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  1. #1
    TSC
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    Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks

    Throughout different threads I see a lot of good information on tune-ups, repairs and other bike mechanic stuff. Unfortunately, when I need the info itís often difficult/impossible to find. My guess is that Iím not the only one with this problem, so Iím starting this thread as a place to collect any useful tips & tricks on being a Knolly DIY Bike Mechanic.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  2. #2
    TSC
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    Bearing Maintenance

    -- How much crunch....
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  3. #3
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    Good idea TSC. The only tip I can think of right now is to have plenty of cold beer and patience (or Root Beer if you are KRob.) And if you have been fighting the same issue for too long, leave it alone and come back to it.

    Also find a good wrench at the LBS and figure out what beer they like. Nothing like bringing in a wheel and a six pack the night before a road trip.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miťrcoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  4. #4
    MC MasterShake
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    I've got one for the Chilcotin. You know the upper linkage that has the bushings? You might want to check the torque on those bolts. When I removed my shock to send it in I noticed my suspension was barely moving. I figured I blew out a bearing so I went through each set of linkage until I came to the elbow with the bushings. As soon as I loosened the bolts the whole linkage dropped. After tightening all the linkage and giving a fresh squirt of WD-40 I confirmed that this was the problem.

    Fast-forward a week later when I got my shock back before installing I torqued down the linkage and I noticed that it still had a good bit of binding. I greased the crap out of the bushings and that helped but I still found it lacking. So I reduced the torque and used loc-tite on the bolts and it was look a whole new bike. It was so much plusher that I had to adjust the shock to deal with it. Be careful with these bolts though as the 1st time I didn't use loc-tite and the bolts came out.

    I was going to post a pic of the linkage but I don't know how with the new forum. Can anyone tell me how you can reply and add a photo?

    Cheers!

  5. #5
    Biking Like Crazy!
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    I was going to post a pic of the linkage but I don't know how with the new forum. Can anyone tell me how you can reply and add a photo?

    Cheers!
    Yeah, and how do you make letters BOLD and use the "smiley" face!
    Last edited by blcman; 03-29-2013 at 12:26 PM.
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  6. #6
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    More Bearing maintenence

    I posted this a while back. Bearing maintenence

    If you want to add photo's with a reply, use the Go advanced reply button and scroll down to the picture section.

    Use reply or reply with quote. A new box will open. The Go advanced button is at the bottom of that box.


    Edit: Thanks for the info on the bushing linkages Woodyak. I agree these bolts should require a thread locker. These are the only bolts in the linkage that have required attention from loosening.
    Last edited by bubba13; 03-29-2013 at 10:38 AM.
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  7. #7
    Just roll it......
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    On this note, what's a decent (quality and price) torque wrench that folks are using?

  8. #8
    Biking Like Crazy!
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    I posted this a while back. Bearing maintenence

    If you want to add photo's with a reply, use the Go advanced reply button and scroll down to the picture section.

    Use reply or reply with quote. A new box will open. The Go advanced button is at the bottom of that box.
    Thanks bubba13!
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  9. #9
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    I have a question: Is it possible to tell if the pivots need maintenance without tearing them down? I bought a 2011 Delirium second hand late last season and only got in about ten (very dry) rides in.
    Linkage operated freely from what I could tell when I built it up, but I have no idea what the previous owner did in terms of service intervals.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by cerebroside View Post
    I have a question: Is it possible to tell if the pivots need maintenance without tearing them down? I bought a 2011 Delirium second hand late last season and only got in about ten (very dry) rides in.
    Linkage operated freely from what I could tell when I built it up, but I have no idea what the previous owner did in terms of service intervals.
    The only bearings I would be concerned about are the lower main bearings near the BB. Two seasons of riding and the rest of the bearings on the Delirium looked great. The main's were rusty and crunchy at the 6 month point... I finally replaced the main's after a year + 6 months. The linked post #6 bearing maint. above is fairly easy to do. Just pay attention to the washers and their locations.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme View Post
    On this note, what's a decent (quality and price) torque wrench that folks are using?
    Norbar and Teng are good options.

  12. #12
    TSC
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    My inspiration for this thread.

    Yesterday I was performing some annual maintenance on my Chiliótaking it apart and checking/lubing the bearingsówhen I came to a bolt I couldn't loosen. The bolt was attached to the shaft that goes through the center part of the linkage (to which the red arrow in the following picture is pointing).

    Name:  Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks Shaft Location.jpg
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    This is my attempt at an exploded view so you get an idea of how it all goes together.

    Name:  Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks Exploded View.jpg
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    The shaft had a bolt in each side, so getting the bolt out of one side was no problem; but once one bolt is out you have nothing to stop the shaft from spinning. I tried lots of things but nothing would free the bolt. I didnít want to hook vice-grips or anything to the shaft that would damage it so I decided to use the old standbyóDUCT TAPE!

    Name:  Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks.jpg
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    Notice that the duct tape is tore. The bolt was so tight that it wouldnít budge when holding the shaft with pliers. (Even after all my precautions and care I still put a small nick in shaft. SOB! I used some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to buff the nick out.)

    To get the bolt loose I had to put the shaft in a vice. NOTE: The vice was only touching the duct tape and I didnít tighten the vice down hard on the shaft. (The shaft has to be very smooth and round to function properly.) I only used the vice to create a larger friction area.

    Anyway, thatís my tip/trick to get the second bolt out of the shaft if the bolt feels like it was smothered with red Loctite and then cross-threaded for good measure.

    Iím sure that some of you have a better method so please let everyone know because it could save a lot of people a lot of time.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  13. #13
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    I just replaced the end bolts on the same push link pivot TSC mentions above. And as careful as I was I nicked up my pivot axle as well trying to get the second bolt out. Wrapped a few pieces of thick rubber around the axle and clamped the hell out of it with a vice grip. And it still barely broke loose. But when it did, I'd put a few scrapes and nicks in it.

    I hit the pivot with a few light strokes of a file, and just thew it back in. Hope it will be ok, but who knows. Going riding tomorrow and I don't have much option.

    So if you try to mess with this axle, just be careful. Maybe soft jaws in a bench vise would work, but I don't have one of those....
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  14. #14
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    TSC or anyone else that may know...See that washer on the left in your picture? Is there another one on the opposite side of that axle? When I removed mine I only noticed that washer on one side.

    Thanks! And nice job with the thread.

  15. #15
    fat & decripit old guy
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    To take that shaft off I put it in a drill presses jaws then just use your allen key to remove the bolt. I held the drills head still with channel locks.

  16. #16
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    Mayha, there should be a washer on both sides, to go between the bearing and the pivot shaft.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Mayha, there should be a washer on both sides, to go between the bearing and the pivot shaft.
    Damn, I must have dropped the other washer when I removed the axle!

  18. #18
    TSC
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I just ... Wrapped a few pieces of thick rubber around the axle...

    Maybe soft jaws in a bench vise would work, but I don't have one of those....
    I don't have a vice with soft jaws. I'm pretty sure rscecil007 is talk about rubber jaws on a vice. (Sometimes when you are working with aluminum you can use aluminum jaw inserts but I wouldn't try that here.) I would make sure to only use rubber or tape.

    My first choice was to use one (or two) jelly-type sticky pads instead of duct tape but I couldn't find the one I have (and I live in the sticks so going to Walgreens/Home Depot wasn't an option); so I used duct tape. It works well but requires a bit of cleanup afterwards.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  19. #19
    TSC
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Mayha, there should be a washer on both sides, to go between the bearing and the pivot shaft.
    Adding on to what rscecil007 said: you will notice that the inner, metal part of the bearing is raised above the dust seal. This is because you don't want any moving parts touching your dust seal. Rotating/moving parts touching your dust seal will destroy it (or, at a minimum, pop it out of place); making it useless. To protect against this, Knolly's bearing inserts have a small raised ridge (I tried to highlight it in red to make it more visible) to make sure the insert only touches the metal part of the bearing. The washers do the same thing on the other side. Note: in other areas of the bike's suspension there is no need for washers as it is aluminum that will be butted up against the bearing. Since aluminum doesn't deform it won't hit your dust seal, making washers unnecessarily.

    Hope this helps!


    Name:  Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks Seal Guards.jpg
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    BTW, if the bearing insert pictured looks too big for the hole; it is. I used the bigger one to make the raised ridge easier to see.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  20. #20
    TSC
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    This is a good article for the DIY bike mechanic; although I wouldn't follow their "pack your bearing full of grease" advice on anything other than suspension bearings, which are very limited in their rotation speed. Too much grease in a bearing will slow it down and will cause heat buildup in high-RPM bearings.

    Workshop: Caring For Mountain Bike Suspension Pivots - BikeRadar
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  21. #21
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    on this topic, heres something really cool that intense are putting on for their customers on pinkbike later

    April 2nd, Intense Cycles Live in The Lounge by CaneCreekCyclingComponents - Pinkbike

    thats a cool way of nailing 000's of queries in one go. Knolly, you up for something like this?

  22. #22
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    The tool recommended to to me by Knolly for removing the second bolt from the "shaft" was heat. I had the rusty bolt issue and this was the only one I could not get to break free. The issue is the loctite thats used. I used a heat gun on high and it did the trick.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I'm pretty sure rscecil007 is talk about rubber jaws on a vice.
    Yup, that's what I was talking about. Thanks for the correction. I need to go buy a vice and a set of those.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyD View Post
    The tool recommended to to me by Knolly for removing the second bolt from the "shaft" was heat. I had the rusty bolt issue and this was the only one I could not get to break free. The issue is the loctite thats used. I used a heat gun on high and it did the trick.
    Good to know for anyone reading. Wish I had known that though and not eff'd my pivot axle up. Oh well. I used blue loctite on all my bolts when I re-installed them. No idea what Knolly recommends.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    Fast-forward a week later when I got my shock back before installing I torqued down the linkage and I noticed that it still had a good bit of binding. I greased the crap out of the bushings and that helped but I still found it lacking. So I reduced the torque and used loc-tite on the bolts and it was look a whole new bike. It was so much plusher that I had to adjust the shock to deal with it. Be careful with these bolts though as the 1st time I didn't use loc-tite and the bolts came out.
    EXCELLENT GUIDANCE! I found the same thing two weeks back.

    What torque value did you settle on - just short of spec?

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