shorter back end. I also like the lines better and the sliding drop-outs.

    The yelli felt similar, but a bit more of an all-rounder trail bike... slightly higher BB, longer stays & taller HT and standover make it a little more of a pedaling fit. The lighter weight of the yelli was noticable too.

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by FM View Post
    Thanks sParty. ... I also like the lines better and the sliding drop-outs.
    ... slightly higher BB, ... The lighter weight of the yelli was noticable too.
    Yeah, my SS HonZo feels like it weighs almost as much as my 2x10 FS Turner Sultan... whoa!

    But I do love that the sliders allow me to SS the HonZo. Here in the Pacific Northwet it just doesn't make sense to expose expensive drivetrains to the grit, silt, rain & mud. I'll put the 10-spd gears on when the high country starts to open up and 15 mile rides are once again considered short.

    Only thing I'd personally change about my HonZo (if I had a magic wand to wave) is I'd move the BB up to 13" or 13.5" high. I run 195mm cranks and therefore I smack the ground a lot with this bike. It's okay, I'm used to it and most of Orygun's trails consist of flow.

    That said, I love the HonZo. Kona has created a bike that's way fun to ride, haven't they.

    Looking at yours makes me want to refinish mine. I also love the camo mudflap girl scheme elsewhere in this thread.

    --sParty
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    Jaybo... quit *****ing and move to Texas

  48. #548
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    Finally got my 2013 Honzo (L) after waiting 7 weeks. Got a great deal so it was worth waiting for. Installed a KS 950i dropper post so far, next is tubeless. Having some issues with the chain guide. In the top three gears the chain doesn't feed onto the lower der. Pulley. It seems like the lower guide holds the chain out too far and the angle is too severe causing the chain to ride off the side of the lower pulley. It makes an annoying clacking sound. I tried removing the spacers between the guide and iscg mount plate. It helped a little but still no good. Anyone else have this problem?

  49. #549
    FM
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    Quote Originally Posted by tvan View Post
    I tried removing the spacers between the guide and iscg mount plate. It helped a little but still no good. Anyone else have this problem?
    do you have a spacer between the frame and the BB on the driveside?
    depends on your cranks but most brands call for a 2.5mm spacer there...

  50. #550
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    I will check but I think it's more of an alignment problem between the chain guide pulley and lower der. Pulley. It's creating a cross-chaining effect. I tried rotating the guide plate and adj the B tension screw on der but didn't help much. If the guide pulley was closer to the chainring it would be better, I have to see if there is any adjustment for it. This is my first chain guide and I already hate it

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