Page 7 of 15 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast
Results 151 to 175 of 357
  1. #151
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,211
    Quote Originally Posted by spacebull1 View Post
    Nice..

    Yeah, should be interesting to compare the two. I still can't find a 500 lb ti spring though...
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  2. #152
    mtbr member
    Reputation: F.N.G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,399
    Quote Originally Posted by gapowell14 View Post
    Fark! My LSR knob turns infinitely! Clicks aren't consistent either with a half to full turn or more without any clicks then two straight in a row.

    I've had the bike on two rides now, but this is the first time I've gone to adjust anything other than sag.

    Anyone else have this issue? Should I not ride on it? Great way to start my weekend....
    It happened to me. Try getting a screw driver and push the screw in while trying to tighten it. There is a little stopper ring that prevents the bolt from coming out. You opened it up too far. You just have to get the threads to catch to start closing it again. Careful though, as that little stopper ring is fragile. Mine backed out all the way and lost oil and pressure. I had to have it serviced and all the adjusters replaced and recharged with nitrogen.

    FYI....I NEVER use that CC tool anymore to adjust LSC or LSR. Those bolts are too fragile and that tool is overkill. I always use a little flat head screw driver now to fine tune it. You can almost turn those by hand/fingers.

  3. #153
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Yeah, should be interesting to compare the two. I still can't find a 500 lb ti spring though...
    best bet is almost to buy a dsp dueler with the 500 lb ti spring for $313 and sell the shock after you scoop the spring.

    DSP-Racing

  4. #154
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thedeathstar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    66
    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    It happened to me. Try getting a screw driver and push the screw in while trying to tighten it. There is a little stopper ring that prevents the bolt from coming out. You opened it up too far. You just have to get the threads to catch to start closing it again. Careful though, as that little stopper ring is fragile. Mine backed out all the way and lost oil and pressure. I had to have it serviced and all the adjusters replaced and recharged with nitrogen.
    Does this happen because you torque the bolt too hard? Last year when I was adjusting my monarch, the floodgate valve kept twisting until it sheared (no complaints because I got a full warranty on a 3 year old shock) and now the HSC adjuster on my Lyrik opens up past where it stops clicking. I'm scared that I will screw up my DB somehow in this way.

  5. #155
    mtbr member
    Reputation: F.N.G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,399
    Quote Originally Posted by thedeathstar View Post
    Does this happen because you torque the bolt too hard? Last year when I was adjusting my monarch, the floodgate valve kept twisting until it sheared (no complaints because I got a full warranty on a 3 year old shock) and now the HSC adjuster on my Lyrik opens up past where it stops clicking. I'm scared that I will screw up my DB somehow in this way.
    Supposedly, that is what happened. I did not use any force though. So, that just goes to show how fragile that adjuster is. The distributor who fixed it for me told me that CC informed them they were seeing a lot of this.

    Just be gentle.

  6. #156
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    Supposedly, that is what happened. I did not use any force though. So, that just goes to show how fragile that adjuster is. The distributor who fixed it for me told me that CC informed them they were seeing a lot of this.

    Just be gentle.
    Ya, my LSR was either all the way or almost all the way out, from where the valve was when I started adjusting it. There was never any stop or even the slight bit of tightness. The clicks where not there either. It would turn about a full turn then click two to three times in row then nothing for another turn to turn and a half. It was either broken from the get-go or someone in the factory adjusting it broke it (or it breaks so easily that I couldn't feel it, which is not good either). My LBS didn't touch it when the frame came in.

  7. #157
    MC MasterShake
    Reputation: woodyak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,906
    Mine did the same thing after only a month or so of riding. I *****ed about it to Cane Creek and they said it was probably the alignment on the frame. Of course it was not. I ordered 2 sets of reducers as it looks like this is going to be an issue. Hopefully, they are seeing that this is a problem already and are working on a re-design. If enough people ***** about it...

  8. #158
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bubba13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    720

    O-ring blow out

    I have been chasing a clicking sound when pedaling on my Chilcotin with the DBair. (ie. minor movement at the shock) Turns out, it is the o-ring/ spacer issue you all brought up a few pages ago. I have some minor play at the top of the shock and the o-ring on the left side of the bike looks like it is two years old. I really like this shock but the design of this spacer has me scratching my head. The o-ring material is way too soft to work without a shoulder to keep it in place. It seems this design should call for a hard bushing of some sort and not a rubber piece?

    Edit: I just called CC and they said this is a known issue they are working on with Knolly....

    Edit #2. Pulled the spacer assembly apart and there is obvious wear on the left side of the shaft where the o-ring was pushed out. Planning to just grease it up and ride until new parts are available.

    Pic...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chilcotin: The inevitable DB-air setup thread-004.jpg  

    Chilcotin: The inevitable DB-air setup thread-005.jpg  

    Last edited by bubba13; 06-12-2012 at 03:41 PM.
    Portland Off Road Navagators

  9. #159
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,211
    Damn man, sorry to hear it's happening to you as well.

    My shock is on the way back to me last I spoke with Malcolm. He said he had talked to Noel about a fix (I'm guessing that's what they referred to when they said they were working with Knolly.) From what I understood in the email, Malcolm was machining me a few aluminum spacers instead of the o-rings. When I get it back I'll take a pic and let everyone know what the fix was.

    Although still bummed I scarred up my shock trying to fix this, Malcolm said it was purely cosmetic and not to worry about it.

    And FYI, when I was running my backup CCDB coil lately while the DBAir was in to Cane Creek, the o-ring came out of place on the first ride....
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  10. #160
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CrashTheDOG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,400
    Quick update, I re-tuned the shock with everything based from "fully open" taking into consideration the information provided by Catch22. I first set the proper sag 33-35% and then made the four adjustments to the knobs. The shock felt much much better. It still needs some fine tuning but at least I'm seeing the full potential of the shock. I've read and reread Noel's post on tuning advice several times and know just the ride I'm going to use to set up compression with his Method of Bisection. I'll report back and let you all know where my setting end up.

  11. #161
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    26
    Along with my infinitely spinning LSR knob, I also have the black washer popping out problem... after only three rides! I've haven't heard back from CC on the first issue yet, but it looks like I'm going to have to send another email... :P

  12. #162
    mtbr member
    Reputation: F.N.G's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,399
    Quote Originally Posted by gapowell14 View Post
    Along with my infinitely spinning LSR knob, I also have the black washer popping out problem... after only three rides! I've haven't heard back from CC on the first issue yet, but it looks like I'm going to have to send another email... :P
    Have you tried using a screwdriver? Push and tighten little bolt and threads may grab.

  13. #163
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    26
    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    Have you tried using a screwdriver? Push and tighten little bolt and threads may grab.
    I did, and got it back in. Still broken though. There are no clicks or identifiable stops (bumps?). Every complete turn or so it will click 1-3 times and hit a rough spot. It's inconsistent, so I think there's something loose in there.

  14. #164
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mayha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    334
    Quote Originally Posted by gapowell14 View Post
    I did, and got it back in. Still broken though. There are no clicks or identifiable stops (bumps?). Every complete turn or so it will click 1-3 times and hit a rough spot. It's inconsistent, so I think there's something loose in there.
    I'm really sorry to hear of all the issues. Certainly not what you want to be dealing with at an exciting time. I'm going to contact Real World Cycles to see if they have a needle bearing kit for the Chilcotin that should be arriving any time now. Hopefully this nips this issue in the bud.

    Good luck to everyone!

  15. #165
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,211
    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    I'm really sorry to hear of all the issues. Certainly not what you want to be dealing with at an exciting time. I'm going to contact Real World Cycles to see if they have a needle bearing kit for the Chilcotin that should be arriving any time now. Hopefully this nips this issue in the bud.

    Good luck to everyone!

    I thought RWC didn't make needle bearing eyelets for the CCDB's b/c the bushing eyelets were slightly larger diameter than basically all the other shock manufacturers?

    If not, this is great news. Please let us know what you find out!

    Edit: I might be thinking of the old CCDB coils that had spherical bushings, I think they had to have slightly over sized eyelet holes for the spherical bushings to work. The new coils and DB Air's might have eyelet holes the same as the Fox, Marz, etc.
    Last edited by rscecil007; 06-14-2012 at 07:48 PM.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  16. #166
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,211
    Ok, got my shock back from Cane Creek. Malcolm ended up cutting some 1mm spacers to use in place of the o-rings. (see the crappy picture from my phone.) Now the problem is when I replace each o-ring with a 1mm aluminum spacer, when it's all slid together, the pivot axle sticks out about 0.5mm on each side. If I put a 1mm spacer on one side or the other, it all lines up perfectly. But obviously I don't want to do that.

    I've no idea of this slight bit of axle sticking out will be noticeable, I've not mounted the shock back up yet.

    But this somewhat creates another problem. Now there is no o-ring to protect the bushing from dirt, etc. How big of a deal this is, I don't know.

    Either way, I still stand by my original statement that this hardware design is beyond ****ing stupid.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chilcotin: The inevitable DB-air setup thread-imag0251.jpg  

    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  17. #167
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    497
    That's not a good solution... I agree that the CC hardware is problematic. I took my DBAir off my frame the other day and the Fox mounting hardware is working flawlessly.

  18. #168
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rscecil007's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    2,211
    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    That's not a good solution... I agree that the CC hardware is problematic. I took my DBAir off my frame the other day and the Fox mounting hardware is working flawlessly.

    Did you say you were using the 2-piece Fox hardware?
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  19. #169
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    497
    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    Did you say you were using the 2-piece Fox hardware?
    3 piece for the lower mount and 2 piece for the upper..

  20. #170
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mayha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    334
    Quote Originally Posted by gretch View Post
    3 piece for the lower mount and 2 piece for the upper..
    Where are you ordering from?

  21. #171
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mayha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    334
    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I thought RWC didn't make needle bearing eyelets for the CCDB's b/c the bushing eyelets were slightly larger diameter than basically all the other shock manufacturers?

    If not, this is great news. Please let us know what you find out!

    Edit: I might be thinking of the old CCDB coils that had spherical bushings, I think they had to have slightly over sized eyelet holes for the spherical bushings to work. The new coils and DB Air's might have eyelet holes the same as the Fox, Marz, etc.
    You're right about RWC, they don't make the kit for the DB AIR

  22. #172
    1:18
    Reputation: Corvette's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    461
    FYI: I use RS hardware on one eyelet (where the piggyback is) and Fox hardware on the other eyelet (can't use the latter on piggyback, will damage the shock).

    3-piece hardware, works OK.

  23. #173
    Greystoke
    Reputation: geo025's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    234
    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bottoms View Post
    Let's get this going. This is a crazy adjustable shock, and everyone will have their own preferences based on terrain, etc. This is a good starting point based on our suspension design...


    HSC: 1/2 turn from fully open (the 4x4 suspension design provides inherent bottom out control, so no need to over-damp this setting)

    LSC: 15 clicks from fully closed (the 4x4 suspension design is FULLY ACTIVE, so a couple extra clicks from middle(12) keep the pedalling smooth and controlled)

    HSR: 1.5 turns from fully open (rider preference prevails on this one, depending on how fast you ride and how big the hits are)

    LSR: 12 clicks from fully closed (this is the median setting and keeps bumpy/technical climbing from feeling too springy)

    Cheers.
    Just noticed the DB Air settings have changed a little in Cane Creeks base tune page from the above .
    I've been happy with the above settings but might just have a play with the new ones.

    edit; seems it has changed yet again closer to the above settings?
    edit; O K just a computer glitch normal reception has resumed...
    Last edited by geo025; 07-11-2012 at 12:14 AM.

  24. #174
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    55
    Thank you Noel for the explanations, it helped me a lot adjust the ccdb air on my podium.
    Here are the settings after 1 week of mountains ride :

    HSC: 1/2 turn from fully open.

    LSC: 14 from fully open.

    HSR: 1.75 turns from fully open.

    LSR: 10 clicks from fully open.

    RTR Weight: 154 lbs

    Pressure: 112 psi

    Sag: 29% (22 mm)

    It works as well as my bos stoy rare !!!

  25. #175
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mayha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    334
    Quote Originally Posted by geo025 View Post
    Just noticed the DB Air settings have changed a little in Cane Creeks base tune page from the above .
    I've been happy with the above settings but might just have a play with the new ones.

    edit; seems it has changed yet again closer to the above settings?
    edit; O K just a computer glitch normal reception has resumed...
    The base tune from Cane Creek feels great...I only varied slightly from there.

Page 7 of 15 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •