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  1. #1
    trail hunter
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    looking at IGH but have ?'s

    Im building up and old fisher frame for touring and am considering an IGH. My main concern is chain tensioning. Do I have to have a tensioning device or is that done by the hub?

  2. #2
    Frt Range, CO
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    If the dropouts are vertical and you don't have a EBB, then you'll need a tensioner. If your frame has EBB, horizontial dropouts or sliders, then you don't need a tensioner.

  3. #3
    trail hunter
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    ok,

    do magic gear rations work with igh?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhunter
    do magic gear rations work with igh?
    Yup!

    But ... what are you going to do about chain stretch?
    Last edited by Sometimes; 10-22-2009 at 08:10 PM.

  5. #5
    trail hunter
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    well,

    would a half limk chain work? Or i could just remove links as necessary.

  6. #6
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    I'm new to SS'ing/IGH, having just more than a month SS'ing before giving it up & switching to IGH. IGH was always my aim but thought I'd give SS'ing a shot.

    Anyvey ... from my very limited experience & from what I remember reading, a half link equals 1/2" & will allow the axle to move forward/backward 1/4". That's seems like a lot of chain stretch to me. In other words, that seems to be too much to account for chain stretch.

    I don't know the recommended limit on chain sag/deflection but on my Rohloff it's a maximum of 10mm with not much force. I've seen pics on this site of SS's with quite a bit of sag in their chains. So perhaps that's acceptable. Seems like an invitation for chain skip & perhaps accelerated wear to me but what do I know, I'm new to all this.

    I think a tensioner would be the best solution. They're quite compact & don't (apparently) have to be mounted in the traditional rear derailleur position as I've seen pics of at least one mounted on the chainstay, just behind the chainring, which would provide a bit more protection & also keep the bike looking 'clean'.

    Good luck.

  7. #7
    lives to ride
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    Your other option is a Forward Components or Trickstuff Exzentriker EBB. The catch is that you need the right cranks to get it to work.

    It's worth considering. While magic gear is my preference to a tensioner (for aesthetics), once you've been riding for a while the lack of ability to adjust the chain tension will probably annoy you.

  8. #8
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    jasevr4's post jogged my memory. What can I write, I'm getting senile :-).

    There's also an eccentric hub, White Brothers (?), that offers some adjustment.

  9. #9
    trail hunter
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    dont think you can use and eccentric hub and an IGH

    I am trying the clean look. I refuse to use a chain tensioner, might as well have a rear der. I usually ride SS but have an old gary fisher marlin in perfect condition lying around. I want to build it up as a touring bike with either 700c or 650b wheels (pref. 700c) and an IGH for touring. I thought about the trickstuff and forward components ebbs but they are pricey. Would rather go with a different bike than that or a chain tensioner.

  10. #10
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    bhunter - my personal preference then is to go an EBB. While it's not going to be quick release and super easy to change a flat, at least you don't have to worry about tensioning the chain after taking the wheel off...

  11. #11
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    FWIW, my Rohloff is QR and I'm using an EBB.

  12. #12
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    Ahh yep, my bad. My brain is in Alfine mode...

  13. #13
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    Read Sheldon Brown's article on "Fixed Gear Conversions" for some additional ideas on adjusting chain tension without adding a tensioner.

    Some of his ideas:

    1. One tooth is equal to 1/8" of adjustment so you could just go to a one tooth larger chainring/cog to make a 1/8" adjustment in chain tension. That would give you 1/8" with tooth adjustment, 1/4" with a half-link & 1/2" with a full link which should take care of any chain tensioning you might need to do.

    2. Another idea is elongate the dropout by filing/grinding away some of the metal. I don't like that idea.

    3. And another idea is to cut the axle short so that the QR skewer 'floats' freely in the dropout providing a small range of adjustment. That doesn't sound like a bad idea but I'd definitely only use a steel skewer with an enclosed cam. Shimano's are my favorite. Especially true now that I've read about QR's & disc brakes.

    Good luck.

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