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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Right now I can't find a cheap DHX (granted I haven't looked very hard). I think I am just gonna grab that vivid air. I am trying to get her on the trails ASAP. Enough blabber from me. I ordered everything (I hope) today, I am looking at 2-3 weeks for pics.

    -Large Black Ano Chili
    -Lyrik RC2DH Solo Air
    -Vivid Air (maybe Monarch Plus)
    -SLX Cranks, MRP Mini G2, 1x10 Sram X7
    -SLX Brakes
    -KS Dropper Post

    Thats about it in a nutshell Getting stoked!
    Enjoy!!!
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I've no idea what year it is. From what Craig told me it didn't matter, I don't think they changed the DHX 4.0 or 5.0 ever.
    They changed the pro-pedal. It used to be a nob with 20+ settings. Now it is a 3-position switch.

    BTW, DHX 3.0 is "coming soon" according to the AVY sight.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    found this guy on pinkbike

    Fox DHX 3.0 coil 7.75 X 2.25 - Pinkbike
    ad says 3.0 but the shock itself actually says 4.0. someone already said the 3 isn't doable right now at avalanche, but if that really is a 4, it'd work

  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    ad says 3.0 but the shock itself actually says 4.0. someone already said the 3 isn't doable right now at avalanche, but if that really is a 4, it'd work
    Yeah, wrong size though right? Knolly's site says 7.875...

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Yeah, wrong size though right? Knolly's site says 7.875...
    I am thinking the guy got some of his numbers wrong, although maybe there is a bike out there that uses a 7.75.
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  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Yeah, wrong size though right? Knolly's site says 7.875...
    Funny. I sent the following email to Cane Creek only seconds ago.

    Your “Shock Fit Finder” says the following for the Knolly Chilcotin.

    YOUR BIKE
    MAKE: Knolly
    MODEL: Chilcotin
    YEAR: 2012
    SELECTED SHOCK - DBAIR
    SHOCK MEASUREMENTS
    7.75 in x 2.25 in (200 mm x 57.00 mm)
    200 mm equals 7.875 inches, not 7.75 inches.

    The Knolly website says that the Chilcotin shock size is: 7.875 x 2.25. Furthermore, I measured it on my bike and it matches the Knolly website.

    I think someone mistyped and left out the 8.

    Hope this helps.

    tyson
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Calhoun View Post
    I am thinking the guy got some of his numbers wrong, although maybe there is a bike out there that uses a 7.75.
    Shocks that size do exist: FLOAT RP2, RP23 DRCV
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    ad says 3.0 but the shock itself actually says 4.0. someone already said the 3 isn't doable right now at avalanche, but if that really is a 4, it'd work
    Just talked with Craig and he says that the 3.0 was an OEM shock and isn't as tunable as the 4.0 or 5.0 even after being AVYed.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Just talked with Craig and he says that the 3.0 was an OEM shock and isn't as tunable as the 4.0 or 5.0 even after being AVYed.
    This shock is advertised on another forum as a 3.0 rebuilt with a 4.0 chamber for $120 (not 150). Same guy.
    FS: 661 pads, Fox DHX, Mani Swingerl, Thompson post, XTR R der, stems, bars & more

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Also, I have a 30.9 KS dropper post and I have found shims online. Any one use these? Should I get one or stay away?
    Try this:

    Aluminium shim internal diameter = 30.9 mm.
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  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheezwhip View Post
    that's what i used. no pun intended

  12. #412
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    I already bought one, its raw aluminum though...should have gotten a black one...oh well

  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    They changed the pro-pedal. It used to be a nob with 20+ settings. Now it is a 3-position switch.

    BTW, DHX 3.0 is "coming soon" according to the AVY sight.
    The newer DHX Air's comes with a 2 position lever that we change to 3 positions. The older air DHX's had the Propedal blue knob which after we modify it, it will retain the 15 clicks and now is Low speed compression adjustment. The DHX 3.0 has no adjuster knob and if we mod them the low speed compression adjust will have to be preset internal.

    Hope this helps.

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by crseekins View Post
    The newer DHX Air's comes with a 2 position lever that we change to 3 positions. The older air DHX's had the Propedal blue knob which after we modify it, it will retain the 15 clicks and now is Low speed compression adjustment. The DHX 3.0 has no adjuster knob and if we mod them the low speed compression adjust will have to be preset internal.

    Hope this helps.
    Thanks for the additional info, Craig. I don't think you mentioned that during our discussion.

    BTW, it was nice talking to you. I've spent the rest of the day studying the bike shocks and suspensions. I've learned a lot and still have tons to learn.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  15. #415
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    Gahh!!! I can't decide on a rear shock!

    I am set on either getting a Vivid Air or a Monarch Plus RC3. I want to stay with air, and I know nothing about tuning rear shocks. I don't think I could make use of a CCDBair, and I haven't been the biggest fox fan lately.

    This is gonna be my do-it-all bike. Lots of climbing and just as much, if not more descending (primarily riding bike parks in the summer). Will the vivid be too much on the climbs?

    Sorry guys! First world problems...

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Gahh!!! I can't decide on a rear shock!

    I am set on either getting a Vivid Air or a Monarch Plus RC3. I want to stay with air, and I know nothing about tuning rear shocks. I don't think I could make use of a CCDBair, and I haven't been the biggest fox fan lately.

    This is gonna be my do-it-all bike. Lots of climbing and just as much, if not more descending (primarily riding bike parks in the summer). Will the vivid be too much on the climbs?

    Sorry guys! First world problems...
    To my knowledge, nobody has one of those shocks on a Chilcotin, so I think your best bet would be to query a thread specific to those products.

    Personally, I'm not sure why you keep coming back for advice as you haven't listened to any of it. You keep saying that you want a generic shock and we keep saying that you can have a custom-tuned shock for about the same price as a generic shock.

    I'm going to try to persuade you one more time (because that's the type of guy I am ).

    Here's a quote from a thread on suspension setup from Pink Bike:
    Damping...
    NOTE: common speed sensitive damping adjustments effect the amount of resistance to movement by restricting oil flow, not the speed or speed range at which the resistance takes effect. - a factory re-tune would be required for the latter.

    See: Suspension SETUP, a 'how to' guide... - Pinkbike Forum
    That's what Avalanche Racing offers--a custom tuned shock with speed sensitive dampening. A generic shock will NEVER be able to give you the performance of a custom-tuned (i.e. a shock set up specifically for your weight and your riding style).

    The suggestion to get a used DHX 4.0 or 5.0 and have Craig "Avy" it for you has been done by rscecil007 and others. rscecil007 has already told you how wonderful it is. I have new DBair and I plan on replacing it with a used DHX shock that has been Avy'd. BTW, you don't have to get a coil-over DHX (Fox DHX 5.0Speed sensitive Damper Adjuster Kit).

    If you don't like the idea of a used shock then you might buy a WOODIE (Piggyback shock). tiSS'er and Muttonchops, who are both incredibly knowledgeable, are ditching their top-of-the-line generic shocks for the WOODIE.

    Give Craig a call (860-537-4306). You might find it enlightening.

    Hopefully this post is more persuasive than b!tchy. Sorry if I hit the later. I'm just trying to help you hit a home-run (which ain't gonna happen with the generic shocks at which you are looking).
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  17. #417
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    TSC, I heard what you said. I am not a shock guy. If if feels good, I'll like it. I liked the monarch plus. I was just wondering if a propedal is really necessary on the chili.

    Not trying to derail this thread, it has been a great source of knowledge and bike porn.

    I'll post pics when its all built up!
    Last edited by mrniceguy42; 08-30-2012 at 09:33 PM.

  18. #418
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    Unless you are looking to race up buff fire roads that go for miles the chilcotin does not need any form of platform / pro pedal IMHO

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by wilks View Post
    Unless you are looking to race up buff fire roads that go for miles the chilcotin does not need any form of platform / pro pedal IMHO
    Awesome. Yeah, I have a single pivot right now (diamondback mission) which greatly benefits from the propedal, I wasn't too sure about the 4x4. I'm ordering the vivid air. Thanks.

    If this fails, I will call Craig.

  20. #420
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    Hello, this is my first post so take is with a grain of salt. I bought a chilli based mostly on what I read on this forum. It came with a rp23 and was replaced with a vivid air quickly. The vivid works amazingly well compared to the rp23. The vivid has more support, yet takes square edge hits MUCH better and uses all of its travel.

    PS. Thanks to the members here, I have been a long time lurker and have always found good info here. Thought I would contribute some since nobody has used the vivid on a chilli.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by coddog View Post
    Hello, this is my first post so take is with a grain of salt. I bought a chilli based mostly on what I read on this forum. It came with a rp23 and was replaced with a vivid air quickly. The vivid works amazingly well compared to the rp23. The vivid has more support, yet takes square edge hits MUCH better and uses all of its travel.

    PS. Thanks to the members here, I have been a long time lurker and have always found good info here. Thought I would contribute some since nobody has used the vivid on a chilli.

    Welcome to the club. Mandatory pics please.
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  22. #422
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    Thanks tisser, should have thrown a pic in with the post. Would have gone into more detail with the vivid air, but niceguy seems to be set on it. Will post pics soon.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Awesome. Yeah, I have a single pivot right now (diamondback mission) which greatly benefits from the propedal, I wasn't too sure about the 4x4. I'm ordering the vivid air. Thanks.

    If this fails, I will call Craig.
    Enjoy your shock and give us a ride report when you get it all built up.
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  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by coddog View Post
    Hello, this is my first post so take is with a grain of salt. I bought a chilli based mostly on what I read on this forum. It came with a rp23 and was replaced with a vivid air quickly. The vivid works amazingly well compared to the rp23. The vivid has more support, yet takes square edge hits MUCH better and uses all of its travel.

    PS. Thanks to the members here, I have been a long time lurker and have always found good info here. Thought I would contribute some since nobody has used the vivid on a chilli.
    Thanks for pitching in. I'm hesitant to recommend someone buy a shock without first trying it on the bike in question or getting a recommendation from someone who has (especially with air shocks). I really doubted that mrniceguy42 would get a hit from someone with a Vivid on a Chili, so you're the man of the hour!

    Great to know that the vivid works well on the Chili! I hope I didn't come off as a Vivid hater. I have a Vivid coil on my Giant Glory and it rides quite nicely.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATT View Post
    My Day Glow Yellow Chilco It's really glow in the dark!
    Oh yeah! That would be quite a sight coming at you in the dark shady trails.

  26. #426
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    Mrniceguy, if you want a Monarch Plus, call Push. Before I bought the Avy I called them, and they had a few left in the Chili size. They aren't on the website anymore, but they had a few. I passed b/c a Pushed Monarch Plus with the bottom out bumper or whatever was going to cost me over $600 shipped. But if that's what you want, probably a good route to go.

    And for the record, I'll just say I think both the CCDB coil and DB air are very good shocks. I've been on a DB coil on multiple frames for at least 4 years. And the DB Air was great. My switch to the Avy was not b/c I thought they were bad or anything of the sort. Just want that to be clear.

    I've just always wanted to try a custom tuned shock, enjoyed talking with Craig after G-Air told me how much he loved his Avy'd DHX, and with the hardware issues I was having with the DB Air, it was a no brainer for me at that point. Not to mention the cost was MORE than justifiable.

    I think the reducer hardware issues are sorted now from what I hear/read, so really it's just back to deciding what kind of suspension you want and how much fiddling you are willing to do.
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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I think the reducer hardware issues are sorted now from what I hear/read
    Easily solved by ordering another set of RP23 hardware, then grinding off the offending edge.

  28. #428
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    TSC- No hard feelings whatsoever. I'm stoked on the passion you have behind AVY. They must be top notch, they look great (even though I know nothing about suspension). Thanks for looking out. Who knows? Maybe I'll be on an AVY sooner than later! First things first...get anything (besides an RP23) on the chili and start riding...for as cheap as possible

    rscecil - I would love a pushed monarch plus, however, it is slightly out of the budget. I have heard nothing but wonderful things about both the DBair and coil. I am trying to go air this time around (idk why really, to save weight?). Honestly, all of the adjustments on the DBair scare me a little, and I have so little knowledge about properly tuning rear shocks it seems a little out of my league.

    First shock is vivid air, next shock, i'm goin AVY!

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    And for the record, I'll just say I think both the CCDB coil and DB air are very good shocks. ... And the DB Air was great. My switch to the Avy was not b/c I thought they were bad or anything of the sort. Just want that to be clear.
    100% in agreement! I wasn't trying to put Cane Creek down. From personal experiences and lots of research into the opinions of others I would say they are exceptional one-size-fits-all shocks.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  30. #430
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    One final question. Does anyone use these on there chili?

    RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS

    If so, are they worth the extra $?

    I have been able to find 21.8mm mounting hardware, but not 41.2mm. I did find 41.0mm hardware. Will this work?
    RockShox Monarch/Vivid/Ario 3.2

    BTW, RWC has both 21.85mm and 41.15mm, both I would assume are close enough to the chili shock specs on the website.

    Thanks everyone!

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    TSC- No hard feelings whatsoever. I'm stoked on the passion you have behind AVY. They must be top notch, they look great (even though I know nothing about suspension). Thanks for looking out. Who knows? Maybe I'll be on an AVY sooner than later! First things first...get anything (besides an RP23) on the chili and start riding...for as cheap as possible
    I'm glad you're not upset. I actually identify with you quite a bit. That's probably why I'm pushing what I believe is the best solution. Until a couple of years ago I couldn't tell you if I had a suspension under me when the bike was pointed down hill. It's taken a bit of work for me to pay attention to something other than the fun or the fear when biking. While I'm getting better I still have a long, long way to go.

    My problem is that when I've thought that I had a shock "dialed in" I've found that my setup only worked well for a certain set of parameters (trail conditions and speed) so I'm back to fiddling. I think (i.e. someone please correct me if I'm wrong) this is because most one-size-fits-all shocks behave differently depending on the speed.

    I see the Avy products as a solution to two problems--one-size-fits-all shock limitations and my ineptitude (biggest problem). Avy's are custom shimmed and tuned for the riders weight, what he/she likes to ride, and what ride characteristics the rider wants from the shock. So the shocks shortcomings are removed from the equation and my tuning ineptitude is replaced by Craig's brilliance. (Craig's base tune is specific to the rider and his/her riding style and is going to be better than I would get in a year of fiddling.) The weakest link is my ability to explain to Craig what I want.

    Anyway, mountain biking is about having fun. And, I can't definitely say that my optimum solution will be the best for you. (There is a reason that the saying, "your mileage may vary" is so well known in mountain biking that people just put "YMMV".) Enjoy yourself and keep us informed of your travels, experiences and lessons learned. IMO, that's what this forum is about.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    One final question. Does anyone use these on there chili?

    RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS

    If so, are they worth the extra $?

    I have been able to find 21.8mm mounting hardware, but not 41.2mm. I did find 41.0mm hardware. Will this work?
    RockShox Monarch/Vivid/Ario 3.2

    BTW, RWC has both 21.85mm and 41.15mm, both I would assume are close enough to the chili shock specs on the website.

    Thanks everyone!
    If I remember right, Dusty recommended them for Fox shocks. I think he said that they weren't beneficial for Cane Creek shocks, which I translate to mean that they are beneficial for some shocks but not others. So you might want to list your shock of choice with your question.

    You may want to look up the thread. I'm pretty sure he (full username is "Dusty Bottoms") started the thread.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I'm glad you're not upset. I actually identify with you quite a bit. That's probably why I'm pushing what I believe is the best solution. Until a couple of years ago I couldn't tell you if I had a suspension under me when the bike was pointed down hill. It's taken a bit of work for me to pay attention to something other than the fun or the fear when biking. While I'm getting better I still have a long, long way to go.

    My problem is that when I've thought that I had a shock "dialed in" I've found that my setup only worked well for a certain set of parameters (trail conditions and speed) so I'm back to fiddling. I think (i.e. someone please correct me if I'm wrong) this is because most one-size-fits-all shocks behave differently depending on the speed.

    I see the Avy products as a solution to two problems--one-size-fits-all shock limitations and my ineptitude (biggest problem). Avy's are custom shimmed and tuned for the riders weight, what he/she likes to ride, and what ride characteristics the rider wants from the shock. So the shocks shortcomings are removed from the equation and my tuning ineptitude is replaced by Craig's brilliance. (Craig's base tune is specific to the rider and his/her riding style and is going to be better than I would get in a year of fiddling.) The weakest link is my ability to explain to Craig what I want.

    Anyway, mountain biking is about having fun. And, I can't definitely say that my optimum solution will be the best for you. (There is a reason that the saying, "your mileage may vary" is so well known in mountain biking that people just put "YMMV".) Enjoy yourself and keep us informed of your travels, experiences and lessons learned. IMO, that's what this forum is about.
    Most definitely. I plan on starting small and working my way up. To tell you the truth, I would be in the same boat talking to Craig. I don't know what I want, all I know is I want it to feel good (duhh!). Once I am dialed in on the Chili, a little bit richer (I just dropped $2400 in 2 days), and know where my shock is lacking, I will be on the horn with AVY.

    I do not work in the bike industry, I don't know anything more than being able to put/take off certain parts on my bike, how to ride it, and how to be convinced by the bike industry to keep spending money on bike parts when I have a perfectly fine working bike . I agree with you 100000%. This forum absolutely rocks for learning about everything that I haven't had the opportunity to learn in the bike industry. I appreciate all the insight and suggestions from everyone on here.

    Enough blabbering from me. Fedex says frame arrives tomorrow

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    ...and how to be convinced by the bike industry to keep spending money on bike parts when I have a perfectly fine working bike .
    LOL! I totally agree. The guys on this forum, including me, don't help much either.

    I wanted a 2X8 or a 2X7 for my Chili because the non-downhill (I wouldn't call it XC) riding I do involves lots of drastic changes in slope that require large changes in gear ratios, but I got a 2X10 because the 2X8/7 setups aren't commercially available with the modern cranks. (You can build a set but it costs a lot more.) Now, people on this forum are convincing me to go 1X10. (I really like the idea but I need more legs and lungs to make this step.)
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    If I remember right, Dusty recommended them for Fox shocks. I think he said that they weren't beneficial for Cane Creek shocks, which I translate to mean that they are beneficial for some shocks but not others. So you might want to list your shock of choice with your question.
    Not that they aren't beneficial, it's that they flat out won't work. Fox, RS, etc, use a 15mm eyelet inner diameter. Cane Creek's new DB's us a proprietary 14.7mm, they older DB's use something different, but again not 15mm.

    RWC need a 15mm standard eyelet ID to work.
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  36. #436
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    Rwc shock eye needle bearing kit

    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    If I remember right, Dusty recommended them for Fox shocks. I think he said that they weren't beneficial for Cane Creek shocks, which I translate to mean that they are beneficial for some shocks but not others. So you might want to list your shock of choice with your question.


    RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KIT is incompatible with CCDB shocks
    .


    Here is the official info I received from Chris at RWC:


    No problem with the frame, but the CCDB eyelet is different from the Fox standard and our needle bearing does not fit.

    Best regards,

    Chris Streeter
    Real World Cycling, LLC
    chris@realworldcycling.com
    http://www.enduroforkseals.com
    Phone: (877) 363-8761
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  37. #437
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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00629.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00630.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00633.jpg  


  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    One final question. Does anyone use these on there chili?

    RWC SHOCK EYE NEEDLE BEARING KITS

    If so, are they worth the extra $?

    I have been able to find 21.8mm mounting hardware, but not 41.2mm. I did find 41.0mm hardware. Will this work?
    RockShox Monarch/Vivid/Ario 3.2

    BTW, RWC has both 21.85mm and 41.15mm, both I would assume are close enough to the chili shock specs on the website.

    Thanks everyone!
    I'm running the RWC needle bearing on my Delirium and they work great. I ordered a set for my Chilcotin expecting to put them on when I received the frame. But, I ended up getting a CCDB Air shock on my frame. So, I have a set of brand new unopened RWC needle bearings (blue) for the Chilcotin (NBKRWC4115 and NBKRWC2220). I paid $64 plus shipping for both. Willing to sell for $40 shipped. If anyone is interested, PM me.
    Last edited by yangpei; 09-01-2012 at 06:13 PM.
    Kokopelli Racing

    "Curb drops to flat, or curb drops to transition? There's a BIG difference there." Qfactor03

  39. #439
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    Yangpei - Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the chili need the 21.85mm lower kit?

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Yangpei - Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the chili need the 21.85mm lower kit?

    I checked with the guys at RWC before I ordered mine. The shock chart on their website should be correct. Here is some quotes from Chris at RWC (from the original RWC link Dusty posted):

    If you got the NBKRWC2185 we found out from Dusty that it actually takes the NBKRWC2220. Email me and we will switch out the parts for you. You are correct that the bottom mount is not as important as the top. However, since you already have the kit, let's get you the right parts. chris@realworldcycling.com

    Just to clarify, the wider inner ring makes it a different kit. So, technically, we did not mod the NBKRWC2185. Rather, we had the wrong kit listed for the bottom mount. This is because 21.85 and 22.20 are both Fox standards--very close, but it does makes a difference. We have changed our Shock Chart to show the Chilcotin as taking NBKRWC4115 and NBKRWC2220. Also remember that the frame mount end is mostly a cosmetic change, as there is little rotation at that end of the shock. Therefore, the NBKRWC4115 is the important one to get.

    Hope that helps.
    Kokopelli Racing

    "Curb drops to flat, or curb drops to transition? There's a BIG difference there." Qfactor03

  41. #441
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    mrniceguy, please do me a favour. when you remove that shock-place-holder ... does the rear end move like real easy? In other words would it "drop" by it's own weight if you hold it vertically (like in a repair stand)?

    Just unpacked my frame (also came w/o shock) and in comparison to other frames I've had the rear feels kind of "tight". I can move it to any position in it's travel and it will stay there. Guess that's due to the close tolerances and just a question of beding-in ... still would feel better if I knew that's normal.

    Cheers

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zuzi View Post
    mrniceguy, please do me a favour. when you remove that shock-place-holder ... does the rear end move like real easy? In other words would it "drop" by it's own weight if you hold it vertically (like in a repair stand)?

    Just unpacked my frame (also came w/o shock) and in comparison to other frames I've had the rear feels kind of "tight". I can move it to any position in it's travel and it will stay there. Guess that's due to the close tolerances and just a question of beding-in ... still would feel better if I knew that's normal.

    Cheers
    when i removed my shock before i built up the frame, the rear moved on its own just from its weight

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zuzi View Post
    mrniceguy, please do me a favour. when you remove that shock-place-holder ... does the rear end move like real easy? In other words would it "drop" by it's own weight if you hold it vertically (like in a repair stand)?

    Just unpacked my frame (also came w/o shock) and in comparison to other frames I've had the rear feels kind of "tight". I can move it to any position in it's travel and it will stay there. Guess that's due to the close tolerances and just a question of beding-in ... still would feel better if I knew that's normal.

    Cheers
    Completely normal. After a few rides, the horseshoe bushings will break in and be super smooth.
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  44. #444
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    Here is what the RWC Needle Bearing kits look like (several people have asked what's in the kit and I didn't know how to describe).
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-rwc-needle-bearings.jpg  

    Kokopelli Racing

    "Curb drops to flat, or curb drops to transition? There's a BIG difference there." Qfactor03

  45. #445
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    I have some available too! No need for them anymore with DBAir on.

    I have red and blue. I think Blue upper and Red lower.

  46. #446
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    I wonder how the new Fox 5-piece polymer hardware compares to the RWC stuff.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  47. #447
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    Chilcotin Fork Change

    Changed to BOS Idylle SC. It's so good, like the Deville but turned up to 11. The bike gained about 2lbs though.

    Because the Idylle SC has a 1 1/8 inch steerer I am able to run it with a ZS headset, making the a to c the same or slightly less than you would get using a 170mm tapered fork with an external cup. Head angle is now at 65.5 deg in the steep setting. Switched to the heavier purple spring with 3 spacers which gives me 22 per cent sag. Damping set 2 clicks more than factory settings.

    It will be interesting to see if the new air version is as good. If I can shed some weight off the bike I might get a Woodie.

  48. #448
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    So Friday I finally received the last pieces of the puzzle.


    http://http://img339.imageshack.us/i...3/imagegar.jpg


    http://http://img193.imageshack.us/i.../imageecqs.jpg

    2 short rides on a consistent loop has the sag settings close & minor adjustments - once I have some miles on the suspension I'll start to dial in the comp&rebound

    I'm going to give the 2x10 drivetrain a chance but am initialing missing the full power shifting of my hammerschmitd

  49. #449
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    fixed the pics for ya:

    Quote Originally Posted by bionicman View Post
    So Friday I finally received the last pieces of the puzzle.




    2 short rides on a consistent loop has the sag settings close & minor adjustments - once I have some miles on the suspension I'll start to dial in the comp&rebound

    I'm going to give the 2x10 drivetrain a chance but am initialing missing the full power shifting of my hammerschmitd
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by bionicman View Post
    So Friday I finally received the last pieces of the puzzle.

    2 short rides on a consistent loop has the sag settings close & minor adjustments - once I have some miles on the suspension I'll start to dial in the comp&rebound

    I'm going to give the 2x10 drivetrain a chance but am initialing missing the full power shifting of my hammerschmitd
    I had a Hammerschmidt on my previous AM bike, and then I moved it to the DH bike. Now I have a single ring on both and do not miss the Hammer.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  51. #451
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    haha thats a cool bike ! You should attach a neon light strip on it lol

  52. #452
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    New Carbon Wheels from Citec

    If your thinking of getting some carbon wheels it might be worth checking these out, only 1350g pair

    MTB Ascender S CARBON | CITEC® - Systemlaufräder und Scheibenräder | * * * * * * * * * * * ** * * * * *

  53. #453
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    Rear shock shipped today. Either gonna be here by friday but most likely early next week. It's the last piece of the build! No more pics from me but a cool video to keep the stoke goin!


    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3-vxC9Fi1MQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Rear shock shipped today. Either gonna be here by friday but most likely early next week. It's the last piece of the build! No more pics from me but a cool video to keep the stoke goin!
    nice riding

    thanks for the picture fix calhoun

    edit: picture from yesterday learning the bike

    URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/imagebqte.jpg/][/URL]
    Last edited by bionicman; 09-11-2012 at 08:04 PM.

  55. #455
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    It's done.

    I was riding around on it tonight. It felt great, however, I brought it back into my garage and was doing a once-over on everything and the rear pivot felt loose. I tried tightening it and it is still loose. I drew an arrow pointing to the pivot with play (third pic), is this the pivot issue on a few of the Chilis? Anyways, here she is...

    Large Black Ano Chili
    -Vivid Air
    -Lyrik RC2DH
    -Hope Pro 2 Evo w/ Mavic 521 (f) and 721 (r)
    -SLX Brakes
    -SLX Crankset (32t)
    -MRP G2 Chainguide
    -Sram x7 10sp (11-36t)
    -Deity bars/stem
    -KS Dropper post (I used a shim and it was a tight fit, I forced it in and broke it and now it needs a rebuild)

    How should I approach the pivot issue? I don't want to fix it myself, fearing I might royally F something up, I am thinking of taking it to a local Knolly dealer...

    Cheers guys! Thanks for all the knowledge and advice! So stoked!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00642.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00643.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00644.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00645.jpg  


  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    It's done.

    I was riding around on it tonight. It felt great, however, I brought it back into my garage and was doing a once-over on everything and the rear pivot felt loose. I tried tightening it and it is still loose. I drew an arrow pointing to the pivot with play (third pic), is this the pivot issue on a few of the Chilis? Anyways, here she is...

    Large Black Ano Chili
    -Vivid Air
    -Lyrik RC2DH
    -Hope Pro 2 Evo w/ Mavic 521 (f) and 721 (r)
    -SLX Brakes
    -SLX Crankset (32t)
    -MRP G2 Chainguide
    -Sram x7 10sp (11-36t)
    -Deity bars/stem
    -KS Dropper post (I used a shim and it was a tight fit, I forced it in and broke it and now it needs a rebuild)

    How should I approach the pivot issue? I don't want to fix it myself, fearing I might royally F something up, I am thinking of taking it to a local Knolly dealer...

    Cheers guys! Thanks for all the knowledge and advice! So stoked!
    it's a pretty easy fix. a file and some time are all you need. retarded you have to do it, but still easy. remove the pivot and file it down

    Really??

  57. #457
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    I am just nervous since I don't have calipers. I read your post qbert. I dont fully understand it though. So you back one of horseshoe axle pivots out half way, bang it with a mallet, then detach the seatstay pivots. Then remove the horseshoe pivot axle? Sorry, my reading comprehension skills are on par with a 5th grader.

  58. #458
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    gaps between link and bolt heads.

    Anyone of you guys notice a gap between the link and the outer bolt head/shoulder? Is this normal or is this something to be worried about?

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    I am just nervous since I don't have calipers. I read your post qbert. I dont fully understand it though. So you back one of horseshoe axle pivots out half way, bang it with a mallet, then detach the seatstay pivots. Then remove the horseshoe pivot axle? Sorry, my reading comprehension skills are on par with a 5th grader.
    yes, but i get that it sounds confusing without pics. one of the reasons i thought it'd be nice if knolly actually chimed in on this officially is because then they could put some pics up with instructions for people. if you aren't comfortable doing it, get your dealer to take care of it for you.

  60. #460
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    Great looking bikes.
    I see most of them are size medium. Are most of you so "small" or is it possible to ride the Chilcotin in size medium with around 6' and 34" inseam?

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadl View Post
    Great looking bikes.
    I see most of them are size medium. Are most of you so "small" or is it possible to ride the Chilcotin in size medium with around 6' and 34" inseam?
    The Knolly medium is kinda big when you look at the geo numbers for a Nomad or HD.

    I have the same height and inseam you posted and feel like the medium with a 70mm stem is a perfect fit. I also like that the seatpost is shorter on a medium, there are some steeps around here where it is nice to get that saddle out of the way.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  62. #462
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    Im 5'10'' and i ride mediums on all my bikes , dunno if im considered so " small " lol .

  63. #463
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    I am exactly your size Fadl. I went with the L with a 50mm stem. I have not had the chance to put it through testing yet but it seems to fit well. I chose L based solely off the Knolly recommendation.

  64. #464
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    I'm 6' with a 32" inseam, and went large with a 60mm stem. I could probably go to a 50mm, but I'm used to what I have now. I wouldn't want a medium, although I know it would fit much better than my med. Heckler (bought on a very tight budget when I was getting back into riding)!

  65. #465
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    I'm 5'11 with a 33+" inseam, and kinda long arms. I ride a large with a 50mm stem (and 780mm bars) and it seems to fits perfectly. I've ridden cheezwhip's medium with a 50 mm stem and it felt too small for me.

    Also keep in mind how much exposed post you would have at full pedaling height with either size. You probably don't want to be pedaling around with 9 or 10 inches of exposed post.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadl View Post
    Great looking bikes.
    I see most of them are size medium. Are most of you so "small" or is it possible to ride the Chilcotin in size medium with around 6' and 34" inseam?
    I'm 6 feet with a large...50mm stem and 760 bars. Unbelievable set up...Bike rips!

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    I am just nervous since I don't have calipers. I read your post qbert. I dont fully understand it though. So you back one of horseshoe axle pivots out half way, bang it with a mallet, then detach the seatstay pivots. Then remove the horseshoe pivot axle? Sorry, my reading comprehension skills are on par with a 5th grader.
    Well, the good news is that a 5th grader can take care of the minor problem...Remove the larger bolts that attach to the seat tube first as to not put any torque on them as you use a mallet to remove the horseshoe bolt. To remove the horseshoe pivot bolt, unscrew the removable bolt a few turns and hit it with a mallet to get the axle moving. Pull the axle out and file it down .3mm. Someone said that is equivalent to about 20 swipes with a bastard file.

  68. #468
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    Qbert!!! Thank you!!!! That totally worked!!!

    My axle was 72.85mm long and I followed qberts intstructions. I ended up at 72.70 on the dot. I got it back together and there is no play. It was not hard at all (trust me, I am not qualified to work on bikes )

    I AM SO STOKED RIGHT NOW!!!!!!

    P.S. Knolly crew, like qbert said, there should be a little write up with pics. It wasn't hard, but it would definitely help to have some visual guide to make sure you aren't F'ing it up too bad.

  69. #469
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    Looks good. Impressive weight!
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    How are you liking the xfusion suspension?

  71. #471
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    you guys must be shaped funny LOL
    I'm on a large 5'11'' with a 70mm stem
    tried a 50mm - it made the bike a bit too nervous on the gravity side & brought the bars a bit too close to the knees during switchback manuvers
    I may try a 65mm stem but thats splitting hairs as with the 70mm I need to make a bit of handlebar downforce at times to really carve the front tire..

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    Greasy build

  73. #473
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    maybe try a wider bar? 750 mm works great for me on these kind of bikes ...

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    Great!

    How tall are you? Do you know your inseam too?

  75. #475
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    Anyone of you guys notice a gap between the link and the outer bolt head/shoulder? Is this normal or is this something to be worried about?
    yes, I have gaps on all those shoulder bolts. The one at the horse shoe link is slightly bigger than the others though. I'll take it apart and measure if it's too long ...

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by bionicman View Post
    you guys must be shaped funny LOL
    I'm on a large 5'11'' with a 70mm stem
    tried a 50mm - it made the bike a bit too nervous on the gravity side & brought the bars a bit too close to the knees during switchback manuvers
    I may try a 65mm stem but thats splitting hairs as with the 70mm I need to make a bit of handlebar downforce at times to really carve the front tire..
    I'm 5'11" also and I am running a 70mm stem and 750mm bars and it feels great. My old bike had 50mm stem and narrower bars and they were to close and didn't feel good on climbs.

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    What's with that X-Fusion stuff? You know it's not on the Knolly approved product list. You have to start a thread asking what fork/shock you should buy for your chilcotin and then buy accordingly. Duh.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmtim View Post
    What's with that X-Fusion stuff? You know it's not on the Knolly approved product list. You have to start a thread asking what fork/shock you should buy for your chilcotin and then buy accordingly. Duh.
    Hurry up and order your Blue one...

  79. #479
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    not many pics in this thread

    Not sure if it is the operator or the camera but I cannot take pics to save my life.



    This is one beefy frame and the raw is awesome.

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by noosa2 View Post
    Not sure if it is the operator or the camera but I cannot take pics to save my life.



    This is one beefy frame and the raw is awesome.
    SWEET! Anothe Chili on SOMO. Knolly Domination!
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  81. #481
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    I thought Noosa already had one? Or I am thinking of Dirtbag's maybe? I think it was white? I think you helped build it up Tisser, who's ever it was.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I thought Noosa already had one? Or I am thinking of Dirtbag's maybe? I think it was white? I think you helped build it up Tisser, who's ever it was.
    Yeah Dirtbag has a Chilcotin, I've been on an Endo for the last 18months or so...

    Unfortunately I may have to sell my Chili as things are not looking so good $ wise.

  83. #483
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    Before her weight gain...

    I'm going to be adding some weight (adjustable seat post, bigger tires, coil fork) to my Chili so I decided to take a picture when she was at her lightest.

    + Med Chilcotin with CCDBair
    + X0 Chain Guide ISCG-05 version
    + Race Face crank boots
    + Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset (22-36) 170mm Arm length GPX BB
    + Loaded AmX Pedals
    + Hope Mtn ceramic BB, 68/73mm
    + SRAM PG-1050 10sp Cassette 11-36 (11,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36)
    + PC1071 Chain
    + S3 (DM), Top Pull, 22/36t (2x10); Mfg #: 00.7615.177.040; UPC #: 710845674136
    + Sram X.9 Rear Derailleur - 10 Speed
    + SRAM X.9 2 x 10 Trigger Shifter Front
    + SRAM X.0 2 x 10 Grip Shift (Rear)
    + Stans ZTR Flow 26" disc rim
    + Sapim C-X Ray 14g bladed spoke
    + DT Swiss 2.0 x 12mm Alloy Nipples
    + Hadley DH Front disc hub, 20x110mm
    + Hadley Rear 8/9/10-spd Hub 12x142
    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Front Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Rear Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT RT86 IceTech 180mm 6-bolt Rotor
    + Schwalbe Hans Dampf 26x2.35 Snake Skin Tubeless Ready Folding Tire Trailstar
    + Lyrik RC2 DH Solo Air 170mm
    + Cane Creek 40 ZS49 headset
    + WCS C-260 Matrix stem, (31.8) 6/84dx90 UD
    + RaceFace SIXC 31.8, 725mm
    + Oury Lock-On grips
    + Straitline Components Bar Ends
    + Thomson 31.6 x 410mm Black Seatpost
    + Chromag Seat QR 35mm
    + Fizik Aliante Gamma XM White K:ium Rail

    Weight: 31.0 LBS as pictured
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-chili-posing.jpg  

    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    + SRAM X.9 2 x 10 Trigger Shifter (Front)
    + SRAM X.0 2 x 10 Grip Shift (Rear)

    + Straitline Components Bar Ends
    About the shifter setup: I like the SRAM Grip Shifts (GS); however, they come with a long grip that makes it so you have to move your hands to shift and you can't be on the end of your bars and use one-finger brake levers. I cut down some OURY grips and mated them to the GSs, with part of my hand on the shift mechanism. The front derailleur kept shifting to the small ring because the spring on the derailleur is too tight. I call SRAM and they were sure it was the GS. I sent the GS in and they sent it back saying it was fine. (Love SRAM tech support... NOT!)

    The current bastardized setup is working fine so I'm not worried about it for now, but would love to know how to loosen the spring tension on the SRAM front derailleur.

    About the bar ends: They are heavy and they attach to the bars by putting a dent in your bars (sort of defeats the purposes of putting them on to protect your bar ends). POS, IMO.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  85. #485
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    Why a coil fork? The Lyrik RC2DH & Float RC2 are excellent forks. What don't you like about the Lyrik? Love the bike!

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Why a coil fork? The Lyrik RC2DH & Float RC2 are excellent forks. What don't you like about the Lyrik?
    Coil is linear, rate stays the same throughout its travel. Air compresses... Non linear and doesn't use all its travel unless you unrest to blow through low speed, just easier to adjust. Obviously he's fine with the little extra weight and the little extra work, its a good choice.

  87. #487
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    what Tires?

    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I'm going to be adding some weight (adjustable seat post, bigger tires, coil fork) to my Chili so I decided to take a picture when she was at her lightest.

    Weight: 31.0 LBS as pictured
    TSC, What tires are planning on switching to? My Chili has been gaining weight as well; coil rear shock, Avy cart in front fork, different dropper post, looking for some new tires.

    TG

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Why a coil fork? The Lyrik RC2DH & Float RC2 are excellent forks. What don't you like about the Lyrik? Love the bike!
    Why? Because I have another fork that I want to try on my Chili. Overall I like my Lyrik. I've found the tunability to be really useful because the terrain and speed at which I'm riding varies greatly from ride to ride. The only thing I would say negative about it is that I can't get the small-bump compliance to where I want. It's not bad but it's not great. If I were a better tuner I could probably get it perfect.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Losungen View Post
    Coil is linear, rate stays the same throughout its travel. Air compresses... Non linear and doesn't use all its travel unless you unrest to blow through low speed, just easier to adjust. Obviously he's fine with the little extra weight and the little extra work, its a good choice.
    I used to run coil only up front. The 2 forks I mentioned are pretty linear and the last 20% of travel is reserved for those OH S*+t moments. That's the mistake many fail to realise! I'm a believer in a PROPER SETUP air fork. Far better than older gen air forks! Air shocks, not so much! Although I have not tried a DB air yet.

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    looking for some new tires.

    TG
    Hans dampf

  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    I used to run coil only up front. The 2 forks I mentioned are pretty linear and the last 20% of travel is reserved for those OH S*+t moments. That's the mistake many fail to realise! I'm a believer in a PROPER SETUP air fork. Far better than older gen air forks! Air shocks, not so much! Although I have not tried a DB air yet.
    Don't get me wrong, me likes my air. Just offering up why one would use a coil. I don't agree with the %20 percent though, for my riding style. An oh **** is an oh **** to me. I like to use all my travel all the time. Air makes that real easy, as does drcv, without having fudge low speed to get it.

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    TSC, What tires are planning on switching to? My Chili has been gaining weight as well; coil rear shock, Avy cart in front fork, different dropper post, looking for some new tires.

    TG
    Front: Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    Rear: Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky

    If you read back through the builds on this thread you will find a couple of other riders running these tires and at least one in this configuration. I PMed them months ago and got their reasoning and wanted to try it. (I love to experiment.) Also, I've noted that some of the hard-core XC Chili riders are running larger tires.

    Now with the 650b buzz I'm even more curious about running the Chili with bigger tires. And, according to the recommendations it's about time to change my Stan's Tire Sealant, so there is no better time to change my tires than now.

    My Hans Dampf will still be available if I want to go back.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Front: Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    Rear: Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky

    If you read back through the builds on this thread you will find a couple of other riders running these tires and at least one in this configuration. I PMed them months ago and got their reasoning and wanted to try it. (I love to experiment.) Also, I've noted that some of the hard-core XC Chili riders are running larger tires.

    Now with the 650b buzz I'm even more curious about running the Chili with bigger tires. And, according to the recommendations it's about time to change my Stan's Tire Sealant, so there is no better time to change my tires than now.

    My Hans Dampf will still be available if I want to go back.
    TSC i would try the Muddy Mary up front . I used to use the MM up front and the Big Betty in the rear on my DH bike and was AMAZING literally fror all weather . From dry to wet to muddy to roots and rocks . Either way , i think you will enjoy the tire setup but i really loved the MM that i would run it front and rear . It was very predictable too

  94. #494
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    I'm also pretty happy with my Muddy Mary's.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Front: Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    Rear: Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky
    I started with a Minion on the rear and recently swapped it for a Schwalbe Fat Albert. I am huge fan of the Minion and love how predictable it is, but the Fat Albert is just a better tire ('round here.) Way better traction and faster rolling.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

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  96. #496
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    Thanks for the tire advice. (G-AIR probably appreciates it too.) I already have both tires in-hand so I will probably give them a whirl before trying something different.

    Back when I was doing my research I read some reviews (example: Schwalbe Big Betty and Muddy Mary MTB Tire Review) that made me believe the Big Betty would be a better tire for where I plan on riding it (Southern Utah).

    I have the DHF (front and back) on my DH bike and have liked the traction they have provided, but I will definitely give the Fat Alberts a try in the future.

    Side note: I've only ridden Hans Dampf on my Chili so I'm not sure of the reason (air pressure, fork settings, lack of skill, etc.) but my front end has slid out from under me numerous times. Even worse is that I'm not able to tell when it is about to go, so it makes high-speed, flat/off-camber cornering a bit tense (especially with my wrist still healing from a mid-season break). I'm not blaming the tires, but will interesting to see if I get different results with the Big Betty.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  97. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by aedubber View Post
    TSC i would try the Muddy Mary up front . I used to use the MM up front and the Big Betty in the rear on my DH bike and was AMAZING literally fror all weather . From dry to wet to muddy to roots and rocks . Either way , i think you will enjoy the tire setup but i really loved the MM that i would run it front and rear . It was very predictable too
    I'd run MM front and rear, and do - but for DH/FR days only.

    For AM riding, I've loved BB front for 4 years - trying something different now with a Specy Butcher 2.3. I dig it, but would go back to the BB without hesitation.

    Calhoun, I've not ridden the minions (yet), but do really like the Fat Albert rear. I've had this one on since february/march and the wear is in line with what I expect.

    Honestly, the side knobs are tearing on the inside, but tire holds the line and rails just as well as it always has. I had the new compound BB do the same up front, but I didn't trust it nearly as much with the tearing on the inside of the side knobs.

  98. #498
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    hmm...

    I am running a Hans Dampf in the front now and so far I have had the opposite experience. Gotta be terrain, though Southern Utah shares a lot of similarities with NM. I feel that I am able to push harder on the front wheel in turns and get traction out of it. I am heading to Moab this Thursday so I will let you know how this set up performs.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    I'd run MM front and rear, and do - but for DH/FR days only.

    For AM riding, I've loved BB front for 4 years - trying something different now with a Specy Butcher 2.3. I dig it, but would go back to the BB without hesitation.

    Calhoun, I've not ridden the minions (yet), but do really like the Fat Albert rear. I've had this one on since february/march and the wear is in line with what I expect.

    Honestly, the side knobs are tearing on the inside, but tire holds the line and rails just as well as it always has. I had the new compound BB do the same up front, but I didn't trust it nearly as much with the tearing on the inside of the side knobs.
    I've noticed that tearing on the HD, but I can't tell that it has given up anything.

    Butcher = Minion, no?
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  100. #500
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    My rear HD looks the same, knobs tearing like crazy on the inside, but still seems to be holding. I'm sure it's not helping I've really been working my cornering all summer, and have really thrown that back end into more corners than I can count.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

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