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  1. #1
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    Iron Horse bikes 2011 revealed

    ..Well, kind of.
    Not exactly what I was hoping from once great brand
    Win your dream bike - Groopy.com is giving away a $5000 bicycle!

  2. #2
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    just got the new iron horse unity lovely machine
    will post pics when i can

  3. #3
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    Unfortunately, at this time, Ironhorse Bikes are not sold in the United States. Hmmm wonder when they will be.

  4. #4
    Huckin' trails
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    This is really some crappy **** now...

  5. #5
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    What is that? A Yeti 575?

  6. #6
    Huckin' trails
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    Nope, A Piece of Evil Multi-National Low End Products.

  7. #7
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    Yuck! Step aside Toys R Us Mongoose, there's a new sheriff in town.

    What a shame...

  8. #8
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    they have only just started to be sold in the uk

  9. #9
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    That's too bad

  10. #10
    Tire Geek O_o
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    No good

    Is that a joke? are these IH bikes for real????

  11. #11
    Huckin' trails
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    Unfortunately yes... They are for real... but not for "real" MTB purposes... but for "real" low end crap...

  12. #12
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    what a friken joke haha
    My Girl friend said, " it's not about how LONG your travel is... its's how well you use it!"

  13. #13
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    IH Unity 2011

    here`s the evidence...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Iron Horse bikes 2011 revealed-ihunity.jpg  

    Iron Horse bikes 2011 revealed-ihun2.jpg  

    Iron Horse bikes 2011 revealed-ih4.jpg  


  14. #14
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    wow, expensive drivetrain you got here... at least they still stick to pro fork...

  15. #15
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    Just looked at their site and let me tell you some real high quality bikes( sarcasm). I remember when IH was a good company now they lie on the high end( more sarcasm) dept. store brand.

  16. #16
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    thats the one i got.. well pleased with it.
    having a bit of trouble understanding hope to work the forks. i lock them out on the road. but what do i do on the other side and the underneath.. the rabbit and the tortise symbols?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbadleo View Post
    thats the one i got.. well pleased with it.
    having a bit of trouble understanding hope to work the forks. i lock them out on the road. but what do i do on the other side and the underneath.. the rabbit and the tortise symbols?
    The knob on the bottom is rebound adjustment, and I'd say the other knob on top is preload.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Remy Darke View Post
    The knob on the bottom is rebound adjustment, and I'd say the other knob on top is preload.
    thats it cana anyone tell me how to use them?

    i like biking on the road and trails( im trying to lose weight for now) so where do i set the rebound and what preload! thanks

    rep added btw

  19. #19
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    We should redirect you to the suspension forum, but I will be nice...

    For road : Lock the fork (once locked, rebound doesn't mind, the fork isn't moving) If not locked, adjust the rebound kinda low, like 3/4 to low, so you don't loose power. The preload should always be the same, no matter the riding type.

    For urban : Get the rebound to the half position, so nice fork response and not to much power loss.

    For MTB : Get the rebound to close high, like 3/4 to high, so you get quick response. You should lock it on climbing to get better efficiency.

    For the preload : the preload is simply to set how much travel is taken away when you simply ride the bike, its called the SAG and depend on your average riding style, its should be 10-15% for XC, 15-20% for AM and 20% for DH and FR... as this bike is an FS, I should suggest that you set to 10-15%, so for 100mm of travel, about half inch of SAG... But its only as reference, you can adjust it like you want, to fell more comfortable... just be sure not to set it to low (to keep a safe up bump distance) or too high (to keep enough travel for nice hits)...

    So...

    Road =>lock
    Urban =>low rebound (slow)
    MTB =>high rebound (quick)
    Preload (top knob, screw in or out) =>half inch
    Rebound => under knob, screw in or out
    lockout =>on/off turn knob on top (other side then the preload usually)

    Enjoy!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigbadleo View Post
    thats it cana anyone tell me how to use them?

    i like biking on the road and trails( im trying to lose weight for now) so where do i set the rebound and what preload! thanks

    rep added btw
    The preload sets the fork sag which should be about 30mm on that fork. The rebound sets how fast the fork extends so you can set it to the terrain and how you like it. Turning toward the rabbit/turtle makes the fork extend faster/slower.

    Edit: David C summed it up pretty well.
    Last edited by Remy Darke; 06-15-2011 at 06:18 PM. Reason: David C can type faster than I can.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Remy Darke View Post
    Edit: David C summed it up pretty well.
    Thanks mate.

    And btw, if you are trying to loose weight, don't lock the fork on climbing .

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by David C View Post
    We should redirect you to the suspension forum, but I will be nice...

    For road : Lock the fork (once locked, rebound doesn't mind, the fork isn't moving) If not locked, adjust the rebound kinda low, like 3/4 to low, so you don't loose power. The preload should always be the same, no matter the riding type.

    For urban : Get the rebound to the half position, so nice fork response and not to much power loss.

    For MTB : Get the rebound to close high, like 3/4 to high, so you get quick response. You should lock it on climbing to get better efficiency.

    For the preload : the preload is simply to set how much travel is taken away when you simply ride the bike, its called the SAG and depend on your average riding style, its should be 10-15% for XC, 15-20% for AM and 20% for DH and FR... as this bike is an FS, I should suggest that you set to 10-15%, so for 100mm of travel, about half inch of SAG... But its only as reference, you can adjust it like you want, to fell more comfortable... just be sure not to set it to low (to keep a safe up bump distance) or too high (to keep enough travel for nice hits)...

    So...

    Road =>lock
    Urban =>low rebound (slow)
    MTB =>high rebound (quick)
    Preload (top knob, screw in or out) =>half inch
    Rebound => under knob, screw in or out
    lockout =>on/off turn knob on top (other side then the preload usually)

    Enjoy!
    Quote Originally Posted by Remy Darke View Post
    The preload sets the fork sag which should be about 30mm on that fork. The rebound sets how fast the fork extends so you can set it to the terrain and how you like it. Turning toward the rabbit/turtle makes the fork extend faster/slower.

    Edit: David C summed it up pretty well.

    thanks guys thats cleared it up.. there was now info that came with the bike on the forks.

  23. #23
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    I'm sad and disappointed. The least they could do was spell "conquer" right...

    "Concur any and all cross country trails with the Warrior 3.5 which features suspension frame and fork to maintain stability and control through bumps, rocks and roots." (Iron Horse Website)
    It's not about what bike you ride, but how hard you tear it up

  24. #24
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    Time to move on folks. Iron Horse is dead. What is being brought back is some souless multi-national creature that will share geometry and design with the other Doral brands. Think Ford, Mercury, Lincoln in the 70's and 80's. Same vehicle with different name plates.

  25. #25
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    Dorel sells products under many other brand names besides its own. A list of brands includes the following:

    Atra
    Ameriwood
    Babideal
    Baby Relax
    Bebeconfort
    Bertini
    Bootiq
    Cannondale
    Carina
    Cosco
    DHP
    Go Safe
    GT Bicycles



    In Step,
    Maxi-Cosi
    Monbebe
    Mongoose
    Mother's Choice
    Quinny
    Ridgewood
    Roadmaster
    Safety 1st
    Schwinn
    System Build
    SUGOI
    Zuzu

    In February 2008, Dorel announced their acquisition of Cannondale Bicycle Corporation.
    In July 2009, Dorel announced their acquisition of Iron Horse

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