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  1. #1
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    IGH on vintage 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney

    I have a question on IGHs. I currently ride a 29er and have found what I call a "dream gear" in which I can ride all day on gentle rails to trails. I have a classic 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney (my 1st MTB) that I was thinking of converting to 5 speed IGH. Could I set the middle gear on the IGH to my "dream gear" ratio and then have 2 up and 2 down gears from there or would the difference in 26" vs. 29" wheels change things? My "dream gear" on my 29er is 44T front ring and not sure in back. Would need to check. Noob at bike mechanics and gear ratios btw. Thanks for any suggestions.
    Current bikes: 2010 Raleigh Talus 29er with Ergon GP5 grips, Shimano PD-T420 Click'R pedals, Topeak Explorer 29" Disc MTX Rear Rack and Topeak DXP bag.

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  2. #2
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    Probably an OK idea, so long as you limit the bike to similar "easy" terrain. I have no experience with the old Sturmey-Archer 5 speeds, but the newer ones and Shimano 5-speeds are kinda weak for harder use. If you have to buy a new hub, I would probably choose a Shimano 8....more range and seems to hold up to rougher service.

    When you count teeth and figure out your gear ratioes, consider turning them into a figure you can translate across different platforms. I like "gear-inches" (each turn of the pedal equals how much distance), but your mileage may vary....

    start here, then click around if you want to learn more: Gain Ratios--A New Way to Designate Bicycle Gears

  3. #3
    Frt Range, CO
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    Your Mt Whitney is most likely 120mm rear hub spacing, all you'll find to fit is a lame-o Sturmey hub. I'd space the rear to 135mm and use an 8 speed Alfine or Nexus 8R36.

  4. #4
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    how do I space it? gently push the rear apart to squeeze in 135mm? I have no tools to do that.
    Current bikes: 2010 Raleigh Talus 29er with Ergon GP5 grips, Shimano PD-T420 Click'R pedals, Topeak Explorer 29" Disc MTX Rear Rack and Topeak DXP bag.

    2013 Walmart Mongoose Beast blue


    "Put The Fun Between Your Legs"
    "26" isn't Dead, it just got FAT"
    "I Dream On Two Wheels"
    "Be The Motor, You Are The Engine"

  5. #5
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    If the bike has sentimental value, I wouldn't respace the dropouts.

  6. #6
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    I plan on putting a Nexus 8 speed on my 82 Schwinn World Sport...I may try the all thread method.

    Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing

    The Plano Cyclist: Cold Setting A Bicycle Frame
    2013 On One Fatty / 2011 Trek Sawyer / 2011 Kona Dr. Fine / 1985 Schwinn Tempo

  7. #7
    Frt Range, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tunalic View Post
    ...I may try the all thread method....
    Sheldon's method has the important point, each dropout must be moved independently.

    The all-thread method assumes that each chainstay will deform symmetrically. Esp in the case of older frames, this isn't true. Usually the right side chainstay isn't as stiff due to the dimpling to make room for the chainring. So using the all-thread method makes the right side chainstay do most/all the movement/setting, the left side stay in place. That will cause the frame to be mis-aligned.

    If I'm spacing from 120mm to 135mm I move one side 7.5mm first, then the other side. I check the dropout alignment (with h-tools) after moving one side and re-align the dropout to the un-moved side keeping the proper reference to the center of the seat tube.

    To hold the frame in place, I use a bench vise and wooden blocks to hold the bottom bracket between the faces (with the frame upright). Then I can really lean into the stays and move them cleanly. I have found that adding in more than ~5mm of spacing will require the dropouts to be re-aligned with h-tools or a big wrench and a good eye.
    Last edited by pursuiter; 05-05-2014 at 02:29 PM.

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