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  1. #51
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    Shock size is 7.875 x 2.25. I can't remember the spacers. When I can get to my computer or home i will look for you. I know they are 6mm hardware though.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  2. #52
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    OK just dug it up on my phone. Shock hardware is 41.2 x M6 and 22 x M6. Hope that helps.

    I think i have some 22 x M6 fox hardware if you need it off my old RFX. Pretty sure turner used 22.

    Lmk if you do.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  3. #53
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    Are you sure it is 6mm? Did they change it for the Chilcotins? Every other Knolly has always been
    8 x 22mm and 8 x 44mm hardware.

    Buzz

  4. #54
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    That's what I was told by Malcolm at CC.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

  5. #55
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    Turner uses 21.85 x M6. There is also a 22.2 out there as well!

  6. #56
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    6mm is correct. I will sadly miss the 8mm on my Endorphin
    "Three balls at once...who knew?" - Cotton McKnight

  7. #57
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    So then does Cane Creek has it wrong, I assume?
    Look at the mounting dimensions for the double barrels for the 2012 Chilcotin (for which the CCDB/Air is also an OEM shock).

  8. #58
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    Mistakes happen....

    When you are selecting the year of Chilco, click on 2011. The dimensions are correct on that page. It is NOT a 8.5 x 2.5.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndyN View Post
    Posted on the Intense forum

    "I heard today through the grapevine from a source I trust that there may be some issues with the CCDB Air from the factory that are causing the end stroke travel issues. Apparently more information is forthcoming and I will report back when I have some solid data. Cane Creek will NOT respond to any of my requests for information at the moment. Maybe they are busy...."
    I stopped reading after "heard - source - grapevine - trust".
    Global Director of Sales: Knolly Bikes

  10. #60
    Knomer
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    Quote Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    So then does Cane Creek has it wrong, I assume?
    Look at the mounting dimensions for the double barrels for the 2012 Chilcotin (for which the CCDB/Air is also an OEM shock).
    This is wrong. I will email Malcolm.
    Global Director of Sales: Knolly Bikes

  11. #61
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    I thought so Dusty.
    We should leave our 9-5 work habits out of the weekend, especially when bike riding/reading, but the QA engineer in me, just couldn't let it go...

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bottoms View Post
    I stopped reading after "heard - source - grapevine - trust".
    Really? You can believe what you want but the issues with the DB air are real and not imagination. Otherwise you wouldn't have a thread in nearly every manufacturers forum regarding the inability to access full travel regardless of frame design.

    I posted up this information in the Intense forum and its not based on my assumptions, but it came straight from a respected suspension tuner on the west coast. This is not about dragging Cane Creek through the mud but all about getting to the bottom of the issues at hand, nothing more.

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Bottoms View Post
    This is wrong. I will email Malcolm.
    dusty, any chance to get him to implement the settings of all the other knolly frames on their site too? would be great

  14. #64
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    This just showed up today...

    Yesterday starts tomorrow, tomorrow starts today, and the problem seems to be we're picking up the pieces on the ricochet

  15. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by rscecil007 View Post
    I wonder if the frames coming with DB Air's will come with the little adjuster tool and the spacers? I'm guessing probably not, that's just for aftermarket?
    For 2012 models, the Double Barrel damper adjuster tool is supposed to be included in the package:

    Cane Creek Double Barrel Coil Rear Shock 2012 - BMTBonline.com

  16. #66
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    FYI, the shock does come with the adjustment tool. It's kind of big and it doubles as a bottle opener.

    I setup the shock as per the Setup thread and you guys got it perfect. Slowed both rebounds by one click from the default Chilcotin setup and the shock feels great. Have three rides on the shock now.
    First ride was just a few miles to get used to it, a few < 3' drops just to check out compression.
    Second ride was on rocks/roots all slow (<15 mph) Adjusted rebounds by one click.
    Third ride was same as second except longer and some faster root sections and some berms.

    The shock feels more like a coil than any airshock I've ridden. It has made the Chili feel more like the Endo it replaced. Supple and compliant over the chattery stuff and bottomless feeling on g-outs and landings.

    There has been some talk about the shock not achieving full travel. I haven't got the travel indicator ring all the way to top, but have come very close. It does seem like the shock ramps up at the end, but it hasn't been harsh or even felt like it bottomed yet.

    In a word, the shock is "composed".
    Yesterday starts tomorrow, tomorrow starts today, and the problem seems to be we're picking up the pieces on the ricochet

  17. #67
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    First ride on the Chilly+CCDBA went very well. Amazingly plush for an air shock yet way more composed like a coil. My initial setup was on the soft side with about 40% sag and a little over 100 PSI. It gobbled up hits and felt bottomless. I didn't anything huge but I did hit some 2 or 3' to flat things and some really steep rollers. Definitely using all my travel but no harsh bottom out. I pumped it up to about 130 and that put me around 33% sag. The shock still felt good and it peddled better but I was getting bucked. I dropped it to about 115 PSI and about 37% sag and that seemed to be the sweetspot. It peddled better and still handled the hits real well.

    As far as the adjustments go I added 1 turn of LSC and verified that HSC was all the way out. I plan on playing around with it on today's ride to get it fully dialed in. My only complaint so far would be that it'd be nice to have more HSC adjustment. Having it backed all the way really leaves me w/o any HSC adjustment.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by F.N.G View Post
    Are all these settings going from fully open or from fully closed? I'm a little confuse on the settings from the first post giving half the settings from fully open and the other half from fully close.

  19. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    First ride on the Chilly+CCDBA went very well. Amazingly plush for an air shock yet way more composed like a coil. My initial setup was on the soft side with about 40% sag and a little over 100 PSI. It gobbled up hits and felt bottomless. I didn't anything huge but I did hit some 2 or 3' to flat things and some really steep rollers. Definitely using all my travel but no harsh bottom out. I pumped it up to about 130 and that put me around 33% sag. The shock still felt good and it peddled better but I was getting bucked. I dropped it to about 115 PSI and about 37% sag and that seemed to be the sweetspot. It peddled better and still handled the hits real well.

    As far as the adjustments go I added 1 turn of LSC and verified that HSC was all the way out. I plan on playing around with it on today's ride to get it fully dialed in. My only complaint so far would be that it'd be nice to have more HSC adjustment. Having it backed all the way really leaves me w/o any HSC adjustment.
    Hi Wookyak:

    Trust me on this - you don't want the HSC backed all the way out. The reports that you're seeing online about this are because people are not setting up their shocks properly (i.e. if you're reading this on NSMB). I'm working on a tuning article right now for this shock because a lot of people think that the shock has too much HSC, when in fact, they are blowing through the travel and are being saved by harsh bottom out due to the air spring curve and bumper (which work very, very well even without any HSC).

    I made the exact same mistake when I started tuning the CCDB-Air, so I know exactly where you're coming from.

    Quick set up tips:

    -Get sag roughly set - start around 33 or 35% range. Get the bike's "balance" (i.e. riding level) feeling correct to to help determine the right amount of sag.
    -For HSC: find a small jump - maybe 2 - 4 feet. Hit it with the HSC fully open: you'll feel like the frame is lacking travel. Then, hit it again with the HSC fully closed: the frame will feel like it can't use all of it's travel. Notice how these two effects sound similar but feel different. Now, go back to almost fully open, hit the jump again, then back to almost fully closed. Keep going back and forth towards the middle until you end up with the correct HSC setting. It will now become obvious where the HSC should be set. You may have to adjust air spring pressure a bit here as well, but do one adjustment at a time.

    I'll get a most serious tuning article up shortly but this should provide you with a good start.

    Cheers!
    Noel Buckley
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    www.knollybikes.com

    Instead of PMs, please contact me here.

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    Hi Wookyak:

    Trust me on this - you don't want the HSC backed all the way out. The reports that you're seeing online about this are because people are not setting up their shocks properly (i.e. if you're reading this on NSMB). I'm working on a tuning article right now for this shock because a lot of people think that the shock has too much HSC, when in fact, they are blowing through the travel and are being saved by harsh bottom out due to the air spring curve and bumper (which work very, very well even without any HSC).

    I made the exact same mistake when I started tuning the CCDB-Air, so I know exactly where you're coming from.

    Quick set up tips:

    -Get sag roughly set - start around 33 or 35% range. Get the bike's "balance" (i.e. riding level) feeling correct to to help determine the right amount of sag.
    -For HSC: find a small jump - maybe 2 - 4 feet. Hit it with the HSC fully open: you'll feel like the frame is lacking travel. Then, hit it again with the HSC fully closed: the frame will feel like it can't use all of it's travel. Notice how these two effects sound similar but feel different. Now, go back to almost fully open, hit the jump again, then back to almost fully closed. Keep going back and forth towards the middle until you end up with the correct HSC setting. It will now become obvious where the HSC should be set. You may have to adjust air spring pressure a bit here as well, but do one adjustment at a time.

    I'll get a most serious tuning article up shortly but this should provide you with a good start.

    Cheers!
    Good stuff Noel, I'll be looking forward to the writeup you're working on. All the complaints I've been reading got me concerned enough to order hardware to fit my old Monarch on the Chilcotin as well but it sounds like the concerns may not be necessary. Just want to be prepared with a backup plan in case the DBAir had issues whenever the frame gets here. Hope to catch you down south in a couple weeks!
    Sipping the Knolly Whisquillappa

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    Hi Wookyak:

    Trust me on this - you don't want the HSC backed all the way out. The reports that you're seeing online about this are because people are not setting up their shocks properly (i.e. if you're reading this on NSMB). I'm working on a tuning article right now for this shock because a lot of people think that the shock has too much HSC, when in fact, they are blowing through the travel and are being saved by harsh bottom out due to the air spring curve and bumper (which work very, very well even without any HSC).

    I made the exact same mistake when I started tuning the CCDB-Air, so I know exactly where you're coming from.

    Quick set up tips:

    -Get sag roughly set - start around 33 or 35% range. Get the bike's "balance" (i.e. riding level) feeling correct to to help determine the right amount of sag.
    -For HSC: find a small jump - maybe 2 - 4 feet. Hit it with the HSC fully open: you'll feel like the frame is lacking travel. Then, hit it again with the HSC fully closed: the frame will feel like it can't use all of it's travel. Notice how these two effects sound similar but feel different. Now, go back to almost fully open, hit the jump again, then back to almost fully closed. Keep going back and forth towards the middle until you end up with the correct HSC setting. It will now become obvious where the HSC should be set. You may have to adjust air spring pressure a bit here as well, but do one adjustment at a time.

    I'll get a most serious tuning article up shortly but this should provide you with a good start.

    Cheers!
    Interesting...

    My HSC dial was all the way off shipped. I pretty much left the dials as they were for last night's ride because I didn't have time to mess with them. I did play with the air pressure a bit. I found 30% sag was bucking me around like crazy. I ended up letting out a bunch of air which (unknowingly) put me at 50% sag. It actually rode really well but it did feel very sluggish when pedaling non-tech stuff.

    On today's ride I had time to mess with things. After some trial and error I ended up running about 40% sag (120 psi@155lb. body weight) today with all the dials left at stock except HSC off and LSC backed off a couple of clicks. It pedaled way better and still gobbled up the small and medium hits like they were nothing. I did hit a good 5' drop to semi-flat at speed and it did blow through most of its travel but it didn't bottom out harshly or anything. The ring showed there was about 1/2" of unused stroke after that drop.

    Overall I love how the shock feels so far. Better than pretty much anything I've ridden. I just need to get the sag and compressions settings better dialed. I'll definitely add in some HSC and see where that gets me.

  22. #72
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    I have been running the shock as stock - FWIW we ride fairly slow techy rocky and rooty terrain - it seems to get hung up occasionally on the square edged stuff and requires more body English than I expected to get over some sections...I am a noob with a DB never mind DBair any suggestions on what settings I should fiddle with first? Interestingly coming down the bike is a plow and I am taking more direct lines than I every have...

  23. #73
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    So now that you guys have had a few rides on it does anyone wish they would have gotten the coil? I'm up in the air on the endo frame!
    Check the classifieds for my parts for sale!
    Small Blue Knolly Chilcotin
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  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Magsrgod View Post
    So now that you guys have had a few rides on it does anyone wish they would have gotten the coil? I'm up in the air on the endo frame!
    Nope! It feels like the frame was designed around the shock. The only thing I have not tested is extended DH runs. I'll get those in 2 weeks.

  25. #75
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    It's really pretty damn amazing. All I've done is add 2 clicks of LSC from the stock settings, and it pedals well and bumps disappear.

    I've had a DB coil on a few frames, so I know what that shock can do, and can't see justifying the extra weight of the coil on a trail bike. On a DH sled, sure maybe go coil. But even then, this feels so good that would be a hard choice, if say, one was to buy a Podium.
    If jackasses could fly this place would be an airport.

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