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  1. #1
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    2006 Jamis Dakar upgrades?

    I just bought this bike and yes I do realize it's not Ti or even high end aluminum but I want to do some upgrading. Already the shop I bought it from installed my CK headset and I tossed the original seat and post for my Thomson and SDG setup. So where do I put the next $1500? Please don't hassle me with "You should have put the $1500 with what you spent on this bike ..." sort of drivel. I like this bike but what to upgrade but not sure where to start next. Wheelset - I was thinking CK's on DT 5.1's? 9 speed uprgade for sure. BB and crankset? Fork and rear shock? I can take all the upgrades and put on a new frame next year or something.

    I'm 6', 1" and 230 pounds and ride mostly rocky, rooty XC. I may do a few curb drops and maybe a few drops off a few steps but no air time for me thanks. I'm not the smoothest or nearly as abusive as some.

    Below are the stock specs on the bike. Let me know how you might proceed if you were in my shoes.


    FORK Manitou Splice Comp, 100mm travel.
    HEADSET Aheadset, STS-2K, 1 1/8”.
    WHEELSET WTB Speed Disc rims, eyeleted, 32H, with Formula front and rear disc hubs, 14g black stainless steel spokes.
    TIRES Hutchinson Scorpion, 26” x 2.0”, wire bead.
    DERAILLEURS Shimano Deore rear, Alivio 31.8mm top pull front.
    SHIFTERS Shimano New Alivio, Rapidfire SL, 24-speed.
    CHAIN KMC IG-31.
    FREEWHEEL SRAM Powerglide 830, 8-speed, 11-32.
    CRANKSET TruVativ IsoFlow, 42/32/22,
    175mm (17-23”).
    BOTTOM BRACKET TruVativ Power Spline, 68 x 113mm.
    PEDALS Wellgo, WPD-823, clipless.
    BRAKESET Tektro Aquila cable-actuated disc brakes front and rear, wavy rotors, Tektro forged alloy levers.
    HANDLEBAR ATB Riser, alloy, 6 x 20mm rise x 620mm width.
    STEM Jamis alloy threadless,
    120mm x 10 (19-23”).
    GRIPS Kraton dual compound..
    SEATPOST Alloy micro-adjust, 350mm x 27.2mm with alloy clamp and QR seatpin
    SADDLE WTB Speed V Sport with SL top and steel rails.
    SIZE 21”
    COLORS Ano Red/Ano Black
    WEIGHT 32.75 lbs

  2. #2
    I'm SUCH a square....
    Reputation: bigpedaler's Avatar
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    first -- RUN LIKE HELL FROM THOSE WELLGO 823'S!!!
    get some time atac, REAL spd's, or candy's (in that order, i recommend)
    convert rims to stan's
    think about switching to x.9 9sp drivetrain -- shifters, rear de, cassette, chain.
    maybe a wider bar (640-660mm)
    replace the splice w/ a black or a minute
    xt crank...?
    A bike is the only drug with no bad side effects....

  3. #3
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    Yep already swapped to Atac Aliums at the shop for free - since these are what I've used in the past and my current shoes have the atac cleats already on them. Got a Easton EA 70 on order with some new ODI grips. Yeah I like the reviews on the SRAM stuff. I've been reading all the posts and reviews on 100mm fork upgrades but haven't decided on anything yet. I'd rather put the most money in the wheels and drivetrain since I hope to have more travel in the upgrade next year and a $700 high end 100mm fork would not follow in that build. So maybe $300 or so on the fork. $700 in wheels, the rest in drivetrain??? The BB and crank seem okay but would I need different chainrings for 9 speed? I can even get a decent 2006 Float R or somthing for under $300 or so I think I saw somewhere but the vanilla should be okay for now with a new spring - not a must swap part for now I guess. Maybe some BB7's? Got a spreadsheet to get started I guess.

  4. #4
    I'm SUCH a square....
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    you can roll a 100mm fork for $200 or so, with some shopping (pricepoint, greenfish); for that much wheel investment, you could look at most of the mavic line, or go handbuilt. the chainrings will be OK, 8sp-specific rings went out about y2k. don't get too hung on the bb7 -- bb5 wil do just fine. the diff is pad adjustment, and the 'tool-free knobs' on the bb7 ain't all that. save some cash and use an allen wrench to adjust the inner pads -- more reliable, anyway.
    A bike is the only drug with no bad side effects....

  5. #5
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    Great advice. That's what I'm talking about. I was thinking maybe a lockout (yeah yeah I know the argument against) on the front and eventually for the rear (new shock then obviously) for those road cardio days or to ride to the trail head miles away. I'll start to do some shopping this weekend. Thanks again.

  6. #6
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    I know that there are so many wonderful reviews on x.9 stuff, but I still prefer XT. I had X.9 and it didn't last 6 months before the main pivot bolt on the rear derailleur was wobbly and skipping gears. (no I didn't wipe out on it)

    The best upgrade you can do IMO is a nice set of wheels and a good crankset. Get some Hope Pro II hubs laced to some DT rims.

    XT rear derialleur, XT shifters, Raceface Deus crankset and stem(light)

    Forks...go for a Reba. (unsung hero of the 100mm forks)

  7. #7
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    I've always liked the CK hubs (overpriced or not) but I've been reading a lot of great reviews of the I9 and Hope hubs as well - decisions decisions. XT has been rock solid for years that's true. Raceface Deus huh? On the list it goes. No XT Crankset with BB? So may threads about mid range cost 100mm forks it makes my head spin.

  8. #8
    KRISDALA BAKA!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    Race Face Dues is a fantastic crankset. I absolutely think they are the best cranks out there.
    If there is one concern about them, it's to stay on top of the chainring bolts. Check them very frequently, cause they will loosen, strip and fall out. Resulting in a mangled middle ring. (I did this, myself) The bolts and inserts are aluminum, thus the need to check more often than normal.
    I chucked the aluminum ones and went with the regular ones, and no issues since.

    For me, that was a small issue. They are light, stiff, and very responsive. Great crankset!!!!

  9. #9
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    Can a small bit of blue loctite help on the chainring bolts? Does it matter if they're aluminum or cromo?

  10. #10
    KRISDALA BAKA!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    To clarify, your question was

    Can a small bit of blue loctite help on the chainring bolts? Does it matter if they're aluminum or cromo?



    I'm not sure if that would be recommended, maybe someone else know that one. In my case, however, it would not have mattered much. At least one of the aluminum bolts had cracked where the shank meets the head. And it was torqued correctly. The failure of the bolts happened when I was transitioning out of a switchback and up a very steep, short rocky climb as I started to apply a bunch of downforce on the drive side crankarm. Snap!!!!
    I might add that this was after several months of extensive hammering.

    I went with the cromo's cause I'm not that much of a weight weenie, and plus how much weight difference is there....really c'mon. Since then, no problemo.
    Last edited by emmaus28; 03-14-2007 at 08:13 PM.

  11. #11
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    Yep, better to errrrrrrrrrrrrr on the side of strength.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by emmaus28
    Race Face Dues is a fantastic crankset. I absolutely think they are the best cranks out there.
    If there is one concern about them, it's to stay on top of the chainring bolts. Check them very frequently, cause they will loosen, strip and fall out. Resulting in a mangled middle ring. (I did this, myself) The bolts and inserts are aluminum, thus the need to check more often than normal.
    I chucked the aluminum ones and went with the regular ones, and no issues since.

    For me, that was a small issue. They are light, stiff, and very responsive. Great crankset!!!!
    Nevermind...take the Deus cranx off the list. I run Hone's and I've never had to check anything. I ran LX and I never had to check anything. They're bombproof. The only reason I didn't suggest XT is b/c I assumed everyone else would.

    I think XT cranksets are a little over priced when you compare them to LX. There's like a 70gram weight difference which is zilch.

    I'm dissapointed in hearing that about RF Deus though. Too bad.

  13. #13
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    Hmmm...at 230lbs, you may want to stick to coil sprung dampers.

    For a fork, I'd try to find a Fox Vanilla R 130 used and send it off to PUSH Industries and have them build it to 100mm travel. The only reason I suggest this is because it's soooo light for a coil fork, and it's incredibly plush. The Vanilla R 130 can be changed to 100mm easily. I don't think the new Van 140 can be dropped.

    You could look into a Manitou swinger 4 way or a Fox Vanilla R rear shock too. You won't save weight, but oooooooh... the squish.

    I think at 230lbs, air springs may blow through too easily.



    I also think the EA70 was a good choice. It has great curves...very comfy.

    I think XT cassettes are the bomb. Great choice to save weight, add stiffness in the cassette, and bling it up a bit.

    Avid Juicy's are great brakes, but I just installed a set of BB5's and I was VERY impressed with their power for a mechanical.

    I love WTB Rocket V saddles. I have the Team Ti which is pretty light.

  14. #14
    "Ride Lots" Eddy Merckx
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    Wheels!!! If you have that kind of cash to spend get some UST wheels and better tires.
    "Big Gulps huh?...Allllriggghhht....Welp, See ya later!"

  15. #15
    KRISDALA BAKA!!!!!!!!!!!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    Nevermind...take the Deus cranx off the list. I run Hone's and I've never had to check anything. I ran LX and I never had to check anything. They're bombproof. The only reason I didn't suggest XT is b/c I assumed everyone else would.

    I think XT cranksets are a little over priced when you compare them to LX. There's like a 70gram weight difference which is zilch.

    I'm dissapointed in hearing that about RF Deus though. Too bad.
    I wouldn't take the RF off the list for the bolts. Like I said, just swap them out, (and it is a cheap retrofit.) and you have an awesome crankset. And if you stay with the aluminum bolts/inserts you just need to check them more often. Which is something your'e supposed to do anyway.

    I fixed my problem and will still buy another Dues when the time comes....that should speak for itself. You will not be dissappointed.

  16. #16
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    Bike is a complete new bike. I wanted to start with a complete bike I can ride whilst upgrading. I had my eye on a high end bike or two but that just didn't pan out. I have been riding mountain bikes since 1994 or so with my first purchase being a GF Paragon, Joshua XO(?), GT Zaskar LE, Specialized Enduro something or other, GT i-drive 2.0(?), Specialized FSR XC Pro(?), Jamis XLT 3.0, Specialized Allez Comp (had to try the roadie stuff), and even a recumbent or two. But a few years ago I got out of cycling all together, sold it all, and got myself a Suzuki , then another, then a Honda, then another,... yes you see where my ADD is headed - Yamaha FZ1 and a Honda 919 now. Now I am trying to sell my last recumbent, the 919. I just decided to buy a lower end bike from the LBS and add a few of the bits I still have left over(CK headset and Thomson seatpost and SDG saddle) to it and begin the upgrades as I like them.

    I haven't ridden in a while and have gained a few pounds (lack of pedaling will do that). The CK's are what I had in years past and I'm sure I will still be comfortable with them again. Now I have to decide if I need the Heavy Duty disc hubs or not( or is it just the drive shell that is HD?). I say this because on one of my old sets I can remember the drive shell (?) having imprints or small gouges from the cassette on it when I removed the cassette. What do you think?
    Sorry for the ramble or lack of coherence, a few brews will do that

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