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  1. #1
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    More 6point chain guide problems...grumble

    I put on a blackspire stinger on my 6 point and went out for a ride at Iron Mountain (for those of you familiar with SoCal riding).

    For those of you not familiar with Iron Mountain, it's a rocky technical ride.

    My problem is that the chain guide was also serving as a bash guard! Through rocky technical sections a rock will hit the chain guide bracket and push the chain guide bracket up against rear triangle. I've thought about trimming some metal off the guide bracket to clear the triangle, allowing me to place it high enough so as not to bottom the guide out on rocks, but I that's not a possibility because if I rotate the bracket any higher, the chain will get pinched between the roller and the rear triagle.

    I know the bike comes from the factory with an e.13 DRS, but when I look at pictures of the e.13 on the 6point online, the chain guide on the the e.13 DRS doesn't look to have any more "bottom out on a rock" clearance than my Stinger. So I'd hate spend $120 on an e13 just to have the same problem.

    Is anyone else experiencing this? Is solutions?

    FYI, I'm using a Big Earl crankset.

  2. #2
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    The DS guide (you use your own bash guard) is only $45 as I recall. And yes, it still hangs down exposed so I got an E13 36 tooth bash that will hit first. Having said that, you must pick some pretty poor lines if you're having that much trouble! You didn't do the shorter 8.5" rear shock mod did you? Or have a lot of sag? I use 30% sag, 8.75" rear shock, and also the headset extender that gives a bit more BB height and I've only hit the guide once. The DS guide is steel and stays in place better than the Stinger.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  3. #3
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    You must have put a 30T front-ring on there.

  4. #4
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    No, it's just the stock 32t ring and bashguard that comes on the Big Earl Crankset.

    The low 6point BB is nice for cornering, but it can be annoying in the technical sections.

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima
    You must have put a 30T front-ring on there.

  5. #5
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    6POINT bikes came stock with 36T front rings. Is your idle pulley hanging below the lowest radius of the bash-guard?

  6. #6
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    It's about about equal or a little higher than the lowest radius of the bash-guard. Relative to the bash guard, my guide does not hang lower than the e13 guide+bash-guard (at least according to picture online).

    My thought at this point is to shim my dhx air can so that my middle travel is a little more resistant, and to slide the Stinger pulley in toward the bash guard as far as possible and then trim off any excess guide bracket metal hanging below the pulley (but probably leave 1/8" hanging below the pulley to protect the pulley a little).

    I'm sure there are trails MORE technical/chunky than Iron Mountain, but probably not much more, so if I can get it work on Iron Mountain I can probably get it work anywhere.

    Maybe I should start focusing on taking better lines, too. Or sell a kidney on Ebay and buy a Hammerschmidt.

    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima
    6POINT bikes came stock with 36T front rings. Is your idle pulley hanging below the lowest radius of the bash-guard?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by marshallmthomas
    It's about about equal or a little higher than the lowest radius of the bash-guard. Relative to the bash guard, my guide does not hang lower than the e13 guide+bash-guard (at least according to picture online).

    My thought at this point is to shim my dhx air can so that my middle travel is a little more resistant, and to slide the Stinger pulley in toward the bash guard as far as possible and then trim off any excess guide bracket metal hanging below the pulley (but probably leave 1/8" hanging below the pulley to protect the pulley a little).

    I'm sure there are trails MORE technical/chunky than Iron Mountain, but probably not much more, so if I can get it work on Iron Mountain I can probably get it work anywhere.

    Maybe I should start focusing on taking better lines, too. Or sell a kidney on Ebay and buy a Hammerschmidt.
    Your suspension set-up must be toward the ultra-soft. I have the e.thirteen DRS, 36/26T and I have typical contact. I know what you mean, where the backing plate rotates from an impact.
    If you can, chamfer the index holes on the plate, rotate it more & avoid something sliding past the bashguard.

  8. #8
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    Have you tried the bike without a chain guide? I had a stinger guide on my 6 point and I ended up taking it off for the same exact issue you are having. I "thought" I needed a chain guide but it turns out that I rarely, and I mean rarely drop the chain without one. I shuttle, DH and XC on mine without issues. Just make sure your chain is the correct length (not too long). Mine was a couple of links longer than it needed to be so there was some slop. I use stick on velcro on the chainstay with fuzzy facing where the chain slaps. This virtually eliminates the chain slap noise.

  9. #9
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    I must run a Chain Guide. Dropping a chain before these were made never was good for me, and they also save a sloppy-shift if a Dual-Ring. Too bad Frame Builders are now making ISCG mounts that can be taken-off, because these get trashed if a chain drops onto them without a backing-plate.

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler
    Have you tried the bike without a chain guide? I had a stinger guide on my 6 point and I ended up taking it off for the same exact issue you are having. I "thought" I needed a chain guide but it turns out that I rarely, and I mean rarely drop the chain without one. I shuttle, DH and XC on mine without issues. Just make sure your chain is the correct length (not too long). Mine was a couple of links longer than it needed to be so there was some slop. I use stick on velcro on the chainstay with fuzzy facing where the chain slaps. This virtually eliminates the chain slap noise.

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