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  1. #1
    Tires
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    Modify Surly TuggNut for Alfine non-turn washers?

    If I "connected" the two 10mm holes on my Surly Tuggnut (by grinding the area between the two holes, so it's just one big oblong oval), would it work with the non-turn washers, if I only used the front "hole" of the tuggnut?

    The rear hole of the TuggNut seems to be there so you won't have too much Tugg hanging off the end of your frame, if you want to run the axle further rearward.

    If I lost the "dual hole" function of the Tuggs, and made it an oblong, 10mm channel, would it still function as a chain tugg? Would it retain it's ability to keep the axle from sliding forward, and would it also provide the proper hold for the Alfine non-turn washers?
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  2. #2
    Tires
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    Last edited by Gritter; 11-21-2013 at 12:47 AM.

  3. #3
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    I use redline tensioners on mine, I drilled out the front hole the same size as the zero turn washer, the tab on the washer fits perfectly in the gap between the front holes, works perfect, aluminum is easy to drill and only cost $14 bucks.

  4. #4
    saddlemeat
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    Just use the tugnut on the drive side without the non-turn washer. Keep the non-turn on the other side. Works good, no problems on my Alfine8.
    I ride with the best people.




  5. #5
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    With bolt on IGH you don't need to use any tugnuts at all. Centering the wheel and getting good chain tension is pretty easy and with the bolt on axle the hub stays in place without any problem.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  6. #6
    Recreational Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    With bolt on IGH you don't need to use any tugnuts at all. Centering the wheel and getting good chain tension is pretty easy and with the bolt on axle the hub stays in place without any problem.
    My results have varied and I had to use a Tugnut with my Alfine. What I did was slide the tugnut on the axle before sliding the wheel into the drops. You may have to spread the stays a little. see this threads for the pics;
    Chaintug for IGH?
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  7. #7
    will rant for food
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    I once *did* add some material to a Tuggnut and then dremel'd it out. Yeah it was cool. What wasn't cool was how I bent both of the adjusting bolts, rendering them almost useless (I had to use a pliers to turn the bolt).
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    I once *did* add some material to a Tuggnut and then dremel'd it out. Yeah it was cool. What wasn't cool was how I bent both of the adjusting bolts, rendering them almost useless (I had to use a pliers to turn the bolt).
    I know it is generally frowned upon to bring up old threads, but this thread and the thread linked above are directly related to my question. I've tried PMing a few people but everyone is no longer active on the site...

    Has anyone tried modifying their Tugnutt as mentioned in this or the linked thread? I will be picking up a tuggnut today for my Alfine 8 Surly Ogre and will be sorting out the issue of retaining (with mods) or eliminating the drive-side non-turn washer. Filing the tuggnut so the tab on the washer drops in or adding material to the hole (gas welding) and reshaping to match a non-turn washer seem like good approaches.

    Thanks!
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  9. #9
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    Zanq,

    I would echo what Vikb posted several years ago: you don't need a tensioner for a nutted IGH. That said, you can easily, albeit slowly, file an appropriate slot in the tugnut/tensioner to fit the anti-turn bit...Lowes/Home Depot/any number of area supply companies (Grainger, McMaster, et al) will carry needle files from the General brand that will work fine. In most cases, the Alfine axles have plenty of length to accommodate another 3-4mm.

  10. #10
    _CJ
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    I've modified chain tugs to work with the Alfine non-turn washers, and it works fine.

    An easier route is to use Box Components tensioners. If you're able to use the hole closest to the rear, the non-turn drops right in. No modifications required. They're also thinner than most tensioners, giving the nuts more purchase on the threads. I've been using hex nuts with nylon locking inserts lately, and they seem to hold on better.

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