I don't climb, I walk
Mkiii's running tubeless
I've got an entirely stock 08 MKiii Comp. DT Swiss X430 wheel set. My question is, is anyone running these tubeless? Is it even possible? For those who are running tubeless on a MKiii does anyone know how much weight they've saved? What type of performance gains have you seen? Thanks, Joe
same bike, 5.1d wheels. Used the stans kit, and wtb tires. Picked heavy tires, so actually gained weight, but they've been bulletproof. The performance is well documented. Do it, you will love it.
I've been running "ghetto" tubeless for two years now on a wide range of wheel & tire combinations and have not had any problems. I used ghetto tubeless on my MKIII for a year before going to a 6point. My MKIII had the AlexRims 24mm rims, I used nonUST tires and nonUST wheels and tubeless worked great.
I also convert friends tires to ghetto tubeless for a small fee and so I've come across many tire/rim combinations. My opinion (and there is some dispute about this) is that the key is to use the 20" bmx tube method and not just the rim strip. There will be many people who say "I use the rim strip and it works just fine, you don't need the bmw tube lining." The truth is every rim has a slightly different geometry and every tire has a slightly different shapped & textured bead, and it all depends on the combination of wheel and tire. To be safe, I always suggest using the 20" bmx method because then you have rubber-on-rubber making the seal on the rim instead of rubber on metal. UST tires will help if doing rubber on metal (ie. sealing riming strip instead of 20" bmx tube) because UST tires have an extra layer of smooth rubber on the bead so that they seal better against metal. But to be safe, use the 20" BMX tube method.
You may also need an air compressor or some way to get a blast of air to seat the bead. Sometimes a floor pump will work, but again, it depends on the wheel/tire combo. You can even use a CO2 charge blast to seat the tire, but use just enough to get the tire seated and then fill the rest with regular air. You don't want to freeze the sealant with the cold CO2. Also, if you use CO2, make sure the valve stem is up when filling so that entry point of the C02 is as far away from the sealant (sitting a pool at the bottom of the tire) as possible.
Hope that helps. Once I sent to tubeless I went 1.5 years of riding before getting my first flat, and that was a puncture flat, so tubes wouldn't have helped anyway.
Also, in my opinion, weight savings is negligible compared to standard tubes. However, if you're currently using the "thorn proof" tubes, or some other extra thick downhill tube, then the weight savings will be noticeable and well worth it.
Originally Posted by JTK37
Same bike, same wheels as the OP here- I was able to use the basic Stan's kit to go tubeless. No real problems seating tires or getting them to stay sealed. So far I've used Maxxis High Rollers and WTB Mutanos, both were easy to get sealed.
I don't know that I noticed any weight difference/bike feeling lighter. What I did notice was a nice traction bonus in the rear in all situations, nothing huge but it was there. Front seems to conform around rocks a bit better.
The main benefit to me is not having to think about flats any more, ever. In 2 seasons I've had one flat, due to a sharp rock in the desert slicing thru my tire. For sure it would have popped a tube.