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Thread: New brake pads

  1. #1
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    New brake pads

    I currently have avid trail brakes on the Chilcotin & am foreseeing the need to replace soon as 3 days in Whistler is coming up. I'm being proactive by ordering some instead of getting a lube job by buying locally.

    What is the current recommendation of compound & backing for gravity stuff?

  2. #2
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    I was going to suggest Discobrakes, but doesn't look like they make pads for the Trails.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  3. #3
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    sintered, I've found organic to both break down and contaminate too easily.
    2013 Knolly Endorphin | 2013 Knolly Chilcotin | 2014 Knolly Podium.
    Tweed Valley, Scotland.

  4. #4
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    what are your pads like now,,, how much life's left in them,,,, what do you intend to ride,,,, trails, bikepark,,,,,
    i have been to whistler 11 times in 6 years, ( soon to be 12 times) and have only replaced 3 sets of pads in that time.
    originally i run magura louise bats freeride, for arround 4 years, and only replaced the rear pads once, i replaced them with some of them disco brake pads, as they were mega cheap, and im a tight git, they work well, but they squeel like mad in the wet,and seem to loose a bit of their initial bite, they are thicker than the oem pads, but fit no problem, and as they were the hard compound ones, they just dont seem to wear out, they still going strong now, i replaced the fronts with oem magura pads,
    last year i replaced the maguras with m820 saints, as i was getting faster and the louise seemed to lack power, i killed a set of rear pads within the 3 weeks that i was there, but that was riding for 3 weeks solid in the park, from first lift to last lift, again it was my rears that wore out,
    probably down to my poor technique and dragging my rear brake lol. the front are ok still but are pretty low, they are the standard shimano that came with the brakes,
    i replaced the rears with some nukeproof one i got cheap off chainreaction, they are the enduro compound ones, i also have some brake authority pads to try, but havnt used them yet.
    the nukeproof ones felt everybit as good as the oem saint ones, though they dont have that fancy finned backing plate, and they were a little bit tight to get the rotor back in, as they are a bit thicker than the oems. they bite well, have great stopping power, are silent, even in wet crappy conditions,

    my brother colin has had his formula megas since 2008 and replaced the pads once, both front and rear, he replaced them with the disco brake pads, he doesnt rate them very much, he says theyre poo, he got the hardest compound ones, they are showing no signs of wear still going strong, but they dont work very well, when it's wet they squeel like a banshee,

    with the cheaper pads its a risk you take, some are good and some arent,,, the softer ones wear out quick, the harder ones dont wear at all but dont stop,,, some fall to pieces and some last, the superstar pads seem to get mixed reviews,
    i got oem pads for my maguras as chainreaction had them cheap, and the same reason i got the nukeproof's and the brake authority.

    hope this helps you,,,, as i said before, if your pads have lots of beef left in them, chances are you should be ok for 3 days in whistler, but we always take spares with us as whistler is a bloomin ripoff,

  5. #5
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    40% bike park 60% outside trails

    yeah my pads are 60% currently
    I am just trying to be proactive instead of getting the lube job by being "that guy" with no spares
    I think I've went through 1 set in 4 years on my XC bike
    But I'm a puss at Whistler so I'll be on the brakes a lot!! :-)

    I just ordered a sintered set from pricepoint- hopefully they are quiet because the organics howl like a baboon!

    thank you for the input

  6. #6
    Perpetual Hack
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    I have Avid XO Trails on my Podium.
    I too am going to need pads soon.
    Trying to figure out if I want to stay organic or go sintered.
    One thing is I DETEST noisy brakes....so sintered is a big ??

    Have been thinking of trying the one of each route....and keep a sharp eye on pad wear.

    I'm 225 or so onbike, and where I usually play has only 750 feet of vert or so, (Flat-ario) so runs are usually 4-6 minutes. Trails are a mix of natural DH and Berm/Jump with about 70% natural. Trips to more vert are about once a year - this year we are thinking Mount St.Anne for the WC, last year was Snowshoe....

    Thoughts?

    michael
    A Dirtbag since 1969.
    A Knomer since 2007.

    Knolly Podium V.2
    Knolly Delirium
    Knolly Delirium-T
    RM Slayer . . .

  7. #7
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    I run Avid Elixirs on both my Knollys. Not the best brakes I know...but its what I have and I seem to stop ok. I stole my wifes XT's last year for a single Enduro race and had 4 crashes which I think were mostly front tire and because they were so powerful. Gave them back as I didn't want one bike with 'powerful' brakes and one without.

    I generally buy pads in batch through various connections. Last year I bought a couple pairs of both and was going through organic pads in no time. (Every 10 - 12 rides on local pedal up DH trails. I have switched to metal / sintered pads only and they definitely last much longer...long enough that I can forget when I last switched pads anyway.

    re: noise - my brakes are totally silent unless they overheat or get wet. I keep the rotors clean and will sand them down with super fine sand paper and clean with alcohol.

    I did a 4k gravel road climb last weekend and had to ride down the road (!) and my brakes overheated and were wailing like a scalded cat. The minute the road flattened out and I could get off the brakes for 10+ seconds the sound went away. The levers were also filling up (moving away from the bar) and then collapsing (to the bar) and it was quite amazing trying to manage my braking / brake fluid temps

    I read recently and now fully believe that the most common cause of brake noise is uneven deposit of residue on the rotor. This could be external residue deposited on the rotor (dirty hands / grease / brake fluid or maybe pine sap) or it might be residue from the new pads that were not burnt in correctly. Cleaning the rotors as described above makes a huge difference and if this doesn't work - you might (and I have in the past) done the same to the pads. You can also cook the pads in a frying pan ... google that and don't piss the missus off.

    When they start squealing in the wet...I also frequently find some fine sand / grit and drop it into the pads...which always seems to help. Have been doing that ever since I was taught that high tech trick by a mechanic in Moab way back when who asked me a couple times if I trusted him to solve my problem (and not punch him) before he went outside to the flower garden and hose pipe and did just that.

    definitely helps to spend some time burning new pads in.
    I support EMBA

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