Chilcotin Linkage - too much bushings friction
When I removed the shock from my fame I noticed that the linkage moves with a lot of friction so much I have to push/pull [with quite a lot of force] in order to move the rear triangle. It's been like that from the very beginning but I thought it will get better. I'm doing the winter overhaul so I disassembled, cleaned and greased all the bearings in the frame. While assembling everything moves buttery smooth unless I tighten the bolts holding igus bushings. When I tighten them to specified 5.5 Nm it's freaking tight! I don't get it, why use the bearings all around and then 2 bushings that make the linkage work with so much friction. The whole linkage would work almost frictionless if not for those 2 bushings. This begs the question: what is the reason for using bushings? I was about to get a shock needle bearing kit but with so much friction on bushings it would be completely pointless.
Am I the only one experiencing this problem?
How's your linkage working?
Any tips, trick, solutions?
Same here. I have to push/pull with force in order to move the rear triangle and it's been like that from the very beginning too.
No idea whether its supposed to be like this.
It just doesn't make sense, why would they add so much bushing friction to the otherwise frictionless bearings performance.
I hope there's something broken so I can fix it
Interestingly enough, in my old Endorphin there was way less bushing friction.
Seems like the bushings in Chilcotin are too tight and/or the metal spacer inside is too short.
Those igus bushings are supposed to have a very tight fit. I was concerned about it as well when I had my Chilcotin all apart - and was comparing it to the first generation Endorphin. I talked with Noel (ok, he talked, I listened) about it, and he assured me it was normal. I believe they use such a tight interface there to help make the rear of the bike feel as flex free as it does? Truth is those parts/pivot point do not more a whole heck of a lot throughout the suspensions travel which is why you dont notice it when its assembled.
Well, they do move enough to notice it and to impede the plushness of the rear suspension.
Originally Posted by 006_007
My pivots are so tight that even the weight of the rear wheel won't bring the linkage down when I push it up.
Sure it'll change when I install the shock but I can't get that friction out of my head
I'd rather have more flex and less friction if you ask me.
BTW, is it necessary to grease those igus bushings?
I'd be more worried if one side had more wear/looser than the other
the real question is do you notice a lack of rear end suppleness while riding?
Well, I think we all know the answer to this question but on the other hand I saw WALMART frames moving with less friction
Originally Posted by qbert2000
Don't get me wrong, I love my Knolly and the way it performs. I'm just curious why introduce so much friction to such a wonderful frame.
If you want more flex then I recommend something from walmart........
Originally Posted by BikeBert
As for greasing the bushings, I find that in really dry dusty times of year you may get a slight creaking from them - at that point I just place a drop of chain lube on them (without dismantling) and cycle the suspension - that is the only maintenance they need.
Bikebert, have you checked your bearings? I had both of the large bearings on the rocker freeze up on my Chilcotin. To fix, simply pop the plastic cover off of the bearing and inject grease into bearing race until the old rusty crap is gone. During the same service, the rest of the bearings in the frame looked great.
For the bushings I add a very small amount of grease to the surface with the linkage apart.
Another thing you can try: There was some information in a different Knolly thread about backing down the torque slightly on the bushing bolts and adding blue locktite to keep them in place.
The best way I have found to add blue locktite at the bushings is by not putting it directly on the bolt. Add the locktite to the threads on the horseshoe and put your finger over the hole, then thread the clean bolt into the assembly. That should keep the locktite out of the bushings.
Portland Off Road Navagators
fwiw the comparable linkage on my endo moves very freely with the shock removed. Would be interesting to compare the parts chil vs endo with calipers to see where the difference lies.
Hey bubba [btw, my 2 year-old niece used to call me bubba ]
Originally Posted by bubba13
Thank you for your tips.
I am very meticulous when it comes to bike overhaul, cleaning and greasing.
I've done all this [including blue locktite] in my previous Endorphin and now in Chilcotin.
As I mentioned, the linkage in old Endo moved freely while in Chilco there is this disturbing friction.
As for backing down the torque I noticed it can introduce some play on bushings which is worse that friction itself.
Why 'too much' friction
excellent guidance here:
Knolly Mechanic Tips & Tricks
BikeBert... remember that the downward force exerted to the frame when riding due to... 1. your body weight, 2. your bikes weight and 3. gravity ...is a lot lot more than the pressure you are imposing with your hands... same for upward pressure / rebound force produced by the shock (ever tried to compress a CCDB Coil with your hands!)...
And I thought I was meticulous...
Originally Posted by BikeBert
Similar story on the Bubba nickname here!
Portland Off Road Navagators
cfrench's point is pretty much bang on. The force a person is able to apply to your bike while in the stand is a fraction of the percentage of what somebody is applying when riding down the trail. This little bit of friction is fine.
The bushings used on the old Endorphin, new Endorphin, and Chilcotin are designed to work best when under the proper amount of torque. In this case, it means 5.5N.m. I would relate this to a shock bushing. Our bushings which we have been using for years are the same ones that come stock on Fox shocks; and just like on rear shocks, the only way for it to feel not loose, is for it to be tight.
To make sure the bushings perform to their highest potential, keep the bushings clear of any debris and occasionally open it up to apply a very thin layer of grease. Doing this should provide you with years of problem free enjoyment.
Your body weight is balanced against the spring in your shock when riding.
If you hit a big bump at speed there is a lot of energy to deal with so I can see that overcoming any friction in the bushings no problem.
If you hit small trail features they have to overcome any friction in the suspension system [bushings/bearings/seals/etc..] before the suspension will move in either direction.
I've never seen a FS MTB designed to have friction in the moving parts because of the effect on small bump sensitivity.
And just like the OP I would assume my bike had a problem if I found that to be the case on my bike.
I'm not a suspension guru so I am willing to be educated on the topic.
Happy New Year!
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