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Thread: RASE post

  1. #1
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    RASE post

    Did anybody check this out at IB? http://reviews.mtbr.com/interbike/ra...able-seatpost/

    I've been wanting for a long travel quick adjust post for years and finally somebody is making one. The GD only goes up to 4" and that's not enough to reach full pedalling height and full seat slam for the steep drops.

    I'm skeptical about the reliability and durability but I'd love to hear if anybody actually got to touch and feel?

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    Bah! $400 and its got a worthless 1-bolt seat clamp setup - no thanks!

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    Those compromises are worth the 9" drop for me

    It's no Thomson but it has its advantages

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    Very excited by this. My Speedball is great but way too short. Nine inches sounds good to me. Let's hope it's reliable. One day all bikes will come with something along these lines. Once you have a telescopic post it's hard to imagine ever riding without one.

  5. #5
    fc
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    video and report available here:

    http://reviews.mtbr.com/interbike/ra...able-seatpost/

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    Quote Originally Posted by tim.johnston
    One day all bikes will come with something along these lines. Once you have a telescopic post it's hard to imagine ever riding without one.
    Both me and my friend use to own one. He got a GD first and then I got a AMP. Neither of us own one anymore. They aren't as useful in some regions. Out west or on trails with long sustained climbs sure, but here in the East its cost/benefit isn't good enough.

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    True Syadasti, does depend on terrain. Personally I run my seat high as I can get away with, so being able to lower and raise fast on the move over technical sections is invaluable. Have got into quite a rhythm with the speedball ( lever under seat version ) that I barley notice I'm doing it.

  8. #8
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    Rase seatpost rocks!!

    Installed the Rase Post on the 09' Moment a few weeks back. The whole idea of dropping your seat from full extension to launch mode on the fly is a dream come true. Gravity drop just doesn't cut it.

    Early morning run down Nobel Canyon's 14 miles of boulder gardens and fast single track requires some adjusting. Why give up your spot at the front of the line when you can adjust to any position at full throttle. First test proved its well worth the money and I might add weight penalty.

    The post was stiff, response time on the lever was fast and reliable, and it just plain works awesome.

    You can set height limit screw to stop right where you need it. I'm 6'4" so full extension is just perfect.

    There is some minimal play and noise while in the saddle, but I can get used to it. Should it be compared to a standard non-adjusting post? Probably not.

    Looking forward to see how well it performs on a muddy day!

  9. #9
    BMJ
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    So, how's it still working out for you?

    Mud?
    Are you running the Neoprene boot?

    Not a fan of the lever! How much cable does it pull, maybe I can retrofit a different lever.

    Thanks!!!

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    Was interested, but an extra brake lever......no thanks.

  11. #11
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    That was me.

    # Jason Says:
    May 13th, 2008 at 11:35 am

    I have talked to the People at Rase and they are working on making it smoother and the lever is going to be smaller.
    It will be really competitive from what i am hearing. Light. Smooth, more adjustable than anything in its class.
    Here are some of the features I have noticed that are no available on the other posts.

    It has an offset. That is something I really like. I race with a lay back seat post . I thought I woulod never find a post that was quickly adjustable and has a lay back off set. When racing some of the DH here is Ca it helps to be able to pop your seat up a little in places. It is a big plus in Super D racing.

    It also come is a 31.6 so it can work on the larger seat tubes. The GD does not . They told me to buy shims.
    I told them that sound like a band aid fix to a simple problem and Im not into it. I sold the GD.
    To put shims in the seat tube of a $2800.00 frame just seems silly. So I went back to my Thomson layback.

    A feature that this post has over the speed ball is it is a more positive locking set post meaning it will not pull up and out when you go off a jump and squeeze with your legs like the speed ball.
    Me being a Moto X racer I use my legs a lot to hold on to the seat.
    When the seat pops up 4 inches that would alow the bike to drop . That is no good for me. I tried it . I hated it.
    I sold it . It did come in a 31.6

    I cant wait to try the new Rase seat post. It sound like it has everything I am looking for.
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  12. #12
    BMJ
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    Hey Jason.

    So your at Intense now. Cool!

    I've been corrisponding with Austin at Rase for the past two weeks. I live not too far away from him and he said they should have the new lever set up in house for me to try out by next weekend. He also said that they should be available to ship in a few weeks, maybe sooner. It should be interesting to see how its functions compared to my Speedball.

    I wasn't sure I'd make use of the Speedball when I first got it, now I use it ALL the time! The problem is now I want MORE! 5 plus inches would be great for the boulder strewn terrain here in New England. I wasn't sold on their old off the shelf lever design. The new one sounds quite svelte!

    Are you running the outer neoprene sheeth?

    I'm going to bring my EVO with me to check fit when I see him. Austin has concern about the seat tube angle and bend half way down interfering with the posts function. He did say that the post can be limited in both up and down travel to custom tune. We'll have to wait and see.

    I'll let you guys know my thoughts. I'm VERY picky in my product choices!

  13. #13
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    I don't have the sheeth. I am hoping that Austin will send me the sheeth with the new lever.

    The Drop will have 9 inched of adjustable seat post.

    The cool thing is you can set it up so to limit your throw if 9 inches is to much movement. For some people with shorter legs the difference between xc setting and DH setting is only 5-6 inches.

    I was on an Uzzi today and had to move my seat 4 times.





    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    So your at Intense now. Cool!

    I've been corrisponding with Austin at Rase for the past two weeks. I live not too far away from him and he said they should have the new lever set up in house for me to try out by next weekend. He also said that they should be available to ship in a few weeks, maybe sooner. It should be interesting to see how its functions compared to my Speedball.

    I wasn't sure I'd make use of the Speedball when I first got it, now I use it ALL the time! The problem is now I want MORE! 5 plus inches would be great for the boulder strewn terrain here in New England. I wasn't sold on their old off the shelf lever design. The new one sounds quite svelte!

    Are you running the outer neoprene sheeth?

    I'm going to bring my EVO with me to check fit when I see him. Austin has concern about the seat tube angle and bend half way down interfering with the posts function. He did say that the post can be limited in both up and down travel to custom tune. We'll have to wait and see.

    I'll let you guys know my thoughts. I'm VERY picky in my product choices!
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  14. #14
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    That looks pretty cool. I didn't see that last year. I'll look for them this year.

    I like my speedball and probably don't need 9" of travel unless I get a bike with a much shorter seat tube than my large 6.6 but I do wish it could go down a little further for bigger drops and such.

    Having the front open like that makes me wonder about strength. But from the video the action looks smooth and the multiple engagement points along the travel is a good thing. It also seems to click in place solidly.
    Last edited by KRob; 09-08-2008 at 08:59 AM.
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  15. #15
    BMJ
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    So, without the sheath, do you find a gunk problem. I can't tell from the pics, but it looks like it might have a lip seal intergrated into the stationary lower portion. Is this correct?

    How's the action on the post? With such a long post, do you find binding if you put too much weight on it when compresing the post? Does it use bushings between the moving parts or is it just aluminum on aluminum?

    The website doesn't show much about the internals. What's your thoughts?

  16. #16
    BMJ
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    So I got a look at the post in person today. Austin is a real cool guy, very enthusiastic!
    You have to see it up close to appreciate the caliber of the design. Up till now, the photos on line haven't impressed me but seeing up close is a different story.

    Action was good, My Speedball is a bit smoother. Like the GD and AMP posts, it's mechanical and feels like it. Not a problem, just a comparison. The nine inches is awsome compared to the 3"s I have now.

    He has a new lever design that is going out with all the new orders. It's quite svelte! It's like a tiny brake lever with only 3/4s of an inch to grab with your index finger, not thumb like the other brands. Nothing like that Tektro lever they were using before. It's primo machining and fits snuggly between the grip and brake lever. He said he'd be posting an update online soon.

    The machining and consept of the post are solid. I'll get you an update when I receive mine and put it through it's paces.

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    Look forward to seeing more.

  18. #18
    BMJ
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    Still waitin'

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshG
    Look forward to seeing more.

    Haven't got it yet. Austin said things went great at Interbike, but sadly, slowed down progress in sending out product. Should be going out this week....I hope.

    Very eager to give it a thorough thrashin'!

  19. #19
    BMJ
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    Got my post today!

    Just finished mounting it up. So far so good.

    My initial thoughts are these....

    Pros
    -Nice clean design.
    -Solid locking mechanisim.
    -Nice little lever design.
    -FULL DROP!!!

    Cons?
    -Has a fair amount of play, for and aft, rotational, and a little up and down with the pin seating (most likely to keep things from binding. My Speedball has a fair amount of rotational play as well.).
    -I'm not fond of the fact that the cable is crimped at the lever instead of the post like my Speedball (I believe that GD and AMP use a crimp at the lever as well.).
    -Uses a spacific cable made by Rase with a stainless steel pin cast right on the end (Austin explained it was the best way to support the weight of the rider and keep the device simple. Could be an issue down the road if new ones are hard to come by.).

    I realize that the Cons list looks long, it's just that I wanted to be able to explain my thoughts thoroughly.

    I'm going to hit the trails with it on thursday night. The trails we'll be riding are a mix of large rock gardens, lots of roots, a handfull of large "up-&-over" boulders and fast smooth single track. I'll should have a more educated report and SpeedBall comparison for you by this weekend.

  20. #20
    BMJ
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    So, my thoughts.

    I was planning on putting out my thoughts of this post sooner but I wanted time to feel it out.

    So, I'm back on my SpeedBall.

    The Rase post really didn't agree with the seat tube angle of my Chumba EVO or my particular riding style. The seat tube angle on the EVO is pretty slack, though not as slack a Maverick bike. The angle and the full extension of the post put way too much load on the mechanism and would cause severe binding when trying to lower it in a pinch. This was an issue for me because I prefer to raise and lower my post many times throughout the ride and usually after I'm in the thick of it. I find that the SpeedBall suffers none of this binding and responds instantly even under full load! The big bummer is that I would have loved to have had the 9 inches available to me but I much prefer to have 3" of silky action at my command.

    I've never used a GD or AMP product and don't know if they exhibit any of the binding issues. I guess the best way to use this product is to plan where you want the post well in advance to dropping into the nasties. Just not my riding style is all.

    Another product I did get to try out with high hopes was the Kind Shock KS-900r "Cobra" post. This post looked promising due to fact that it looked to function like the SpeeBall but with 5 inches. When I received it I was very disappointed to find out that It too suffered from binding as well as it had a very slow return rate without any way that I could see to speed it up. The SpeedBall and Joplins, you can just add more air pressure to pop them up quicker. The remote lever was very ergonomically unfriendly as well. If you did choose to go with the remote version of this product, I would suggest sourcing some other type of lever to make it fuction.

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    I emailed Rase about the binding issue the previous poster mentioned, here is their response.

    I have people with super slack frame angles using our post and they say that all a person needs to do is use the post for a short while and lowering the post/seat at the right angle becomes automatic.

    This guy actually came here and we checked out the post with his bike.
    His frame angle was actually very slack at around 68 degrees.

    I even told him that he might have a binding issue with such a slack frame.

    Very few frames have such a slack angle accept downhill rigs where the post cannot fully lower anyways.

    I think if this guy had adapted to the post a bit more he would not have had a problem.

    Generally, there are no issues with our post sticking at all.

    All the other comments about our RASE post on mtbr.com are more respectable.

    Other questions, let me know!

    Thanks,

    Austin Walsh
    RASE Components

  22. #22
    BMJ
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    My response.

    Quote Originally Posted by bogey
    I emailed Rase about the binding issue the previous poster mentioned, here is their response.

    I have people with super slack frame angles using our post and they say that all a person needs to do is use the post for a short while and lowering the post/seat at the right angle becomes automatic. It's no where as automatic as any of the other posts I've used which include the Speedball (the smoothest), AMP and Cobra i900.

    This guy actually came here and we checked out the post with his bike.
    His frame angle was actually very slack at around 68 degrees. Agreed, although we never actually measured it's angle.

    I even told him that he might have a binding issue with such a slack frame. Austin's only concern at the time was of my frames ability to utilize the full length of the post and the seat clamps limited angle adjustability, not binding. The binding issue didn't come up untill I brought it up after using his product.

    Very few frames have such a slack angle accept downhill rigs where the post cannot fully lower anyways. More and more frames are coming with some strange angles and shapes.

    I think if this guy had adapted to the post a bit more he would not have had a problem. This is the only post I've ever had to think of adapting to. It should be second nature and if it utilized tighter tollorences and some sort of lubricating bushing system, maybe it could.

    Generally, there are no issues with our post sticking at all. "Generally".

    All the other comments about our RASE post on mtbr.com are more respectable. The other comments are more respectable because he likes them better. One has to take the bad with the good. I've offered a handfull of input that could help make his post better and he pu-pu's them like he knows all. I'd love to give a run at a 9" post but with the added leverage against his product the tolerances and a really good teflon bushing system along with a harder surface coating like on a suspension fork would go a long way! For $400-, this post should be functionally a no brainer.

    Other questions, let me know! Same.

    Thanks,

    Austin Walsh
    RASE Components


    I hate to jump on peoples products, I much prefer to give them rave reviews. I feel I need to put my 3 cents in on this one for a few of reasons. $400- is alot to spend! There isn't alot out there about this product. I can't sit by and not put in my thoughts when others might be concidering spending this much as well. I appreciate Austin taking the time to meet with me initially and the fact that he was gracious enough to take the post back when I wasn't satisfied, but I don't appreciate the fact that he finds my posting not to be respectable!

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the response BMJ, I found your comments very useful. I agree, $400 is a premium price, and it sounds like this issue isn't consistent with the premium bike component niche.

    However, I don't see any disrespect in Austin's response, just his point of view.

    Thanks again for being so thorough in your review. I have to believe Rase will look seriously at resolving this issue with their next revision.

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    I could guess Austin has confused the word respectable with 'positive'. Or at least I would hope!

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    I have been using a RASE post for a couple of months now and love it. I like it much more than my previous Joplin R. There is a very little bit of play, and its louder than the Joplin but it works much better.

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    Has anyone using this post had an issue with the seatpost clamp? I prefer not to use a single bolt model as I break them from time to time (has never happened with a dual bolt clamp).

    Any comments on the maintenance? - frequency, time required?

    Adjustable posts seem to have a lot of issues overall - some people have problems with each model, some don't. Anyone have good or bad warranty experiences to share?

    Thanks

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    I went with the Fezzari (same as KS) 3 months ago...

    1) The seat clamp is made of butter. Tighten it down and after 1 or 2 rides the material would creep. Tightened it again but eventually the top clamp bottomed on the bottom so no more tightening force could be exerted. I ground the middle of the clamps to provide a bit more clearance but this only delayed the process and the creep/bottoming returned. Like somebody else on these boards, I modified the post with a clamp from another post (Kalloy?) and all was solved.

    2) The post worked great for 2 months. Zero slop, nice action. But a few weeks ago it wouldn't stay up or down for me. Others have been using there's for longer so maybe it's just my fat @ss :-)

    Returned it to Fezzari under the 2 yr warranty. At first they told me they had no invenotry and would be refunding me the purchase price. I was happy with that as the 5" drop just isn't enough for the steep terrain around here - I need the seat slammed or 8" off the seat tube. Now they tell me they're not going to refund me but rather they'll be getting inventory in a few weeks.

    I'm just going to sell the new post they send me. Make me an offer!!!

  28. #28
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    $400?
    WTF? I could build one of those for like $25 and have it be more reliable and probably weigh less!

    EDIT: Okay maybe $50.
    Good luck with that, mister 300-Mile Turn Radius.

  29. #29
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    I have one and it works ok. If you dont keep it lubed it WILL bind on you!! It has more seat play than I would like but its not really noticeable when you are on the bike and climbing. The lever for dropping the seat is terrible, can be hard to reach and the lever action is hard to push. Out of all the things they need to fix fast - I would say this is it. Its to the point where I am considering going back to the Command Post now that they have the new seals etc.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBShane
    I have one and it works ok. If you dont keep it lubed it WILL bind on you!! It has more seat play than I would like but its not really noticeable when you are on the bike and climbing. The lever for dropping the seat is terrible, can be hard to reach and the lever action is hard to push. Out of all the things they need to fix fast - I would say this is it. Its to the point where I am considering going back to the Command Post now that they have the new seals etc.
    Only Specialized product you should trust
    Good luck with that, mister 300-Mile Turn Radius.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mountain_bomber156
    Only Specialized product you should trust
    Hey Now!!! My bike is a Specialized too!!!
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    We should all kick each others asses to protect the environment.."

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBShane
    The lever for dropping the seat is terrible, can be hard to reach and the lever action is hard to push
    I actually think the lever works very well. Did you move your shifter away from your gri and put the lever next to your grip? For me that puts the lever in the perfect position.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog
    Has anyone using this post had an issue with the seatpost clamp? I prefer not to use a single bolt model as I break them from time to time (has never happened with a dual bolt clamp).

    Any comments on the maintenance? - frequency, time required?

    Adjustable posts seem to have a lot of issues overall - some people have problems with each model, some don't. Anyone have good or bad warranty experiences to share?

    Thanks
    I much prefer the single large bolt and the thick pieces of aluminum in for the clamp. I've never had the smaller two bolts break though either. However, the hole in in the tube for the GD post broke on me twice and I just don't trust that set up. The AMP has the same. I'll take some close up pictures of the RASE clamp at some point.
    I haven't had any maintenance issues as yet; I just wipe it quick and hit it with a light coat of spray WD 40 each ride. I will look for something else though that is cheap and doesn't leave a residue.
    I have found a couple more function 'issues' with the RASE after further use. I'll post a more thorough review soon, but just say that all of the issues are livable, and in fact, I'm so much more enjoying riding . I just went to WhiteClay in DE today and every new down or uncertain trailI I dropped the post. I had so much more control and confidence whipping through the roller-coaster sections.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mailloux
    I actually think the lever works very well. Did you move your shifter away from your gri and put the lever next to your grip? For me that puts the lever in the perfect position.
    The position is fine, its actually using it that I dont like the feel of, its much harder to use than the others I have used. The cable feels like it is hung up but it isnt. It just is nowhere near as smooth as the others I have tried. The Command Post was by fat the best in this area but I had the same problems other people had with loss of pressure in their system, when it worked, it worked better than any of the others though.
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  35. #35
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    Disagree

    Quote Originally Posted by syadasti
    Both me and my friend use to own one. He got a GD first and then I got a AMP. Neither of us own one anymore. They aren't as useful in some regions. Out west or on trails with long sustained climbs sure, but here in the East its cost/benefit isn't good enough.
    I disagree - I think they are BETTER suited for riding out East (at least Northeast). Our hills are relatively short, steep and technical. When I had friends visit from out West, they are constantly asking me if "we are at the top of the hill" so they can lower their seats. Out west its all up, lower the seat, all down, so essentially 1 seat height change. With a Speedball I change the height of my seat maybe 30 times during a ride (sometime I'll have to count to get a real number).

    John

  36. #36
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    I've waited to post this until I've had some real time on this product. Now I have about 4 months of at least 3x a week riding on it.

    I just did the Rubicon 4x4 technical jeep trail in the Sierras last Friday and all I can say is awesome! It made the differece for me between riding most all of it and walking. I had my seat up and down on that ride more than I shifed my gears! The fact that it drops 9" saved my ass many a time on the super steep stuff.

    As for the issues posted above:
    I did loan it out to a very heavy friend with a DH bike and apparently a very slack seat tube and he did complain of binding. He is also on one leg (seriously) and has difficulty unweighting the post before lowering it.

    I've had no such trouble (Ibis Mojo and SC Blur). I simply take most of my weight off, hit the lever and sit. I find it extremely smooth especially if I sit a little forward of center when I do.

    As for the lever, it's my understanding the earlier ones were bigger. Not this one. I think it's the perfect size.

    Lube? I suppose I should read as to what the manual says, but I've just used a dry spray lube with teflon with good success. (lubed it about 1x a month) I keep the boot on all the time.

    This is a new product and I'm sure most of these bugs will be worked out, but so far, based on my experience I'd recommend it and won't part with mine.
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  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountain_bomber156
    $400?
    WTF? I could build one of those for like $25 and have it be more reliable and probably weigh less!

    EDIT: Okay maybe $50.
    I invite you to come by the shop and have a look at the operation. I think you'll come away with a different point of view.
    You can reach me through the service email on the RASE site.

    Actually, I invite anyone with questions or criticism to hit me up. We're small and we're relatively new and can use the feedback. I feel that I miss a lot of good info that flows through this site.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by w00dy
    Actually, I invite anyone with questions or criticism to hit me up. We're small and we're relatively new and can use the feedback. I feel that I miss a lot of good info that flows through this site.
    THANK YOU for making a 30.0! But your seatclamp sucks. How's that feedback?

    So, if you've no need for a 9" travel can you set the limit and hack off the unused portion of the "I-Beam"? I'm thinking interupted seat tubes...

  39. #39
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    Thanks for the kind words, Jack.

    I'm especially glad you like the lever. A lot of work goes into that.

    Give a shout if you have any issues. The service email on our site goes right to me.

    Cheers,
    Dave
    Last edited by w00dy; 11-08-2009 at 11:06 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrack
    THANK YOU for making a 30.0! But your seatclamp sucks. How's that feedback?

    So, if you've no need for a 9" travel can you set the limit and hack off the unused portion of the "I-Beam"? I'm thinking interupted seat tubes...
    Thanks for the honesty. That is a complaint I've heard before. People see the 1 bolt clamp as a big negative just because all the cheap companies use that design. I have no complaints with it. It's simple, and works for my 205lb self.

    You can limit the travel, but you aren't able to cut extra length. We will have a 6" travel version in the near future, as well as a thompson style clamp for you 1 bolt whiners.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by w00dy
    Thanks for the honesty. That is a complaint I've heard before. People see the 1 bolt clamp as a big negative just because all the cheap companies use that design. I have no complaints with it. It's simple, and works for my 205lb self.

    You can limit the travel, but you aren't able to cut extra length. We will have a 6" travel version in the near future, as well as a thompson style clamp for you 1 bolt whiners.
    I know you're kidding, but calling your potential customers whiners because they know what they want is pretty lame. I weigh 145 and I've never used a single-bolt clamp that DIDN'T break. So there. Besides, WTF is the point of all that setback.

    Is the clamp/post one piece or is the clamp "glued" on? I won't be using a bonded clamp either. They cause my vagina to get all sandy.
    Last edited by singletrack; 10-14-2009 at 03:26 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrack
    I know you're kidding, but calling your potential customers whiners because they know what they want is pretty lame. I weigh 145 and I've never used a single-bolt clamp that DIDN'T break. So there. Besides, WTF is the point of all that setback.

    Is the clamp/post one piece or is the clamp "glued" on? I won't be using a bonded clamp either. They cause my vagina to get all sandy.
    My sincere apologies if I offended anyone. Just a bit of friendly heckling.
    If I may ask, can you name a couple of brands of broken 1 bolt posts you've broken?
    The design is very popular with all the cheapest brands because it has the lowest number of parts. I've broken a couple of those myself, but I tend to blame that on the build quality.

    The clamp is not integral, the two parts have an interlocking boss and then are secured with two 5mm bolts. No bonding, it's very secure. The new clamps we're developing will be interchangeable.

  43. #43
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    Not offended. Just particular.

    I've got a lot of experience with rental fleets, so you find out what breaks based on a pretty wide sampling. I don't really see how one brand is different than another. It's usually house brand stuff, because who would buy a 1-bolt post aftermarket?

    At any rate, what's the point of defending a 1-bolt? They suck. Don't Use them. It's good that you are addressing this, since it'd likely turn-off 3/4 of the people that would consider a $400 post.

    A good adjustable seatpost must first be a good seatpost. As has been noted many times before, no one has managed that yet. Good luck!

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    As I mentioned before, after breaking two GD posts myself I have no faith in the skimpy two bolt system of the GD or AMP clamps. However, I've had no problem with the one-bolt clamp of the RASE. The bolt is twice the size of my Thomson bolts and the pieces seem machined well, with none of the little fiddly nuts. I set it once or twice to find where I wanted it and have ridden it for 500+ hard trail miles with no issues. This system hasn't broken, the while other two bolt systems I've experienced have. Whatever the design implementaion the RASE has it's not the same as the single bolt I've seen on cheaper bikes and probably not the same as what you saw on the rental fleet. The primary reason I went with the RASE is because it's the only 27.2 that had a clamp I hadn't broken yet. I've had other issues to complain about with the RASE as you can see in my previous post, but the clamp isn't one of them. It's also a lot easier to make adjustments.

  45. #45
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    Even if it's not broken there's the issue of the setback....

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    Quote Originally Posted by w00dy
    in the near future, as well as a thompson style clamp for you 1 bolt whiners.
    I have your post and love it, but on rare occasion the seat clamp will losen on me and I have to to tighten it on the trail. Will I be abke to purchase one of the new clamps and retro-fit my post?

  47. #47
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    FYI. We have two Rase Posts. One is on a demo Ridge and one is on a reps gruitr. The rep weighs 230lbs and is using the 27.2. Not a problem so far. And this dude is a hard freerider. The demo is getting beat by all sorts of peeps. Not a problem there either.
    Oh ya. The post works great!

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    I'm thinking about buying one of these, but I have some questions:
    1. Can you get them to Belgium?
    2. When does the thomson-style clamp arrive?
    3. How's warranty?
    4. Will there be a version without setback?
    5. How does it perform in Belgian mud winters?

  49. #49
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    Tim: The new clamp will be reverse compatible and available for individual purchase.

    Hubert: We can ship to Belgium, but it will probably incur import taxes.
    I don't have a date yet for the 2 bolt clamp, but the testing is going favorably. We will likely begin production of that on our next run of posts. This option has no setback.
    The warranty information is spelled out at length on our website www.rasebike.com,
    If you leave the neoprene cover on it should fare well in the mud. Just be sure to clean and re-lube it with oil or light grease once in a while.

  50. #50
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    Don't get rid off the layback clamp . Alot of people need layback on their posts and almost all the adjustable posts are inline.

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    2nd the request to keep the layback.

  52. #52
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    Going on almost a year and mine is still working great. I just keep it clean and lube it once in a while. I do not ride it all the time here locally, but ANY time I go to the mountains or someplace I've never been I'll take it... it's my "security blanket"!
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    length?

    I've been looking at these, could be promising. My frame needs a 27.2, so that rules out some other brands, and 9" of drop sounds sweet. My main concern is, what is the total (exposed) length of the post at max extension? (meaning height above the seatpost clamp) My frame has only a 16.5 inches seat-tube for a medium frame, so I gotta run a pretty long post to get proper pedaling position uphill.

  54. #54
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    Drop Post for road riding

    One of the things I hate about road riding for even 5 minutes is that you almost never move on the seat, and my butt just can't take it. That is one reason I dig MTB so much more, you're never in the same position for very long.

    However for a few months I started hitting a river path when the trails were too muddy and even went on my first couple of road rides (knobby tires and all). One thing I found was that I actually love having the drop seat on the road because I like being able to change the seating position.

    I commented on this before; if I have my RASE at the highest position it's actually too high to use all the time. I'm over extended and I'm sure it would cause some injury if I only rode like that. But for a minute or two it's great. I find it changes up my legs muscles and stretches them out. Lately I've found that I adjust through the top few holes (1.5") all the time, I reckon there's even a market for a 2" drop post for roadies as conventionally they are stuck with one position the entire ride. (many hours in some cases)

    The other huge benefit is for when you're screaming down a hill at 40mph. There's no real need for a drop post, but it's sure fun to have. I drop the Rase about 7" and low ride down. I feel in more control and I can sit somewhat upright still with less wind resistance. It's awesome and a ton of fun. It also puts me in a completely different position again which seems help with the fatigued muscles too.

    I wanna hit the road a lot more this year and I was thinking about getting a road bike, but I've decided (as I happen to be upgrading my MTB wheelset) to put some slicks on the old wheel set and road ride with the MTB, Rase post and front shock included ! Part of my decision was, "well, if I get another bike for the road I won't have the drop post, and I like the drop post..."

  55. #55
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    I recently purchased the Rase Seatpost used after using a Specialized Command Post for 6 months or so.
    The Command Post is way better than the Rase on side to side play and lever feel, etc.
    But... i need way more than 4in of travel so i needed the Rase. I guess i am stuck.
    The Rase Seatpost is crazy loud on the DH when out of the seat. It rattles like crazy. I thought something was wrong.... well, i still think so. I understand machine tolerances, but dang, this thing sounds super loud. It ruins my helmet cam audio cause it drowns out the normal MTB sounds of the bike and ground. The post moves up and down when the lever is pulled fine (greased up) and is OK to ride with. I do like it being more mechanical with springs vs. the air and seals of the air posts, but it is definitely not as good from side to side and up and down play as the Command Post. The CP is pretty dang good.

    Does anyone else think the Rase Seatpost is too loud or rattles too much on the DH?

    I should post some raw helmet cam footage.

  56. #56
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    I had the Rase post for a short while. I liked the 9" drop and I thought the spring system worked pretty nicely. But, you are right, It wiggles in every direction possible creating a crazy racket where ever you go! I have other issues with this post but yes, it's LOUD!

    I'd like to see them do some revisions, I think it could be a good contender.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsunayoshi
    2nd the request to keep the layback.

    Ditto - the only other adj seatpost with an offset is the Joplin - don't make those that need an offset use a joplin - please don't!

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMJ
    I had the Rase post for a short while. I liked the 9" drop and I thought the spring system worked pretty nicely. But, you are right, It wiggles in every direction possible creating a crazy racket where ever you go! I have other issues with this post but yes, it's LOUD!

    I'd like to see them do some revisions, I think it could be a good contender.

    I posted above about the crazy rattle when riding...
    I actually sent in the post cause i thought something was actually wrong with the post. They tested it and said it was within spec but they were still going to try and update it with this new sleeve or something. After a 3 weeks of having it, they said it was not working right. So they are sending me a completely new post with this new sleeve or something. I should be getting it this week and i will write back when i get a few rides on it. I hope this thing has less rattle. I can't stand crazy noises when riding.
    But i do give Rase a very good rating on customer service. Huge detailed replies by email from the technician. Very professional as well.

  59. #59
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    any update on when a seatclamp without offset might be available for the Rase?

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    Never I hope. Or at least only as part of a range that still includes layback.
    There are many inline adjustable posts on the market. RASE's main advatage is it's layback

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nsynk
    Never I hope. Or at least only as part of a range that still includes layback.
    There are many inline adjustable posts on the market. RASE's main advatage is it's layback
    Ditto.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nsynk
    Never I hope. Or at least only as part of a range that still includes layback.
    There are many inline adjustable posts on the market. RASE's main advatage is it's layback
    It said earlier in this thread that there might be a straight seatclamp that could be used to replace the offset one on old posts..... since I already have a RASE, it would be nice to be able to change as I have it slammed as far forward as it can go and would still like to push it a little more. It would be great to have a choice.

    I happen to think the main advantages to the RASE post are that it works (unlike the Joplin), has many adjustment positions (unlike the Gravity Dropper) and has more drop than any other post. Disadvantages for me are the offset, and (while I have not yet had any problems) the inability to repair or replace a damaged or dirty cable without sending it back to RASE.

  63. #63
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    Did the inline seatpost clamp ever become available?

    I've been holding off on a purchase, waiting for it to come out.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by zahgurim
    Did the inline seatpost clamp ever become available?

    I've been holding off on a purchase, waiting for it to come out.
    I emailed RASE in July or August to ask if a new clamp would be available and they eventually responded that the company has a lot of other things on the go (other non-biking product lines) and the addition of a zero offset clamp was not imminent..... it really didn't sound like there was anything going on in that respect. So I wouldn't wait for RASE if I were you. If I were buying new right now, I'd be looking at the new RockShox Reverb, although it's a little scary buying a 1st generation product.

    The RASE does work well, but I would really like a zero offset.

  65. #65
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    Any update on whether the new RASE post eliminated the rattling?

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    I had my RASE post sent in like 6 months ago and they tried to update the sleeve on it but couldn't. So they sent me a whole new post with the new sleeve on it which was supposed to eliminate the rattling a bit. It was absolutely no different. I sold it right away and got a KSi950. Way better. That RASE post made me so pissed off while riding. It sounded like my bike was broken while riding. The rattling is so loud, my helmet camera picks it up super loud.
    That bad.
    Over it.
    Buy the Command Post, KSi950R, or Gravity Dropper in my opinion. Those are the ones i have used and can recommend. I got the i950R cause it had the most travel at the time, 5in. I heard the Gravity Dropper is coming out with a 5in model??

    But with all due respect to RASE, the CS was great and they helped me out a ton. But... their post just sucks until they fix that rattle, the crappy lever, and the single bolt seat mount.

  67. #67
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    Thanks for the update.

    I can't in good conscience buy a Specialized component for a non-specialized bike, nor a seatpost that uses a booty. Its not them its me.

    I was really eying up a ksi900 (need the offset) but some reports of some issues, plus RS and Blackx have options too. Don't know if the reverb has an offset offering though.

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    Hello,

    People have occasionally commented on the RASE post making sounds when the rider is unseated and the bike is traveling over jarring terrain, to therefore shake the post. It seems that riders who ride down longer downhill sections mainly pick up on these sounds.

    I mainly ride trails that have many small hills with with somewhat steep and challenging terrain. While riding down short descents I am usually too busy trying to find the best line and catch a bit of air off small rocks to notice any sounds from the post moving around.
    The rest of the time I'm usually seated, so I have never actually heard this sound myself.


    The mini Rapid Index Trigger Shifter though, was the result of a combined design effort from a number of riders from all over the world. The main idea behind the Mini Trigger Shifter, is that gear shifters used to be positioned on the top of the handlebars, yet they quickly were changed to be positioned under the handlebars so that the riders thumb would stay locked under the grip.

    These gear shifters now take up this actuating space under the grip. Like the Index trigger of the Rapid Fire shifters, the RASE Mini Trigger Shifter is positioned in front of the handlebars where it is accessed by the riders Index finger.

    The RASE Mini Trigger Shifter does work very well, being positioned in the space right next to the grip and reaches out by only a finger width as to not get in the way of any other index shifters. The RASE Shifter is CNC machined, very rugged with great cable routing and extra great looks.

    Thanks,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

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    Hey Austin- do you guys offer a "Refurbish" to your posts? I have two that I love and would like to get them sent in to have them gone over. One has had some noticeable wear and tear and would prefer to have you guys put new cables, etc on them.

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    Hello Mbell,

    Good to hear that the RASE post is working well for you.

    You should be able to get through to the RASE crew at rasebike.com.
    They should be doing refurbishes for the cable housing, as the cable might need to be changed up when the new housing is replaced. New grease should be put in with the locking pin, a new wiper seal should probably be put in also. Any other pieces can also be easily switched out if needed.

    Keeping a light coat of oil on the Teflon Hardcoat seatpost will help shed off any dirt and keep the post sliding well.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

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    Hello Austin,

    thanks for posting here.

    Any news when the inline head will be available?
    There have been pics like this for quite some time now:


    Since the head is srewed on with the current (offset) head, will it be possible to change the offset head to the inline one?

    While the rattling of the seatpost is noticeable, the only real drawback for me is the offset. The sitting position (on my bike), especially noteceable on uphills, is a pain and makes me think of getting a Gravity Dropper (again).

    br,
    Markus

  73. #73
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    Hello Markus,

    Great picture from the Outdoor Demo.

    An inline seat clamp may be available after the summer. The present RASE seat clamp is only set back by about half an inch, so if you just get a saddle that has its rails back more, this should easily make up for the difference, I would think.

    I have also heard people say that putting grease in the main spring, while it is fully expanded, will quiet the main spring.

    It looks like I may be working back with RASE soon. I can't say to much more on the zero offset for now.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

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    Thanks Austin,

    youre right the offset isnt that much but on uphills its enough to make it very uncomfortable and exhausting.With a straight seatpost I have absolutely no problems on the same bike. Ive alredy put the saddle as much forward as possible.

    Hopefully Rase will make the straight head.

  75. #75
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    Hello Markus,

    It's good to hear about issues that make a real difference. The inline clamp will be a priority.

    Thanks,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

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    I think it would be a mistake to drop the layback altogether. It has been said many times on this thread that there is little other choice for those of us who need layback. In fact I can't think of another post in 27.2 that offers layback, unless you count GD i beam. certainly this was the driving force behind my purchase.

    I would suggest offering a range of clamp options, ;layback,, inline and maybe i beam too.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by _markus View Post
    Thanks Austin,

    youre right the offset isnt that much but on uphills its enough to make it very uncomfortable and exhausting.With a straight seatpost I have absolutely no problems on the same bike. Ive alredy put the saddle as much forward as possible.

    Hopefully Rase will make the straight head.
    Interesting to read this and yes that 1/2" does make a difference. I also have the Rase post on my Prophet and had been having issues with the front on technical uphills. I didn't want to mess with my bar/stem so I crammed the seat forward the last 1'2" it would go. Much better now and I think more comfy as well. Would perhaps be intetesting to try a straight clamp if it was interchangable with the layback. Knee angle would need to be watched though.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

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    The present RASE seat clamp is retro-KORE inspired design that we really like for its clean lines and its capacity to support the seat rails really well, being that it has 1/2 inch of setback.

    We're presently working on fine tuning the counter rotational system for maximum performance. We want to further develop the counter rotational system that is both durable and not cause any stiction, as having the seat post get to the right position and solidly lock in place is our first priority.

    Even with dirt thrown onto the entire system, it will easilly adjust along its full range of adjustability and solidly lock into any one of its twenty locking holes, to remain the most reliable of all adjusting seatposts. In general, we know that people are not always going to use a boot/cover, so the post is presently designed and will continue to be solidly locking, completely operational and reliable no matter how much dirt is tossed at it, even without the boot/cover.

    Back to the seat clamps, we are thinking about reducing the setback by half to 1/4 inch, to somewhat accommidate both the inline and setback riders to start. I think this will generally be a good start. Further future plans should also cover a variety of clamps.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  79. #79
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    This didn't come out in your post but I would suggest offering a second clamp that reduces the setback by 1/2 to 1/4 inch, so that those that need the setback aren't left in the cold.

    Also, can you tell me if the seatpost can be used on a bike stand clamp?

    My top tube is not straight and I use one of those bike frame adapters to transport my bike on my vehicle bike rack. The adapter clamps below the seat rails on one end and below the stem on the other so that it can be suspended on the bike rack arms. Can the RASE also be used to transport bikes in this fashion? It is essentially holding the weight of the bike (in conjunction with the stem) on the rack.

  80. #80
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    Hello Dr. Zoidberg,

    I agree that having a 1/4 inch of setback will be the best way for us to initially accommodate people looking for an inline or a setback seat clamp. We will also have a full variety of great clamps in the future.

    The RASE main post is made from a solid bar of 7075 AL and the locking system is extra solid and reliable. It could be fine to use the RASE post in a bike stand clamp,yet, as rugged as the post may be, you also would definitely not want to somehow damage the front of the post in a bike stand clamp.

    The bike rack system that attaches to the seatpost, sounds a bit too risky for any adjusting seatpost flying down a highway. Also, the random forces of the rack to the bike could potentially cause some minor but effecting damage.

    Thanks,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  81. #81
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    Im stoked to hear a version with less, or zero, offset is in the works. I've wanted a RASE for so long, but my bikes' slack seat tube angles (banshee rune, sc bullit 2.0) absolutely necessitates a straight post, so I've held off on getting one. i even emailed the company back in February, to see if the zero-offset clamp i've heard whispers of was in the works, she said possibly but might be quite a while, the engineer who had started that idea was no longer working there; so i just figured it wouldnt ever happen. She didnt seem to have any idea what the difference was (in one email she confused saddle offset with saddle angle,) or why it was necessary for some. She also thought that not having that option was not costing them any sales (even though it cost them my sale!) I even emailed her a link to this thread, where many state that they havent bought one because of this.
    Anyway, good to hear they're finally coming along; i can stop wearing out my seat tube and thomson elites! (Im always raising/dropping my seat). Even if they're 1/4" offset, I think that'll work for me. But Im really hoping for straight. and they should definitely also keep the offset option for those who need it.
    Last edited by dwyooaj; 06-26-2011 at 10:40 PM.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Im stoked to hear a version with less, or zero, offset is in the works. I've wanted a RASE for so long, but my bikes' slack seat tube angles (banshee rune, sc bullit 2.0) absolutely necessitates a straight post, so I've held off on getting one. i even emailed the company back in February, to see if the zero-offset clamp i've heard whispers of was in the works, she said possibly but might be quite a while, the engineer who had started that idea was no longer working there; so i just figured it wouldnt ever happen. She didnt seem to have any idea what the difference was (in one email she confused saddle offset with saddle angle,) or why it was necessary for some. She also thought that not having that option was not costing them any sales (even though it cost them my sale!) I even emailed her a link to this thread, where many state that they havent bought one because of this.
    Anyway, good to hear they're finally coming along; i can stop wearing out my seat tube and thomson elites! (Im always raising/dropping my seat). Even if they're 1/4" offset, I think that'll work for me. But Im really hoping for straight. and they should definitely also keep the offset option for those who need it.
    Absolutely right!
    In my opinion an i-beam option would be great too.

  83. #83
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    Looks like I'm going to be bringing my designs for an even stronger, lighter, super dirtproof and extra reliable Fully Adjusting Seatpost to a new company instead.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE seatpost

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER View Post
    Looks like I'm going to be bringing my designs for an even stronger, lighter, super dirtproof and extra reliable Fully Adjusting Seatpost to a new company instead.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE seatpost
    Well keep us posted about its availability. And make it so that it CAN be used with a bike repair stand and bike racks that require a frame adapter.

  85. #85
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    I love what Austin Walsh has accomplished, so far!

    I look forward to the future iterations, options, replacements and complimenting models...

    And a modified version, or another model (with many interchangeable parts), that allows some 'cush' or suspension to take out the harshness of some bikes initial (stiction or designed) reluctance to travel...

    I have a Long-Travel Cane Creek Thud Buster on my 7" Yeti as-X and 8" Lenz Sport Pro Descender, as well as my rigid 29er and a few other bikes...
    I also have some KS-i800 adjustable height seatposts with built in suspension on a few bikes...

    I would LOVE a remote actuated height adjustable Thud Buster or Moxey, or better yet,
    a RASE 9" Remote-Actuated Height-Adjustable Seatpost with 4" of built-in Shock Absorption!!!

    I would be happy to help you design and prototype and test and promote and distribute this Shocking RASE Seatpost...

    When do we start?

  86. #86
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    The new Fully Adjusting Seatpost WILL actually be able to be used in a bike stand, as the main post will be configured as solid as a standard seatpost. I'll save more details until the new seatpost is released.

    Thanks 1StuntMonkey for the enthusiasm. It is very likely that a suspension plus height adjusting version will be out soon. The main priority is that the post will be as strong as any standard seatpost yet it will also be very lightweight. The new Fully Adjusting Seatpost will also have a very reliable locking system.

    Send me a direct message here and let me know how we could work together.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  87. #87
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    Good to here about your ideas for a new seatpost Austin!

    It would be great if youd offer a inline replacement head for the Rase seatpost

    I moved back to a regular seatpost because the Mambas offset in combination with my bike is no fun.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER View Post
    Looks like I'm going to be bringing my designs for an even stronger, lighter, super dirtproof and extra reliable Fully Adjusting Seatpost to a new company instead.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE seatpost
    Does this mean you are not working with RASE any longer? Are they still running without you? And most importantly, when is the new super post going to be out? Thanks.

  89. #89
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    Hello Pukulan,

    I started RASE with a group called ProDev a few years ago. I left RASE a couple years ago to develop designs for a new stronger and lighter Fully Adjusting Seatpost. I put together five new patents for these new designs. There is already one component company developing one of these designs. I was going to get back with RASE, but I decided to start a new company instead, where I can stay in control of insuring the highest levels of quality and performance. This new company is a great mix of MTB personalities from across the U.S. and some other companies.

    The new Fully Adjusting Seatpost 10 should be out as soon as we can fine tune the prototypes and do some testing, or maybe even sooner through the other company.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  90. #90
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    (Sorry to post here, but forum won't let me PM or email yet)

    Hi Austin,

    Been following the RASE thread, was excited to hear of your even newer, better design.

    I was wondering if you could mention anything re when this might be available.

    I was ready to buy the Reverb, but was not 100% happy with only 5": it would have meant that I would still need to lower the whole assembly in order to slam my seat as much as possible (I do trials).

    So I looked online to checkout the other longer-travel options and found the RASE. Besides the awesome range, I liked the fact that it seems that the in-frame part was not that long, which meant that I would indeed be able to slam my seat to the bottom: other designs might still require me to drill out my upper water bottle mounting bung to allow the outer post to drop down enough; still though, some designs might even have internal post clearance issues I'm not sure, even about the RASE

    I have a good price lined up for the Reverb, but if your post will be out soon, and especially if it's maybe less expensive than the RASE(???), I'd happily wait a short while!

    Any insight would be much appreciated!

    Also, I ride a medium Rockhopper hardtail any foreseeable issues with being able to slam the seat all the way with your new design? (will I need to maybe machine out the upper bung, etc?)

    Thanks!
    Brian in SoCal
    I make things with wheels go REALLY fast.

  91. #91
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    New seatpost info?

    ***OK, why is this also showing up way at the top, and where is the delete option???***



    (Sorry to post here, but forum won't let me PM or email yet)

    Hi Austin,

    Been following the RASE thread, was excited to hear of your even newer, better design.

    I was wondering if you could mention anything re when this might be available.

    I was ready to buy the Reverb, but was not 100% happy with only 5": it would have meant that I would still need to lower the whole assembly in order to slam my seat as much as possible (I do trials).

    So I looked online to checkout the other longer-travel options and found the RASE. Besides the awesome range, I liked the fact that it seems that the in-frame part was not that long, which meant that I would indeed be able to slam my seat to the bottom: other designs might still require me to drill out my upper water bottle mounting bung to allow the outer post to drop down enough; still though, some designs might even have internal post clearance issues I'm not sure, even about the RASE

    I have a good price lined up for the Reverb, but if your post will be out soon, and especially if it's maybe less expensive than the RASE(???), I'd happily wait a short while!

    Any insight would be much appreciated!

    Also, I ride a medium Rockhopper hardtail any foreseeable issues with being able to slam the seat all the way with your new design? (will I need to maybe machine out the upper bung, etc?)

    Thanks!
    Brian in SoCal
    I make things with wheels go REALLY fast.

  92. #92
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    Hello Brian,

    The RASE post and the new Full Adjust System model use the same inserted depth into the frame as a 400 mm seatpost. So use a standard 400 mm seatpost to check if a frame has any interruptions or water bottle rivets in the way first. I've found the water bottle rivets pop out with a little force from a lowering seatpost, although I'd check with any manufacturers on that first.

    The new Full Adjust System will slam all the way down for a full range of height options, to make you go even faster with even greater control. It should be out in between three and six months and cost around $300.


    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  93. #93
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    Just bought a RASE seatpost

    Austin

    I have been following this thread for insight into this product. I've emailed with Prodev (Laurie Kench) for 2 weeks, and she has responded to my questions that I had. So yesterday I took it on my first ride. This place in NJ I rode was very technical, and I had to stop and get off my bike often. Now comes the one big problem. When I jumped off the seat and stood over the frame, my body came down on the cable right where it comes out of the seat post. This caused a kinking of the entry point, so that when I jumped back on the seat, the seat immediately, fell down, even when I didn't touch the lever. I have a Turner five spot, and the only way to run this cable is on the top of the top tube. This is not good because the cable exits the seat post parallel to the ground and sits too high from the bike top tube. If I try to flex the cable downward and tie it down, it may not work as well when I actuate the lever. What I need are two rigid elbows pieces to bring the cable down and forward, so it runs closer the the frame when exiting the seat post. Can something like this be done to the cable? To be honest I think the exit point of the seat post needs to have a longer sleeve, so the cable crimp can seat deeper inside, and not flex at the point they meet. I can wobble the cable so easy, and it just takes a slight push or pull on the cable to cause the seat to drop.

    As far as all the other comments people have made, I don't care about any rattle, I just want the seat to go up or down when I want it to, and not on it's own.

    Thanks
    Eric


    Quote Originally Posted by RASER View Post
    Hello Brian,

    The RASE post and the new Full Adjust System model use the same inserted depth into the frame as a 400 mm seatpost. So use a standard 400 mm seatpost to check if a frame has any interruptions or water bottle rivets in the way first. I've found the water bottle rivets pop out with a little force from a lowering seatpost, although I'd check with any manufacturers on that first.

    The new Full Adjust System will slam all the way down for a full range of height options, to make you go even faster with even greater control. It should be out in between three and six months and cost around $300.


    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RASE post-cable-complete.jpg  

    RASE post-straight-cable.jpg  

    RASE post-bent-cable.jpg  


  94. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by l84thsky View Post
    Austin

    I have been following this thread for insight into this product. I've emailed with Prodev (Laurie Kench) for 2 weeks, and she has responded to my questions that I had. So yesterday I took it on my first ride. This place in NJ I rode was very technical, and I had to stop and get off my bike often. Now comes the one big problem. When I jumped off the seat and stood over the frame, my body came down on the cable right where it comes out of the seat post. This caused a kinking of the entry point, so that when I jumped back on the seat, the seat immediately, fell down, even when I didn't touch the lever. I have a Turner five spot, and the only way to run this cable is on the top of the top tube. This is not good because the cable exits the seat post parallel to the ground and sits too high from the bike top tube. If I try to flex the cable downward and tie it down, it may not work as well when I actuate the lever. What I need are two rigid elbows pieces to bring the cable down and forward, so it runs closer the the frame when exiting the seat post. Can something like this be done to the cable? To be honest I think the exit point of the seat post needs to have a longer sleeve, so the cable crimp can seat deeper inside, and not flex at the point they meet. I can wobble the cable so easy, and it just takes a slight push or pull on the cable to cause the seat to drop.

    As far as all the other comments people have made, I don't care about any rattle, I just want the seat to go up or down when I want it to, and not on it's own.

    Thanks
    Eric
    All good points that I agree with on the current Rase post. I have the same issues with the cable on my Cannondale Prophet and although not a deal breaker it is a pain to have to keep an eye on it and constantly have to adjust the bend so it has nice transition into the post.

    The solution to this IMO would be to have the entry poiint of the cable on the back of the post where you would never hit it and a nice loop up from the bottom could be made or the use of some kind of rigid noodle type thingy for the bend into the post. I kind of wonder if seat clamp could be removed from the post and flipped 180 degrees to do this. Maybe Austin would know or a call to Rase. Obviously that would require a new longer cable as well. That would fix my main gripe with the current post. Also the exit point does need to be longer or a better design to hold the calbe better.

    Other than that it's good. Yeah it's got some rattle/play but I NEVER notice it while riding and other than the cable issue it always works. More than I can say for many of the newer posts out there that seem to fail on a regualr basis. I also use the protector sleeve and keep the shaft and adjustment holes lightly lubed with Tri Flow. Function trumps looks (although the sleeve really isn't that bad) and I never have problems no matter what the conditions. 1/2" adjustments are probably overkill but If I really wanted to remedy that issue all it would take is blocking off the adjustment holes with set screws.
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  95. #95
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    Hello 184thsky and Skidad,

    I agree that the post should not easily unlock as this is why a very strong little spring is designed in to be placed behind the lock pin. Your system should be a bit difficult to unlock as I think positive locking is very important.

    The cable housing ferule should(was designed to) fit snug into the lock opening. If the cable is set too tight it will make unlocking quicker, and if the cable is set too loose then the ferule may come out of the lock opening to much and actually get the ferule wedged out from the lock opening, where it might pull on the cable.

    It should be generally easy to see if the cable tension is set right, you simply need to be sure that the cable is tightened to the lever, (1) when the pin is fully locked into one of the locking holes (2) and then there is no observed tension or extra looseness from the cable at the shifter (when the cable housing end with ferule is fully positioned within the lock opening).

    Jagwire does make a variety of semi-flexable housings and noodles for then providing routing solutions also. The Jagwire cable guides are good, yet using a narrow roll of electrical tape will hold the cable down and in exactly the right place the best, provided your paint can handle that level of adhesive.

    The cable should/may have the end welded so that changing the housing or ferule may not require switching out a new cable in the process. You may need a longer cable anyways.

    Be sure not to turn the post/clamp around as this would put the open channel at the back to make for a much weaker post. With mud coating the back of a seatpost it also just seems good to keep openings and connections at the front.

    You should have the pin locking solidly. Let me know how it goes.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER View Post
    ...The new Full Adjust System will slam all the way down for a full range of height options, to make you go even faster with even greater control. It should be out in between three and six months and cost around $300.


    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

    Hi Austin,

    Belated thanks sorry!

    On the other hand, I was needing to get something to hold me over, but as it's been a couple months already, I was wondering how everything's been going with the new post/company any refinement on the timeframe? (I could definitely hold a few more weeks ;-)

    Anyway, just thought I'd check in as new info's always fun!

    Thanks,
    Brian
    I make things with wheels go REALLY fast.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockHopper II View Post
    I was wondering how everything's been going with the new post/company any refinement on the timeframe? (I could definitely hold a few more weeks
    +1

    In the market for a adjustable seatpost and want to get Austin's new design.

    Do you have a website up? ETA for product launch?

  98. #98
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    Hello,

    I'd like to have the new post out very soon, yet prototyping and organizing always seems to have more details and take longer then expected. It's all moving forward well, but it may even take a few extra months.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by RASER View Post
    I'd like to have the new post out very soon, yet prototyping and organizing always seems to have more details and take longer then expected. It's all moving forward well, but it may even take a few extra months.
    Austin,

    Thanks for the update. Is there a website/facebook/distro list I can get on so I can know when the post is out?

  100. #100
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    The new Full Adjust Seatpost will be presented here on MTBR before anywhere else. If all goes as planned, we'll have test riders report in, give a broad outline of the product and give the new product name and website.

    Cheers,

    Austin Walsh
    Developer of the RASE Seatpost

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