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  1. #1
    TSC
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    Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks

    Throughout different threads I see a lot of good information on tune-ups, repairs and other bike mechanic stuff. Unfortunately, when I need the info itís often difficult/impossible to find. My guess is that Iím not the only one with this problem, so Iím starting this thread as a place to collect any useful tips & tricks on being a Knolly DIY Bike Mechanic.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  2. #2
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    Bearing Maintenance

    -- How much crunch....
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

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    Good idea TSC. The only tip I can think of right now is to have plenty of cold beer and patience (or Root Beer if you are KRob.) And if you have been fighting the same issue for too long, leave it alone and come back to it.

    Also find a good wrench at the LBS and figure out what beer they like. Nothing like bringing in a wheel and a six pack the night before a road trip.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miťrcoles!"

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  4. #4
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    I've got one for the Chilcotin. You know the upper linkage that has the bushings? You might want to check the torque on those bolts. When I removed my shock to send it in I noticed my suspension was barely moving. I figured I blew out a bearing so I went through each set of linkage until I came to the elbow with the bushings. As soon as I loosened the bolts the whole linkage dropped. After tightening all the linkage and giving a fresh squirt of WD-40 I confirmed that this was the problem.

    Fast-forward a week later when I got my shock back before installing I torqued down the linkage and I noticed that it still had a good bit of binding. I greased the crap out of the bushings and that helped but I still found it lacking. So I reduced the torque and used loc-tite on the bolts and it was look a whole new bike. It was so much plusher that I had to adjust the shock to deal with it. Be careful with these bolts though as the 1st time I didn't use loc-tite and the bolts came out.

    I was going to post a pic of the linkage but I don't know how with the new forum. Can anyone tell me how you can reply and add a photo?

    Cheers!

  5. #5
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    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    I was going to post a pic of the linkage but I don't know how with the new forum. Can anyone tell me how you can reply and add a photo?

    Cheers!
    Yeah, and how do you make letters BOLD and use the "smiley" face!
    Last edited by blcman; 03-29-2013 at 01:26 PM.
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  6. #6
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    More Bearing maintenence

    I posted this a while back. Bearing maintenence

    If you want to add photo's with a reply, use the Go advanced reply button and scroll down to the picture section.

    Use reply or reply with quote. A new box will open. The Go advanced button is at the bottom of that box.


    Edit: Thanks for the info on the bushing linkages Woodyak. I agree these bolts should require a thread locker. These are the only bolts in the linkage that have required attention from loosening.
    Last edited by bubba13; 03-29-2013 at 11:38 AM.
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  7. #7
    Just roll it......
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    On this note, what's a decent (quality and price) torque wrench that folks are using?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bubba13 View Post
    I posted this a while back. Bearing maintenence

    If you want to add photo's with a reply, use the Go advanced reply button and scroll down to the picture section.

    Use reply or reply with quote. A new box will open. The Go advanced button is at the bottom of that box.
    Thanks bubba13!
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  9. #9
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    I have a question: Is it possible to tell if the pivots need maintenance without tearing them down? I bought a 2011 Delirium second hand late last season and only got in about ten (very dry) rides in.
    Linkage operated freely from what I could tell when I built it up, but I have no idea what the previous owner did in terms of service intervals.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cerebroside View Post
    I have a question: Is it possible to tell if the pivots need maintenance without tearing them down? I bought a 2011 Delirium second hand late last season and only got in about ten (very dry) rides in.
    Linkage operated freely from what I could tell when I built it up, but I have no idea what the previous owner did in terms of service intervals.
    The only bearings I would be concerned about are the lower main bearings near the BB. Two seasons of riding and the rest of the bearings on the Delirium looked great. The main's were rusty and crunchy at the 6 month point... I finally replaced the main's after a year + 6 months. The linked post #6 bearing maint. above is fairly easy to do. Just pay attention to the washers and their locations.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebxtreme View Post
    On this note, what's a decent (quality and price) torque wrench that folks are using?
    Norbar and Teng are good options.

  12. #12
    TSC
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    My inspiration for this thread.

    Yesterday I was performing some annual maintenance on my Chiliótaking it apart and checking/lubing the bearingsówhen I came to a bolt I couldn't loosen. The bolt was attached to the shaft that goes through the center part of the linkage (to which the red arrow in the following picture is pointing).

    Name:  Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks Shaft Location.jpg
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    This is my attempt at an exploded view so you get an idea of how it all goes together.

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    The shaft had a bolt in each side, so getting the bolt out of one side was no problem; but once one bolt is out you have nothing to stop the shaft from spinning. I tried lots of things but nothing would free the bolt. I didnít want to hook vice-grips or anything to the shaft that would damage it so I decided to use the old standbyóDUCT TAPE!

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    Notice that the duct tape is tore. The bolt was so tight that it wouldnít budge when holding the shaft with pliers. (Even after all my precautions and care I still put a small nick in shaft. SOB! I used some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to buff the nick out.)

    To get the bolt loose I had to put the shaft in a vice. NOTE: The vice was only touching the duct tape and I didnít tighten the vice down hard on the shaft. (The shaft has to be very smooth and round to function properly.) I only used the vice to create a larger friction area.

    Anyway, thatís my tip/trick to get the second bolt out of the shaft if the bolt feels like it was smothered with red Loctite and then cross-threaded for good measure.

    Iím sure that some of you have a better method so please let everyone know because it could save a lot of people a lot of time.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  13. #13
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    I just replaced the end bolts on the same push link pivot TSC mentions above. And as careful as I was I nicked up my pivot axle as well trying to get the second bolt out. Wrapped a few pieces of thick rubber around the axle and clamped the hell out of it with a vice grip. And it still barely broke loose. But when it did, I'd put a few scrapes and nicks in it.

    I hit the pivot with a few light strokes of a file, and just thew it back in. Hope it will be ok, but who knows. Going riding tomorrow and I don't have much option.

    So if you try to mess with this axle, just be careful. Maybe soft jaws in a bench vise would work, but I don't have one of those....
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

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    TSC or anyone else that may know...See that washer on the left in your picture? Is there another one on the opposite side of that axle? When I removed mine I only noticed that washer on one side.

    Thanks! And nice job with the thread.

  15. #15
    fat & decripit old guy
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    To take that shaft off I put it in a drill presses jaws then just use your allen key to remove the bolt. I held the drills head still with channel locks.

  16. #16
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    Mayha, there should be a washer on both sides, to go between the bearing and the pivot shaft.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Mayha, there should be a washer on both sides, to go between the bearing and the pivot shaft.
    Damn, I must have dropped the other washer when I removed the axle!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I just ... Wrapped a few pieces of thick rubber around the axle...

    Maybe soft jaws in a bench vise would work, but I don't have one of those....
    I don't have a vice with soft jaws. I'm pretty sure rscecil007 is talk about rubber jaws on a vice. (Sometimes when you are working with aluminum you can use aluminum jaw inserts but I wouldn't try that here.) I would make sure to only use rubber or tape.

    My first choice was to use one (or two) jelly-type sticky pads instead of duct tape but I couldn't find the one I have (and I live in the sticks so going to Walgreens/Home Depot wasn't an option); so I used duct tape. It works well but requires a bit of cleanup afterwards.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Mayha, there should be a washer on both sides, to go between the bearing and the pivot shaft.
    Adding on to what rscecil007 said: you will notice that the inner, metal part of the bearing is raised above the dust seal. This is because you don't want any moving parts touching your dust seal. Rotating/moving parts touching your dust seal will destroy it (or, at a minimum, pop it out of place); making it useless. To protect against this, Knolly's bearing inserts have a small raised ridge (I tried to highlight it in red to make it more visible) to make sure the insert only touches the metal part of the bearing. The washers do the same thing on the other side. Note: in other areas of the bike's suspension there is no need for washers as it is aluminum that will be butted up against the bearing. Since aluminum doesn't deform it won't hit your dust seal, making washers unnecessarily.

    Hope this helps!


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    BTW, if the bearing insert pictured looks too big for the hole; it is. I used the bigger one to make the raised ridge easier to see.
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  20. #20
    TSC
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    This is a good article for the DIY bike mechanic; although I wouldn't follow their "pack your bearing full of grease" advice on anything other than suspension bearings, which are very limited in their rotation speed. Too much grease in a bearing will slow it down and will cause heat buildup in high-RPM bearings.

    Workshop: Caring For Mountain Bike Suspension Pivots - BikeRadar
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  21. #21
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    on this topic, heres something really cool that intense are putting on for their customers on pinkbike later

    April 2nd, Intense Cycles Live in The Lounge by CaneCreekCyclingComponents - Pinkbike

    thats a cool way of nailing 000's of queries in one go. Knolly, you up for something like this?

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    The tool recommended to to me by Knolly for removing the second bolt from the "shaft" was heat. I had the rusty bolt issue and this was the only one I could not get to break free. The issue is the loctite thats used. I used a heat gun on high and it did the trick.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I'm pretty sure rscecil007 is talk about rubber jaws on a vice.
    Yup, that's what I was talking about. Thanks for the correction. I need to go buy a vice and a set of those.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyD View Post
    The tool recommended to to me by Knolly for removing the second bolt from the "shaft" was heat. I had the rusty bolt issue and this was the only one I could not get to break free. The issue is the loctite thats used. I used a heat gun on high and it did the trick.
    Good to know for anyone reading. Wish I had known that though and not eff'd my pivot axle up. Oh well. I used blue loctite on all my bolts when I re-installed them. No idea what Knolly recommends.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    Fast-forward a week later when I got my shock back before installing I torqued down the linkage and I noticed that it still had a good bit of binding. I greased the crap out of the bushings and that helped but I still found it lacking. So I reduced the torque and used loc-tite on the bolts and it was look a whole new bike. It was so much plusher that I had to adjust the shock to deal with it. Be careful with these bolts though as the 1st time I didn't use loc-tite and the bolts came out.
    EXCELLENT GUIDANCE! I found the same thing two weeks back.

    What torque value did you settle on - just short of spec?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Adding on to what rscecil007 said: you will notice that the inner, metal part of the bearing is raised above the dust seal. This is because you don't want any moving parts touching your dust seal. Rotating/moving parts touching your dust seal will destroy it (or, at a minimum, pop it out of place); making it useless. To protect against this, Knolly's bearing inserts have a small raised ridge (I tried to highlight it in red to make it more visible) to make sure the insert only touches the metal part of the bearing. The washers do the same thing on the other side. Note: in other areas of the bike's suspension there is no need for washers as it is aluminum that will be butted up against the bearing. Since aluminum doesn't deform it won't hit your dust seal, making washers unnecessarily.

    Hope this helps!


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    BTW, if the bearing insert pictured looks too big for the hole; it is. I used the bigger one to make the raised ridge easier to see.
    Big thanks for the pics TSC!! That confirms that I'm missing one for sure. Do you think the hardware store holds washers of that type or is this bike industry specific?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyD View Post
    The tool recommended to to me by Knolly for removing the second bolt from the "shaft" was heat. I had the rusty bolt issue and this was the only one I could not get to break free. The issue is the loctite thats used. I used a heat gun on high and it did the trick.
    I was thinking of that but I was afraid to use heat on aluminum as it's pretty low. Metals - Melting Temperatures
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    Big thanks for the pics TSC!! That confirms that I'm missing one for sure. Do you think the hardware store holds washers of that type or is this bike industry specific?
    I'm guessing you can buy it from a hardware store. From the Knolly website:

    FASTENERS:
    We use only high end name brand fasteners ensuring that our fastener products are consistent and reliable. All Fasteners are stainless steel and where required, super hard grade 12.9 plated steel. We do this to ensure that the fasteners don't corrode and don't bend.

    We use M8 bolts for all of our shock mounting hardware on our heavier duty frames, again from a strength perspective. And, wherever possible, we use commonly available metric fasteners so that they are easily replaced if damaged or lost.
    Email Knolly support for the details (e.g. is it stainless steel); and take the one you have to your hardware store so you can make sure to get the same one.
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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    EXCELLENT GUIDANCE! I found the same thing two weeks back.

    What torque value did you settle on - just short of spec?
    The article I posted in post #20 talks about lubing your bushings. It's worth the read.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  30. #30
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    Another thing:

    I hope everyone noticed that the "nut" with a long, smooth shaft that attaches the chainstay to the bike goes in from the drive side, and the bolt that attaches to it goes in from the non-drive side. When I put it in the opposite way, it looked like it almost fit but there was a little lip showing. When I reversed it to the direction described above, it fit flush on both sides.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I was thinking of that but I was afraid to use heat on aluminum as it's pretty low. Metals - Melting Temperatures
    If you don't have access to a heat gun, try a hair dryer on high. Alternatively, if the part is clean of any combustibles, throw it in the oven.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanS. View Post
    If you don't have access to a heat gun, try a hair dryer on high. Alternatively, if the part is clean of any combustibles, throw it in the oven.
    I especially like your oven idea, although with the attached pivot arm that's a lot to bake. In the oven you could take it up to a really high temperature without worrying about overheating any particular part of it. Wish I had thought of this. All I thought was "torch"; then added in my bad luck and thought "melted shaft"; so I backed away.

    The one thing I did do was put the shaft in the freezer overnight before putting it through the bushings. I thought I would give it a try because of the tight tolerances; but I really can't say if it did any good.
    Last edited by TSC; 04-03-2013 at 08:31 AM.
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    Hello.
    I have a frame with less than a year old and I got rust in the linkage screws.
    Do you know if it is possible to buy identical but titanium made?
    I think a frame with this price should sold with betters screws.

    Thanks

  34. #34
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    Knolly acknowledged this is a problem for some frames. Get in contact with them and they will replace all the affected hardware.

    Quote Originally Posted by graypaw View Post
    Hello.
    I have a frame with less than a year old and I got rust in the linkage screws.
    Do you know if it is possible to buy identical but titanium made?
    I think a frame with this price should sold with betters screws.

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by easygonow View Post
    Knolly acknowledged this is a problem for some frames. Get in contact with them and they will replace all the affected hardware.
    OK, thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    EXCELLENT GUIDANCE! I found the same thing two weeks back.

    What torque value did you settle on - just short of spec?
    Exactly. Just a hair short of spec.

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    Replacing the bolts.

    I finally got around to replacing the rusty bolts on my early release Chilcotin. The new bolts have a black coating vs. the standard bolt finish from the originals.

    Everything went well and I wanted to share how I got the bolt off of the shaft that TSC has mentioned in earlier posts. I also wanted to mention to check the bearings. The only bearings that were in bad shape were the ones at the rocker arms. Both bearings were frozen with rust. To fix them I popped off the bearing cover, with the rockers off the bike, and soaked them in with Tri Flow. Worked the bearing back and forth until they broke free and did a clean and re-grease.

    When I got to the bolts that thread into the axle at the horse shoe link, the left side came loose with out issue. As stated in TSC's posts, the right side bolt would not budge after removing the assembly from the frame. Luckily, I remembered I have a Dewalt 1/4 hex driver/impact cordless tool. I also had a 1/4" bit with the correct allen tip. So, I wrapped the axle in old inner tube, clamped it in a vise, and used the impact to remove the bolt. The impact wrench made the job very easy to do. Hope this helps.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks-001.jpg  

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  38. #38
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    Nice bit of info. I like the use of the tube and the impact driver. One not of caution for those using the impact driver: be sure to have it going in the unloosen direction as these are "flat head" bolts (i.e. angled so they fit flush) which you can drive into the axle/shaft and flare its ends.

    Also, the bearings are cheap enough to replace on your own; but be sure to let Knolly know of any bad parts as they can show a problem with the manufacturer that needs to addressed.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  39. #39
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    Not sure if anyone has mentioned but another way of holding any shaft without damage
    (its what I've used in the past on stanchions).

    Take a suitable size block of wood(pine 4X2) drill it to the size of said shaft or slightly smaller , then cut it in half down the centre of the hole.
    You can clamp that shaft between the two halves in a vice.
    With this method you get a larger surface area to clamp & no damage.

  40. #40
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    Plug your water bottle cage holes!

    Most Knolly bikes do not come with bolts in the bottle cage holes. If water enters your frame then it will collect near the bottom bracket.

    In another thread mayha suggested using silicone or bolts; to which G-AIR added that disk rotor screws or screws from your front derailleur will work.

    Personally, I like the idea of extra hardware in case of an emergency but you should definitely consider at minimum using silicone.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  41. #41
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    Protect your Paint/Frame

    There are lots of good tapes or stickers to protect your paint. I've found that a blow dryer is hot enough to make the thick tapes and stickers conform to the curves on my Knolly.

    If you're trying to protect against dents then you will need something thicker and/or stiffer.

    Obviously, adding protection sooner, rather than later, is the wise choice.

    This thread lists many of the options available: What is that thick/foamy frame protection?
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  42. #42
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    Anyone know what the 'breakaway torque' is for the loctite Knolly use on the Chilcotin linkage bolts?

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    Hey guys I don't know anything about these linkages. How often should these be serviced? And what are the consequences if you don't?

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    After the first ride on my chilcotin I noticed play in the upper seat stay pivot. I can move the pivot that has the bushing side to side by hand, and no amount of torquing things down seems to help. By the looks of that pivot the only thing holding it snug would be the bushing width. I'm hoping my frame isn't out of spec, for such an expensive frame I really don't want to be dealing with problems after one mild ride. Any ideas? I emailed knolly but haven't heard back yet. Are they all at Sea Otter?

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    After the first ride on my chilcotin I noticed play in the upper seat stay pivot. I can move the pivot that has the bushing side to side by hand, and no amount of torquing things down seems to help. By the looks of that pivot the only thing holding it snug would be the bushing width. I'm hoping my frame isn't out of spec, for such an expensive frame I really don't want to be dealing with problems after one mild ride. Any ideas? I emailed knolly but haven't heard back yet. Are they all at Sea Otter?
    Do you mean the push link pivot axle?
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

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    Kevin got in touch with me today and he says that the axle is just slightly too long, and that the fix is to grind .2mm off. Essentially the bolts bottom out on the axle before the frame tightens down on the bushings.

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    Looks like I got it all fixed now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    Kevin got in touch with me today and he says that the axle is just slightly too long, and that the fix is to grind .2mm off. Essentially the bolts bottom out on the axle before the frame tightens down on the bushings.
    qbert2000 posted how to fix it:

    So, the bottom of the horseshoe connects into the top of the seatstay. There is an axle in there that is slightly too long. (approx 73mm and should be 72.70-72.75mm) Take 2 allen keys to that pivot (fig. E)and one of the bolts will break loose. Back it out half way, because then you will hit it with a mallet AFTER you detach the linkage (fig C) on the opposite side of the bike, that attaches the seatstay directly to the seattube. If you don't detach that linkage from the seattube, you will not be able to punch the axle thru.

    Just drag the axle across a flat file about 20 times.

    i used a caliper to make sure i just took off the prescribed length. you dont want to take off too much. i used a lathe to shorten mine, but a file would make quick work of it as well.
    His pictures are gone but I have a previous post on this thread showing the part. (I labeled the axle "shaft", cause I'm up on all the tech jargon .) Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks

    Edit: I'm too late; DOH! Hopefully it will help someone else.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    Looks like I got it all fixed now.
    I had the same issue, same fix.

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    for those with hard to remove bolts a nice trick is to install the proper sized t-handle into the bolt then take a ball peen hammer & tap the t-handle - the shock transfered to the bolt will usually allow it to be removed without hassle

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