• 07-13-2015
    alfredo
    2 years here and i reduced sag a bit to 26/27% as i prefer a plush feeling.
  • 08-10-2015
    q232
    I am apologize for my question. Anyone try to use Chili with 27.5 wheels? Which tires is good?
  • 09-15-2015
    Bentley78
    9 Attachment(s)
    Finally getting around to this
    I had my bike built by Wrench Science just before the winter. I have had an awesome season on it so far. It rips! :thumbsup: I went a bit crazy on the kit, and am glad I did! Here's the spec:
    Knolly Chilcotin with CCDB
    Fox float 36
    enve M70 wheels with Chris King hubs
    Chris King headset
    RF atlas stem
    Enve dh bar
    XTR shifter
    XTR trail brakes and rotors
    Rockshox reverb dropper post
    WTB rocket V SLT seat
    RF SIXC cranks
    XTR cassette 1x11
    XTR rear derailer
    XTR chain
    Twenty 6 predator pedals
    Hans Dempf tires
  • 09-16-2015
    Jerelk
    Great looking!
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bentley78 View Post
    I had my bike built by Wrench Science just before the winter. I have had an awesome season on it so far. It rips! :thumbsup: I went a bit crazy on the kit, and am glad I did! Here's the spec:
    Knolly Chilcotin with CCDB
    Fox float 36
    enve M70 wheels with Chris King hubs
    Chris King headset
    RF atlas stem
    Enve dh bar
    XTR shifter
    XTR trail brakes and rotors
    Rockshox reverb dropper post
    WTB rocket V SLT seat
    RF SIXC cranks
    XTR cassette 1x11
    XTR rear derailer
    XTR chain
    Twenty 6 predator pedals
    Hans Dempf tires

    This green Chili with green type envo rims is looking very nice!
  • 09-28-2015
    c.o.d51
    1 Attachment(s)
    I just can't get enough of this thing! Just built up fresh wheels, Flows on Hadley's with super comp spokes and ProLock aluminum nipples. They were built by one incredible wheel builder too. Wowza.

    Attachment 1018424
  • 09-28-2015
    BC
    Great builds in here.Chilcotin. .. best trail bike ever. I just put a fox 180 VAN on mine after punching a hole in my old 36 lowers. I love the higher bb height. That combined with ccdb coil out back, = phenomenal techy climbing.
  • 09-29-2015
    FattigBalle
    Just got the Chilcotin with the db air. Noticed there is a bit extra resistance at one point in the travel, at about 25%. The travel goes very smooth after this point. Any similar experiences or is this normal?
  • 09-29-2015
    w8kbrder
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by cecald View Post
    Ah geez thanks for that. I never thought that's what they were included for. I'll be sticking with zip ties - cheers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    I need some of those clips! If youre not going to use them, any chance youd send them to me?
  • 09-30-2015
    cecald
    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by w8kbrder View Post
    I need some of those clips! If youre not going to use them, any chance youd send them to me?

    Hey sorry - I put them on there and rode it like that on a trip to Madeira and they held fine. So now I'm just going to use them, and replace in case they ever do actually fall off. Maybe ask knolly or look on Ali-express to see if they have got spares?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 09-30-2015
    c.o.d51
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by w8kbrder View Post
    I need some of those clips! If youre not going to use them, any chance youd send them to me?

    Most shops will have 'em lying around. Fwiw, zip ties are quite a bit more durable and hold cables much better. You can also avoid the sharp, cut edges if you twist off the excess cable with a vice-grip.
  • 10-03-2015
    syntheticreality
    Hi Guys,

    I am close to pulling the trigger on one of these and would just like some sizing advice from other owners. I am 5'11" with a 34.4" true inseam (not pants). For a while, I rode large frames, but now I have a medium Foes Mutz, a medium Lenz lunchbox, and a medium Surly Instigator 2.0. I also felt good on my medium On One Codeine (for sale) and I felt okay on my Large On One Fatty (sold) as well as my large Canfield Nimble 9 (sold). As always, I am right on the cusp of medium and large frame sizes here, but I am leaning toward a medium due to my short torso. The stack on both frame sizes is the same, so it's all about the reach and ETT at this point. I see a lot of 5'11" guys on larges, but they all have a shorter inseam than me which means a longer torso. I'd love some opinions on my fit.
  • 10-03-2015
    Jtravnh
    Large with 50mm stem. I rode medium Chilcotin for 2 years then purchased a large frame the summer and couldn't be happier. 5 10.5". 32 inseam.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  • 10-03-2015
    Pilsner1
    I think you'd fit the large better. I'm 5' 10" on a large.
  • 10-03-2015
    mayha
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by syntheticreality View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I am close to pulling the trigger on one of these and would just like some sizing advice from other owners. I am 5'11" with a 34.4" true inseam (not pants). For a while, I rode large frames, but now I have a medium Foes Mutz, a medium Lenz lunchbox, and a medium Surly Instigator 2.0. I also felt good on my medium On One Codeine (for sale) and I felt okay on my Large On One Fatty (sold) as well as my large Canfield Nimble 9 (sold). As always, I am right on the cusp of medium and large frame sizes here, but I am leaning toward a medium due to my short torso. The stack on both frame sizes is the same, so it's all about the reach and ETT at this point. I see a lot of 5'11" guys on larges, but they all have a shorter inseam than me which means a longer torso. I'd love some opinions on my fit.

    Large will fit you fine....Enjoy this "INCREDIBLE" bike!!!
  • 10-05-2015
    c.o.d51
    Yep, definitely get the large. I'm 5'10" with a 33" inseam on a large with 50mm stem and a 5" dropper that's still up an inch and a half from the seat clamp. I had the same debate, and I'm so happy I went with the large.
  • 10-05-2015
    Sleevem1
    I would go with the large as well. I'm 5' 11" with a 34" inseam. I ride a med Chili and I have my Thompson seat post maxed out on climbs.
  • 01-31-2016
    graypaw
    Hello.
    A question, has someone tried monarch plus debonair?
    Is the Mid reboot and compression tune the best?
    regular or extra can volume?

    I guess Mid tune and regular can volume is the best choice

    Thanks!
  • 02-01-2016
    mayha
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bentley78 View Post
    I had my bike built by Wrench Science just before the winter. I have had an awesome season on it so far. It rips! :thumbsup: I went a bit crazy on the kit, and am glad I did! Here's the spec:
    Knolly Chilcotin with CCDB
    Fox float 36
    enve M70 wheels with Chris King hubs
    Chris King headset
    RF atlas stem
    Enve dh bar
    XTR shifter
    XTR trail brakes and rotors
    Rockshox reverb dropper post
    WTB rocket V SLT seat
    RF SIXC cranks
    XTR cassette 1x11
    XTR rear derailer
    XTR chain
    Twenty 6 predator pedals
    Hans Dempf tires

    Quite the build...looks great!!! How are you making out with the CINCH Race Face BB? I just purchased the Sixc cranks as well but haven't committed to the BB because if all the poor reviews on reliability. Not sure there are many options though...
  • 03-09-2016
    bensawyer
    Long time reader, first time poster. I need some input in to how your Chili feels in the "carpark". I've just had my CCDB come back from a full (expensive) service after it felt super odd. Sitting on the bike in my living room it feels jerky as I cycle through the shock. What are you guys feeling with the same shock? Does it feel plush? I am 180lbs running around 30% sag. I can get it to feel plush but then I bottom out on absolutely everything. I appreciate any feedback. thanks.
  • 03-09-2016
    BikeLust
    Have you set it up with the base tune settings on cane creek website? If so and it still feels jerky, try removing the rear wheel and shock. Cycle the rear triangle through its travel. Still not smooth? If so, time to service of replace the bearings. If it's smooth, then there is still an issue with the shock. Possible it needs break in, but mine was smooth from day 1. One last thing you could try is some stanchion lube on the shock shaft.
  • 03-09-2016
    Skrool
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bensawyer View Post
    Long time reader, first time poster. I need some input in to how your Chili feels in the "carpark". I've just had my CCDB come back from a full (expensive) service after it felt super odd. Sitting on the bike in my living room it feels jerky as I cycle through the shock. What are you guys feeling with the same shock? Does it feel plush? I am 180lbs running around 30% sag. I can get it to feel plush but then I bottom out on absolutely everything. I appreciate any feedback. thanks.


    Should be smooth all the way through. On mine, only the initial 2 or 3 mm of travel slightly sticks...but that's just the dust wiper and seal which is normal. You shouldn't have even the slightest hang up in the shock anywhere in the travel. It's hard to know what you mean by 'jerky'..?

    If it's bottoming out on everything even while set up @ 30% sag, then something doesn't sound right. I'd have thought that the guys doing the shock-tune / service would have told you if something was up with it. Are they reputable? Was it worse before you serviced it? Is it better now after being serviced or is it the same issue?

    Whatever the case, the shock travel on the Chili should be super smooth with no hang ups or sticky points whatsoever. I myself have mine set up with a bit more rebound dampning than most. Never had any stiction issues whatsoever from day one. Check all your linkage points, make sure they are all functioning properly.
  • 03-09-2016
    G-AIR
    Not sure about jerky but the ccdba i have had in the past never felt great in the garage. They always felt a bit sticky and notchy through the travel. It might also take some time to break in from the rebuild.

    It never felt bad on the trail.



    Quote:

    Originally Posted by bensawyer View Post
    Long time reader, first time poster. I need some input in to how your Chili feels in the "carpark". I've just had my CCDB come back from a full (expensive) service after it felt super odd. Sitting on the bike in my living room it feels jerky as I cycle through the shock. What are you guys feeling with the same shock? Does it feel plush? I am 180lbs running around 30% sag. I can get it to feel plush but then I bottom out on absolutely everything. I appreciate any feedback. thanks.

  • 03-10-2016
    Muttonchops
    exactly what others have mentioned.

    try removing shock and cycling suspension - might be a bearing issue or perhaps bolts are over torqued. Once satisfied that linkages are moving smoothly - bolt on the shock and perhaps let air out to 50psi and cycle the shock - do you feel any notchiness - then go to full PSI and try again. I also believe that if you inflate the shock to somewhere around 100 and bounce on the bike - you can charge the negative air chamber and then inflate the shock to full PSI. I recall doing this before and it has helped with that initial notch that some describe in the first 5 mm of travel.

    The bottoming out is going to be resolved by bottom out tokens / spacers. I had 3/4 of one spacer in my shock at the end...having at times had 1 1/2...I eventually found a sweet spot that was a combination of the HSC and the spacers. I ran very little (1 -2 clicks) of LSC towards the end of my time on the CCDB. This was after chatting with Noel prior to the Whistler EWS and the feeling of harshness over high speed chunder. Running minimal LSC was a game changer for me. Perhaps evaluate how notchy / rough the shock feels with / without LSC - any difference?

    Although I described a notch / bump in the initial stroke...agree I didn't really notice it on the trail.

    Good luck - let us know
  • 03-10-2016
    006_007
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Muttonchops View Post
    exactly what others have mentioned.

    try removing shock and cycling suspension - might be a bearing issue or perhaps bolts are over torqued. Once satisfied that linkages are moving smoothly - bolt on the shock and perhaps let air out to 50psi and cycle the shock - do you feel any notchiness - then go to full PSI and try again. I also believe that if you inflate the shock to somewhere around 100 and bounce on the bike - you can charge the negative air chamber and then inflate the shock to full PSI. I recall doing this before and it has helped with that initial notch that some describe in the first 5 mm of travel.

    The bottoming out is going to be resolved by bottom out tokens / spacers. I had 3/4 of one spacer in my shock at the end...having at times had 1 1/2...I eventually found a sweet spot that was a combination of the HSC and the spacers. I ran very little (1 -2 clicks) of LSC towards the end of my time on the CCDB. This was after chatting with Noel prior to the Whistler EWS and the feeling of harshness over high speed chunder. Running minimal LSC was a game changer for me. Perhaps evaluate how notchy / rough the shock feels with / without LSC - any difference?

    Although I described a notch / bump in the initial stroke...agree I didn't really notice it on the trail.

    Good luck - let us know



    When you guys cycle yours through its travel with no shock, does it move freely (ie if you lift the back end up (without a wheel attached) and let go, will it come all the way down, or will it stop part way through?

    Mine has never returned down - if I cycle it manually it feels smooth, but it is stiff for sure.
  • 03-10-2016
    Muttonchops
    Mine would definitely go back to neutral under its own weight. There is some friction but its pretty minimal and once you overcome the static friction the moving friction is negligible if you consider the forces and leverage at play (imo)

    I am pretty sure I experienced what you describe - this was about 3yrs into owning the Chilly and it was about the time I first opened and greased the bearings and soon thereafter replaced them.
  • 03-10-2016
    bensawyer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Muttonchops View Post
    exactly what others have mentioned.

    try removing shock and cycling suspension - might be a bearing issue or perhaps bolts are over torqued. Once satisfied that linkages are moving smoothly - bolt on the shock and perhaps let air out to 50psi and cycle the shock - do you feel any notchiness - then go to full PSI and try again. I also believe that if you inflate the shock to somewhere around 100 and bounce on the bike - you can charge the negative air chamber and then inflate the shock to full PSI. I recall doing this before and it has helped with that initial notch that some describe in the first 5 mm of travel.

    The bottoming out is going to be resolved by bottom out tokens / spacers. I had 3/4 of one spacer in my shock at the end...having at times had 1 1/2...I eventually found a sweet spot that was a combination of the HSC and the spacers. I ran very little (1 -2 clicks) of LSC towards the end of my time on the CCDB. This was after chatting with Noel prior to the Whistler EWS and the feeling of harshness over high speed chunder. Running minimal LSC was a game changer for me. Perhaps evaluate how notchy / rough the shock feels with / without LSC - any difference?

    Although I described a notch / bump in the initial stroke...agree I didn't really notice it on the trail.

    Good luck - let us know



    Thanks for the valuable tips and insights. The shock feels amazing when it has, say, 50psi in it. Cycling through the travel there are no hangups or notchy-ness. Also without the shock on the bearings all feel smooth. It is good to know you guys are having similar feels in the carpark but not on the trail. I'll play with charging the negative chamber before filling to desired PSI and see how that goes.

    It was a reputable suspension repair shop in Vancouver, Suspension Werx. They mentioned a bunch of things that were up with the shock but seem to have taken care of them. They also installed a large volume air spacer which should aid in my bottoming issues. I admittedly haven't ridden the bike since the shock came back to me as it is winter here. But I am starting to get pumped for the upcoming season!

    As a side note, I recently received new rocker arms which have been built by Knolly to incorporate a M8 bolt through the shock eyelet instead of the standard M6. It seems as though it will add a considerable amount of strength. Hopefully I won't be going and bending any of the M8's!

    Thanks again guys.
  • 03-11-2016
    Muttonchops
    Yeagh dude - let us know how it goes.

    Heard nothing but good things about SW and I am sure they would sort you out if you had questions or issues. Do you live in Van - can you take the bike in to them?

    Since it was recently serviced it could well be some snug sneals that just need to be cycled and will break in after a ride or two...

    If you do live in Van - I am always down for a shore trip or Galby sesh and can loan you my CCDBA CS for comparison. I am in SEA
  • 03-11-2016
    mayha
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 006_007 View Post
    When you guys cycle yours through its travel with no shock, does it move freely (ie if you lift the back end up (without a wheel attached) and let go, will it come all the way down, or will it stop part way through?

    Mine has never returned down - if I cycle it manually it feels smooth, but it is stiff for sure.

    I just took my shock off to try this....It does not stop, in fact it would slam if I let it.

    @ Bensawyer, what's with the 8mm bolt set up? I NEED THIS!!!! I've gone through too many bolts. Even after I upgraded to 3D rockers and a Woodie on it.
  • 03-11-2016
    006_007
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    I just took my shock off to try this....It does not stop, in fact it would slam if I let it.

    @ Bensawyer, what's with the 8mm bolt set up? I NEED THIS!!!! I've gone through too many bolts. Even after I upgraded to 3D rockers and a Woodie on it.

    hmmm, the only way mine will move down on its own is if I loosen the bolts at the joints with the igus bushings at the top of the horseshoe link. So the bearings are for sure ok, but I appear to be getting huge resistance there.
  • 03-12-2016
    bensawyer
    Mayha,
    From what I was told, Knolly made a few of these new rocker arms for some of their team riders. I guess I was just in the right place at the right time to get the goods! It is a significant upgrade. Get in touch with Knolly directly and see if they have anymore or if it's something they are thinking about doing. I'm sure they could sell butt-loads of them.
  • 04-08-2016
    melih
    1 Attachment(s)
    Chilcotin
    That is my Chilcotin
    Medium Size
    RS Pike 160mm
    CC Inline
    ChrisKing hubs
    Flowrider Carbonrims
    RS Reverb
    Answer protaper Carbon & attac
    Odi Ruffin grips
    Shimano XT Brakes&shifting
    Raceface Turbine cranks & rockring
    Attachment 1062584
  • 04-08-2016
    mayha
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by melih View Post
    That is my Chilcotin
    Medium Size
    RS Pike 160mm
    CC Inline
    ChrisKing hubs
    Flowrider Carbonrims
    RS Reverb
    Answer protaper Carbon & attac
    Odi Ruffin grips
    Shimano XT Brakes&shifting
    Raceface Turbine cranks & rockring
    Attachment 1062584

    That has to be the best Chilcotin pic I've seen!!!
  • 04-08-2016
    cecald
    Agreed - great lighting


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 05-21-2016
    syntheticreality
    Hi guys,

    A follow up is overdue. I took the recommendations and got a large. I wouldn't have it any other way.



    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  • 05-21-2016
    Big B
    Looks awesome! Love the color scheme.
  • 06-09-2016
    niccolope
    quick fit question for you guys. im in the 5'10 medium / large inbetweener club. 31" inseam slightly longer torso went with the large. got a 35mm stem, 20 mm rise on the bar, 20mm of spacers, and the fork set to 170. feels pretty good for everything in attack position even though it's a tad long in reach.

    hit some real steeps for the first time and had a super hard time keeping my weight off the front end. when i tried to hang off the back i got so stretched i could only really straight line. thinking about bumping up the rise on the bar and / or pushing the fox 36 to 180 to compensate.

    what do you guys think?

    only issue i've run into so far. otherwise an incredible bike! the ccdba / 36 / 4x linkage combo is soooo plush. rips corners, floats over chunky stuff, and climbs extremely well. puts power down like a beast with the climb switch too. love it!







  • 06-09-2016
    mayha
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niccolope View Post
    quick fit question for you guys. im in the 5'10 medium / large inbetweener club. 31" inseam slightly longer torso went with the large. got a 35mm stem, 20 mm rise on the bar, 20mm of spacers, and the fork set to 170. feels pretty good for everything in attack position even though it's a tad long in reach.

    hit some real steeps for the first time and had a super hard time keeping my weight off the front end. when i tried to hang off the back i got so stretched i could only really straight line. thinking about bumping up the rise on the bar and / or pushing the fox 36 to 180 to compensate.

    what do you guys think?

    only issue i've run into so far. otherwise an incredible bike! the ccdba / 36 / 4x linkage combo is soooo plush. rips corners, floats over chunky stuff, and climbs extremely well. puts power down like a beast with the climb switch too. love it!


    The bike looks incredible! And nice job with the stealth routing. It's strange that you feel too much over the front end while feeling too stretched. Seems like an opposition....If you attack low and centered you should feel invincible on this rig with your set up.

    Good luck! The bikes' a ripper
  • 06-09-2016
    niccolope
    oh sorry if it was unclear. basically to get low enough to feel centered for the steeps i was hitting the saddle so i tried hanging off the back. (edit: on mediums i'm behind the saddle by default) but when i did it made the long reach reallllly long since i'm shifting my body further away from the bars.

    other two things i thought to try.. some extra air in the fork for a higher ride height and completely slamming the seatpost.

    it's a beaut for sure! woo
  • 06-10-2016
    CharacterZero
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by niccolope View Post
    oh sorry if it was unclear. basically to get low enough to feel centered for the steeps i was hitting the saddle so i tried hanging off the back. (edit: on mediums i'm behind the saddle by default) but when i did it made the long reach reallllly long since i'm shifting my body further away from the bars.

    other two things i thought to try.. some extra air in the fork for a higher ride height and completely slamming the seatpost.

    it's a beaut for sure! woo

    I'm running a 150mm dropper and have a little less post showing - and if it is getting really steep, I find slamming the dropper the extra 1" allows that extra bit of confidence.
    And yes, not having too much squish up front is a game changer on the steeps. I recently swapped from an undersprung air to a slightly oversprung coil and it is much better.

    Agreed with mayha though, get centered and off the brakes and you'll be invincible.
  • 06-10-2016
    Muttonchops
    Yeagh. Agree with these dudes. It might also be that you have too LITTLE sag in the shock...so it is the balance between the front / back of the bike you should try find...it might also be the rebound on the rear is too fast...giving you a feeling that you are being pitched forward (and therefore hanging off the back).

    Focus on getting the bike balanced (front / back) - get the sag right on both and try match the compression / rebound and then tweak them to preference.

    Your Low Speed Compression will affect how the fork reacts on steep sections...e.g. if I am riding a slow / tech / steep trail I will increase the LSC to get the fork to be a little firmer / stay a little higher.

    I think 170 is plenty fork and 180 will be too much.

    Have fun - let us know how it goes.

    Have fun m
  • 06-10-2016
    syntheticreality
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Muttonchops View Post

    I think 170 is plenty fork and 180 will be too much.

    Granted my bike is set up park biased, but I run 180. I have run 180 on XC trails an I am surprised by how well it handles everything, including the tough climbs. On the bike's first ride, I was very shocked when I cleaned technical, steep climbs I had never cleaned before even with the 180 fork.
  • 06-10-2016
    niccolope
    Awesome! Thanks for all the great advice. Gonna slam the dropper and adjust the suspension before tinkering with anything else.

    I think muttons is right about the problem stemming from a combination of shock and fork settings. There was clearly a lack of air and LSC in the fork for the steeps. The brake dive was pretty bad. My fault had just fiddled with that before the ride. But I also like the idea of more rebound damping in the rear. I know the CCDBA is still a ways off from being dialed. Had one before and know how good it feels when it's perfect.

    Been sick the past week so I've been dwelling on it without getting to test. Should be riding again soon. I'll let you guys know how it goes!
  • 06-10-2016
    F-Bomb
    Agree on the 150mm seatpost dropper. I am 5'9" and enjoy getting the seat out way of the way on the Chilcotin.
  • 06-13-2016
    niccolope
    Got another ride in on the same trail and had a much, much better time.

    Ended up completely slamming the seatpost, resetting the fork to the factory tune (+10psi, +4-5 clicks LSC, -2 rebound), softening up the CCDBA (-1 LSC, -2 LSR), and putting an extra 5 mm spacer under the bars.

    The suspension tweaks made a huge difference. The fork stayed up in the travel a lot better on the steeps and the DB was glued to the ground. Combined with the saddle slammed and out of the way I was able to manipulate my position and the bike like I normally would. No issue with brake dive either even though I was going way faster and using them in strong bursts compared to dragging when I was feeling uncomfortable. The extra spacer under the bars wasn't really needed with the suspension changed.

    Ended up getting pretty loose on a few sections with all the extra confidence haha. The Chili rolled out of all of it and kept me upright on a few sketchy drifts :) Not surprisingly the bike did everything better with the adjustments. Bunny hopping felt more balanced, weighting the outside pedal to rail turns and berms was easier, pumping more controlled, the rock crawler climbing traction.. basically doing everything the Chili should be doing.

    Still needs more tweaks but I'm super stoked. Was worried for a minute the frame was just too big. Woo! Thanks for the help
  • 09-15-2016
    cecald
    Has anyone put the 11/6 on their chilcotin? Or maybe thinking about the new CC coil??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 09-30-2016
    tuskaloosa
    Btw did the newer Chilli's come with stealth routing for the dropper or Mayha did you drill the frame?
  • 09-30-2016
    CharacterZero
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tuskaloosa View Post
    Btw did the newer Chilli's come with stealth routing for the dropper or Mayha did you drill the frame?

    Hey Tuskaloosa, check the thread over here, since we all had to drill'm (no internal at the time):
    Drilling Chilcotin seat tube for stealth dropper - anyone done it?- Mtbr.com
  • 09-30-2016
    dlopez0811
    fyi, drilling will void warranty

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk
  • 09-30-2016
    mayha
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by dlopez0811 View Post
    fyi, drilling will void warranty

    Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

    There is no warranty at this point......I've drilled two Chilcotin's (mine and my brothers) and it's very simple. It's been a couple of years of hard riding and 20 foot drops.

    Also, I've been much happier with the 9Point8 than the RF Turbine...
  • 10-05-2016
    tuskaloosa
    Thanks CZ
  • 11-02-2016
    MarkMass
    I need to send my DB Air CS to Cane Creek in for service, but they're not responding to emails and their vmail is full.. Hmmm.. :confused:

    I picked up a Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair to use while I figure out how /where to get my shock serviced. I'm looking forward to taking it out for my first ride this weekend.

    Rock Shox Monarch Plus RC3 DebonAir by markmass, on Flickr
  • 11-06-2016
    MarkMass
    The Monarch Plus was awesome! :) The mid/trail and high compression settings were great for pedaling and the low/open smoothed my DH runs and landings. The Chili was super active and I was popping off of stuff whenever possible. Getting to the compression lever was a lot more intuitive than with the CC. I appreciate the tunability (sp!) of the DBAirCS, but I want to have fun riding and not get hung up on setup.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MarkMass View Post
    I picked up a Monarch Plus RC3 Debonair to use while I figure out how /where to get my shock serviced. I'm looking forward to taking it out for my first ride this weekend.

  • 11-12-2016
    MarkMass
    The Monarch Plus lasted half way through my 2nd ride before getting stuck down. This is so lame. Demo Forest was soooo sweet today and I was pushing my Chilcotin out. :mad:


    Rock Shox Monarch+ Debonair stuck-down after 2 rides by markmass, on Flickr

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MarkMass View Post
    The Monarch Plus was awesome! :) The mid/trail and high compression settings were great for pedaling and the low/open smoothed my DH runs and landings. The Chili was super active and I was popping off of stuff whenever possible. Getting to the compression lever was a lot more intuitive than with the CC. I appreciate the tunability (sp!) of the DBAirCS, but I want to have fun riding and not get hung up on setup.

  • 11-13-2016
    bikeboardorblade
    Rode Demo for the first time after Sea Weasel last year. Only made it to the flow trail, but tons of fun. Definitely going back!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 06-03-2017
    MarkMass
    I've been updating things so it's not an all metal build anymore:

    - Chromag BZA bar & stem (inspiration from drewdude) w/ Chromag Squarewave grips
    - Chromag Moon Ti saddle
    - SRAM Roam 60 wheelset w/ Geax Goma 2.4 rubber
    - RaceFace NextSL G4 crankset w/ 32t RF NW ring
    - Fox Transfer 150mm dropper (external) w/ Wolftooth remote


    Knolly Chilcotin by markmass, on Flickr

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MarkMass View Post
    Another new large black Chilcotin. I call this the all metal build (vs my Mojo SL and Blur LTc). I haven't taken it out on the trails, but it's feeling really good pedaling around my parking lot and popping off the speed bumps. :)

    Knolly chilcotin by markmass, on Flickr