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Thread: SX3 questions

  1. #1
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    SX3 questions

    Has anyone had any experience with the Sturmey Archer SX3 hub? My main questions are about durability and gearing. I would like to use the hub on a monstercross bike, mostly fire roads and tamer single track. Will the hub hold up to off road use? Also, I didn't see any gear reduction ratings on SA's website. Does anyone know what is the maximum gear reduction the hub can handle? I know this isn't the traditional use of the hub, but I would appreciate any information you might have.

    -Rob.

  2. #2
    trail rat
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    Still not available in 135mm spacing.
    Interbike-Sturmey Internal 3 spd fixed

    Some wheels with 120mm spacing have leaked it appears.
    Interbike-Sturmey Internal 3 spd fixed
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  3. #3
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    Are you implying that, because it is not made in 135, it's not intended for off-road use? Or are you wishing they made it for your mountain bike? The axle is 168 mm; I imagine that one could add two 2.5 mm spacers and be fine or that chainstays could flex that much without a problem.

    BTW, I'll be using it on a fantom cross uno, with 120 mm rear spacing. Should work fine

    Any more thoughts on durability?

    -Rob.

  4. #4
    trail rat
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    Quote Originally Posted by robcycle
    Are you implying that, because it is not made in 135, it's not intended for off-road use? Or are you wishing they made it for your mountain bike? The axle is 168 mm; I imagine that one could add two 2.5 mm spacers and be fine or that chainstays could flex that much without a problem.

    BTW, I'll be using it on a fantom cross uno, with 120 mm rear spacing. Should work fine

    Any more thoughts on durability?

    -Rob.
    It is not available in 135mm spacing to fit a mountain bike YET. I will get one for one of my bikes when it is. I love my TomiCogs and riding fixed.

    Just sayin' you will not get reviews or thoughts cause no one has been able to lay hands on one. You could be the first! Get one, ride the pee outta it on your mountain bike and report! Hurry now.....
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  5. #5
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    Interesting hub!
    Would there be a jolt when shifting a fixed hub?
    You're pedaling along at 70 rpm at 50" then all the sudden you shift to 75" and the pedals instantly start moving at a different speed.
    It might take a bit of getting used too.
    I've played on off road fixie with a tomicog, but find it annoying for road and dirt road. multiple gears could help that.

    This could also be just the thing for Ted Wojcik's recumbent lawnmower - multiple gears, plus the ability to back up!

  6. #6
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    Makin' it work.

    OK, so I've got a 130 OLD SX3. I'm working towards respacing it to 135 and using it on an MTB (On-One Inbred actually). Here is what I'm dealing with:

    1) The axle is plenty wide enough to do this. BUT.

    I would like to run a chaintug - none is available with the "double d" hole to take axle torque, so you need to run both an antiturn washer (with the "double d" hole) and the chaintug on that side. Not a showstopper, but still a factor.

    Shifting adjustment on a SA hub is done by getting the mark on the "indicator" chain into the window(s) on the axle nut. The 130 nut has the windows jammed up against the wrench hex - and now I want to move the nut 2.5mm further out. Shift adjustment will have to be "fudged". But this would be the case due to different dropout thicknesses, so just a "thing".

    2) Sealing of the hub vs the MTB world.

    The hub itself looks well sealed. I will be dealing with dust rather than mud, so I'm okay with that.

    That darn indicator chain! A conveyor belt that will move crud directly into the center of the hub mech. I'm trying to find something like a spark plug boot to cover this area.

    3) The only shifter available is a barend type. Not my choice for MTB.

    Paul Thumbies! Or rather, Thumbie - available singly from Paul Components. The SA shifter uses Shimano mounting style, but the shifter is fatter than a Shimano and you will have to file the Thumbie a bit to clear.

    I'm waiting for rims and some other things, but will post the built/respaced wheel when done.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  7. #7
    Bike Dork
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester
    That darn indicator chain! A conveyor belt that will move crud directly into the center of the hub mech. I'm trying to find something like a spark plug boot to cover this area.
    I've used surgical tubing in the past. I did it with zip-ties at each end and it worked ok, though you have to get the tension on the tubing just right or it could cause the hub to slip out of gear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester
    That darn indicator chain! A conveyor belt that will move crud directly into the center of the hub mech. I'm trying to find something like a spark plug boot to cover this area.
    Riders reported 30,000 to 40,000 miles of trouble free service with S-A hubs using similar indicator chain shift designs 100 years ago. Just a thought.

    JD

  9. #9
    Dr Gadget is IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by john_dalhart
    Riders reported 30,000 to 40,000 miles of trouble free service with S-A hubs using similar indicator chain shift designs 100 years ago. Just a thought.

    JD
    Let me put it this way: This hub is going on a mt bike. I live in the desert southwest. Trail surfaces here are composed of dust, sand, gravel and cactus thorns. I've worked with enough cable systems to know how this stuff moves inwards. And to clean it out will require pretty much full disassembly.

    Also, I scored a rubber elbow (chrysler pcv part) and the bellows seal from a V-brake - which looks like it will serve the purpose.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

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