i own an Endo 2010: the pedaling position is great...i always had a sort of feeling that it is a little 'shifted' on the rear wheel...maybe cos of th short chainstain...but it is only an my personal opinion.... am i wrong ???...do Chili give that to someone???
What you are touching on is the single biggest difference I've found between the Endorphin and Chilcotin. The Endorphin definitely has a bit of a rearward weight bias which I think is due to the seat angle if you run a substantial amount of seatpost exposed. I do a lot of climbing and slower speed technical riding and at times I would notice how far back on the bike I was positioned. It never really bothered me, just something I noticed. To me the geometry on the Chilcotin is just more aggressive. Weight is a bit more centered which leads to a far more comfortable climbing position in my experience (3k foot steady climbs and lots of technical riding with ledge ups). It also rewards an aggressive rider on the downhills as it's a bit easier to get weight on the front wheel for cornering traction. Fortunately that forward bias hasn't hurt the ability to get the front wheel up at all for technical climbing. It actually seems just as composed even without dialing travel down on the fork the way I used to on the Endorphin. I used to climb around 140mm but don't drop the fork at all from 160mm now and am actually ditching the UTurn internals for fixed 170mm soon.
Yeah, I think it makes the biggest difference for seated climbing, it's just a much better pedal position. When you're out of the saddle there is a subtle difference but less noticeable.
do you know which headset (with reducers from 1.5 to 1 1/8) has the higher lower cup ??(to increase the total height of the fork and slack a little bit the HA)
I've had mine for 2 seasons now. No problems despite tons of riding with rock gardens, lift assist, etc. They are plenty stiff and pretty much set and forget. More gear should be like this.
I just had a custom Marzocchi Roco Air TST built from scratch for me meant to optimize the Endorphin's particular linkage and suspension design. It was built by Joe at BikeCo in Lake Forest, CA. He is Brian Lopes' current mechanic and has been for years. He is probably the most knowledgeable Marz mechanic on the planet. First ride today. Super plush, but very active while climbing. I cleaned a climb I rarely make, but we are still dialing in the design. This could be very, very good. Don't get me wrong, the CTD worked very well and is probably already optimized for the Endo - but I have access to this service, so let's see what happens.
I think that if you take care of the cranks, they will outlast aluminum. The current model year has thicker tabs around the spider. Make sure you use the little metal bits to attach the chainring. Also, when you get a chip, you should always repair it. If your shoe wears the edge, you should repair it. Repairs are easy, you can find out all you need from the canoe/kayak people (i.e. websites), as they are always slamming their carbon fiber kayaks into sharp rocks.
If you don't take care of it, I would think it will have a 5 yr life expectancy anyway, and by then there will be cranks made out of unobtainium aerogels at half the weight and twice the price.
I´ve been attending this forum for quite a while and now i´m happy to be part of this community by having finished my new rig.
thanks to all that helped me realizing this dream, piotr at beastie bikes, rainer at hibike and his team.
Bike setup:
* Frame Size & Color: large black
* Rear Shock: ccdba
* Fork: rs lyrik solo air rc2dh
* Brakes: avid code, front 203mm rotors, back 185mm
* Shifter: deore xt
* Cranks: rf atlas stealth
* Bottom Bracket: reset racing
* Rear Derailleur: deore xt
* Pedals: dmr vault brendog signature
* Stem: easton haven 50mm
* Handlebar: rf atlas stealth
* Seatpost: thomson elite
* Seatclamp: chromag
* Saddle: fizik tundra
* Cassette: shimano xt
* Headset: reset racing konan
* Grips: oury with green odi clamps
* Front Tire: maxxis minion
* Front Rim: notubes ztr flow
* Front Hub: tune king mk
* Rear Tire: maxxis high roller
* Rear Rim: notubes ztr flow
* Rear Hub: tune kong mk
hi. thanks for the feedback.
no, i will not be running a bash unless i'm forced to. i think this way it has a cleaner look and as i didn't run a bash on my old bike, i don't think it will be necessary now.
what is a taco?
That's a hefty spring for the Chili's progressive suspension. A 650 may work for you but if you can't get full travel and have to set the rebound to an extreme to get is slow enough then I would look at a less stiff spring.
Good looking build. Thanks for posting that up. Did you have any trouble getting the MRP 2x set up? I've talked to a couple of people that say they are a little finicky if not set up just right.
I've followed the instructions and advice from folks who've set up a few of these on my build but won't know for sure how it's working until I finish building it.
Good looking build. Thanks for posting that up. Did you have any trouble getting the MRP 2x set up? I've talked to a couple of people that say they are a little finicky if not set up just right.
Yeah I'm 215 RTR and Craig at Avy told me to use a 500. I'm pretty sure I'm on the edge though and could possibly use a 550 with very little preload, but I just stuck with the 500.
A very nice build. Slowly piecing my black knolly together as well, hopefully will be done in a few weeks and will post pics. I prefer the black rims - the decals are a bit noisy. But all comes down to personal taste.
Am definitely going to give em a call tomorrow so I can get this out to the trails already. Its killing me to just see it there in my garage. theres only so much fondiling I can do.
No prob. I think that the original "tacos" formed a taco shape around the sprocket bottom; but when they would bend they would contact the sprocket and make things worse. The form changed to be more functional and less like a taco; but the name remained.
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