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  1. #1
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    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing

    Hi, thought I'll share my experience here about the funky rear wheel spacing on my 2006 Yakuza Aniki.

    Bike came stock with a rear 135x10 quick-release hub. Always had a PITA installing and removing the wheel because I had to compress the drop-outs a lot.

    After changing out for a solid axle, I measure the frame and find out the rear spacing between drop-outs was in fact 142mm. So I re-space my hub and now I have a nice 142x10 solid axle rear end which is much stiffer and lot easier to work with. I guess this was made to allow some kind of compatibility for 142x12 rear spacing along other IH frame that used the same rear swing arm or something along this ?

    Or could I weld on some adapters and turn my frame into a 142x10, but using the QR system of a 142x12mm hub, not making the frame 142x12, but using 10mm axle instead. That would be awesome ! But I guess you would have a hard time welding something solid on aluminum drop-outs and figure out a way to make it work...

    Well. A few pics. Hope this helps other people in the same situation


    Edit : Pics to come soon
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  2. #2
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    Hey thanks for sharing,

    i just bought a used 08 yakuza aniki mine is exactly at 135mm.

    i think the look of 06 is different from 08. but if its 135mm drop out, if should be 135mm, i had another bike that was supposed to be 135 but its 139. because it was bent
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  3. #3
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    Here's some pics of mine.

    The 2008 might be different from the 2005 to 2007 models.

    Mine came out right at 142mm inside the drop-outs. I didn't heard about any other Yakuza Aniki bikes with different spacing yet so mine might also just be a knock-off or is same as everyone else. Any feedback would help here.

    I also converted to a single ring crank, so I took advantage of the wide spacing to get my rear chainline pin point on 50mm. Well, I basically just added 7mm worth of washers on the left side. Now I'll have to true the wheel back into dish to get this done well. Another issue I had was the caliper position. Now that the rotor is far more inboard, I had to space the adaptor a few mm's out and I don't have much threads to hold it in place. I'm gonna get longer screws asap before I get into trouble... I could also simply space out the rotor, but I didn't feel like it was the best solution right now.. I already have trouble keeping everything straight with that shitty caliper so I'll cure the problem to the right place.

    I managed to find two 2.5mm washers and a 2mm lock washer that I pried open to make it flat. Fit nice and tight, like a glove.

    Double washers and M10x1 nut to keep it all in place.

    Here's some pics I took with the flash on a dusty bike
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0100_web.jpg  

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0111_web.jpg  

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0104_web.jpg  

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0113_web.jpg  

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0114_web.jpg  

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0106_web.jpg  

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0054_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  4. #4
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    And did they even made a Yakuza Aniki for 2008 ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  5. #5
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    on my frame it says 2008 and other bunch of stuffs painted in some text from factory. i searched for a long time before i bought it. nothing 2008 came up. iron horse website doesnt have achieve like specialized so i guess there is really no way to comfirm

    i dont worry too much about chain line. how is your rotor and caliper clearance?
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  6. #6
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    My caliper is alright I guess. I just have to space out the adaptor and it's ok.

    Yours might be a 2007 model build up in 2008... Like mine is a 2006, but was build up in 2007 for a special order. Don't really matter though.

    Mine just really came out as a 142 rear spacing. Not bent or twisted. Funny
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  7. #7
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    yeah, as long as everything works properly , nothing matters.

    BTW how does your bike weight. my bare frame weights 8.4 lbs with stock fox vanilla r shock. nothing else.

    i guess when i strip the paint the frame would lose about half lb. its still very heavy compare to my previouse DJs.
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  8. #8
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    I never weight the frame alone, but fully build as of last fall it was 40.25 pounds. I might have dropped under 40 with a few mods but I'll try to weight it down today and see. I'm using the stock X-Fusion Glyde RL coil over shock.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #9
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    man, my finish build would probably weight more than you, i will put some heavy freeride rims on mine. still be running low end 1 x 8 sp cassette and chain.
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    Ahah, yeah, mine has the stock wheels with no name front 20mm disc hub and rear (now a Deore 142x10mm solid) disc hub. Both running the stock WTB Double Duty FR rims. And I had a 22-32-bash with 8 speed cassette stock. Now I went to 32-bash with a 8 speed cassette. Kept the fd as a chain guide meanwhile but removed the fd spring, fd cable/housing and shifter.

    Climbing is gonna suck no matter what anyways
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  11. #11
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    yeah, i think 8 gears is enough for me tho. haha. like you said climbing always suck no matter how many speed you have . later man.
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    I'd like to upgrade to 9 spd to be able to run X9 shifters.... Just saw a set of X9 for $60 new on Chainlove... Awww. Need more money. Cause I'll need a new chain and cassette too. I'll wait till my new X4 crap out and then make the move.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  13. #13
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    Btw, if you have a BB7 caliper with pads for sale, let me know... Already have the adaptors and bolts, just need the caliper. Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    i do have a lot of them, but they are all in pairs. i also left one for my current build. im debating if i should try out some decent hydraulics. if i do decide to go with hydros , i will MSG you . it wont cost you an arm or leg.
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  15. #15
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    Thanks, that's appreciate
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i do have a lot of them, but they are all in pairs. i also left one for my current build. im debating if i should try out some decent hydraulics. if i do decide to go with hydros , i will MSG you . it wont cost you an arm or leg.
    Check your PM.

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  17. #17
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    hey you know whats the headtube angle on the stock aniki. or a place i can get the owner manual?
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    Not in the slightest. In fact I've been interested into both since I bought the bike, but never heard about them yet.

    I don't find the HA to be very slack with a 150mm fork... But I know it can easily take a dual-crown like a Drop-Off Triple. I was even thinking about getting an angle-set to make the steep technical sections more friendly.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    cool. thats good to hear. i will be running a sherman 130-170mm fork. so i got a lil bit adjustability there.

    btw the way i just weighted my small aniki frame. weights 7lb 1.7 oz without the pivot bolts. 8lb 14.7 oz with stock vanilla R shock and all the bolts
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  20. #20
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    Gosh, that's something. Mine is a 17", medium I guess, but never weighted the frame alone. I'll install a new rear tire (lighter) and chainring bolts and spacers and let you know how much it weights after.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    I have the '06 Aniki (straight top tube, not curved), and it is a 135mm rear spacing. Yes, they did make the Aniki in '08. I believe that was the last year of production if I am correct.

    The Aniki is an awesome FR bike, but I retired mine for a SC Bullit. Well, retired it for a short bit anyways...LOL. Maybe someone else will build it up if i do not again...LOL

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Gosh, that's something. Mine is a 17", medium I guess, but never weighted the frame alone. I'll install a new rear tire (lighter) and chainring bolts and spacers and let you know how much it weights after.
    Yeah, 17" is a medium frame. That is the frame size for my Yakuza Aniki, Kumicho, and Gashira I have.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    hey you know whats the headtube angle on the stock aniki. or a place i can get the owner manual?
    It has a 68 degree headtube angle, whereas the Kumicho has a 63 to 64 degree angle

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsai-CP View Post
    It has a 68 degree headtube angle, whereas the Kumicho has a 63 to 64 degree angle
    68 ? Doesn't feel like it much. Is this for a 150mm fork ? How it gets with a 203 ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    68 ? Doesn't feel like it much. Is this for a 150mm fork ? How it gets with a 203 ?
    I had a 160 travel fork on mine and it was raking at 68, 69 with a 150 degrees. Never had a 203 on it though, just on my Kumicho. I run a 180 on my SC Bullit which has the same geo as my '06 Aniki which also has 7" rear travel

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    What about an angleset to get it even slacker ? With the OnePointFive HT, it should be fairly easy to gain a few degrees. I think they had a thread on custom angleset in the AM forum.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  27. #27
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    question. is 69 degree consider more slacker than 68?

    i understand that the more degree you have , the more fork and wheel is further from the vertical line of the top of head tube. is that right?



    also do you guys know where do i get those 2 pivot bearings ? i will take them off and find a bearing shop. just thought might be a good idea to get oem

    anyways, here is a pic of my frame after sand blasting. looks raw haha
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-p4060010.jpg  

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  28. #28
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    90 is vertical while 0 is dead flat. Closer to 0 is the slacker. It's the angle that the fork is with the ground.

    Any matching bearings will do. Not much OEM important here.

    And are you gonna polish up the frame ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Hahaha....that looks like my Kumicho sort of, but mine has a better polish, though i have been slacking on the cleaning and polishing for a couple years...LOL



    This is what replaced the Aniki....



    BTW, no, anything less than 69 degrees is more raked or slacker, and anything higher than 69 is less slacker. My big steed above is a 63/64 degree raked headtube which is more raked out (slacker than the Aniki or Bullit. The Bullit is 68 stock, as I measured it with a tool that takes angle measurements.

    I will say this, the Yakuza Aniki has a more vertical headtube angle than the Yakuza Kumicho and you feel it too once you get on both steeds. I like the more raked steeds, though they are harder to climb with.

    As per the main pivot bearings, it is a hit and run with those, but they are out there, just have to keep looking. I do know a guy that was going to manufacture them for me, but he does not do metal manufacturing on a FT basis anymore. You may want to check out that online Iron Horse Club, there are a lot of IH owners on there. I do not remember the url at the top of my mind is, but just do some research and you should find it. They are big on the IH bikes over in Europe still.

  30. #30
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    That bullit Is damn close geo looking as my Aniki curved top tube not the same geo off course, but design is pretty much the same.

    And your polished Kumicho is very nice
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Thanks David! I love my steed....

    Yeah, just the top tube curvature. It does have a very close resemblance to the '07 and newer Aniki's that have the curved top tube. The only difference is the point of the swing arm pivot and is a slight bit lighter at the main swing arm shock pivot due to the metal cut away from it. Handle the same though it is a 1-1/8th headtube whereas the Aniki is a 1.5"

  32. #32
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    Looks a bit lighter too. How much does it weight ?

    I'm going out in about an hour, I'll try the new rear tire and rip some moar gnar
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  33. #33
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    thanks a lot for your guys to answer my question about the HA.

    i will either get it powder coated gloss white or just spray paint it white/flat white. i like white eventho it gets dirty easy haha
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  34. #34
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    Here's mine with the new rear tire, chainring bolts and pedals. I still have to weight it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0258_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    thanks a lot for your guys to answer my question about the HA.

    i will either get it powder coated gloss white or just spray paint it white/flat white. i like white eventho it gets dirty easy haha
    Powder coat!!!!!! If not, then just do a gloss and polish it real good or put a clear coat on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Here's mine with the new rear tire, chainring bolts and pedals. I still have to weight it.
    Damn, I love the look of the Aniki, it is off the hook. Of course I like the straight down tube better than the curved. Had to get use to that on my SC Bullit and my new Jamis Komodo. I am liking it now though...LOL.

    As per weight, which one are you asking about? The Aniki, Bullit, or the Kumicho? The Bullit dressed out the same as the Aniki sheds about two pounds tops, but the Aniki dressed out weighed in at 36#'s. The Kumicho is a big DH/FR sled weighing in at 42#'s, but I think I shed some more weight and it may top in at around 40#'s now.

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    Was talking about the Bullit weight. Difference must be into the frame.

    I hope to have bring mine down under the 40 pounds mark.

    The wheels are pretty heavy. I shaved about 210g with the new rear tire, now at 2.84 kg for the whole rear wheel, including tire, tube, valve cap, rotor, cassette, axle nuts and washers.

    Slowly but surely.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Yes, it is in the frame. The frame itself feels at least two pounds lighter than the Aniki, but I also lightened the wheels, tires, tubes, and a few other key components on the Aniki, thus the lighter than 40 pounds. That weighs as much as my big sled...LOL


    You will shed some more weight if you change out those heavy Drop Offs. Marzocchi forks weigh a ton, though good forks, just heavy. My DJ 1's are soooo heavy, though great DJ or slalom forks.

    I may have missed it, but what tires and wheels are you running?

    I was running WTB Dual Duties on the Aniki, but mounted them on the Bullit. They are just plain tough wheels, but i have a set of Azonic Outlaws I may be throwing on them soon though. They are on my new Komodo now.

    You may want to try running on the Maxxis Ardents 60c, they are solid grip like the Nevegals and weigh much less and are very fast rolling tires.

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    I have the stock wheels, WTB dual duty rims with 20mm front axle and 10mm rear. But I had the rear hub changed for a Deore FH-M555 since the stock formula freehub got busted. Then I did a rear axle conversion to 142x10 bolt on.

    Yeah, the Drop-Off isn't light, but as long as it works, I don't have any reason to change it. And I obviously don't have money to spare on new parts, unless it needs to be replaced or repaired. Coz my dad ain't paying my bikes

    I'll try to weight the bike tomorrow when I'll clean it. Today's ride burned me down to the point I had trouble focusing when editing my pictures from the ride

    I'm always aiming for the lightest possible, but I keep the strength and durability on top. I'm mixing aluminum and steel throughout custom made parts to get the most out of them, but there is limits to what I can do. Like using 12.9 alloy steel grade bolts and dense aluminum spacers for my brake adaptor, SS chainring bolts and alloy spacers, drilled steel hub spacer, etc.

    Yup, I took my measurements for my rear axle spacer today and I'll make the technical drawings to send to my machinist and make the parts. Lot of work going in this bike. But there is even more love going in.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsai-CP View Post
    Powder coat!!!!!! If not, then just do a gloss and polish it real good or put a clear coat on it.
    i think im gonna just go with what you said here. take my time do a good spray paint job for once haha.


    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    I have the stock wheels, WTB dual duty rims with 20mm front axle and 10mm rear. But I had the rear hub changed for a Deore FH-M555 since the stock formula freehub got busted. Then I did a rear axle conversion to 142x10 bolt on.

    Yeah, the Drop-Off isn't light, but as long as it works, I don't have any reason to change it. And I obviously don't have money to spare on new parts, unless it needs to be replaced or repaired. Coz my dad ain't paying my bikes

    I'll try to weight the bike tomorrow when I'll clean it. Today's ride burned me down to the point I had trouble focusing when editing my pictures from the ride

    I'm always aiming for the lightest possible, but I keep the strength and durability on top. I'm mixing aluminum and steel throughout custom made parts to get the most out of them, but there is limits to what I can do. Like using 12.9 alloy steel grade bolts and dense aluminum spacers for my brake adaptor, SS chainring bolts and alloy spacers, drilled steel hub spacer, etc.

    Yup, I took my measurements for my rear axle spacer today and I'll make the technical drawings to send to my machinist and make the parts. Lot of work going in this bike. But there is even more love going in.

    sound like you putting in a lot of extra work for your drop out spacing issue. have you ever try calling IH for the problem you having right now ?


    and also about the weight. i will be happy if my finish build is under 40lbs with 1 rear brake.

    i will set it as a commuter/urban bike first because im still resting from the car accident i had. cant really do any aggresive riding.

    already got all the parts beside a front 20mm hub. stock frame and fox vanilla R shock. almost 9lbs , manitou sherman breakout 130-170mm oil fork 5.5lbs, cane creek double X headset, 1x8 sp sram attack shifter, shimano SLX shadow rear der. BB7 caliper with 203mm rear brake. running teflon brake shifter inners. mtx33 rims , novatec hubs. maxxis hookworm street tires, race face cranks and BB. taiwan made red seal bearing DH pedals. MRP systerm 3 party crasher guide. some sick ass deity 50mm stems. also my favorite is the azonic Ultracross handlebar .


    bike would be white with red cables, black rims black spokes with red nipples. it will be off the hook. later when my body allow me to ride hard. i will slap on some off road tires, some decent hydraulics like avid code, magura or hope brakes. maybe a lighter shock i will be golden for most trials. no need to upgrade any more for me haha
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    Sorry for going back on topic

    Here's the tech sheet for my hub spacer. The spacer will be steel, and will have a small lip at the bottom to sit on the washer and make a precise contact with the dust cover rather than just pushing down on it and deforming the cover, than breaking the sealing feature.

    The dust cover is in black on the bottom left drawing. The nut should be on the first washer and the dust cover normally was sticking out about 0.5mm over the washer.

    Looks like a lot of work, but with the right tools and knowledge, it's an easy job.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-imageuploadedbytapatalk1334026812.158036.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    damn, thats precision .

    dont get me wrong , why not just get the frame adjusted ? becasue next time you use some different wheelset or hubs you will have to do this all over again
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    damn, thats precision .

    dont get me wrong , why not just get the frame adjusted ? becasue next time you use some different wheelset or hubs you will have to do this all over again
    Well coz I like it better that way too. I get my exact chainline, no bending forced flex in the frame and it's a lot easier that having to get the frame adjusted precisely, without weakening the metal. And if I ever need to change to a new hub, chances are it's probably be an XT or another Shimano and I'll stick with it. I never busted a Shimano hub, so I don't seek any problem soon.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    i see.

    i still dont understand why its 142mm haha, anyways .good luck
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    I don't know either. But I prefer to be at 142 rather than 139 or other wacked spacings.

    I'll do with it. Gotta see life on the bright side
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Whoa Mama ! I weighted the bike this morning...

    From a heavy 40.25 pounds, I got down all the way to 38.97 pounds ! I'm now riding a sub-40 bike !!!
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by einfopedia View Post
    i want to know that there is a problem in your bike...what problem with your bike but i think its look like a fit.the snapshot are very good.thanks
    Wut ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Probably BOT Spam David unless it was a posting for another forum, but most likely BOT....hahahaha

    Congrats on the sub 40 steed bro!!

    I loved my Aniki even more when I got it down to 36#'s....LOL. Made it much easier to climb...hahahaha

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsai-CP View Post
    Congrats on the sub 40 steed bro!!

    I loved my Aniki even more when I got it down to 36#'s....LOL. Made it much easier to climb...hahahaha
    Thanks, the single ring crank conversion was really the master key to make the bike more climbing friendly.

    Then lighter tire and stiffer rear end made it better. But now I just bought a 2000 GT XCR bike in very nice condition and my bike money is back to zero. So I either need to find a better job asap or stick with my current setups till I get back home in september and find a full time job to finance my bike trips.

    The Yakuza is pretty much to the top of what I could do with my incomes, so it should be very enjoyable for another year or so But that GT... man... Dream bike coming true is getting me stoke to death. Wish I had more money right now so I could upgrade right away to disc brakes. One step at the time. I'm young and the best still has to come.

    Enjoy

    Oh, and before I get too much side track, here's a thread on my bike (well, pics of my bike) : My mothafuker bike

    And a pic to prove the truth :
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0289_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    question. is 69 degree consider more slacker than 68?

    i understand that the more degree you have , the more fork and wheel is further from the vertical line of the top of head tube. is that right?



    also do you guys know where do i get those 2 pivot bearings ? i will take them off and find a bearing shop. just thought might be a good idea to get oem

    anyways, here is a pic of my frame after sand blasting. looks raw haha
    I almost forgot to mention to you 'akacoke', you can get replacement parts and the pivot bearings from Airborne Bicycles. They have taken over the build rights of the older IH fleet.

    The Iron Horse Yakuza Kumicho is now the Airborne Taka, and the Iron Horse Yakuza Aniki & Warrior fleet is the Airborne Marauder.

    Check it out bro...

    Airborne Bicycles. Downhill & Freeride

    This may help ya out and good luck. This is where I got my main pivot bearing replacement for my Kumicho and will also hopefully get one for my Aniki as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bonsai-CP View Post
    I almost forgot to mention to you 'akacoke', you can get replacement parts and the pivot bearings from Airborne Bicycles. They have taken over the build rights of the older IH fleet.

    The Iron Horse Yakuza Kumicho is now the Airborne Taka, and the Iron Horse Yakuza Aniki & Warrior fleet is the Airborne Marauder.

    Check it out bro...

    Airborne Bicycles. Downhill & Freeride

    This may help ya out and good luck. This is where I got my main pivot bearing replacement for my Kumicho and will also hopefully get one for my Aniki as well.
    Hey thanks for mentioning us.

    If you don't mind I'd like to clarify that as a rule, we DON'T sell replacement pivot hardware/bushings/bearings for old IH products. We do supply warranty parts for Airborne bikes under warranty but that necessitates proof of purchase or order#, along with some other things, to verify that it is an Airborne product.

    Airborne used a few old IH designs for some of our products because the factory we used when we started up 2 years ago used to make IH's stuff. We've since moved away from that factory and are working on new designs for our DH and 7" Park/FR bikes that will debut late this summer.

    Once we sell thru the current Taka and Marauder bikes we won't be making those anymore. At the current rate of sell-thru we will be out of both of those models before we have the new ones available to sell, so we aren't planning on doing any discounts to move them out.

    Hope that clarifies a few things!

    Thanks~
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Hey thanks for mentioning us.

    If you don't mind I'd like to clarify that as a rule, we DON'T sell replacement pivot hardware/bushings/bearings for old IH products. We do supply warranty parts for Airborne bikes under warranty but that necessitates proof of purchase or order#, along with some other things, to verify that it is an Airborne product.

    Airborne used a few old IH designs for some of our products because the factory we used when we started up 2 years ago used to make IH's stuff. We've since moved away from that factory and are working on new designs for our DH and 7" Park/FR bikes that will debut late this summer.

    Once we sell thru the current Taka and Marauder bikes we won't be making those anymore. At the current rate of sell-thru we will be out of both of those models before we have the new ones available to sell, so we aren't planning on doing any discounts to move them out.

    Hope that clarifies a few things!

    Thanks~
    Hey, thanks for your input. I was wondering even if you don't usually sell the parts if there was one of your distributor we could call if we ever need a part ?

    I'll be sad if I can't use my frame anymore due to a simple pivot axle failure
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    Hey, thanks for your input. I was wondering even if you don't usually sell the parts if there was one of your distributor we could call if we ever need a part ?

    I'll be sad if I can't use my frame anymore due to a simple pivot axle failure
    We ordered a finite amount of replacement parts from the frame factory for warranty purposes for Airborne Takas. I don't think they would be willing to service individuals looking for replacement parts as most factories aren't set up for that.

    I wish I could be more help, sorry!
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    We ordered a finite amount of replacement parts from the frame factory for warranty purposes for Airborne Takas. I don't think they would be willing to service individuals looking for replacement parts as most factories aren't set up for that.

    I wish I could be more help, sorry!
    But could we get just the basic technical data so if we ever need a part, we could get one from our local machine shop ? And as far as the pivot maintenance goes on the Aniki (now the marauder), they should last pretty long with annual cleaning ?
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    But could we get just the basic technical data so if we ever need a part, we could get one from our local machine shop ? And as far as the pivot maintenance goes on the Aniki (now the marauder), they should last pretty long with annual cleaning ?
    The pivot bolt/shaft on the Marauder should last quite a long time with proper cleaning and attention. The bearings would wear out long before the shaft, and those can be purchased locally with the bearing#, or if under warranty replaced by us.
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Hey thanks for mentioning us.

    If you don't mind I'd like to clarify that as a rule, we DON'T sell replacement pivot hardware/bushings/bearings for old IH products. We do supply warranty parts for Airborne bikes under warranty but that necessitates proof of purchase or order#, along with some other things, to verify that it is an Airborne product.

    Airborne used a few old IH designs for some of our products because the factory we used when we started up 2 years ago used to make IH's stuff. We've since moved away from that factory and are working on new designs for our DH and 7" Park/FR bikes that will debut late this summer.

    Once we sell thru the current Taka and Marauder bikes we won't be making those anymore. At the current rate of sell-thru we will be out of both of those models before we have the new ones available to sell, so we aren't planning on doing any discounts to move them out.

    Hope that clarifies a few things!

    Thanks~
    Thanks BigDaddyFlyer for the current update and clarification. I was only mentioning Airborne, because the main pivot bearing you had for those models fit those specific IH bikes at the time you guys started coming out with those two. I replaced one of mine with one of yours and it worked fine.

    Now that Airborne is moving away from that design, I am understanding that they will no longer be available, so my apologies for my past posting about the main pivot bearing replacement.

    Thanks again BigDaddyFlyer....

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    Just received my hub spacer ! I'll post some pics when I get back home
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    i started another thread about the shock hardware. here Rear shock pins have play

    people in that thread was very helpful. and i was informed that we dont have to run the pin style bolts for the shock mount. a cap screw and nut set would def do it.

    as for the pivot bearing, i found some KML seal bearing on ebay. they look very similar to the enduro ones with a blue seal filled with chevron grease. the KML bearings were supposed to work on high speed electric motors where it gets pretty hot. i hope itd hold up for mountain biking. from my understanding, if the pivot bolt is tight enough, only moving part would be the 2 seal bearing. so pretty much the pivot bolt wouldnt wear at all
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    Here's a few pics of the spacer, without the spacer and with the locknut over the spacer.


    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-imageuploadedbytapatalk1336966174.889928.jpg

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-imageuploadedbytapatalk1336966189.293955.jpg

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-imageuploadedbytapatalk1336966206.042968.jpg

    Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-imageuploadedbytapatalk1336966222.978238.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  60. #60
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    looks nice.
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    Here it is :
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0031_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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    is it anodized gold? or painted gold
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    It is painted gold. I'd love anodized, but still haven't made the jump yet for setting up the whole thing.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    It is painted gold. I'd love anodized, but still haven't made the jump yet for setting up the whole thing.
    i always wondered how much the whole anodize set up cost, also the paint
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i always wondered how much the whole anodize set up cost, also the paint
    Check over the DIY light forum. There's a thread about DIY anodizing. Paint I use is with a air brush. Small ones for artistic stuff. I buy the Createx paint in the colors I need and mix also to make the colors I want. Then cook the paint in the oven at 400F for ~20 minutes.

    A small anodizing setup would cost about $100 I think (including dies) and paint cost me about $15 for the gun, $5 for a bottle of paint (lot of paint in the bottle) and you get a air compressor. But anodizing gives better finish. But at least I can paint steel parts whereas anodizing only work for aluminum or Ti, not for steel.

    This is some 10.9 grade steel bolts I painted in blue for my stem. Plus the gold for the shifter clamp.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Yakuza Aniki rear spacing-dscn0025_web.jpg  

    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

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