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  1. #1
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    2009 Jamis Dakar XCT 2.0?

    Does anyone have the 09 model xct 2.0? I just ordered one off of jenson and was wondering what people think if of it. I will be using it for a lot of xc type riding, and also dh trails and moderate jumping. I should have it here in probably two weeks (of course I order it memorial day weekend). How does it handle different terrain and elevation, like climbing and rocky descents. A lot of bob when pedaling or no?

    -Tim

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Does anyone have the 09 model xct 2.0? I just ordered one off of jenson and was wondering what people think if of it. I will be using it for a lot of xc type riding, and also dh trails and moderate jumping. I should have it here in probably two weeks (of course I order it memorial day weekend). How does it handle different terrain and elevation, like climbing and rocky descents. A lot of bob when pedaling or no?

    -Tim
    Ha! I just ordered the model 1.0 from Jenson. I figure I'll just upgrade the crank myself and it shouldn't be too bad. Coming from a cheapo motobecane hard tail I am sure it's going to be night and day for me. I'll let you know how it is if I get mine before yours. I ordered it about a week ago. It took the full 3 business days for them to do the build.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoto
    Ha! I just ordered the model 1.0 from Jenson. I figure I'll just upgrade the crank myself and it shouldn't be too bad. Coming from a cheapo motobecane hard tail I am sure it's going to be night and day for me. I'll let you know how it is if I get mine before yours. I ordered it about a week ago. It took the full 3 business days for them to do the build.

    You should definitely get it before I get mine then. Mine will probably ship next Friday, then it will take another 4 days to get here. I ordered it last night and the wait is already killing me, haha. I had the money to spend so I decided to go with the 2.0. I'm coming off of a 2001 P3, so this should be a big difference from me as well. I was using a 400 pound 9 speed P3 for AM type riding..Needless to say hills were pretty brutal and rocky descents were all about picking lines.

    I was orignially going to get Pricepoints sette flight, but they didn't have that in my size anymore. Found this on jenson and it seems like a pretty dam good bike for the money.

    -Tim

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    I am sure you'll love it, you picked up a really good bike with some nice components.

    I saw the "broken" thread before I bought. Someone made mention about a bad weld, but if you look at the picture it did not break on the weld, it broke right on the plate. My bet is that there was probably a bad batch of those plates during manufacture, so it will be interesting to see how they hold up.

    I have been riding my current bike as hard as I can, so I can get a full appreciation for the new one when it arrives. I am really looking forward to it!

  5. #5
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    I got mine yesterday. Haven't had it on the trail yet, but got it all dialed in last night after work. I am definitely going to have to upgrade the crank I don't see it lasting very long. Other than that, very nice, I am sure you will be super pleased with the 2.0!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoto
    I got mine yesterday. Haven't had it on the trail yet, but got it all dialed in last night after work. I am definitely going to have to upgrade the crank I don't see it lasting very long. Other than that, very nice, I am sure you will be super pleased with the 2.0!

    That's good news, where's the pics dudeman? My delivery date is scheduled for Tuesday, so I have a few days to wait yet. Post up a little report after the first ride also.

    -Tim

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    That's good news, where's the pics dudeman? My delivery date is scheduled for Tuesday, so I have a few days to wait yet. Post up a little report after the first ride also.

    -Tim
    Will do both soon!

  8. #8
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    Wow

    All I can say is wow. After riding a hard-tail "comfort" bike through the woods getting on this bike is like night and day.

    It was a pretty easy setup, although the derailleurs needed to be completely re-adjusted from scratch. I don't know what level of setup they do at Jensen, but I would have preferred they just chucked the derailleurs and cables in the box then half-ass them like that. I was also a little surprised that they decided to use 100 PSI for pressure for both the shock and forks. Call me a fat ass but I really don't think that the average rider is going to be happy with that. Maybe it has something to do with shipping? I dunno. Other than that, the only thing I did was a lizard skin and diamond grips (after 15 years of using domino grips on dirtbikes, I just can't cope with anything else.)

    It rides REALLY nice. Granted I am pretty biased because this is one of the nicest bikes I have ever ridden, but still, I can't be more happy with it. It handles the rocks and roots like they aren't even there. Uphills are a ton easier now that I am not pedaling an M1. I have a funny feeling my lard ass is going to bust that crank in two. It's the cheezy fsa alpha drive. I just hope it breaks close to the car or home.

    Anyways, here's the pics. It was getting dark so the flash kicked in and screwed up the lighting, but you'll get the idea.





  9. #9
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    Looks great dude, glad you're liking it.

    How well were the brakes bled from new?

    Do you need a special pump for the shock?

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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Looks great dude, glad you're liking it.

    How well were the brakes bled from new?

    Do you need a special pump for the shock?
    Yeah I just picked up a hand held suspension pump for 30 bucks. It's crappy but gets the job done.

    the brakes do feel a LITTLE spongy, but to be honest, I don't know if that's me or the brakes. I know a cool dirtbike trick you can do if there are air in the lines is to zip tie the brakes in the "on" position overnight and sometimes air bubbles can travel to the highest point which is your reservoir so I may try that just to see if there is a difference.

  11. #11
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    Yeah, it might work. I don't think those brakes even have a reservoir do they? I am good at bleeding the brakes on my mx bike, so these shouldn't be any different really. Does the bike seem sturdy/strong? I will be riding dh trails occasionly, and might take it to diablo to give that a go. I'm a pretty smooth rider (I think), so hopefully it holds up fine.

  12. #12
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    ha! that's a good question.... I imagine they do have one though, I dunno!! It's not clearly obvious if they do or not to me.

    Yeah, it definitely feels solid to me.

  13. #13
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    A few more pictures, better lighting and the removal of about a half a pound of worthless stickers:




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    Can you tell me the size of the rear shock perchance? Jamis doesn't list it on their site and I had just ordered one of these but found a sweet deal on Ebay for a Fox Float RP23, for what I believe to be the correct size, 6.5".

    JensonUSA was no help.

    Also, I'll need to figure out where I can get the new mounting hardware...

  15. #15
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    Sweet bike, BTW

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    Quote Originally Posted by theskidish
    Can you tell me the size of the rear shock perchance? Jamis doesn't list it on their site and I had just ordered one of these but found a sweet deal on Ebay for a Fox Float RP23, for what I believe to be the correct size, 6.5".

    JensonUSA was no help.

    Also, I'll need to figure out where I can get the new mounting hardware...
    Did you try calling/emailing jamis? They'll probably be the ones to send you in the right direction for hardware too.

    What's the difference betwen the xct frames and the sixfifty frames? Only difference I found was the xct has a slacker ht angle.
    Last edited by T174M; 06-06-2010 at 12:25 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Did you try calling/emailing jamis? They'll probably be the ones to send you in the right direction for hardware too.

    What's the difference betwen the xct frames and the sixfifty frames?
    Yeah, it seems like Jamis makes a point NOT to include their number on the site and simply defer people to the dealers for questions, however, I keep getting conflicting answers from my dealer on the actual size.

    Oh well, I can just wait and measure it myself, not sure on the differences between the XCT and sixfifty frames.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by theskidish
    Yeah, it seems like Jamis makes a point NOT to include their number on the site and simply defer people to the dealers for questions, however, I keep getting conflicting answers from my dealer on the actual size.

    Oh well, I can just wait and measure it myself, not sure on the differences between the XCT and sixfifty frames.
    I believe the rear shock is 130mm (5 inch) of travel, but I have a feeling your looking for the eye to eye length right?

  19. #19
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    Yeap, that's the one I need.

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    Sorry for the delay. Eye-to-eye is 7 7/8"

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoto
    Sorry for the delay. Eye-to-eye is 7 7/8"
    Awesomeness, thanks for the info.

    Once again my intuition fails me, not even close to 6.5".

  22. #22
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    Jamis XCT

    hey all
    i picked up an XCT 1.0 up about 2 months ago, it is by far the best bike i have ever ridden. I feel a lot of bike companies will hop on board and copy this style of all mountain/XC rig. So far i upgraded the tires from the geax2.0" to some eskara 2.3". and the brakes, to a juicy 5. It climbs like a hard tail and descends like a downhill, i notice no pedal bob when dialed in properly and this things soaks up everything! Ive put over 300km on this bike already, and feel like it is riding better everyday. Do yourself a favour and go test ride some specialized, gary fisher, giant bikes then ride the jamis xct, and you will notice this bike is on a different level from the others!
    Thanks

  23. #23
    fyl
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    Hi, I am planning to build a bike with some used parts Dakar XCT 2.0 2009 frame with SLX groupset with a Rock Shox Recon SL 85-130mm U-Turn.

    I have been reading a bit of reviews about the XCT and it seems that there are some complaints of pedal bob as well as it being not a very good climber. Can some XCT users provide some feedback around this ? How is the Fox Float R that comes with the frame with this regard ?

    Tq
    Last edited by fyl; 06-07-2010 at 10:29 AM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by fyl
    Hi, I am planning to build a bike with some used parts Dakar XCT 2.0 2009 frame with SLX groupset with a Rock Shox Recon SL 85-130mm U-Turn.

    I have been reading a bit of reviews about the XCT and it seems that there are some complaints of pedal bob as well as it being not a very good climber. Can some XCT users provide some feedback around this ? How is the Fox Float R that comes with the frame with this regard ?

    Tq
    I just rode a 2009 Dakar XCT 1.0 through all the trails at Tsali, and I have to say that the only time I ever noticed any pedal bob whatsoever was when I was climbing out of the saddle. But as soon as I planted back down I hardly noticed any. Towards the end of the trip I learned to just stay seated and jam on the pedals in an easier gear, and that seemed to work much better for the bike. This was my first extended experience with a full suspension rig (I rode a Spec Rockhopper for a few years prior), and I must say even though I know it was more weight, that my legs actually felt less tired at the end of the ride than they normally do.

    So take my review with a grain of salt because I haven't had much experience with a full suspension bike.

    The girlfriend offered a new rear shock as a bday gift so I am looking to upgrade it to a Fox Float RP23 which I've heard that with the propedal activated it makes a noticeable difference, we shall see.

    Also, also, for anyone else who may be interested the rear shock sizing is as follows:

    Eye to Eye- 200mm/7.875''
    Stroke- 50mm/1.97''
    Mounting Hardware- 10mm x 22.4mm Front, 10mm x 22.2mm Rear

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by theskidish
    I just rode a 2009 Dakar XCT 1.0 through all the trails at Tsali, and I have to say that the only time I ever noticed any pedal bob whatsoever was when I was climbing out of the saddle. But as soon as I planted back down I hardly noticed any. Towards the end of the trip I learned to just stay seated and jam on the pedals in an easier gear, and that seemed to work much better for the bike. This was my first extended experience with a full suspension rig (I rode a Spec Rockhopper for a few years prior), and I must say even though I know it was more weight, that my legs actually felt less tired at the end of the ride than they normally do.

    So take my review with a grain of salt because I haven't had much experience with a full suspension bike.
    Good to hear someone's pumped on the ride. Mine should be here tomorrow so hopefully I can get some riding in this week or weekend.

  26. #26
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    Just took mine out again. I also don't notice pedal bobbing unless I am out of the saddle and really pedaling hard (mind you, I do have my suspension set to my weight too, which is in the fatboy range). I managed to rake the right pedal across a rock and rip out half of the little pegs. No big deal because I wasn't too crazy about the pedals anyways, now I have an excuse to buy new ones. I also raked the rear rotor across a rock and there was only cosmetic damage. I need to get out of "dirtbike" mode and start picking more sensible lines. It's hard to not pick the nastiest line there is on this bike though, I am loving how it just soaks up everything.

  27. #27
    fyl
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    Great to hear feedback that pedal bob is not obvious. I usually climb while seated so, it should be ok for me. Will try it out and share my experience.

    Thanks.

  28. #28
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    Well,

    Fedex gave me a little present today. Bike came and got it together with no issues other than jenson forgetting to toss the rear quick release in. I put on some platform pedals instead of the clip ones, and I'm going to need some smaller set screws for these babies as they are a little to shin destroying for me. I set the sag in the rear shock, and added some air to the front. What is an acceptable psi level in the front for 160lb dude? it still seems a little soft to me, and I can't seem to find the compression adjustment.

    Here is the bike. I took off the large chainring(never used it previously), and put on a bashguard that I made.




    Only got to ride it in the yard/around the block so far, and I am pretty pleased with how it fits me, feels. This weekend I will take it to the trails to get a good feel of how it rides. Only thing I noticed was it does seem to dive a little on sharp cornering, but that could just be because I have to get used to a longer travel fork or something.

  29. #29
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    Man, those are some PURDY forks!! Makes me kinda wish I went for the 2.0!!!

    For 160 lbs, I would start with 160PSI (both front and rear) and go up or down from there based on how it feels, although you might get other advise on here.

    Judging how mine was (100 PSI front and rear) your issue with diving might be that it's just too damn soft. Check the pressure and see, it's night and day when set up properly. I don't know what fork you have, but mine only has a rebound adjustment, no compression adjustment.

    Awesome looking bike, great color too! Those look like the same pedals that I ripped the spikes out of, but mine had the pressed in spikes, not the threaded ones.

    I like how your tires don't have a big huge internet address on the side of them like mine do. LOL

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoto
    Man, those are some PURDY forks!! Makes me kinda wish I went for the 2.0!!!

    For 160 lbs, I would start with 160PSI (both front and rear) and go up or down from there based on how it feels, although you might get other advise on here.

    Judging how mine was (100 PSI front and rear) your issue with diving might be that it's just too damn soft. Check the pressure and see, it's night and day when set up properly. I don't know what fork you have, but mine only has a rebound adjustment, no compression adjustment.

    Awesome looking bike, great color too! Those look like the same pedals that I ripped the spikes out of, but mine had the pressed in spikes, not the threaded ones.

    I like how your tires don't have a big huge internet address on the side of them like mine do. LOL

    I set the sag in the rear, forget what psi it's at...I'm guessing if the sag is right, the psi has to be right. The front (marzocchi bombers 44 ata) had like 50psi in it, and I pumped it up to 75psi and still feels soft. I wasn't sure how much air these forks could handle, I'll try putting some more in the forks. These forks don't have a compression adjustment either, or atleast I can't find it.

    How long did your brakes take to break in? The stopping power is still pretty weak right now.

    -Tim

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    Ok,

    Bumped the front up to 140psi, and the rear is at 150psi. Thing feels pretty darn good riding around right now, can't wait to hit the trial. Hitting a roller at speed behind my house I can get the rubber o ring almost all the way down the shock..Is this normal or should I put some more air in it? Other than that it looks like it moved pretty far through its travel over something pretty small, it feels good.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Ok,

    Bumped the front up to 140psi, and the rear is at 150psi. Thing feels pretty darn good riding around right now, can't wait to hit the trial. Hitting a roller at speed behind my house I can get the rubber o ring almost all the way down the shock..Is this normal or should I put some more air in it? Other than that it looks like it moved pretty far through its travel over something pretty small, it feels good.
    If a little roller is pushing the o-ring all the way down, I would try more air, personally. It's really your personal choice, and what you like to ride and how you ride it. You don't want it bottoming out on something that is average for your riding, that's for sure. You can do the same trick on the fork with a piece of string or a small zip tie that the oring does on the shock as a temporary thing to see what you are getting for travel on the front.

    As an example (don't laugh) I am 220 lbs and I have 210 PSI front and rear and it's a little on the soft side. I don't do big drops either so it's nice and plush for most of my riding.

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    Didn't see your brake question. The brakes took about 10 miles to break in and start really grabbing.

    Also, you should have books for the forks that came in the box from Jenson (at least I did). The max pressure on those forks should be pretty high. My cheaper ones the manual says 200+ psi. It doesn't give a maximum pressure so you should be fine going up more if you want to. Just check your book, I bet it is in there.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by camoto
    If a little roller is pushing the o-ring all the way down, I would try more air, personally. It's really your personal choice, and what you like to ride and how you ride it. You don't want it bottoming out on something that is average for your riding, that's for sure. You can do the same trick on the fork with a piece of string or a small zip tie that the oring does on the shock as a temporary thing to see what you are getting for travel on the front.

    As an example (don't laugh) I am 220 lbs and I have 210 PSI front and rear and it's a little on the soft side. I don't do big drops either so it's nice and plush for most of my riding.
    Yeah, I'm going to wait until I hit a good trail to start messing with it..No sense now as I don't know how it will ride over the real stuff. As of now I feel like I have it in a pretty good starting point. Gotta put that bash guard I made to some use and abuse now!

    Kind of random but, can you run front lower rollers on a dual ring setup?

    Here's another picture for the hell of it:


    EDIT: Camoto, I checked the zoke book and to be honest it's pretty vague. It is the manual for like 5 different forks in 5 different languages.

  35. #35
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    Schweet color on your bike.

    From the designs I've seen on my friends bikes with front lower rollers, they are in a fixed position and wouldn't be able to travel with the derailleur.

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    Got some more seat time on the xct these past two days. With the suspension aired up more it rides way better. Rode some road/easy trails so far. On the road this bike is even surprisingly nice to ride. I also noticed no bob unless I'm standing up pedaling which even then it was pretty minimal. I also noticed the lockout on the fork is either on or off, regardless of the little setting on the lockout mechanism (maybe I just didn't notice it through the middle settings). I ordered a 65mm stem as the 100mm is way too long for my liking.

    Will post up after I ride some more aggressive trails and see how it fares.

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    Nice, glad you are liking it! I ended up getting new pedals, welgo b67's and have a nice ride planned for saturday, looking forward to it!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoto
    Nice, glad you are liking it! I ended up getting new pedals, welgo b67's and have a nice ride planned for saturday, looking forward to it!!
    Yeah same. My bike came with clip in pedals from the factory, so I had a set of platform pedals (DMR v12 mag pedals) lined up to throw on there when I got it. Really loving these pedals. I want to get some short pins to thread in there though as the current ones are nasty.

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    Another little update:

    Finally rode some REAL trails today (only about 3 or 4 miles though, didn't want to run out of light), and I am loving this bike. The stem is definitley way too long for my liking, I felt uncomfortable on the long steep descents with such a long stem. Only other problem I have is keeping the front end down on longer/steeper climbs (probably myinproper riding technique though). I also need a lizard skin or something to quit down my chain rattling against my frame.


    Also, as far as transporting the bike goes. Is it bad to lock-out the fork, and tie the bike down in the bed of my truck to the handlebars? Is pulling down on the front end semi-tight for longer periods of time while the fork is locked-out a bad idea?
    -Tim

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    Good question on the fork. I wouldn't think you would need to cinch it THAT tight anyways, but maybe a better question for the general forums. They do make a bracket that bolts to the bed of your truck and you could clip in the fork like a skewer that way instead.

    I also did a ride this weekend. Found that the tires are not quite right for the trails around here. Ended up getting a new pair and hopefully they will fare a little better (and not have the stupid enormous logo on the side)

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    Slapped on some new tires. The 2.35's definitely are going to have some more bite than the 2.2's. And the higher volume let's me run lower pressures.


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    Sick tires, let me know how you like them. I'm pretty pleased with the ones that came on my bike, both are 2.35's also. I put a 65mm 10 deg rise stem on and it has also made a world of difference in the ride on this thing. I'm not a fan of the long xc style stems, and going from a 100mm to 65mm was definitely the perfect fit for me.

    Those tires change the whole look of your bike, they look sweet.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Sick tires, let me know how you like them. I'm pretty pleased with the ones that came on my bike, both are 2.35's also. I put a 65mm 10 deg rise stem on and it has also made a world of difference in the ride on this thing. I'm not a fan of the long xc style stems, and going from a 100mm to 65mm was definitely the perfect fit for me.

    Those tires change the whole look of your bike, they look sweet.
    I don't have too much of an issue with the stem, but I have orangutan arms, so maybe that's the difference!

    These are the Kenda Nevegals with the stick-e. I am curious to see how they do in the wet, because those other tires were awful and I was sliding off of every root and rock and I couldn't run the pressure low enough at my weight.

    I am also going to ditch the outer front ring for a bash guard and putting on a 185mm front rotor. Maybe I should just starve myself for a month or two instead... LOL

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    Yeah, my tires kicked out over a lot of roots when I hit them at speed in the wet (it had just started pouring when I rode). I figured that was normal and I just am not used to riding on quickly-turned-wet terrain.

    I am 6'1 160(pretty lanky), and the 100mm stem just had me leaning over too far. I like more of an upright riding position, and it made it much easier for me to get over the rear of the bike while going down. That may stem (pun intended) from the style that I have acquired from ringing the crap out of a 125 around the mx track though. What is a normal psi to run on really rocky/rooted trails?

    Do you need a bracket for the caliper to run a larger rotor? I was thinking about upgrading my front rotor too as I already bent it up pretty good.

    On the bash guard...I definitely think it's more suitable for trail riding than the outer sprocket. I will throw the big front sprocket on if I'm riding fire roads or the actual roads...Not used in the woods for me as I don't think I will ever be pedaling that fast going down, and am sure not strong enough to use it going up. It also gave me an excuse to throw another one of the bash guards I made on another one of my bikes.

    This year I'm looking to make some more bash guards, and maybe a couple stems.

  45. #45
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    Yeah, for the brakes there's a bracket for 185 and 215. Search jenson for AVID CPS. I am pretty sure your fork has the IS mount so it's the IS to 185mm bracket (it's about 10 bucks).

    With the 2.35's at your weight you might be able to get away with less than 30psi, it's all a matter of personal debate, but if you aren't riding anything paved and mainly on the trail, I would say (and everyone else has been telling me) as low as you can go without pinch-flatting. I am always afraid of flats, so I tend to go a little higher than I should. I put the thicker tubes in these tires, so I can work my way lower with less fear of pinching them. I aired these ones up to 35 and they seem perfect but I haven't been on the trail with them yet, I just mounted them up tonight. I'll go lower than 35 if I can.

    Did you ever do enduro/harescramble riding on the 125? Other than the pedaling, it's very similar to me!

  46. #46
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    Put some more seat time on it and I'm still loving it. I softened up the forks a little, and took some of the pressure out of the tires and the changes have improved the bikes riding more. I have no complaints with it yet.

    Here is where I have been riding:

    I just took this because I like how the trail dipped out of the woods and swerves through the treeline/field for a little bit.


    Here is a little 2 to 3 foot drop, kinda hard to tell from the picture. The suspension soaked up the landing well, which is into a pretty rooty little area.


    Here is part of a nasty uphill that I fail to make it up everytime thus far...It is a lot more fun running this trail the opposite way and hitting it as a downhill.


    I need to get a lizard skin or something to quit the chain down from slapping my frame.

    -Tim

  47. #47
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    That looks like some nice riding!!

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    Another little update after more ride time:

    Bike has still taken everything I can throw at it. I noticed paint chipping on the underside of the frame right behind the front sprockets (from the chain slapping I guess), so I threw some more tape on there. Should I remove some links from the chain if I took off the larger ring?

    I have been getting better at climbing with this bike, just need to figure it out a little more so I don't either slide the rear out, or do a wheelie. I have hit a few drops up to about 5ft on it now and it's not complaining at all. At this point I am very happy with my purchase..I may be upgrading the brakes soon, or at least getting an oversize front rotor to see if that helps improve braking a bit.

  49. #49
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    Sounds like you are enjoying it! I also am removing my outer ring, so that's a good question. Obviously you don't have to remove links, but if you do that would prevent you from ever putting it back on without a chain swap.

    I ended up getting the 185 front rotor for just a little more bite in front, I haven't put it on yet so I can't give any feedback on it.

  50. #50
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    I might as well whore this thread up some more...


    Pictures from today's ride. Blue Hills. Most of it is just flat path, but there are a few gnarly sections (at least I think they are):

    No bikes allowed on this one. Probably a good thing for me! LOL






  51. #51
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    Anyone using those rear bike carrier with this bike ? Eg. Thule Freeway 968 ?

    Thinking of getting one but not sure if it will fit well with the angled and rather tight spacing between top and bottom tube.

    And any recommendation on bottle cages that will fit this frame ? Thanks.
    Last edited by fyl; 07-01-2010 at 08:24 PM.

  52. #52
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    I just toss mine in the back of my truck. Only thing I would see that might be a problem with a rear carrier is the fact that the cables run under the top tube, so you'd be resting on them during travel (not sure if that is actually a problem or not). As far as bottle cages go There seems to be plenty of room for one in both of the mounting spots.

  53. #53
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    Hi guys,

    My xct is developing some kind of freeplay from the rear suspension link areas though can't be certain which specific point although most likely at the end of the rp shock.

    When I lift the bike by the saddle a bit and then drops its, I can feel the freeplay (movement although not due to shock absorbing impact) No sound or can't feel any different when I am on the saddle though. All the allen screws seems tight.

    Anyone have similar issue ? Just wondering if it is normal or I need to have it checked.

    cheers

    fy
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    Jamis setup

    Hi I recieved the 09 xct 2.0 from jenson two weeks ago, I ride eastern alot of rocks and roots, I changet tires and setup as tubeless, Im runing 60 lbs in fork and 110 lbs in rear shock my weight is 150 lbs. My rear suspenshion bolts were loose after 50 miles so I recomment you check them. Its a good ride at 1400 dollars Im well pleased.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by fyl
    Hi guys,

    My xct is developing some kind of freeplay from the rear suspension link areas though can't be certain which specific point although most likely at the end of the rp shock.

    When I lift the bike by the saddle a bit and then drops its, I can feel the freeplay (movement although not due to shock absorbing impact) No sound or can't feel any different when I am on the saddle though. All the allen screws seems tight.

    Anyone have similar issue ? Just wondering if it is normal or I need to have it checked.

    cheers

    fy
    Definitely sounds like play in the bushings. If you hold it still and pull up on the saddle, gently rocking the weight off and on the bike, you should be able to feel the play if it's at all loose. My KHS 4 bar had the same issue chronically. The only real solution is a new bushing kit. If it's barely there you can probably put it off for a while, maybe order the kit and have it ready to go.

    Kind of a common problem, especially if the linkage hardware is a little cheaper and you ride the bike hard. How long have you been riding the bike?

    ProTip: Shimming it with a beer can will not make the problem go away.

  56. #56
    fyl
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob
    Definitely sounds like play in the bushings. If you hold it still and pull up on the saddle, gently rocking the weight off and on the bike, you should be able to feel the play if it's at all loose. My KHS 4 bar had the same issue chronically. The only real solution is a new bushing kit. If it's barely there you can probably put it off for a while, maybe order the kit and have it ready to go.

    Kind of a common problem, especially if the linkage hardware is a little cheaper and you ride the bike hard. How long have you been riding the bike?

    ProTip: Shimming it with a beer can will not make the problem go away.
    Thanks for the advice. I have been riding for about 9 months. Would I have to change the entire kit or just the ones that have freeplay ?

    Its not too bad at the moment but and the freeplay is there (slight say 0.2 cm) when i pull on the saddle.

  57. #57
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    I would check the shock bushings first - your LBS may be able to replace these as they're fairly standard.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by jleebo
    I would check the shock bushings first - your LBS may be able to replace these as they're fairly standard.
    That was what I did. My LBS didn't have the shock bushing in stock, so instead they slip in a aluminum piece to to tighten it up. No more free play

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by fyl
    That was what I did. My LBS didn't have the shock bushing in stock, so instead they slip in a aluminum piece to to tighten it up. No more free play

    Not the beer can! Don't say I didn't warn you!

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillyBob
    Not the beer can! Don't say I didn't warn you!
    Err, I don't know what they used though. What about the beer can and what will happen ?

  61. #61
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    Hi.. I am considering ordering one.
    what assembly do you have to do when you buy it from Jensen on this bike?
    Is the size guide based on rider height get you the correct fitment so far?

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    Hi assembly requires disk brake rotors, rear derailleur, seatpost, wheelset, and a few other things, Front fork and shock are installed on the bike. Im 5 foot 11 and I like a larger frame than most because I cane off a 29er so I ordered a 21 frame, I think 20 would of been ideal, so I think the frame sizing from Jamis is correct, If your 6 foot you can use a large or xl depends on your preference. Its a very nice bike for the money, you cant go wrond.

  63. #63
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    Hi assembly requires disk brake rotors, rear derailleur, seatpost, wheelset, and a few other things, Front fork and shock are installed on the bike. Im 5 foot 11 and I like a larger frame than most because I cane off a 29er so I ordered a 21 frame, I think 20 would of been ideal, so I think the frame sizing from Jamis is correct, If your 6 foot you can use a large or xl depends on your preference. Its a very nice bike for the money, you cant go wrong

  64. #64
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    Why the beer can doesn't work

    Quote Originally Posted by fyl
    Err, I don't know what they used though. What about the beer can and what will happen ?
    Probably nothing to panic about, but in my experience it is at best a very temporary band aid, and at worst it can damage the shock. The piece-of-a-beer-can is the classic garage fix for this loosening problem, and the more official sounding "aluminum shim" is the bike shop's version of the same thing. It makes me think the bike shop is either not that great or not that interested expending the effort to really help you (which also makes them not so great, hmm).

    The problem is, the shock eye is designed for a snug bushing that contacts the surface evenly - one (near) perfect circle inside another. Think about what happened - the bushing wore down, probably becoming ovaled or otherwise out-of-round, right? The shock eye is still round, and the extra space is where the play is. Even if the shim is well-cut, it will never make it perfectly round again, because you are taking an imperfect circle (the worn bushing) and covering it evenly with an extra layer of metal. As you ride your bike, that shim is going to move around, wearing down itself and the bushing, which will make the problem recur, requiring a bigger shim or a new bushing. The bad part is that the hard edges of the shim are rubbing and wearing against the inside of the eye of the shock as this happens.

    What you need is a new bushing that is designed to perfectly fill that shock eye. The sooner you do it, the less the risk of wear on the shock itself. You will eventually need to do it anyway, so I would pay for it now and protect the more expensive parts. I imagine the bushing kit is pretty cheap.

    Hope this helps. I just think it's a bad idea in general to spend $2k+ on a bike and then use duct tape and beer cans to "fix" it. Hey we've all done it, but it's something you do in a pinch when you are out on a ride, not something you pay for from a professional mechanic!

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    Hi guys.....I bought the 09 jamis xct 3.0 about 2 months ago from Jenson and I cannot say one bad thing about this bike........

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02blkvert
    Hi guys.....I bought the 09 jamis xct 3.0 about 2 months ago from Jenson and I cannot say one bad thing about this bike........
    Same here - same exact bike, about the same time. I really dig it. I sold a Turner RFX and was expecting to notice a downgrade, but so far I love it. Light weight, just enough travel, and the slack head angle makes it a very fast descender. I really like the fork, I use the talas all the time to steepen it up a bit for climbing. The brakes are not the best on the planet but they are certainly good enough for all mountain riding.

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    I'm really considering the Dakar 2.0 from Jenson. I've enjoyed reading the posts regarding it. Someone push me over the edge and tell me to buy it. =) I'm concerned about pedal bob and climbing ability. I'm also concerned that the slack head angle will impair tight turns. But it's such a solid bike and a great deal now. Bike Mag gave it a pretty good review, but had some concerns.

    Everyone has had good things to say about...someone has to be unhappy???? Are you guys still happy with it? Thanks!

  68. #68
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    I got the 2.0 from Jenson a few weeks ago and I've been riding it several times a week since then. It really is an awesome bike, especially for the price I paid. Coming off a very lightweight hardtail it does feel a little heavy on long climbs but I really don't notice any pedal bob at all. The only real complaint I have is the brakes. The juicy 3's simply suck, so I will probably upgrade them soon. I've already done a few upgrades that have really improved the feel of the bike (SLX double crankset w/ bash guard, SLX front derailleur, some other small stuff). If you want a very solid all around bike and a great platform for future upgrades, you really can't go wrong.

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by aikendrum
    I'm really considering the Dakar 2.0 from Jenson. I've enjoyed reading the posts regarding it. Someone push me over the edge and tell me to buy it. =) I'm concerned about pedal bob and climbing ability. I'm also concerned that the slack head angle will impair tight turns. But it's such a solid bike and a great deal now. Bike Mag gave it a pretty good review, but had some concerns.

    Everyone has had good things to say about...someone has to be unhappy???? Are you guys still happy with it? Thanks!
    I've been riding the same 2002 Dakar Comp all these years. Aside from wearing out tires, the only work I've had to do to it was replace two bearings in the rear suspension and bleed the brakes. I'm happy with it and am looking to upgrade to the 2011 Dakar XCR Race in the future.
    09 Jamis XCT2 Marzocchi RC3 ti forks, XT/XTR drivetrain, Mavic Crossrides/ Kenda Nevegal DTC=29lbs

  70. #70
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    I had my xct 3.0 weighed the other day and it was about 30lbs......any suggestions on how to reduce this weight to about 28 lbs without breaking the bank?

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    They raised the price of the XCT 1.0 back up to $949

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02blkvert
    I had my xct 3.0 weighed the other day and it was about 30lbs......any suggestions on how to reduce this weight to about 28 lbs without breaking the bank?
    lighter tires, 1x9, lighter saddle and pedals might do it. but the only thing your really gonna notice is taking weight off the wheels.

  73. #73
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    I have a question for you guys, I have a xct 1.0 I lost the little key that locks the from suspension, any ideas where I can get it?

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triumph87
    They raised the price of the XCT 1.0 back up to $949

    Did Jenson have it for $799 once upon a time? I almost bought one, any idea when thry'll drop the price back down?

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    Jamis Dakar 2.0 Problems

    Just wondering if anyone has had any problems with there Jamis Dakar? Bought the Dakar 2.0 from Jenson in August, have ridden it maybe 15 times and have had some issues. My bottome bracket is shot (though not surprised, since it is very low-end). However, the big issue is that my bike has already developed some play with the rear shock. Took it to my LBS and they said it has to do with the bushings. Also, according to the LBS, my swingarm is too wide by almost an inch (tough time getting the rear wheel set). Jamis is sending a new swing arm assembly, but I think the play in the rear shock is going to be a chronic issue.

    Don't want to shim it with anything, it shouldn't be wearing out after only a handful of rides. Just wondering if anyone else is having the same problems.

    Oh yeah...don't know if this problem lies with Jenson or Jamis, but also had to have my rear hub rebuilt after only a couple rides.

    Nothing but frustrations so far.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjelk99
    Just wondering if anyone has had any problems with there Jamis Dakar? Bought the Dakar 2.0 from Jenson in August, have ridden it maybe 15 times and have had some issues. My bottome bracket is shot (though not surprised, since it is very low-end). However, the big issue is that my bike has already developed some play with the rear shock. Took it to my LBS and they said it has to do with the bushings. Also, according to the LBS, my swingarm is too wide by almost an inch (tough time getting the rear wheel set). Jamis is sending a new swing arm assembly, but I think the play in the rear shock is going to be a chronic issue.

    Don't want to shim it with anything, it shouldn't be wearing out after only a handful of rides. Just wondering if anyone else is having the same problems.

    Oh yeah...don't know if this problem lies with Jenson or Jamis, but also had to have my rear hub rebuilt after only a couple rides.

    Nothing but frustrations so far.
    I just ordered my XCT 2 from jensonusa a few days ago, but I didn't opt for the pro-build. Hopefully they will ship me the bike untouched and I can assemble it myself and avoid any issues relating to improper assembly.

    I am curious as to what was left for you to put together after jenson shipped you the bike?
    09 Jamis XCT2 Marzocchi RC3 ti forks, XT/XTR drivetrain, Mavic Crossrides/ Kenda Nevegal DTC=29lbs

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacklab75
    Did Jenson have it for $799 once upon a time? I almost bought one, any idea when thry'll drop the price back down?
    I missed the $799.00 as well. I was told that the price would not drop again until after Christmas, and I did not want to chance them running out of 21" frame size.

    So I paid the $949.00, but no sales tax, free assembly and free shipping it is still a heck of a deal I think.

    I live in NC and ordered on 11-15-2010 and FedEx dropped it off on the 20th! And that was their "slow" free shipping option.

    I rode it for the 1st time yesterday and I love it, so much better than my old bike. 1st upgrade will be the tires.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quicksilver77
    I just ordered my XCT 2 from jensonusa a few days ago, but I didn't opt for the pro-build. Hopefully they will ship me the bike untouched and I can assemble it myself and avoid any issues relating to improper assembly.

    I am curious as to what was left for you to put together after jenson shipped you the bike?

    Yeah I was a little confused with the pro build too. My bike came basically like every other bike that comes into the bike shop to be assembled.

    Mine had the bottom bracket/cranks/spindle assembled, and the fork and stem on the bike. The levers and shifters were on the bars but not on the bike. I had to put bars on, wheels, pedals, seat...Then it was ready to roll.

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Yeah I was a little confused with the pro build too. My bike came basically like every other bike that comes into the bike shop to be assembled.

    Mine had the bottom bracket/cranks/spindle assembled, and the fork and stem on the bike. The levers and shifters were on the bars but not on the bike. I had to put bars on, wheels, pedals, seat...Then it was ready to roll.
    Mine just arrived today and it was packaged the same as yours. I went over the bike and found the rear wheel bearings slightly overtightened and I had to adjust the brake calipers so they didn't rub. Aside from that stuff everything looks good.

    I am however, a little upset with the bottle mounts. The upper mount is in a spot where its completely useless. My bottles are too large to fit. Why Jamis didn't stick it on the bottom of the top tube is beyond me. And the lower mount is on a curved section of the tube. My old mount is no good there either.

    I am wondering what the weight of the Nevegals is that come on the XCT 2? I read a review somewhere that said I could drop 2 lbs on this bike just by switching to the folding bead Nevegals.
    09 Jamis XCT2 Marzocchi RC3 ti forks, XT/XTR drivetrain, Mavic Crossrides/ Kenda Nevegal DTC=29lbs

  80. #80
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    Now my bike has developed the rear shock play issue. I disassembled the rear shock to find that the shock is not pivoting on the sleeve, but that the sleeve is pivoting on the mount bolt. The sleeve fits in the shock so tight it does not move and the sleeve has worn into the pivot arm. From what I can tell the shock should be pivoting on the sleeve. Is this correct?
    09 Jamis XCT2 Marzocchi RC3 ti forks, XT/XTR drivetrain, Mavic Crossrides/ Kenda Nevegal DTC=29lbs

  81. #81
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    Jamis Dakar 2.0 Problems

    Yes...I believe you are correct. My LBS told me that the mounting bolt was manufactured slightly too small and that there is no easy fix. I have heard of shims being placed, but that is only temporary. My LBS is currently trying to get the problem resolved with Jamis. I am VERY, VERY unhappy with my purchase. The newest development is with my front shock. It is shot, must be a seal or something. I've only ridden the thing about 10 times!!! If I could do it all over again, probably wouldn't buy a Jamis.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjelk99
    Yes...I believe you are correct. My LBS told me that the mounting bolt was manufactured slightly too small and that there is no easy fix. I have heard of shims being placed, but that is only temporary. My LBS is currently trying to get the problem resolved with Jamis. I am VERY, VERY unhappy with my purchase. The newest development is with my front shock. It is shot, must be a seal or something. I've only ridden the thing about 10 times!!! If I could do it all over again, probably wouldn't buy a Jamis.
    OK, this is what I have figured out. The shock is not supposed to pivot on the mounting bolt. It is supposed to pivot on the sleeve. I took my rear shock off and had to put it into a vice to break the sleeve loose.



    Once in the vice, it took some twisting to break the sleeve loose.You might want to use some wood or metal in the vise to keep from damaging the sleeve. I twisted the shock up and down on the sleeve for a good couple minutes and it oozed some rust colored crap out. Once it loosens up you should be able to slide the sleeve out. You will find that the eyelet of the shock is coated with this rubbery orange crap. As much as I tried to oil it, the sleeve kept getting stuck and wouldn't move.



    From here I decided the clearances were too close, so I rolled up some very fine sandpaper and spun it in the shock eyelet until most of the orange crap was gone. After that I cleaned all the parts and lubed the eyelet and sleeve with grease. Now the two parts are able to move freely.

    From there I put the rear shock back on the bike, tightened the shock bolts and no more play!

    BTW, the front shock bolt is shorter than the rear, and don't forget to use some Locktite Blue on the bolts so they don't loosen up on you. If the sleeve has done too much damage to the pivot arm, you may need to order that part from Jamis.

    Sorry to hear about your front fork too. That issue I would blame on Marzocchi more than Jamis. The fork should be rebuildable and I would be willing to bet it just needs a seal. It seems these newer air forks have a lot more problems than the older coil springs with an oil dampener. My 2002 Manitou Elite fork still works great.
    09 Jamis XCT2 Marzocchi RC3 ti forks, XT/XTR drivetrain, Mavic Crossrides/ Kenda Nevegal DTC=29lbs

  83. #83
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    This looks like a good excuse to try out the enduro needle bearing kit in the rear suspension pivots. I don't have any play in mine yet but it seems like it's only a matter of time.

  84. #84
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    I’ve read these posts and had to inspect my bike (09 XCT-3) closely.

    A DU bushing is meant to be tight. The close tolerances insure contaminants won’t get in the bushing and allows stresses to be spread out over a greater area. The rotational friction is high, but this is a trade off to ensure a lightweight (vs. bearings), low maintenance and flex free pivot. It is also relatively inexpensive and easy to manufacture.

    The orange stuff in an eyelet bushing is a solid dry lubricant, so removing it will cause accelerated wear of the eyelet bushing and the sleeve. Same thing with adding oil, it can attract contaminants in the bushing.

    Most of the time, the friction of the pivot is reduced with time, as the bushing wears a bit and the tolerances loosen up. Eventually the tolerances loosen up so much that the pivot becomes loose and the bushings need replacement, in my case this is done during the biannual shock overhaul.

    Most bikes use “top hat” style reducers for mounting the shock. These reducers have their defaults, but they provide a large surface area between frame and the reducer, so when you tighten the mounting bolts, the reducers are well clamped and do not spin on the bolt during suspension movement. The rotation happens where it’s supposed to, between the bushing and the reducer.

    Jamis uses a 10 mm bolt. This bolt does not allow the uses of the standard “top hat” reducers. Instead, a thin sleeve is used between the bolt and bushing. The shock is centered on the sleeve by spacers on each side. This set up is supposedly stiffer because of the larger bolt, but the sleeve provides very little surface area up against the frame or rocker link. This could allow the sleeve to rotate around the bolt, which is not desired.

    I’ve just recently bought an XCT-3 and have ridden it a bit before the snow fell. After reading this thread I checked out the linkages and found that it did knock a bit. One of the seatstay/rocker pivots was loose. As for the shock pivots, they were tight but the 10 mm bolts did show some wear on the anodizing when disassembled, so something was moving around a bit.

    I gonna keep an eye on the linkages and pivots, but this is something I’ve had to do with all me FS bikes. As for the shock pivots, I will try using gel thread locker between the sleeve and mounting bolt, which should help eliminate movement between these two parts and keep all rotational movement at the bushing.

    BTW, the RWC needle bearings wont work with the 10mm bolts on this bike, at least not until they come up with a special kit.

  85. #85
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    I haven't had any issues with rear end play on mine yet. However, my fork (marz 44 ata) is becoming very sad. Doesn't extend to full travel anymore and just feels worse and worse overall. I'm looking into the rockshox sektor to replace it as a Christmas gift to myself.


    The 2011 xct's look great by the way.
    Last edited by T174M; 12-13-2010 at 07:59 PM.

  86. #86
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    Shock

    Same problem here...to add insult to injury my shock is completely locked up. Doing a warranty claim with Marzocchi. Hate the purchase I made.

  87. #87
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    Sorry to here bout your problems, I almost bought the 2.0 but, all of the fork reviews scarred me away. Bikeradar slammed the Mar 44 and their test was broken as well.

  88. #88
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    Yeah I'm not too bummed about it. Get a nice discount (pay cost) thru the shop I work at so I can acquire the new rockshox sektor for a very reasonable price. Anxious to try it out.

  89. #89
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    HI, this is for Camoto or T174M or anyone else that currently owns a Jamis XCT 2.0. What size frames did you guys get? Im 5'10 and I got the 17 inch frame. When I got the bike, I immediately noticed that my knees where coming up very high when riding and they where smacking into the handlebars when turning. The bike also feels very woblly when I ride it. I have tried adjusting the seat several times as well as the rear shock and I have started to come to the realization that this frame may be to small for me and 19inchs is the way to go. I also just verified that my current medium cannondale hardtale I have is closer in size to the 19inch XCT than the 17inch one.

    Just wondering what your experience with size was like.

  90. #90
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    I am 6'3" and I purchased the 21" frame. I am very happy with the fit.

  91. #91
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    I am 5'11" and I have a 21" and It is just right for me, I like a larger frame than some, I think most people my size would prefer a 19".

  92. #92
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    I'm a little over 6' and ride the 19" frame.

  93. #93
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    I am 5' 13" and fit quite well on my 21" frame. However after my ride yesterday, I was cleaning it up and noticed a weird movement on the swing arm while lubricating my chain. I noticed that the right side seat stay pivot bolt was loose, enough that I could spin it with thumb pressure. It turns out the bolt was broken. Snapped at the end of the threads, leaving the threaded part stuck in the pivot arm. I was able to e-z out it but need a replacement. Not happy about it, but how has anyone in need of warranty issues, initiated this? Just bought the bike from JensonUSA on 17 Dec have about 80 miles on it and it's the 09 Dakar 2.0. It is what it is! I just want to fix and ride. I feel even with this problem the $950 I paid was well worth the upgrade from a 2000 Trek 6000 I've been beating for the last 8 years.
    Happy New Year!

  94. #94
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    Noticed the play in my rear end today while the bike was up in the rack. Got the new fork on (rockshox sektor coil), and it feels awesome. Between the new fork, some new bars (raceface atlas fr cut to 30.5", same as my demo), and new tires, the bike really does feel better than ever. The wider bars really lended themselves to this bikes slacked geo as it made the downs even more stable for me.

    So what was the concensus on a remedy for the vertical rear end play? New bushing kit from Jamis, or substituting theirs for something else?

    Thanks,

    Tim
    Last edited by T174M; 01-04-2011 at 09:30 PM.

  95. #95
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    I noticed the same freeplay as mentioned above on my 1.0. I sent the shock RS BAR, to JensonUSA. 3 weeks later they sent my shock back with a new mounting bolt. Installed it. Same problem. the play is maybe 1mm-2mm located at the rear shock mount. Its not in the swingarm pivots. I want my bike to be right but going 3 weeks at a time without it sucks. The shock bushing is either out of round or too big or something. Very unhappy. Ive only got maybe 50 miles on my XCT.

  96. #96
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    Alright,

    Here's a little update about the vertical rear travel slop issue. Contacted Jamis and they claim to have the solution. Look here:

    http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/tech/i..._techsheet.pdf

    The Jamis rep said that the spacers marked #12 were the issue. He said one more might need to be added to either side to fix the slop. When I took mine apart, I didn't have either of the two washers on my bike. He sent me four so I'll see what happens.

    -Tim

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by T174M
    Alright,

    Here's a little update about the vertical rear travel slop issue. Contacted Jamis and they claim to have the solution. Look here:

    http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/tech/i..._techsheet.pdf

    The Jamis rep said that the spacers marked #12 were the issue. He said one more might need to be added to either side to fix the slop. When I took mine apart, I didn't have either of the two washers on my bike. He sent me four so I'll see what happens.

    -Tim

    The above is spot on. Jenson sent me a small washer that goes in as directed above. This DID cure the play in the rear suspension. Tip for installing the washer. Remove your back tire and have someone pust the two sides of the rear triangle together near the dropouts. This will spread the front of it enough to get the washers in and around the seat stay link. A little dab of grease will help hold the washer in place till you can get the bolts in.

  98. #98
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    I just got my bike and havent had this issue yet. Is this something I should check for? Is this a build issue with Jenson?

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by danielco223
    I just got my bike and havent had this issue yet. Is this something I should check for? Is this a build issue with Jenson?

    It seems to be a common issue with these bikes, though not all have had it. Just keep an eye on it as you start putting some miles on it. And if you do get some play, you will know what you're looking for/where you're looking at.

  100. #100
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    And whats the deal with the fork? Are these faulty? Has Jamis been quick to replace them?

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