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  1. #276
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    hi there
    now that i got my chili ridden a few times i first felt, wow, great climbing on it. due to bad weather i skipped my local dh and rode it yesterday for the first time. i had the impression that using of travel was good, but it felt quite hard on the rocky section with many stones in it. i almost felt like hopping up and down and that made me feel uncomfortable. i was missing the plushness.
    for the record: i ride it with 30/35% of sag, and used the base-setting on the cc site. furthermore i use the steep setting of the bike.
    i'm thinking of lowering the lsr for more plushness. what do you think?

  2. #277
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfredo View Post
    hi there
    now that i got my chili ridden a few times i first felt, wow, great climbing on it. due to bad weather i skipped my local dh and rode it yesterday for the first time. i had the impression that using of travel was good, but it felt quite hard on the rocky section with many stones in it. i almost felt like hopping up and down and that made me feel uncomfortable. i was missing the plushness.
    for the record: i ride it with 30/35% of sag, and used the base-setting on the cc site. furthermore i use the steep setting of the bike.
    i'm thinking of lowering the lsr for more plushness. what do you think?
    A couple things to try:
    - Check tire pressure. Nothing worse than over pressured new tires. It'll make anything harsh.
    - CCDB's like their sag closer to 35/40%. Try dropping the pressure a hair.
    - Was it harsh when rock crawling or cruising through the rocks. If it was cruising try backing out your High Speed Compression all the way and then add 1/4 click back in. Then go find a 2 to 3' drop to flat and see if the bike bottoms harshly. If it does add in another 1/4 until it's not harsh anymore.
    - You can also back out the Low Speed Compression a couple/few clicks but don't go crazy or your peddling will suffer.

    Hope that helps!

  3. #278
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    thanks woodyak.
    well, i also thought of the tires (indeed they're new) but didn't realise it could have such an impact. i'll have to measure it and see if it's too much.
    it was harsh when i rode the rocky section on the dh. as i said it felt a bit like bumping around and not like the shock giving a smooth feeling.
    i'll give it a try.

  4. #279
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    I must not be normal than everyone else on this topic. For me its 30% sag (anymore and I'm dragging my pedals on the rocks and can't stop bottoming out.) about two turns more of HSC from stock, two clicks less LSC, one click less LSR, and half a turn or more less HSR. So far this feels close to my push tuned fox rc4 I used to ride. I'm still tinkering but we'll see where it ends up. oh, and I only weigh about 150 lbs ride weight.

  5. #280
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    yesterday first i took out pressure out of the tires, but didn't measure it, just by feeling. furthermore i backed out lsc by 2 clicks. then i tried to do a jump into the flat and it felt very good. all in all it was better but not what i expected. still too progressive in my eyes. i'm still trying to find the balance between good climbing (that i already have) and a smooth on dh.
    maybe i'll go for little more sag. maybe i back out lsr as well by 1or 2 clicks.

  6. #281
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    Alfredo, I wasn't initially satisfied either. Once its "right" it's just amazing. Just make minor adjustments as you go. 5 psi is a big difference and one or two clicks of LSC are quite noticeable as well. After you find this sweet spot this shock will flatten the trail and climb anything.

  7. #282
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    now i had the time to measure tire pressure and im wondering a bit. im running maxxis hi roller and minion and the indication on the tire says 2.4-4.0 bar. actually im running with 2.0 as i felt they could be over pressured, but obviously they werent.
    not that i feel them now being to soft, but anyways, i will have to dial it out the shock.

  8. #283
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    Chilcotin: The inevitable DB-air setup thread

    depending on your tire, weight, terrain and ride style you could actually try even less than 2.0 bar. maybe try around 1.8 bar next and see how it works for you ... mind you, you could have a flat but that's part of the experiment ;-)

  9. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfredo View Post
    now i had the time to measure tire pressure and im wondering a bit. im running maxxis hi roller and minion and the indication on the tire says 2.4-4.0 bar. actually im running with 2.0 as i felt they could be over pressured, but obviously they werent.
    not that i feel them now being to soft, but anyways, i will have to dial it out the shock.
    I was referring to pressure in the shock where 5 psi is significant...Especially when you are close to that sweet spot.

  10. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    I must not be normal than everyone else on this topic. For me its 30% sag (anymore and I'm dragging my pedals on the rocks and can't stop bottoming out.) about two turns more of HSC from stock, two clicks less LSC, one click less LSR, and half a turn or more less HSR. So far this feels close to my push tuned fox rc4 I used to ride. I'm still tinkering but we'll see where it ends up. oh, and I only weigh about 150 lbs ride weight.
    so you've gone frome stock settings? means everything half in/out? right? that means you run hsc fully closed or open?

  11. #286
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    HSC more closed than the 1/4 it came shipped as. Basically I slowed the shock way down in both HSR and LSR and took away some of the LSC to make it a little more plush. It does have a little pedal bob but I don't mind. Its more about the downhill for me.

  12. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    HSC more closed than the 1/4 it came shipped as. Basically I slowed the shock way down in both HSR and LSR and took away some of the LSC to make it a little more plush. It does have a little pedal bob but I don't mind. Its more about the downhill for me.
    If you guys really want to dial this thing in go to Cane Creeks website and use the "Chilcotin Base Tune" and go from there (not the stock settings). I also like it plush and dialed out the LSC a couple clicks and went with more sag (33-35%).

  13. #288
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    Mine came stock with the recommended chilcotin base tune. I think the base tune is very close, I just had problems bottoming out a lot so I had to up the HSC.

  14. #289
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    After this weekends ride here's where I stand
    20mm sag
    150lbs rider weight
    2.5 turns HSC
    13 clicks LSC
    1 turn HSR
    15 clicks LSR

    I'm hoping to get out on a chunky buck prone DH trail with speeds in the 30's this week and tune a little further. I think LSR and LSC are pretty dialed but I'm still messing with the HSR and HSC. It seems to have the HSC feel good on DH I need about 2 maybe 2.5 turns but for drops and any freeride stuff I need about 3 turns. I might just have to adjust based on the terrain. I'm not sure how so many people are have trouble getting full travel. With the base tune I can get full travel off a 2' drop to flat. I'm fairly confident I can get this shock feeling as good or better than my push tuned RC4. So far I'm really enjoying it.

  15. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by finch6013 View Post
    Mine came stock with the recommended chilcotin base tune. I think the base tune is very close, I just had problems bottoming out a lot so I had to up the HSC.
    It sounds like you have the same symptoms my brother is having with bottoming out. My brother and I are the same weight, but he is bottoming his out with the same settings that I have. I believe it's because he has the newer DB AIR can with more port holes. My shock feels absolutely incredible and I'm reluctant to change to the new can because of having to possibly put the volume reducers in to prevent bottoming. That seems to negate the advantages of a large volume shock. I believe in this case the best thing to do is exactly what you are doing by adding more HSC. I only have a 1/4 turn of HSC where my brother needs a lot more due to the newer can. He was getting full travel on small hits as well. I've been extremely happy using the base tune and working slightly from there. My brother hasn't had many rides to date but is likely going to be using different settings even though we are identical weight. Riding style also plays a role.

  16. #291
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    Interesting facts about the different aged shocks and the air volume. I didn't know anything had changed.

  17. #292
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    i'm starting to get it dialed now. still not 100% but way better than in the beginning. but what i found out is that the hs knobs both have more than 25 clicks. i counted 28-30.... anyone experiencing the same?
    anyway, i now have the following
    hsc 0.25
    lsc 14
    hsr 1.5
    lsr 15
    sag 21mm
    rider weight 180lbs

  18. #293
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    So out of curiosity (and lack of time to get out and tune the shock)....

    From the standard settings what changes would you guys recommend trying to get my bike a more lively feeling. I like to pop of every little bump and such and feel the base settings are lacking a bit in this department. I don't mind losing a bit of small bump for a more poppy ride.

  19. #294
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    From stock I'd add a bunch of LSC in. Maybe 4 or 5 clicks. You could also speed up the rebound by a click or so to give it a more lively feeling. If that fails you may need a little more air pressure. I'd crank down the LSC 1st though before you start getting crazy with it.

  20. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    It sounds like you have the same symptoms my brother is having with bottoming out. My brother and I are the same weight, but he is bottoming his out with the same settings that I have. I believe it's because he has the newer DB AIR can with more port holes. My shock feels absolutely incredible and I'm reluctant to change to the new can because of having to possibly put the volume reducers in to prevent bottoming. That seems to negate the advantages of a large volume shock. I believe in this case the best thing to do is exactly what you are doing by adding more HSC. I only have a 1/4 turn of HSC where my brother needs a lot more due to the newer can. He was getting full travel on small hits as well. I've been extremely happy using the base tune and working slightly from there. My brother hasn't had many rides to date but is likely going to be using different settings even though we are identical weight. Riding style also plays a role.

    Hey Guys!

    I know I sound like a broken record here, but there are TWO different topics here:
    1) Air flow between inner and outer air chambers: old shocks may have had issues with this; new shocks shouldn't.
    2) Large volume external chamber: this is a sidegrade, not upgrade and useful for certain frame designs. It is not required for Knolly products (though shoudln't be detrimental either).

    If there is an issue with #1, you'll notice because you're not getting full travel on the shock: you will be missing about the last 8 - 10 mm of travel. You should have the shock serviced by an authorized Cane Creek service centre.

    As far as bottom out resistance, go back to the fundamentals:
    1) Ensure that your air pressure is correct - this is ALWAYS the starting point of shock tuning!
    2) Tune HSC as required to allow you to use all the travel, but not have frequent bottom out issues.

    Cheers!
    Noel Buckley
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    www.knollybikes.com

    Instead of PMs, please contact me here.

  21. #296
    TSC
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    As far as bottom out resistance, go back to the fundamentals:
    1) Ensure that your air pressure is correct - this is ALWAYS the starting point of shock tuning!

    Cheers!
    Something to add: before adjusting sag, put 50 to 75 psi in the shock and slowly cycle the shock through all it's movement. This is necessary to charge the negative air chamber and often is overlooked. (See "To Measure/Set Sag" on page 15--PDF page 16. http://canecreek.com/resources/produ...ers_manual.pdf)
    "sounds like you need to find a better mechanic..." -- Calhoun

  22. #297
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    Just wondering...if a DB Coil weighed the same or less than a DB Air, would anyone still pick the air over the coil based on performance characteristics alone?

    I may need to decide between the two shortly, and since I don't care about weight, I'm wondering which simply works better overall.

  23. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by knollybikes.com View Post
    Hey Guys!

    I know I sound like a broken record here, but there are TWO different topics here:
    1) Air flow between inner and outer air chambers: old shocks may have had issues with this; new shocks shouldn't.
    2) Large volume external chamber: this is a sidegrade, not upgrade and useful for certain frame designs. It is not required for Knolly products (though shoudln't be detrimental either).

    If there is an issue with #1, you'll notice because you're not getting full travel on the shock: you will be missing about the last 8 - 10 mm of travel. You should have the shock serviced by an authorized Cane Creek service centre.

    As far as bottom out resistance, go back to the fundamentals:
    1) Ensure that your air pressure is correct - this is ALWAYS the starting point of shock tuning!
    2) Tune HSC as required to allow you to use all the travel, but not have frequent bottom out issues.

    Cheers!
    Hi Noel,

    Loving your bikes! Just a few things that I'm confused/wondering about...I've got the Podium with DB Coil and Chilcotin with DB Air. My brother also has the DB Air on his Chilcotin. I feel like my Chilcotin with the older air can couldn't be set up any better. It climbs incredible and handles massive drops while being perfectly plush and composed. My brother (same weight) who has the newer air can is bottoming. I know how to dial these things in by charging the negative air chamber and starting with sag (air pressure), and at this point have a really good understanding of making the appropriate adjustments. What I'm curious about is whether the newer can may not be just a "side grade" but a "down grade" for some riders. This is my thought (hopefully I'm wrong). With the same settings that I have my brother is bottoming his out. Dialing in HSC still yields bottom out in which case (I believe) you would need to add volume reducers, but doesn't that defeat the advantages of having a "LARGE volume" shock?

    Thanks!

    Mike
    Last edited by mayha; 05-08-2013 at 07:16 AM.

  24. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    Hi Noel,

    Loving your bikes! Just a few things that I'm confused/wondering about...I've got the Podium with DB Coil and Chilcotin with DB Air. My brother also has the DB Air on his Chilcotin. I feel like my Chilcotin with the older air can couldn't be set up any better. It climbs incredible and handles massive drops with plushness and composure. My brother (same weight) who has the newer air can is bottoming. I know how to dial these things in by charging the negative air chamber and starting with sag (air pressure), and at this point have a really good understanding of making the appropriate adjustments. What I'm curious about is whether the newer can may not be just a "side grade" but a "down grade" for some riders. This is my thought (hopefully I'm wrong). With the same settings as me my brother is bottoming his out. Dialing in HSC still yields bottom out in which case (I believe), you would need to add volume reducers, but doesn't that defeat the advantages of having a "LARGE volume" shock?

    Thanks!

    Mike
    Sorry for butting in, but the upgrade is high flow not volume. High volume is also available as a pay extra. What has your brother got?

  25. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    Sorry for butting in, but the upgrade is high flow not volume. High volume is also available as a pay extra. What has your brother got?
    I realize that it's high flow and not higher volume...What I was referring to was using the "volume reducers" to eliminate bottom out.

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