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  1. #1
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    Numpty Rohloff Q's

    Hi

    Im curious about Hoff'ing
    (I live in the UK - I know all about mud)

    My questions are as follows:

    1) I have an XTR drivetrain
    I know a Rohloff is a fair lump but what exactly is the weight differential as Im ditching rings/mechs etc etc?

    2) I rarely use 'double granny' but when I do Im grateful for the ratio
    How does a Hoff compare to a 22 front with 34 rear set up?

    3) Are all Rohloffs the same?
    Is a '14 speed' sold with a hybrid/commuter the same as the rig sold with a hardcore MTB or not?

    4) If the above is different can I change the ratios from a commuter to suit a MTB?
    (Assuming I can switch it to disc brakes which I think I can)

    Cheers fellas
    The above would help

    YB
    Last edited by YorksBungholio; 05-26-2008 at 03:37 PM.

  2. #2
    ups and downs
    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
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    A Rohloff disc drivetrain is likely 600-650gms more than an XTR disc drivetrain.

    You can get to 22/34 equivalent low gearing which would also give a max high gear equivalent of 42/12. You'd use a 38T front ring and a 16T rear cog on the Rohloff.
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  3. #3
    On MTBR hiatus :(
    Reputation: Speedub.Nate's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by YorksBungholio
    Hi

    Im curious about Hoff'ing
    (I live in the UK - I know all about mud)

    My questions are as follows:

    1) I have an XTR drivetrain
    I know a Rohloff is a fair lump but what exactly is the weight differential as Im ditching rings/mechs etc etc?

    2) I rarely use 'double granny' but when I do Im grateful for the ratio
    How does a Hoff compare to a 22 front with 34 rear set up?

    3) Are all Rohloffs the same?
    Is a '14 speed' sold with a hybrid/commuter the same as the rig sold with a hardcore MTB or not?

    4) If the above is different can I change the ratios from a commuter to suit a MTB?
    (Assuming I can switch it to disc brakes which I think I can)

    Cheers fellas
    The above would help

    YB
    Here's a weight worksheet you can use to figure out more precise Speedhub weights based on the options you choose. Use http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php for comparable XTR component weights.

    <a href="http://www.booboodog.net/images/speedhub-weight-worksheet.gif"><img src="http://www.booboodog.net/images/speedhub-weight-worksheet-s.gif" border=1></a>

    They're all the same guts & shell. The physical differences are the disc brake option (which can be changed down the road) and the axle type. There used to be a tandem-specific version with oversized spoke holes, but that's been done away with and now all hubs come with slightly enlarged holes.

    Swapping between bikes is easy and modifying gearing is as easy as swapping chainrings.
    speedub.nate
    ∑ MTBR Hiatus UFN ∑

  4. #4
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    OK - So which cog and ring?

    Hello,

    I know there is a bit personal difference - strength, type of riding, location etc.; however, what is the best (in general) cog/ring combo for trails that include long, steep climbs?

    I've had my Rohloff for 4 years, and I've been riding some trails lately that seem impossible steep with my current ring and cog (17/42). I had the original 15/16-38t set up a

    Have I geared myself out of the really steep climbs with the 17/42 set up? If so, I still have
    the 15t cog - should I simply look for a 38t for the front? What would the 38 with the 17 (that I have currently) produce? I've seen the comparison charts for the Speed Hub posted previously, but I'm not sure I understand enough about gearing to make them useful


    Stephen

    Stephen

  5. #5
    It's about showing up.
    Reputation: Berkeley Mike's Avatar
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    I asked this back in April


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