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  1. #1
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    Knolly Podium Pedalling Issues

    Actually, my Podium pedals very well; the 410 uncut post helps to get the full leg extention. I get up Fromme with a 1:1 ratio no problem.

    However, and I need help here, when I stand up and mash the pedals to go up a steep, such as found on the Baden Powell, I get ghost shifting.

    I have done: tightened all rear suspension bolts (or checked to see if any needed it), lengthened my rear shifter cable, adjusted the rear derailleur to its maximum inward position, ensured the full length cable housing is UNATTACHED at the linkages... no go. I get ghost shifting.

    I hate to ask but is perhaps rear end flex the issue? I cannot see how: the chainstay arch is one piece, as is the seat stay arch, and I have had a 4 bar link bike before that did not ghost shift (and its rear end was not even close to the quality of the Podium). Is there any advice anyone can give? Do you have to run a REALLY long rear cable to take up slack? I could simply make the cable longer but it is already long with slack....

    There is no flex at the hub/cassette either. Or cranks. For all the years I have been around bikes I cannot figure this one out.

    Ideas?

  2. #2
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    Pivot bearings in good shape?
    Maybe a picture of your setup?
    Dérailleur flex?
    Chain length?
    Contact with your cable during crank strokes/suspension action?

  3. #3
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    I have the original Podium and have never had issues with ghost shifting. There is no flex in the rear so I don't know how that plays into this. Is the derailleur a take off of another bike ? Have you tried new cable and housing ?

  4. #4
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    I have the orginal Podium and have never had issues with ghost shifting . Is the deraileur a take off from another bike? Have you replaced cable and housing in awhile ?

  5. #5
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    I would replace the deraileur and you may find that the issue is resolved. I had a similar issue and it turned out the deraileur was compromised, but you could never tell by looking at it or adjusting it.

  6. #6
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    My Podium is only 4 weeks old. It is not pivots or the frame for sure.

    Chain does NOT hit the cable. Ghost shifting happens only on hard uphill pedal strokes.

    Rear derailleur is a XTR rapid rise from a previous bike but it is only 6 months old. Never happened on the old bike.

    The stress of a hard pedal stroke is felt ON TOP of the chain and cassette, not below it. The strain (or slack) is below.

    Could chainline have anything to do with it? I can't really adjust the chainline much but from the rear it appears to be somewhat skewed. That is most likely normal.

    Worn cassette maybe?

  7. #7
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    I would start with replacing the chain and cassette.

  8. #8
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    What about mounting a gopro in a strategic location then go replicate the issue to give you another vantage point?

  9. #9
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    Something similar happened on my Chili when everything was brand new and shifting perfectly. Check your chain. You might have two links that are bound up, and not bending at the pivot. You won't notice it through the derailleur, but when it hits the cassette, the tension on the top will cause the stuck links to suddenly give, making it skip one or two cogs at the top; a very aggravating issue.

    It's pretty easy to find if you know what to look for. Just run the chain forward, with the bike on a stand, and watch the chain going through the derailluer hanger to ensure every link is perfectly synced up and fully flush with the rings. Sometimes the hanger will wiggle a bit, as the bad links pass through.

    I was able to fix my chain partially, by prying at the bad links, but I'd suggest a new one if you have one handy.

    Edit: Oops, I didn't starting reading from the top. Mine didn't ghost shift, it just skipped. Not sure if a bad chain would cause ghost shifting.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Big B. The chain is new, but the cassette is not. I am going to replace the cassette when I get back from vacation next week, but the chain is as new as the bike. I find the suggestion "not bending at the pivot" a bit disconcerning since the chain is a type where it has the "quick link" and I took out only the links I needed. The quicklink was inserted and off I went. So the issue, if you are right, could only be at one place, since it is the only place that was "played with". But, as usual, I will get more new gear and we will see.

    Why did I know that my bike breaking was a big deal....

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfly View Post
    Thanks Big B. The chain is new,
    My chain was brand new as well (SRAM PC951), and the two bad links were in the middle, nowhere near the quick link. It was weird, but I was stoked when I found the problem. It was driving me crazy.

    Good luck.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfly View Post
    Thanks Big B. The chain is new, but the cassette is not. I am going to replace the cassette when I get back from vacation next week, but the chain is as new as the bike. I find the suggestion "not bending at the pivot" a bit disconcerning since the chain is a type where it has the "quick link" and I took out only the links I needed. The quicklink was inserted and off I went. So the issue, if you are right, could only be at one place, since it is the only place that was "played with". But, as usual, I will get more new gear and we will see.

    Why did I know that my bike breaking was a big deal....
    new chain and old cassette could be the issue for sure. once you replace the cassette tell us what happens

  13. #13
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    What spacers do you have on either side of your BB?

  14. #14
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    Big B: and to think this is the exact chain I have.... I take it checking every link cannot be that tedious......

  15. #15
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    I am using a Shimano BB, and the spacers on either side are the stock ones with the BB. I would suck in the BB on either side if I could but I am maxed out on that. The BB shell is 83.

    I am not new to bikes but with this crank setup I would have to add spacers to the outside if I sucked in the BB shells, and it would not solve anything. My cranks are perfectly aligned on either side to boot.

    I think I will start with the cassette first, then chain. If not, then I am really up for ideas.

    I am sure it is not rear end flex.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfly View Post
    Big B: and to think this is the exact chain I have.... I take it checking every link cannot be that tedious......
    Right, only takes a minute. If it is the problem, it will be noticeable once you are looking for it.

  17. #17
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    What cranks are you using? The manual usually outlines what you need to get the correct spacing, and symmetrical may not necessarily be correct.

  18. #18
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    In my experience, the spacing has never been symmetrical.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bionicman View Post
    What about mounting a gopro in a strategic location then go replicate the issue to give you another vantage point?
    +1. I like this idea because it could be caused by lots of things. Also a picture and list of details of your bike setup would help.

    Questions:

    1) Does it ghost shift up or down?
    2) Does it ghost shift regardless of the rear cog you are in?
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfly View Post
    Thanks Big B. The chain is new, but the cassette is not. I am going to replace the cassette when I get back from vacation next week, but the chain is as new as the bike. I find the suggestion "not bending at the pivot" a bit disconcerning since the chain is a type where it has the "quick link" and I took out only the links I needed. The quicklink was inserted and off I went. So the issue, if you are right, could only be at one place, since it is the only place that was "played with". But, as usual, I will get more new gear and we will see.

    Why did I know that my bike breaking was a big deal....
    IME, mixing chain,chain ring and cassette has always ended up with trouble. The chain, cassette and chain ring wear together. Once you mix and match, nothing lines up and major shifting problems occur. It works fine in my driveway and fails miserably on the trail under load. I replace everything at the same time, and so far has worked out very well. I did a build once, mixing drive train parts. The ride was 10 minutes of frustration before heading back home. I measured a 3 year old chain with a new chain. The old chain was almost a 1/4" longer over it's entire length.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAKESNAKE View Post
    IME, mixing chain,chain ring and cassette has always ended up with trouble. The chain, cassette and chain ring wear together. Once you mix and match, nothing lines up and major shifting problems occur. It works fine in my driveway and fails miserably on the trail under load. I replace everything at the same time, and so far has worked out very well. I did a build once, mixing drive train parts. The ride was 10 minutes of frustration before heading back home. I measured a 3 year old chain with a new chain. The old chain was almost a 1/4" longer over it's entire length.
    if you change chains early it can extend the rest of your drive train's life expectancy. chains are cheap. changing them regularly saves money on the cassette and chain ring/rings. once your chain is worn it screws the rest of the drivetrain and you have to change it all.

    btw, any word on the op getting a handle on this yet?

  22. #22
    Delirious Tuck
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    Chainguide and Chainline under compression kicking things out of whack perhaps?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackfly View Post
    I am using a Shimano BB, and the spacers on either side are the stock ones with the BB. I would suck in the BB on either side if I could but I am maxed out on that. The BB shell is 83.

    I am not new to bikes but with this crank setup I would have to add spacers to the outside if I sucked in the BB shells, and it would not solve anything. My cranks are perfectly aligned on either side to boot.
    Just a quick note on this. With your new RF cranks, you should have 2 spacers on the drive side and one the non-drive side. This is the official word from Knolly.

    Also, you mentioned in your other thread that you had to "shim" the rear wheel to fit the 157 hub spacing. Did you use proper spacers or something less formal?

  24. #24
    Knomer
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    Have you tried using your shifter barrel adjuster at all? Sounds like your shifter cable might not be tight enough and wants to sag the derailleur into the next lower gear when the bike starts moving around. Try 3-4 clicks counterclockwise to start, but could need adjustment in either direction.
    Global Director of Sales: Knolly Bikes

  25. #25
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    I got back from vacation and replaced my old(er) 8sp cassette with a brand new one. The chain is only a month old.

    I don't have any REAL hills to test the cassette, but forcing down on my uphill driveway I don't get the skip.

    I do notice one thing. The chainline might to be to blame. When I reverse pedal the chain eventually falls into 2nd gear, like the reverse ramps of the teeth on the cassette are pulling the chain down. This phenomenon goes away in 2nd or 3rd gear as the chainline is more straight. I have adjusted the front ring as much as I can within the confines of the chainguide. I cannot adjust the cranks as they are adjusted perfect center. I will try this setup on Saturday. Hope it works.

    I COULD steal an unused ring from my old cassette to shim the cassette more to the derailleur... anyone tried this?

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