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  1. #1
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    Angleset for 6 Point?

    Did I read right where Cane Creek came out with an external angleset that will allow for either a full one degree or half degree of slack for zero stack 44 headtubes? Who wouldn't be excited about slackening their 6 Point a degree?! Anyone do this yet? I have heard rumbling of clicking problems with anglesets in general but have no experience with them myself.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086
    Did I read right where Cane Creek came out with an external angleset that will allow for either a full one degree or half degree of slack for zero stack 44 headtubes? Who wouldn't be excited about slackening their 6 Point a degree?! Anyone do this yet? I have heard rumbling of clicking problems with anglesets in general but have no experience with them myself.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    I haven't heard anything but the OP of this thread is making "made to order" slackening headsets. It looks like he is doing a zerostack version.
    5 spot with ~67 deg. HTA (or maybe a bit less)

  3. #3
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    Um, Yea!!! I've been all over this as well. The May issue of Decline magazine shows the 44/44 Angleset on a Turner 5 Spot. I’ve just waiting for it to show up on Cane Creek's website so I can buy one!

    Saar's headsets seem pretty appetizing as well. Like Wormvine mentioned, they’re custom made to order, they use a different system than CC, and they can have more of a range of slackening than the 1 degree that CC will offer.

    I'm almost starting to consider Saar’s over CC's angleset. I've been hearing a lot of mixed reviews over CC's Angleset. People say that with the gimbal system, the headset comes loose, and people have to always tighten it back up. Also, on minor spills, it twists the handle bars easier. That could get annoying. Still want to look into and hear more opinions about it.

  4. #4
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    Yeah, Saar's look nice but our dollar is worthless right now and I can't afford a $190 headset. Looks like CC can be just as expensive depending on the model tho! Someone posted one on their Reign in the Giant forum so they are available now.

    Cheers,

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

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    A guy on the Ridemonkey board was talking about installing one from Works Components.

    http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=241181

    I don't see the proper unit of the WC website though.

  6. #6
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    For a slacker HA you could try a headset externalizer on your 6 Point. I did run one on my 6 point and it helped somewhat. I used the one sold by Real World Cycled (http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id183.html - no affiliation to this company). Slackened out the bike by almost 1 degree.

    Good luck of getting your ride dialed.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    For a slacker HA you could try a headset externalizer on your 6 Point. I did run one on my 6 point and it helped somewhat. I used the one sold by Real World Cycled (http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id183.html - no affiliation to this company). Slackened out the bike by almost 1 degree.

    Good luck of getting your ride dialed.
    Yup, I have one and works fine but not ideal as it raises the BB height making for compromised cornering and climbing.

    Have FUN!

    G
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  8. #8
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    Cane Creek EC44/ZS44 Angleset now on their website! Looks like the external cup is now on top.

    http://www.canecreek.com/component-h...C44%20|%20ZS44

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminator Z View Post
    Cane Creek EC44/ZS44 Angleset now on their website! Looks like the external cup is now on top.

    http://www.canecreek.com/component-h...C44%20|%20ZS44
    Bummer, looks like too much stack height for me to use my current fork. Will have to go with Saar's version for another $50 but his goes up to 1.5 deg. Pic in this thread: 44|44 angleset

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gman086 View Post
    Bummer, looks like too much stack height for me to use my current fork. Will have to go with Saar's version for another $50 but his goes up to 1.5 deg. Pic in this thread: 44|44 angleset

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    nevermind.
    Last edited by wormvine; 05-29-2011 at 05:09 PM.

  11. #11
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    Damn, I was just about to start a thread and then I saw this one.

    http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/10-...adset-69-p.asp

    Works just came out with theirs. I'm running only one spacer with my fork right now. Think the stack height will be too much with the CC angleset?

    How do I figure out the total length added to my head tube for total stack height?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92SE-R View Post
    Damn, I was just about to start a thread and then I saw this one.

    http://www.workscomponents.co.uk/10-...adset-69-p.asp

    Works just came out with theirs. I'm running only one spacer with my fork right now. Think the stack height will be too much with the CC angleset?

    How do I figure out the total length added to my head tube for total stack height?
    Looks like theirs is 9mm lower added to 15mm upper stack height for a total of 24mm. My steerer tube is simply cut too short for these not-to-mention I don't like adding any stack height under the headtube as that just raises the front wich is what I'm trying to avoid! It looks like the least added stack height will be with Saar's design - 0-2mm on bottom and 15-18mm on top?

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall View Post
    For a slacker HA you could try a headset externalizer on your 6 Point. I did run one on my 6 point and it helped somewhat. I used the one sold by Real World Cycled ([]] - no affiliation to this company). Slackened out the bike by almost 1 degree.

    Good luck of getting your ride dialed.
    There's a lot of headsets from Nuke Proof suiting for the same purpose. 44 mm internal diameter with external lower cup both normal and deep cup. You can find it on chain reaction cycles but i don't know how convenient it could be for USA buyers (just for matter of shipping costs).
    If you don't know this brand i can say is a good one ;-) I have both a 760mm handlebar (very light and strong) and also a seatpost that could be I nice substitute for a thomson elite at a cheaper price (at least for a european buyer) and a little lighter weight

    ps: neither I have any affiliation to this company

  14. #14
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    Thats my 6 Point 7 with -2° Works Components headset.
    (edit cannot post pic properly as I need to have 10 posts beforehand..)



    My steerer is mighty short too. Only 28mm available for stem (which I flipped). It's working but really on the limit as I can see that the top gap is smaller than the bottom gap at the screws (stem is 35mm high, so ideal would be 32-33mm free length).

    With 180mm fork it is now superslack 64.13°. Yeehaa, attack that gnar stuff. (it exchanges my 7 Point 2007 medium because I wanted lower bottom bracket and even slacker HA (my 7 point is at 65°).

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
    Thats my 6 Point 7 with -2° Works Components headset.
    (edit cannot post pic properly as I need to have 10 posts beforehand..)
    You're almost there. I wanna see it!

  16. #16
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    well nothin...

  17. #17
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    Here we go:

    Cannot make closeup as right now the bike is at my LBS to grind out 7cm of my seattube (last 12cm are not ground) so even though I'm using a 30mm seattube it does not go in fully

  18. #18
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    Sketchy-steering can be tamed by using one rising-point when you match your bars and stem, instead of a riser bar and a riser stem.

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    Well the bar is 18mm rise, and the stem is 6°. That's why I put the stem upside down.

    The headtube measures 135mm. Add the 24mm that are needed for external headset and you get to 159mm, before you can place the stem. I already use a superlow stem (just 35mm clamp height), but turning it upside down (instead of 5mm rise, it then gives 5mm lower - it's only 47mm long anyhow). On my 7 point I had 140mm plus 10mm spacer which was pretty much spot on (I had a 11mm thick lower cup - which I needed for frame clearance).

    True a flatbar and stem not flopped, would save some weight (maybe 25g?) and get me another 10mm lower.

    I'll still get offset bushings to get the angles about 1° flatter overall and BB 5mm lower. Then I'll get to 63° head angle, that sound mighty right for vertriding. No HA can be too flat if it gets gnarly steep.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
    No HA can be too flat if it gets gnarly steep.
    Yeah, you have so many angles introduced into the axis of steering control that you altered your angle of steering. You may have inadvertantly installed the disconnect between terrain feedback to your hands by seperating the right angles. Across-the-board a slackened HT Angle will track better over a steepened HT Angle, but a stem built with a rise will have a moment, a moment where it will act as a 0 deg. rise stem on its axis.
    There will also be a ramping-up to where your energy controling the steering angle exchanges energy doing this function upon the vertical axis.
    Regardless of where you will set your steering angle, forces trying to change it will act upon the weighted-effect perpindicular to the ground.

    I run zero-degree rise stems, rise @ my Handlebar and alter 1/8" stem height increases.

  21. #21
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    Correct me if I am wrong. But if you have a 50+Xmm 5° stem or a 50mm 0° stem and a spacer of Y, and both constructions result in the same handlebar position, then there is absolutely no difference on the forces (as long as the HA is not changed).

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
    Correct me if I am wrong.).
    You are wrong.

    But if you have a 50+Xmm 5° stem or a 50mm 0° stem and a spacer of Y...
    If you recall how any given amount of Torque is measured, by a Lever, you will see you have a large difference in end-to-end leverage.

    Quote Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
    ...and both constructions result in the same handlebar position...
    Here you're correct; the Handlebars resting at the same height.

    Quote Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
    ...then there is absolutely no difference on the forces (as long as the HA is not changed).
    You are ...wrong.
    Since your Head Tube on axis is also on a Plane, this is how leverage will try to move it; an unending plane of whatever angle. Your Handlebar height is a plane, introducing an angled stem alters impacts and forces across this plane.
    A stem which either raises or lowers the area of the handle bar by design at an angle, will factor this change.
    Turn the Handlebar 90 deg. from center -- left or right -- and this effect will be negated. Just as the incremental changes up to these opposing points will feel greatest from when the stem and bars are pointed straight.
    The induced-feel is then changed from damping the on-axis-forces with a angled-stem; as the steering reachs limits forces twinly switch to the perpindicular-axis, from which any angle is based from.

    What is being done with introducing all these height and position variables is allowing any forces which directly effect the feel at the Handlebar an amplified-area between how they actually are channeled, felt and/or beamed.

    Get it? Your beams are not lined up.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima View Post
    You are wrong.


    If you recall how any given amount of Torque is measured, by a Lever, you will see you have a large difference in end-to-end leverage.
    But the lever is the same. It would be different if I changed something blow the headtube, then I alter the lever. But as the point I'm moving around (front/rear axle) and the point of attack (all force goes through the headtube/fork shaft) is not changed, there is no different lever.

    Or more exact, there would be a significant change if to reach the position the stem length would differ substantial - if you add 2 spacer and flip the stem, and arrive at the same position, no lever is changed at all (assuming no (significant) flex in your system). If you would add 1 spacer and use a 0° stem, yes then you slightly decrease the lever.

    However I doubt 5° flip/ 0° / 5° flop are noticeable for stems around 45-50mm. The position you arrive at is much more important and will be noticed (I clearly notice 1cm higher/lower handlebar, can make a heck of a difference).

  24. #24
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    Idea!

    You are missing the main point here.

    Take two lines, have them arrive at a Right Angle. That is also it's 'Square'.
    Any effort applied to any one of these ends will effect only this angle squarely. Applying energy to the squared-end will also effect the angle, squarely. Technically, it's ideal operational point.

    That is baseline when overcoming types of momentum changes. Point 'A' to Point 'B' will always be a straight line for efficiencies sake.

    So your HandleBar in relation to your Steerer will always have that relationship by design, taking the Handlebar of whatever height and introducing an angled-plane (riser-stem) will reduce the amount of direct on-plane/on-axis feel to your hands. Damping.

    Instead of this squared-effect using a zero-rise stem across the Axis-Angle, steering becomes varied and quickened when panning from center-left and center-right. These are the points where Axis-Angle has no effect due to a Square-Angle being incrementally achieved.

    Really now, we have way too much thinking! You're trying to get a 63 deg. HT Angle, which is not offered. Headset cups, spacers, riser stem, riser bars create a large disconnect from your square-angle found at the Steer-Tube, no matter what quality of components you choose or who installs them. It is your bike in the end and do what you want when you want to.

    Not using a stem w/ zero-rise however, you will lose the consistent working-radius offered from it. The right set of Handlebar Upsweep (most critical) and BackSweep, this does actually provide slow steering by not altering a steering angle's working radius. And not altering the Steering Axis Angle inside of a set angle, which is the Headtube by itself.

    MTBR does not have a Handlebar/Stem Forum for good reason. As this type of discussion can go on for Hours.
    Days.
    Weeks.
    Months.

    But I digress.
    Last edited by Uncle Jemima; 07-06-2011 at 08:03 AM.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by extremecarver View Post
    Correct me if I am wrong. But if you have a 50+Xmm 5° stem or a 50mm 0° stem and a spacer of Y, and both constructions result in the same handlebar position, then there is absolutely no difference on the forces (as long as the HA is not changed).
    You are correct that if the same handlebar is in the same position relative to the headtube, the steering will be the same. Some of the individual force vectors might change (handlebar to stem, stem to steertube....) but in the end, the force vectors as calculated from the bar to the headtube will be the same.

    Actually, what really matters is the position and orientation of the grips relative to the top of the headtube (assuming all else is equal). Whatever stem/spacer/bar combo you use to achieve that, the results will be the same. In theory, some configurations may flex more and in different directions than others. In reality you are unlikely to notice the difference if all the components are reasonably stiff.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    You are correct that if the same handlebar is in the same position relative to the headtube, the steering will be the same. Some of the individual force vectors might change (handlebar to stem, stem to steertube....) but in the end, the force vectors as calculated from the bar to the headtube will be the same.

    Actually, what really matters is the position and orientation of the grips relative to the top of the headtube (assuming all else is equal). Whatever stem/spacer/bar combo you use to achieve that, the results will be the same. In theory, some configurations may flex more and in different directions than others. In reality you are unlikely to notice the difference if all the components are reasonably stiff.
    "Force Vectors"??
    Not the same as the path of least resistance --A (handlebar) to B (stem angle if applicable) to C (steerer and it's axis-angle) -- have been interrupted with a given angle.

    Input-Leverage then is decreased from this non-square A to B to C, creating the illusion of slower-steering.

    In fact such a change becomes nil when approaching the Square of perpindicular-axis common to Steering.

    This really is a non-issue, enhancing what appears to be many counter-productive efforts when a bike is uncomfortable, only more.

    Easy 'A' -- Larger Front Tire, Wider Handlebar w/ less up-sweep, non-riser stem.
    And 75-100 slow sit-ups every Morning.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima View Post
    "Force Vectors"??
    Not the same as the path of least resistance --A (handlebar) to B (stem angle if applicable) to C (steerer and it's axis-angle) -- have been interrupted with a given angle.

    Input-Leverage then is decreased from this non-square A to B to C, creating the illusion of slower-steering.

    In fact such a change becomes nil when approaching the Square of perpindicular-axis common to Steering.

    This really is a non-issue, enhancing what appears to be many counter-productive efforts when a bike is uncomfortable, only more.
    I don't follow anything you are saying on this subject, it is all garbled and cryptic to me. I can't even tell if you are agreeing with me or not

    Bottom line is that his assumption is correct about the handling being the same, regardless of the stem/spacer combo used to achieve a given bar position.

    This is well understood by anyone who knows anything about this, and is nothing new. If there is any doubt about this, I advise him (or you, if you care) to ask about this in some board that gets more traffic than the IH board. Someone else there might have the energy to debate or explain the physics, but I do not.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  28. #28
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    Ok, so i don't yet have enough posts to make a new thread and its late here in the uk and i just had a thought (note i don't have the time to take my 6 point apart right now or search the forums).

    What are your thoughts on fitting a taper set to a 6 point either by milling the headtube or with a an external cup? just a thought as i am going to buy new forks soon and wondered if anybody thinks it can be done or is worth it.

    On another note does anybody have any experience with milling the seat tube to 30.9? does it work well?

    Sorry if these seem stupid questions id just like some quick opinions whilst i'm short on time right now.

    Thanks guys

    Tim

  29. #29
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    It worth more to get angled reducer cups and use a 1 1/8 fork IMHO. Head angle is really steeeeeeeeep.

    IMHO the 6 point is anyhow simply the successor to the 7 point, but they needed to sell of the 7 point, so they put the 6 point at 160mm. For me it's designed as 180mm freeride tour bike, that will still take any big drop with smiles.

    Just put in a good 2.75 damper (if its steel and thereby true 226mm, then maybe put some offset bushings in to get the damper down to 222mm length (sorry, have not yet seen any steel damper that offered true 2.75inch on 222mm length, Fox and Zocchis that I have measured were all 4mm too long, while the air 2.75 shocks, never had more than 2.6 travel but come in true 222mm).

    It's a great bike, and the frame ain't heavy (for a bike that takes anything you smash it in).

  30. #30
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    yeah i have a 2.75 dhx5 and the dhx air to swap in for those real long trail days (at 127kg i suck with a coil spring uphill lol) my zocchi 66's are giving up the ghost however and rather than service them i'm buying new forks looking to lyric coil rc2dh 170mm just thought it might be nice to get the taper set in there somehow.

    The curse of the engineer you see........'if it isnt broke it doesnt have enough features yet xD'

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    I bet a tapered Lyric is still anywhere as stiff as a 66. You can get a tapered inside, but then with outside bearings I think it will actually be less stiff, than plain 1 1/8 (and the weight you loose on the fork, you gain on the headset).

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Bottom line is that his assumption is correct about the handling being the same, regardless of the stem/spacer combo used to achieve a given bar position.
    I don't follow anything you are saying because you are just worried about a greater Posts Number. You don't own an Iron Horse and bash anyone and anything not supporting your quest of getting a free-frame.

    "Butt-Hurt-Troll''?

    Me? Sure, neighbor. Last year I printed-off threads I endured that are still active; there were 8800+ posts under your SN. Do you have Attention Deficit? You can finish with Disorder from your posts.


    'Force Vectors'.



    I rest my case.

    A Vector is arrived upon from a one-constant-input, where there are varied-compound-inputs to a Handlebar. Having an Acute Angle mate an Obtuse Angle (making the 180 deg. Steerer plane/axis) any effort made to change attitude will have this fraction-of-true-square percentage applied to it --
    Applied compromise of false-feeling of slower-steering, as opposed true damped Inputs at the Handlebar-ends.

    The Handlebar will not have the squared relationship to impacts and changes in attitude at the Steerer because the 0-offset stem is replaced with an angled stem, and any forces fed to the handlebars are altered accordingly.
    A compromise to having a reduced kick-back over consistant working-radius for steering.

    That's it.

    Post On Brother!!!

    This Stem in question is turned upside-down even; quickens Steering from center.

    Really -- don't raise Hell because of a broken bike.
    Hell's Too Full.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima View Post
    I don't follow anything you are saying because you are just worried about a greater Posts Number. You don't own an Iron Horse and bash anyone and anything not supporting your quest of getting a free-frame.

    "Butt-Hurt-Troll''?

    Me? Sure, neighbor. Last year I printed-off threads I endured that are still active; there were 8800+ posts under your SN. Do you have Attention Deficit? You can finish with Disorder from your posts.


    'Force Vectors'.



    I rest my case.



    Post On Brother!!!
    ....................

    Really -- don't raise Hell because of a broken bike.
    Hell's Too Full.
    Well that^^^^^ was all pretty over the top, don't you think?

    Despite your steam of consciousness / logic that I cannot hope to follow, he is still correct, that if the bar is in the same position (I assume he means both height and reach), then the handling will be the same. Sorry, but this is correct, and this is pretty common knowledge. Go onto other boards and ask, or ask anybody knowledgeable that you want. I'm sure they will not be able to make heads or tails of your cryptic argument (though I know from reading your other posts that you don't always write like this), but they will back up my point.

    Getting a free frame? Where do you come up with this stuff?
    Last edited by kapusta; 07-07-2011 at 11:16 AM.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Well that^^^^^ was all pretty over the top, don't you think?

    Despite your steam of consciousness / logic that I cannot hope to follow, he is still correct, that if the bar is in the same position (I assume he means both height and reach), then the handling will be the same. Sorry, but this is correct, and this is pretty common knowledge. Go onto other boards and ask, or ask anybody knowledgeable that you want. I'm sure they will not be able to make heads or tails of your cryptic argument (though I know from reading your other posts that you don't always write like this), but they will back up my point.

    Getting a free frame? Where do you come up with this stuff?
    You have no Iron Horse.
    You are on the Iron Horse forum pan-handling the MarkIII.
    I know or work for Ralph Weidberg or whom-ever, or am a quote/unquote ''Butt-Hurt-Troll'' as asserted and maintained in a thread you started and MTBR locked. Whatever, Bro.

    But back to Topic:

    If the handling is in no way, shape, or form any different, why do 'Risers' exist?

    Shallow Pocket Changers, whatever your answer is going to be.

    Ride a Bike.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima View Post
    I know or work for Ralph Weidberg or whom-ever, or am a quote/unquote ''Butt-Hurt-Troll'' as asserted and maintained in a thread you started and MTBR locked. Whatever, Bro.
    I don't remember saying any of that about you. I may at some point have sarcastically implied some relation to RW (a link could shake my memory), but "butt-hurt-troll" is not my style.

    Regarding the locked thread: if you really want to drag all that garbage up again, feel free to link to it and anyone who cares can read it and see who turned that into such a *****fest. Personally, I'd be pretty embarrassed to do so if I were you.

    I'm not going to waste my time with this while you are just being offensive and obnoxious. Why are you even bothering me here to start with? My initial post on this topic was not even addressed to you, it had nothing to do with you. It just happens to contradict something you said, and you start going off the deep end. I purposely refrain from responding to your posts I do not agree with (unless they are addressed directly to me) so as to avoid this crap.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  36. #36
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    By the beard of Zeus!

    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    ...Sorry, but this is correct, and this is pretty common knowledge. Go onto other boards and ask, or ask anybody knowledgeable that you want.
    Antony and Cleopatra!

    Uncle Jonathan's corn-cob pipe!

    Son of a bee-sting!

    Great Odin's raven!

    Sweet Lincoln's mullet!



  37. #37
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    Quickly, back to substance and Thread-Topic. And ExtremeCarver.
    Nothing I said as the topic was driven off-topic was directed-at or to be critical-of you, Buddy. MTBR docked 'Rep-Power' (whatever that means), I'm sure I'll be fine.
    You honestly posed a Question. The last picture I just added only illustrates the point being made and ties things together for anyone else who views this Forum as a Member, or not.

    Regarding KAPUSTA: a couple Years-ago Kapusta did not respond well when told he maintains irresponsible threads by me who joined in the middle of debate. Iron Horse was answering to a Court of Law regarding questionable Business-Practice. I didn't need the attention being given to these Threads, obviously now Kapusta is sore. If Kapusta needs to run topics into the ground because Kapusta thinks it's a place to Party, tough-luck. I'm not having it.

    Back on bikes, best thing for you to do Bro is to experiment with the simple things. Angleset? I'm not a fan of the concept, though I'm sure with alot of trail & error it will ride fine. It is such a throw-away to a bike though, unless you are a Racer with a hardcore circuit to Champion.
    Play with tires choices and tire pressures first, and always. Even a different dimension/cut of tire will cause big change. Big thing to remember is that Gravity is always in full-force; you want to respect that when putting any change between you & the ground under you. Bars and Stem? Probably the biggest selling-point on any bike. BMX, Road or Mtn. This as I run 30" DH bars--upside-down--w/ Bar-Ends on a Road Bike.
    I had run a 50mm/6 deg. rise stem and with it I just could not ride my 6POINT4. It was just terrible. Getting back in touch with my BMX roots with the flat stem, it's alright.

    I really will try to avoid conflict. I come on here to maintain basics and allow bikes to keep being fun and free.
    Putting the Fun between your Legs.

  38. #38
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    I think you guys may be overthinking this steering thing...it's only mountain biking afterall. I didn't follow any of it, but I'll study up over the weekend and see if I come up with anything.
    What's rep power?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Jemima View Post
    Regarding KAPUSTA: a couple Years-ago Kapusta did not respond well when told he maintains irresponsible threads by me who joined in the middle of debate. Iron Horse was answering to a Court of Law regarding questionable Business-Practice. I didn't need the attention being given to these Threads, obviously now Kapusta is sore. If Kapusta needs to run topics into the ground because Kapusta thinks it's a place to Party, tough-luck. I'm not having it.
    Wow, I had given you the opportunity to let that subject drop, I am amazed you continue to peruse it.

    Here is the thread in question, for anyone who cares can see what actually happened, as opposed to this nonsensical summary UJ just provided. I had not planned on embarrassing him with this, but since he making some false implications about what I did, I feel it appropriate to post a link to the actual event:

    Latest IH in the news....

    He came into that thread (which was very relevant to people at the time wondering what the status of IH was, particularly in regard to warranty issues), did everything he could to derail it and get it locked (which it finally was, largely due to his antics), and then made some lame-@ss attempt to blame it on me that it went off topic. Like I say in the thread, it's like someone coming into your house, taking a crap on your carpet, and then blaming you for the mess. It was so absurd that it was actually comical.

    UJ: I'm not sore about it at all. I had long forgotten about it, but I got a real kick out of it when I went back and read some of it. I can't believe you of all people would bring it up, I would be way too embarrassed by it if I were you. You have clearly not gotten over it, as evidenced in this thread where you brought it up in response to my disagreement with you on a technical point regarding steering.
    Last edited by kapusta; 07-09-2011 at 02:52 PM.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  40. #40
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    Back to the topic...
    I recently installed the angleset headset on my IH 7point - basically the same geometry as the six point. rode this set-up on whistler last week, and loved it! I slakened things out 1.5 degrees. made a world of difference on how the bike felt in corners, etc. go for it on the 6point, you will be happy!

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