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  1. #351
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    Whoa! I had no idea that fork had that kind of tire clearance. One last question, how is the durability / how long have you been running the fork? I think my gf will be getting a new fork soon... much appreciated!

  2. #352
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    Gryphon

    I also posted this in the "29er Rigid" pic thread. Enjoy!

    This has been my daily commuter for 2 months now, but I've done the quick switch to offroad mode (remove fenders, rack and 50mm slicks, etc). I've really liked the Nuvinci on the road. Time to give it a proper test.
    Maiden trail ride is tomorrow.

    <Edit> Post ride report. Excellent offroad capabilities! Great climber, fun handling. I look forward to more. I replaced the Brooks B-17N with a 143mm Specialized Phenom Gel - MUCH better!!!!!!!!!!!!!







    The clearance with 2.4 Ardents. Not bad.



    Last edited by canyoneagle; 04-11-2012 at 02:56 PM.

  3. #353
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    Love the bikes, mine is a single speed 18t 29er. Do I need a new spokes to build a rear wheel with alfine8 using my existing wheel..Advice is much appreciated....

  4. #354
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    Love the bikes, mine is a single speed 18t 29er. Do I need a new spokes to build a rear wheel with alfine8 using my existing wheel..Advice is much appreciated....
    Most probably yes, unless your current hub is the same size as the Alfine 8, and even if it is, a new wheel build can always benefit from a new set of spokes.

  5. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    Love the bikes, mine is a single speed 18t 29er. Do I need a new spokes to build a rear wheel with alfine8 using my existing wheel..Advice is much appreciated....
    It is generally a good idea to use new spokes, unless the old wheel is relatively new.
    The Alfine has a much larger flange than most regular hubs, so (if the existing spokes are newish) they could be cut to the appropriate length. This also assumes that the spokes, if butted, have enough space on the end to allow the new threads to be cut without hitting the shoulder of the butted section.
    Add to these considerations that most bike shops have forgotten the art of spoke cutting (fairly easy to do with a Phil Wood machine and skilled user), so they charge for the inconvenience - sometimes more than the cost of new spokes.

    Yeah, go with new spokes.

    If you are new to wheel building, it would be best to have a reputable shop assist you with determining the spoke length, given your hub specs, rim, and desired cross patern (you can go 3x with an Alfine and 29er rim).

  6. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by canyoneagle View Post
    It is generally a good idea to use new spokes, unless the old wheel is relatively new.
    The Alfine has a much larger flange than most regular hubs, so (if the existing spokes are newish) they could be cut to the appropriate length. This also assumes that the spokes, if butted, have enough space on the end to allow the new threads to be cut without hitting the shoulder of the butted section.
    Add to these considerations that most bike shops have forgotten the art of spoke cutting (fairly easy to do with a Phil Wood machine and skilled user), so they charge for the inconvenience - sometimes more than the cost of new spokes.

    Yeah, go with new spokes.

    If you are new to wheel building, it would be best to have a reputable shop assist you with determining the spoke length, given your hub specs, rim, and desired cross patern (you can go 3x with an Alfine and 29er rim).
    The existing wheels are new, what spoke size should i get to match with a 29er rim and 3x pattern? Thanks again...

  7. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by EFMax View Post
    Most probably yes, unless your current hub is the same size as the Alfine 8, and even if it is, a new wheel build can always benefit from a new set of spokes.
    Thanks, now i need to figure out what size of spokes should i get for alfine8 hub and 29er rim..

  8. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by larryarroyo View Post
    The existing wheels are new, what spoke size should i get to match with a 29er rim and 3x pattern? Thanks again...
    Awesome!

    Here's what you'll need:

    Hub specs: Shimano Alfine SG-S500 (8-spd) 135mm Rear hub dimensions | Freespoke | Freespoke
    Rim ERD: While all "29er" rims will have the same bead diameter (622), they will vary in "ERD", which relates to the diameter where the nipples will sit. Google your rim name + ERD and see what comes up. This is also (sometimes) on the rim label. Your rim might be listed here
    Number of spokes: 32 or 36 - MAKE SURE YOUR RIM AND HUB HAVE THE SAME NUMBER OF HOLES
    Cross pattern: 3x
    Nipple length: Unless you are using something unusual, this will probably be 12mm

    There are a number of online spoke calculators - I always use 2 or 3 and average the results if they are close. The ones I use:
    Freespoke - only if your rim and hub are listed (select them in the tabs)
    Welcome - select "anonymous usage"
    Spoke Length Calculator

    If you will be re-cutting the existing spokes, measure them to the base of the threads and ensure that this is at least as long as your calculated spoke length.

    If you go this route, you will need to find a shop that cuts spokes (not all do), so I highly recommend that you have them verify your calculation. If you get it wrong, your build will not happen.
    Ask the shop what they charge. If it is more than 30-40 cents per spoke, you may as well buy new ones.

    Best of luck to you!!!!! I look forward to seeing your project come together.

  9. #359
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    Man, that is really helpful. Good on ya!

  10. #360
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    Yes, really helpful. Thanks again...

  11. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnybags View Post
    Man, that is really helpful. Good on ya!
    Glad to help!
    By no means do I consider myself an expert - I'm a hobbyist when it comes to building wheels.
    Rep is certainly appreciated if you've found it helpful, but it was not my intent to fish rep.

  12. #362
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    Nice writeup! When I built my alfine wheel, I bought a bag of 50 spokes that cost way too much. I couldn't find them online any cheaper. Later someone sent me this link:

    DAN'S COMP - Bmx Bikes, Bmx Parts, Bmx Clothing, Bmx Shoes and Bmx Accessories!

    They sell spokes individually and the price is great. Make sure you order a couple of extra ones JUST IN CASE. I like the double butted ones. If you want, buy some colored nipples also to spice up the build.

    One other thing - the spoke length for left and right side will be different - but very close - on the calculator. You can buy one size for both sides. Just split the difference between left and right. I think its less than 2 mm and any slack that small can be taken up by the nipple. The taller the wheel, the less of a difference there will be (calculated).

  13. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corporal Punishment View Post
    Nice writeup! When I built my alfine wheel, I bought a bag of 50 spokes that cost way too much. I couldn't find them online any cheaper. Later someone sent me this link:

    DAN'S COMP - Bmx Bikes, Bmx Parts, Bmx Clothing, Bmx Shoes and Bmx Accessories!

    They sell spokes individually and the price is great. Make sure you order a couple of extra ones JUST IN CASE. I like the double butted ones. If you want, buy some colored nipples also to spice up the build.

    One other thing - the spoke length for left and right side will be different - but very close - on the calculator. You can buy one size for both sides. Just split the difference between left and right. I think its less than 2 mm and any slack that small can be taken up by the nipple. The taller the wheel, the less of a difference there will be (calculated).
    This is in line with what I found on my Alfine builds (I'[ve only built two). The flanges are pretty close to the same dimension from centerline. When I laced the wheels, I just left one side (the non-drive side with longer spokes) with 3-4 threads showing and snugged the drive side to the point where the threads just tucked into the nipple. That got me pretty close, and made the initial tensioning easier.

    I've typically bought my spokes/nipples from Universal cycles (DT Swiss and Wheelsmith).
    Rightly or wrongly (I blame Gerd Schraner ), I am in the habit of using spoke washers for my wheels, unless the dry fit is REALLY nice and the elbows are snug against the flange.

  14. #364
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    Coconino Rohloff

    This bike rides great. I am impressed with how well the Rohloff is working. Have to get used to shifting down under load, but otherwise the noise is less than I expected.
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  15. #365
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    I just got my 4th Alfine 11 back and it failed after ~3 hours of riding. Shimano either sent me back my original failed hub, or these hubs are only suitable for grandmothers riding bikes along paved rail trails. This hub's second gear is completely junk. Any pressure at all and it skips bad. This is just what my first Alfine 11 did, but it only started after 2 months of riding. #4 started after 3 hours of riding. I highly doubt I'm going to get my $900 back and right now I don't have a rideable bike. I'm ****ed.

  16. #366
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    The shop I bought it through has been handling everything. Plus why would I go to the UK boss?

    #1 - lost 2nd gear
    #2 - oil leak
    #3 - didn't run smoothly (shop returned it right away, I never road this one)
    #4 - lost second hear

    This hub sure does work great WHEN IT WORKs.
    I wish Rholoff would update their shifter to an XT style trigger shifter. I'd install that and be done with it.

    At this point, I'm looking at riding a singlespeed for a solid half of my season, by the time shimano/this bike shop gets me a bike that WORKS.

  17. #367
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    Man, that sounds awful. Have you tried going to the UK boss of shimano?

  18. #368
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    Oops sorry, your user name has fells in it and there are fells in the UK....anyhoo..... Have a search for the contact details of the shimano boss in your country and tell them what's happenned.....they hate bad press! And I've heard they are a really good hub.

    As far as Rohloff goes, Mittelmeyer (a small engineering firm in Germany) should be bringing a thumb shifter out in September - by which time the Rohloff you buy should be worn in ;-)

  19. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    The shop I bought it through has been handling everything. Plus why would I go to the UK boss?

    #1 - lost 2nd gear
    #2 - oil leak
    #3 - didn't run smoothly (shop returned it right away, I never road this one)
    #4 - lost second hear

    This hub sure does work great WHEN IT WORKs.
    I wish Rholoff would update their shifter to an XT style trigger shifter. I'd install that and be done with it.

    At this point, I'm looking at riding a singlespeed for a solid half of my season, by the time shimano/this bike shop gets me a bike that WORKS.
    Wow. That really sucks. I've been following your "adventure" here. That's just crazy.

    There haven't been too many complaints like yours for the 11. I beat the crap out of my 8. I know they're different. I'm wondering if you just haven't been the recipient of some really, really bad luck.

  20. #370
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    ...
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  21. #371
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    Hey Fellsbiker , you should start a new thread , lots of people would benefit from reading that and it's not obvious to find that kind of info in a "show your bike" thread.


    Shimano doesn't suggest to use Alfine ( 8 or 11) off road.
    They are found under "pavement" section.
    Alfine

    You can buy a Honda Civic and use it off road but I don't know how long it will last.
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  22. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by fokof View Post
    You can buy a Honda Civic and use it off road but I don't know how long it will last.
    That's not really a fair analogy. If a certain riding style - standing on the pedals, shifting under load, etc - are the real contributors to alfine hub failure then they should fail just as easily on the road as the trail. To me, it sounds like fellsbiker had bad luck with multiple manufacturing defects. Especially his #2 and #3 hubs. Its a fair question to ask whether shimano has any kind of quality control on their new 11 speeds, but in my own experience and looking around the IGH forum here, the 8 speed is pretty mature and holds up well as long as you shift "properly".

    I'm a year into my 8 speed ownership and I stand on the pedals all the time, huck 3' drops and generally ride the wheels off my bike on the trail but I'm also very conscious of how I shift. No problems yet [knock on wood! ]

    I hope fellsbiker chimes in about his riding/pedaling/shifting style. The general consensus here on the board is that shifting should be gentle and I think that advice bares out pretty well.

  23. #373
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    There is a delay shifting on a derailer vs an IGH. Plus a derailer shifts when you release the lever, an IGH shifts when you push the lever. So there was a leaning curve on my first hub. And it is possible that that learning curve is what messed up that hub. But these days, I'm a pro at shifting. My timing is perfect. I shift between pedal stroke perfectly. Yesterdays skip happened nowhere near a shift. I put it in second, went to pedal up a hill and it skipped violently, then went a little crazy for the next half hour. I do stand up and pedal constantly. I'm a mountain biker, that's how you mountain bike. So I would say without a doubt, #2, #3 and #4 were defective. #1... impossible to say for sure. If I did accidentally shift while pedaling, I would get off the pressure, I wouldn't just keep on grinding it out like some people do with derailers when they're trying to shift while climbing a hill.

    What is seems like to me, especially after googling it, is that the 2nd gear in the Alfine 11 is very weak. I think that they break easily, and I think that's what has happened to me twice. after I got home last night, I did a little street ride to figure things out and 2nd gear works until you put pressure on it, then it slips right out and grinds violently. And I suspect every grind makes things worse. Thats what happened with my first hub. I kept riding and it would skip hard when I was in second gear trying to climb. It got worse and worse until it got to the point where it wouldn't take ANY pressure at all in 2nd, and I had to go 1 to 3 every time i shifted.

    So all I can really afford to do now (and I mean that literally $$) hope they replace it again, and hope that #5 is a rare and unusually strong hub. #2 was nice and solid, it just leaked all it's oil.

  24. #374
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    Another simple solution here is that they use refurbished hubs was warranty replacements, and their refurbishment process is ****.

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    Firstly, as a disclaimer, I have a rohloff. Secondly, it seems you are jinxed in some unholy way. However you manage to get your hub replaced or refunded, could you sell it and go for something different, such as an 8 speed or stump up the extra cash for the Rohloff (i know they aren't perfect and there are occasional dodgy ones - but their customer service seems sh*t hot and they are fairly bulletproof)

  26. #376
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    I'm trying to buy a house this summer and my bank says I have to pay off my car at the same time otherwise they can't give me a loan. So no, I can't afford to get a rholloff right now. I'm very much not a fan of grip shifts also. And my rim is 36h so I'd need a whole new wheel. If shimano says no more free hubs, I guess I'll try to demand a free full XT 27 speed drive train, in exchange for my never-worked Alfine 11. Even that won't go over well. Its been a year and a few days so I don't know if my credit card company can do anything for me, but that might be my last option. Or my true last option, which is I might be riding a single speed full suspension bike this year. Which will suck more than you know. 35 mile urban rides will be a thing of the past. Riding TO the woods will also be a thing of the past. I am bummin.

  27. #377
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    Sucks. Good luck and keep us posted. Also, if they have anything to say about the failures, please post. Thanks.

  28. #378
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    I've asked my LBS each time, if Shimano has had any comments/suggestions/explanations/recommendations etc but they never have.

  29. #379
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    That is really crap.....I would think the warranty on the hubs should be for each one you have been given, rather than from the original unit. I've done a quick search and found a 2012 attendee list with the vice president of shimano america listed included his email address. A friend of mine used the same tactic when dealing with product or service issues here in the UK - find the boss and talk to them directly. Tell him how all this is affecting you not just the details of hub failures! Worth a try at least! http://www.bicycleconference.com/use...ndees-List.pdf

  30. #380
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    I have removed rim decals and fork decals to make the bike look less busy and more color coordinated. Enjoy it!
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  31. #381
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    sevencyclist, that's a rad bike. And you run more gnarly tires in the front - good choice.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  32. #382
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    ^^
    Nice!

  33. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    I'm trying to buy a house this summer and my bank says I have to pay off my car at the same time otherwise they can't give me a loan. So no, I can't afford to get a rholloff right now. I'm very much not a fan of grip shifts also. And my rim is 36h so I'd need a whole new wheel. If shimano says no more free hubs, I guess I'll try to demand a free full XT 27 speed drive train, in exchange for my never-worked Alfine 11. Even that won't go over well. Its been a year and a few days so I don't know if my credit card company can do anything for me, but that might be my last option. Or my true last option, which is I might be riding a single speed full suspension bike this year. Which will suck more than you know. 35 mile urban rides will be a thing of the past. Riding TO the woods will also be a thing of the past. I am bummin.
    As a big IGH fan I hate reading this stuff but it does seem you've been really unlucky with the A11. To be honest with you I'm not convinced by the A11 over the A8 for offroad. For example:-

    upthread I have pics of my shiny new custom Ti with Rohloff and I quickly realised that was overkill for my offroad needs. So I have the Rohloff on a Ti touring frame now instead, mainly funded by selling the Ti 29er frame. For thrashing around offroad I picked up a Karate Monkey frame and whacked on some Salsa Cromoto 29er rigid steel forks. At the moment that's running an SRAM I-9 hub gear and it's holding up well. But it's not got a great offroad reputation and I may move it to my wifes pootling bike before I kill it. To replace it I'm thinking an Alfine 8 and gearing it pretty low. A 34x21 will give me 25 to 76 gear inches, I can get up everything I need to with 25" and I spin out 76" at about 27mph.

    That's a long way of saying could you maybe get a deal with the shop for an A8 plus some money back? It's certainly more likely than being able to get a full refund on the A11. You'd get the same low gear as the A11 and only really lose out on the top two plus a bigger gap at 5-6.

  34. #384
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    Going from a 27 speed to an 11 speed was already a reduction in range. I got by with it but I wasn't thrilled. Losing even more top end just isn't going to cut it. As much as I love the idea of IGH, if Alfine11 #5 doesn't cut it, I'll be pushing for a 2x9 replacement more than an Alfine8. I figure in a 2x9, if I get a 28 and 40t chainrings, and a standard cassette, that's the same range as I have now with the 11. That will have to do, but hopefully this 11 lives.

  35. #385
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    A friend of mine has recoloured his grey Nexus Inter 8 and installed a disc brake adapter.






    The Nexus "Speedhub" now runs on his every day bike (sorry, no MTB).





    Cheers
    Flo

  36. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    Going from a 27 speed to an 11 speed was already a reduction in range. I got by with it but I wasn't thrilled. Losing even more top end just isn't going to cut it. As much as I love the idea of IGH, if Alfine11 #5 doesn't cut it, I'll be pushing for a 2x9 replacement more than an Alfine8. I figure in a 2x9, if I get a 28 and 40t chainrings, and a standard cassette, that's the same range as I have now with the 11. That will have to do, but hopefully this 11 lives.
    Ah, fair enough, I think I took your reference to SS too literally and so thought you may be happy going to fewer gears. Good luck with the next A11 anyway.

  37. #387
    I barf on top tubes
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    There is nothing I dont like about this bike... awesome build and finish....

  38. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlowinFlo View Post
    A friend of mine has recoloured his grey Nexus Inter 8 and installed a disc brake adapter.

    The Nexus "Speedhub" now runs on his every day bike (sorry, no MTB).

    Cheers
    Flo
    Kind of like putting one of those kits on your Fiero to make it look like a Ferrari? We always made fun of that guy.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  39. #389
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    The original look of the Nexus is quite lame, so he wanted a new colour. Everyone, who ever saw a Rohloff knows that this one isn´t one. So the decal only is for relaxed people who can handle the fake.

  40. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlowinFlo View Post
    So the decal only is for relaxed people who can handle the fake.
    LOL.
    “I don't like jail, they got the wrong kind of bars in there”

  41. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlowinFlo View Post
    The original look of the Nexus is quite lame, so he wanted a new colour. Everyone, who ever saw a Rohloff knows that this one isn´t one. So the decal only is for relaxed people who can handle the fake.
    I'd have made a decal that said "Lolhoff" to complete the tongue in cheek nod to the real deal.

  42. #392
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    Loving my Pace 104 Alfine :-)

    Edit >>> Not enough posts to put up a pic :-(
    MArk

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  43. #393
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    Alfine 11 upgrade

    Giant Seek 0 2011 bought second hand now under new managment: wheels rebuilt with new alfine 11 speed rear hub and XT front hub, Wellgo magnesium M138 pedals, BB7 calipers and SD7 Ti levers, 25.4mm FSA carbon bar, Poste Moderne Smica seatpost and stem, Continental Grand Prix 4 Season tyres, Ritchey WCS Biomax saddle, ti bolts/nuts. A lot of the changes were from stuff that I had spare. Am pleased with it and it weighs around 24lb. Alfine 8 and 11 are approxiately the same weight. Have dropped to 39t on front chainring (20t rear). Will not be letting it out of sight when parked!!!
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  44. #394
    I barf on top tubes
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    Thats a nice looking ride...Those Giants are so clean looking.

  45. #395
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    Last edited by Yoreskillz; 07-22-2012 at 09:27 PM.

  46. #396
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    almost two years and still working

    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-img_0239.jpg

    Keep those yellow marks lined up and the cable friction free as much as possible.

  47. #397
    Ride & Smile
    Reputation: KanzaKrūzer's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
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    Nuvinci 360 has been trouble free since September 2011. Swapped out my Racing Ralphs for some Big Apples and finally added a tangle bag.

    KanzaKrūzer
    Salsa Warbird | Kona Unit

  48. #398
    rollin
    Reputation: sriracha's Avatar
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    Jun 2004
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    Nickel 140

    Still trying to figure out a different chain tensioning setup, but I'm putting an Alfine-8 on a Santa Cruz Nickel!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-nickel12.jpg  

    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-nickel7.jpg  


  49. #399
    A Man Of The Truth
    Reputation: fellsbiker's Avatar
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    Its hard to tell without bouncing around on your bike, but it looks like you have lot more chain than you need. What I would do, since you have no chain-stays to worry about, is get the YESS bb tensioner. Its like what you have, but on a spring, not just fixed. Use just the right amount of chain so the chain doesn't restrict suspension travel, but there is minimal extra. A spring-ed tensioner at the BB and nothing at the derailer hanger is really an IDEAL setup, but I could never do that on my Maverick because the chain-stays are huge and right in the way.

  50. #400
    rollin
    Reputation: sriracha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    Its hard to tell without bouncing around on your bike, but it looks like you have lot more chain than you need. What I would do, since you have no chain-stays to worry about, is get the YESS bb tensioner. Its like what you have, but on a spring, not just fixed. Use just the right amount of chain so the chain doesn't restrict suspension travel, but there is minimal extra. A spring-ed tensioner at the BB and nothing at the derailer hanger is really an IDEAL setup, but I could never do that on my Maverick because the chain-stays are huge and right in the way.
    That's exactly what I'm going for....a sprung roller off of the BB, with no tensioner at the hub. I looked into the YESS bb tensioner, but they say it's not designed for full suspension, and doesn't pick up enough slack. But that set up is designed for bikes with chainstays.

    I attempted the high placed, static roller, as an experiment. I found that with a really high roller on the Nickel, it helps with chain growth, because the chain length below the cranks shortens, while chain length above grows. Below the cranks, the chain is angled up, as the wheel travels up, the chain becomes horizontal, and thus a shorter distance.

    My plan is a high place, high sprung roller or sprocket, looking similar to what I have. I'm switching to a 36T chainring, to help give more vertical space, and take up an extra 3/4 link that I couldn't remove.

    Side note: Yes, the chain is about 3/4 link too long. I let the air out of the suspension, compressed suspension, and then set the shortest chain length at full compression, with no roller. It is about 3/4 link too long. The other option would've been 1/4 link too short at full bottom out. Don't want to blow up the bike. Hoping to pick up the extra slack by adjusting my gearing a bit. Currently, it's 32x22. I'm thinking 36x22 will be nice.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-nickel.jpg  


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