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  1. #1151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilcoloco View Post
    Thanks mate! By the way sir is CCDB Air CS is much better for Chilcotin? Or Inline is ok? My original plan was to get Air CS but my supplier sent me Inline..
    it depends on your weight, as a general rule of thumb if your over 150lbs its usually better to get a bigger shock. cs does work well with the chili:

    Introducing the Cane Creek DBair CS - Mtbr.com

    the inline is still a really good shock if your in the right weight bracket for smaller shocks

  2. #1152
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    Quote Originally Posted by cfrench View Post
    it depends on your weight, as a general rule of thumb if your over 150lbs its usually better to get a bigger shock. cs does work well with the chili:

    Introducing the Cane Creek DBair CS - Mtbr.com


    the inline is still a really good shock if your in the right weight bracket for smaller shocks
    I have an inline on my warden. Have the db air cs on chilco. As far as inline goes on warden and u can probably see similarities in Chili. Inline is linear. I blow thru travel. I talked to CC and they said it doesn't matter on body weight, as long as sag is set up right. So, a 150lb rider at 30% sag will blow thru same travel as 200lb rider at 30% sag. Being that the Inline does not ramp up or act progressive, spacers are probably a must. I threw one large volume spacer and still blew thru travel, although not as easily. I am going to try adding another half spacer and see if that remedies it more without effecting ride quality too much. If that doesn't work, throwing on the DB Air CS on.

    I rarely bottomed out on db air CS on chili. The Inline feels amazing for regular riding. It's just on hard hits and drops, it blows thru. As far as body weight goes, I am merely repeating what CC told me.

    I may just use Inline for fast flowy rides and use DB Air CS for chunky rides with drops.

    A buddy of mine is going to try my inline on his chili and once he does, I will have him report on it.

  3. #1153
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    the first 30% where sag is measured is a different ballgame than 30 to 80% through the travel. the bigger shocks with their piggybacks usually create a shock with more 'guts' (more supportive mid-stroke).
    a classic example of how they can fail was the rp23 and later ctd...every knolly owner I remember sold those shocks and went for more guts...that's because even with an extra 100psi above spec and as lttle as 15-20% sag, they'd stll blow through...there were exeptions, but they were really skinny ppl

  4. #1154
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    Just relaying what Cane Creek informed me. I'm not trying to debate. Why I called them.

  5. #1155
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    So its much better to use Air CS in mini dh something trail than Inline..tnx mates..

  6. #1156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilcoloco View Post
    So its much better to use Air CS in mini dh something trail than Inline..tnx mates..
    in short. unless you are built like a racing snake, if its not coil, its better to have a piggyback. and pedalling platforms will mean you have more energy when you get to the top, so long as you can be bothered to reach down and turn them on.

  7. #1157
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    does my frame really weigh this much?

    Hi everyone...
    I'm the proud owner of a V-Tach(51 lbs) and a Delirium T (41 lbs)

    with the CURRENT deals going on I decided to get a 2014 it new from wrenchscience.com and build it up as my light bike...

    shooting for 32-33lb ranch
    I bought a complete XT drivetrain and some XT brakes along with a Rockshox Pike 160mm solo air,and some other nice parts that I will post up after the build..

    well my frame arrived and I threw it up on my scale and for some reason it was like 3/4ths of a pound heavier than I expected??

    the frame with axle weighed 8 lbs 7 ounces???
    and everything I read it should have weighed 7.5 lbs??

    according to the knolly webites the frame with CCDBA-CS weighs 3401 grams = 7.49792 lbs?? CLICK ON SPECS IN LINK BELOW??
    Knolly Bikes | Chilcotin


    My frame is a medium day-glo green with the CCDBA-CS

    is this correct??

    for the record I weighed my Pike and it's supposed to weigh 4.05 ounces and on MY scale it weighed 4.1 lbs so I'm sure my scale it accurate??

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-20141114_172802_resized_1.jpgKnolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-20141114_172329_resized.jpg

  8. #1158
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    Quote Originally Posted by _rich_ View Post
    Hi everyone...
    I'm the proud owner of a V-Tach(51 lbs) and a Delirium T (41 lbs)

    with the CURRENT deals going on I decided to get a 2014 it new from wrenchscience.com and build it up as my light bike...

    shooting for 32-33lb ranch
    I bought a complete XT drivetrain and some XT brakes along with a Rockshox Pike 160mm solo air,and some other nice parts that I will post up after the build..

    well my frame arrived and I threw it up on my scale and for some reason it was like 3/4ths of a pound heavier than I expected??

    the frame with axle weighed 8 lbs 7 ounces???
    and everything I read it should have weighed 7.5 lbs??

    according to the knolly webites the frame with CCDBA-CS weighs 3401 grams = 7.49792 lbs?? CLICK ON SPECS IN LINK BELOW??
    Knolly Bikes | Chilcotin


    My frame is a medium day-glo green with the CCDBA-CS

    is this correct??

    for the record I weighed my Pike and it's supposed to weigh 4.05 ounces and on MY scale it weighed 4.1 lbs so I'm sure my scale it accurate??

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm sure the original bike was weighed with a CTD, and the CCDBA is about .75lbs heavier.
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  9. #1159
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    I read this post and is shows about 220grams heavier??


    Chilcotin + Cane Creek Double Barrel Air

    is it possible for paint to weigh that much??

    thanks...Rich

  10. #1160
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    I reposted this because my first post got buried in the middle of this thread for not many to see...sorry.

    Hi everyone...
    I'm the proud owner of a V-Tach(51 lbs) and a Delirium T (41 lbs)

    with the CURRENT deals going on I decided to get a 2014 it new from wrenchscience.com and build it up as my light bike...

    shooting for 32-33lb ranch
    I bought a complete XT drivetrain and some XT brakes along with a Rockshox Pike 160mm solo air,and some other nice parts that I will post up after the build..

    well my frame arrived and I threw it up on my scale and for some reason it was like 3/4ths of a pound heavier than I expected??

    the frame with axle weighed 8 lbs 7 ounces???
    and everything I read it should have weighed 7.5 lbs??

    according to the knolly webites the frame with CCDBA-CS weighs 3401 grams = 7.49792 lbs?? CLICK ON SPECS IN LINK BELOW??
    Knolly Bikes | Chilcotin


    My frame is a medium day-glo green with the CCDBA-CS

    is this correct??

    for the record I weighed my Pike and it's supposed to weigh 4.05 ounces and on MY scale it weighed 4.1 lbs so I'm sure my scale it accurate??

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by _rich_; 11-16-2014 at 06:04 AM. Reason: posted same thing twice

  11. #1161
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    tiSS'er replied this to me..

    I'm sure the original bike was weighed with a CTD, and the CCDBA is about .75lbs heavier.


    then I linked this thread ... that shows the CCDBA-CS weigh roughly 220 grams heavier putting my frame around 7 3/4 lbs??? where is my extra 3/4 lb coming from??anyone know how much the paint weighs??

  12. #1162
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    Like TiSSer mentioned, The 7.5 pound frame weight was probably raw frame with CTD, maybe no axle. I imagine between the ccdba and paint you are looking at .75 pounds. 220 grams is almost half pound. Add paint to that and you are up to 3/4 of a pound.

    Considering your light bike is 41 pounds I wouldn't worry about this small amount. I'm sure you will love it regardless.

    Quote Originally Posted by _rich_ View Post
    tiSS'er replied this to me..

    I'm sure the original bike was weighed with a CTD, and the CCDBA is about .75lbs heavier.


    then I linked this thread ... that shows the CCDBA-CS weigh roughly 220 grams heavier putting my frame around 7 3/4 lbs??? where is my extra 3/4 lb coming from??anyone know how much the paint weighs??

  13. #1163
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    If you are going Med with CCDBA you should have little trouble getting yourself to 32-33, or maybe lower.

    I'm on a L white with dba cs, 2010 talas, Thompson dropper, ...dare I say it: 3 x 9 mix of xt/xtr, King all round and dhf front and rear and I am right on 34 lbs.

  14. #1164
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    My 2012 Med Black Chili with CCDBA weighed in at 8.0003 lbs on a digital counting scale. So your weight seems pretty accurate to me.

  15. #1165
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    I'm on a small raw with DBair (non cs), avy lyrik solo air, reverb, 1 x 10, charger pro sl wheels, dhf 2.5 front tubeless, trail king 2.2 tubeless and got it to 29.8lbs. The only carbon is the handlebars. I'm stoked about the weight and was surprised I got it that light.

  16. #1166
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    Quote Originally Posted by _rich_ View Post
    shooting for 32-33lb ranch
    My medium white Chili weighs just under 32 lbs. That weight includes a KS Lev, big tires and a shock just a bit heavier than the CC DBair. It probably could be under 30 lbs by changing the 3 things I noted for lighter alternatives (e.g. from Lev to non-dropper Thompson post).

    Side note: It lost ~1 lb (from 33 to 32) when I converted it from a 2X10 to a 1X10.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  17. #1167
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    33 lb build should be no problem. Mine was 32.7 lbs with a KS LEV dropper, which has failed so it's now probably 32 until it gets back from KS. If I went 1x10 it would be 32 with dropper, 31 without. I don't have any carbon hoops or anything. I've got the CC DBair and a 2015 Fox 36 on it.

  18. #1168
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    Quote Originally Posted by alex345 View Post
    33 lb build should be no problem. Mine was 32.7 lbs with a KS LEV dropper, which has failed so it's now probably 32 until it gets back from KS. If I went 1x10 it would be 32 with dropper, 31 without. I don't have any carbon hoops or anything. I've got the CC DBair and a 2015 Fox 36 on it.
    thanks everyone

    here is my build...
    still waiting on a few parts to be delivered,..
    I know the wheelset rims are DH, but they aren't really all that heavy IMO? front wheel 950 grams and rear wheel 1,070 grams so 2,020 total

    XT crank w/2 rings 24/34 (10 sp)
    XT chain
    XT cassette 36
    XT shifters
    XT brakes
    XT front & rear derailleur’s
    Thomson seat post
    WTB Pure V Race PRO saddle(titanium rails)
    Chromag seat clamp
    Chromag Ranger 50mm stem
    Deity CZ38 special bars
    ODI TLD grips
    2.35 Kenda Nevegals( folding)
    Maxxis welterweight tubes
    Hope Pro2 Evo hubs
    Sapim double butted spokes w/brass nipples
    Mavic EX 721 rims
    Avid G2 180mm rotors
    Blackspire twinty bash guard & chain guide
    Straitline AMP pedals
    Rockshox Pike 160MM solo air fork
    CCDBA-CS shock
    HOPE inset top & traditional bottom cup headset

  19. #1169
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    thanks everyone you all were right

    I was worried for ABSOULTELY nothing

    I decided to go single ring up front and
    ended up with a 31 lbs 2 ounce bike

    I couldn't be happier...

    thanks everyone and to Kevin @ Knolly for his suggestions on my build..

    here is the final result...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-20141122_102446.jpg  

    Last edited by _rich_; 11-22-2014 at 06:29 PM.

  20. #1170
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    A little off topic, but has anyone found a bottle cage that will work with a size L frame and a CCDBA? I'm thinking maybe a side load cage might work if it was set fairly high up on the downtube, far enough to give the rear shock clearance. I have tried a few and some are close, but the bottle still touches the piggy back or it's too far up in the frame to get it out easily. I haven't tried any side loading cages.
    "Lightweight , durable , inexpensive
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  21. #1171
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    Try the specialized side lodging cage. I think it's called the Zee Cage. It has some up and down adjustment. It worked very well for me on my Endo w/ ccdba CS.

    Quote Originally Posted by BikeLust View Post
    A little off topic, but has anyone found a bottle cage that will work with a size L frame and a CCDBA? I'm thinking maybe a side load cage might work if it was set fairly high up on the downtube, far enough to give the rear shock clearance. I have tried a few and some are close, but the bottle still touches the piggy back or it's too far up in the frame to get it out easily. I haven't tried any side loading cages.

  22. #1172
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    Quote Originally Posted by _rich_ View Post
    thanks everyone you all were right

    I was worried for ABSOULTELY nothing

    I decided to go single ring up front and
    ended up with a 31 lbs 2 ounce bike

    I couldn't be happier...

    thanks everyone and to Kevin @ Knolly for his suggestions on my build..

    here is the final result...
    Red, your bike is ugly and fat looking.


  23. #1173
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    thanks Ryan

  24. #1174
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    Question for the 180mm fork users. What is your bb height? Slack and or Steep position.

  25. #1175
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    Quote Originally Posted by atekt View Post
    Question for the 180mm fork users. What is your bb height? Slack and or Steep position.
    13.4 inches 66 degree HA at steep position with a TALAS 180
    That is with magic mary front and muddy mary rear on a CB Iodine 3

  26. #1176
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    Quote Originally Posted by butchog View Post
    13.4 inches 66 degree HA at steep position with a TALAS 180
    That is with magic mary front and muddy mary rear on a CB Iodine 3
    What kind of bottom cup ? external cup or zero stack ?

  27. #1177
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    I have the Chris king inset 5. External bottom cup, internal upper cup

  28. #1178
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    Bluegonia. 29.6lbs with pedals and not a ounce of carbon.

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-knolly.jpg
    2013 Chilcotin (for sale)
    2012 Yelli Screamy

  29. #1179
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    Wow, 180mm and that light? Do you have full build specs?
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  30. #1180
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    2013 Chilli, Medium, 3D rocker links
    '15 Fox Float 160 (not 180, but it does look long in the photo)
    CTD w/ Avalanche SSD Tune
    e.thirteen TRS+R cranks (34t, spiderless ring)
    e.thirteen TiNi BB
    Havoc wheels (20 / 142x12)
    King headset, I5
    Full XTR groupo, 11-36, 10spd ti-cassette
    Staint stoppers, 180 rotors
    Havoc Bar, 750mm
    Havoc Stem, 50mm
    Conti Trail King 2.2, tubeless
    KS Lev 125
    WTB Silverado
    CrankBro Candy 1
    ODI Ruffian

    The weight savings is in the fork, shock, and wheels. Havoc wheels weigh 1750g. Pretty silly for a 'DH' branded wheel. The XTR ti cassette helps, and surprisingly the TRS cranks are only 600g, slightly lighter than XTRs. Trail Kings are relatively light too, 730g or so, and I run the cheap plastic Candy pedals, which are something like 300g. Pretty psyched to have a sub-30 Chili, it's a goddamn trail torpedo!
    2013 Chilcotin (for sale)
    2012 Yelli Screamy

  31. #1181
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    Have you guys with Pikes been pretty happy with the performance on your Chilcotins? I think I saw that someone had ridden theirs in Snowshoe park and was pleased.

    Slowing building up one w/ a Dbair on the back end, just got my new derby wheels, and just need to decide on the front suspension. I already have a pike on my 29er and it's easy to work on (which is good for me since I have to do all my own servicing). No personal experience w/ that new Fox 36.

  32. #1182
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    I have a Chilcotin with a Pike on it and I have been pleased. I rode it on a few long rides in Sedona a few weeks ago and it never skipped a beat. When I rode it at Snowshoe however, it didn't do bad, but a bigger fork would have handled it better.

    Moral of the story, if your using your Chilcotin to do long climbs with burly descents, the Pike will be fine. If you intend to do multiple park days, then I would opt for a bigger fork like a 36, Lyric, or maybe the XFusion fork.

    I plan on purchasing the new Evil Following this spring, so I will probably end up buying a bigger fork and just using the Chilcotin for park days...unless a Podium falls in my lap...
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  33. #1183
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProphet View Post
    Moral of the story, if your using your Chilcotin to do long climbs with burly descents, the Pike will be fine.
    That's perfect advice, and exactly what I want to set it up for. Thank you! I also just finished the Charger maintenance - super easy. Have fun on that Evil - that thing looks fun.

  34. #1184
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    If I can find a bigger fork, I will have a 160mm Pike for sale...just saying!
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  35. #1185
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    So I need to get a front derailleur. This one should work, correct?

    New Shimano XT FD M785 E2 w O BB Plate Dyna Sys Front Derailleur 2x10 | eBay

    Just want to make sure I'm ordering the right one!
    Last edited by c47v3770; 02-07-2015 at 01:50 PM.

  36. #1186
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    Two pictures of mine (last reborn) with lyrik RC2DH coil with black spring. 33 lb for this large Chilcotin.

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  37. #1187
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    Planning on building up a chicoltin with a fox 36, i'm 5'6, anyone riding a medium with or around the same height? Thinking medium frame with 50mm stem. Thoughts?

    This will be my one and only bike...will be using it for local trails and some trips to the park.

  38. #1188
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    Quote Originally Posted by marathon dave View Post
    Planning on building up a chicoltin with a fox 36, i'm 5'6, anyone riding a medium with or around the same height? Thinking medium frame with 50mm stem. Thoughts?

    This will be my one and only bike...will be using it for local trails and some trips to the park.
    You can go either way (small/medium), but it seems most prefer going up a size; even more so with a short 35-50mm stem. What have your previous frames been?

    Also, check out our Chilcotin/36 COMBO deal!
    2014 Knolly Chilcotin frame and fork COMBO deal, NEW! For Sale
    Last edited by DirtMerchantBicycles; 03-16-2015 at 07:54 PM.
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  39. #1189
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    I have only had one bike before. 2010 trek fuel ex 8. It was 17.5.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  40. #1190
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    A medium Chilcotin will be a touch longer but with a much lower stand over height. Your Trek has a reach of 412mm and a stand over of 758mm, the medium Chilcotin is 420mm/729mm respectively.

    If the Trek was comfortable, I'd recommend a medium. The small has a reach of 395mm, add a short stem and I think you'll feel cramped.
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  41. #1191
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    I'm 5'8" on a medium w 70 mm stem. 40 mm for park days. As "the one" bike , the Chilcotin rules !. 4 years , a gazillion trail miles, 3 park trips, and counting. ..

  42. #1192
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    Quote Originally Posted by marathon dave View Post
    Planning on building up a chicoltin with a fox 36, i'm 5'6, anyone riding a medium with or around the same height? Thinking medium frame with 50mm stem. Thoughts?

    This will be my one and only bike...will be using it for local trails and some trips to the park.
    I am 5'8" and ride a medium with a 55mm stem. Have a Lyric set at 170mm.
    I would not want to go up a size as some people say is the now trend cause it takes away the playfull nature of the bike for me. Yes I have tried a large for a short bit for thoese who will crap on my findings.

  43. #1193
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    Thanks guys for the feedback. I have to find someone local who might have one to just try it on for size.

  44. #1194
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    Does any one run a chili with a 180mm fork and an external headset cup? If yes, what is your geo like? Does the bike lose some of its desired traits (I.e. Cornering, climbing, etc)? I've been considering putting a Metric on set at 180 for more of a "park" style bike, but it's only offered in a tapered steerer and it doesn't look like they make a zero stack for a tapered steerer and a 49mm head tube. I had a Pike on there this past year and climbed and cornered great, but it felt overwhelmed in the bigger stuff.
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  45. #1195
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    No ride time on a 180mm fork.

    You'll be roughly 1 degree slacker with a 20mm increase. A 160mm/26" Pike has an axle to crown length of 542mm vs 565mm on the Metric. 23mm difference so a little over 1 degree slacker and a higher BB.

    If it turns out to be to slacked out for you can try the steeper geo setting or reduce the Metric down to 160mm. The Metric is a stiff and burly fork! Send me a PM if you're interested in one, I have a chrome one hanging on the wall.
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  46. #1196
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProphet View Post
    Does any one run a chili with a 180mm fork and an external headset cup? If yes, what is your geo like? Does the bike lose some of its desired traits (I.e. Cornering, climbing, etc)? I've been considering putting a Metric on set at 180 for more of a "park" style bike, but it's only offered in a tapered steerer and it doesn't look like they make a zero stack for a tapered steerer and a 49mm head tube. I had a Pike on there this past year and climbed and cornered great, but it felt overwhelmed in the bigger stuff.
    I run with 180 but it's a talas so i can switch to 140. If it's at 180 it's an absolute beast on the downhill. Can ride like that all mountain but it can be more difficult on lots of climbs especially technical climbs. Can still do it though. One bonus that I found in 180 mode is the bottom bracket is higher and so i get less pedal strikes.

  47. #1197
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    I ran a 180 66 for trail riding while my 160 was getting warranty repair. With the rear shock in the steep position., it actually rode well. A tad wavgy on the super steep stuff, but great every where else.

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    Cool. Thanks for the info. I have a 170mm 55 on it right now, but it doesn't feel very good and is going in for service. Considered selling it when it got back mainly because that Metric looks like a beefy fork and it would be cool to try XFusion.
    Bikes

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    Winter project this year. Swapped a few components over from my Gen 1 Endo. Looking forward to spring for inaugural ride. You'll have to forgive my attempt at artsy photos. I was bored with all this wet weather.

    Large Chilcotin
    XFusion Vengeance HLR @ 170mm
    Cane Creek DB Air
    Magura MT5 Brakes
    EThirteen LG1 Cranks
    EThirteen TRS Chainguide + Bash
    Wheels: Hope Hubs + Spank Oozy
    Chromag Saddle and Bars

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-p4pb12031778.jpg

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-p4pb12031793.jpg

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-p4pb12031792.jpg

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-p4pb12031788.jpg

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-p4pb12031783.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheProphet View Post
    Does any one run a chili with a 180mm fork and an external headset cup? If yes, what is your geo like? Does the bike lose some of its desired traits (I.e. Cornering, climbing, etc)? I've been considering putting a Metric on set at 180 for more of a "park" style bike, but it's only offered in a tapered steerer and it doesn't look like they make a zero stack for a tapered steerer and a 49mm head tube. I had a Pike on there this past year and climbed and cornered great, but it felt overwhelmed in the bigger stuff.

    I'm approximately on the same boat... Just finished my build of a medium chilco matched with a 180mm Suntour Durolux (tapered steerer and CC40 series external bottom cup). No trails test at this time, we still have a lot of snow here. Just some wheel turns in my town streets but I'm sure it's a very capable and playful bike. My build is more FR/park oriented (more details and pics soon...) and I think actual geo is on the good side (approx. 65° HA with iphone angle finder at steep position...).

    My only question is about cornering and I'll try certainly soon or later 160mm fork setting with slack & steep mode for more AM use. Maybe the use of an headset like works components is another good option ?

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