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  1. #401
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    YESS told me the exact same thing. But every FS bike has a different amount of chain growth. If I were in your shoes, i'd definitely give it a try, If it doesn't eat enough slack, you can always resell it (possibly to me for my singlespeed park bike ) A static roller won't eat up the tension as the suspension travels though, you really need a spring. I ended up using YESS's other derailer replacement tensioner when I went IGH/SS on my Maverick. Works well but I'd definitely try the BB one. The tighter you make your chain, the easier a job the BB tensioner will have. Just make sure its not too sure. You don't want your chain to explode when you land a big drop. Also if you haven't already, I'd defintely ditch the "middle ring" with ramps and go with a stainless steel chainring with tall singlespeed teeth and no ramps. I never lots my chain with I ran IGH/SS with one of those, and no front guide at all aside from a bash guard. And even now, I run a 1x9 short cage with the surly SS chainring up front and no guide, and I lots my chain one time in a season of aggressive riding. Everyone I ride with has these elaborate chain guides, and they all lose their chain more than me.
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  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    YESS told me the exact same thing. But every FS bike has a different amount of chain growth. If I were in your shoes, i'd definitely give it a try, If it doesn't eat enough slack, you can always resell it (possibly to me for my singlespeed park bike ) A static roller won't eat up the tension as the suspension travels though, you really need a spring. I ended up using YESS's other derailer replacement tensioner when I went IGH/SS on my Maverick. Works well but I'd definitely try the BB one. The tighter you make your chain, the easier a job the BB tensioner will have. Just make sure its not too sure. You don't want your chain to explode when you land a big drop. Also if you haven't already, I'd defintely ditch the "middle ring" with ramps and go with a stainless steel chainring with tall singlespeed teeth and no ramps. I never lots my chain with I ran IGH/SS with one of those, and no front guide at all aside from a bash guard. And even now, I run a 1x9 short cage with the surly SS chainring up front and no guide, and I lots my chain one time in a season of aggressive riding. Everyone I ride with has these elaborate chain guides, and they all lose their chain more than me.
    A spring loaded front roller is definitely what I'm going to end up with. I just attempted the static roller as an experiment. I thought it wouldn't work, but wanted to see it physically not work, instead of visualizing.

    I will be running a ramp-less single speed ring, for sure. I was looking at the E-13 rings, because it has a ledge designed to help keep the chain on. You recommend the Surly SS? I was definitely looking for taller teeth, like you mentioned...hoping the E-13 has taller teeth. Chromag offers a single ring with taller teeth, but those are expensive.

  3. #403
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    Yeah I use the Surly and it's been great. Plus it's steel so it's very strong. Very little wear after a full season of riding. Compared to the aluminum middle ring of a 3x9 setup, where the middle ring is so worn after half a season, that it needs to be replaced. I don't know about the E13 rings though, they may be good too. I actually have a 36t surly i could sell you, it's practically new. Most people go with 32 though, and since you don't have chainstays to look out for, you'll probably want 32t.
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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    Yeah I use the Surly and it's been great. Plus it's steel so it's very strong. Very little wear after a full season of riding. Compared to the aluminum middle ring of a 3x9 setup, where the middle ring is so worn after half a season, that it needs to be replaced. I don't know about the E13 rings though, they may be good too. I actually have a 36t surly i could sell you, it's practically new. Most people go with 32 though, and since you don't have chainstays to look out for, you'll probably want 32t.
    I have some SLX cranks on order, with a 36T middle ring. I want to see if a 36T helps my situation. With the 32t, the tension roller puts the lower chain awfully close to the upper chain, to the point that they might hit each other. I'm hoping a 36T will create more room, take up the extra slack and prevent that from happening.

    Once I get all that dialed in, I'm going to order a proper chainring, and one of those rear Alfine cogs, with the plastic chain guide. I don't plan on running a front elaborate chainguide, either. I'm hoping that a proper, straight chainline, the Alfine rear cog and a tall toothed rampless front ring will keep my chain on...plus, a lot of constant tension from that lower BB sprung-roller.

    I'm going to attempt to make my own, with a longer swing arm than the YESS device, by placing the pivot closer to the BB. Thinking that will give me more tension travel.

  5. #405
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    btw, for all you wheel builders out there, I originally laced the wheel wrong, with brake tension spokes elbows out (as shown in above picture)... Luckily I caught this before tensioning the wheel. I have since re-laced and finished the wheel correctly with brake tension spokes elbows in.... laces out!

  6. #406
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    Installed 11 spd alfine a week ago and love it so far! 36X20t...

  7. #407
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    I've made a thread for my new build , but here it goes here too !
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  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by fokof View Post
    I've made a thread for my new build , but here it goes here too !
    I can't use the old line of "great minds think alike" as I'm not one, but there's some real similarity here. I just retrofitted my almost-9-year-old Rohloff'd Black Sheep using a VeloSwap-pickup Lefty Carbon SL/MendonCycle Smith overhaul/Project 321 adapter. The rear wheel will continue to be run as a V-brake, so I've got a mullet setup for brakes, but the balance between the brakes is still great. It weighs 26.2 lbs with pedals. My son's Lefty-equipped Cannodale Caffeine comes in at 24.5 lbs, but the weight savings doesn't make up for the real-world wonders of the Rohloff.
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  9. #409
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    Nice ride !!!
    Got to love those Lefty , ain't it right ?
    They are solo damn smooth , with a Ti frame , It's even smoother than any Carbon frame I've tried , I'm really impressed. It's my first Ti.

    Mine is 23,1 lbs with those tires. i could loose a pound by swapping the Brooks but my butt is worth that extra pound anytime !!



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  10. #410
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    The Nickel Lives!!!

    I have completed the build on the Nickel. I have developed a new BB mounted, spring loaded chain tension device, that works on elevated chainstay frames, with internally geared hubs.
    If anybody is interested in having one made, feel free to PM me.

    The homemade prototype is working great, with no dropped chains and no chain slap...the bike is whisper quite on the trails, climbs great and is a lot of fun for bounding, shocking and gnarling.
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  11. #411
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    Looks awesome. The dainty little springs found on most dropout tensioners don't hold up well at all. Good idea using a heftier one. Its probably a LOT less likely to break or lose it's tension. Sweet bike too.

  12. #412
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    Looks great, and nice work on the tensioner. I've tried a Yess ETR-B, you made the right call. Very lackluster tension from that unit.

    It's too bad, the Yess ETR-V is pretty awesome. I just don't like the placement, it's essentially a derailleur.
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  13. #413
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    yes, that is a fine looking ride.

    question though, do you need that much extra chain for the suspension travel?

    or is it a situation where removing another link is too much?
    occasional cyclist

  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by dru View Post
    yes, that is a fine looking ride.

    question though, do you need that much extra chain for the suspension travel?

    or is it a situation where removing another link is too much?

    Thanks for the compliments! Yeah, I'm pretty happy with the chain tensioner. The tension spring is a nice gauge and pretty strong. I certainly wanted strong tension, but it doesn't seem like it's too strong. It took some trial and error, selecting the spring and the location that I bolted the spring. I initially used a longer spring, that attached further out on the swing arm, but this created way too much tension. A shorter spring mounted half way on the arm works perfectly.

    The extra chain length is for the suspension travel. If I removed a link, the chain would be too short at full travel. Also, chainring diameter influences this. A 32T ring creates too much slack. A 36T, the chain is too short. A 34T chainring seems to work just right.

    I might try a 30T, if I can find one, and remove a full link...if I feel the need for a lower gear.

    After riding some rocky trails, I have declared my homemade chain tensioner a success, with no dropped chains and no chain slap.

  15. #415
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    Sriracha, is this your 1st IGH? If so, time will tell as to getting hooked. Personally I love the clean look, and resistance to crash damage.

    Gotta get me a fully one of these days. They look like fun in the rough stuff.
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    Srirach, have you considered the use of a half link to achieve a 'near perfect' chain length? I used one with a HT with vertical drop outs and did not use a tensioner until the chain stretched. No chain drops, but the back wheel was most certainly stationary!

  17. #417
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    It looks like he could actually remove at least one full link and still have plenty of chain for the full suspension path.
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  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha View Post
    The extra chain length is for the suspension travel. If I removed a link, the chain would be too short at full travel. Also, chainring diameter influences this. A 32T ring creates too much slack. A 36T, the chain is too short. A 34T chainring seems to work just right.

    I might try a 30T, if I can find one, and remove a full link...if I feel the need for a lower gear.
    You may want to go with the 30T or 32T as a starting point then change the rear cog to taste. And yea, if you find the perfect riding ratio but there's just a touch too much chain then a half link works great. I use one on my magicgear setup with vertical dropouts.

    Personally, I would use a 10T chainring if I could - more BB clearance. But there is no cog small enough for even a 22T chainring that would give a useable gear ratio. I guess I'll have to wait until someone invents a lightweight and durable driveshaft system. ;-)

  19. #419
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    Hey nice build. I'm trying also to build a bike with an alfine 11 or 8. With drop bars road gear shifter. Do they word well? Any recomendation about what to use?

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corporal Punishment View Post
    You may want to go with the 30T or 32T as a starting point then change the rear cog to taste. And yea, if you find the perfect riding ratio but there's just a touch too much chain then a half link works great. I use one on my magicgear setup with vertical dropouts.

    Personally, I would use a 10T chainring if I could - more BB clearance. But there is no cog small enough for even a 22T chainring that would give a useable gear ratio. I guess I'll have to wait until someone invents a lightweight and durable driveshaft system. ;-)
    I figured out a way to use a 32T chainring, and still take up the extra slack, without the top and bottom chains touching.

    I will have to position the idler pulley closer to the chainring, on the swing-arm, and also use a 13T Dura-ace pulley.

    I could certainly use that extra climbing gear.

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by dru View Post
    Sriracha, is this your 1st IGH? If so, time will tell as to getting hooked. Personally I love the clean look, and resistance to crash damage.

    Gotta get me a fully one of these days. They look like fun in the rough stuff.
    No, this is my 3rd IGH...I am definitely hooked!

    I first put an Alfine-8 on my Karate Monkey, roughy two years ago. I haven't had a single problem with that hub. After the initial cable stretch, I haven't had to touch it. It's probably due for a rebuild.

    I then bolted a Shimano Nexus 3-speed disc IGH on my vintage road bike. I really like that hub too, it's just too bad it has that bell-crank cable pick-up on the outside of the frame. I love how low profile the Alfine-8 is.

    I've always wanted an IGH on my full-suspension bikes, but the dropouts wouldn't allow it. When I saw this Santa Cruz Nickel frame for sale on a crazy closeout deal (still going, only $600!!!), and realized the dropouts would allow an IGH, I went for it.

    ...then, after looking at the bike, I realized I could create a new kind of bottom bracket spring-loaded tensioner. Allowed by the elevated chainstays, I am able to take up a lot more slack than a traditional frame.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazylemurboy View Post
    Srirach, have you considered the use of a half link to achieve a 'near perfect' chain length? I used one with a HT with vertical drop outs and did not use a tensioner until the chain stretched. No chain drops, but the back wheel was most certainly stationary!
    I considered it, but I am a Wipperman fan-boi. They don't offer a half-link for Wipperman chains, and for some reason, I don't want to use another brand's half-link....wouldn't that cause problems, mixing brands, in a chain?

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    It looks like he could actually remove at least one full link and still have plenty of chain for the full suspension path.
    Maybe if the chain stretches and the chainring teeth wear in a bit. It's really close. It's more like, if I removed 3/4 link, the chain length would be perfect. If I removed a full link, it would be 1/4 link too short.

  24. #424
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    Gold...well, brass plated, 9-speed Wipperman chain dropped 120grams over the single speed chain I was initially using.

    After some test rides on rougher trails, and still no dropped chains, I have declared this spring loaded tensioner a success!

    Time to develop version 2. I'm going to use a 13T Dura-Ace pulley, for the idler. Revise the design a little bit and see if I can get the weight down without sacrificing beefy-ness. The pulley alone will drop 30 grams over the double-bearing roller. Going to try to remove 100grams total from the tensioner.
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  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha View Post
    Maybe if the chain stretches and the chainring teeth wear in a bit. It's really close. It's more like, if I removed 3/4 link, the chain length would be perfect. If I removed a full link, it would be 1/4 link too short.
    In that case I'd definitely go with a half link.
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  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    In that case I'd definitely go with a half link.
    Are the half links interchangeable between brands? Can I use a KMC half link on a Wipperman chain?
    I was under the impression that frankenchains were not ideal.

  27. #427
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    All chains have the same link length so they should all work. The only issues might be plate thickness. The real issue with halflinks is that you are putting a pin back in your chain to install it, which in theory makes it a weak point. I think KMC makes some interesting half links that solve that problem, they have a little cotter pin on the the chain pin. You need more clearance for the chain but it looks like you have plenty of space. And just put all that stuff on the inside of the chain so it doesn't take your skin off.
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  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    All chains have the same link length so they should all work. The only issues might be plate thickness. The real issue with halflinks is that you are putting a pin back in your chain to install it, which in theory makes it a weak point. I think KMC makes some interesting half links that solve that problem, they have a little cotter pin on the the chain pin. You need more clearance for the chain but it looks like you have plenty of space. And just put all that stuff on the inside of the chain so it doesn't take your skin off.

    I might pick up a half link, but I think I can pull this off by repositioning the idler pulley, and using a larger 13T Dura-Ace pulley.

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha View Post
    I might pick up a half link, but I think I can pull this off by repositioning the idler pulley, and using a larger 13T Dura-Ace pulley.
    I use a YESS rear mounted tensioner when I convert my ML8 to singlespeed for downhilling. I find the sound of the chain going over the smooth coaster annoying. I was also using that tensioner for the few months I had an Alfine 11. If you could put a toothed tensioner pulley, that's what I'd prefer if I had that setup. Much smoother and quieter.
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  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    I use a YESS rear mounted tensioner when I convert my ML8 to singlespeed for downhilling. I find the sound of the chain going over the smooth coaster annoying. I was also using that tensioner for the few months I had an Alfine 11. If you could put a toothed tensioner pulley, that's what I'd prefer if I had that setup. Much smoother and quieter.
    Nice!

    Yeah, I'm going to be putting the 13 tooth pulley on, instead of the roller. Looking at a chain, it seems they are designed to ride on the bushing surrounding the pin, not the outer links. I'm hoping there will be a little less friction with a pulley.

    If rollers were superior, you'd think they would use them in some way, on a derailleur...and a lot of chain guide companies use idler pulleys, instead of rollers.

  31. #431
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    Yeah generally they use gears on pieces that can be adjusted to line up perfectly with your chain line, and rollers for parts that are not adjustable. Thats why my Yess tensioner has both. The "lower" pulley is adjustable and is a gear, the upper is not adjustable so its just a roller. The other thing I was thinking is that if you do a half link (which I think you should do), that's going to change the location of your tensioner arm and so you'll have to re calibrate it's spring.
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  32. #432
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    I can dial in the exact chainline of the pulley, with washers. Currently, tension of the device is increased or decreased by "clocking" it around the bottom bracket mount, and re-tightening the BB. Still in prototype mode, but it works.

    Surprisingly, the idler swing-arm doesn't have to move that much. Since I'm pushing the chain upward, this decreases the difference in chain growth, as the axle moves up...because the lower chain is a hypotenuse, it shortens a bit as it levels off.

  33. #433
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    You ought to take your rear shock out, and post a short video of the system slowly working through all of the bike's travel.
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  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by fellsbiker View Post
    You ought to take your rear shock out, and post a short video of the system slowly working through all of the bike's travel.
    That's a good idea. I will do that, when I finish the revised version, with 32T chainring, 13T idler pulley and trimmed bits.

  35. #435
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    If you think about it, a tensioner that pushes down, like the Yess tensioner, or a Surly Singulator attached to the derailleur hanger pushing down, is always moving up to release more chain. This requires even more chain length and more movement of the tensioner.

    Mine flexes down to release more chain, as the axle moves up. The most it moves down is at an angle up from horizontal, at full bottom out.

  36. #436
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    Hi Chaps,

    Here is my new Rohloff equipped steed



    The frame is steel (853 main tubes) and was built by a friend of mine who is just starting up a frame building company called Swarf Cycles.

    I am chuffed to bits with it to say the least. I have had my rohloff for about 6 years, I ran it on a full sus bike with a tensioner, but it is so nice running it with a dedicated frame with out any springy tensioners

    Stu
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  37. #437
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    Nice!

    Is that a KS Lev that I see as the seatpost? (I'm a telescoping post fan, so kudos if so.)
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  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    Nice!

    Is that a KS Lev that I see as the seatpost? (I'm a telescoping post fan, so kudos if so.)
    Cheers . Yes it is....at first before using a dropper I was like what's the point...they are heavyer and I need to know where the bike is by feeling the saddle on my thigh.....then I tried one and realised I was just plain wrong ....best thing to happen to my riding in years . Amazing how moving the saddle away from your balls at will helps give you more balls
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart B View Post
    Cheers . Yes it is....at first before using a dropper I was like what's the point...they are heavyer and I need to know where the bike is by feeling the saddle on my thigh.....then I tried one and realised I was just plain wrong ....best thing to happen to my riding in years . Amazing how moving the saddle away from your balls at will helps give you more balls
    Thanks for that feedback dude. I only accept criticism of telescoping posts from people who've actually tried one. I think the naysayers who haven't ridden hard on one are just ridiculing change, and don't know what they're missing.

    Hell, my cornering improved with a dropper post. Amazing.

    Sorry for off-topic! Sweet bike dude.
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  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    Thanks for that feedback dude. I only accept criticism of telescoping posts from people who've actually tried one. I think the naysayers who haven't ridden hard on one are just ridiculing change, and don't know what they're missing.

    Hell, my cornering improved with a dropper post. Amazing.

    Sorry for off-topic! Sweet bike dude.
    lol, nothing wrong with spreading the dropper post love

    I like it
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    I finished my 3rd DIY bike frame. Some custom Lefty clamps from MendonCycleSmith and an old clamp style Lefty give a 17.5mm *reverse* Pugsley style axle offset. It's like the Pug's rear end, just the other way. It gives enough clearance to stuff a fat tire on the front.

    I like the Alfine so far. The clutch feeling is a little weird, but not bad weird.



    Allow me to return the compliment....that is bonkers....like it!!!
    What exactly is a rigid hard tail?

  42. #442
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    double post

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    Currently in winter campus cruzer mode right now.



    Last edited by C9ollie; 12-17-2012 at 06:38 PM. Reason: formatting

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    Kinesis Decade Virsa Prestige

    16in frame (rider is only 5'7")
    Alfine8 on Mavic 26in EN521's
    Deore hydro's
    running 32:22

    after only recently converting from singlespeed I'm wondering if hub is a bit heavy and I be better off with a nexus sg-3d55 that i've now found out about
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-virsa-prestige-alfine8.jpg  


  45. #445
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    GT peace alfine 8

    small gt peace 26in
    alfine8 on Mavic XM719's
    32:23
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  46. #446
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    Nice bike - you will probably get used to the weight - just don't focus on it.
    I have used a Nexus 3 speed and its not too bad - just not quite as robust as the Alfine 8.

  47. #447
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    Mc sin

    Mountain Cycle SIN frame, Marzocchi 66 front, Marzocchi Rocco rear, Crank Bros seatpost, speedhub & DMR revolver front hub, Magura Gustav brakes, Raceface DH cranks & 36T ring, custom rockring, TIME FR pedals, Maxxis Minion DH 2,7 front & rear tires, old Mavic 321 rims... Spank (!!!) bar & stem, Chris King steelset headset.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-11-04-2012-low.jpg  


  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by rekrutacja View Post
    My Marin finally got his new chain tensioner. Chain tensioner was provided by Speedskater (thank you!) Fitting it was not easy (i have now 4 different octalink supports and one destroyed crank :-) and tolerances are very tight, but it works and looks good.

    Could you not make an ISCG, Bottom Bracket or bottom linkage mounted idler to get rid of that bikes chain suck while you were at it. You could run a shorter chain then, and have less slack needed to be taken up.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by rekrutacja View Post
    My Marin finally got his new chain tensioner. Chain tensioner was provided by Speedskater (thank you!) Fitting it was not easy (i have now 4 different octalink supports and one destroyed crank :-) and tolerances are very tight, but it works and looks good.


    crazy! I never saw this bike until now, and I coincidentally did the same thing on my Nickel. Who is Speedskater?

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by sriracha View Post

    What's the story with the brake adapter, I hope you've put the proper size adapter on since that photo was taken as you don't seem to have much pad/rotor contact.

  51. #451
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    No mtb, but still IGH bike p0rn

    Two hours ago I unpacked a very large parcel and Voilá! out in the dirt.


    Retrovelo Alfons von pu bär auf Flickr


    Retrovelo Alfons von pu bär auf Flickr

  52. #452
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    nice...something very appealing about your bike even though not my thing.

  53. #453
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    Great photos, lovely bike!
    I love the look of retrovelo bikes, but they seem so slow!

  54. #454
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    Van Nicholas Zion


    more pics here

    Idworx Mountain Rohler



    more pics here

  55. #455
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    got upset, started throwing things in the basement at each other, this fell down when I was done.
    winter bikie-poo.
    need smaller alfine cog to sort out the magic gearing but ah well.

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    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  56. #456
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    I've got a 20t and a 22t both very lightly used and for sale. PM me if you're interested.
    Check out my Mountain Bike Keychains on eBay

  57. #457
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    Other direction. have an 18 in there now, a 17 would be me a near-as damn perfect magic gear.
    Thanks though!
    If steel is real then aluminium is supercallafragiliniun!

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by faxe View Post



    other tall dudes riding big 26ers, and 29ers of course.....
    occasional cyclist

  59. #459
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    Might be the wrong thread but id like your opinion of running a Truvativ HammerSchmidt AM Crankset with a Shimano Alfine 11 speed hub.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_desh View Post
    Might be the wrong thread but id like your opinion of running a Truvativ HammerSchmidt AM Crankset with a Shimano Alfine 11 speed hub.
    I wouldn't.

    For starters, while I like the Alfine well enough, and my time on the Hammerschmidt was also pretty good, consider that there are mechanical losses in an internal gearing setup that are higher than a conventional derailleur drive train. Efficiency losses get multiplied, so if the Alfine is, say, 95% efficient, and so is the Hammerschmidt, and your straight chain is 98% efficient, then, (and this is really unscientific)

    .95 x .95 x .98 = ~.885

    vs one internal gear source:

    .95 x .98 = .931

    So you're losing a few extra bits of efficiency.

    Second, I'd like to keep my weight penalties in one place.

    Third, the Alfine 11 is (admittedly vague) generally regarded as less durable than an Alfine 8. If you were to abuse either of those hubs with a lower-than-recommended input ratio via the Hammerschmidt, you'd be better off with the 8. Big asterisk here, I haven't owned an 11.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_desh View Post
    Might be the wrong thread but id like your opinion of running a Truvativ HammerSchmidt AM Crankset with a Shimano Alfine 11 speed hub.
    In addition to what the other guy said, there's just no reason to do it. The 11 speed hub already gives you a very wide range of gears. If you really need more, the cost of an Alfine plus hammerschmidt is probably the same as a rholoff 14 speed. Which would be way better in terms of performance and definitely durability.

    If you break out a spreadsheet and do the gear ratio math, keeping the low front gear above the 1.9 input for the A11, I'm sure you'll find the ratios for the high front gear to be silly and useless. By my quick math, that will give you nearly a 7:1 top gear. Compared to a 4:1 top gear on a regular 3x9 derailler drivetrain. There's no point.
    Check out my Mountain Bike Keychains on eBay

  62. #462
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    Internal hub Colson

    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-img_0223.jpg

    '36 Colson frameset, headbadge, Wald Aero stem.
    The rest NOS or new.
    8 speed Shimano hub.
    Love it.
    Thanks for looking.

    DAvid

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by colson View Post
    '36 Colson frameset, headbadge, Wald Aero stem.
    That looks fun! More pics please!

    Might want to add a post here too: The Cruiser Thread
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  64. #464
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    Wow, impressive!

  65. #465
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    That raises an interesting question about the definition of cruiser. I have a '55 Schwinn Red Phantom, my wife rides a '58 Schwinn American, and I have a '36 Elgin I'm putting together. I know the stock bikes would be considered cruisers, but I didn't think this one would be since it's used off road. Maybe the old frameset is what determines the type name?
    I have pictures of this build from the bare frame up, I should gather them and post, it would be fun to see other member's builds from the ground up too.


    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    That looks fun! More pics please!

    Might want to add a post here too:

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by ekcyclops View Post
    Wow, impressive!
    Thanks!

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by colson View Post
    That raises an interesting question about the definition of cruiser.
    True, but that VRC thread has cruisers, 26" bmx cruisers, klunkers and bombers. Yours would be a great addition.

    But, to tell you the truth, this thread would be better:
    Lets see your klunkers

    Regardless, I'd say your bike deserves it's own "build" thread and a post in the klunkers thread.

    Again, strong work!

    P.S. There's a decent klunker thread here too: ★ RATRODBIKES.COM ★ • View topic - SHOW US YOUR KLUNKERZ
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by colson View Post
    I have pictures of this build from the bare frame up, I should gather them and post, it would be fun to see other member's builds from the ground up too.
    Here are a couple prewar bike builds with modern IGHs if you haven't seen them:

    My '39 DX: View topic - 1939 DX Schwinn Ace -- Finished | Retrobike

    sandmangts's ca '36 Elgin: How far can you take a pre-war frame?

    sandmangts's '36 Mercury: Pre -War Mercury project.
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  69. #469
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    Alfine8 on my 907FB, loaded and rolling in the mud.

    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-p1010011.jpg

  70. #470
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    Fresh build, waiting for delivery.
    Still needs tweeks...

    Shay and the crew at Freewheel Cycles are the best.

    d

    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-ml-c1.jpgInternal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-ml-c2.jpgInternal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-ml-c4.jpg
    Last edited by synthesis; 03-25-2013 at 02:22 PM.

  71. #471
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    nice looking bike....what cranks and brakes are those?

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by finch2 View Post
    nice looking bike....what cranks and brakes are those?
    Thanks finch2,

    Surly MWOD crankset.
    Shimano CX75 short pull calipers, work with Versa shift/brake levers.

    d

  73. #473
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    I wondered about that. I have a Nexus and have been timid about getting it wet and muddy, but it looks like I have nothing to worry about, you get it that muddy with no ill effects?


    Quote Originally Posted by OFFcourse View Post
    Alfine8 on my 907FB, loaded and rolling in the mud.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  74. #474
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    That was my first big mud up (it's summer here, still...) but it's on the beach and in the salt water often enough that I would have expected ill effects already if they were coming, probably due for a service tho lot of miles on it.

  75. #475
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    A pic from today's ride:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-nickel1-2.jpg  


  76. #476
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    hey sriracha looks good. what kind of chain tensioner is that?
    _______________
    1x10 IS SO FINE on my 21.9 lbs IBIS SL-R
    11-36 XTR in the rear, 36T wide-narrow upfront

  77. #477
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    Quote Originally Posted by biketuna View Post
    hey sriracha looks good. what kind of chain tensioner is that?
    It's a homemade chain tensioner, that I prototyped and built it in my garage.
    Want one? I am in conversation with a machine shop about doing a limited run.

  78. #478
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    I might need one for a future project. I don't like the rear derailleur type.
    Does it move? Do you have more pics?
    _______________
    1x10 IS SO FINE on my 21.9 lbs IBIS SL-R
    11-36 XTR in the rear, 36T wide-narrow upfront

  79. #479
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    I am interested in the tensioner as well. Will it attach to a standard frame?

    I have a Moonlander.

    d

  80. #480
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    Yo synthesis (fellow fatty rider here), if you have a Moonlander, why not just use the horizontal "dropouts"?
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Diller View Post
    Yo synthesis (fellow fatty rider here), if you have a Moonlander, why not just use the horizontal "dropouts"?
    Honestly Drew,

    The shop that built it recomended it. Said it would be easier to change wheel or swap rear cogs. So I am running a Paul unit now. Maybe I'll take it off and see how she runs.

    d
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-ml-c2.jpg  


  82. #482
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    The version I have created currently only works on bikes with elevated chainstays, as it pushes the chain up.

    I will eventually work on a version that pushes the chain down.

    My chain tensioner attaches to a standard bottom bracket, the same way a chain guide with rollers would attach, by being sandwiched between the BB and frame.

  83. #483
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  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by rekrutacja View Post
    ^^^Nice looking chain tensioner! Looks like it might be reversible by switching the springs. I also like the giant bearing used. My tensioner uses a brass bushing.

  85. #485
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    Carver 96er Alfine 11

    Here's my Carver 96er Alfine 11.........apologises about the goofy pose!

    EBB is good, running a 1/8" single speed chain, 32/23.

    The Alfine 11 is still a bit jumpy, but it is getting better.

    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-imag0470_resize.jpg

    In my quest to improve slipping in addition to playing with the tension and cable length I switched to seat stay cable routing (from chain stay) using Bue / Green non-turn washers plus I flipped the cog's dishing inwards (to avoid the rubber cable housing rubbing the wider 1/8 chain).
    Last edited by RockySpieler; 05-09-2013 at 03:46 AM.

  86. #486
    dru
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    You poor bastard! Where are you that you still have snow?

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

  87. #487
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    Quote Originally Posted by dru View Post
    You poor bastard! Where are you that you still have snow?

    Drew
    Old'ish photo taken on the 17-March-2013 on Dartmoor in the U.K.

    I just got back from a business trip to Madrid and took the photo to wind up a Spanish cycling colleague who cycles in the sunshine near Barcelcona,

  88. #488
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    Finally got an 8sp Alfine hub on the Coco, added 3 lbs to the ss weight but I am spinning up climbs I had to walk before.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-coconino8sp.jpg  

    I ride with the best dogs.




  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by synthesis View Post
    Honestly Drew,

    The shop that built it recomended it. Said it would be easier to change wheel or swap rear cogs. So I am running a Paul unit now. Maybe I'll take it off and see how she runs.

    d
    While you're still fiddling with the bike getting ratios right, I highly recommend running a chain tensioner until you sort everything out, just so you don't have to keep adding or removing links. After that, it's a matter of personal taste - I still have mine, but I won't cry myself to sleep when I remove it.

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter006 View Post
    While you're still fiddling with the bike getting ratios right, I highly recommend running a chain tensioner until you sort everything out, just so you don't have to keep adding or removing links. After that, it's a matter of personal taste - I still have mine, but I won't cry myself to sleep when I remove it.
    I switched to a 23T and got rid of the tensioner. Runs great now and no extra parts to get full of sand and grit. Was worried about the axle slipping in the dropouts but I torqued it to 32lbs (I think it was) and it hasn't budged. Very happy with the setup.

    d

  91. #491
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    Trek District Carbon Belt Drive Rohloff Road Bike

    Here is my newest project. A district carbon with a a rohloff and belt drive. There had to be a few very unique solutions to make this possible and im still not done. I am just finishing up a drop shifter that I have been fabricating and then I have to find a more elegant way to route the cables. The front wheel will match the rear, just waiting on my philwood hub. Let me know what you think, or if you have any suggestions. Cheers.
    Internal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-img_20130522_194158.jpgInternal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-img_20130522_194152.jpgInternal Hub MTBs, post yours here!-img_20130522_194024.jpg

  92. #492
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    WOW !

    Please report back your impressions.

    Curious about the feeling of the IGH on a road frame and if the extra weight in the back is annoying on a road rig.
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by fokof View Post
    WOW !

    Please report back your impressions.

    Curious about the feeling of the IGH on a road frame and if the extra weight in the back is annoying on a road rig.
    Actually Santos bicycles make a Rohloff road bike.
    Race Lite | Santos - Custombuilt Bicycles

    I just convinced Bill, one of my rando buddies, to add one to his bike. The biggest issue to solve is how to route the cabling for the shifters from the handlebars. I think the Santos solution is the cleanest, nicest solution, however it will probably add resistance to the shifting. It also removes the ability to easily grab the bottom of the drops.

    This district has taken an approach I haven't seen in a while - stem mounted. Nicely done.

  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by bsieb View Post
    Finally got an 8sp Alfine hub on the Coco, added 3 lbs to the ss weight but I am spinning up climbs I had to walk before.
    That is a very nice looking rig! Mind if I ask what the cost of converting was? And also, did you purchase a pre-built Alfine wheel or build yourself? Thanks for any info you can give.

  95. #495
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    I tested it out on the weekend, it rides really well! You dont notice any extra weight in the back although when you are in the lower 7 it does have a pretty loud hum. I am running a 60T ring and 19T cog so the hub RPMs are always pretty high.

    @hunter006 thanks . . . The stem shifter is a temporary fix though. I have modified a campy chorus(campy uses a duel ratchet system so when modified can pull 2 cables) shifter to pull the cables. . im just putting the finishing touches on it and ill get it installed.

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by justilew View Post
    I tested it out on the weekend, it rides really well! You dont notice any extra weight in the back although when you are in the lower 7 it does have a pretty loud hum. I am running a 60T ring and 19T cog so the hub RPMs are always pretty high.

    @hunter006 thanks . . . The stem shifter is a temporary fix though. I have modified a campy chorus(campy uses a duel ratchet system so when modified can pull 2 cables) shifter to pull the cables. . im just putting the finishing touches on it and ill get it installed.
    Great build! I would like to try Rohloff on road bike, and the belt makes a super clean bike!

    What is the weight?

  97. #497
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    ...and please post some nice outdoor photos!

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by kustomz View Post
    That is a very nice looking rig! Mind if I ask what the cost of converting was? And also, did you purchase a pre-built Alfine wheel or build yourself? Thanks for any info you can give.
    I had to shop around for my components, there seemed to be a shortage last winter. I have ~$275 in the hub, shifter, small parts kit, and cog. The rim, spokes, nipples, and tubeless liner were ~$175. I built the wheel myself, used the same size cog and the same centerlock rotor as I was running ss. My frame was built with cable clamps for this setup, so installation was simple. I set up the disc brake with the bare hub before I built the wheel, pretty much a drop in deal.

    Pacenti TL28 rim w/ Carver tubeless liner
    Wheelsmith black DB14 spokes and aluminum nipples
    I ride with the best dogs.




  99. #499
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    bsieb, thanks for the details. I am not sure why I am so hung up on an IGH? Especially when my 1x9 Deore works absolutely flawless, but this helps me know that I am on the right track cost wise. Decisions, decisions...

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by justilew View Post
    I tested it out on the weekend, it rides really well! You dont notice any extra weight in the back although when you are in the lower 7 it does have a pretty loud hum. I am running a 60T ring and 19T cog so the hub RPMs are always pretty high.

    @hunter006 thanks . . . The stem shifter is a temporary fix though. I have modified a campy chorus(campy uses a duel ratchet system so when modified can pull 2 cables) shifter to pull the cables. . im just putting the finishing touches on it and ill get it installed.
    Hiya. I hope you realise what you have done if you get a brifter working with a Rohloff?!!!! If you can let me know how you did it or do another one, I would buy it from you! There are a LOT of people itching to get their hands on one and NOBODY is making any!

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