Modify Surly TuggNut for Alfine non-turn washers?
If I "connected" the two 10mm holes on my Surly Tuggnut (by grinding the area between the two holes, so it's just one big oblong oval), would it work with the non-turn washers, if I only used the front "hole" of the tuggnut?
The rear hole of the TuggNut seems to be there so you won't have too much Tugg hanging off the end of your frame, if you want to run the axle further rearward.
If I lost the "dual hole" function of the Tuggs, and made it an oblong, 10mm channel, would it still function as a chain tugg? Would it retain it's ability to keep the axle from sliding forward, and would it also provide the proper hold for the Alfine non-turn washers?
'10 Rocky Mountain Metropolis (rigid 2x10)
'10 SURLY 1x1 (rigid SS)
'13 SURLY Ogre (rigid SS)
'13 SURLY Troll (rigid 2x10)
Last edited by Gritter; 11-21-2013 at 12:47 AM.
I use redline tensioners on mine, I drilled out the front hole the same size as the zero turn washer, the tab on the washer fits perfectly in the gap between the front holes, works perfect, aluminum is easy to drill and only cost $14 bucks.
Just use the tugnut on the drive side without the non-turn washer. Keep the non-turn on the other side. Works good, no problems on my Alfine8.
With bolt on IGH you don't need to use any tugnuts at all. Centering the wheel and getting good chain tension is pretty easy and with the bolt on axle the hub stays in place without any problem.
My results have varied and I had to use a Tugnut with my Alfine. What I did was slide the tugnut on the axle before sliding the wheel into the drops. You may have to spread the stays a little. see this threads for the pics;
Originally Posted by vikb
Chaintug for IGH?
“Let me 'splain. No, there is too much. Let me sum up.”
I once *did* add some material to a Tuggnut and then dremel'd it out. Yeah it was cool. What wasn't cool was how I bent both of the adjusting bolts, rendering them almost useless (I had to use a pliers to turn the bolt).