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Thread: Chilcotin FAQ's

  1. #1
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    Chilcotin FAQ's

    Just picked up my XL frame. I would appreciate some answers to the following

    1. Am I right in thinking that the forward pin position gives the steep head angle?

    2. What needs chasing out/facing?

    3. What FD do you find works best with 2 x 9 and bash?

    4. I have read some reports about problems with CCDB air bushing seals. My frame bushings include some washers just over 1mm thick on both sides of the seals. Is this the "fix" to the issue?

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    i might get the headtube reamed. i had a hard time pressing in my headset and others said they did too. this frame was the hardest to get in or any i have done before. bb was fine. front position is steep

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    My head tube was spot on. Didnt chase the BB threads, but did use an old BB and Park grease before installation of the new(er) BB.

    FD? That's for roadies, right?

    If you dont like the CC shock hardware, pick up a spare set of the stock Fox RP23 hardware and grind to fit.

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    Is the off-center seat tube a thing of the past? Is this a part of quality control for taiwan manufactured frames?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lastug View Post
    Is the off-center seat tube a thing of the past? Is this a part of quality control for taiwan manufactured frames?
    You have pictures?
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by qbert2000 View Post
    i might get the headtube reamed. i had a hard time pressing in my headset and others said they did too. this frame was the hardest to get in or any i have done before. bb was fine. front position is steep
    You forgot to bring spare bolts to your pity party here!
    Nice KOM, sorry about your penis.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrwhlr View Post
    You forgot to bring spare bolts to your pity party here!
    Huh? Not sure how his reply here doesn't meet your approval but it seems like good info to me for anyone that is actually going to build their own bike, which I am most likely doing the next week or so...

  8. #8
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    1. Yes
    2. No
    3. Ditch the FD and go 1x10

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    The first couple headsets I pressed in to first batch fames were very tight. However I just pressed in my own cups from a newer batch and they were smoove. Bb was good.

    F. Der. needs to be a Shimano E2 direct mount. Xt or xtr. Not sure if there is an slx. The E2 part is the important part.

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    Quote: F. Der. needs to be a Shimano E2 direct mount. Xt or xtr. Not sure if there is an slx. The E2 part is the important part.

    What is the difference between E and E2?

  11. #11
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    Chilcotin 2x9 FD

    For 2x9 + bash setup these FD will work fine [approved by Kevin]:

    Shimano XT M770 E-Type 9sp

    Shimano XTR M970 E-Type 9sp
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeBert View Post
    For 2x9 + bash setup these FD will work fine [approved by Kevin]:

    Shimano XT M770 E-Type 9sp

    Shimano XTR M970 E-Type 9sp
    PM'd Dulyebr a few days ago and he is using FD M780 E with his 2 x 9. Ordered from CR yesterday so I hope it works. Its a 3 x 10 FD. If there's a problem with it I will try the XTR M970 E as you suggested. M770 E is out of stock at CR at the moment.

    Thanks for the information.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    PM'd Dulyebr a few days ago and he is using FD M780 E with his 2 x 9. Ordered from CR yesterday so I hope it works. Its a 3 x 10 FD. If there's a problem with it I will try the XTR M970 E as you suggested. M770 E is out of stock at CR at the moment.

    Thanks for the information.
    I was planning to get 3x10 FD myself but I read there could be some problems with setting such FD to work with 3x9 shifters. Let us know what is your friend's experience.
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak View Post
    1. Yes
    2. No
    3. Ditch the FD and go 1x10
    1 x 10 is in my sights. I just wanted to use what I already had to begin with and then change later when parts are available. I believe I can change my Saints to a single ring and then upgrade my mech to the new SRAM type 2 and use the new gripshift. 32 or 34 ring with 11-36 cassette? Not sure if 32 will fit, the spiders might be too long and poke out at the ends?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by loamranger View Post
    PM'd Dulyebr a few days ago and he is using FD M780 E with his 2 x 9. Ordered from CR yesterday so I hope it works. Its a 3 x 10 FD. If there's a problem with it I will try the XTR M970 E as you suggested. M770 E is out of stock at CR at the moment.

    Thanks for the information.
    All info on this thread so far is more or less accurate. The "E2" choices sit lower, and are best for setups without bash rings. A bash-ring helps prevent the chain from squirting out below the FD cage. If you are using a bash, you are better off with "E" selections since those sit a little higher to clear the bash when in the bigger ring.
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    Which size do the bushings have on the Chilcotin? I might get a frame with a RP23 and want to upgrade it with the CCDBA. So I need new bushings for it but can't find the numbers.

  17. #17
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    Fadi
    Reducer/hardware spec: Top 41.2mm x M6 / Bottom 21.8mm x M6

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    Whats the retail price on a Chili frame only in Canuck bucks? With CCDB Coil? With CCDB Air?

    Do the Endo and Chili both use the same e2e shock and stroke length to get different amounts of travel?

    Why is the seat tube angle so slack?

  19. #19
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    No idea on the prices.

    The first gen Endorphin and the Chilcotin both use a 7.875 x 2.25" shock. I don't know what the current Endorphin is, but would not be surprised if it is the same as well.

    The seat tube angle is slack so when you drop the seat it moves more forward and gives you more room to move around on the bike when the going gets tough. It also allows for shorter chainstays.

  20. #20
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    New Endo is the same 200 x 57

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    Quote Originally Posted by BryanS. View Post
    It also allows for shorter chainstays.
    I don't see how that would happen, unless you mean seat stays?

    I didn't really like the feeling I got when doing tech climbing with my Nomad 1.5, it felt like I was going to fall off the back of the saddle, but I think SC has a 71 static seattube angle on that frame. The Norco Range Im currently riding has a 73.5 angle and the climbing position feels good. Just curious how "effective" an effective seat tube angle could really be?

  22. #22
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    Chainstays can be shorter under full compression if the tire does not interfere with seat tube. If the point where the tire would hit the seat tube is slightly forward then you can use a shorter chainstay and still not hit.

    A couple of factors affect seating feel while climbing, your actual seat position and the interaction between chain tension and sag. The off the back feel could be attributed to either one of these.

    If you suspension is sagging too much, then your saddle will be tipped back and you will feel like you are sliding off it. Nearly all bike designs use chain tension while pedaling to reduce the amount of sag, but the amount used varies, as too much will effectively lock out the suspension while climbing and limit the effectiveness of the frame while doing technical climbs, whereas not enough and the suspension will bob like crazy.

    The effective seat tube angle is exactly that, the effective angle for a person on a properly sized bike with the saddle in appropriate position for pedaling. It is measured from the centre of the cranks to the seat position. On a Knolly the location of the seat tube is further forward, but because of the slacker angle, it moves more rearward as you raise the post than a design with the seat tube in line with the bottom bracket. It doesn't really matter where the seat tube exits the frame as long as you can get the seat in the correct position for your needs. The effective seat angle is based on that position.

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    When are the 3D links going to be coming on the Chilis?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by PUNKY View Post
    When are the 3D links going to be coming on the Chilis?
    Couple months for upgrades: Anybody have news from the private unveil at Interbike?

    Not sure when they will show up on new frames though...probably not until existing straight link stock is depleted, since 3D is not required.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big B View Post
    Couple months for upgrades: Anybody have news from the private unveil at Interbike?

    Not sure when they will show up on new frames though...probably not until existing straight link stock is depleted, since 3D is not required.
    if you want to avoid the potential of bent bolts at the shock, 3d is required. there is a reason they did it and that is to remove from the equation bent bolts at the shock. not everyone is bending them but it does happen and when it does during a ride, it is a pia. like it was said in the post by dusty, the shorter bolts are 50% stronger than the original bolts. when you bend one it is a buzzkill. it is nice to see them address and issue and make an upgrade available. hope the upgrade price is reasonable

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