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Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread

356K views 1K replies 204 participants last post by  MarkMass 
#1 ·
I guess now is the right time to start a new thread...
 
#739 · (Edited)
What you are touching on is the single biggest difference I've found between the Endorphin and Chilcotin. The Endorphin definitely has a bit of a rearward weight bias which I think is due to the seat angle if you run a substantial amount of seatpost exposed. I do a lot of climbing and slower speed technical riding and at times I would notice how far back on the bike I was positioned. It never really bothered me, just something I noticed. To me the geometry on the Chilcotin is just more aggressive. Weight is a bit more centered which leads to a far more comfortable climbing position in my experience (3k foot steady climbs and lots of technical riding with ledge ups). It also rewards an aggressive rider on the downhills as it's a bit easier to get weight on the front wheel for cornering traction. Fortunately that forward bias hasn't hurt the ability to get the front wheel up at all for technical climbing. It actually seems just as composed even without dialing travel down on the fork the way I used to on the Endorphin. I used to climb around 140mm but don't drop the fork at all from 160mm now and am actually ditching the UTurn internals for fixed 170mm soon.
 
#756 ·
I notice a number of you use the Six C cranks, which would would save me 400g over what I am using. :)

Any feedback on these cranks would be appreciated, thanks.
I've had mine for 2 seasons now. No problems despite tons of riding with rock gardens, lift assist, etc. They are plenty stiff and pretty much set and forget. More gear should be like this.
 
#757 · (Edited)
I just had a custom Marzocchi Roco Air TST built from scratch for me meant to optimize the Endorphin's particular linkage and suspension design. It was built by Joe at BikeCo in Lake Forest, CA. He is Brian Lopes' current mechanic and has been for years. He is probably the most knowledgeable Marz mechanic on the planet. First ride today. Super plush, but very active while climbing. I cleaned a climb I rarely make, but we are still dialing in the design. This could be very, very good. Don't get me wrong, the CTD worked very well and is probably already optimized for the Endo - but I have access to this service, so let's see what happens.

Oooops - posted this in the wrong thread.
 
#758 ·
/agree with woodyak

I think that if you take care of the cranks, they will outlast aluminum. The current model year has thicker tabs around the spider. Make sure you use the little metal bits to attach the chainring. Also, when you get a chip, you should always repair it. If your shoe wears the edge, you should repair it. Repairs are easy, you can find out all you need from the canoe/kayak people (i.e. websites), as they are always slamming their carbon fiber kayaks into sharp rocks.

If you don't take care of it, I would think it will have a 5 yr life expectancy anyway, and by then there will be cranks made out of unobtainium aerogels at half the weight and twice the price.

FWIW, I bought a second pair for my Podium mkII
 
#762 ·
I´ve been attending this forum for quite a while and now i´m happy to be part of this community by having finished my new rig.
thanks to all that helped me realizing this dream, piotr at beastie bikes, rainer at hibike and his team.

Bike setup:
* Frame Size & Color: large black
* Rear Shock: ccdba
* Fork: rs lyrik solo air rc2dh
* Brakes: avid code, front 203mm rotors, back 185mm
* Shifter: deore xt
* Cranks: rf atlas stealth
* Bottom Bracket: reset racing
* Rear Derailleur: deore xt
* Pedals: dmr vault brendog signature
* Stem: easton haven 50mm
* Handlebar: rf atlas stealth
* Seatpost: thomson elite
* Seatclamp: chromag
* Saddle: fizik tundra
* Cassette: shimano xt
* Headset: reset racing konan
* Grips: oury with green odi clamps
* Front Tire: maxxis minion
* Front Rim: notubes ztr flow
* Front Hub: tune king mk
* Rear Tire: maxxis high roller
* Rear Rim: notubes ztr flow
* Rear Hub: tune kong mk
 

Attachments

#767 ·
Finished her up. Cant wait to ride her, its great snow is almost gone. :)













Bike setup: 32.72 LBS

* Frame Size & Color: LG Black
* Rear Shock:Fox Van RC- 650 SPring
* Fork: Fox Talas 100-160
* Brakes: Hayes Prime Expert
* Shifter: SRAM X9 2x10 Speed
* Cranks: Race Face Evolve
* Chainguide: MRP 2X
* Rear Derailleur: SRAM X9 Medium Cage
* Pedals: Answer Rove FR
* Stem: Race Face Evolve 70mm
* Handlebar: Answer Pro Taper 2" Rise
* Seatpost: Botranger Elite
* Saddle: WTB Speed V
* Cassette: SRAM PG-1050
* Headset: Cane Creek 40 Inset
* Grips: Lizard Skins Moab
* Front Tire: WTB Bronson 2.3
* Front Rim: SunRingle Charger Pro
* Rear Tire: WTB Bronson 2.1
* Rear Rim: SunRingle Charger Pro

Set Up Tubeless with stans.

*Rider Setup
*Weight: 205 geared
*Height: 5'11"
 
#770 ·
* Rear Shock:Fox Van RC- 650 SPring

*Rider Setup
*Weight: 205 geared
That's a hefty spring for the Chili's progressive suspension. A 650 may work for you but if you can't get full travel and have to set the rebound to an extreme to get is slow enough then I would look at a less stiff spring.

From: Mountain Bike Spring Rate Calculator

Correction For Suspension Progression

Anything plus or minus (±) 7% can be ignored.
Rising Rate (7% - 15%): subtract 50 lbs.
Extreme Rising Rate - rare (15% - 25%): subtract 100 lbs.
Falling Rate (7% - 15%): add 50 lbs.
Extreme Falling Rate - common (15% - 25%): add 100 lbs.

Or, simply ride with the calculated spring rate and let personal preferences make your final determination.
Obviously, you know what you like but I weigh around the same and I use a 500 lbs spring on an Avy'd VanRC, though 550 would probably work too.
 
#768 ·
Good looking build. Thanks for posting that up. Did you have any trouble getting the MRP 2x set up? I've talked to a couple of people that say they are a little finicky if not set up just right.

I've followed the instructions and advice from folks who've set up a few of these on my build but won't know for sure how it's working until I finish building it.
 
#784 ·
No prob. I think that the original "tacos" formed a taco shape around the sprocket bottom; but when they would bend they would contact the sprocket and make things worse. The form changed to be more functional and less like a taco; but the name remained.
 
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