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  1. #1
    kneecap
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    New question here. upper link bearings

    Want to access the upper link, & seatstay bearings on my carbine to do a regrease.
    However, I don't know how the link bearing caps are removed, & don't want to scratch or gouge them up.
    Anyone dig into that maintenance?
    Thanks muchley..

  2. #2
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    Remove the back wheel and lower shock mount bolt so the back end moves more freely. Then remove the shoulder bolts with an Allen key. They are aluminum and may have been threadlocked so they may initially be firm to break the thread lock but should then just back out. You should then be able to access the bearings more easily.

    Use the tip of a craft knife or similar to gently pry the seals out, then you can clean them out and regrease them. If they are really rough you may want to order bearings and a bearing removal/press tool. Real World Cycling (RWS) sells tools for this and Enduro bearings. You might also consider their needle bearing conversion kit to replace the lower DU bushing on the shock.

    REAL WORLD CYCLING AFTERMARKET COMPONENTS, BEARINGS, & SEALS

  3. #3
    kneecap
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    Thanks Ralph, exactly what I was looking for!

  4. #4
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    Are the upper bolts on the upper link on the Carbine the same as the lower bolts of the upper link? I took the lower bolts out but the upper bolts are REALLY tight. I know how it feels to break lock tight free but these upper bolts are so tight that I feel like Im going to break my allen #5 allen or strip out the allen head on the upper bolts. Any suggestions?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridnw/bear View Post
    Are the upper bolts on the upper link on the Carbine the same as the lower bolts of the upper link? I took the lower bolts out but the upper bolts are REALLY tight. I know how it feels to break lock tight free but these upper bolts are so tight that I feel like Im going to break my allen #5 allen or strip out the allen head on the upper bolts. Any suggestions?
    Same shoulder bolts top and bottom AFAIK. I had a similar issue with my top bolts and suspect they had been installed with RED locktite, which is tougher. Breaking the threadlock bond took a long t-handle Allen wrench. Others may have other suggestions but I think you need to break that bond.

    Replacements are available if you do strip them but they are around $20 each so be careful.

  6. #6
    kneecap
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    Yeah, I started to remove one of those caps on the seat tube, & the allen wrench started rounding out the cap interface.
    Maybe I'll try a little heat from a hair dryer, or a heat gun next?

  7. #7
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    If you are referring to the upper bolts on the upper link, then you need 2 #5 allen wrenches, one for each side of the link. You have to loosen both together. The right side bolt screws into the left side shaft/ bolt. Hope that helps. Make sure you put the allen as far into the hole as possible to get a good interface.

  8. #8
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    Do the upper shoulder bolts look like this:

    Intense Cycles Shoulder Bolt for M9 - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa

    And does the linkage looks like this:

    Intense Cycles Tracer 2 Top Link - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa

    If so, then I believe both upper shoulder bolts screw into the upper linkage and do not connect between the two sides. Perhaps this is different with the Carbine? I have a Tracer2 and I know the lower box link differs between the carbon and aluminum models but the upper uses the same pieces AFAIK. I don't recall my buddy's Carbine having a different top link config but I'll look more closely when I see his bike next.

  9. #9
    kneecap
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    That's what they look like. However, the link axle spins without backing up the other shoulder cap. So, how to get the other one off...

  10. #10
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    Hmm - can you post a picture up of what you are referring to as the "link axle"? Is it a threaded sleeve inside the frame?

  11. #11
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    Intense Cycles Tracer 2 Top Link - Fanatik Bike Co. - Bellingham Wa

    the carbine upper link looks to be the same as the Tracer 2 upper link. As you can see in the pic from Fanatik Bike that the lower bolts tread into the link itself but the upper bolt holes do not have threads. The right side upper bolt threads into the left side shaft/ bolt that goes all the way through the frame. Sorry, I dont have the bike with me to take some pics.

  12. #12
    kneecap
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    Ahhh, that's why the bolt on the left side spins when undoing the rt. side one.Thanks, now I can approach accessing those bearings again.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRALPH View Post
    ..... . You might also consider their needle bearing conversion kit to replace the lower DU bushing on the shock.
    .....
    Anyone know if the lower DU bushing wears extremely fast on the Carbine? I have four rides on my Xfusion and already have play at the lower DU.
    .

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottay View Post
    Anyone know if the lower DU bushing wears extremely fast on the Carbine? I have four rides on my Xfusion and already have play at the lower DU.
    .
    That hasn't been my experience. At least with Fox and BOS shocks on my Carbine. Perhaps its the DUs that XFusion uses?

  15. #15
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    Yeah, I'm gonna call them. Thanks.
    BTW, how did you lower the HA on your Carbine? Does running in the lower mount position (140 mode) lower the BB and HA also?

    Thanks!

  16. #16
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    Changing the shock position does not change the geometry (BB/HA). Your options are either angleset type headset or you could do offset bushings. I have a -1 degree angleset installed to get 66 degrees.

  17. #17
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    Got it, thanks.

    Altho I think using the upper hole does in fact lower the BB and slacken the HA/SA . Try it yourself, you'll see it change. ( I know Intense says otherwise...)
    .
    Not clear on whether the Burgtec bushings work on the 275 in long travel mode or only in the short travel mode....

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