1. ## Tracer VP 1x10?

I have a 2010 tracer VP that's still going strong. I'm thinking of going 1x10 for a couple of reasons.

First, I never use the big ring. I really don't ride fire roads, etc. It's dead weight.

Second (the real reason): It pedals WAY better in the middle ring (i.e. 32 of 24/32/42 XT 11/36 10sp set up). However, I live in Colorado and have to climb 1000 vertical on every ride right out of the gate, so I need the ratio I get form the 24t ring with the granny gears. My thinking is that if I got a granny cog in the 40-42t range, I could get by with only a ring in the 28-32 range.

Does anyone else experience this pedaling difference?

Third, my bike needs to go on a diet! I keep adding "robustness" to it: new burlier fork, dropper post, fatter tires.... loosing the FD, rings, cable and shifter would shed a lot of weight.

Forth: Chain rubs on the FD in 32/36 or 24/13

So, the set up I am considering is 30t single narrow/wide ring up front with a 11/36 XT 10sp cassette + 42 wolftooth (or similar) cog. Of course I'll have to remove one cog from the cassette.

Thoughts?

2. Same boat and same thoughts, been playing with a gear calculator to figure out how each ratio would feel

3. 22/36 = 0.67

32/11 = 2.9

30/42= 0.71

30/11= 2.72

so, in my proposed set-up, I'd give up a little on each end. I could go to a 28t up front to get to 28/42=0.67, but then I'd spin out a lot DH....

Not dropping major coin to go to XX1 1x11

4. When you remove gears - you're going to lose something. There's really no way around it. Less parts means less options. Figure out the most important gearing for your riding - and make sure that combination is in there. I went from 2x10 to 1x11 - I lost about 5% of my granny gear (don't miss it, I used it as a crutch anyway...) and lost a lot on the top end (only comes into play on roll outs). What I gained was ground clearance...

5. my new setup

6. ## Tracer VP 1x10?

What chain ring and gears are you running and what do you think so far?

PS - Nice bottles of whiskey on the mantle.

7. i live in the rockies and need a setup to climb steep stuff. so for now started with a 26 in front and 11-42 (wolftooth) in the back. so far so good but i have not taken it on trail yet.

8. ## Tracer VP 1x10?

I also live in the Rockies - front range of CO. I'm thinking o going 30x11/40. I currently have a shimano XT drivetrain and the thinking is the shimano rear derailleurs don't always play nice with 42t cogs.

9. u r in better shape than i am i switch from a 3x9 to this 1x10 setup and got a new sram x9 medium cage derailleur. everything is working great.

10. ## Tracer VP 1x10?

Completed conversion!

Raceface Narrow-Wide 30t 104bcd chain ring up front on a shimano XT 10sp 3x crank.

Standard Shimano XT 10sp 11-36 + 40t Hope T-Rex (minus the 15&17, + 16).

Set up issues:
- rear derailleur is a shadow XT Dynasys 10sp and it has very little clearance in the 40,36, and 32 cogs. I may put a spacer between te hanger and derailleur and re adjust the limit screws.
- it seems that a CLEAN drivetrain will minimize shifting issues and ameliorate the large cog interference issues.
-possible slight chain line issue in the smaller cogs.... Tbd.
- shifts fine in the stand and around the yard. Trail test tomorrow.

Took about a pound off bike.

11. finally took mine out for a spin today and everything works great. love the stiff raceface crank.

12. First 1x10 test yesterday...

Though it was a pretty short and easy ride with my 10yo, I can say that 1x is good.

Climbing was good - I think between the improved pedaling (vs the 24t ring and an equivalent cog) and the rear shock mid-stroke compression improvements, standing and pounding uphill through rocks was much better. I like how the 30t is a good middle ground between the 24 and 32 of a standard triple. It's quiet (no rubbing on the FD!) and shifts well - up/down the 40t Hope cog is really quite good. I did spin out on a long DH dirt road, but didn't need to use a cadence that was too bad to put power down - how fast do you really need to go on a dirt road between ST and the car? I did not drop the chain at all - the NW ring profile is pretty solid and I get enough tension out of the XT (non-clutch) RD.

I may have to adjust the chain line a little bit with some combination of BB spacers and/or chainring spacers to effectively move the ring inboard by 1mm-ish.. The combo of the 30t + 40t cog is a probably at the limit. Similarly, I'd like to move the RD outboard by 1mm and adjust the limit screws to get the shifting correct. The shape of the Shimano 10sp Dynasys RD puts it really close to the cogs and the 40t cog takes up a fair amount of the clearance so that the chain comes very close to hitting the derailleur on down shift off the 40. a small shim between the rear derailleur and the hanger would solve that as long as enough threads are engaged.

I don't anticipate having too much difficulty spinning out a 30x11 on anything I normally ride - If I find myself going that fast on twisty southwest ST, then I probably need to slow down. I may end up with a 32t ring if the 30t proves too small. If I rode flatter trails, I'd likely go with a different set up.

I'm riding again today, but going harder and more technical.

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