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  1. #1
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    Looking for some guidance on 1x11 drivetrains

    Hello!
    So I am a new proud owner of a chilcotin, and I have a 2x10 XT drivetrain on the bike now. Im wanting to shed some weight from the bike (it is clocking in around 34 lb) and the most obvious way is by losing the front derailleur. Can anybody tell me of their experience with switching from XT 2x10 to X01 1x11? I live in Denver, and we have some steep, sustained climbs around here that I use the granny for on the regular. Also, I plan to ride the chili on extended rides in the 20-25 mile range in high alpine environments like Crested Butte and Kenosha Pass. Would I suffer tremendously by switching to the 1x11?
    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Why not get a 42T cog for the rear of your 10spd and try going narrow wide single ring up front? About 1/10th the price of going 1x11. If it doesnt work out, or you cant live with the gearing, you are only out about $150 rather than somewhere around $1500 for xx1 or xo1.

    Just my .02

  3. #3
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    One other thing that I saw in an article on nsmb was people using narrow wide front ring and still keeping their granny for "emergencies" Presumably you can drop the chain to the granny manually if you really need that low gear then move it back up for the 90% of your riding that doesn't require the granny. You still get to ditch the front mech and shifter. For me personally, there is too much altitude gain in to short of a distance where I ride to drop the granny. I tried staying in the "middle" ring (32T) and never lasted very long before having to bail out. Maybe give this a try first, assuming you already have the shifters and front mech? If you can get through a couple rides without shifting to granny, get a narrow wide and toss your extra parts.

    BL
    Last edited by BikeLust; 03-05-2014 at 10:01 AM. Reason: added link to nsmb
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  4. #4
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    Just ordered the 42t Wolf tooth rear cog, $90. Comes in Red, Black, and Silver. 2-3 week delay.

    Would assume if you did 10 speed XT rear with the big Wolf Tooth, and a 30t up front you'd be fine in the long spinny stuff. Maybe even need a 32 upfront if the 42t is just too easy to spin.

    Hope also just came out with a 40t at FrostBike, no idea when that will hit. Shifting should be better I'm told.

  5. #5
    TSC
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    28X42 feels about the same as 24X36 (ignoring the weight savings)
    30X42 feels about the same as 24X34 (ignoring the weight savings)

    26X42 feels about the same as 22X36 (ignoring the weight savings)
    28X42 feels slightly easier than 22X32 and slightly harder than 22X34 (ignoring the weight savings)
    30X42 feels slightly easier than 22X30 and slightly harder than 22X32 (ignoring the weight savings)
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  6. #6
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    Although there is some weight to be lost by going 1x, a lot more can be lost at the wheels and tires. What is your build?
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  7. #7
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    How are you doing 28x42 and 26x42? Not with a 104 BCD crank I take it?

    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    28X42 feels about the same as 24X36 (ignoring the weight savings)
    30X42 feels about the same as 24X34 (ignoring the weight savings)

    26X42 feels about the same as 22X36 (ignoring the weight savings)
    28X42 feels slightly easier than 22X32 and slightly harder than 22X34 (ignoring the weight savings)
    30X42 feels slightly easier than 22X30 and slightly harder than 22X32 (ignoring the weight savings)
    MCM #269

    "Lightweight , durable , inexpensive
    Pick 2."

  8. #8
    TSC
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeLust View Post
    How are you doing 28x42 and 26x42? Not with a 104 BCD crank I take it?
    Direct Mount for SRAM GXP Cranks by wolftoothcomponents.com

    I think other manufacturers make something similar.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    28X42 feels about the same as 24X36 (ignoring the weight savings)
    30X42 feels about the same as 24X34 (ignoring the weight savings)

    26X42 feels about the same as 22X36 (ignoring the weight savings)
    28X42 feels slightly easier than 22X32 and slightly harder than 22X34 (ignoring the weight savings)
    30X42 feels slightly easier than 22X30 and slightly harder than 22X32 (ignoring the weight savings)
    Yeah but, what does 32x42 feel like?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    Although there is some weight to be lost by going 1x, a lot more can be lost at the wheels and tires. What is your build?
    Shes a little piggie all over to be honest...
    CCDBAcs
    170 Lyrik rc2dh
    Hope E4 brakes
    XT 2x10
    Hadley hubs with Flow Rims
    Minion DHF 2.5
    High Roller2 2.4
    KS Lev

    like I said shes a fat piggie, but I love the build! I plan to post some pics tomorrow...

  11. #11
    TSC
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    Yeah but, what does 32x42 feel like?
    32x42 feels the EXACT same as a 22X28.92, a 24X31.53, a 26X34.15, a 28X36.75, or a 30X39.41 (ignoring the weight savings)

    NOTE: Values are rounded off to the nearest 100th because I didn't want to be absurd.


    FYI: I have a buddy or three that are looking at new mountain bikes. I'm trying to get as many as possible to the Knolly (and Ibis) demo at OTE. Hopefully, I will see you there.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by getupgetdown View Post
    Shes a little piggie all over to be honest...
    CCDBAcs
    170 Lyrik rc2dh
    Hope E4 brakes
    XT 2x10
    Hadley hubs with Flow Rims
    Minion DHF 2.5
    High Roller2 2.4
    KS Lev

    like I said shes a fat piggie, but I love the build! I plan to post some pics tomorrow...
    Sounds like a solid build, I wouldn't want to mess with that set up too much. Maybe drivetrain is the key.

    I would start with the suggestions to stay in your large ring for at least a week. Maybe even disable the front D (turn the limit adjust) and force yourself to stay on that big ring.

    If you stay with the XT cranks the lowest you can go is the Race Face N/W 30t. The move to 11 speed will cost you, converting the hub will be close to $200. Hadley Freehub XD Driver XX1 for SDH hubs at Balle Racing and Hadley XX1 142mm X 12mm Thru Axle Conversion Kit at Balle Racing
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  13. #13
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    Thanks Calhoun! I may end up keeping the Chili as is since shes sort of a heavy girl (so I can get up the long steep climbs still), and converting my Ripley to 1x11...or selling the Ripley and getting an Endo and going 1x11 on it...who knows, maybe Ill find a way to keep the Ripley and get an Endo! Such terrible problems to have

    Thanks for the input folks!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    32x42 feels the EXACT same as a 22X28.92, a 24X31.53, a 26X34.15, a 28X36.75, or a 30X39.41 (ignoring the weight savings)

    NOTE: Values are rounded off to the nearest 100th because I didn't want to be absurd.


    FYI: I have a buddy or three that are looking at new mountain bikes. I'm trying to get as many as possible to the Knolly (and Ibis) demo at OTE. Hopefully, I will see you there.
    LOL. Thanks for the "rough estimates", Tyson. I appreciate your exactness. I had looked up those gear inch equivalents at one time before I ordered my 42t cog but that was like two months ago and I'd forgotten. Running 24 x 32 on most all my steepest climbing sections now with a rare drop down into 24x36 so I think I'll be fine.

    I'm seriously thinking about coming down to the OTE demo at the end of this month. Is that also the OTE festival thing?

  15. #15
    TSC
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    I'm seriously thinking about coming down to the OTE demo at the end of this month. Is that also the OTE festival thing?
    That's the one. I haven't been on a bike in a long time, so look for the fat pasty guy if you go.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

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