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  1. #451
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    haha thats a cool bike ! You should attach a neon light strip on it lol

  2. #452
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    New Carbon Wheels from Citec

    If your thinking of getting some carbon wheels it might be worth checking these out, only 1350g pair

    MTB Ascender S CARBON | CITEC® - Systemlaufräder und Scheibenräder | * * * * * * * * * * * ** * * * * *

  3. #453
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    Rear shock shipped today. Either gonna be here by friday but most likely early next week. It's the last piece of the build! No more pics from me but a cool video to keep the stoke goin!


    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/3-vxC9Fi1MQ?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  4. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    Rear shock shipped today. Either gonna be here by friday but most likely early next week. It's the last piece of the build! No more pics from me but a cool video to keep the stoke goin!
    nice riding

    thanks for the picture fix calhoun

    edit: picture from yesterday learning the bike

    URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/689/imagebqte.jpg/][/URL]
    Last edited by bionicman; 09-11-2012 at 08:04 PM.

  5. #455
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    It's done.

    I was riding around on it tonight. It felt great, however, I brought it back into my garage and was doing a once-over on everything and the rear pivot felt loose. I tried tightening it and it is still loose. I drew an arrow pointing to the pivot with play (third pic), is this the pivot issue on a few of the Chilis? Anyways, here she is...

    Large Black Ano Chili
    -Vivid Air
    -Lyrik RC2DH
    -Hope Pro 2 Evo w/ Mavic 521 (f) and 721 (r)
    -SLX Brakes
    -SLX Crankset (32t)
    -MRP G2 Chainguide
    -Sram x7 10sp (11-36t)
    -Deity bars/stem
    -KS Dropper post (I used a shim and it was a tight fit, I forced it in and broke it and now it needs a rebuild)

    How should I approach the pivot issue? I don't want to fix it myself, fearing I might royally F something up, I am thinking of taking it to a local Knolly dealer...

    Cheers guys! Thanks for all the knowledge and advice! So stoked!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00642.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00643.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00644.jpg  

    Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-dsc00645.jpg  


  6. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    It's done.

    I was riding around on it tonight. It felt great, however, I brought it back into my garage and was doing a once-over on everything and the rear pivot felt loose. I tried tightening it and it is still loose. I drew an arrow pointing to the pivot with play (third pic), is this the pivot issue on a few of the Chilis? Anyways, here she is...

    Large Black Ano Chili
    -Vivid Air
    -Lyrik RC2DH
    -Hope Pro 2 Evo w/ Mavic 521 (f) and 721 (r)
    -SLX Brakes
    -SLX Crankset (32t)
    -MRP G2 Chainguide
    -Sram x7 10sp (11-36t)
    -Deity bars/stem
    -KS Dropper post (I used a shim and it was a tight fit, I forced it in and broke it and now it needs a rebuild)

    How should I approach the pivot issue? I don't want to fix it myself, fearing I might royally F something up, I am thinking of taking it to a local Knolly dealer...

    Cheers guys! Thanks for all the knowledge and advice! So stoked!
    it's a pretty easy fix. a file and some time are all you need. retarded you have to do it, but still easy. remove the pivot and file it down

    Really??

  7. #457
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    I am just nervous since I don't have calipers. I read your post qbert. I dont fully understand it though. So you back one of horseshoe axle pivots out half way, bang it with a mallet, then detach the seatstay pivots. Then remove the horseshoe pivot axle? Sorry, my reading comprehension skills are on par with a 5th grader.

  8. #458
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    gaps between link and bolt heads.

    Anyone of you guys notice a gap between the link and the outer bolt head/shoulder? Is this normal or is this something to be worried about?

  9. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    I am just nervous since I don't have calipers. I read your post qbert. I dont fully understand it though. So you back one of horseshoe axle pivots out half way, bang it with a mallet, then detach the seatstay pivots. Then remove the horseshoe pivot axle? Sorry, my reading comprehension skills are on par with a 5th grader.
    yes, but i get that it sounds confusing without pics. one of the reasons i thought it'd be nice if knolly actually chimed in on this officially is because then they could put some pics up with instructions for people. if you aren't comfortable doing it, get your dealer to take care of it for you.

  10. #460
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    Great looking bikes.
    I see most of them are size medium. Are most of you so "small" or is it possible to ride the Chilcotin in size medium with around 6' and 34" inseam?

  11. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadl View Post
    Great looking bikes.
    I see most of them are size medium. Are most of you so "small" or is it possible to ride the Chilcotin in size medium with around 6' and 34" inseam?
    The Knolly medium is kinda big when you look at the geo numbers for a Nomad or HD.

    I have the same height and inseam you posted and feel like the medium with a 70mm stem is a perfect fit. I also like that the seatpost is shorter on a medium, there are some steeps around here where it is nice to get that saddle out of the way.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

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  12. #462
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    Im 5'10'' and i ride mediums on all my bikes , dunno if im considered so " small " lol .

  13. #463
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    I am exactly your size Fadl. I went with the L with a 50mm stem. I have not had the chance to put it through testing yet but it seems to fit well. I chose L based solely off the Knolly recommendation.

  14. #464
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    I'm 6' with a 32" inseam, and went large with a 60mm stem. I could probably go to a 50mm, but I'm used to what I have now. I wouldn't want a medium, although I know it would fit much better than my med. Heckler (bought on a very tight budget when I was getting back into riding)!

  15. #465
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    I'm 5'11 with a 33+" inseam, and kinda long arms. I ride a large with a 50mm stem (and 780mm bars) and it seems to fits perfectly. I've ridden cheezwhip's medium with a 50 mm stem and it felt too small for me.

    Also keep in mind how much exposed post you would have at full pedaling height with either size. You probably don't want to be pedaling around with 9 or 10 inches of exposed post.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  16. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fadl View Post
    Great looking bikes.
    I see most of them are size medium. Are most of you so "small" or is it possible to ride the Chilcotin in size medium with around 6' and 34" inseam?
    I'm 6 feet with a large...50mm stem and 760 bars. Unbelievable set up...Bike rips!

  17. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42 View Post
    I am just nervous since I don't have calipers. I read your post qbert. I dont fully understand it though. So you back one of horseshoe axle pivots out half way, bang it with a mallet, then detach the seatstay pivots. Then remove the horseshoe pivot axle? Sorry, my reading comprehension skills are on par with a 5th grader.
    Well, the good news is that a 5th grader can take care of the minor problem...Remove the larger bolts that attach to the seat tube first as to not put any torque on them as you use a mallet to remove the horseshoe bolt. To remove the horseshoe pivot bolt, unscrew the removable bolt a few turns and hit it with a mallet to get the axle moving. Pull the axle out and file it down .3mm. Someone said that is equivalent to about 20 swipes with a bastard file.

  18. #468
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    Qbert!!! Thank you!!!! That totally worked!!!

    My axle was 72.85mm long and I followed qberts intstructions. I ended up at 72.70 on the dot. I got it back together and there is no play. It was not hard at all (trust me, I am not qualified to work on bikes )

    I AM SO STOKED RIGHT NOW!!!!!!

    P.S. Knolly crew, like qbert said, there should be a little write up with pics. It wasn't hard, but it would definitely help to have some visual guide to make sure you aren't F'ing it up too bad.

  19. #469
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    Looks good. Impressive weight!
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  20. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    How are you liking the xfusion suspension?

  21. #471
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    you guys must be shaped funny LOL
    I'm on a large 5'11'' with a 70mm stem
    tried a 50mm - it made the bike a bit too nervous on the gravity side & brought the bars a bit too close to the knees during switchback manuvers
    I may try a 65mm stem but thats splitting hairs as with the 70mm I need to make a bit of handlebar downforce at times to really carve the front tire..

  22. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    Greasy build

  23. #473
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    maybe try a wider bar? 750 mm works great for me on these kind of bikes ...

  24. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    Great!

    How tall are you? Do you know your inseam too?

  25. #475
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    Anyone of you guys notice a gap between the link and the outer bolt head/shoulder? Is this normal or is this something to be worried about?
    yes, I have gaps on all those shoulder bolts. The one at the horse shoe link is slightly bigger than the others though. I'll take it apart and measure if it's too long ...

  26. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by bionicman View Post
    you guys must be shaped funny LOL
    I'm on a large 5'11'' with a 70mm stem
    tried a 50mm - it made the bike a bit too nervous on the gravity side & brought the bars a bit too close to the knees during switchback manuvers
    I may try a 65mm stem but thats splitting hairs as with the 70mm I need to make a bit of handlebar downforce at times to really carve the front tire..
    I'm 5'11" also and I am running a 70mm stem and 750mm bars and it feels great. My old bike had 50mm stem and narrower bars and they were to close and didn't feel good on climbs.

  27. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiggs View Post
    and loving it. Weighing in at 31.6 lbs with the current build.
    What's with that X-Fusion stuff? You know it's not on the Knolly approved product list. You have to start a thread asking what fork/shock you should buy for your chilcotin and then buy accordingly. Duh.

  28. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmtim View Post
    What's with that X-Fusion stuff? You know it's not on the Knolly approved product list. You have to start a thread asking what fork/shock you should buy for your chilcotin and then buy accordingly. Duh.
    Hurry up and order your Blue one...

  29. #479
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    not many pics in this thread

    Not sure if it is the operator or the camera but I cannot take pics to save my life.



    This is one beefy frame and the raw is awesome.

  30. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by noosa2 View Post
    Not sure if it is the operator or the camera but I cannot take pics to save my life.



    This is one beefy frame and the raw is awesome.
    SWEET! Anothe Chili on SOMO. Knolly Domination!
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  31. #481
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    I thought Noosa already had one? Or I am thinking of Dirtbag's maybe? I think it was white? I think you helped build it up Tisser, who's ever it was.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  32. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I thought Noosa already had one? Or I am thinking of Dirtbag's maybe? I think it was white? I think you helped build it up Tisser, who's ever it was.
    Yeah Dirtbag has a Chilcotin, I've been on an Endo for the last 18months or so...

    Unfortunately I may have to sell my Chili as things are not looking so good $ wise.

  33. #483
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    Before her weight gain...

    I'm going to be adding some weight (adjustable seat post, bigger tires, coil fork) to my Chili so I decided to take a picture when she was at her lightest.

    + Med Chilcotin with CCDBair
    + X0 Chain Guide ISCG-05 version
    + Race Face crank boots
    + Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset (22-36) 170mm Arm length GPX BB
    + Loaded AmX Pedals
    + Hope Mtn ceramic BB, 68/73mm
    + SRAM PG-1050 10sp Cassette 11-36 (11,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36)
    + PC1071 Chain
    + S3 (DM), Top Pull, 22/36t (2x10); Mfg #: 00.7615.177.040; UPC #: 710845674136
    + Sram X.9 Rear Derailleur - 10 Speed
    + SRAM X.9 2 x 10 Trigger Shifter Front
    + SRAM X.0 2 x 10 Grip Shift (Rear)
    + Stans ZTR Flow 26" disc rim
    + Sapim C-X Ray 14g bladed spoke
    + DT Swiss 2.0 x 12mm Alloy Nipples
    + Hadley DH Front disc hub, 20x110mm
    + Hadley Rear 8/9/10-spd Hub 12x142
    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Front Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT M785 Pre-Bled Rear Disc Brake Metal Pad
    + Shimano XT RT86 IceTech 180mm 6-bolt Rotor
    + Schwalbe Hans Dampf 26x2.35 Snake Skin Tubeless Ready Folding Tire Trailstar
    + Lyrik RC2 DH Solo Air 170mm
    + Cane Creek 40 ZS49 headset
    + WCS C-260 Matrix stem, (31.8) 6/84dx90 UD
    + RaceFace SIXC 31.8, 725mm
    + Oury Lock-On grips
    + Straitline Components Bar Ends
    + Thomson 31.6 x 410mm Black Seatpost
    + Chromag Seat QR 35mm
    + Fizik Aliante Gamma XM White K:ium Rail

    Weight: 31.0 LBS as pictured
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Knolly Chilcotin: Build Information, Photos and Set-up Thread-chili-posing.jpg  

    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  34. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    + SRAM X.9 2 x 10 Trigger Shifter (Front)
    + SRAM X.0 2 x 10 Grip Shift (Rear)

    + Straitline Components Bar Ends
    About the shifter setup: I like the SRAM Grip Shifts (GS); however, they come with a long grip that makes it so you have to move your hands to shift and you can't be on the end of your bars and use one-finger brake levers. I cut down some OURY grips and mated them to the GSs, with part of my hand on the shift mechanism. The front derailleur kept shifting to the small ring because the spring on the derailleur is too tight. I call SRAM and they were sure it was the GS. I sent the GS in and they sent it back saying it was fine. (Love SRAM tech support... NOT!)

    The current bastardized setup is working fine so I'm not worried about it for now, but would love to know how to loosen the spring tension on the SRAM front derailleur.

    About the bar ends: They are heavy and they attach to the bars by putting a dent in your bars (sort of defeats the purposes of putting them on to protect your bar ends). POS, IMO.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  35. #485
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    Why a coil fork? The Lyrik RC2DH & Float RC2 are excellent forks. What don't you like about the Lyrik? Love the bike!

  36. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Why a coil fork? The Lyrik RC2DH & Float RC2 are excellent forks. What don't you like about the Lyrik?
    Coil is linear, rate stays the same throughout its travel. Air compresses... Non linear and doesn't use all its travel unless you unrest to blow through low speed, just easier to adjust. Obviously he's fine with the little extra weight and the little extra work, its a good choice.

  37. #487
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    what Tires?

    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    I'm going to be adding some weight (adjustable seat post, bigger tires, coil fork) to my Chili so I decided to take a picture when she was at her lightest.

    Weight: 31.0 LBS as pictured
    TSC, What tires are planning on switching to? My Chili has been gaining weight as well; coil rear shock, Avy cart in front fork, different dropper post, looking for some new tires.

    TG

  38. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    Why a coil fork? The Lyrik RC2DH & Float RC2 are excellent forks. What don't you like about the Lyrik? Love the bike!
    Why? Because I have another fork that I want to try on my Chili. Overall I like my Lyrik. I've found the tunability to be really useful because the terrain and speed at which I'm riding varies greatly from ride to ride. The only thing I would say negative about it is that I can't get the small-bump compliance to where I want. It's not bad but it's not great. If I were a better tuner I could probably get it perfect.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  39. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Losungen View Post
    Coil is linear, rate stays the same throughout its travel. Air compresses... Non linear and doesn't use all its travel unless you unrest to blow through low speed, just easier to adjust. Obviously he's fine with the little extra weight and the little extra work, its a good choice.
    I used to run coil only up front. The 2 forks I mentioned are pretty linear and the last 20% of travel is reserved for those OH S*+t moments. That's the mistake many fail to realise! I'm a believer in a PROPER SETUP air fork. Far better than older gen air forks! Air shocks, not so much! Although I have not tried a DB air yet.

  40. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    looking for some new tires.

    TG
    Hans dampf

  41. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalMX View Post
    I used to run coil only up front. The 2 forks I mentioned are pretty linear and the last 20% of travel is reserved for those OH S*+t moments. That's the mistake many fail to realise! I'm a believer in a PROPER SETUP air fork. Far better than older gen air forks! Air shocks, not so much! Although I have not tried a DB air yet.
    Don't get me wrong, me likes my air. Just offering up why one would use a coil. I don't agree with the %20 percent though, for my riding style. An oh **** is an oh **** to me. I like to use all my travel all the time. Air makes that real easy, as does drcv, without having fudge low speed to get it.

  42. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by G-AIR View Post
    TSC, What tires are planning on switching to? My Chili has been gaining weight as well; coil rear shock, Avy cart in front fork, different dropper post, looking for some new tires.

    TG
    Front: Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    Rear: Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky

    If you read back through the builds on this thread you will find a couple of other riders running these tires and at least one in this configuration. I PMed them months ago and got their reasoning and wanted to try it. (I love to experiment.) Also, I've noted that some of the hard-core XC Chili riders are running larger tires.

    Now with the 650b buzz I'm even more curious about running the Chili with bigger tires. And, according to the recommendations it's about time to change my Stan's Tire Sealant, so there is no better time to change my tires than now.

    My Hans Dampf will still be available if I want to go back.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  43. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Front: Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    Rear: Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky

    If you read back through the builds on this thread you will find a couple of other riders running these tires and at least one in this configuration. I PMed them months ago and got their reasoning and wanted to try it. (I love to experiment.) Also, I've noted that some of the hard-core XC Chili riders are running larger tires.

    Now with the 650b buzz I'm even more curious about running the Chili with bigger tires. And, according to the recommendations it's about time to change my Stan's Tire Sealant, so there is no better time to change my tires than now.

    My Hans Dampf will still be available if I want to go back.
    TSC i would try the Muddy Mary up front . I used to use the MM up front and the Big Betty in the rear on my DH bike and was AMAZING literally fror all weather . From dry to wet to muddy to roots and rocks . Either way , i think you will enjoy the tire setup but i really loved the MM that i would run it front and rear . It was very predictable too

  44. #494
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    I'm also pretty happy with my Muddy Mary's.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  45. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by TSC View Post
    Front: Schwalbe Big Betty UST K tire, 26 x 2.4" TrailStar
    Rear: Maxxis Minion-DHF UST K tire, 26 x 2.5" SuperTacky
    I started with a Minion on the rear and recently swapped it for a Schwalbe Fat Albert. I am huge fan of the Minion and love how predictable it is, but the Fat Albert is just a better tire ('round here.) Way better traction and faster rolling.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  46. #496
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    Thanks for the tire advice. (G-AIR probably appreciates it too.) I already have both tires in-hand so I will probably give them a whirl before trying something different.

    Back when I was doing my research I read some reviews (example: Schwalbe Big Betty and Muddy Mary MTB Tire Review) that made me believe the Big Betty would be a better tire for where I plan on riding it (Southern Utah).

    I have the DHF (front and back) on my DH bike and have liked the traction they have provided, but I will definitely give the Fat Alberts a try in the future.

    Side note: I've only ridden Hans Dampf on my Chili so I'm not sure of the reason (air pressure, fork settings, lack of skill, etc.) but my front end has slid out from under me numerous times. Even worse is that I'm not able to tell when it is about to go, so it makes high-speed, flat/off-camber cornering a bit tense (especially with my wrist still healing from a mid-season break). I'm not blaming the tires, but will interesting to see if I get different results with the Big Betty.
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  47. #497
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    Quote Originally Posted by aedubber View Post
    TSC i would try the Muddy Mary up front . I used to use the MM up front and the Big Betty in the rear on my DH bike and was AMAZING literally fror all weather . From dry to wet to muddy to roots and rocks . Either way , i think you will enjoy the tire setup but i really loved the MM that i would run it front and rear . It was very predictable too
    I'd run MM front and rear, and do - but for DH/FR days only.

    For AM riding, I've loved BB front for 4 years - trying something different now with a Specy Butcher 2.3. I dig it, but would go back to the BB without hesitation.

    Calhoun, I've not ridden the minions (yet), but do really like the Fat Albert rear. I've had this one on since february/march and the wear is in line with what I expect.

    Honestly, the side knobs are tearing on the inside, but tire holds the line and rails just as well as it always has. I had the new compound BB do the same up front, but I didn't trust it nearly as much with the tearing on the inside of the side knobs.

  48. #498
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    hmm...

    I am running a Hans Dampf in the front now and so far I have had the opposite experience. Gotta be terrain, though Southern Utah shares a lot of similarities with NM. I feel that I am able to push harder on the front wheel in turns and get traction out of it. I am heading to Moab this Thursday so I will let you know how this set up performs.
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  49. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by CharacterZero View Post
    I'd run MM front and rear, and do - but for DH/FR days only.

    For AM riding, I've loved BB front for 4 years - trying something different now with a Specy Butcher 2.3. I dig it, but would go back to the BB without hesitation.

    Calhoun, I've not ridden the minions (yet), but do really like the Fat Albert rear. I've had this one on since february/march and the wear is in line with what I expect.

    Honestly, the side knobs are tearing on the inside, but tire holds the line and rails just as well as it always has. I had the new compound BB do the same up front, but I didn't trust it nearly as much with the tearing on the inside of the side knobs.
    I've noticed that tearing on the HD, but I can't tell that it has given up anything.

    Butcher = Minion, no?
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  50. #500
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    My rear HD looks the same, knobs tearing like crazy on the inside, but still seems to be holding. I'm sure it's not helping I've really been working my cornering all summer, and have really thrown that back end into more corners than I can count.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

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