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  1. #1
    jrm
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    Sturmey Archer S2 feedback?

    ive read some real bad reviews but those were for the coaster brake version and im interested in the freewheel version for a pompino. Thanks

  2. #2
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    I have the S2C and it doesn't shift down very well. I believe that this is a problem inherent to the coster version though. I have also had issues in the lower gear where the paws on the higher gear catch making pedalling irregular. Shifting to the higher gear and then back down again usually solves this problem.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by justilew View Post
    I have the S2C and it doesn't shift down very well. I believe that this is a problem inherent to the coster version though. I have also had issues in the lower gear where the paws on the higher gear catch making pedalling irregular. Shifting to the higher gear and then back down again usually solves this problem.
    I got an early coaster one and the shifting progressively got more difficult. Weirdly for a while it would work fine one ride then hardly at all the next. I like riding it enough that I'm going to throw another hub at it for summer.
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  4. #4
    jrm
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    Is there a break in period?

    i couldnt find anything on the SA site. Thanks

  5. #5
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    I can't speak for the S2 specifically, but my Sturmey S-RF3 had a definite break-in period. There wasn't anything printed about it, but the hub worked more smoothly after the parts bedded in during the first couple hundred miles. I also had to adjust the bearings on my hub, as they were too tight when I received the hub. I've heard the S2 sometimes ships too tight as well.

  6. #6
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    I`ve been riding s2 for a year.

    Use it for qick b2w on hilly city.

    I have only good impression: clear and quick shifting. (maybe needs lubrication after 12 month o using)
    Hub is a little bit noisy, but its not bad in traffic

  7. #7
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    Looking to use this hub in a fixie-styled city bike this coming spring, but definently going with the freewheel version to keep the hub simpler, and avoid marks on the frame from the coaster brake arm.

    My other hub choice would be the Sram Automatix, anyone used that newer hub?

  8. #8
    jrm
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    I considered the Automatix

    but ruled it out b/c you cant control the shifts the way you can with the S2. I do however wish the 138% high gear was the 1 to 1 high gear, instead of the 1 to 1 gear being the low gear. Sure would be easier to set up and it'd be nice to have a climbing gear that you could spin.

  9. #9
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    Yes, the automatic part of the Automatix hub might be a issue, but a small one at that. Sram hubs have served me well, so I have good experience and that got me considering the new hub. I've also had Sturmey 3 speed hubs, with great luck even on quite old units, so for me it's a toss up. Just haven't heard alot of firsthand experience from riders on the Automatix since it's fairly new. The non-coaster SA (heard alot of good on the non-coaster) is my plan as of now for my upcoming build later this spring, unless I give the Sram a shot on limited info.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    but ruled it out b/c you cant control the shifts the way you can with the S2. I do however wish the 138% high gear was the 1 to 1 high gear, instead of the 1 to 1 gear being the low gear. Sure would be easier to set up and it'd be nice to have a climbing gear that you could spin.
    I'm planning to have a few cogs to experiment with the gearing for exactly that reason, wanting a good climbing gear (I also pull my kids around town in their trailer). I'll have the gearing low in the 1-1 and use the 138% as my normal riding gear, by going with a mountain crank (32 tooth single) rather than the typical 42 tooth track of fixie crank single ring, and pair that to a 16 or 18 rear... We'll see how that works when I actually get this build going in March or so.

  11. #11
    jrm
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    Best advice i can give you

    as you begin the gearing process is to use the sheldon brown gear calculator. it will save a lot of time.

  12. #12
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    I'm more of a seat of the pants test it. It's more fun that way. Sheldon has had some good info, not arguing that, but I like wrenching (but not quite as much as actually riding, missed it by thiiiiis much-holding up thumb & index fingers lol) and getting a few cogs and testing would be fun. Plus I'd end up with spare cogs, even if they're different sizes.

    All said, my fixie project is getting delayed until March when I have concrete word of which (or all) of the high end Mongoose models are going to be included in the return back to the USA this March. I'd love to throw a S2 on the Maurice!

  13. #13
    jrm
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    The gap in gear inches

    is wider if your only changing the rear cogs. average is like 4 to 6% whereas adding a single tooth to the chainring is 2 to 3%. Just something i noticed

  14. #14
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    That's what I had in mind, having a few rear cogs to try.

    I now have the Sturmey 2 speed with coaster on the Sun Spider I just picked up, and its great for that application.
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  15. #15
    Unhinged Aussie on a 29er
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    is wider if your only changing the rear cogs. average is like 4 to 6% whereas adding a single tooth to the chainring is 2 to 3%. Just something i noticed
    For reasons related to algebra that I can explain if you really want me to (but I assume 99% of you just don't care), you'll find the following statements to be true when comparing gear inches and gearing combinations:
    * The difference of 1T will be smaller on chainrings than cogs.
    * The difference of 1T will decrease as the chainrings get larger (e.g. 34T to 33T will have a larger impact on gear inches than 47T to 46T). However, manufacturing a large, perfectly round chain ring is quite difficult, so it will likely cost more to do this.
    * The difference of 1T on gear inches will decrease as the cogs get larger (e.g. 18T to 17T will have a smaller change in gear inches than 14T to 13T)
    * The difference of 1T on either will be larger on the chainrings than it will be on the cogs UNTIL you start running less than a 1:1 ratio, e.g. chainring = 24T, cog = 26T.

  16. #16
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    Sorry I missed this thread. Ive had a Sram automatix with coasterbrake for about a year. 42T chainring and the provided 19t cog. I love it.

    It took about 6 weeks to weed out the Sturmey Archer S2C. Two different hubs in addition to 2 sets of extra innards. The guy in Napa was quite helpful in replacing failing parts, and QBP in rebuilding the wheel. I think he's had a lot of practice with that.

    I've used SA 3 speed hubs for over 50 years and they've always been dependable, even when I didn't know any different. So I was hoping the S2C would turn out as well as they all did, and gave it my best shot. I was about to try the non coaster SA 2S thinking the less complicated the tasks might pay off, but I said F__ it, the weather's nice and I want to ride.

    The Sram Automatix has been great, they really delivered a prime product and followed it up with pretty weak promotion in the states.

    I don't think most people would miss the shifting. For me it's worked out well. 57 and 78 chain inches. For most starts off from the light, I'll stand (though it's possible to remain seated) and give it about 4 spins and it shifts to high, and at that I'll sit back down unless I'm in a hurry (always should be avoided). Other than approaching a hill in high knowing I'll need low and either having to brake to slow or coast to burn off speed for a down shift it's all straight forward. Most normal folks would probably continue standing in high, but my arthritic knees won't allow it.

    I'm toying with another 2 speed coaster brake, although I would like to try the 3 speed fixed. But I like the cable free and coaster brake aspects.

    Sorry for the long post I'll work on shortening things up, if I'm allowed to post again.

    Phil B

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