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  1. #1
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    Any estimate what my used mkIII parts would sell for?

    I have a cracked rear triangle on my 2008mkIII. my options are: 1) sell frame to 20lbs lighter buddy real cheap and let him get it welded or 2) take apart and sell parts

    id be selling:
    front triangle
    swingarm
    fox float r
    rock shock recon fork
    front wheelset (stock dt swiss 340 i think)

    I bought it new in spring 2009 so its really only had a year of riding on it, and the parts are otherwise in good condition.

    i know if i sell it all to my bro, I'll give him a really good deal. It would be good to know what I could expect if I sold the used parts separately.

  2. #2
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit
    I have a cracked rear triangle on my 2008mkIII. my options are: 1) sell frame to 20lbs lighter buddy real cheap and let him get it welded or 2) take apart and sell parts

    id be selling:
    front triangle
    swingarm
    fox float r
    rock shock recon fork
    front wheelset (stock dt swiss 340 i think)

    I bought it new in spring 2009 so its really only had a year of riding on it, and the parts are otherwise in good condition.

    i know if i sell it all to my bro, I'll give him a really good deal. It would be good to know what I could expect if I sold the used parts separately.
    Well, I can tell you what you can expect for a cracked swingarm.........

    I'd be interested in the shock mounting hardware (the bolts).
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  3. #3
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    the swingarm is FINE
    its the rear triangle thats cracked.

    was just interested in ballpark for those parts to have an idea. might still be selling to buddy

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit
    the swingarm is FINE
    its the rear triangle thats cracked.

    was just interested in ballpark for those parts to have an idea. might still be selling to buddy
    The rear triangle IS the swingarm. What part are you talking about when you say "swingarm"?
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    The rear triangle IS the swingarm. What part are you talking about when you say "swingarm"?
    oh woops, my noob is showing!

    i thought the swingarm was the rear suspension piece that connects to the rear triangle, front triangle, and shock. what is that?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit
    oh woops, my noob is showing!

    i thought the swingarm was the rear suspension piece that connects to the rear triangle, front triangle, and shock. what is that?
    I think in this case it is called the upper link. The one below is the lower link. I think it could also be called a rocker, not sure.

    Seriously, PM me if you part this thing out, I'm looking for new shock mountain bolts. if your are not stripped out (like mine are )
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    I think in this case it is called the upper link. The one below is the lower link. I think it could also be called a rocker, not sure.

    Seriously, PM me if you part this thing out, I'm looking for new shock mountain bolts. if your are not stripped out (like mine are )
    Have you seen this bit of kit?
    http://enduroforkseals.com/id323.html

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    Have you seen this bit of kit?
    http://enduroforkseals.com/id323.html
    Nice, thanks. I may be ordering some bearing from them soon, I may add these.

    EDIT: $42 per end? Whoa, maybe not.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    Nice, thanks. I may be ordering some bearing from them soon, I may add these.

    EDIT: $42 per end? Whoa, maybe not.
    True $42 is a bit much but it also replaces the reducer and bearing and gets rid of the need to use the 10mm bolt hardware... And it reduces bearing stiction for better small bump compliance. In theory...
    But I hear ya...
    I think I will probably get a top one and use the original for the bottom.
    I have spare bolts so I am set for another 5 years...

  10. #10
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    yah so it looks like ill be selling my MKIII in parts as opposed to selling to a buddy.

    might be a few weeks or a month, but I will post up and let people know when its for sale

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    True $42 is a bit much but it also replaces the reducer and bearing and gets rid of the need to use the 10mm bolt hardware... And it reduces bearing stiction for better small bump compliance. In theory...
    But I hear ya...
    I think I will probably get a top one and use the original for the bottom.
    I have spare bolts so I am set for another 5 years...
    I'm sure it is a fair price for what it is, and on another bike I might drop the $84 for both ends when the time came, but I am very hesitant to drop much into this frame, seeing as it is already on it's 2nd triangle. Heck, I'm not sure I even want to invest in the suspension bearings. I just replaced them last year, and the lower rears are already shot again.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    I'm sure it is a fair price for what it is, and on another bike I might drop the $84 for both ends when the time came, but I am very hesitant to drop much into this frame, seeing as it is already on it's 2nd triangle. Heck, I'm not sure I even want to invest in the suspension bearings. I just replaced them last year, and the lower rears are already shot again.
    I hear ya, I didn't really think about the MKIII issues. I have been riding my 6point pretty hard for 3 seasons now and I haven't replaced any suspension bearings yet. I have a bunch of spare parts including lower link but everything is real tight still. I do clean and regrease my bearings with RocknRoll superweb grease and I am in a pretty dry environment. Good to know there is an option for sure but I do see that the MKIII is a losing proposition now with all the cracking issues.

    It's too bad a company doesn't buy the design and make the MKIII again seeing as DW prolly owns the design. With a beefier rear triangle...Of course!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    With a beefier rear triangle...Of course!
    And a beefier interface between the BB and seat tube. Seems to be quite a few front triangles that have failed that way, including mine..

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta
    Heck, I'm not sure I even want to invest in the suspension bearings. I just replaced them last year, and the lower rears are already shot again.
    doesn't it piss you off how fast those lower link rears go out? I'm at like two or three bearing changes a YEAR.

    I ride alot, but damnit it's annoying.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by wormvine
    True $42 is a bit much but it also replaces the reducer and bearing and gets rid of the need to use the 10mm bolt hardware... And it reduces bearing stiction for better small bump compliance. In theory...
    I installed the Enduro Fork Seal needle bearing kit on both ends of my MkIII's Fox Float over the weekend.

    It makes a bigger difference than I was expecting. Friction from the bushings was significant enough that I had to increase the amount of rebound damping after installing the kit. (It ended up being either two or three clicks worth.) Compression damping was also affected. The bike is now much more responsive to small bumps and responds earlier to large bumps.

    I think I will probably get a top one and use the original for the bottom.
    I think it makes sense as I don't think the lower pivot moves much at all. When removing the sleeve(s) that goes inside the bushing, I was able to push the top one out with my fingers. I couldn't budge the bottom one at all. I ended up pressing it out in much the same manner as is done with suspension bearings. (I used a couple of suitably sized sockets, a bolt, nut, and several washers.) This suggests to me that the bottom bushing was not worn much at all, whereas the top bushing was fairly worn. Had I not replaced it now, I probably would have in another several months.

    Also, in the past, I've never had to replace the bushing at the bottom end of the shock, whereas the top one needs regular replacement - I think I get between 6-9 months of use out of it.

    Overall, I'm very happy with this conversion. I'll be even happier if it holds up long term...

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