Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 26
  1. #1
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76

    Nexus 3 speed 29er

    I've been collecting parts for this build for a while but it's finally coming together. Here's the parts list.

    Karate Monkey frame set
    Shimano Nexus 3 speed disc hub & XT hub laced to DT Swiss rims
    King BB, RaceFace Atlas cranks, BB7 brakes, XTR levers, RaceFace bars and stem, Woodman headset, Thomson post.

    I'd like to use a thumb shifter but my research has come up with varying results. Has anyone been successful using a thumb shifter? Or any other shifter besides the grip shifter?
    Last edited by JeepDave; 01-11-2013 at 11:33 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    22
    I've got the nexus3 (sg-3d55) on my commuter and was considering changing my 26in steel hardtail with an alfine8 to the nexus3 to save some weight in the back wheel.

    Yet to commit to the switch mainly because of cost but I was planning to mount the shifter inboard of the brake lever so I can get the brake lever and grip in the right place (I'm not a fan of gripshifts period).

    The other alternative is to take an old bar end and cut it short and mount the grip shift on that facing toward you. I figure either of these would be fine on an mtb as your basically riding a singlespeed with a hill bailout gear and a flat road gear so not shifting regularly.

  3. #3
    jrm
    jrm is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jrm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    10,257

    thumb shifter = Japan only

    and the thing looks like some hello kitty accessory. All that's available from shimano in the US is the twister. @ least the last time i looked it was. I used a friction shifter.

  4. #4
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    How's the friction shifter working out?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    132
    For anyone considering the same sort of project who hasn't ordered parts yet, Sturmey-Archer offers a thumb shifter (and many other styles) for their three-speed disc hub.

  6. #6
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    I originally bought the SA hub but the I wasn't impressed but it. The main thing I noticed was the weight. It's quite a bit heavier than the Nexus. The thumb shifter was nice though. My frame shows up tomorrow and I ordered the rest of the parts so hopefully this weekend it'll be done.

  7. #7
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    My frame is here! Awaiting my cranks, headset and seat post. I could use what I've already got but I wanna build this right the first time.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    373

    shifter

    For years now I've been using 3 speed IGH (with a cassette on the outside).
    First Sachs 3x7 and then Sram dualdrive - both great hubs which have given me no issues.
    When I bought my bike 17 years ago I didnt like the gripshift as my previous MTB had XT push push rapidfire thumb shifters. I was told it couldnt be done but I found my Sachs 3x7 worked fine for many years with the Shimano 3 speed rapidfire. When the shifters wore out, me being a tightwad, put back on the gripshift. I then swapped out my Sachs hub for the Sram Dualdrive. My original 3 speed gripshift works the Dualdrive just fine so I'm confident the 3 speed Rapidfire would work fine (IMHO) as well. The Dualdrive is easier to set up as the clickbox on the axle has an indicator which I use to set the cable length to the middle gear and then I'm good to go.

  9. #9
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    Well it's almost together. The headset and post will be here tomorrow, then I need a chain, cables and housing. I've also figured out a way to cut an OURY lock on grip short and still retain both lock rings. Seems like its going to work.

  10. #10
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    here she is! I know I've got to trim the lines a bit.


  11. #11
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    I was able to swap out the twist shifter for an old friction shifter. So far so good

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    373

    Hmmmmmmm

    Very nice
    I was going to go green for my Ogre frame but seeing your KM in black has
    convinced me to do the same - I really like the look of it.
    Makes the Surly decal set stand out proud and that headset looks good too.
    Green with envy

  13. #13
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    3 days and 2 rides later I've switched the tires to some 2.2 Captain Controls. Its much better now. The shifter is working out and after some more tweaking should be fine. I do need to trim the bars down a bit though, 785's are HUGE.

  14. #14
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    I've been riding this thing every chance I get, though still not as much as I'd like. The hub is working great. I can stand of the pedals while climbing without any issues. I've had a recurring noise while pedaling and an occasional popping that sounds like a chain line issue. The chain line does look fine and its only occasionally. It could be hub engagement. The silent hub is really nice but if I can't get this thing to stop making these odd noises I may pick up another Woodman SS hub and lace up a new wheel.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    1
    Speaking of durability, what kind of riding do you do, where and how much do you weigh? I'm 21o lbs and tough on parts. Will the internal hold up?

  16. #16
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    I ride single track mostly, in the San Jose area and I'm 205lb. before riding gear. Hoping this bike will lower that number. I also just changed the rear to a 22t in an effort to climb better.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    373
    I've often wondered how a three speed IGH would go with a triple crankset

  18. #18
    rollin
    Reputation: sriracha's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    2,569
    Nice looking Surly! I have a Karate Monkey with the A8 hub.

    As for the 3-speed shifter, I took a risk and mounted a Sturmey Archer thumb shifter to a Shimano Nexus 3-speed hub...and it worked!:

    Shimano Nexus 3-speed + Sturmey Archer Thumb Shifter
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nexus 3 speed 29er-rampar3.jpg  

    Nexus 3 speed 29er-rampar4.jpg  


  19. #19
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    I'm riding this bike every week and have changed things around frequently. The bars and cranks have been constantly being messed with in an effort to shed some weight. The RaceFace Atlas cranks are sweet and super burly but over 700 grams. I've come across a pair of XTR 960 cranks and I've made them into single speed cranks. I've ordered a HBC ring from SPC and will have the cranks anodized. Next up is a pair of carbon bars. I'm after a wide bar in the 745mm range give or take, with at least 3/4" rise. Any suggestions?

    I'm also still having what seems like chain line issues. Any suggestions on that?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by JeepDave View Post
    I'm riding this bike every week and have changed things around frequently. The bars and cranks have been constantly being messed with in an effort to shed some weight. The RaceFace Atlas cranks are sweet and super burly but over 700 grams. I've come across a pair of XTR 960 cranks and I've made them into single speed cranks. I've ordered a HBC ring from SPC and will have the cranks anodized. Next up is a pair of carbon bars. I'm after a wide bar in the 745mm range give or take, with at least 3/4" rise. Any suggestions?

    I'm also still having what seems like chain line issues. Any suggestions on that?

    which way do you have the rear cog, is it dished toward the spokes or outward? Running a single ring at the front on a hollowtech II crankset I have mine dished outward and it works well, on other bikes I've used spacers between the chainring and crank for 1-3mm adjustments. I've only ever used the cog dished toward the spokes on a bike using an alfine crankset.

  21. #21
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    It's facing outward. It has been better lately with the new M960 cranks. Though I just got a whole mess of parts for a single speed wheel build as well as a few other things. I poked up some Halo hubs, an XCS rear and XCD front, WTB I23 rims, ceramic coated HBC ring for the above cranks, a Rennen cog and a Phil Wood seat collar.

    I also headed to a local park for some climbing and descending. My legs need some work!

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    22
    Quote Originally Posted by JeepDave View Post
    It's facing outward. It has been better lately with the new M960 cranks. Though I just got a whole mess of parts for a single speed wheel build as well as a few other things. I poked up some Halo hubs, an XCS rear and XCD front, WTB I23 rims, ceramic coated HBC ring for the above cranks, a Rennen cog and a Phil Wood seat collar.

    I also headed to a local park for some climbing and descending. My legs need some work!

    Appears you used to single speeding? If so are you noticing the extra weight of the hub in the rear? Going from single speed to an alfine8 has been very noticable.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    5
    Hello JeepDave, you did an excellent job with your build up. I was wondering if you had a total weight & round $# ?

    Thanks!

  24. #24
    jrm
    jrm is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jrm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    10,257
    I too had a issue with chainline with my N3 hub. i e3nded up finding a flat cog after busting two chains using the OE dished hub. So what kind of gear inches do you have on your set up? i was using a sunrace friction shifter on mine. i used a sharpie to mark the shift points. it was pretty ghetto but it worked. Bike looks great. Any long term observations?

  25. #25
    Industry Vet
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by jrm View Post
    I too had a issue with chainline with my N3 hub. i e3nded up finding a flat cog after busting two chains using the OE dished hub. So what kind of gear inches do you have on your set up? i was using a sunrace friction shifter on mine. i used a sharpie to mark the shift points. it was pretty ghetto but it worked. Bike looks great. Any long term observations?
    Well my issue is the cog needs to be closer to the dropout. I thought modding one but haven't yet. I don't like the engagement of this hub. I read somewhere it was at least as good as XT hubs but would disagree strongly. I have just built a SS wheel set using some Halo hubs and WTB i23 rims. It's dropped the weight of the bike from 27+ to 25.3lbs. I've also just ordered some Raceface carbon bars to help with hand fatigue.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •