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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc
    Any experience with the N360 in winter (below freezing) riding? Thinking of using it on a commuter that doubles as an errand bike where the 1 x 9 is wide enough, but where a tweener ratio would be nice.
    I have been riding mine this winter in temps from -9 to 30 pretty regularly and have not noticed on difference between when its warm or cold out.

  2. #27
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    No problems in the cold here either. I live in MN, it's gotten to -10F in the past month.

    My bottom bracket has been the source of drag in the cold temperatures. Can't exchange the lube for something less viscous either, it's a cartridge BB.

  3. #28
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    just incase you all are in a shopping mood...
    http://store.icyclesusa.com/hub-rear...ck-p42686.aspx

  4. #29
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    Great review, thanks for taking time to post. Im really exited about this idea, again probably for a commuting bike. I have a Rohloff on my trail bike and a lot of the plus points you list are relevant to that too. I think one of these certainly has its place in the market, need to find one to try.

  5. #30
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    Glad to do it, just hope it helps some. It's a perfect hub for a commuter bike or riding fire roads or doubletrack. Singletrack it works fine but with steep punchy hills it will kill you. Either way I take it out when riding with (A) people that are slower than me (2) when I'm by myself trying to get more of a workout in less mileage, and (d) when I really don't want my gears to break on a specific ride. It's fun and worth riding, but I'm pretty sure I'll be the only one ever racing with it (obviously just for fun).
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  6. #31
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    How is the long term durability of this hub with the 32-22 setup?
    Quote Originally Posted by a stoned guy with a beer in his hand eyeballing your sisters bike
    "i fit my bike to fit me;not for looks...nice did you buy that bike from jc whitney?" Stoner Island 1984

  7. #32
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    Well, it'll all depend on your size/strength/mashiness, but I've used a 28/18 ratio on it the last couple times out with no issues, just the same old feelings as above. It seems that if you go really low with the ratio it will eventually just feel like slop, but there's nothing to indicate that it won't keep working and moving regardless.

    However, this is only on a couple rides, mostly longer gravel grinder rides, not singletrack, so long term is a really long way out and I won't be able to give a true long-term review for a while. After a while I went back to SS for general trail riding and was rewarded with superhuman strength and climbing ability. It's central NC, so the climbs are all short and punchy, which means you can attack in a SS and make it up without blowing up, so it's my preferred mode of singletrack riding around here.

    The N360 will still be swapped in for the occasional gravel grinder ride and will be a permanent addition when I finally live close enough to my job to commute by bike (currently 39 miles each way...that's just not happening on a bike on a daily basis...).

    If everyone were listening to me to decide what to do with this hub and no one else, then I'd say the best uses for it are:
    1) Casual/leisure bikes for commuting
    2) Gravel grinder workout bike
    3) Epic backcountry bikepacking

    Basically, check out Drew Diller's Pug, because that thing is basically invincible when it comes to having a bike that will take you anywhere and not break down and require almost zero maintenance (he'd need a belt drive for that . That's a pretty perfect application for the hub and sadly the best mountain biking use as well. It works, every time, but it's just not what 98% of people would ever want on a singletrack machine.


    I don't know how I got off on those tangents (again (and again)), but to your question: low gearing doesn't immediately have any impact on the hub, but I will report back when I have more miles on it.
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  8. #33
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    Thank you.

    Im an large guy as well, 6'2" 275 lol mostly muscle but hey Im 43 so yes a gut as well.

    I was thinking about building an frame to mount it mid-frame. But was just wondering before I started that endeavor to wait and see if lower gearing then they suggest will damage the hub.
    If it doesnt then I wouldnt need to build the frame.

    I live in New Mexico and there are alot of epic hills that I climb. For the reward of fyling back down or down the other side. But there are some area also where I rarely even need to shift. Still pretty hilly just dont need to shift. I guess I go from SS mentality to granny gear mentality in a schizo sort of an way.

    I guess you could say I ride all mountain/downhill but then I do bikepack as well. Or like I usually say I ride on dirt, rock, gravel, and even pavement, but mostly dirt and rock. :P

    I dont have alot of money so I cant afford ruining a hub which to me is rather expensive.

    Again thanx for the detailed information.
    Quote Originally Posted by a stoned guy with a beer in his hand eyeballing your sisters bike
    "i fit my bike to fit me;not for looks...nice did you buy that bike from jc whitney?" Stoner Island 1984

  9. #34
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    Good review.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by TBMD9er View Post
    Hey guys, great information. I want to take my first foray into IGH and I'm trying to decide between the Alfine 8 and the Nuvinci. I wanted to run a mountain dropbar type set-up, something like the Salsa Woodchipper or On-one midge.
    My question is there enough adjustability in the twist shifting mechanism to fit on a non-MTB sized bar which usually has a smaller diameter?
    If you go with the Alfine, get a J-Tek shifter. It is far better than the twist or the trigger, and is made for drop bars.

  11. #36
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    I am 6'5" 240 lb. 54 year old and am not into racing. Would the NuVinci N360 work well on a 22" single speed Kona Unit? I currently have 32:20 gearing and love the fact that my single speed does have any ghost shifting when I stand up and crank on the hills. I would also like a little more range than single speed allows. I primarily ride on dirt/gravel roads and bike paths and it would be nice to have gearing comparable to a 1X10, which the NuVinci 360 exceeds. I would probably need to swap out the hubs and rims and order pre-built wheel sets with the NuVinci N360.

    I normally ride my 2X10 Fargo on longer rides, but I don't like the ghost shifting. Would the NuVinci N360 offer me a better alternative and eliminate ghost shifting compared to other IGH options?
    Last edited by KanzaKrūzer; 09-06-2011 at 10:38 AM.
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  12. #37
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    I ramble, so I'll try to keep it short and to the point since most of these points have been discussed in detail above:

    Yes, this hub will completely eliminate any shifting problems you've ever had. Compared to other IGHs, you will enjoy the same shift-at-a-standstill benefits, but there will never be a time where your gears slip or ghost shift, which can happen with any other hub system that's not adjusted properly. The N360 is always in gear and transitions are as smooth as can be, the simplest system possible. You mash, it goes, no slippage. You will immediately fall in love with that.

    However, being a bigger dude, you may notice the lower efficiency in the lowest gear range, mainly just cranking up steeper hills (much less noticeable on average gravel grinder trips, better for that than singletrack for sure). The fact that you are just out for some exercise and not racing is ideal for the N360.

    Overall, you sound like a pretty ideal candidate for the NuVinci, so I would vote for trying it if you're looking for a bulletproof, non-frustrating, zero-maintenance geared option. If you think the slight drag in low gears might be a deal breaker, then I'd try one first (which is probably the issue, since they're hard to find unless you're in Portland, OR).
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by aTomOfAllTrades View Post
    I ramble, so I'll try to keep it short and to the point since most of these points have been discussed in detail above:

    Yes, this hub will completely eliminate any shifting problems you've ever had. Compared to other IGHs, you will enjoy the same shift-at-a-standstill benefits, but there will never be a time where your gears slip or ghost shift, which can happen with any other hub system that's not adjusted properly. The N360 is always in gear and transitions are as smooth as can be, the simplest system possible. You mash, it goes, no slippage. You will immediately fall in love with that.

    However, being a bigger dude, you may notice the lower efficiency in the lowest gear range, mainly just cranking up steeper hills (much less noticeable on average gravel grinder trips, better for that than singletrack for sure). The fact that you are just out for some exercise and not racing is ideal for the N360.

    Overall, you sound like a pretty ideal candidate for the NuVinci, so I would vote for trying it if you're looking for a bulletproof, non-frustrating, zero-maintenance geared option. If you think the slight drag in low gears might be a deal breaker, then I'd try one first (which is probably the issue, since they're hard to find unless you're in Portland, OR).
    Tom,

    Thanks for the clarification. I have read your review numerous time since you first posted last winter. I bought my single speed last January thinking the NuVinci would be my backup if the single speed did not work out. I love the simplicity of the single speed, but I would get more use out of the bike if it did not spin out so quickly. While I tried some single track, I prefer dirt and gravel roads. I don't need as much gear range as I have with my 2X10 Fargo, but the Nuvinci 360 sounds like the right fit for my needs and should adapt well with the Kona Unit.

    I have been surprised there are not been more users of the NuVinci 360. Of course I haven't seen much hype on the Alfine 11 either. I may buy a 36 hole NuVinci 360/P35 wheelset over the winter after I find a good online wheelbuilder. Building a wheelset is beyond my skill set. Your review has been very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to post your opinion!
    KanzaKrūzer
    Salsa Warbird | Kona Unit

  14. #39
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    Glad I could help! My take on it is it solves all the problems that I have with conventional derailleurs (and even other IGHs), at the expense of weight and inefficiency. The inefficiency is enough to keep it off the singletrack for me, but it's about as perfect of a commuter gear system as I've ever ridden, so it will forever be a gravel grinding/commuter hub for me.

    If you're wondering why it hasn't caught on with more riders, it's because of two reasons: (A) far too heavy for people looking at upgrading their bikes (2) not being able to try one and experience the feel of them. With the Alfine 11 it seems like it's more (A) price premium (2) durability, since the 8 has proven to be very reliable, the 11 has had more mixed reviews and costs more, which steers people away. Even still, more of both of them are starting to show up on more bikes.

    The NuVinci though is just too different of a product, fits a niche that is really hard to break into, especially with sport enthusiasts. The two biggest market segments for them really are people that are completely new to biking and are scared by traditional gear systems on leisure bikes, and nuts like us that just want all these specific benefits of such a strange new technology.

    Either way, sounds like it's a great fit for you. If you like big squishy tires for cushion too then the P35s would be excellent, but probably would be considered overkill for gravel grinding (but we're weird, so do what makes you happy!). As for good online wheel builders, Mike Curiak is one of the long-standing experts in the field and is a solid choice for reasonable pricing ( Lace Mine 29 - Big Bicycle Wheels ). I've also heard good reviews of Larry at Mountain High Cyclery, who also has great pricing on his standard builds ( Mountain High Cyclery ).
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  15. #40
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    I never came to a conclusion last spring whether to buy the NuVinci 360 or Alfine 11. I decided to ride the single speed for a season to see how I liked it and if I needed to upgrade to an IGH. I had hoped during that time the market feedback would help identify a winner between the NuVinci and Alfine.

    Both IGHs have a similar range, eliminate ghost shifting and appear to be durable. The Alfine 11 is 2 lbs. lighter and may have better resale value. The NuVinci is $225 less expensive, has smoother shifting, and may be more durable. I am still undecided.
    KanzaKrūzer
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  16. #41
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    That's a tough comparison, simply because they're so different. Both IGHs...that's about where the similarities end.

    The Alfine feels exactly like a standard derailleur in terms of shifting (yes, I know it feels different, but they have discrete gears that require shifting between them with pauses or gaps of some kind). The NuVinci is like nothing else. If you want to truly eliminate ghost shifting, forever, the N360 is it. The Alfine will be much better than a traditional setup, but will still require some adjustment from time to time to ensure proper gear alignment to account for cable stretch.

    The Alfine is significantly lighter, which makes a difference. However, it depends on what you're doing. If you're riding singletrack, it has a huge impact on effort required to loft the bike over things on the trail, really screwing up weight balance too, which takes a bit to get used to. However, if you're keeping both wheels on the ground, then it's just static weight really, which wont' be noticeable to you unless you're racing.

    Durability is another difficult one, because several people have had catastrophic failures with the Alfine 11, while the 8 has enjoyed much better success across the board in this category. For your purposes you probably won't be torquing out the hub mercilessly like on singletrack, but it's really a case-by-case basis. On the whole, reviews have called them durable and reliable. The N360 however, is 100% sealed for life. Aside from damage from punctures, ripping your shifter or cables off the bike in a collision, or the freewheel freezing up in crazy extremes somewhere, there really is nothing that can go wrong. Hell, even if you smash your shifter with a hammer halfway through a ride, you can still easily take the cables off by hand and change the gear by hand at the hub. So no matter what, you can still pedal, AND you can still change gear, albeit you probably need to stop to do so safely. If you want the ultimate in durability, the NuVinci wins, hands down. (like I said, the Alfine could be just as durable for you, but it has more potential for failure)

    So between the two, my gut feeling is you fall into the 2% of people that would love the N360 and you should go for it. But given the price for both, if you can find anyone at all with one to try, you should try both the N360 and either Alfine hub for comparison because they're both really awesome in profoundly different ways.
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  17. #42
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    While I keep both tires on the ground, I do like to stand up and crank up the steep hills. I can't do that with my 2X10 because of ghost shifting. Either way I think I will need to have a wheelset built up with the IGH on the rear. Since the standard Kona Unit wheelsets are the weakest link, I would probably replace the front as well.

    I like the thought of saving $225 and I don't mind the weight difference. Heck I plan to loose another 20 lbs. by increasing my biking so 2 lbs. on the bike is chump change. My Kona Unit is for rougher terrain than my Fargo. The Kona hardtail has a front suspension fork, thudbuster and 29" X 2.5" tires to soften the ride. Durability trumps speed, but at the same time I don't want a boat anchor slowing me down.

    I do have another question concerning the NuVinci 360. I read somewhere there are two cables. Can they run together on one set of standard cable hooks (see below)? Are there any other issues I should be aware of starting with a single speed?

    Last edited by KanzaKrūzer; 09-07-2011 at 11:44 AM. Reason: larger photo
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  18. #43
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    You and I are in the same conundrum.
    I went so far as purchasing the Alfine 11, shifter, cog, parts kit and spokes, but put the brakes on the wheelbuild (just in time) when I started reading about trail failures on the 11.

    I want a hub that I can count on to ride in all conditions, all terrain, for years to come.

    The Rohloff is still on my "wish" list, but for the price difference I could get 3+ Nuvincis, and god knows how long it would take me to burn through 3 N360's.

    Anyway, I've made the decision to go with a N360. The alleged slugishness in low range is a minor concern, but a concern nonetheless.
    To me, it is worth the minor tradeoff of 2 pounds and some loss of efficiency in the lowest gear range to get something that actually has the manufacturer's green light for offroad use, and is designed to take the torque from motorized (stokemonkey) systems.

    If I was not going to be doing any technical terrain, I'd probably opt to stick with the Alfine.
    Another part of this (for me) is to evaluate the Nuvinci firsthand. I've owned two Alfine 8s and a Nexus (never had any trouble with those, but it was 99% on road commuting duty), and am curious about the Nuvinci.

    Quote Originally Posted by KanzaKrūzer View Post
    While I keep both tires on the ground, I do like to stand up and crank up the steep hills. I can't do that with my 2X10 because of ghost shifting. Either way I think I will need to have a wheelset built up with the IGH on the rear. Since the standard Kona Unit wheelsets are the weakest link, I would probably replace the front as well.

    I like the thought of saving $225 and I don't mind the weight difference. Heck I plan to loose another 20 lbs. by increasing my biking so 2 lbs. on the bike is chump change. My Kona Unit is for rougher terrain than my Fargo. It has front suspension fork, thudbuster and 29" X 2.5" tires to soften the ride. Durability trumps speed, but at the same time I don't want a boat anchor slowing me down.

    I do have another question concerning the NuVinci 360. I read somewhere there are two cables. Can they run together on one set of standard cable hooks (see below)? Are there any other issues I should be aware of starting with a single speed?


  19. #44
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    My take is the drag is not that bad for gravel grinding and isn't an issue, but in typical MTBr fashion, I'll point out that YMMV. The weight I really don't think you'll notice at all unless you're jumping the bike. Standing and mashing is zero problem.

    In fact, my dad now uses my Karate Monkey every week for a 20-mile ride on greenways, and gravel bridle roads through Umstead State Park. There are some reasonably steep hills and a combination of fine, smooth gravel and large, coarse gravel. He likes to stand and mash up certain hills and so far loves doing it with the NuVinci. His derailleur was crap on his 26" mountain bike he normally used, which frustrated him every other ride at a minimum, so he really appreciates there being no clunk during shifts, no popping out of gear when hammering, and no adjustment required pre-ride (or during the ride).

    As for the cable routing, yes there are two cables from the shifter, which they recommend you run in a full-length housing. You can run a split housing if you have cable stops instead of cable guides, but you'll need two of them, obviously. The other options are to use zip-ties or some of stick-on cable guides which work really well (they probably have them in white to blend in with the frame a bit more, but I've only seen pictures of black ones). I can't think of any other things you'd need to make it work for you, as it will have the no-turn washers to fit whatever dropout angle you need them to. Of course you'll have a grip-shifter, so you'll need appropriate grips (or to just cut yours down).
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  20. #45
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    I'm going to see if my local "transportation and utility" bike shop has any bikes with the N360 just to get a sense of what to expect.

    I'd say my use will be split between:
    - urban commute, grocery run, basic transportation 60%
    - Desert singletrack (Fruita/Grand Junction/Moab) 20%
    - gravel grinding / bikepacking / mixed w/ singletrack 20%

    I'm sure the Alfine could survive for a while in these conditions, but would anyone here be willing to wager real money on which hub would be more serviceable in 5 years?
    I'm not.
    That's why the Nuvinci gets the nod for my needs Of the two it seems to be simpler and more robust.

    Quote Originally Posted by aTomOfAllTrades View Post
    My take is the drag is not that bad for gravel grinding and isn't an issue, but in typical MTBr fashion, I'll point out that YMMV. The weight I really don't think you'll notice at all unless you're jumping the bike. Standing and mashing is zero problem.

    In fact, my dad now uses my Karate Monkey every week for a 20-mile ride on greenways, and gravel bridle roads through Umstead State Park. There are some reasonably steep hills and a combination of fine, smooth gravel and large, coarse gravel. He likes to stand and mash up certain hills and so far loves doing it with the NuVinci. His derailleur was crap on his 26" mountain bike he normally used, which frustrated him every other ride at a minimum, so he really appreciates there being no clunk during shifts, no popping out of gear when hammering, and no adjustment required pre-ride (or during the ride).

    As for the cable routing, yes there are two cables from the shifter, which they recommend you run in a full-length housing. You can run a split housing if you have cable stops instead of cable guides, but you'll need two of them, obviously. The other options are to use zip-ties or some of stick-on cable guides which work really well (they probably have them in white to blend in with the frame a bit more, but I've only seen pictures of black ones). I can't think of any other things you'd need to make it work for you, as it will have the no-turn washers to fit whatever dropout angle you need them to. Of course you'll have a grip-shifter, so you'll need appropriate grips (or to just cut yours down).

  21. #46
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    Okay, so I am getting a couple quotes for building up the wheelset. Do you know if my existing splined cog is compatible with the NuVinci 360 and if 20t is within spec?

    Homebrewed Components Stainless Standard Cog
    # of teeth: 20t
    style: 5 spoke
    chain size: 3/32" (8/9/10 speed compatible)
    Splined or Threaded?: Splined

    Also, are tubless tires more prone to problems? If I want a battle tank for a bike, should I just stick with my exisiting tube setup? I may want to switch between Racing Ralphs and Big Apples. If I opt for a tube setup now, can I switch at some later date. I just don't know much about tubless.
    Last edited by KanzaKrūzer; 09-09-2011 at 06:25 AM.
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    The N360 uses a snap-ring to hold the cog on a standard splined freehub body. I will tell you that a Surly cog fits just about perfectly so the snap-ring is very tight and the cog does not move. I tried a cheap cog on there at first that's just stamped steel and it was too thin and would require a spacer to keep it from sliding on the splines side-to-side. The HBC cog is definitely wide enough, however I don't know how wide the base is, so I can't say if it's actually too wide or not.

    The other concern is offset. The Surly cog is offset so you can flip it and change chainline by ~2.5mm. However, with mine flipped so the chain is closest to the hub, I got a little bit of a zing from the chain every now and then on the metal clip that attaches to the end of one of the shift cables using an 1/8" chain. Using the correct chain (any standard 8-speed 3/32") it would clear just fine. Depending on what kind of HBC cog you have and the offset, it may interfere either with the hub or the shifter. I'll try to get some pictures to better show what I'm talking about.


    As for the more general post-apocolyptic war bike technology question: IMO, yes, go tubeless. If you have a tire and rim that will work tubeless with Stan's, then it really is not that difficult to set up once (even if it is, it's once, then you're done). At that point, you have zero concern about pinch flats = huge, so you can run the pressures you want without worry or compromise. In addition, if you get a pinhole leak in a tube, it's either always going to be there or you take it out and patch it. Most holes can be plugged in a tubeless setup by rotating the tire and letting the sealant setup in the hole. So most of the time if you get a leak or something on the trail, you can fix it without even taking the wheel off.

    And what's the worst-case scenario: you do something to flat it that the sealant can't plug up, so you just pop a tube in it. What would happen if you popped a tube? You would take it out, then pop another tube in it.

    So IMO, there's no reason not to at least start with a tubeless setup and carry a spare tube (which I at least do regardless of tire setup) anyways.
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by aTomOfAllTrades View Post
    The N360 uses a snap-ring to hold the cog on a standard splined freehub body. I will tell you that a Surly cog fits just about perfectly so the snap-ring is very tight and the cog does not move. I tried a cheap cog on there at first that's just stamped steel and it was too thin and would require a spacer to keep it from sliding on the splines side-to-side. The HBC cog is definitely wide enough, however I don't know how wide the base is, so I can't say if it's actually too wide or not.

    The other concern is offset. The Surly cog is offset so you can flip it and change chainline by ~2.5mm. However, with mine flipped so the chain is closest to the hub, I got a little bit of a zing from the chain every now and then on the metal clip that attaches to the end of one of the shift cables using an 1/8" chain. Using the correct chain (any standard 8-speed 3/32") it would clear just fine. Depending on what kind of HBC cog you have and the offset, it may interfere either with the hub or the shifter. I'll try to get some pictures to better show what I'm talking about.


    As for the more general post-apocolyptic war bike technology question: IMO, yes, go tubeless. If you have a tire and rim that will work tubeless with Stan's, then it really is not that difficult to set up once (even if it is, it's once, then you're done). At that point, you have zero concern about pinch flats = huge, so you can run the pressures you want without worry or compromise. In addition, if you get a pinhole leak in a tube, it's either always going to be there or you take it out and patch it. Most holes can be plugged in a tubeless setup by rotating the tire and letting the sealant setup in the hole. So most of the time if you get a leak or something on the trail, you can fix it without even taking the wheel off.

    And what's the worst-case scenario: you do something to flat it that the sealant can't plug up, so you just pop a tube in it. What would happen if you popped a tube? You would take it out, then pop another tube in it.

    So IMO, there's no reason not to at least start with a tubeless setup and carry a spare tube (which I at least do regardless of tire setup) anyways.
    Tom,

    The minimum 1.8:1 specs on the NuVinci web site suggest that there are only two options with a 32 chain ring, either 32:16 or 32:17. Does that mean I can't use my 18t or 20t cogs? What harm would a 32:20 setup cause or does it just make the lower ratios useless? Does it void the warranty? Do you switch out cogs for different locations? I thought having 16t, 18t, and 20t cogs to swap between would give me more options.

    Could I get close to one of my 2 chain rings on my Salsa Fargo 2X10 if I added the NuVinci 360 to my Kona Unit? Is there an easy way to calculate what rear sprockets would net a similar range?

    Kona Unit
    NuVinci N360
    180 cranks
    32 Chainring
    20t or 18t or 16t cog?

    Salsa Fargo
    2X10
    175 cranks
    28-42 Chainring
    12-36t cassette = cogs 12,13,15,17,19,22,25,28,32,36
    Last edited by KanzaKrūzer; 09-12-2011 at 02:27 PM.
    KanzaKrūzer
    Salsa Warbird | Kona Unit

  24. #49
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    The N360 has a low ratio limit of 0.5 and high of 1.8, so if you have an 18 in the back that is essentially equivalent to a 9-32T cassette. A 22 would yield an 11-40T. That's a pretty easy way to look at it.

    The 1.8:1 limit on chainring:cog ratio is much like the Alfine, a general rule of thumb. Obviously if you have super long crank arms or 26" wheels or weigh 300 lbs, the amount of torque you can put on the hub changes significantly, so just because 1.8:1 is a "limit" doesn't mean it doesn't work if you go lower. I've run a 28:18 (or 1.56:1) for a while and had no issues, but you start to notice the extra drag in the lowest gear, as discussed to death already. IMO, the lower ratio will not damage the hub, it will just make it less efficient. I challenge anyone with a NuVinci hub to actually break the hub. Ever.

    For your gearing range, you won't quite be able to match the 2x10, but you can get most of it. You'll just need to figure out which gears you want to keep. For example, taking the crank length into account with the 16T cog you can a high gear equivalent to 42/12, but your lowest gear would be equivalent to ~28/29, so you'd be losing the 28/32 and 28/36 low gears. With the 18T cog you'd have coverage from ~28/32 to 42/13.5, so you'd really just be missing the one lowest and one highest gear. The 20T would give you exactly the same low gear at 28/36, but high would be 42/15, so you'd lose your two highest gears. So you just need to figure out which of those gears you use the least and pick your cog accordingly.

    Personally, since it is used for commuting and gravel grinding for me (higher speed), I prefer the higher end of the range because the hub feels a little better and it allows for higher speed, then if it really gets that steep I always have the option to stand and mash. Now mine has a 34/18 on it as a result. As mentioned before though I ran 32/18 for very long time and 28/18 for a while as well, so it will work, it's just not "recommended," for what it's worth.
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by aTomOfAllTrades View Post
    The N360 has a low ratio limit of 0.5 and high of 1.8, so if you have an 18 in the back that is essentially equivalent to a 9-32T cassette. A 22 would yield an 11-40T. That's a pretty easy way to look at it.

    The 1.8:1 limit on chainring:cog ratio is much like the Alfine, a general rule of thumb. Obviously if you have super long crank arms or 26" wheels or weigh 300 lbs, the amount of torque you can put on the hub changes significantly, so just because 1.8:1 is a "limit" doesn't mean it doesn't work if you go lower. I've run a 28:18 (or 1.56:1) for a while and had no issues, but you start to notice the extra drag in the lowest gear, as discussed to death already. IMO, the lower ratio will not damage the hub, it will just make it less efficient. I challenge anyone with a NuVinci hub to actually break the hub. Ever.

    For your gearing range, you won't quite be able to match the 2x10, but you can get most of it. You'll just need to figure out which gears you want to keep. For example, taking the crank length into account with the 16T cog you can a high gear equivalent to 42/12, but your lowest gear would be equivalent to ~28/29, so you'd be losing the 28/32 and 28/36 low gears. With the 18T cog you'd have coverage from ~28/32 to 42/13.5, so you'd really just be missing the one lowest and one highest gear. The 20T would give you exactly the same low gear at 28/36, but high would be 42/15, so you'd lose your two highest gears. So you just need to figure out which of those gears you use the least and pick your cog accordingly.

    Personally, since it is used for commuting and gravel grinding for me (higher speed), I prefer the higher end of the range because the hub feels a little better and it allows for higher speed, then if it really gets that steep I always have the option to stand and mash. Now mine has a 34/18 on it as a result. As mentioned before though I ran 32/18 for very long time and 28/18 for a while as well, so it will work, it's just not "recommended," for what it's worth.
    Tom,

    Thanks for the explanation. It helped me better understand how to compare the NuVinci 360 to a traditional cassette. I am pretty close to ordering a wheelset with the NuVinci and may just start with one of my existing cogs. If it is pretty easy to swap out cogs, I may order a 16t so I can try out all three (16t, 18t, 20t) depending on different types of riding.
    KanzaKrūzer
    Salsa Warbird | Kona Unit

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