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  1. #1
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    Rear der. adjustment on a 2003 IH Hollowpoint...

    I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions on how to route the cable and housing after it leaves under the seat post and then into the slot on the rear triangle. I always seem to get slack in the cable when the rear triangle moves up and I get ghost shifting sometimes. It's not a huge problem... but I would love it to work better.


    I was wondering if anybody has pics or suggestions on how to route it. I've tried a few different configurations but nothing I've been overly happy with.

  2. #2
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    I realize this isn't a derailleur setup, but I think it applies to what you're asking. I just snake it down with a gentle 'S' bend. I know the derailleur housing is a bit stiffer than the brake housing I'm using in the photo. On other bikes I've seen spring, elastic, rubberbands and zip ties used to "anchor" the 'S' bend to the seat tube, shock, or to housing on the opposite side to prevent thigh rub under compression.

  3. #3
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    Try to make that S-bend as short as possible. It will compress as the rear triangle moves up. It was so long it used to rub against my calf...

    Also, the OEM cable/housing is absolute crap, and makes for really hard shifting at that S-bend. I replaced it with XTR cables/housing, and it's sleek. It has those nifty anti-mud caps and it's a world of a difference.

    Ghost shifting could also come from a not-so-well aligned derailleur hanger. Mine was completely off when I checked it.

    In summary: I replaced the cables/housing with XTR (not cheap, but not over-expensive), made the S-bend a tad shorter and aligned the hanger. Now shifting is perfect.

    HTH,

    Maurice

  4. #4
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    OH yeah, that Jag wire stuff is gone! One of the first things to go.

    Ok I'll try the S-curve and I'll make it tight. I have a big loop right now and it moves around in the seat tube brace enough to hit my leg sometimes and it really bothers me.

    What exactly do you mean by a not so well aligned der. hanger?
    I guess what I'm asking is how do you align it?

    Oh and yeah I don't know what I was thinking when I titled this question.

  5. #5
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    I got myself this:



    It's a Park DAG-1 alignment tool...

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    WOW! That's probably better than...

    ...my hammer on a slab of concrete derailleur hanger alignment tool!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice
    I got myself this:



    It's a Park DAG-1 alignment tool...


    HOT DAMN!
    What did that set ya back? Just for aligning the rear der.... wow!
    Maybe I'll have my LBS do it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeeDub Nate
    ...my hammer on a slab of concrete derailleur hanger alignment tool!


    Bwahhhhhhhhhhh yeah I have a few hammers. That focker costs $50.
    Mine didn't seem that far off either.

  9. #9
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    yes that's around 50 dead presidents.... but it does it's job well. My hanger didn't seem off by much but it turned out to be quite out of whack. And a lot of shifting nightmares went away since.

    Also, the BFH just doesn't cut it on those flimsy hangers, seems they'd snap just staring at them.

    If you're on the East Coast and ever ride Chimney Rock or Round Valley in NJ, let me know, I can always bring it and it's a breeze to straighten the thing.

    Or the LBS, but I tend to stay away from them. Around here they'd charge the price of the tool to do it, that's why I bought it. I go down a lot, especially lately. And go figure, it's like the buttery side on the toast, the derailleur side ALWAYS goes down

    Maurice

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice
    yes that's around 50 dead presidents.... but it does it's job well. My hanger didn't seem off by much but it turned out to be quite out of whack. And a lot of shifting nightmares went away since.

    Also, the BFH just doesn't cut it on those flimsy hangers, seems they'd snap just staring at them.

    If you're on the East Coast and ever ride Chimney Rock or Round Valley in NJ, let me know, I can always bring it and it's a breeze to straighten the thing.

    Or the LBS, but I tend to stay away from them. Around here they'd charge the price of the tool to do it, that's why I bought it. I go down a lot, especially lately. And go figure, it's like the buttery side on the toast, the derailleur side ALWAYS goes down

    Maurice

    Nice! If I have that cash laying around I'll look into it.
    I'm not really for banging anything on my bike with a hammer.

  11. #11
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    I'm still having trouble with my rear der.

    Anybody go pics of how they routed the cables?

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    Quote Originally Posted by stosh
    I'm still having trouble with my rear der.

    Anybody go pics of how they routed the cables?
    Stosh,

    You running full length, or are you making use of the cable stops?

    If you're running a traditional setup with exposed cable, housing only at the bends, I'd bet those Nokion beads would go a long way towards solving any troubles you're having in that location.

    On the other hand, SIS cable shouldn't be allowing a significant change in cable slack unless it's exceptionally short or exceptionally crappy. You might also check the cut ends of the housing to ensure the strands aren't slicing through the end of the ferrules. I'm not sure how much this might (or might not) contribute the the problem your problem, but it happens and it's worth looking at.

    One last thing: When I was running derailleurs, I swore by those little Avid Rollamajig pulley wheels to eliminate the housing loop. I'm confident I was getting better shifting performance on any bike I added one to (I throw that in because just as many guys hate them as like them).

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpeeDub Nate
    Stosh,

    You running full length, or are you making use of the cable stops?

    If you're running a traditional setup with exposed cable, housing only at the bends, I'd bet those Nokion beads would go a long way towards solving any troubles you're having in that location.

    On the other hand, SIS cable shouldn't be allowing a significant change in cable slack unless it's exceptionally short or exceptionally crappy. You might also check the cut ends of the housing to ensure the strands aren't slicing through the end of the ferrules. I'm not sure how much this might (or might not) contribute the the problem your problem, but it happens and it's worth looking at.

    One last thing: When I was running derailleurs, I swore by those little Avid Rollamajig pulley wheels to eliminate the housing loop. I'm confident I was getting better shifting performance on any bike I added one to (I throw that in because just as many guys hate them as like them).
    I'm using the cable stops.

    Also I went over the whole system on Sat. pre-ride and lubed up the housing and checked it. Everything seemed in perfect working condtion. The bike always shifts well when it's on the stand.
    Yeah I may look into that rollamajig thing just to try it. I was also thinking about going to an 8sp rear. I really like them they are simple and easy to choose. Plus a short cage in the back wouldn't be bad either.

    Man I need a good internally geared hub... any suggestions? J/K

  14. #14
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    What kind of trouble are you getting ? Not shifting right, as in crappily shifting up and not shifting down for instance. Or can't stay in gear no matter what amount of turning the knobs you put into it ?

    Also, try to shift with one hand holding the der. cable's end (removed from the der.) and the other the shifter (you might need a second set of hands, or be built like an orang-utan to do that) to see if there's a kink in the line, and possibly pinpoint it. You can actually do that by simply pushing on the derailleur and taking off one of the housings from one of the stops, assuming you're not running full length.

    I'll try to take pics but it might take me a while to post them...

    Maurice

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurice
    What kind of trouble are you getting ? Not shifting right, as in crappily shifting up and not shifting down for instance. Or can't stay in gear no matter what amount of turning the knobs you put into it ?

    Also, try to shift with one hand holding the der. cable's end (removed from the der.) and the other the shifter (you might need a second set of hands, or be built like an orang-utan to do that) to see if there's a kink in the line, and possibly pinpoint it. You can actually do that by simply pushing on the derailleur and taking off one of the housings from one of the stops, assuming you're not running full length.

    I'll try to take pics but it might take me a while to post them...

    Maurice
    Ok cool. If you could get pics I would appreciate it.

    Ok well I've NEVER been happy with how my bike has shifted and I've brought it to numerous bike shops to tune it up but I've never been happy.
    I replaced the rear der. hanger just incase it was slightly bent.
    I've tried numerous positions of the cable housing.
    It does ghost when I compress the rear shock.
    I replaced the rear cassette to a shimano thinking the oem Sram rear cassette wasn't as good a match as the shimano.

    So at this point I'm lost. I built a hardtail up from scratch this winter and it shifts perfectly... so I'm ok at tuning the rear der...................

  16. #16
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    stosh,

    here are the pics.

    There's not much to it, except that I added the rollamathing on the rear, and now have little friction.

    The last pic shows the hanger alignment. As I said, a brand new hanger may be out of whack...

    Sorry for the dirty bike and rusty chain, Sunday's race was in the rain and I haven't cleaned it up thoroughly. No problem of mud clearance BTW, even going through a swamp

    HTH,

    Maurice
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Yeah! Now that's the kind of paint I like to see!

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