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  1. #1
    Reputation: Dusty Bottoms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004

    Warden Carbon: brake lines and routing

    Hello everyone,

    The first round of carbon hit HQ in Vancouver over the weekend and Noel is personally QC'ing each unit before shipping. This will take a few days but we feel it's worth it. Units are shipping ASAP.

    If you are porting over a build from another bike, you should plan on ordering up a new rear brake line at 2000mm. The internal routing is super clean, but also probably longer than what you have now.

    About routing, we will be posting up a 'how-to' video about this, in the meantime here are the highlights:

    - route the shifter line and the brake line from the back of the bike forward
    - remove the downtube protector and trap door to access the lines and help them head up the downtube towards the headtube
    - Near the headtube, best practice would be to finish the routing with the fork removed. This allows you to push the lines up thru the headtube which makes them very easy to grab. Then you re-direct the line tips towards the routing doors on the sides of the headtube.

    If you don't feel like removing your fork, that's ok too. Just remove the internal routing doors on either side of the headtube, create a lasso with a zip tie and pull the lines thru the doors. The other way is just faster.

    Cheers everyone, we are super excited to get these bikes out on your trails!
    Director of Sales: Knolly Bikes

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bradical's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Great info, Very proactive helpful customer support

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    May 2004
    That is a very kind heads up - nothing like sitting with a new frame waiting on a brake line!

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dude!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    The headset approach to threading the cables is the easiest (wonder who figured that one out). The Knolly doors is one of the best internal routing set-ups out for any bike that I have built to date. It is an uber slick set-up.

    I bought a new brake hose for this, this way I installed the hose without getting fluid everywhere. It is way more confusing figuring out which hose I needed for my shimano brakes than installing. As Kevin stated is is longer, I did the outside estimate with my existing brake and it wouldn't have fit.

    I grease the cables/hose VERY SLIGHTLY when makes passing the cables through the rubber door seals/boots. It reduces friction without tearing up the rubber boot. The wipe off the excess grease.

    Last bit of advice, take your time. It is not hard, but you want ensure the cables have gone through all pieces correctly before tightening it up or finishing up the cable/hose with lever or shifter. Biggest common mistake forgetting to thread the cable through the plastic door shell. I made this mistake on the Delirium and almost did it on the Warden.

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