Sure does suck. I have alot of miles on it, about 14 months of ownership is all though. I ride generally xc singletrack about 3 times a week. No jump/drops over 2-3ft, and even those are a rarity. I weigh between 190-195lbs and I'm 6 foot 1.
Sucks, I'm a college student and can't afford an ibis or a turner. I loved this damn bike, that's the crappy part. The ibis looks like it matches the geo pretty damn perfectly though and is slightly cheaper than the turner. I might buy a rear triangle since repairing this in so many different spots is just asking for trouble. But a rear triangle is (as we all know) just a band-aid and it WILL break again.
Funny thing was that I had read all these threads and never thought it would happen to me. Just plain sucks.
well the flex is back. Rear try and dropouts feel SOLID...
it's flexing HARD on the lower link pivots. Not sure why. I've loctited em with blue and now with red and upgraded to 4mm bolts, they're in there nice and good.
Time to replace the good lower pivot? What can be the matter here?
I've been mojo shopping and have a lead on a 1500 dollar 09 demo frame, but that is 1500 bux. And an ibis would need a better fork and crankset. New fork would need a 20mm thru bolt wheel.....and voila its over 2 grand.
I love love love my ironhorse, and want this lower link flex to go away! Looks like I'll try new bearings again...but should I look into getting a new lower link as well?
I've been mojo shopping and have a lead on a 1500 dollar 09 demo frame, but that is 1500 bux. And an ibis would need a better fork and crankset. New fork would need a 20mm thru bolt wheel.....and voila its over 2 grand.
I love love love my ironhorse, and want this lower link flex to go away! Looks like I'll try new bearings again...but should I look into getting a new lower link as well?
Do you know for certain where the flex is coming from? Are you able to observe it when off the bike?
With regard to the bearings, did you get the ones with the extended inner race? If not, I can easily see how you could get flex from that area.
I'm not convinced that a new lower link will solve your problem. Unless you see something structurally wrong with it, like a crack, I doubt that there's much opportunity for flex in the link itself.
With regard to the Ibis, you could move over many of your MkIII parts and upgrade the fork and crankset later on when more funds are available.
it must be something else. even when my bearings were shot there was only a little flex under high load or laterally if i pushed on the seat tube with my foot. perhaps the hardware is toast?
A third of an inch! That's a lot of flex. I'd like to see the video.
On my old Hollowpoint, there were spacers (looked like thick washers) both fore and aft, and on each side (left and right) of the link between the bearing and the frame member associated with that part of the link. If you left the spacers out, you'd likely get a lot of flex. (Never tried it though.)
The MkIII uses bearings with an extended inner race to take the place of the spacers in the rear of the lower link. (Actually, the bearings are mounted in the swingarm.) Not sure about the front as I don't recall what that part of it looked like when I had it apart.
Anyway, if you're missing a spacer (where applicable) or didn't use bearings with the extended inner race, or had oriented the race the wrong way when you installed replacement bearings, that could cause the flex that you're seeing. Not saying that you did any of these things, but it's worth checking.
06 - it was purchased used about 2 years ago... i rode it all over,, not jumps or anything just florida trails ..... was right about to sell it to a guy in ca and while cleaning it up i found the cracks.....
06 - it was purchased used about 2 years ago... i rode it all over,, not jumps or anything just florida trails ..... was right about to sell it to a guy in ca and while cleaning it up i found the cracks.....
Just FYI, those ebay rear triangles won't work, as is, with an '06 frame. They only work with '07 and later. (I think you can make them work with an '06 by using an '07 or later lower link.)
It might, depending on the stroke, but I would not do it. There are threads on here addressing this question. The action of the DW-Link relies on it behaving certain ways at specific points in the travel. With a longer shock length, you will be changing where the bike is in it's travel.
thanks! I do have a 5th Element air 7.5 x 2; however i don't have the mounting reducers and don't know where to get them from. I guess the correct size is 6 x 30, but i'm not sure...could you please confirm?
thanks! I do have a 5th Element air 7.5 x 2; however i don't have the mounting reducers and don't know where to get them from. I guess the correct size is 6 x 30, but i'm not sure...could you please confirm?
thanks! I do have a 5th Element air 7.5 x 2; however i don't have the mounting reducers and don't know where to get them from. I guess the correct size is 6 x 30, but i'm not sure...could you please confirm?
Look for the post titled "MkIII shock mounting hardware".
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