any wheel build's durability is a function of build quality(trueness in all four aspects), spoke quality, rim quality, incidence angle, nipple quality, hub quality, and tire choice more than anything else, in that order, given the riding conditions and use/abuse as constant. that's my personal opinion based on nothing more than a rudimentary and inexperienced knowledge of wheel building and mechanics, but... i would like to hear sound reasoning to refute my claims.
the incidence angle of the spokes is the only thing you're absolutely, de-facto, inherently changing by changing dish... but you're also re-truing tension, round, and lateral true when doing this... so the real answer is that
it depends on how its done, and the closer to 90 degrees that incidence angle, the worse the durability, exponentially. so as long as the other three aspects of true aren't thrown out, or the temper of the spoke's metal is compromised in the re dishing process, or the nipples threads becoming worn, it shouldn't do anything but make the wheel stronger. however, it matters solely on how well it's trued in the redishing... because redishing isn't as easy or linear or low-risk as people make it out to be... especially if the wheel parts aren't top-quality. redishing for fitment seems like a silly thing to me... i don't think it's as important and having good tires that fit the bike... how many of you are putting 50+ c tires on that are higher quality than some really nice 35's? i'm not sure they're even made, to be honest. 35c's are perfect on this frame.
really when it comes down to it, it's better to have a perfectly dished wheel with a small, high quality tire ran at good pressure(not too high, not too low) in asymmetric stays than it is to have a wheel dished to maximize tire clearance that's off the centerline of the hub, but with a bigger tire. tires acting on the wheel can't make up for a good quality wheelbuild.
basically what i'm trying to say is that it all comes down to evenness of tension per side, and given that, it doesn't matter where you dish it... your hub is the problem if the tension is too drastically different from ds to nds with a perfect dish, and your tire clearance is your tire clearance... work within that constraint.
here's a picture of a very aggressive fat biiiiiig tire in my rove ti, for comparison. i'm really pushing the limits of this frame's clearance.
i wouldn't recommend running a tire that's even barely larger than this, or you'll have huge, insurmountable problems that will likely culminate in you losing your job, morgtgage, family, car, and best three physical features or attributes. not to mention wreak havoc on your sex life... these are all real outcomes of running any tire larger than this: