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  1. #101
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    The countdown has begun!!!

    I spent all last night finalizing my build list and ordered the rest of it today.

    My wheelset is being built today by the best builder I could find.

    And, best of all, my Chili is on the way!



  2. #102
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    What'd the final build list end up looking like?
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    What'd the final build list end up looking like?
    Here's a messy version. Sorry I didn't have time to make it more readable. I will do that when I get it built and some pictures.

    + Med Chilcotin with CCDBair

    + Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset (22-36) 170mm Arm length GPX BB
    + Race Face crank boots
    + X0 Chain Guide ISCG-05 version
    + Loaded AmX Pedals
    + Hope Mtn ceramic BB, 68/73mm
    + SRAM PG-1050 10sp Cassette 11-36 (11,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36)
    + PC1071 Chain
    + S3 (DM), Top Pull, 22/36t (2x10) Der; Mfg #: 00.7615.177.040; UPC #: 710845674136
    + Sram X.9 Rear Derailleur - 10 Speed
    + Gore RideOn Black Extra Long Low Friction Sealed Shift Cable and Housing System
    + SRAM X.9 2 x 10 Speed Trigger Shifter Set (Until I can get a set of X0 Grip Shifters.)

    + Stans ZTR Flow 26" disc rim
    + Sapim C-X Ray 14g bladed spoke
    + DT Swiss 2.0 x 12mm Alloy Nipples
    + Hadley DH Front disc hub, 20x110mm
    + Hadley Rear 8/9/10-spd Hub 12x142

    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Front Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Rear Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT RT86 IceTech 180mm 6-bolt Rotor

    + Schwalbe Hans Dampf 26x2.35 Snake Skin Tubeless Ready Folding Tire Trailstar
    + Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    + Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky

    + Lyrik RC2 DH Solo Air 170mm (Couldn't get the coil and I will probably buy the Avy Kit)
    + Marzocchi 66 (Avy Kit on its way)

    + Cane Creek 40 ZS49 headset
    + WCS C-260 Matrix stem, (31.8) 6/84dx90 UD
    + RaceFace SIXC 31.8, 725mm
    + Straitline Components SC 1-1/8" headset spacer kit
    + Oury Lock-On grips

    + Thomson 31.6 x 410mm Black Seatpost (Want a height-adjust but don't know what to get.)
    + Chromag Seat QR 35mm
    + Fizik Aliante Gamma XM White K:ium Rail

    You will notice duplicates in tires and forks because I couldn't make up my mind. (There is so much "Knollyage" on this board and very compelling arguments.) Other choices (e.g. saddle) had two or three evenly-matched contenders so I usually let price, looks, or whim decide.

    In retrospect, I wish I would have delayed buying everything until this week as some of my choices would have changed with all the info I have learned from posters on the Knolly forum (example: I might have gone with longer crank arms since the measured BB heights seem to be above spec).

    Overall, I'm happy with what I bought. Who knows it could be the perfect build for me. Only time in the saddle will tell. I'm looking forward to find out!

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Here's a messy version. Sorry I didn't have time to make it more readable. I will do that when I get it built and some pictures.

    + Med Chilcotin with CCDBair

    + Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset (22-36) 170mm Arm length GPX BB
    + Race Face crank boots
    + X0 Chain Guide ISCG-05 version
    + Loaded AmX Pedals
    + Hope Mtn ceramic BB, 68/73mm
    + SRAM PG-1050 10sp Cassette 11-36 (11,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36)
    + PC1071 Chain
    + S3 (DM), Top Pull, 22/36t (2x10) Der; Mfg #: 00.7615.177.040; UPC #: 710845674136
    + Sram X.9 Rear Derailleur - 10 Speed
    + Gore RideOn Black Extra Long Low Friction Sealed Shift Cable and Housing System
    + SRAM X.9 2 x 10 Speed Trigger Shifter Set (Until I can get a set of X0 Grip Shifters.)

    + Stans ZTR Flow 26" disc rim
    + Sapim C-X Ray 14g bladed spoke
    + DT Swiss 2.0 x 12mm Alloy Nipples
    + Hadley DH Front disc hub, 20x110mm
    + Hadley Rear 8/9/10-spd Hub 12x142

    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Front Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Rear Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT RT86 IceTech 180mm 6-bolt Rotor

    + Schwalbe Hans Dampf 26x2.35 Snake Skin Tubeless Ready Folding Tire Trailstar
    + Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    + Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky

    + Lyrik RC2 DH Solo Air 170mm (Couldn't get the coil and I will probably buy the Avy Kit)
    + Marzocchi 66 (Avy Kit on its way)

    + Cane Creek 40 ZS49 headset
    + WCS C-260 Matrix stem, (31.8) 6/84dx90 UD
    + RaceFace SIXC 31.8, 725mm
    + Straitline Components SC 1-1/8" headset spacer kit
    + Oury Lock-On grips

    + Thomson 31.6 x 410mm Black Seatpost (Want a height-adjust but don't know what to get.)
    + Chromag Seat QR 35mm
    + Fizik Aliante Gamma XM White K:ium Rail

    You will notice duplicates in tires and forks because I couldn't make up my mind. (There is so much "Knollyage" on this board and very compelling arguments.) Other choices (e.g. saddle) had two or three evenly-matched contenders so I usually let price, looks, or whim decide.

    In retrospect, I wish I would have delayed buying everything until this week as some of my choices would have changed with all the info I have learned from posters on the Knolly forum (example: I might have gone with longer crank arms since the measured BB heights seem to be above spec).

    Overall, I'm happy with what I bought. Who knows it could be the perfect build for me. Only time in the saddle will tell. I'm looking forward to find out!
    I have a similar build (2 x 10, lyrik, 170 mm cranks, etc). This is my first bike with 170mm crank arms and I notice no pedaling difference whatsoever. YMMV. Enjoy the ride; I'm loving mine.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by rippling over canyons View Post
    I have a similar build (2 x 10, lyrik, 170 mm cranks, etc). This is my first bike with 170mm crank arms and I notice no pedaling difference whatsoever. YMMV. Enjoy the ride; I'm loving mine.
    Great to know! I was a bit worried about the 170mm fork and the shorter cranks negatively effecting cornering (higher center of balance), but I reasoned:

    1) It will still be better than my Reign; and
    2) I can always put them on a bike like the Delirium that is a bit more down-hill oriented.

    Now I have a bit more faith! Thank so much for the post!

  6. #106
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    @TSC - nice plan

    Here`s my setup; finally complete.
    Steep mode, - 0.5deg slackening (angleset), trad. 1x9 - 34T front, 11-32 rear. 70mm stem, 20mm spacers below stem, 10mm rise in handlebar (740mm width, 12deg backsweep). Best tech climber ever ridden, fun when coming down.



    Kronolog has been in use only 2weeks - so far no probs...
    Last edited by pergamonx; 05-26-2012 at 08:55 PM.

  7. #107
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    size / weight

    what's the size / weight come in at?

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by pergamonx View Post
    Here`s my setup; finally complete.
    Steep mode, - 0.5deg slackening (angleset), trad. 1x9 - 34T front, 11-32 rear. 70mm stem, 20mm spacers below stem, 10mm rise in handlebar (740mm width, 12deg backsweep). Best tech climber ever ridden, fun when coming down.
    You're bad-ass pergamonx!!! The parts of your legs that aren't steel must be extra lungs. For a contrast: assuming you are running 175mm cranks in your lowest gear, your mechanical advantage is 0.59, while mine is going to be 1.00 in my lowest gear and I still plan on coughing blood on few long climbs.

    Angleset: I almost bought an angleset, but then I thought of my mechanical skills (or lack of to be more accurate) and imagined my fork being slightly offset to one side of the bike--running a 0.45deg slackening with a .05deg angle left or right. Don't know if that is possible but if it is I would do it.

    Thanks for your advice and the PMs. You've been very helpful.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I spent all last night finalizing my build list and ordered the rest of it today.

    My wheelset is being built today by the best builder I could find.

    And, best of all, my Chili is on the way!


    so, who is that best wheel builder you could find?
    breezy shade

  10. #110
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    @biobike - if you asked size / weight of my bike - size is M and weight is ~13,2 kg`s with that wheelset. Havocs are 1750g`s and those Ardents are 2.4" in rear and 2.6" in front ...

    @TCS - all my cranks are 175mm - my legs are not steel, but honestly - after riding ~200 hours with full rigid singlespeed using 32T in front and 18T rear during past 4 months, had to swap 31T to 34T front in Chili ... 35T is in order now. But we don`t have mountains here, a lot of rocky hills instead - typical uphill is ~30 meters up in ~200meter trail lenght... Still needing something like 30T in front and 36T lowest in rear if climbing Foret Verte etc in Alpine terrain.

    Angleset is ok, but getting full advantage, you`ll need right tools for removing cups and pressing cups back. Alignment is simple when using right tools, don`t be afraid of that. But try first normal headset. If you feel that everything else is just right, but head angle could be slacker / steeper, then Angleset is one answer. Not the only one, but probably the most flexible.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by nhodge View Post
    so, who is that best wheel builder you could find?
    I limited my search to the area I spend most of my time--northern UT, western WY, and eastern ID. There are some highly rated professionals out there that were outside my search zone. Example: Dave Thomas: SpeedDream.com

    I PMed Steve Sessions whose LinkedIn profile says he's a wheel builder for Enve Composites (I thought that probably qualifies him) but got no response.

    The person that built my wheels is, according to their service manager, the best wheel builder at Contender Bicycles--one of the top-end bike shops in SL, UT. (They actually specialize more in road stuff.) I was referred to them by a acquaintance who owned a bike shop in northern UT until a few years ago.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    The person that built my wheels is, according to their service manager, the best wheel builder at Contender Bicycles--one of the top-end bike shops in SL, UT. (They actually specialize more in road stuff.) I was referred to them by a acquaintance who owned a bike shop in northern UT until a few years ago.
    My buddy had a good things to say about that shop when he dropped in, if that helps. Said the staff was extremely down to earth and cool.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  13. #113
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    Bike porn for those with a wheel fetish!

    Took a little gamble on my wheels and they turned out incredible! When all the guys in the bike shop are checking out/complimenting the wheels and not the girl picking them up you know it's a good sign.

    Better photos to come when the bike is together.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-image1.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-image4.jpg  


  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by pergamonx View Post
    @TSC - nice plan

    Here`s my setup; finally complete.
    Steep mode, - 0.5deg slackening (angleset), trad. 1x9 - 34T front, 11-32 rear. 70mm stem, 20mm spacers below stem, 10mm rise in handlebar (740mm width, 12deg backsweep). Best tech climber ever ridden, fun when coming down.



    Kronolog has been in use only 2weeks - so far no probs...
    Wow nice build. I'm waiting for my chili with bos fork.......how you finding the bos fork?? I can't wait!!

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom34 View Post
    Wow nice build. I'm waiting for my chili with bos fork.......how you finding the bos fork?? I can't wait!!
    Easy to get BOS when living in Europe. Got mine last summer via Knolly UK, in UK there`s R53 as local importer. Few friends having Devilles purchased those directly from BOSMTB.

  16. #116
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    bling'd out

    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Took a little gamble on my wheels and they turned out incredible! When all the guys in the bike shop are checking out/complimenting the wheels and not the girl picking them up you know it's a good sign.
    ya... i lightly tricked out my wife's hardtail - carbon bars and such - and she'll get guys fawning over the bike...

    or hey! maybe they're lightly hitting on her !?!

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by funkle View Post
    Here's a somewhat lame photo of my bike. I've been having too much fun riding it to take some decent photos. I'll take some better photos after giving it a proper cleaning.

    So far I'm loving everything, except for the shock. I should've gone with my instinct to use a coil, but thought I'd give the air a try after my dealers assurance that RP23s have come a long way and feel just like coils -
    looks like the Chilis have invaded NorCal. Is that Pacifica?

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by pergamonx View Post
    Here`s my setup; finally complete.
    Is that the CCDBair shock? Why did you finally choose that over the VipR?

  19. #119
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    here's mine

    Medium with DB air
    2010 Fox 36 Float
    Chromag OSX bars
    Magura Marta Brakes
    Chromag 50 mm Stem
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Thomson post
    Chromag clamp
    Selle Italia SLR seat
    X9 shifters and rear derailleur
    sram 1080 cassette
    MRP GS2 SL
    XTR 970 Cranks with 32 tooth ring
    crank brothers candy ti
    ENVE all mountain rims
    dt swiss reveloution spokes
    dt swiss 240 hubs
    Wheels built by the best builder i could find as well...myself
    Maxxis Minion dhf front and rear set up tubeless

    complete build 29 pounds 4 ounces
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-chilly-001.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-chilly-007.jpg  


  20. #120
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    Congrats...first Chili under 30lb I think?

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by pfarrell View Post
    here's mine

    Medium with DB air
    2010 Fox 36 Float
    Chromag OSX bars
    Magura Marta Brakes
    Chromag 50 mm Stem
    Cane Creek 40 headset
    Thomson post
    Chromag clamp
    Selle Italia SLR seat
    X9 shifters and rear derailleur
    sram 1080 cassette
    MRP GS2 SL
    XTR 970 Cranks with 32 tooth ring
    crank brothers candy ti
    ENVE all mountain rims
    dt swiss reveloution spokes
    dt swiss 240 hubs
    Wheels built by the best builder i could find as well...myself
    Maxxis Minion dhf front and rear set up tubeless

    complete build 29 pounds 4 ounces
    looks like a twenty6 stem on there. sweet build btw. i do love that blue.

  22. #122
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    good eye, it is indeed a twenty6

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by pfarrell View Post
    Wheels built by the best builder i could find as well...myself
    Beautiful bike. I would've preferred to have my wheels built in JH. I talked with a few JH friends but nobody would direct me to anyone in particular and I couldn't find any info on TGR or Craigslist. Do you work at an LBS in JH or do wheelbuilding for others?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    Congrats...first Chili under 30lb I think?
    pergamonx said his Chili weighs "~13,2 kg`s" which is ~29.1 lbs, and I think I remember another one breaking the 30 lbs barrier. Whatever the case, that's an amazing weight to hit.

  25. #125
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    Very Nice!
    OK I'm getting Chili fever.

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by biobike View Post
    ya... i lightly tricked out my wife's hardtail - carbon bars and such - and she'll get guys fawning over the bike...

    or hey! maybe they're lightly hitting on her !?!
    That's not good news. If guys start complimenting me on my wheels I'll have to wonder about their motives!?!

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Beautiful bike. I would've preferred to have my wheels built in JH. I talked with a few JH friends but nobody would direct me to anyone in particular and I couldn't find any info on TGR or Craigslist. Do you work at an LBS in JH or do wheelbuilding for others?
    i used to workat the Edge Sports before they closed up but not associated with a shop currently.
    I am sure who ever built your wheels did a great job but if you need any built locally by a certified builder with lots of experience, send me a pm.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Is that the CCDBair shock? Why did you finally choose that over the VipR?
    That`s DB Air. Not specially choosen that over anything - in my terms "setup completed" means that riding position and geo/ adjustments related to it, are completed. Wheelsets/ tyres, cranksets + pedals and shocks are still components I`m switching every now and then...

    DB Air is nice. Like those huge adjustment ranges and opportunity to change "the soul and spirit" of suspension within 30secs.

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by dulyebr View Post
    Knolly Chilcotin (med raw)
    DHX w/ Push MX-Tune
    Geax Lobo Loco 2.3 TnT tires
    Cane Creek XIIX tapered headset
    Industry 9 Enduro wheels
    Rock Shox Lyrik SoloAir w/ DH dampers
    Magura Louise 180/160mm storm rotors
    RaceFace SixC bars 725mm
    RaceFace SixC cranks
    XT front der.
    XT 11-34 cassette
    X.0 triggers
    X.0 med cage rear der.
    Thomson 70mm/ 0deg stem
    RockShox Reverb seatpost
    Specialized Henge saddle
    Time ATAC ROC carbon pedals
    Oury grips
    Jagwire Expressway L3 housing
    - weight: 31.9lbs
    Hey Duly!
    That looks stunning! I am looking at these Chilis lately... How do you like it comparing to the ML?
    Cheers!
    Kovi

  30. #130
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    I like those raw finished
    Are those bare alloys only or there is some kind of clearcoat/topcoat on it?
    Seems a bit glossy to me as compare to other brands raw
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bullit_cn View Post
    I like those raw finished
    Are those bare alloys only or there is some kind of clearcoat/topcoat on it?
    Seems a bit glossy to me as compare to other brands raw
    Raw. No topcoats. Graphics are printed/painted on and metal looks like it was finished with a wire wheel.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  32. #132
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    I notice that most of the builds that have the Lyrik fork are the airs not the coil. What is the main reason to go air over coil?
    My Chili will have a CCDB air so should I stick with an air fork.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I notice that most of the builds that have the Lyrik fork are the airs not the coil. What is the main reason to go air over coil?
    My Chili will have a CCDB air so should I stick with an air fork.
    It's all preference. Both have trade offs. Coil can be hard to match up spring rates to get the right sag, where as air have been known to not be as plush if you dial out the brake dive.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I notice that most of the builds that have the Lyrik fork are the airs not the coil. What is the main reason to go air over coil?
    My Chili will have a CCDB air so should I stick with an air fork.
    The Lyrik Air is supposedly a fantastic fork, but I wanted the Lyrik Coil for three reasons:

    1) pergamonx said that people he knew were putting springs in their Lyrik Airs.

    2) I wanted to see if the coil would take out the bob (my description) tiSS'er talked about in his Lyrik + Avalanche thread; and what made him finally do the Avalanche upgrade.

    3) Craig at Avalanche said they like coils best for their mods.

    I ended up with a Lyrik Air for the following reasons:

    1) My LBS uses BTI & QBP (two of the biggest wholesalers) and they don't have (or don't carry) the Lyrik Coil. Between the two, they have the Dual Position Air, Solo Air, U-Turn (coil), but no Coil. I'm not sure why this is.

    2) tiSS'er really liked the Air and LOVES his Air w/Avalanche mods. I doubt I can go wrong following his example. (Hopefully, I will just like the Air as is and won't feel the need to put another $500 into the fork.)
    Last edited by TSC; 05-29-2012 at 11:06 AM. Reason: correct misspell of poster's name

  35. #135
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    I have an Lyrik SA as well, and absolutely love it so far. I have no desire to put the my coil version on it.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  36. #136
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    I just found a 170 mm Lyrik RC2 DH brand new in the box for $650 or should I buy the same fork in a coil (slightly used) for $600.

  37. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I just found a 170 mm Lyrik RC2 DH brand new in the box for $650 or should I buy the same fork in a coil (slightly used) for $600.
    I have an air that is extremely plush. I don't see the need for coil.

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I notice that most of the builds that have the Lyrik fork are the airs not the coil. What is the main reason to go air over coil?
    My Chili will have a CCDB air so should I stick with an air fork.
    I have been running a Lyrik Solo Air DH for the past few years and it is now on my Chili with a CCDB coil. I recently upgraded the damper to an Avalanche for no real reason other than I could, and Avy stuff is amazing.

    As far as the air vs. coil question, it is a tough one. I recently decided I was going to upgrade to a coil but didn't for several reasons. Primarily, as previously mentioned is adjustability. The SRAM coils have always been a challenge for me as I am between rates. Mediums are typically too soft, and hard is too stiff. The air is completely adjustable and I can change it as I gain or lose weight. Also, RS really seems to have the air cartridge figured out. It is exceptionally simple and works well. Small bump is very good, and the fork ramps well without being harsh. I have never really had too much issue with brake dive, and now with the Avy it all but non-existent. The beauty of the Lyrik SA is when you get up to speed. The fork works exceptionally, and matched the CCDB coil very well. In the end, I wasn't sure what I was really gaining by going to a coil. The SA has been dependable, I have not had to touch it. I also figured that moving to a coil was more of a "the grass is greener" scenario. What I gained with a coil, I would lose without the air.

    I think the advantages of the air ultimately outweigh the advantages of a coil.
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  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    ...tiSS'er talked about in his Lyrik + Avalanche thread; and what made him finally do the Avalanche upgrade....
    @ tiSS'er: Thanks for your post. I thought my abbreviated version of your fork preference didn't give the complete story and I referenced your Lyrik + Avalanche thread in hopes that anyone interested in the topic would read your thread to get the whole story.

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    The Lyrik Air is supposedly a fantastic fork, but I wanted the Lyrik Coil for three reasons:

    1) pergamonx said that people he knew were putting springs in their Lyrik Airs.
    ......
    In fact, that has happened here. But. Getting advantages / feeling of coil is minor reason, major one is reliability and usability in winter conditions. Winter does not mean rainy and muddy conditions, we have here real one - lot of snow and temperatures down to -35C degrees. If you are willing to ride 11-12months / year and you`ve to survive with only one fork, air fork is not an option.

  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I just found a 170 mm Lyrik RC2 DH brand new in the box for $650 or should I buy the same fork in a coil (slightly used) for $600.
    lyrik sa as well. don't see the need for coil. i have the sa on my hardtail now and a bos ordered for my chili. almost wish i would have skipped the bos and got the avy cartridge for the lyrik after seeing bos is not very helpful service wise outside of europe.

    the lyrik is a great fork, better than any fox i've had including kashima coated floats. i like infinite spring rate adjustment too

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    lyrik sa as well. don't see the need for coil. i have the sa on my hardtail now and a bos ordered for my chili.
    Ditto here. I like my SA on the Chili so much I'm thinking of trying to find a used SA to put on my Evil hardtail, to replace the Coil DH U-turn on there now.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by pergamonx View Post
    In fact, that has happened here. But. Getting advantages / feeling of coil is minor reason, major one is reliability and usability in winter conditions. Winter does not mean rainy and muddy conditions, we have here real one - lot of snow and temperatures down to -35C degrees. If you are willing to ride 11-12months / year and you`ve to survive with only one fork, air fork is not an option.
    I've punished my LYRIK AIR RC2DH with NO problems in the winter. I've ridden it at 10 degrees with no issues. I'm not riding my bike below 10 degrees so I'm not sure how it would perform in Antarctica.

  44. #144
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    @mayha - so do many others, temps below -10C degrees are not a problem for air suspensions IF you can store your bike inside between rides and IF those sessions are not really long ones. But there`s no such air fork manufactured yet, which will work ok when stored one week outside in -20C temps. Best ones are not fully rigid, they offer ~50% of compression lenght and rebound times are not very many seconds ...

    Don`t know Antarctica either, living in mild siberian climate

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Ditto here. I like my SA on the Chili so much I'm thinking of trying to find a used SA to put on my Evil hardtail, to replace the Coil DH U-turn on there now.
    can you just swap out the guts?

    Rockshox Lyrik RC2 DH Dampner - Pinkbike

    160/170 Lyrik Air Spring Assembly - Pinkbike

    after writing that i got thinking you may not be able to as the spring can scratch the inner part of the stantion and compromise the air spring assembly. you could switch it to the dh cartridge cheaply though

  46. #146
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    I wouldn't try b/c of what you said about the coil scratching the inner stanchion. I've heard several times that's why you can go coil to air, just the other way around.

    It's got the DH cart in there though. Started out life as a fixed 170 DH coil before I made it a U-turn.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I wouldn't try b/c of what you said about the coil scratching the inner stanchion. I've heard several times that's why you can go coil to air, just the other way around.

    It's got the DH cart in there though. Started out life as a fixed 170 DH coil before I made it a U-turn.
    ok. didn't realize you already had the dh dampener.

  48. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by pergamonx View Post
    In fact, that has happened here. But. Getting advantages / feeling of coil is minor reason, major one is reliability and usability in winter conditions. Winter does not mean rainy and muddy conditions, we have here real one - lot of snow and temperatures down to -35C degrees. If you are willing to ride 11-12months / year and you`ve to survive with only one fork, air fork is not an option.
    @ pergamonx: thank you for speaking for yourself. You did a much better job than my short synopsis.

    Now all we need is Craig from Avalanche Downhill Racing to tell us his reasoning and I will feel great about my post. (I was trying to give my reasoning and my sources. Not trying to speak for anyone else.)

  49. #149
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    For those with painted chilies, how does the paint hold up to rocks roosted from the front tire? Does the paint chip easy? Just wondering if I need to put some clear 3M tape on my downtube. I have never had a painted bike only raw or powder coat.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOCAL_STINKY View Post
    For those with painted chilies, how does the paint hold up to rocks roosted from the front tire? Does the paint chip easy? Just wondering if I need to put some clear 3M tape on my downtube. I have never had a painted bike only raw or powder coat.
    After one day riding at mammoth last summer, the whole underside of my raw podium was sand blasted. Don't think paint will hold up better. Get the 3M tape just to be sure. Once it goes, it's gone. I put it on all my bikes.

  51. #151
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    Frame Size & Color: Medium Raw
    Rear Shock: DB air
    Fork: Lyrik Solo Air DH 170mm
    Brakes: Shimano XT, 200 mm front and 180mm rear, Goodridge brakelines
    Shifter: SRAM X.9 10 Speed
    Cranks: Race Face SIXC 170mm
    Chainguide: E13
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 super short
    Pedals: NC17 Sudpin III
    Stem: Chromag 50mm
    Handlebar: Chromag OSX
    Seatpost: Thomson
    Saddle: SDG TI Fly
    Cassette: Shimano XT
    Headset: Chris King
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Tires: Maxxis Minion EXO
    Wheelset: DT Swiss EX500, Hadley hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes


    32lbs

  52. #152
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    Nice Madafaka , do you normally use 170mm cranks ? Or is this just on this build, for a little more clearance in the slack mode?

  53. #153
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    Cable routing

    Just wanted to give a heads up for anyone running a front derailleur. The upper line routing that makes the bend toward the cable stop should be a large radius to avoid getting pinched in the linkage. I previously had my routing tight to the frame with a small radius at the bend. I noticed some marking on the frame from the cable housing getting pinched in the linkage.

    So I let the air out of the shock, like I should have from the beginning, and checked the clearance. It turns out, that on a large frame, the radius at the bend needs to be larger to clear the linkage as it passes the seat tube of the frame. To do this, I taped the cable on either side of the first cable boss on the top tube. This will probably be different for each size of frame, but not a bad idea to check. Pictures of the improved routing...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-006.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-007.jpg  

    Portland Off Road Navagators

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by madafaka View Post


    Frame Size & Color: Medium Raw
    Rear Shock: DB air
    Fork: Lyrik Solo Air DH 170mm
    Brakes: Shimano XT, 200 mm front and 180mm rear, Goodridge brakelines
    Shifter: SRAM X.9 10 Speed
    Cranks: Race Face SIXC 170mm
    Chainguide: E13
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 super short
    Pedals: NC17 Sudpin III
    Stem: Chromag 50mm
    Handlebar: Chromag OSX
    Seatpost: Thomson
    Saddle: SDG TI Fly
    Cassette: Shimano XT
    Headset: Chris King
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Tires: Maxxis Minion EXO
    Wheelset: DT Swiss EX500, Hadley hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes


    32lbs
    Raw is a beauty
    Now I'm confused either to go with Blue or Raw
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  55. #155
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    Saw three of these Knolly bikes on the last group ride. What's so special about them?

    How do they compare to the Reign or Reign X?

  56. #156
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    Knolly

    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    Saw three of these Knolly bikes on the last group ride. What's so special about them?

    How do they compare to the Reign or Reign X?
    now that question is going to start a windfall of response.

    i've got the Delirium... let the lucky Chilcoltin owners sing the Knolly praise


    (though Dictatorsaurus: you might want to start this question as its own thread so it doesn't get buried in this deep build chain).

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    Saw three of these Knolly bikes on the last group ride. What's so special about them?

    How do they compare to the Reign or Reign X?
    I'll bite.

    It has all the prerequisites for a beefy AM bike:

    - Spot-on Geometry
    - Thru-axle
    - ISCG tabs
    - Full 1.5 headtube
    - Can take a 180 fork
    - Light enough to peddle all day (avg build around 32 lbs.)
    - Stiff and strong enough to handle all day at the lifts.
    - Works well with both coil and air shocks.
    - Careful attention to the details (cable routing, bolt types, welds, aesthetics, etc.)

    Take that list and you get a handful or so of bikes that fit that description. The things that put this bike over the top are:

    - Suspension. The 4x4 suspension is super active while still being a great peddler. My experience with the other designs is that while climbing the suspension stiffens up and then gets plush on the descent. I prefer a less Jeckle&Hyde suspension to my bikes.
    - Strength. This bike is as strong and stiff as most Freeride bikes. I've broken a lot of bikes in my biking career. It's nice to have the confidence that you can hit the bigger lines and not worry about breakage.
    - Customer Service. Been a Knolly customer for over 5 years now and the CS keeps getting better and better despite some of the growing pains they have had.

  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    I'll bite.

    It has all the prerequisites for a beefy AM bike:

    - Spot-on Geometry
    - Thru-axle
    - ISCG tabs
    - Full 1.5 headtube
    - Can take a 180 fork
    - Light enough to peddle all day (avg build around 32 lbs.)
    - Stiff and strong enough to handle all day at the lifts.
    - Works well with both coil and air shocks.
    - Careful attention to the details (cable routing, bolt types, welds, aesthetics, etc.)

    Take that list and you get a handful or so of bikes that fit that description. The things that put this bike over the top are:

    - Suspension. The 4x4 suspension is super active while still being a great peddler. My experience with the other designs is that while climbing the suspension stiffens up and then gets plush on the descent. I prefer a less Jeckle&Hyde suspension to my bikes.
    - Strength. This bike is as strong and stiff as most Freeride bikes. I've broken a lot of bikes in my biking career. It's nice to have the confidence that you can hit the bigger lines and not worry about breakage.
    - Customer Service. Been a Knolly customer for over 5 years now and the CS keeps getting better and better despite some of the growing pains they have had.
    Thanks!

    Any comparisons to the Reign X?

  59. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    Thanks!

    Any comparisons to the Reign X?
    Sorry, never ridden one of those.

  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    I'll bite.

    It has all the prerequisites for a beefy AM bike:

    - Spot-on Geometry
    - Thru-axle
    - ISCG tabs
    - Full 1.5 headtube
    =================
    - Can take a 180 fork
    =================
    - Light enough to peddle all day (avg build around 32 lbs.)
    - Stiff and strong enough to handle all day at the lifts.
    - Works well with both coil and air shocks.
    - Careful attention to the details (cable routing, bolt types, welds, aesthetics, etc.)

    Take that list and you get a handful or so of bikes that fit that description. The things that put this bike over the top are:

    - Suspension. The 4x4 suspension is super active while still being a great peddler. My experience with the other designs is that while climbing the suspension stiffens up and then gets plush on the descent. I prefer a less Jeckle&Hyde suspension to my bikes.
    - Strength. This bike is as strong and stiff as most Freeride bikes. I've broken a lot of bikes in my biking career. It's nice to have the confidence that you can hit the bigger lines and not worry about breakage.
    - Customer Service. Been a Knolly customer for over 5 years now and the CS keeps getting better and better despite some of the growing pains they have had.
    Not sure if your warranty will be void with 180mm fork?
    I'm fairly certain 170mm is the max allowable.

  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    How do they compare to the Reign or Reign X?
    I'm with biobike, you should start this in it's own thread and maybe call it, "Mini-link vs. Four by 4" because you are going to find that many of the posters on the Knolly forum have had bikes "similar" (i.e. mini-link bikes) to the Reign or Reign X but most have not had either of those two bikes.

    That said, I own a Reign and I have a Chilcotin on the way to replace it. Until it arrives I can't do a direct comparison. And, I'm not a good enough rider that I would trust my opinions too much. Additionally, the shock that I have on the Reign is crap (a RP2--OEM RP23--that has issues) so every thing I think of the Reign could be distorted by that shock. (I have a buddy with a Reign that loves it.)

    Climbing
    Pros: On non-tech climbs my Reign climbs much better than my 2008 Preston FR (by Transition bikes) that I bought the Reign to replace. The Reign is much lighter and doesn't take as much energy to propel forward in the flats or on a climb. On non-tech accents I love my Reign because it translates all my power forward and I can pass many of my buddies (the only time I can do that).

    Cons: I just can't find a sweet-spot on the Reign. I can't climb a steep, techy section without having either wheel spin or a floating front tire or both (tire lifts then drops when the back tire spins). My Preston FR (I still have the heavy pig and use it as my loaner bike) climbs much better on techy stuff until I run out of gas (did I mention that the bike was built up like a tank). I'm not sure if it is the Horst-link suspension or the weight that makes the difference.

    Chilcotin: From the reviews it seems to climb more like my Preston FR at a lighter weight and with less energy drain.

    Descending:
    I'm not a fan of the way the Reign descends; HOWEVER, this could be due to my rear shock. I love the way my Glory descends and my Preston FR is a lot of fun too; but when I'm descending on my Reign I'm wishing I was on one of my other bikes.

    Chilcotin: From the reviews and from what I perceive as the companies overall philosophy--downhill performance is highest priority--I'm am guessing that the Chili will kick both their butts without much trouble.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus View Post
    Thanks!

    Any comparisons to the Reign X?
    I owned a Reign for the last 6 years, so I have quite a bit of experience on that bike. I noticed an immediate difference on the Chilcotin. The climbing on the Chilly is so much more refined than the Reign. I have fought with finding a happy climbing position without wheel slip or front-end wander. The Chilly, even in the slack position is far more controllable and I don't find I am shifting in the seat on climbs to stay over the wheel.

    On the downhill, stability is the biggest difference I am noticing. The Reign always felt twitchy at speed, and never felt confidence inspiring. The Chilly has me dropping stuff I used to roll over, and way more confident at speed.

    The only time I miss the Reign is stand up climbing. It has a more solid pedaling platform, but I am gladly giving it up for all of the other bonuses. Seated climbing is only slightly better on the Reign. I did run an RP23 for a week, and with the pro-pedal on, you couldn't tell the diference between either bike. With the CCDBA, the Chilly has a bit more bounce, whch is a trade off for compliance.

    Overall frame stiffness seems higher on the Chilly, which is what I partially attribute to the stable feeling of the bike.

    Overall, the Chilcotin wins hands down.

  63. #163
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    Hey guys, I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Which shock mount is used for the slack setting? I think it's the front mount, but I'm not 100% sure.

    Thanks

  64. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by thansen View Post
    Hey guys, I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Which shock mount is used for the slack setting? I think it's the front mount, but I'm not 100% sure.

    Thanks
    Rear hole for slack setting.

  65. #165
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    New addition to my Knolly family...

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-both-knollys-resized.jpg

    Large Knolly Chilcotin Raw DB Air
    RS Lyrik RC2 DH 170
    Stans ZTR Flow Rim, Valve Stem & Tape (F&R) Tubeless
    DT Swiss 240s Hubs (F&R)
    Maxxis High Roller II EXO 2.5 (F&R)
    Reverb 125mm
    Thomson X4 70mm
    Thomson Seat Collar
    Cane Creek 110
    Woodman Extreme Headset Lock
    Avid XO Brakes F&R 180/180
    Raceface SixC Single 170 /E.13 32T Ring
    Straitline AMP
    X9 Shifter Rear 1 x 10
    Jagwire Shifter Cable/Wire
    X9 Short Rear Derailleur
    MRP Mini G2 SL Chain Guide
    Easton Havoc Carbon
    Oury Lock-on
    Sram 1080 11-36 Cassette 10 Speed
    1091R 10 Speed Chain
    WTB Pure V SLT White

    Chilcotin build weight is 31.1 lbs.

  66. #166
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    <a href="http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb68/chuckspartz/?action=view&amp;current=Screenshot2012-06-20at41911PM.png" target="_blank"><img src="http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb68/chuckspartz/Screenshot2012-06-20at41911PM.png" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    Itís almost done. The brakes will be here tomorrow and the LEV seat post will be here Fri.
    I was going to get a blue frame but I decided to go with the Raw with some blue parts (just a little bling).

    Here is the final build.
    Raw Chilcotin Med.
    CCDB Air
    Chris King Headset (Blue)
    Chris King BB (Blue)
    Chris King Hubs (Blue)
    Enve AM Rims
    Trail King UST 2.4 Tires
    XO Crank 1X10 32tooth MRP Bling Ring
    MRP Mini G2 Chain Guide
    Lyrik RD2 DH Coil 170mm Fork
    Thomson Stem 70mm
    Hope Tech Evo M4 Brakes, Floating Rotors, 203mm front 183mm rear
    XTR Shadow Plus Derailleur
    XTR Shifter
    LEV Seat Post 125mm
    Race Face SIXC Bars
    Loaded Binder Clamp (Blue)
    Loaded Headset spacers (Blue)
    Loaded Pedals (Blue)
    Saddle ? I'm still not sure what I want so I'll use one I have for now.

  67. #167
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    Great build... congrats! I'm sure Q and crew will take good care of you.

    I'll be in Hurkin' in October with two Knollys in tow. The wife and I had a lots of fun at the first two Mountain Bike Fests and I'm always looking for another excuse to ride SW Utah.

  68. #168
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    Is there a best way to route the cabling for the reverb seatpost to eliminate cable rub or annoyance? Going to build up my chili today and wanted to see what you guys have come up with/ suggestions.

  69. #169
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    Chili Porn to make your Sunday better!

    Had some great fun today getting to know my Chili. Fun bike! I will give more details when I have more saddle time and I get the bike dialed.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-chili-porn1.jpg  

    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  70. #170
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    Nice! Congrats. Nice to see another white on white chili! Any other color than raw nowadays is a rare find!

    Looks good. Enjoy. We all know you will!

  71. #171
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    Very cool pic TSC. Are those the Sierras? What are the trails like?

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    Very cool pic TSC. Are those the Sierras? What are the trails like?
    Those are the Tetons in the Jackson Wyoming area. With mild summer temperatures and low humidity, Jackson is a great place to ride. If you also like beautiful scenery, wildlife, and/or mountain climbing then it is a great summer destination.

    I've never been to Whistler so I can't compare. Here's what I know:

    -- "The Pass" (Teton pass) has the best DH trails in the area. It is accessed by a nice paved road and has some cool stuff (check out: Teton Freedom Riders ). There is no formal shuttle but it's not that hard to catch a ride with other bikers and do multiple shuttle runs.

    -- Grand Targhee is supposedly opening a few trails at their ski resort (Grand Targhee Resort | Ski Vacation | Alta, WY) this summer.

    -- I did the lift access trails at Teton Village (Mountain Biking | Jackson Hole Mountain Resort). They are fun trails and were designed by Gravity Logic who made a lot of trails in the BC area; however there are only a few of them.

    pfarrell would have much more local knowledge on trails than me so he is a better resource for info, especially on the XC stuff.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by madafaka View Post


    Frame Size & Color: Medium Raw
    Rear Shock: DB air
    Fork: Lyrik Solo Air DH 170mm
    Brakes: Shimano XT, 200 mm front and 180mm rear, Goodridge brakelines
    Shifter: SRAM X.9 10 Speed
    Cranks: Race Face SIXC 170mm
    Chainguide: E13
    Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 super short
    Pedals: NC17 Sudpin III
    Stem: Chromag 50mm
    Handlebar: Chromag OSX
    Seatpost: Thomson
    Saddle: SDG TI Fly
    Cassette: Shimano XT
    Headset: Chris King
    Grips: ODI Rogue
    Tires: Maxxis Minion EXO
    Wheelset: DT Swiss EX500, Hadley hubs, Sapim CX Ray spokes


    32lbs
    Your cable route is really clean, I should have mine to be done as yours!

  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmpaints View Post
    Large Knolly Chilcotin Raw DB Air
    RS Lyrik RC2 DH 170
    Stans ZTR Flow Rim, Valve Stem & Tape (F&R) Tubeless
    DT Swiss 240s Hubs (F&R)
    Maxxis High Roller II EXO 2.5 (F&R)
    Reverb 125mm
    Thomson X4 70mm
    Thomson Seat Collar
    Cane Creek 110
    Woodman Extreme Headset Lock
    Avid XO Brakes F&R 180/180
    Raceface SixC Single 170 /E.13 32T Ring
    Straitline AMP
    X9 Shifter Rear 1 x 10
    Jagwire Shifter Cable/Wire
    X9 Short Rear Derailleur
    MRP Mini G2 SL Chain Guide
    Easton Havoc Carbon
    Oury Lock-on
    Sram 1080 11-36 Cassette 10 Speed
    1091R 10 Speed Chain
    WTB Pure V SLT White

    Chilcotin build weight is 31.1 lbs.
    Hi tmpaints.
    I've bought this frame in the same size and shox (I'm waiting). More or less I have the same components to mount, but I'm thinking to change my fork from U-turn to solo Air 170. How do you climb with this setup?
    Is your Fork Solo Air or Coil? Your bike weight is very well, less than my Ransom Carbon, and the only difference is the crankset and the fork.

    Thanks.

  75. #175
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    [QUOTE=TSC;9445229]Those are the Tetons in the Jackson Wyoming area. With mild summer temperatures and low humidity, Jackson is a great place to ride. If you also like beautiful scenery, wildlife, and/or mountain climbing then it is a great summer destination.

    I've never been to Whistler so I can't compare. Here's what I know:

    -- "The Pass" (Teton pass) has the best DH trails in the area. It is accessed by a nice paved road and has some cool stuff (check out: Teton Freedom Riders ). There is no formal shuttle but it's not that hard to catch a ride with other bikers and do multiple shuttle runs.

    *** Very impressive stuff from the Teton Freedom Riders. The trails look like a blast and those are some legit riders. I especially liked the "Almost Spring" vid!

  76. #176
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    [QUOTE=mayha;9445791]
    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Those are the Tetons in the Jackson Wyoming area. With mild summer temperatures and low humidity, Jackson is a great place to ride. If you also like beautiful scenery, wildlife, and/or mountain climbing then it is a great summer destination.

    I've never been to Whistler so I can't compare. Here's what I know:

    -- "The Pass" (Teton pass) has the best DH trails in the area. It is accessed by a nice paved road and has some cool stuff (check out: Teton Freedom Riders ). There is no formal shuttle but it's not that hard to catch a ride with other bikers and do multiple shuttle runs.

    *** Very impressive stuff from the Teton Freedom Riders. The trails look like a blast and those are some legit riders. I especially liked the "Almost Spring" vid!
    thats is impressive stuff. looks like a great place to ride. i've seen that one video in a thread on the mojo or someone touting it's abilities anyways. very nice

  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by graypaw View Post
    Hi tmpaints.
    I've bought this frame in the same size and shox (I'm waiting). More or less I have the same components to mount, but I'm thinking to change my fork from U-turn to solo Air 170. How do you climb with this setup?
    Is your Fork Solo Air or Coil? Your bike weight is very well, less than my Ransom Carbon, and the only difference is the crankset and the fork.

    Thanks.
    My Chilco climbs surprisingly well with the Lyrik DH Solo Air. I was accustomed to climbing the same SoCal trails on a 38 lb DT with a 36 Van 160. While not a perfect climbing fork, the longer Lyrik easily outshines the Fox uphill and is about even on the downhills. The CC zero stack headset helps by keeping the front end as low as possible. The Lyrik is my first air fork and so far I'm please with the choice and the performance.

    Jim

  78. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    *** Very impressive stuff from the Teton Freedom Riders. The trails look like a blast and those are some legit riders. I especially liked the "Almost Spring" vid!
    There are some hard-core riders in the area (e.g. at least one of the Canfield Bros of Canfield Brothers' Mountain Bikes lives local). My guess: it is mostly due to the local skiing. Teton Village (AKA Jackson Hole Mountain Resort) has some of the most extreme in-bounds skiing of any resort (example: Corbet's Couloir - YouTube) and the side country and back country skiing can make the inbounds stuff look tame. Many adrenaline junkies end up moving to Jackson to ski and they DH mountain bike in the summer.

    The Teton Freedom Riders has done a great job of working with the US Forest Service to build sanctioned, DH-only trails. They have also gotten grants to fund the trail builds. Dig days on the pass are amazing! Dig days are usually catered with sandwiches and a keg. There will be 30+ full-grown men working hard to make the trails. Mega props to the Teton Freedom Riders!!!
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmpaints View Post
    My Chilco climbs surprisingly well with the Lyrik DH Solo Air. I was accustomed to climbing the same SoCal trails on a 38 lb DT with a 36 Van 160. While not a perfect climbing fork, the longer Lyrik easily outshines the Fox uphill and is about even on the downhills. The CC zero stack headset helps by keeping the front end as low as possible. The Lyrik is my first air fork and so far I'm please with the choice and the performance.

    Jim
    OK Jim, thanks for your feedback.
    I will convert my U-turn to a Solo Air, for the best climbs I have the lock

    regards

  80. #180
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    I think this is one of the better videos for showing the features on Teton Pass:

    Mountain Biking Teton Pass, Wyoming - YouTube
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  81. #181
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    Quote Originally Posted by graypaw View Post
    OK Jim, thanks for your feedback.
    I will convert my U-turn to a Solo Air, for the best climbs I have the lock

    regards
    actually that is not an easy way to convert. you can convert air to coil, but not the other way around. the coil can scratch the inside of the stantion, leaving it hard for the seals of the air spring to work properly. if it was brand new it may work, but it'd be a crap shoot on a used fork

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I think this is one of the better videos for showing the features on Teton Pass:

    Mountain Biking Teton Pass, Wyoming - YouTube
    those vids make me want to make a trip there.

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimberjack View Post
    Overall frame stiffness seems higher on the Chilly, which is what I partially attribute to the stable feeling of the bike.

    Overall, the Chilcotin wins hands down.
    The other thing I think you'll find is that in 4 or 5 years the Chilcotin will still be tight and stiff with no sloppy pivots or worn bearings.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    those vids make me want to make a trip there.
    You are more than welcome to enjoy our trails any day.

    If you have a family, Jackson is a world-class destination with tons of outdoor activities (e.g. biking, white-water rafting, horse-back riding, etc.) and Yellowstone National Park (Yellowstone National Park - Google Image Search) just an hour away from Jackson.

    FWIW: I don't work for the board of tourism. I just sound like I do.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  85. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    You are more than welcome to enjoy our trails any day.

    If you have a family, Jackson is a world-class destination with tons of outdoor activities (e.g. biking, white-water rafting, horse-back riding, etc.) and Yellowstone National Park (Yellowstone National Park - Google Image Search) just an hour away from Jackson.

    FWIW: I don't work for the board of tourism. I just sound like I do.
    sounds good. i do have four daughters ranging in age from 5 to 13 and they all enjoy the outdoors. i am looking for a summer vacation spotfor this year. i'll have to do some more research and check my time availability. in the middle of big reno that is priority number one in my wife's eyes. vacation has to fit in around me getting sh!t done.

  86. #186
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    So I've been purposely avoiding this thread since the new builds have been popping up so as not to get my "I-gotta-have-a-new-bike" juices going.

    Slow day at work and I made the mistake of opening it up.

    Dang! Now I have a bad case of the Chills.

    Ranking favorite builds:

    Madafaka: No two ways to say it---- That is Bad A**!

    Rock Dude with the blue accents, Woodyak with the Gold accents and tiSS'er's are a close second. Lovin' the Raw. THe orange accents on dulyber's Raw also rocks.

    I've loved G-Air's Blue chili since he first posted it up several months ago... but at 29 lbs pfarrell's white on blue may have one-upped you a bit. That's just stupid sick.

    Then FNG's all white beauty is right in there too. Wow.

    Some nice builds.
    Last edited by KRob; 06-26-2012 at 04:10 PM.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  87. #187
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    So I can't decide what size to get. 5'8'' I am currently riding a medium covert with a 50mm stem, and a small podium 45-50mm stem. I really am not sure what I want. My friend has a small covert with 50mm stem and when I have rode it the shorter top tube really is fun on the jumps it just feels so much for poppy and wheelies easier, but I've never rode it up hill so I don't know if I would be cramped or be bashing my knee's on the bars. I'm using a post dropper, and with the 18" seat tube on the covert I have the post all the way in, and I'd like to have a little between the legs when I drop it not just all the way down.<not sure if that makes sense> I will be racing super-d's and enduros on it. On the transition website it has the reach and stack on there, how are these numbers formulated, what does the chill translate too? The 23.5" top tube scares me from the medium but the 15" seat tube on the small kind of scares me away from it, but I did say I want some more post. Ive always been kind of in-between the small and medium. I enjoy being playful on the trail wheelies over chunder, funky little gaps, drifting. So I lean toward the small but I don't want to feel to cramped because I will ride this on all day epics. Please post more pictures I am bored as hell I broke my collar bone second run on the podium I just built. Any insight would be cool, thanks folks.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To stay balanced, one must keep moving. - Albert Einstein

  88. #188
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    So I've been purposely avoiding this thread since the new builds have been popping up so as not to get my "I-gotta-have-a-new-bike" juices going.

    Slow day at work and I made the mistake of opening it up.

    Dang! Now I have a bad case of the Chills.

    Ranking favorite builds:

    Madafaka: No two ways to say it---- That is Bad A**!

    Rock Dude with the blue accents, Woodyak with the Gold accents and tiSS'er's are a close second. Lovin' the Raw. THe orange accents on dulyber's Raw also rocks.

    I've loved G-Air's Blue chili since he first posted it up several months ago... but at 29 lbs pfarrell's white on blue may have one-upped you a bit. That's just stupid sick.

    Then FNG's all white beauty is right in there too. Wow.

    Some nice builds.
    ...So my Chili came yesterday...and by some same strange coincidence....so did I. Here's another white one which will hopefully make your list, K.

    ...and for all those about to ask, 2012 Marzo 66 EVO, which I custom painted myself, paint used PPG DCC 9300 for anyone who cares.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-whitehotchilipeppah.jpg  


  89. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    actually that is not an easy way to convert. you can convert air to coil, but not the other way around. the coil can scratch the inside of the stantion, leaving it hard for the seals of the air spring to work properly. if it was brand new it may work, but it'd be a crap shoot on a used fork
    Thanks, very thanks for the update. I thought that is possible to convert spring to air, but I did not know this issue. I will buy one new when I can and save my money.

    regards.

  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by VanGor44 View Post
    ...So my Chili came yesterday...and by some same strange coincidence....so did I. Here's another white one which will hopefully make your list, K.
    Super sweet bike. I love the yellow rims. I think that brighter color rims show up better in pictures and make the whole picture pop. IMO, unless black or silver rims specifically go with the color scheme (e.g. raw with silver and black with ano) I would go for louder color rims.

    I LOVE the way my bike turned out and was surprised that the Knomers didn't ogle over it like the chicas do. Maybe my bike is a bit too loud for the Knolly crowd, but I'm more interested in attracting women than men.

    In the end, it only matters that you like the way your bike looks... and if your preferred sex likes it then all the better.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  91. #191
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    Never got around to posting my finished build on this thread. I'll get a detailed review posted up fairly soon, I'm heading to Moab for a Burro Down tomorrow and will be in the GJ/Vail area high country the rest of the weekend putting the Chilcotin through it's paces. Been out pretty much every day for the last week and really nothing but positives to say about the bike. I've been making a point to hit all the extremes of riding I can think of and been playing around with the head angle adjustment a lot and it's been fantastic all around. I'm eager to get it out in some really tech/ledgy terrain over the next couple days to see how that goes. Here's the build for now:

    Frame: Chilcotin in blue, large
    Rear Shock: Cane Creek Double Barrel Air
    Fork: Rock Shox Lyrik U-Turn Mission Control DH
    Brakes: Shimano SLX with Ice Tech rotors
    Shifters: XTR
    Cassette: PG990
    Chain: 951 cross step
    Chain Guide: MRP 2x
    Cranks: Shimano SLX double
    Bottom Bracket: XTR
    Front Derailleur: Shimano SLX E2
    Rear Derailleur: Shimano XT
    Saddle: WTB Pure V
    Seatpost: Reverb
    Seatpost Clamp: Salsa
    Headset: Cane Creek 40 ZS top, EC lower
    Stem: Thomson X4
    Bars: Race Face Atlas
    Grips: Lizard Skins Peaty
    Tires - Front: Continental Rubber Queen 2.4
    Tires - Rear: Advantage 2.4
    Wheels - King Mangos to Flows
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-03.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-02.jpg  

    Sipping the Knolly Whisquillappa

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by thegromit View Post
    So I can't decide what size to get. 5'8'' I am currently riding a medium covert with a 50mm stem, and a small podium 45-50mm stem. I really am not sure what I want. My friend has a small covert with 50mm stem and when I have rode it the shorter top tube really is fun on the jumps it just feels so much for poppy and wheelies easier, but I've never rode it up hill so I don't know if I would be cramped or be bashing my knee's on the bars. I'm using a post dropper, and with the 18" seat tube on the covert I have the post all the way in, and I'd like to have a little between the legs when I drop it not just all the way down.<not sure if that makes sense> I will be racing super-d's and enduros on it. On the transition website it has the reach and stack on there, how are these numbers formulated, what does the chill translate too? The 23.5" top tube scares me from the medium but the 15" seat tube on the small kind of scares me away from it, but I did say I want some more post. Ive always been kind of in-between the small and medium. I enjoy being playful on the trail wheelies over chunder, funky little gaps, drifting. So I lean toward the small but I don't want to feel to cramped because I will ride this on all day epics. Please post more pictures I am bored as hell I broke my collar bone second run on the podium I just built. Any insight would be cool, thanks folks.
    FYI,
    I'm 5'8" w 30" inseam on a medium. For the steep climbing in Austin, I can't imagine being on a small frame. I'm running a 70mm stem. Even with the seat all the way up, still have plenty of room to get over the back. Very good fit for me. With a zero stack headset and fox 36 van, I measure the top tube length center to center at ~22.9" - 23". I have about another inch of seat post exposed vs my Endorphin frame (shorter seat tube).

  93. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by VanGor44 View Post
    ...So my Chili came yesterday...and by some same strange coincidence....so did I. Here's another white one which will hopefully make your list, K.

    ...and for all those about to ask, 2012 Marzo 66 EVO, which I custom painted myself, paint used PPG DCC 9300 for anyone who cares.
    Holy Crap. That is bad to the bone VanGor. Love, love the painted, Knolly-stickered lowers.
    I will cause thee to ride upon the high places of the earth...
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  94. #194
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I LOVE the way my bike turned out and was surprised that the Knomers didn't ogle over it like the chicas do.
    I saw your build list but I don't think I ever saw a picture of yours. I guess I respond more to visual stimulation.

    Sounds like a rockin' build. How'd the sizing end up working for you? I know you had a lot of questions.
    Last edited by KRob; 06-27-2012 at 04:39 PM.
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    www.stuckinthespokes.com

  95. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by VanGor44 View Post
    ...So my Chili came yesterday...and by some same strange coincidence....so did I. Here's another white one which will hopefully make your list, K.

    ...and for all those about to ask, 2012 Marzo 66 EVO, which I custom painted myself, paint used PPG DCC 9300 for anyone who cares.
    looks awesome. loving the white and black. think once these things hit the shops in greater numbers it'll be time for my wife to get a small as an upgrade from her current ride.

    mine's on its way, am chomping at the bit for it

  96. #196
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    actually, so many nice looking builds on here it's hard to comment on them all individually. happy to hear guys are loving the ride as much as the looks.

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    actually, so many nice looking builds on here it's hard to comment on them all individually. happy to hear guys are loving the ride as much as the looks.
    First ride this weekend...I'll be spending alot of initial time dialing in the suspension..I have a few pages from Noel regarding ideal CCDB-A setup..stage two, since I'm coming straight from a MOJO HD... and all the parts on the chili were transferred from it...full comparison between the two as promised.

  98. #198
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    Ok I will play too. I built mine up last weekend and can't wait to hit the trails with my Chili.



    My build:
    Frame: 2012 Knolly Chilcotin, Blue, Medium
    Fork: 2013 Fox 36 160mm RC2 Talas
    Shock: CCDB Air
    Rims: Mavic 819
    Hubs: Hadley
    Tires: Schwable Hans Dampf; Front: Trailstar, Rear: Pacestar
    Headset: Chris King Inset Model 5
    Handlebars: ODI Flightcontrol 750 mm
    Stem: ODI Flightcontrol 70mm
    Grips: ODI SDG Lock-on
    Brakes: 2012 Formula The ONE
    Shifters: Sram X0
    Rear Derailuer: Sram X0 Type 2, medium cage
    Crankset: Truvativ Hammerschmidt AM 170mm
    Bottom Bracket: Hammerschmidt AM
    Seatpost: Rockshox Reverb 125mm travel, 380mm long
    Seat: SDG Bel Air Ti
    pedals: VP Components
    Chain: KMC X10 SL-Ti
    Cassette: Sram 1070 11-36

    33.75 lbs with tubes, couldn't get the Hans Dampf to seat tubeless straight out of the box. I think its a very good weight considering the Hammerschmidt and Reverb post.
    Last edited by SOCAL_STINKY; 06-27-2012 at 09:13 PM.

  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by SOCAL_STINKY View Post
    Ok I will play too. I built mine up last weekend and can't wait to hit the trails with my Chili.



    My build:
    Frame: 2012 Knolly Chilcotin, Blue, Medium
    Fork: 2013 Fox 36 160mm RC2 Talas
    Shock: CCDB Air
    Rims: Mavic 819
    Hubs: Hadley
    Tires: Schwable Hans Dampf; Front: Trailstar, Rear: Pacestar
    Headset: Chris King Inset Model 5
    Handlebars: ODI Flightcontrol 750 mm
    Stem: ODI Flightcontrol 70mm
    Grips: ODI SDG Lock-on
    Brakes: 2012 Formula The ONE
    Shifters: Sram X0
    Rear Derailuer: Sram X0 Type 2, medium cage
    Crankset: Truvativ Hammerschmidt AM 170mm
    Bottom Bracket: Hammerschmidt AM
    Seatpost: Rockshox Reverb 125mm travel, 380mm long
    Seat: SDG Bel Air Ti
    pedals: VP Components
    Chain: KMC X10 SL-Ti
    Cassette: Sram 1070 11-36

    33.75 lbs with tubes, couldn't get the Hans Dampf to seat tubeless straight out of the box. I think its a very good weight considering the Hammerschmidt.
    how tall are you?

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    So I've been purposely avoiding this thread since the new builds have been popping up so as not to get my "I-gotta-have-a-new-bike" juices going.

    Slow day at work and I made the mistake of opening it up.

    Dang! Now I have a bad case of the Chills.

    Ranking favorite builds:

    Madafaka: No two ways to say it---- That is Bad A**!

    Rock Dude with the blue accents, Woodyak with the Gold accents and tiSS'er's are a close second. Lovin' the Raw. THe orange accents on dulyber's Raw also rocks.

    I've loved G-Air's Blue chili since he first posted it up several months ago... but at 29 lbs pfarrell's white on blue may have one-upped you a bit. That's just stupid sick.

    Then FNG's all white beauty is right in there too. Wow.

    Some nice builds.
    And the rest of us are chopped liver? 3 chilcotins on our weekend ride. 2 blacks and my raw.

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